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[ [ "Early Space Race Era\nI agree it can be doable (with a lot of luck) at steam power era but will need a massive effort akin to put the man on moon, maybe even requiring a international task force. Below I will list some challenges were are not pointed in previous answers.\nWhy not in the age of sail?\nBecause we never got an age of sail for start. At sec XV we unified some kingdoms and they started a tech race akin to the space race to finally develop oceanic navigation. At sec XVI we founded colonies in the new world and it pushed the navigation development and with the growth of the colonies culminated in the \"Age of Sail\". Without those elements OP super earth most likely skiped it entirely.\nA Fearsome Sea\nThe size of this Ocean will bring a lot of weather and climate challenges. You can expect winds, tides and currents to be way bigger. Also expects typhoons to be cataclysmic. The tides per se will be a good challenge for the building of ports. The tsunami size weaves can make even fishing impossible in large coastal areas. The sea conditions will be nasty, even in good weather and impossible in bad weather. Navigation will be a really dangerous business. Also the sea conditions will make coastal erosion a thing. I ever wonder if most of coastal will be of massive cliffs.", "308" ], [ "All those factos summed make me wonder coastal cities will be almost entrenched in big natural harbours and important sea trade routes will be exclusively between cities in bays (the only place where is possible to build a big port anyway) and where the route travels along a, most time, very peacefull chunk of the ocean.\nLots of Trains & Planes but no Fleet\nThe size of the continet this points out railroads will be in demand early ans planes too but navigation will be very limited in all aspects, speacially in tech. This leads to a strange scenario where we will hit industrial age and even space age skipping sail age.\nThe Dark Side\nThe Moon is a great target for mankind aspiration, from dawn of time we can see it but we cannot reach it. We dreamed to land here a million times. But what if for millenia we do know Super-Terra has a dark side out of reach? Once scientist proves we can launch a object in orbit and retrieve it the first thing to be flung out will be a camera to take pictures of the uncharted lands. Once the first pictures are retrieved be sure it will trigger a space/exploration/colonization race.\nAge of New World\nThe reason the new continent will spring a sort of space race is to gather data from the land, not only a coastal line but weather a major biomes, moutains ranges, rivers. Everything necessary for future settlers. Also a new tech race on navigation will sprung. Visionaries will dream of under-water-boats, starting the project of the (probably first) submarine. Long-range-any-weather-transocenic ships will gain the status today we grant to a mission to Mars. It will bring a new age.\nWhat if there already people here? They are probably in another phase in tech development, even using a different \"tech tree\" but fact we reached them first. Also yes its unlikey but possible small grups can end strained here but OP can wave a complex geologial/ice age to explain it. Maybe thermals isles of heat making a sort of ring of fire connecting boths continents in immemorial times. What in that case the answer instead can be Ice Age", "99" ] ]

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[ [ "In a complete general framework, probably as you know, you can define an hamiltonian system as a dynamical system whose vector field reads: $$[X_{H}(x)]{i}= {x{i},H} $$ where $$x=(q_{1},...,q_{n},p_{1},...,p_{n})=(q,p)$$ is a vector of the phase space $\\Gamma$ (that is practically always an Hilbert space), ${ ; }$ is a Poisson Bracket that satisfies the usual properties and $H=H(x)$ is the Hamiltonian of the system, defined on the phase space. A really important object that one can define, is the so-called Poisson tensor, defined as: $$J_{jk} = {x_{j},x_{k}}$$ Note that from this definition is obvious that $J$ has got the same skew-symmetry property of the <PERSON> brackets: this is fundamental in order to redefine a formulation of any Hamiltonian system in terms of $J$. At this point, without enter a lot in details, one can develope what is written above redefining the <PERSON> brackets in terms of the Poisson tensor and in this way one can write a complete general form of the <PERSON> equation of ANY Hamiltonian system: $$\\dot{x} =J(x)\\nabla_{x}H(x)$$ where $J$ is the Poisson tensor and the notation $\\nabla_{x}$ means that the gradient acts on a vector of the phase space $x$. You can make ANY change of variable $x \\rightarrow y=f(x)$ that you want, but you will NEVER lose the hamiltonian properties of your system (i.e. the properties of the Poisson brakets).", "976" ], [ "This is really important and means that if a system is Hamiltonian, according to the definitions above, it will remains Hamiltonian INDIPENDENTLY of the coordinate chosen to describe it.\nThe concept of the Poisson tensor is also important in order to characterize the set of Casimir invariants (i.e the symmetry group) of a given Hamiltonian system: A Casimir invariant $C(x)$ is a function defined on the phase space, such that: $$J(x)\\nabla C(x)=0$$ in other words, is a function which has got the gradient that is in the Kernel of the Poisson tensor. These functions describe the invariace of your system. The main point (that i hope can answers to your question) is easy to understand just from the definition of a <PERSON> invariant and is that ANY Hamiltonian system that is described by the same Poisson tensor, has got the same <PERSON> invariants (i.e the same symmetry)! Is not correct the way in which your are posing your question, beacause every Hamiltonian system has got a well defined algebra of functions $A(\\Gamma)$ whose bilinear product is a <PERSON> bracket that satisfies the usual properties that you know: if is not possible to define a <PERSON> bracket you can't have any Hamiltonian system. It's not meaningful what you are asking for beacause the definition of the classical Hamiltonian algebra is really general and , i repeat, well-defined in any case. In other words, the Hamiltonian algebra defined on the phase space doesn't count if you are talking about invariance and symmetries of an Hamiltonian system but, as i wrote to you above, the main instrument in order to characterize this fact is the Poisson tensor of the system: the same Poisson tensor -> the same Casimir(symmetries)", "976" ] ]

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[ [ "During his confrontation with <PERSON> on Mustafar, <PERSON> was first maimed by lightsabre cuts. He lost both legs around the knees, and much of his left arm. He fell onto a slope of volcanic sand, and slid helplessly to the edge of a lava river. His body ignited due to heat radiated off that flow. His lungs were scorched by the hot gases he inhaled. [Revenge of the Sith novel; graphic novel; childrens' novel.]\nThis explains most (but not all) of Lord <PERSON>'s injuries. <PERSON> may have experienced mishaps between the films. He may have lost more flesh from his limbs before his final fight at Endor.", "605" ], [ "His spinal damage may have resulted from an accidental fall into a pit on Mimban [in Splinter of the Mind's Eye, though the book doesn't show how badly he was hurt]. Lord <PERSON> could have suffered extra injuries during his hunts for surviving Jedi and the Clone Wars campaigns that continued after the Empire was proclaimed.\nNonetheless, if the passages from Return of the Jedi are taken literally, the worst of <PERSON>'s injuries result from serious burns inflicted when he fell in a volcanic environment\nhttp://www.theforce.net/swtc/injuries.html#origin\nNote that the bulk of the content was written in the mid 1990s; well before the prequels came out.\n<PERSON>'s back, specifically his spine, was not whole.[9] <PERSON> at some time had suffered serious spinal injury in the upper neck. However, his injuries on <PERSON> did not affect the spine.[1] This forced <PERSON> to wear a thick electrode-studded collar that supported his helmet to safeguard the cybernetic devices that replaced his upper vertebrae.\nhttp://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Darth_Vader's_armor#Spine\nHowever, this newer source seems to corroborate a single serious injury to <PERSON>'s spine after the battle at Mustafar.\nIn the Splinter of the Mind's Eye novel, there was a battle between <PERSON> and <PERSON> at Mimban, but the summaries seem to conflict somewhat. However, after skimming my copy of the novel, the summary from the novel is correct.\nThey continue to battle and <PERSON>, his actions guided by the spirit of <PERSON> and his power augmented by the Kaiburr crystal, strikes <PERSON>'s sword arm, severing it. Undaunted, <PERSON> picks up his lightsaber with his remaining arm, and again pursues the exhausted <PERSON>. <PERSON>, also exhausted, is about to win, staggering as he approaches to make the killing blow, and he falls into a pit; <PERSON> senses that this does not kill <PERSON>.\nhttp://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Splinter_of_the_Mind's_Eye\nEvery movement of <PERSON> was guided by the spirit of <PERSON> and empowered by the crystal, so the young boy amazingly managed to hold <PERSON> off, even managing to sever the Dark Lord's mechanical arm. Shocked, <PERSON> tumbled down a deep pit, ending their duel. This was the first battle between <PERSON> and <PERSON>.\nhttp://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Mimban", "605" ] ]

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[ [ "For those who have never had the pleasure of personally doing this, see this video. It has been known since 1807 that dissolving sodium in liquid ammonia results in a beautiful color. It was originally thought the color was due to some familiar complex instead of a solvated electron. A similar phenomenon happens with other alkali metals in ammonia.\nResearch in the field says that it takes, at least, forty some ammonia molecules to solvate a given electron. Metstable cavities form and their stability could depend highly on electrostatic interactions to solvate our electron. Ammonia will slowly react by evolving hydrogen gas,\n$$ 2NH_3 + 2e^- \\rightarrow H_2 + 2NH_2 ^-$$\nDifferences in solvent can play a huge role in the stability of our solvated electron. An analogous decomposition occurs in water, $$ 2H_2O + 2e^- \\rightarrow H_2 + 2 HO^- $$\nFamously the latter occurs faster than the former, see here in comparison to my earlier link.", "979" ], [ "We could say that these differences in rate reflect different stabilities of our solvated electron. Although, the addition of an appropriate catalyst to our ammonia will result in rapid evolution of hydrogen.\nA more quantitative description for the difference in energies is obtained by measuring the UV-vis spectrum for a solvated electron in both water and ammonia. One will quickly notice that the band appears at higher energies in water than it does in ammonia and there are considerable differences in the band shapes (the band is wider in ammonia).\nSo Why Do They Differ\nSo here I have to make the disclaimer that no current theories quantitatively reproduce the observed phenomena, such as the absorption spectrum for a solvated electron. This question has no established/accepted answer as it is an ongoing area of research.\nThe self-ionization of water has an equilibrium constant on the order of K = $10^{-14}$ and that of ammonia is on the order of $10^{-30}$. Hydronium formation occurs in the case of water and ammonium in the case of ammonia. Hydronium has a considerably lower pKa than ammonium and so it's reasonable to see why a reaction in water would be more likely with an electron. (Ammonia rarely produces a weakly acidic species, but water often produces a strongly acidic complex.)\nA slightly deeper reason may be that water forms more ordered local domains/structures in solution than ammonia and this influences the rate by resulting in a larger entropy of activation when the hydrolyzed electron breaks up these larger structures, recall that $k \\propto \\exp (\\Delta S ^\\ddagger /R) $.\nJust speculation though.", "979" ] ]

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[ [ "Conducting Medical Research in Africa: Opportunities and Misconceptions · Global Voices\n<PERSON> in 2016 in Zambia with his permission\nMedical research conducted in Africa is often undercovered and ignored by the media, but it is a thriving field that highlights the continent's most pressing needs.\nThe reason why there is demand for locally conducted medical research is two-fold: Firstly, global health currently does not have the range of medicines and vaccines required to tackle the health issues specific to the African continent. Diseases such as AIDS, tuberculosis, and malaria have a greater detrimental impact on the poorest countries of Africa and a lack of investment in products targeting these diseases by pharmaceutical companies is a major problem.\nSecondly, research conducted by African scientists will serve to develop research capacities in Africa and an increased role for science and technology can only be beneficial to the continent's economic development.\nDr. <PERSON> is the director of the Central Laboratory at Centre for Infectious Disease Research in Zambia (CIDRZ). He grew up in Lusaka, Zambia in the 1990's just as the AIDS epidemic began to take a major toll on the national health. He left Zambia to pursue higher education in the United States in Louisiana, then Indiana. He conducted his own research on the HIV virus as a post-doctoral fellow at the University of Pennsylvania before deciding to go back home in order to make an impact on Zambian healthcare.\nGlobal Voices discussed both the future of medical research in Zambia and the things that the media gets wrong about such research in Africa with Dr. <PERSON>. (Disclaimer: Dr. <PERSON> is speaking in a personal capacity):\nGlobal Voices (GV): What is your research topic?\n<PERSON> RW: I'm doing a lot of implementation work currently, supporting the Zambian national ART programme with Laboratory testing. I am just starting a research programme in Molecular Diagnostics development for HIV, TB, and other pathogens of interest.\nGV: What do you see/think are the trending and hot topics in science in your country and Africa in general? How is it different from that in Western countries?\n<PERSON>: There is no basic R&D.", "926" ], [ "It's all implementation of solutions developed elsewhere. This has to change, otherwise we will always be receivers rather than makers. The received solutions are not usually ideal for our environment and making them work here correctly is sometimes impossible.\nGV: Where does the funding and support come from? Is it sufficient? How easy/difficult is it to recruit suitable scientists?\nRW: US and Europe. Different projects have different levels of funding. It is difficult to recruit people to come back or to move here, as funding and growth opportunities are better in other countries .\nGV: How are the research infrastructures? What are the obstacles in your routine research activity that you didn’t encounter before?\nRW: Basic infrastructure is not up to developed country standards and it costs a lot to get uninterrupted power, water, and Internet. Supplies are expensive and take months to be imported from other countries.\nGV: What are the public’s opinions towards science and scientists in Africa?\nRW: There is interest, but an extremely limited understanding of the scientific method. I would suggest critical thinking and the scientific method be taught in school to improve the situation.\n<PERSON>: In your opinion, what is the potential in scientific research in Africa, where it should focus on and how we can help its development?\nThere is amazing potential. I have seen incredible students of all ages. There is need for dedicated science education starting at all ages. Social sciences, computer sciences, big data, outer space exploration, healthcare (non-communicable and Infectious diseases), and traditional medicine efficacy will pay off big.\nGV: Could you describe the pros and cons of the life as a scientist in Africa vs Western countries based on your experience?\n<PERSON>: Mainly it is the speed of doing things and the access to expertise that are big challenges here. The system that journals have to put articles behind paywalls is also limiting the amount of information and the speed with which research can be done.", "693" ] ]

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[ [ "Oldboy\nLook, these Asian based films I tend to find odd and they are always very over the top violent and dramatic but I did find Oldboy to be a good movie by the end of it. The third act elevated it for sure because of the plot twists. Also the hallway scene from daredevil must have drawn inspiration from the hallway scene in this movie and I wish there was more of that type of action in this movie. I would love to see <PERSON> take out whole rooms of people again and again throughout this movie.\n7.5/10", "995" ] ]

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[ [ "Algorithm for maximizing correspondence between 2 sets\nI am trying to figure out how to solve the following problem: I have 2 sets of objects, set A and set B. I have a metric that calculates how closely a given object from set A corresponds to an object from set B. I'd like to maximize the overall correspondence of the entire set.\nWhat I tried first was a sort of greedy algorithm, where I went through each object in set A and calculated that object's correspondence with each object remaining in set B. I then replaced the object in set B that had the highest correspondence with the object in set A. For the next object in set A, I did the same thing, leaving out the objects in set B that already had a correspondence.\nThe problem with this approach is that it works very well for the first part of the sets, but as I near the end, there are fewer objects in set B to match with, so objects from set A tend to have worse correspondence with those objects.\nI think that it might be better to do a full calculation of the correspondence of each item in Set A to each item in Set B, and from there choose each item from set A that has the highest correspondence of the next item in set B.\nHowever, I'm left wondering if you could have a situation where, for example, object 1 from set A has, let's say an 95% correspondence to object 6 in set B, but it's next best correspondence is only 50% with object 14 in set B.", "103" ], [ "Meanwhile, object 2 from set A has a correspondence of 97% to object 6 from set B, but it has a 96% correspondence to object 28 in set B. In my mind, I think it would be better for object 1 from set A to be matched with object 6 from set B (95% correspondence) and object 2 from set A to be matched with object 28 (96% correspondence) in set B instead of matching object 2 in set A to object 6 in set B and object 1 in set A to match object 14 in set B.\nIs there a name for such an algorithm? I feel like it's related to the Knapsack Problem, but is not exactly the same. There will always be the same number of objects in set A and set B. I suppose it's possible that there will be more than 1 set of mappings that are \"most optimal\". In that case, I don't care which one is chosen.\nIn my application there will be between a few hundred to 10 or 20 thousand objects in each set. The average will probably be around 5,000 or so.", "103" ] ]

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[ [ "How I Made the Great Game of Qwirkle Even Better!\nIntroduction: How I Made the Great Game of Qwirkle Even Better!\nI'll start off by saying that Qwirkle is a brilliant game, very simple rules but requires concentration to score well and win. If you enjoy a fun game that requires some thinking, this is for you 👍\nSupplies\n1 x Qwirkle game\n1 x Router, ideally mounted in a table\nAppropriate sized router bit or bits in my case (more info to follow)\nWood glue, I used Gorilla\n5 Minute epoxy glue, again I used Gorilla\nOhhh, don't forget the 432 magnets, I bought mine from www.first4magnets.com\nStep 1: The Problem & the Brainwave.\nThe problem (as I saw it) is that the pieces when laid don't always line up correctly, they can get knocked out of alignment very easily and when you're trying to slot a piece into a gap somewhere all sorts of non-alignment carnage can ensue.\nNow I do realize that I can be more than a little picky at times but this does bother me.\nBut I had a brainwave, 'I know, I'll just add magnets'...\nI did a little working out (sketch) just to check that no matter the order of placement a North Pole would always line up with a South Pole. I'm pleased to say my thinking was correct.\nStep 2: Magnet Choice\nOne of my concerns about adding the magnets was that as you move a piece into place the other pieces would move to meet the new piece.\nWith this in mind I went for one of the smallest magnets I could find that would still have enough strength to hold the played pieces in place.\nThe Qwirkle pieces are 12 mm (0.47 inch) wide, so I went for a 4 mm (0.16 inch) round magnet as this would give plenty of space either side of the routed hole. On the website I was searching there were three different thicknesses, I went for the 1 mm (0.039 inch), there are then two different strengths, N42 or N35 I went for the slightly lower strength N35 version.\nThis is the exact magnet I went for 4 mm diameter x 1 mm thick N35 Neodymium Magnet, with 0.16 kg Pull\nAs this was a complete guess I'm very pleased to say that this strength was perfect.\nStep 3: Making the Router Jig\nFor repeatability but more importantly safety I decided to make a quick jig for routing out the holes.\nIn my router table I have a T track which I used to secure a piece of 5 mm (0.2 inch) plywood over the router, to make the hole in the plywood I raised the router up through the ply while turned on. This makes sure the bit is perfectly centred.\nNext was to mark up and attached the guides for the locator, this was done by measuring the pieces width and depth and marking that out on the ply.\nI used some pieces of thinker ply offcuts as the surrounds, these were stuck down using Gorilla wood glue.\nStep 4: This Is Where the Madness Starts...\nWith 108 individual Qwirkle pieces there are 432 sides that need routing.\nThis is where I made my first mistake, I originally tried using an 8 mm (0.31 inch) router bit but this was way too big and allowed for too much inaccuracy in the magnet placement.", "622" ], [ "Thankfully I checked this before routing out too many pieces only doing 7.\nI changed the router bit out for a 6 mm (0.24 inch) one, this was much better for magnet placement accuracy but had a different issue. The cutter has a blade on each side but these don't meet in the middle, leaving a small nubbin in the centre of the hole. This meant that after routing out 432 sides I had to change out for a 3.2 mm (0.13 inch) bit and re-route all 432 side again.\nThe trick here was to make sure that the face of the piece was always facing towards myself, this ensured the hole was always in exactly the same place. After all, the most important part about this whole thing was making the pieces line up when played.\nStep 5: Madness Part 2... Glueing\nWith all 864 routing passes done it was now time for the glue up.\nThis took more than a bit of practice but check out the video for the final process.\nFirstly I aligned all the magnets so they were all north to south, this meant I was able to take one off the bottom of the stack and know it was correctly orientated.\nNext mix up a blob of two part epoxy.\nThe procedure was then as follows...\n1.", "599" ] ]

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[ [ "Cheer\nQuick summary:\n- this made me feel so many emotions.. I cried a lot, which is something that doesn’t really happen.", "427" ], [ "And that was because I cared about everyone and everything that was happening.\n- it made me care about a sport I barely knew anything about before watching, which is definitely a great accomplishment. I feel like I got an authentic grasp of what competitive cheerleading feel like.\n- I feel personally attached to them, even though I’ve only spent a few hours with them. They all are so brave and strong.\n- the editing is terrific, as well as the build-up.\n- is season 2 happening? I need to know!!", "427" ] ]

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[ [ "Catalan Clock\nIntroduction: Catalan Clock\nIn Catalan time is read a bit differently than in most other languages. At 00:00, is twelve o'clock, but after that time is not said as \"amount of time that passed or that is missing until the next hour\", but as \"fraction of the current hour (which by english standard will be the next one)\".\nSo at 00:15, is *un quart d'una* which translate to \"a quarter of one\"\n00:30 -> \"dos quarts d'una\" -> \"two quarters of one\"\n00:45 -> \"tres quarts d'una\" -> \"three quarters of one\"\nThis implies that from 00:01 to 01:00, we are living in the hour 1, and next minute we start the hour 2, and the in-betweens are tipically refered as one quarter, two quarters and three quarters of that hour.\nSo 02:30 will be \"dos quarts de tres\" -> \"two quarters of 3\".\nTo be a bit more precise, we also use \"i5\" and \"i10\" which translates to \"and 5\" and \" and 10\", but can be used with each number between 1 and 15.\nSo\n03:20 -> \"un quart i cinc de quatre\" -> \"one quarter and five (minutes) of 4\".\n03:25 -> \"un quart i deu de quatre\" -> \"one quarter and ten of four\"\n04:42 -> \"dos quarts i dotze de cinc\" -> \"two quarters and twelve of five\"\nThe hours o'clock are called \"en punt\" that would translate literally to \"on point\", and will follow the same system, but if it is not exactly the o'clock you will drop the \"en punt\" qualifier.\n05:00 -> \"les cinc en punt\" -> \"five on point\"\n05:02 -> \"les cinc i dos\" -> \"five and two\"\nSome times you can say it substracting minutes instead of adding them, using \"menys\" as in \"minus\"\n05:10 -> \"un quart menys cinc de sis\" -> \"a quarter minus five of six\"\n06:56 -> \"les 7 menys quatre\" -> \"seven minus four\"\nThe \"i X\" and \"menys X\" qualifiers can also be applied after the amount of quarters of the hour, so\n07:17 can be both\n-> un quart i dos de vuit (one quarter and two of eight)\n-> un quart de vuit i dos (one quarter of eight and two)\n08:42 can be both\n-> tres quarts menys tres de nou (three quarters minus 3 of nine)\n-> tres quarts de nou menys 3 (three quarters of nine minus three)\nSupplies\nPrintable paper, clock mechanism, some meterial to make the needles.\nStep 1: Print the Base of the Clock\nTake the image, and print it on a rigid surface (or on a regular paper if you have already a clock with a surface where you want to place it).\nCut the paper in a shape that fits the clock you want.\nStep 2: Cut the Needles\nThe trick with this clock is that the needles rhat clocks usually work with will not be good, so you will need to make an extension for the short one, as we want it to reach the limit of the clock, and make a small one to change the original long one for it.\nIn this case I added a piece of cardboard to the shord one, and made a new one with a piece of plastic, but any material will work, as long as it sticks to the mechanism.\nStep 3: Check the Time\nCheck which time it is, and put your new clock acordingly, now you can start reading the time in catalan, and leave your friends astonished!!!", "312" ] ]

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[ [ "I am not very sure what you are asking, and I am also not sure that you have the background to understand CompCert. It seems that you are still confused by some basic concepts in Coq.\nI would suggest you start with Software Foundations. Most of your questions would be answered there.\nBut, basically:\n* Definition and Fixpoint are like OCaml's let and let rec, respectively. They are used to define values and functions (and, of course, propositions).\n* Inductive is like type in OCaml, or datatype in SML. They are used to define algebraic data types (or \"inference rules\").\n* Prop is the sort of propositions, so Definition and Inductive that return Props are defining propositions (i.e., \"proof rules\"). The Definition and Inductives are not themselves proofs.\n* <PERSON>, Theorem, Corollary, etc...are used for proofs.\n* Coq is based on the <PERSON>-Howard correspondence: a proof of the proposition $A \\rightarrow B$ is a function that takes something of type $A$ and produces something of type $B$, a proof by induction corresponds to a recursive function, etc.", "904" ], [ "A proof of $A = B$ is obtained by transforming both sides and applying the only constructor of the type $=$, which is Refl of x * x (not Coq syntax, but you should get it). So, all proofs by tactic actually expand into programs!\n* In other words, Coq tactics are just another style of programming. You can use Definition and/or Fixpoint to write proofs, or use Proof to write programs. Of course, you should not do so; but you can.\n* CompCert is indeed proved against a formal specification. Which one? The official C programming language specification! Of course, you can't really prove anything against the text of the specification, so they encoded the specification in Coq using Definitions and Inductives.\nIn Software Foundations, there are examples of verifying a few toy interpreters and some toy programs, as well as more serious examples of verifying algorithms like red-black tree insertions and graph coloring. It does a pretty good job of explaining what and how to prove when you are writing programs in Coq. I would suggest that you start from there.", "904" ] ]

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[ [ "Stuffed Toys - Alphabet Gang Using Recycled Tshirts\nIntroduction: Stuffed Toys - Alphabet Gang Using Recycled Tshirts\nWhat can you do with all the T-Shirts that no one wants to wear anymore? I turned mine into a Stuffed Toy- My Alphabet Gang. Since they are cotton and is super soft, making it a perfect toy for younger kids. You can make the whole 26 letters set or choose alphabets of your choice. The kids can learn their alphabets or learn to spell. And it is washable.\nJoin me on another super easy and fun project. Turning something forgotten into something fun!\nSupplies\n1-Any Colored cotton T-shirts for the alphabets.\n2-White and Black Tshirts for the eyes ( optional).\n3-Printed Fonts on a paper\n4-Polyester fiber fillings for stuffing\n5-Needle and white thread\n6-Bobby pins\n7-Measuring tape / ruler\n8-Thin cardboard\n9-Glue gun or fabric glue\nSewing machine\nScissors\nStep 1: Prepping\nFind a font that you like. Preferably one with a thicker stroke. It is easier to sew something that is bigger vs a thinner or smaller design.\n1-Print it to the size you like. I used 650 font size on a A4 paper.\n2-Cut out the font. Turn your Tshirt inside out.\n3-Pinned the design onto the Tshirt.\n4-Follow the font design and cut the Tshirt. Be careful, as you are cutting both layers. Give yourself generous allowance seam. I gave myself about ½ - 3/4 inch width. Sewing with stretchy cotton can be tricky. Having more seam allowance makes it more forgiving of not running out of seam width while sewing.\n5-When you are stitching both design pieces together, remember to leave a section open to turn the right side of the material back to the front. Look at my green letter T, I left a small section the top unsewn.\nThis opening also allows you to stuff your stuffing for your stuffed toy.\nStep 2: Stuffing\n1- After stitching the letter together, trim off excess seam and thread.\n2- Make a slit ( a straight small cut) on corners and turns section.", "316" ], [ "This will make it easier to flip the right side back out.\n3- Start stuffing the letter and finish it with simple whip stich. **Note - Begin the whip stitch by tying a knot in the end of your thread and poke from between the two pieces. This way the knot will be hidden between the two pieces of fabric. Next, poke the needle up through both layers of fabric so the needle and thread come up in almost the same place as in step 1. Pull snugly and start stitching in a slight angle. repeat till you are done with the section you wanted to seal off.\nStep 3: Making the Eyes\nTo make the eyes ( optional) for your alphabets, I used white and black Tshirts.\n1- for larger circle, I can draw on the fabric. Cut out 2 white circles with 2 inches diameter. Draw a smaller circle to guide you with stitching.\n2- for smaller circle and dark colored fabric, I cut out ½ inch diameter circle from the card board and then use it as a guide to cut 2 circles on the black tshirt. Using a cardboard makes it easier when you are cutting small designs.\n3-Use your thread and needle, sew a running stitch ( a basic stitch that goes in and under and in and under on the fabric). I stitched on the smaller circle I drew onto the fabric. It is to help me stitch it more evenly.\n4-Once you have all the stitches done, pull the thread snugly, you can see the seams gathered together to form a ball. Open it back slightly to place a small portion of stuffing inside. Then pull the thread together. Finished with a knot. Do not cut of the thread and needle, we will need it to stitch the eyes onto the alphabet.\n5-Turn the white ball over and glue the black circle on it. The placement of the black circle will give you different characteristics of the finished alphabet.\nStep 4: Finishing the Alphabet\n1-Lastly, stitch the eyes to the alphabet.\nNow if you have enough letters, you can use it to form a word. I used my 3 letters to form the word Mat.", "316" ] ]

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[ [ "What benefit does the brain have on computers in a human brain computer\nThe concept of brain computer implants assumes that there's some net positive for either a machine or the brain when it comes to calculating or computing things. Usually there is a focus on what the computer can do for the human brain, but this takes the reverse. Essentially what exactly can the human brain do for a computer to make it run better or more efficiently.\nOn a conceptual level would a brain be able to expand the set of problems that a computer can solve (P-NP), help resolve things like deadlocks, thread starvation, short circuiting based on visual patterns (image processing), act as a shoe in to solve things like segfaults/access out of bounds errors, stop a program from completely crashing based on bad input or outputs, break out of infinite/bad loops, or counter things like adversarial inputs for networks by automatically filtering bad inputs out. Essentially working with the compiler/interpreter to reduce errors and improve processing time.\nThe question comes down to, what benefit does a human brain have for a computer when the two are combined.\nOne situation I can see is a brain greatly aiding a computer is in verifying NLP confidence values when running analysis on a sentence. Essentially a program is using something like the <PERSON> algorithm to test how correct a certain sentence or conversation classification is.", "634" ], [ "The human brain is better when it comes to language understanding because of things like cultural influence/grammar and will be able to aid in creating a better confidence of sentence classification. In this case the brain isn't doing any actual calculations, rather it is verifying a given solution. The major aftereffects are that it would help improve future classification accuracy by updating training sets or values. Without human verification a model could continually classify sentences wrong if it's never corrected.\nAll that said, I'm not sure if this is the place to ask the question. There doesn't seem to be a cognitive sciences stack exchange, and this doesn't really fit the bill for AI SE. If there is somewhere else better suited for this question, please let me know.", "57" ] ]

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[ [ "Convert Old Display Panel Into Sleek Monitor\nIntroduction: Convert Old Display Panel Into Sleek Monitor\nI’m a huge fan of retro gaming and it’s really been a long time playing any sort of games, So I was wondering if I can build a retro gaming setup with raspberry pi and an old display panel. But while building, the idea just spiralled out and I had other ideas to build the retro setup, which I will discuss in the future Instructable.\nSo, instead of shredding down all the work I did so far, I converted the old monitor into a thin-bezel secondary monitor. Already there are plenty of videos/articles around the internet explaining how to convert the LCD panel into a Monitor or a Tv. So we'll focus more on the design and making the display sleek. I think this would be a great project if you are just getting started to work with wood just like me.\nSupplies\nThis is the list of products that can help you do this project with ease\n(Affiliate Link)\n* 3d printer: https://amzn.to/3trVWKw\n* printer upgrades: https://amzn.to/3hbK3Ga\n* Black filament: https://amzn.to/3orgpiA\n* Glue gun:https://amzn.to/2WiuKUa\n* Screws: https://amzn.to/3vdF1zj\n* drill: https://amzn.to/3yYFA0S\n* jigsaw: https://amzn.to/3zweaRD\n* Isopropyl alcohol: https://amzn.to/3BdokHS\n* Black Spray paint: https://amzn.to/3z3Wxaf\n* V59 universal board / inverter / LVD cable: https://amzn.to/3J1e9YN\n* TV base stand: https://amzn.to/3otKnTi\nStep 1: LCD Panel\nI got this LCD panel from an old LG monitor that I borrowed from a friend. If you like you can also buy the same LCD panel directly from various vendors, but that doesn’t seem too exciting and it doesn’t do any justice for a DIY project so, I highly recommend getting a used monitor or a monitor with a broken display controller.\nThat’s right, I mentioned broken controller because in this build I will use a v59 universal driver board to control the LCD panel, by which we get a variety of options like HDMI, VGA, audio port , USB media, etc. To confirm if the driver is compatible with your LCD panel just look at the back, for the model number.", "33" ], [ "Which will help in confirming the compatibility with the universal driver. After confirming the compatibility, make sure to get an inverter as well, which will supply the power for the back light. If you like to buy the similar driver and the inverter I have given the link for both in the on the supply section.\nStep 2: Wood Working\nFor the rest of the construction I’m going to use a ¾ inch wood, which will act as the support, frame and the housing for the driver and inverter. Start with cutting the support frame with the same dimension as the LCD panel [Might vary depending on the display you have], to keep the footprint, small as possible. Then make a small cut out in the middle which will act as the housing for the electronics [Also depends on the size of the circuit you have].\nThen don't forget to drill a few holes in the bottom for the plastic stands which we’ll later include in the build.\nTo separate the LCD panel and the electronics between the cut out, I’m going to use this 3mm wood [from one of my old project] and make some slots and holes to pass through wires between the driver and the LCD panel.\nOnce you have placed everything in place and feels good move on to painting.\nStep 3: Painting\nFirst, start with masking the LCD panel with newspaper and painter's tape. In my case, I used insulation tape, which was a very bad idea because of the marking that was left on the LCD panel.\nI used black acrylic paint for the panel and the wooden frame.\n[Note: Be careful not to get the paint on the display]\nStep 4: Cleaning\nOnce the painting is done, remove the newspaper carefully without damaging the LCD panel. To remove the tape marking you can use the isopropyl alcohol to clean the surface.\nBut for the wooden frame and the 3mm wooden panel, cleaning might not be necessary because the LCD panel will concealed them.\nOnce you are done with cleaning, you can start the electronics assembly.", "996" ] ]

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[ [ "Three Foreign Lawyers Have Returned Home Safely, But What’s Life Like for Local Attorneys in Tajikistan? · Global Voices\nTurkish lawyers returned to their home country. Photo: Turkish Minister of Foreign Affairs <PERSON> / Twitter\nTajikistani authorities have released three lawyers (one from Russia and two from Turkey) after briefly detaining them in the capital city of Dushanbe, where the three tried to meet with arrested leaders of the banned Islamic Revival Party of Tajikistan (IRPT), the party's arrested lawyers, and the family members of arrested lawyers.\nLast fall, two prominent Tajik lawyers were arrested after they launched a defense campaign for the arrested leaders of the IRPT, which is banned in the country.\nAfter landing in Istanbul, following her release, Turkish lawyer <PERSON> tweeted:\nİstanbuldayız.Herkesten Allah razı olsun. Allah Tacikistanda tutulan mazlum müslümanların yar ve yardımcısı olsun.\n— <PERSON> (@Gulden_Sonmez) January 23, 2016\nWe are In Istanbul. Let Allah be happy with you all. Let Allah help all Muslims who are struggling in Tajikistan.\nHer Russian colleague, <PERSON>, wasted no time informing his followers on Facebook—who had been talking about picketting Tajikistan's consulate in Moscow—that he is safe.\nУважаемые друзья и братья,я только что приземлился в аэропорту Домадедово,а это значить мне удалось вернуться в Москву.", "148" ], [ "Самолет задержали на час и я сел последним,как решил свой вопрос. Я адвокат и не нарушал никаких законов Таджикистана и это скорее было попытка лишить меня воли и желания продолжить начатую работу по оказанию содействия своим таджикским коллегам. В ближайшие дни детали этой поездки мы доведем на большой пресс- конференции для мировых СМИ и правозащитных организаций в Стамбуле. Благодарю всех,кто был обеспокоен фактом моего задержания и слава Аллаху все благополучно разрешилось!\nDear friends and brothers, I have just landed in Domodedovo airport. I've made it back to Moscow. The flight was postponed for an hour and I was the last one who got into his seat on the plane after resolving the issue.", "355" ] ]

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[ [ "<PERSON> Stress Tensor in the absence of a magnetic field\nI'm having some trouble calculating the stress tensor in the case of a static electric field without a magnetic field. Following the derivation on Wikipedia,\n1. Start with <PERSON> force: $$\\mathbf{F} = q(\\mathbf{E} + \\mathbf{v}\\times\\mathbf{B})$$\n2. Get force density $$\\mathbf{f} = \\rho\\mathbf{E} + \\mathbf{J}\\times\\mathbf{B}$$\n3. Substitute using <PERSON>'s laws $$\\mathbf{f} = \\epsilon_0 \\left(\\boldsymbol{\\nabla}\\cdot \\mathbf{E} \\right)\\mathbf{E} + \\frac{1}{\\mu_0} \\left(\\boldsymbol{\\nabla}\\times \\mathbf{B} \\right) \\times \\mathbf{B} - \\epsilon_0 \\frac{\\partial \\mathbf{E}}{\\partial t} \\times \\mathbf{B}$$\n4. Replace some curls and combine $$\\mathbf{f} = \\epsilon_0\\left[ (\\boldsymbol{\\nabla}\\cdot \\mathbf{E} )\\mathbf{E} + (\\mathbf{E}\\cdot\\boldsymbol{\\nabla}) \\mathbf{E} \\right] + \\frac{1}{\\mu_0} \\left[(\\boldsymbol{\\nabla}\\cdot \\mathbf{B} )\\mathbf{B} + (\\mathbf{B}\\cdot\\boldsymbol{\\nabla}) \\mathbf{B} \\right] - \\frac{1}{2} \\boldsymbol{\\nabla}\\left(\\epsilon_0 E^2 + \\frac{1}{\\mu_0} B^2 \\right)\n5. \\epsilon_0\\frac{\\partial}{\\partial t}\\left( \\mathbf{E}\\times \\mathbf{B}\\right)$$\n6. Get the tensor $$\\sigma_{i j} = \\epsilon_0 \\left(E_i E_j - \\frac{1}{2} \\delta_{ij} E^2\\right) + \\frac{1}{\\mu_0} \\left(B_i B_j - \\frac{1}{2} \\delta_{ij} B^2\\right)$$\n7.", "649" ], [ "Assuming B=0: $$\\sigma_{i j} = \\epsilon_0 \\left(E_i E_j - \\frac{1}{2} \\delta_{ij} E^2\\right)$$\n8. Assume flat surface with perpendicular field (z-direction) $$\\sigma_{z z} = \\epsilon_0 \\left(E^2 - \\frac{1}{2} E^2\\right)=\\frac{\\epsilon_0}{2} E^2$$\nThis is the formula given in e.g. The Feynman Lectures in Physics Vol. 2 (Page 31-14), and some other text books.\nHowever, this derivation seems to assume a magnetic field until the final steps. Since most terms in eq. 4 result from the initial v x B term (even those that depend only on E, $(\\mathbf{E}\\cdot\\boldsymbol{\\nabla}) \\mathbf{E}$ and $\\frac{1}{2} \\boldsymbol{\\nabla}\\epsilon_0 E^2$ ), these should not be present in my case, and in fact eq 4 should be as simple as $$ \\mathbf{f} = \\epsilon_0\\left[ (\\boldsymbol{\\nabla}\\cdot \\mathbf{E} )\\mathbf{E}\\right] $$\nTensor calculus is not my strong point. To me it is not clear how to get from eq 4 to eq 5, and how modifying eq 4 alters the resulting stress tensor. Will it really still be the same as eq 6? To me it seems strange that removing terms would not affect the result, yet this seems to be what many text books claim. Or is there some reason why the initial v x B term can not be removed, even when there is no magnetic field?", "649" ] ]

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[ [ "Balrog Glowing Flames\nIntroduction: Balrog Glowing Flames\nSo i had this 3d printing file of balrog for a while now and i didnt know what kind of project to make with it until i saw the Hot Glue competition. That's when i got the inspiration to make the flames on the back of the balrog glow from flexible LEDs filaments and use silicone glue to shape the flames. The balrog model is holding a flame sword and i modified the file so that the balrog will be holding his glowing flaming whip which we can also use the flexible LED filaments.\nIn order to power all the LEDs, im going to modified the balrog base and put a powerbank with a switch on it. As usual all modifications was done using Tinkercad and 3d printed. This time i'm using a mix of normal FDM 3d printer and a DLP resin 3d printer. Im using DLP resin printer cause the model is only 18cm-ish and the detail will be lost if im using FDM printer.\nDifficulty level:\n1. 3D printing - Easy\n2. Assembly - Intermediate (we'll be using hot glue gun.. need to be careful of hot silicone glue)\n3. Wiring - Easy\n4. Painting - Intermediate (we'll be using a mix of airbrushing and normal brush)\nP.S. getting the wiring to fit into the model channel is gonna be challenging..\nSo lets get started..\nSupplies\n1. LED flexible filaments- 26cm long x 2\n2. TP4056, DC-DC buck converter - USB to lithium battery with protection\n3. Lithium battery 18650 3.7v\n4. Lithium battery 18650 1 cell holder\n5.", "231" ], [ "Wires - AWG24\n6. Wires - AWG18\n7. Rocker switch 2pins - 15x10mm\n8. M3 screw - 8mm or 10mm\n9. 0.8mm tinned copper wire - 30cm long\n10. Silicone glue & glue gun\n11. Mini flame torch\n12. Soldering iron (to connect the LED & PCB to the wires)\n13. Airbrush set with colors\nAnd of course a FDM 3d printer and DLP Resin 3d printer to print all the parts.. all part will be able to fit into a 200x200mm printer..\nStep 1: 3D Printing All Parts\nI will only share parts of the balrog model that I modified myself for the wiring and LED flames.\n* https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5428420\n* https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/balrog-glowing-flames\nthe rest of the STL parts can be bought from the original designer here:\n* cults3d\n* cgtrader\nThe body i 3d printed using a DLP resin printer (Mono X) while the base is printed on FDM printer (ENDER 5Plus). you can print all the parts using FDM or DLP whichever your preference.\nOnce all the parts are printed, you'll need to cleanup all the supports.\nStep 2: Wiring\nIn this step we're gonna feed the wires through the channel i made on the body parts.\nBefore we do that, see the diagram for the wiring of the LEDs to the battery powerbank. Both flexible LEDs will be wired parallel to the USB lithium converter.\nThere are 3 body parts that will need wiring running throught them\n1. Tail & body - AWG24 or AWG18\n2. Right hand - AWG24 only\nYou can use AWG24 wires to run all the channel but you cant use AWG18 since the wire is too big to feed into the right hand.\nWhen you wire the body to tail to powerbank, make sure to have a lot of slack for easy wiring later on.. i added like 15cm extra wire that came out of the tail..\nRun a set of wires from the right hand to the back of the body and run another set of wires from the tail to the back of the body. The right hand channel is slightly small so you'll have to wiggle the wires until it runs though the channel\nThe wire that comes out of the tail needs a lot of slack so it can go thought the base and connect to the powerbank.\nStep 3: Base With Powerbank\nMaking the powerbank is quite straight forward.\nBase on the picture you should be able to understand how i wired everything.\nMake sure to solder all the wires connected to the USB charger first before anything else.\nThe rocker switch should be last.\nI glued everything down using silicone glue to keep them in place.\nOnce done..", "996" ] ]

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[ [ "Tokyo Clash Review\nEditorial note: I use the terms Kaiju and Daikaiju in equal amounts in this review.\nKaiju = Monster. Daikaiju = Giant Monster. Daikaiju is more accurate nomenclature, though simply using kaiju to describe giant monsters is growing to be part of common parlance in English. Consider them to have the same definition and interchangeable.\nIntroduction and Conclusion:\nIf you are a fan of corny yet somehow charming Daikaiju movies, despite their best efforts at cinematic self-sabotage, you may have often found yourself daydreaming of being in the middle of your own urban rampage. Idle fantasies of terrorizing various denizens on the island of Honshu while battling other titanic monstrosities which are just as ridiculous as you, then you likely live a life of disappointment in a long line of games that have promised you heady excitement, only for it to miserably fail to deliver after you have listened to its slowly expressed box fart.\nYou may have even likely grown to believe that since you are a daikaiju fan, that you don't deserve anything more than garbage shoveled on to you. Always waiting for this dysfunctional cycle to end in hopes of a healthy relationship to finally come your way after enduring such sublime pain, for so very long. You may even feel a special sense of personal value for being a self imposed martyr. It's an easy trap to fall into.\nJoining support groups so that you may discuss what is wrong with a specific kaiju game. Yet never discussing what is right about a game, since you have never had any healthy examples of what that would or could be. So, you remain locked in a dysfunctional feedback loop, fated to remain in negativity.\nYou see all these other thematic settings getting adequate and engaging game designs attached to them. Medieval marine mercantilism, fashion designers, gem dealers, lemmings, comic book super heroes, fjords of Norway, birdwatching, etc... The list is as limitless as the human desire to convey imagination and creativity.\n\"But, what about me?!?\" I hear you cry, dear kaiju enthusiast? When are you going to get your turn to be treated well? Where is your cure for attachment disorder?\nIs Tokyo Clash the game you can bring home to meet your family? Secretly hoping that this will become something long term, and not embarrassing for you to admit that you enjoy?\nThe short answer is, 'yes'.\nYou may now strike a pose and do a victory dance.", "504" ], [ "Go ahead, dear kaiju fan. You deserve it.\nThis is the kaiju game that will make you a healthier kaiju fan, and help you realize that you too deserve to be treated well. That you deserve to be happy. That you are an integral part of the world, just like those Renaissance farmers and ancient Peruvian astronomers. You belong, and are wanted. *rubs patchouli on your third eye chakra*\nTokyo Clash gives daikaiju fans what they should expect. Urban brawling, throwing each other and various human constructed items at each other for dominance and coaxing egos that match our gargantuan heights. Where you are inexplicably drawn to the middle of human habitations, like moths drawn to a flame, demolishing these cities and leaving wastelands in your wake. The game's complexity has a low demand on your mental real estate, which would otherwise prevent you from dedicating some space for fun, like imitating battle growls of your favorite daikaiju, laughing hysterically at the ludicrous fun of being part of a small group of 600 ton bullies amongst a colony of ants. Tokyo Clash doesn't require being a kaiju fan to enjoy it. In fact, I am willing to place wagers that this game is good enough to be the catalyst to create daikaiju fans.\nMy final rating of Godzilla: Tokyo Clash is 8.5 out of 10.\nI enjoy it immensely and look forward to taking it with me to board game meet ups in hopes of finding other people who will join me in unleashing some titanic temper tantrums in Tokyo, and will never turn down a game. I am even supplementing the game on my own by adding 3-dimensional replacements for various bits to enhance the suspension of disbelief, investing even more money/time/and thought into this game whose design has exceeded my expectations.\nThe following is the why and how I have come to those conclusions:\nPhysical representation of the setting:\nStarting with the box cover, we are thrown into fan service for the genre as seen from a westerner’s perspective after it has been smuggled into the west for our consumption. Everything is in English, and this is an entirely English language product.", "504" ] ]

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[ [ "Direct answer to the question: yes, there are esoteric and highly impractical PLs based on $\\mu$-recursive functions (think Whitespace), but no practical programming language is based on $\\mu$-recursive functions due to valid reasons.\nGeneral recursive (i.e., $\\mu$-recursive) functions are significantly less expressive than lambda calculi. Thus, they make a poor foundation for programming languages. You are also not correct that the TM is the basis of imperative PLs: in reality, good imperative programming languages are much closer to $\\lambda$-calculus than they are to Turing machines.\nIn terms of computability, $\\mu$-recursive functions, Turing machine, and the untyped $\\lambda$-calculus are all equivalent. However, the untyped LC has good properties that none of the other two have. It is very simple (only 3 syntactic forms and 2 computational rules), is highly compositional, and can express programming constructs relatively easily. Moreover, equipped with a simple type system (e.g., System $F\\omega$ extended with $\\mathsf{fix}$), the $\\lambda$-calculus can be extremely expressive in that it can express many complex programming constructs easily, correctly and compositionally. You can also extend the $\\lambda$-calculus easily to include constructs that are not lambdas. None of the other computational models mentioned above give you those nice properties.\nThe <PERSON> machine is neither compositional nor universal (you need to have a TM for each problem). There are no concepts of \"functions\", \"variables\" or \"composition\". It is also not exactly true that TMs are the basis of imperative PLs - FWIW, imperative PLs are much, much closer to lambda calculi with control operators than to Turing machines. See <PERSON> \"A Correspondence Between ALGOL 60 and Church's Lambda-Notation\" for a detailed explanation. If you have programmed in Brainf**k (which actually implements a rather simple Turing machine), you will know that Turing machines are not a good idea for programming.\n$\\mu$-recursive functions are similar to TMs in this respect.", "904" ], [ "They are compositional, but not nearly as compositional as the LC. You also just can't encode useful programming constructs in $\\mu$-recursive functions. Moreover, the $\\mu$-recursive functions only compute over $\\mathbb{N}$, and to compute over anything else you'd need to encode your data into natural numbers using some sort of <PERSON> numbering, which is painful.\nSo, it is not a coincidence that most programming languages are somehow based off the $\\lambda$-calculus! The $\\lambda$-calculus has good properties: expressiveness, compositionality and extensibility, that other systems lack. However, Turing machines are good for studying computational complexity, and $\\mu$-recursive functions are good for studying the logical notion of computability. They both have outstanding properties that the $\\lambda$-calculus lacks, but in the field of programming $\\lambda$-calculus clearly wins.\nIn fact, there are many, many more Turing complete systems out there, but they lack any outstanding property whatsoever. Conway's Game of Life, LaTeX macros, and even (some claim) DNA are all Turing complete, but no one programs (i.e. do serious programming) with Conway or studies computational complexity using LaTeX macros. They simply lack good properties. Turing complete per se is nearly meaningless when it comes to programming.\nAlso, many non-Turing complete computational systems are very useful when it comes to programming. Regular expressions and yacc are not Turing complete, but they are extremely powerful in solving a certain class of problems. Coq is also not Turing complete, but it is incredibly powerful (it's actually considered much more expressive than its Turing complete cousin, OCaml). When it comes to programming, <PERSON> completeness is not the key, as many (close to) useless systems are uninterestingly Turing complete. You're not going to claim that Brainfk or Whitespace are more powerful programming languages than Coq, are you? An expressive foundation is the key to powerful programming languages, and that's why modern programming languages are almost always based on the $\\lambda$-calculus.", "904" ] ]

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[ [ "DIY Miniature Solar System...\nIntroduction: DIY Miniature Solar System...\nToday in this instructables im going to make a miniature solar system using just household and some common craft items..i didn't used any fancy equipment or materials to just keep this project very easy to recreat even by small children...\nFirstly as for a solar system... As you all know that we have different sized planets... Some are really big like jupotar... And some are like very small like venues... And we have the sun.. Which is way larger than any other planet in our solar system in size comparison..... So it's almost impossible to make all the planets in their actual proportion.... With the sun in original proportion.... To solve that problem I have scaled every planet and the sun in manageable and quite OK sizes..... I will leave a chart which I made for this purpose....\nSo without wasting further time... Let's get into the project... 😄😄😄\nStep 1: Things We Gonna Need...\nFor this simple project I made a easy to follow process... And here are the items we are going to need...\n* Modeling clay /epoxy clay\n* Some regular powder\n* Cardboard\n* Acrylic paint\n* Some wooden sticks\n* Superglue\n* Black permanent marker (sharpy)\n* Craft glue\n* Some random stuffs\nAlso there are some items or tools, which are needed for this build but they are optional...\n* Glue gun and hot glue sticks\n* Drill bit (same sized of the wooden stick)\n* Drill machine (battery one is preferred)\n* Paint brush\n* Sculpting tools\n* Randon tools\nStep 2: Mixing Some Epoxy Clay\nFirstly take each amount of both A part and B part and mix until homogeneous...\nI will suggest to mix the clay for atleast 2 minutes...\nRemember one thing... If the clay isn't mixed well... It will cause problem in the hardening process... So make sure that the clay is mixed well.... And if you are using epoxy clay like me.. Then it will start getting warmer and will start to solidify....\nSo be quick...\nStep 3: Forming the Planets\nMake a long piece from that mixed epoxy clay.. And then simply take a part from it...\nStart rolling the clay and form a sphere..... The diameter should be 23 mm (roughly)... If you are using my dimensions..\nThis will be the sun.... At first the sphere will not be perfect...", "733" ], [ "Make a rough shape.. And then shape it later...\nAs like the sun... Now make the other 8 planets (I'm skipping Pluto as it's now a dwarf planet... And it's too tiny to make)\nHere are the diameters for the following planets\nSun - 23 mm\nMercury - 2.5 mm\nVenus - 6 mm\nEarth - 6.5 mm\nMars - 3.5 mm\nJupiter - 14 mm\nSaturn - 11.5 mm\nUranus - 8.5 mm\nNeptune - 8 mm\nStep 4: Let the Planets Set\nNow after forming the planets... Leave them for atleast 2 hours to let them harden..\nI will suggest you to give them a complete 6 hour rest... Depending on your clay type...\nIf you want.. You can occasionally roll them further to make them more round...\nStep 5: Start Preparing the Base\nTake a circle of cardboard with a radius of 7 cm...\nAnd matching cardboard stripes with a width of 3.5 cm\nNow... Using hot glue... Attach the outer ring around the circle... Use a 2nd piece of needed...\nStep 6: Drilling Into the Planets\nTake a drill bit of the same size of the wooden sticks..\nDrill in the spheres...\nDrill only halfway.... Dont drill through the planets....\nI will suggest you to leave Mercury and other small planets....\nAfter drilling take 9 equal sized small wooden sticks (1.5 cm each)\nUsing hot glue... Fix the sticks in the planet...\nAnd for the smaller planets.... Just simply stick the planets in the sticks using superglue\n. Let the glue dry for some time...\nStep 7: Prime the Planets\nAfter the planets are on their respective sticks....\nPrime the planets with white acrylic paint...\nUse 2 coats.... And dry them as well\nStep 8: Finish the Planet Colouring\nNow... It's the fun part...\nDownload some reference images of the solar system and the individual planets...\nTake your time and paint the planets as shown in the pictures.... I'm not perfect... But I tried...\nAlso in this step you have to do 2 more things...\n1. Add a outer ring around the Saturn.... Made with normal paper.. And paint that as well...\n2. Paint the sticks in black...", "636" ] ]

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[ [ "Criminal\n<PERSON> is absolutely correct that The Fugitive would be better if the first half of it were <PERSON>, his wife, and a lady cop all being intensely horny for each other in various permutations.\nAfter that, he reluctantly does remake The Fugitive, but you can kind of tell he doesn't much want to. He underplays all that movie's most iconic scenes--or outright skips them--and gives <PERSON>, in the <PERSON> role, basically nothing. He's much more interested in the tortured yearning between policewoman <PERSON> (a character very much not present in the original) and <PERSON> (in the <PERSON> role).", "698" ], [ "The second half's best scene is the only one that's just the two of them, and it's much more in <PERSON>'s preferred lane.\nIt's such a stark contrast to his approach when remaking It Happened One Night, where he treated nearly every beat with reverence. He's not wrong that It Happened One Night is a better movie, but given that, why remake The Fugitive at all? Especially if you're only going to spend about forty minutes of your 2.5 hour movie doing so?\nOther flaws include some disappointingly limp action beats (including the most perfunctory handling imaginable of the big jump off the dam), weak villains, and a pretty dull villain scheme motivating the action.\nBut this is still pretty good, owing to the strength of that (shockingly horny) first hour, that one <PERSON>/<PERSON> scene in the second (which is really the only scene after the interval that much feels like <PERSON> being <PERSON>), some great music from <PERSON>, and a very strong core three performers in <PERSON>, <PERSON>, and <PERSON>. It doesn't quite live up to the promise it seems to have early on, when you think that lovelorn (and ultimately scorned) <PERSON> is playing the <PERSON> role and adding a whole lot of interesting emotional layers and deeply personal stakes to an already proven dramatic dynamic, but alas that's not where it's going. That version of this movie might have been a classic, this one is just pretty fun.", "698" ] ]

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[ [ "My cat is rapidly losing weight\nMy 1 year old calico kitty is losing weight, she's my world and I'm really anxious. My family and I are tight on money right now so I have to wait another week until I can get my paycheck to get her to a vet to check her out.\nShe went from 9 pounds to 7.8 over the past 2 months and idk what to do. I work with dogs and other cats so I'm nervous I brought something home.", "176" ], [ "She's picky but I might try to bring home high calorie food but besides that what else can I do in the meantime to keep her from losing more weight? She's now losing 0.1 pounds a day and I'm so nervous she's never been this light before. I've been giving her doxycycline that my mom gave to me since my mom's friend is a vet. She hates it since it tastes gross but it's not helping. What else can I do for her?", "601" ] ]

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[ [ "Society of the Snow\nA couple of days ago I finished reading Man's Search for Meaning and watching now this seems to be serendipitous.\nWhat's the meaning of it all? Not only this extreme experience, but all our little dramas, our intimate struggles. Do they mean something? Are they worth fighting? What for? I think Society of the Snow does not offer a conclusive answer, because that is, by definition, a very personal matter, but it offers clues, and they seem to coincide with <PERSON> work. There seems to be no intrinsic meaning for anything, but, instead, an innate search for meaning in all of us.", "72" ], [ "Things have to mean something and it is our task not to find meaning, but to create it. How? Where to look for? Well, just think who do you love, what do you look forward to, what is that you want to be remembered for. If everything was lost, who, or what would keep you alive? Then, the answer will be close.\nI also want to show my appreciation for <PERSON> little twist in the narrative structure. It was a very surprising and elegant touch.", "427" ] ]

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[ [ "MicroFluidic Pumping System\nIntroduction: MicroFluidic Pumping System\nThe Challenge\nInvestigating biological processes often requires model systems that mimic naturally occurring physiological environments. Many animal models and cell lines have served as gold standard tools for biomedical researchers to investigate biological functions in laboratories. Yet, many vital bio-activities such as hormones production rely on fluid dynamics to propagate signalling molecules at the right place and time throughout the body. In investigating such long-range communication mechanisms, a need exist to precisely mimic and control physiological fluid environments in laboratory settings. As a result, many commercial pumping systems are now available:\n* Programmable syringe pump system *\n* Peristaltic Pumping system *\n* Pressure controller system **\nYet, commercial solutions come highly expensive and are difficult to customize based on application requirements. As a result, various low-cost open source solutions have recently emerged in the literature:\n* Open-source syringe pump system **\n* Pressure controller *\n* Piezoelectric pumping system *\nAlthough being low cost and easily customizable, open-source solutions lack an intuitive user interface allowing to easily adjust pumping parameters without modifying the underlying source code of the system.\nProject Objectives / Scope\nThe present project aims to improve the design of the PiFlow system by designing a graphical user interface to be displayed on an LCD touch screen display to adjust flow rate parameters easily. Specifically, the interface will allow the user to select between three different modes. The static flow mode will allow setting a constant flow rate (uL/Min) to be executed for a pre-defined flow time (Sec).", "171" ], [ "The dynamic flow mode will allow the user to select a range of flow rate values where the system will linearly adjust the pumping rate (uL/Min) following a pre-defined sweep rate (uL/Min) adjustable through the interface. Lastly, for applications requiring higher complexity, a custom mode will allow the upload of a CSV file containing a list of flow rate parameters to be executed by the system. The underlying code of the interface will be made available for modification and improvement on the Github Project Page. Overall, the interface serves as a first design iteration utilizable in various microfluidic open source systems.\nSupplies\nMechanical Components\n* 3D Printing Filament - PLA Plastic\n* 3D Printer - Creality Ender 3\n* Clear Plastic Glue\nElectronic Components\n* 1x Raspberry Pi 3 Model B\n* 2x High Pump Driver (Best for high flow rate application - Select the driver according to required flow rate)\n* 2x Low Pump Driver (Best for low flow rate application - Select the driver according to required flow rate)\n* 2x 0.1 uF Decoupling Capacitor\n* 2x TMU Switch IC\n* 2x Molex Connector\n* Raspberry Pi Pin Connectors\n* 1x 7'' LCD Screen\n* 1x HDMI 90' Adapter\n* 1x HDMI Extender Capble\nFluidic Components\n* Tygon tubing 1.3 mm inner diameter\n* 2x Piezoelectric Pump\n* Luer Tubing Adapter\nSoftware & Manufacturing House\n* Autodesk Eagle\n* JLC PCB\n* Fusion 360\n* The Eric Python IDE\n* QT Designer\nStep 1: Mechanical Design\nProcedures\n* Fusion 360 was utilized to design the components. The STL files provided below can be downloaded and uploaded directly into a 3D printer. Alternatively, the Fusion 360 Model can be downloaded from the Autodesk Gallery.\n* The printing parameters selected according to standard recommendations for PLA material:\nBed Temperature --> 70C\nNozzle Temperature --> 220C\nFlow Rate --> 90%\n* Each component was assembled using Clear Plastic Glue which was found to be durable. Alternatively, the design can be modified to allow assembly with screws.\n* Holes were drilled according to the Luer Tubing Adapter dimensions. Clear plastic glue was used to mount the adapters.\n* The inner diameters of the bottle holders can be adjusted according to the size of the solution vessels utilized.\nStep 2: Electronic Circuit\nElectronic Components\n* 1x Raspberry Pi 3 Model B\n* 2x High Pump Driver (Best for high flow rate application - Select the driver according to required flow rate)\n* 2x Low Pump Driver (Best for low flow rate application - Select the driver according to required flow rate)\n* 2x Piezoelectric Pump\n* 2x 0.1 uF Decoupling Capacitor\n* 2x TMU Switch IC\n* 2x Molex Connector\n* Raspberry Pi Pin Connectors\n* 1x 7'' LCD Screen\n* 1x HDMI 90' Adapter\n* 1x HDMI Extender Cable\nDesign Software & Manufacturing House\n* Autodesk Eagle\n* JLC PCB\n* Fusion 360\nProcedures\n* Upload each component into Eagle software.", "737" ] ]

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[ [ "Putting a cat up for adoption\nI have 4 cats, 2 bonded, the others over time. The bonded ones I don’t believe are truly bonded, they don’t seem to care about each other at all.", "176" ], [ "One of them is very shy, terrified of any movement and of the other cats. She only comes out to eat and use the litter box and on occasion she wants to be petted but acts like she is terrified of me and the other cats are all times. Is it wrong for me to want to regime her in hopes that she would do better in a single quiet household? I’ve had her 1.5 years and she is 2.5 years old.", "679" ] ]

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[ [ "Exchange Carpet for Finished Concrete\nIntroduction: Exchange Carpet for Finished Concrete\nProject Summary: Quick tutorial to show how to remove carpet and finish the bare concrete underneath.\nThis is an entry in the Concrete Contest, please vote if you like it: Contest Link\nSupplies\n1. Vinyl Concrete Patch (Quikrete Brand)\n2. Concrete Wet Look Sealer (Homax Brand)\n3. Caulking\n4. Paint for Touch Up\nTotal Cost = Around $60\nTools:\n1. Razor Knife\n2. Claw Pry Bar\n3. Orbital Sander\n4. Putty Knife\n5. Shop Vac\n6. Mop\n7. Floor Scrubbing Broom\n8. Lots of Patience\nStep 1: Remove Carpet & Pad\nIn my case, the carpet was in good shape, and I didn't want to throw it away, but keep it if we ever chose to put it back down (or sell the house and leave the option for the next owner). So, I simply pulled it away from the tack strips, rolled it up, and put it in the attic. (The room is slightly larger than 10'X10')\nTIP: If your area is larger and you want to keep the carpet, you can cut the carpet into more manageable pieces by cutting into rectangular shapes and mark the backing with a Sharpie to show how it goes back together. Any good carpet installer can put it back down and seal the seams.\nFor the pad, there's really no reason to try to save it, especially if its glued down as in my case.\n(Forgot to take pictures before removing the carpet.)\nStep 2: Remove Carpet Tack Strips\nI wished I had Googled this before I did it, but there are some techniques to help minimize the size of divets inflicted on the concrete as the masonry nails are pulled free. I recommend looking those up as it will simplify some later steps and help minimize the negative cosmetic effects. I simply popped them off with the 90 degree side of a claw bar.\nStep 3: Prep the Floor\nThis step is mainly just cleaning.", "726" ], [ "Vacuum as you go using a floor scraper to remove as much glue, foam, and drywall texture over spray as you can.\nTIP:Don't put a huge amount of effort into removing the drywall texture over spray by scraping or sanding. Wait till the next step.\nStep 4: Wet Clean\nGet the entire floor fully wet. This will dissolve the drywall mud over spray and you can simply vacuum it up. Repeat this step several times until fully clean.\nStep 5: Detailed Cleaning\nThis is the tedious step where you need to go over every square inch of the concrete surface to remove marks and glue residue. I found 120 grit sandpaper and a lot of elbow grease was needed particularly to get the stubborn glue residue off.\nNOTE: Avoid using cleaners of any kind throughout this entire project. (I was tempted to use some Goo Gone to get the glue off). Any chemical residue, especially acidic residue if you were to use muriatic acid to clean, will react with the sealer, and cause the sealer to become cloudy and not clear. If you read the bad reviews for Wet Look Sealers where the people say it ruined their project; its because they didnt clean it well and had some type of leftover chemical residue.\nWetting the floor as you go helps to show where there is bare concrete and where there is still concrete with some kind of gunk stuck on the surface. This is by far the longest and most tedious step, but also the most important.\nTIP: Wet concrete will show much more details of the surface than dry concrete. Similarly, the sealer will show even more. So what may look like a faded red mark in dry concrete will look like fresh lipstick after sealing, so you can't spend too much time on this step.\nStep 6: Fill Divets\nUse vinyl concrete patch like this from Quikrete. Again, the cleaner the surface the better, so ensure there is no loose debris or dust in the divets. Also, lightly wetting the surface helps the concrete to bond. Use a putty knife to fill and flatten the surface. Let dry overnight.\nTIP: Once the holes are all filled in, use a pressure sprayer or spray bottle with plain water to gently mist the surface every hour or so. The slower concrete dries the better.\nPictures above were some very large holes that were filled in for some reason. (They were actually filled in with drywall mud to make them flush to the surface.) Mistake on the original slab? If anyone knows I'd be interested to learn. It wasn't from an old remodel either. (Use the same patch material and technique used there as for the smaller divets around the perimeter.", "353" ] ]

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[ [ "BEAM Solar Powered Pummer (Heart Shaped PCB)\nIntroduction: BEAM Solar Powered Pummer (Heart Shaped PCB)\nThis is a project that I have been meaning to finish for over a year now. it is a heart shaped, BEAM based pummer circuit I made to charge up during the day and flash like a heart beating at night. The solar engine is a SIMD1 solar engine by <PERSON> and the pummer is a modified version of his power saver flasher which flashes 2 LEDs off the one oscillator.\nSee:\nhttp://solarbotics.net/library/circuits/bot_pummer...\nhttp://solarbotics.net/library/circuits/se_noct_SI...\nMy final design lasts about 3 hours from when the sun starts to go down.\nI personally love creating PCBs as a step up from breadboard or perfboard circuits, and I especially like designing PCBs that go a little beyond just connecting components. Hopefully through this Instructable you will see that while a PCB designer such as Eagle can be superbly powerful, creating a functional and aesthetic circuit such as the one presented here can be quick, fun and really accessible. I spent a day designing it all and only spent around $30USD on the PCB and components! Granted I already had assorted resistors, caps, and a soldering iron.\nStep 1: EDIT: What Is a Pummer?\nIt seems in the comments that there is a little confusion as to what a pummer is, which is very fair.\nBEAM robotics is a \"style\" of analogue circuit building, popular in the late 90s and early 2000s. BEAM circuits use minimal, analogue components, often to complete simple and very organic tasks. In BEAM robotics, a pummer is a type of circuit that displays a pattern of lights or sounds.\nSee the Wikipedia pages for a broader overview here:\nhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BEAM_robotics\nhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sitter_(BEAM)\nStep 2: Prototyping\nThe first step is to prototype the circuit on a breadboard.", "982" ], [ "I used a design almost exactly the same as Wilf's pummer from the link in step 1 however I replaced a 100k resistor at the output of the pummer with an LED and added a resistor between the output capacitor and the output LEDs to get a less bright, but longer flash. You can see here in the second photo the waveform at the node between the output LED and resistor in Wilf's original design. The peak above 2.2v is where the LED lights and the dip below just dumps charge through the 100k resistor. In my revision seen in photos 3 and 4, both the peak above 2.2v as well as the lower peak create a flash (because the voltage is being regulated to ~2.9v by the blue LED, in photo 4 you can see the other 2.2v difference, this time between the 2.9v rail and the node between the output LEDs). This revision does mean that the reference voltage LED does have to be a higher voltage than your output LEDs (and hence the circuit will run for less time) however there is less wasted charge. I like this way better however 2 oscillators, with the second acting as a slave to the first and using something closer to <PERSON>'s original circuit would also work. Just let me know if I can clarify any of this and excuse the photos of the oscilloscope screen, I had some trouble saving to USB.\nAs I was almost following <PERSON> design exactly, I mostly used this step to calculate what value components I was looking at using to make the flashes beat at a heart-like rate.\nOnce I had the circuit operating as expected I used this circuit to calculate roughly how long my pummer would last once it started flashing at night.\nTo calculate how long our circuit will last we can use 2 formulas based on the charge stored in, and the charge leaving the storage capacitor.\nFirst we know that Q=CV that is, the charge in the capacitor, \"Q\", is equal to the capacitance x the voltage across the capacitor.\nWe also know the formula for current I=Q/t where \"I\" is the current, \"Q\" is charge and \"t\" is time.\nRearranging these we can get I=(C*ΔV)/Δt where \"ΔV\" represents the change in voltage and \"Δt\" change in time (in seconds)\nHence, by measuring the voltage at one point in time and then measuring it again a certain amount of time later (I usually go about half an hour for more accurate results) we know have all the numbers on the right half of the equation and we can see how much current the circuit is drawing from the capacitor on average.", "552" ] ]

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[ [ "A beloved Trinidadian vendor regains his rightful place selling nuts at cricket matches · Global Voices\nScreenshot of “<PERSON>,” who is used to selling his fresh and roasted peanuts at sporting events like West Indies cricket. Image is taken from a YouTube video entitled, “Support for JUMBO de Nuts Man”, uploaded by <PERSON>.\nThe Caribbean Premier League (CPL) is a short-form regional cricket tournament held annually since 2013. Commonly called Twenty20 cricket, the 2019 tournament began on September 5 at the Queen's Park Oval in Port of Spain, Trinidad's capital, and the final will take place on October 12, quite fittingly at the stadium in south Trinidad named after cricket great <PERSON> — but this year, it is not the athletes who are taking centre stage — it is a “Nuts Man”.\nFood blogger <PERSON> describes the proverbial Nuts Man as “a fixture on the street food scene and at sporting events”:\nSometimes he moves around with a cart, other times with a tray around his neck. […] people line up, prepared to wait, if a particular vendor’s reputation has dubbed his roasting style worthy. You can get your nuts plain, salted, or honey roasted.\nNuts vendors are an important part of the Caribbean cricket scene.", "641" ], [ "As cricket fans flock to the matches to watch the play and other spectators show up just to soak in the party-like atmosphere, people get hungry, and nuts (traditionally peanuts and cashews) are a good away to quell a rumbling stomach without having to leave your seat.\nAs far as cricket goes, perhaps the most well known Nuts Man — at least at the Queen's Park Oval — is <PERSON>. Known for his flamboyant style of tossing packets of nuts with great accuracy to spectators scattered all over the stands, <PERSON> has been a fixture of Caribbean cricket since 1971.\nNo sooner had the 2019 CPL tournament started, however, than he put out a video, widely circulated on social media channels, which registered his discontent at being told he could not sell his nuts at the event because Sunshine Snacks, a local conglomerate, was the official sponsor:\nSocial media erupted in support of him, with some posts entreating the Oval to “reinstall this landmark”.\nFacebook user <PERSON> mused:\n[The] Thing is, fellas like Jumbo and Nuts Landing [another nuts vendor] have a grassroots ad campaign that would destroy SS [Sunshine Snacks] in the Oval in an open market…which technically is what capitalism claims to be based on. So when SS wants to lock down rights to an event…that isn't a free and open economy.\nPerhaps the most creative expression of support, though, came in the form of a YouTube video uploaded by <PERSON>, whose son performed an extempo verse (an improvised form of calypso):\nThe message got through. Four days after the first CPL 2019 match, Sunshine Snacks announced that it had partially waived their rights of exclusivity in order to allow independent nuts vendors to sell their products at the tournament.\nGeneral Manager <PERSON> explained:\nWhen the cricket fans spoke out in favour of all nuts sellers being there as a critical part of the Oval Cricket Culture and the game experience…we simply decided to put our hearts ahead of our strict sponsorship rights.\nSocial media users widely commended the company's gesture, but not everyone was in support of <PERSON>'s tactics. On a public thread, some Facebook users felt that his methods were at odds with the sponsors’ paid rights; others questioned whether <PERSON> had gone through the proper procedures which might have granted him the privilege of selling at the event and one Queen's Park Cricket Club insider, who spoke with Global Voices via WhatsApp but preferred not to be named, felt that compromise should have come from both sides.\nAs <PERSON> summed it up:\nIf it wasn't for those big businesses and their sponsorship money there may not have been any cricket\nIn the end, the inclusivity of the Caribbean cricket experience prevailed, leaving enough room for everyone.", "892" ] ]

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[ [ "FOV reduction with Fresnel\nI have a simple optical system that works based on energy collection. (i.e. I have a photo diode that counts photons). I don't do any imaging. For my application, I need to have a specific FOV and I have been trying to build this FOV using off the shelf Fresnel lenses. (my FOV is 200x200mm high at 300mm away from the lens system, I am trying to reflect this to a 2.5x2.5 detector)\nI basically, take an image of my FOV (i.e. assume my FOV is an image) at target distance, I ray trace through three fresnel lenses (F=15, F=15, F=10.2 all same diameter), I position the lenses such that each one is 1 mm away from each other on the same axis.", "791" ], [ "Each one is 2mm thick. The final image of FOV falls on to the detector.\nWhen I measure each lens individually, they all adhere to their spec (ie. focal length), however when I construct my system (really putting one after the other with 1mm gap), I think there is a problem:\n1. The energy collection is not what it is supposed to be (the diameter of the first lens is 10mm, so I expect roughly 10x amplification but I only see around 5)\n2. I take a bright light (white LED) and shine to lens system (at this moment system is in my hand and I am reflecting to a surface) hoping to see a bright image of the source. I do not see the source brightly, if anything it is very weak.\n3. I take out the third lens and use the first two and repeat the bright light experiment and same result, image is brighter compared to three lens but not as bright as a single lens experiment. I assume the loss is about 5% on each surface so this loss on brightness is puzzling.\nNow, does it make sense to do what I am trying to do with Fresnel lenses? Assuming my trace is correct (I am pretty sure it is), where else I should be looking?\nWhat other methods you recommend, I really need a very low cost optical front end to reduce the FOV to detector.", "791" ] ]

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[ [ "Infinity Macro Pad Using Pi Pico\nIntroduction: Infinity Macro Pad Using Pi Pico\nHello DIY makers and coders.... Today I'm presenting my version of a custom Macropad with a Raspberry Pi Pico....\nI named this as \"Infinity Macropad 1.1\"....the project is based on the adafruit Circuit Python and runs HID functionality onboard....\nThis Macropad has\n* 20 individual tactile push buttons\n* 3 Rotary encoders\n* 1 Joystick\n* 1 Ws2812b Status RGB LED\n* Micro usb port\n* Inclined kickstand\nI want to make this project completely open source and share the whole setup with everyone free of cost... And for that purpose I need a good amount of help from people who are expert in circuit python programming... Pls help...\n. So without wasting anyone time..lets get started...\nStep 1: Understanding the Project and Chossing Right Microcontroller\nI wanted to make a macropad.. Which will have enough buttons for almost every programs and applications...\nFow which I decided to include 20 buttons, 3 rotary encoder and a joystick... (these encoders and joystick also have their own push buttons...)\nNow.. For making the project... The most powerful but compact microcontroller was the Raspberry Pi Pico...\nStep 2: The Parts We Are Gonna Need...\nFor making the project... We will need these parts. 👇\nComponents\n* 20 tactile switches...(12*12*12 switches)... I could have gone with cherry mx switches... But they are much pricer\n* 3 rotary encoder modules\n* 1 XY joystick module\n* 1 ws2812b led module\n* 20 4148 switching diodes\n* Raspberry Pi Pico\n* 10 * 10 cm zero pcb\n* 5 screws (3mm thick)\n* My 3d files or your own...\nTools\n* 3d printer\n* Fusion 360 or any other CAD software\n* PLA or favorite plastic roll\n* Spray paint (optional)\n* Some random tools\nStep 3: Preparation of the PCB...\nFirstly print my given template for the PCB board...\nCut it out and carefully allign with the board and stick it...\nAfter that using the guide lines... Cut the PCB board... I used my small coping saw... You can use whatever available...\nAfter the cutting is done.. Carefully place the switches in their places... And mark their location on the board...\nStep 4: Adding the Push Buttons...\nNow with the previously made markings... Place the switches in their corresponding places....\nMake sure the placements are perfect.. Otherwise it will be very hard to rectify it later...\nDouble check their placements...\nNow.. Bend 2 legs of the buttons and solder them on the board... You can solder all 4 legs.. But it will increase the confusion...\nStep 5: Placing the Matrix Diodes...\nWe are making a 4*5 button matrix...", "848" ], [ "And for that purpose... We also need some diodes...\nYou can use normal 4007 diodes... But everyone suggest to use 4148 switching diodes... So.. I'm going with them also...\nThe circuit would be look like this... 👇\nMake sure of the polarities of the diodes and the directions of them...\nIn my project.. I places them in two orders... But the wiring is same... It's just to make them tidy...\nUse thin copper wire.. I used 26 gauge wires.. And connected all the columns together..\nThen the drain of the switches to the diode...\nThe output of the diodes together in series... To form 5 individual rows...\nUse reference pictures for better understanding...\nStep 6: Drill the Mounting Holes...\nI did this step after the wiring is done.. Because I'm obviously a professional dumb...\nYou should do this step before the wiring....\nI dodged the bullet in first chance due to my prior thinking and because it's my design.. But it might be devastating for you...\nSo don't make my mistakes...\nI simply drilled the hole with 4 mm drill bit... And as always I messed up the holes... They were not in right spot..anf not perfect round... So I used my rotary tool with a tungsten carbide bit.. And fixed those issues...\nStep 7: Remove the Header Pins... and Paint the Case...\nIt's the time.. When you should remove the male headers from the rotary encoder modules and the joystick modules...\nAlso it's a good time to add wires to them... So you don't have to do them later...\nAfter the wiring is done... It's time for painting the macropad body...\nThough it's a optional step... You can directly print in your desired colour... But...", "996" ] ]

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[ [ "HLTC Sandwich\nIntroduction: HLTC Sandwich\nThis HLTC Sandwich is really good because of its tasteful twist of toasted butter in a pan. This is a classic, yet unforgettable sandwich.\nStep 1: Ingredients & Supplies\nThe ingredients you will need are:\n- 2 slices bread (I am using whole wheat)\n- Ham (As much as you'd like)\n- 1 slice of American Cheese\n- 1 tbsp of butter - 1 tomato\n- Fresh ripped lettuce\n- Condiments (I an using mayo)\nSupplies:\n- 1 cutting board\n- 1 butter knife\n-1 kitchen knife\n- A pan\n- A plate\nStep 2: Working Space\nGather all of your supplies and ingredients into a working space in your kitchen (Preferably next to the stove) Make sure your pan is already set in the stove counter for the next step.\nStep 3: Heat Up\nNext, turn on your stove into Medium-Low. Let the pan heat up for 3-5 minutes.\nStep 4: Butter\nUsing your kitchen knife, cut out a small piece of butter to put in your pan.\nStep 5: Butter Up\nThen, using the piece of butter you just cut with your kitchen knife, add your ingredient into your hot pan and let it melt. As soon as it melts, spread it all around your pan just like the second picture.\nStep 6: Mayo\nIn this step, get one piece of bread and using your butter knife, spread as much mayo as you'd like onto one side of your bread. Save this bread for later.\nStep 7: The Other Bread\nGet your second piece of bread and lay one side of it onto the butter'ed pan.\nStep 8: Cheese\nNext, get your single slice of American Cheese (or as much as you'd like) and lay it over on top of the slice of bread you just put onto the butter'ed pan. It should look like the picture.\nStep 9: Toasting\nDo you remember the bread with mayo that you saved up for later? Well this is the moment to take it out and lay it down onto the pan next to your American-Cheese-Bread. Make sure the mayo side is looking up.\nLet these pieces of bread toast.\nStep 10: Ham\nAs your breads are toasting, this is the perfect time to get your ham and lay it over your American-Cheese-Bread.", "808" ], [ "You can put as much ham as you want; but your breads should start looking like this.\nLeave both of these breads toast as you do the next step. Keep a close eye out on your pan in case if you see the breads toast too much.\nStep 11: Slicing\nFor this part, you must get your cutting board, kitchen knife, and tomato. Prepare everything on top of a clear counter.\nStep 12: Chopping and Placing\nCut your tomato into slices just like the picture above; and start taking out your pieces of bread onto your cutting board. They should be slightly or fully toasted.\nStep 13: Getting Messy\nNow, on the bread the has the most ingredients, place your desired amount of tomatoes onto it. Make sure they are centered so they don't fall out your sandwich.\nStep 14: The Lettuce\nFor this step, you must now finally get your lettuce to place it on top of the tomatoes. As I have said before, use your desired amount of lettuce for this part.\nStep 15: Putting Everything Together\nFinally, for the part we have all been waiting for, get your Mayo-bread and place it on top of the lettuce. Make sure the toasted side is looking up.\nAnd... YOU ARE DONE!\nStep 16: SANDWICH\nThis is what your sandwich should look like!\nCONGRATS, you have accomplished making an HLTC sandwich :)", "808" ] ]

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[ [ "No, the tsunami was not caused by the idol which was thrown into sea in the 12th century. The butterfly effect here means everything is connected. That incident is not the cause of the tsunami. But the incident of throwing the idol has connection with the Tsunami occurring in 2004.\nButterfly effect is defined as:\nIn chaos theory, the butterfly effect is the sensitive dependence on initial conditions in which a small change in one state of a deterministic nonlinear system can result in large differences in a later state.\nWikipedia\nExplaining what is Butterfly effect in the movie is lengthy. For that we should know entire movie plot along with characters. Writing that here would make answer too much lengthy. But here's the Butterfly effect briefly.\nThe movie starts with Tsunami relief programmes and Bio-scientist <PERSON> speaking about butterfly effect and chaos effect. To explain what happened, he goes to 12th century and the history of the Perumal idol placed on dais. He explains the history of what happened in the past.\n<PERSON> played 10 different roles in the movie. Every character is not related in any way. But due to course of events, each character affects the events and different characters meet some or the other way.\nIn his journey to save the vial from terrorist groups, Dr.<PERSON> meets different people who are unrelated but their small actions knowingly or unknowingly drive the plot and lead to the day Tsunami occured.\nSurprisingly, some parts of the movie and the end of the movie also relate something to 12th century. It's shown that Tsunami has occurred to save people and decreased the affect of the vial by great margin. It also shown that God had helped different characters in different ways which took place in the course of Tsunami.\n* The Govindarajaswamy idol is submerged into the sea in 12th century. The processional deity (utsavar which is referred to as Perumal) plays a major role in the film and shown in the beginning of the film on the dais.\n* <PERSON>'s colleague <PERSON>'s wife <PERSON> is killed by <PERSON>.", "829" ], [ "Her death is avenged by her brother <PERSON>. He comes to India to kill <PERSON>. But <PERSON> kills himself by swallowing the vial. After the relief, he leaves a necklace as a remembrance of his sister.\n* The Muslim family and people gets saved from the Tsunami when they take shelter in the mosque.\n* <PERSON>, the pop singer gets cured of his throat cancer by a bullet fire by <PERSON>.\n* <PERSON>, social activist works for the eradication of sand mafia at a place where final rites of <PERSON> from twelfth century were done before throwing into the sea. <PERSON>'s wife is dead there and her sacred thread is also shown. After the Tsunami, <PERSON> thinks <PERSON> is her dead son and lament for him. In this way, the deep sorrow for her son accumulated in her heart is removed.\n* <PERSON>: The 43rd U. S. President is also a character in this film because the initiative was taken by the U.S government to create a weapon without knowing its potential. Later he visits India and congratulates Dr.<PERSON> for stopping the mass destruction.\n* After relief, <PERSON> argues that god had sent forth the tsunami to get rid of the weapon. <PERSON> responds by asking if god would destroy hundreds of lives to save millions. Then, they are later revealed to have been talking in front of the idol submerged in the 12th century. So, it came to the place where all it has started. Hence we are shown that everything is related - which is the concept of Butterfly effect.\nTo symbolize the butterfly effect, a butterfly flapping its wings and traveling from one place to others where characters are standing is shown in the end. But for better understanding of what is the butterfly effect and how the action of one character affects another (or mainly Dr.<PERSON> because he is the protagonist), we have to watch the film.", "829" ] ]

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[ [ "I’m at a loss right now on potty training\nThe dog is a 8 month old Great Pyrenees names <PERSON>. I’ve had her almost a month a half and she uses the bathroom outside and doesn’t have my accidents for a week then after she was let out 2 hours earlier she crapped and peed on the floor. I have never had a dog have accidents like this before maybe once after we got it potty trained for my previous once’s. But this happens to frequently I’m not sure what the problem is.", "881" ], [ "I’ve been doing all the things I was told to reward her when she goes outside take her on a set schedule But it’s not working. She even has another dog there a 6 year old Great Dane that goes outside with her. The next step I see is having her in a kennel the entire night and when everyone leaves the house. I don’t want to it seems cruel to me not letting her have freedom in the house but I don’t know another solution. And taking her back to the shelter is worse then her being in a kennel I believe.", "822" ] ]

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[ [ "You will hit one important limitation - language evolves.\nYou are adding concepts that didn't exist before, relative importance of words changes as world evolves, words get additional meaning because they are now found related to other concepts or because of slang etc etc.\nAssume you have a perfect language with whatever conditions you want. Each written letter is one sound and everything is encoded in minimum number of bits, or it is simple to link tons of words in a long word meaning the combination, or whatever other conditions you want - check other answers for many ideas. As perfect with all the conditions you want, at that particular point in time (introduction of the language). Now assume that language started at say 1850-ish (spring of nations in Europe).\nBack then, horses were pretty important - they work fields, transport people, people race them etc etc, so it is one of those crucial words you are surely basing tons of concepts on. Engine gets named \"black water mechanical horse\" because what else would it be - it replaces horses to transport people around and uses black water to run. In line with previous namings, processor gets named \"electrical horse brain\" because the word \"horse\" evolved to the point to mean \"something that does work for humans\". Come late 20th century and a mostly irrelevant animal is all over the place in gazillion of concepts, making all those concepts longer than needed and fairly confusing too.\nDo you feel it is still somewhat manageable? Note this is mere 100-200 years.", "634" ], [ "Jump back to first written languages and the evolved language would be more or less \"spam egg spam spam bacon spam\".\nNow, how do you tackle that? 1. Let language constantly evolve? Congrats, you are back to our current languages. 2. Keep your ancient language? But it is no longer \"perfect\" in any reasonable sense and would fare worse than any imperfect language that is allowed to evolve - it poorly links all the modern concepts together, it isn't compact etc etc. 3. Clean break every now and then? Language gets \"re-optimized\" every say 100 years. It gets increasingly less optimal towards the end of the time, and comes with a lot of confusion during transition period, but it is most likely the only viable solution.", "350" ] ]

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[ [ "As far as the canon goes, I found four relevant examples, listed in 'in-universe' chronological order:\n1) In the Attack of the Clones movie, when Count <PERSON> has <PERSON> trapped on Geonosis, he tries to lure <PERSON> into helping him overthrow <PERSON>:\n<PERSON>: What if I told you that the Republic was now under the control of the Dark Lord of the Sith?\n<PERSON><PERSON><PERSON>: No, that's not possible. The Jedi would be aware of it.\n<PERSON>: The dark side of the Force has clouded their vision, my friend. Hundreds of senators are now under the influence of a Sith lord called <PERSON>.\n<PERSON>: I don't believe you.\n<PERSON>: The viceroy of the Trade Federation was once in league with this Darth Sidious but he was betrayed ten years ago by the dark lord. He came to me for help. He told me everything. You must join me, <PERSON>, and together we will destroy the Sith!\nThough there is some debate as to whether or not he was sincere in this request, see http://scifi.stackexchange.com/questions/74249/why-did-dooku-reveal-the-truth-to-obi-wan-on-geonosis\n2) <PERSON> ordering Count <PERSON> to kill his assassin/apprentice, <PERSON>, in TCW 3x12:\nSidious: Lord <PERSON>.\n<PERSON>: My master.\nS: There is a disturbance in the force.", "605" ], [ "Your assassin, she has become very powerful.\nD: Yes, my lord. She is quite important to me.\nS: Too important. I can sense her powers growing stronger. I would hate to think you are training your own sith apprentice to destroy me.\nD: Never. My allegiance is to you and you alone.\nS: Then you must prove it. Eliminate her.\nD: She's my most trusted ...\nS: I said eliminate her!\nD: As you wish, my lord.\n3) The part mentioned by ncalmbeblpaicr0011 in TCW 3x13, taken with a grain of salt considering that <PERSON> had just ordered <PERSON> to get rid of his previous apprentice, and there wasn't anything further mentioned in TCW about <PERSON> trying to overthrow <PERSON>.\n4) In the novelisation of Return of the Sith, by <PERSON>, you can find excerpts referenced in http://scifi.stackexchange.com/questions/5922/what-was-dookus-plan-for-the-battle-of-coruscant which discuss <PERSON>'s frame of mind towards <PERSON> at that point.", "605" ] ]

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[ [ "As @AlexP calculated, the atmosphere needs to be replenished with Radon at 1.25e16 kg/day = 1.45e11 kg/s. Let's have a look at all the numbers.\nThe planet's surface area is around 5.11e14 m^2; for most quantities, it makes sense to consider them per square meter of surface area.\nAt 1.3 atm pressure, Radon gas has a volume of ~ 7.9e-2 m^3/kg, giving a replenishment rate of 1.15e10 m^3/s; each square meter needs to vent 22 milliliters of Radon gas per second.\nThe decay chain of Radon-222 involves many tasty heavy metals and eventually ends in Lead-206, which will accumulate at 1.34e11 kg/s, or 2.63e-4 kg/s per m^2; lead dust will sediment at 2.31e-8 m/s = 2 mm/day or 0.73 m/year.\nThe decay chain starts at U-238, which has a half-life time of 4.5 billion years. To produce 1.45e11 kg/s of Radon-222 would require 3.16e28 kg of U-238 -- 3.1e4 times the mass of your planet, so... U-238 cannot be the origin of the Radon.\nThe next-longest-lived element of the decay chain is U-234 with a half-life time of 245k years, you'd need 1.70e24 kg of that -- still heavier than the planet.\nThe next option is Thorium-230, with a half-life time of 75k years. We'd need just 5.14e23 kg of it, or 51 % of the mass of the planet. As a bonus, its density is around 1.17e4 kg/m^3, very close to the density of the planet. Of course, this means that the planet must be very young - at most 75k years old, and its radon production will greatly reduce in the next tens of thousands of years.\nFinally, decay heat. Over the entire decay chain from Th-230 to Pb-206, a fraction of 1.87e-4 of the mass is released as energy. Some of that will be carried away by neutrinos, but must will heat the planet (inside or in the atmosphere).\nThis is a mass-energy conversion rate of 2.81e7 kg/s or 2.52e24 W, or 0.66 % the power output of the sun.", "921" ], [ "Per area, it's 4.93e9 W/m^2. Earth provides around 8.2e-2 W/m^2.\nAssuming a perfect black body, this means the surface temperature of your planet is 1.72e4 K (T^4 ~ P/A). Of course, this means that the planet will be made entirely of plasma, and evaporate quickly, so unfortunately your idea looks impossible.\nHowever, Radon is a very heavy gas, heavy enough not to mix with the atmosphere too much. On Earth, it likes to accumulate in basements. Conceivably, if your planet has no wind for some reason, Radon might accumulate in the very lowest layers of the atmosphere, maybe just in the lowest 2 meters. If you limited yourself to that, you'd need much less radon, which would mean less heat, less accumulation of lead dust and fewer geothermal vents. Just scale all of the numbers down accordingly - except for temperature. Due to <PERSON>'s law, if you reduce the amount of radon 10000x, you can only reduce temperature 10x.\nIf you're happy with a still-extremely-deadly* 1 ppm of Radon instead of 8.3%, and just confined to the lowest 1/1000th (by mass) of the atmosphere, your planet will be somewhere around room temperature. You could even go for the longer-lived U-238 as source material. You should move the planet well away from the parent star to avoid any extra heating.\n*) 1 ppm of Radon at 1.3 atm has an activity of 1.94 Ci/L, a comfortable 4.9e11 times the EPA action limit.\nIf you really want a radioactive gas that makes up a single-digit percentage of the atmosphere, may I interest you in some other gasses, like H-3? Kr-81? Ar-39?\nI also hear that Unobtainium, a recently-discovered element in the Island of stability, has a density and half-life similar to that of U-238 while decaying directly into a gas that has properties that happen to be exactly right for your story.", "921" ] ]

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[ [ "In my opinion, <PERSON> is the same person he was when he lost his body the first time round.\nFor one, <PERSON> looked cosmetically like he did before, haunting <PERSON> dreams the way <PERSON> remembered him to look. You can gather from this that he looked the same as when he fell, when he was a human who was missing pieces of his soul.\nThe thin man stepped out of the cauldron, staring at <PERSON> . . . and <PERSON> stared back into the face that had haunted his nightmares for three years. Whiter than a skull, with wide, livid scarlet eyes and a nose that was flat as a snakes with slits for nostrils . . .", "417" ], [ "-GoF\nAdditionally, Ministry of Magic employees recognise him at the end of book 5, meaning he looks the same, and talks the same as before he was resurrected.\n\"I saw him, Mr. <PERSON>, I swear it was <PERSON>, he grabbed a woman and Disapparated!\" \"I know, <PERSON>, I know, I saw him too!\" gibbered Fudge -OoTP\nEssentially killing someone in the HP universe means destroying the body of a soul. As <PERSON> had split his soul, he would not be able to successfully/peacefully enter the afterlife like <PERSON> did once his soul had no more bodies/containers left in this world.\nThe fragment of soul inside it depends on its container, its enchanted body, for survival. It can’t exist without it.\" -DH\nKilling <PERSON> after he has no more horcruxes would be the same as killing any other wizard, he could get maimed by a dagger (grey lady death), bleed out (when <PERSON> got splinched, he was losing blood and consciousness, which would lead to death), have his throat split (the original owner of the elder wand) or killed by any other methods that could hurt any regular human.\nIt's just worth noting that skilled wizards can heal injuries in ways we cannot imagine. Perhaps a gunshot wound could be healed by accio'ing out the bullet, blood replenishing potions, and a number of healing charms. Remember how <PERSON> essentially gave <PERSON> another hand after he cut it off with a dagger, which was painful and would have lead to him bleeding out.\nPlus, you wouldn't need magic to kill, wizards are more than aware of guns, just not the science behind them. They know they can kill people, but just as muggles are ignorant of wizarding ways, wizards are ignorant of muggle ways. They don't use them because they have no need to.\nWhile Muggles have been told that <PERSON> is carrying a gun (a kind of metal wand that Muggles use to kill each other) - POA", "773" ] ]

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[ [ "aside: The water pipe analogy is actually quite accurate, but most high school students don't learn fluid dynamics and the heavy calculus makes it more trouble than it's worth. (If you treat volumetric flow rate as akin to current, and pressure as electric flux density, then using <PERSON>'s equation neglecting gravity, assuming constant area and velocity along a pipe/wire, it all works out).\nvoltage\nWe have a device that can measure \"voltage\" between two points (not just in a circuit but in the air, on the ground, wherever you place the terminals).\nThe first thing is that if we measure the \"voltage\" between A and B, and then between A and C, the voltage between B and C will be the difference between these two—if you freeze time, at least. So this means you can pick whatever reference point you like, then any other point in the universe has a certain electric potential (measured in volts) relative to the reference point. So, there is something in the fabric of space that can be \"stronger\" or \"weaker\" than other parts of space. This is what we call the \"electric field\".\nNote that this is not about electrons. It is possible to have a positively charged plate and a negatively charged plate and a total vacuum in between, but this vacuum will linearly transition from one potential to another. (I.e. the voltage across the left half equals the voltage across the right half.)\nIn a simple electric circuit, each point has a fixed voltage (usually measured relative to \"ground\"). Any loop through the circuit will involve exactly the same amount of \"going up\" as \"going down\".\ncurrent and resistance\nCurrent and resistance are probably more intuitive in the context of electric circuits.", "395" ], [ "Current is roughly speaking a count of how many electrons pass through an area (e.g. the cross-section area of a wire or resistor) per unit time. Resistance is how many volts will produce 1 amp of current flowing \"across a resistor\". Technically this means measuring the voltage between both ends of the resistor, and the current at some cross-section anywhere before, in, or after the resistor. The current will be effectively the same anywhere you you section (not beyond branches in wires of course).\n(Obviously we also have devices that can measure current and resistance; I made a point about measuring voltage because electric fields are the hardest thing to grasp.)\nmore on current and resistance\nWhen electrons are free to flow, they are driven to equalise electric fields. The stronger the field, the more electrons will flow. However, different materials will resist electron flow to different degrees, hence differences in resistance (or rather resistivity). And electrons can be forced to flow the other way—batteries use chemical reactions, and generators use electromagnetism.\nOne way to see how current is proportional to surface area is this: assume you have 1A traveling along a wire, and you have 1A travelling down another wire, that's 2 coulombs per second. If you squash the two wires into one, the surface area will double and you will still have the same number of coulombs per second — 2.", "395" ] ]

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[ [ "Should I get my 12 yo dog fixed?\nHi all, I have a unaltered 12yo <PERSON>.\nHe came into my care about a year ago, and has been one of the most amazing dogs I've had the pleasure of interacting with. He does great with other dogs despite not being fixed. I've of course kept his socialization limited to that of close friends dogs who are fixed and he does perfectly fine with them.\nI have been getting pressure to get him fixed though, from some friends saying he'll be better off in the long run.", "1011" ], [ "I can't really justify it though. He doesn't exhibit any of the negative behaviors or health issues that typically come from being unaltered. I take him to the vet for checkups every three months and he's in good health aside from some cataracts (which is to be expected for his age.) It just doesn't really seem worth it to deal with the worries of anesthesia and the healing process considering his age.\nAm I in the wrong here?", "961" ] ]

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[ [ "Why is my cousins dog so aggressive?\nHello! This is my cousins dog, named ‘Chiweenie Brains’ and every time I babysit ‘Chiweenie Brains’ he ALWAYS attacks me and in a lot of occasions he bites and tears apart my cloth! my cousin always says “he is just playing” or he is “bored” even though him ‘playing’ is a horrible exuse since he bites me all over my body and gets me to bleed sometimes. What do I do in this situation? Any advice?\nhttps://preview.redd.it/dnqhf5det8la1.png?width=2160&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=ebdc2fbb5688a4a7ddb2c2cd27883cc7a8ade12e\nhttps://preview.redd.it/9mvg05det8la1.png?width=2160&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=d7dae27f328c4486f3dd3a82be8db67427d633a8", "210" ] ]

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[ [ "Wonka\nIt feels just a little hypocritical for a studio like Warner Bros. Pictures to make an anticapitalist feel-good holiday family confection, but <PERSON> direction shines through in Wonka's best moments.", "252" ], [ "There is a version of this film that goes all-out on the old Hollywood musical filmmaking style, with more memorable songs, better-done practical visual effects, and a more well-cast, magnetic central performer – but <PERSON> wisely relies on his screen charisma, and his sheer bravery to commit to such a role, to carry him through some forgettable tunes and numbers (a chocolate-making montage is definitely the film's most fun). <PERSON> is still able to wrap things up nicely towards the end in unexpectedly moving ways, with sincerity as his secret weapon. That scene at the fountain did make me cry, so while the filmmaking on display in Wonka may be flawed, its heart is definitely in the right place, and should provide a healthy dose of optimism to any family going out to the movies during the Christmas season.", "529" ] ]

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[ [ "The Hindi title \"विध्वंस\" (transliterated as \"Vidhwans\") means \"catastrophe\" or \"destruction\". I am not too familiar with Urdu, but Google Translate says that \"Tahreek-e Khair\" means something like \"good step\", as in, a \"step in the right direction\", which is reasonably close in meaning to the title \"A Positive Change\" given in the Penguin Books collection.\nThe reason the short story has titles with drastically different meanings in Urdu and Hindi is that the Urdu version is not merely a translation of the Hindi version. Instead, it takes a completely different turn in the climax, in a way that justifies the different titles.\nIt is the Hindi version that has been translated into English on The Fresh Reads website linked in your post. At the end of the story, not only does <PERSON> die from throwing herself into the fire, the winds spread the flames all over the village and burn down the zamindar's mansion. Catastrophe has fallen upon the villagers with <PERSON>'s death, and especially upon the zamindar who gave her so much grief.\nIn the Urdu version, the consequences of <PERSON> jumping into the fire are dramatically altered. Here, the zamindar instinctively jumps in to pull <PERSON> out, at great risk to himself.", "829" ], [ "He manages to save her life, and he even nurses her back to health in his mansion. When <PERSON> asks him why he risked his life for an old woman such as herself, he answers:\n[...] I didn't care what I was doing and why. It was as though I had lost my senses. Everything happened on its own. God wanted to save me from disgrace. What else?\nTaken from the Urdu translation by <PERSON>, published in Premchand: the complete short stories, vol. 2, Penguin Books, 2017.\nIn this version, the zamindar seems to have had a genuine change of heart through <PERSON>'s impulsive decision to jump into the fire; hence, the title \"A Positive Change\".\nSo, in this case the difference in the titles is not due to any subtle differences between the two languages, but in the changes made to the story itself.", "417" ] ]

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[ [ "How to Make a Wood Carved Clock\nIntroduction: How to Make a Wood Carved Clock\nIn this Instructable I will be making a wood carved clock, with a wood spirit's (also known as an old man of the woods) face.\nSome wood carving terminology I will be using:\nA Carving burr - This is the bit that goes in the end of your rotary tool, that actually carves away the wood. There are lots of different brands, but I recommend Kutzall burrs.\nFeathering away - This means if you have cut a valley in the wood, you smooth out the transition from the valley to flat wood.\nIn the first steps I kept the carving as one large log, but if you want to cut a slab to carve straight away, skip to step 6, and then back to step 1.\nSupplies\nTools:\n* A rotary tool, sometimes known as a Dremel.\n* Carving bits/burrs.\n* A drill and drill bit.\n* Orbital sander (optional, but makes sanding much faster), or sandpaper.\nOther supplies:\n* A log or piece of wood.\n* A pencil or pen.\n* Clock module - these can be purchased off an online website like Amazon or e-bay.\n* Epoxy (this is optional, but can be useful for filling cracks).\n* Varnish (this is optional, but it makes the finished carving look much more glossy).\nStep 1: Selecting a Log\nThere will probably be lots of spare wood around you if you or someone you know has a firewood store, or you could carve a piece of store bought wood if you wanted.\nI selected a log that was fairly circular and was a relatively soft type of wood.\nI sanded the top of the log down a bit with an orbital sander, this is an optional step, but makes drawing on the design easier.\nStep 2: Drawing the Base Design\nFirst mark the approximate centre of the log, and then find the direct line across the log that splits the log into two equal parts, or as near as possible to it. This means that the face will not look lop-sided due to the shape of the log.\nMark the place you want your mouth to be, which is where the clock will be coming out of, and place the centre of the clock over this spot. Draw around the outside of the clock module, this is the area that will be recessed out from behind, so you will not be able to carve too deep in this area, or else you will penetrate through and create a hole.\nDraw a line where the eyebrows will go, the eyes will be underneath this line.\nNext draw a line where the base of the nose will be, in the next step we will draw the nose.\nThe eyes will be drawn on later, when the rest of the carving is started, to make it easier to plan out what the eyes are going to look like relative to the whole face.\nStep 3: Drawing the Moustache and Nose\nDraw the outside of the nose by drawing diagonal lines to create two triangles, one on each side of the nose.", "431" ], [ "Now do the same thing but upside down, joining the lines up with other ones.\nFor the moustache, draw two sweeping lines, starting from the bottom of the nose and the top of the mouth and joining them up further down the face to create a moustache. Repeat this process for the other side and tweak the lines and change them until they look even. This is why you draw the lines with a pencil, to allow for changes.\nIf you cannot get the moustache to look even, you can trace one half like I did. If you draw one half of the moustache, it is fairly simple to trace it on to the other half, and bear in mind that you can adjust the moustache while you are carving.\nStep 4: Carving the Outline of the Eyes and Nose\nTo carve the outline of the eyes and nose you carve around the outside of the lines we drew for the nose and carve below the line that we drew for the eyebrows.\nAt the moment you are just carving a valley in the wood, you can take a few passes to get the depth right if you need to, gradually getting deeper and deeper into the wood.\nThe next step is to 'feather away' the wood, by holding the carving burr at an angle to the wood, this will smooth out the transition from the valley to flat wood.\nFeather away the wood that is on the outside of the valley you just carved, this will raise the nose out of the face and carve the eyes deeper.\nStep 5: Carving the Outline of the Moustache\nTo carve the outline of the moustache you repeat the steps for the eyes and nose.", "36" ] ]

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[ [ "Okay, I think I am satisfied that the \"partial answer\" I included in the question is the correct answer. The proof of the WW theorem involves matrix elements of the form $$\\langle p|T^{\\mu\\nu}(x)|p'\\rangle, $$ where $|p\\rangle$ is a momentum eigenstate of the spin-2 particle and $p,p'$ are two nearly equal null momenta. The proof relies on this matrix element being nonzero, while it does equal zero for my case of two collinear photons. The operator $T^{\\mu\\nu}$ cannot change the momenta of two different photons, because it is only quadratic in the photon field $A^\\mu$.", "298" ], [ "Therefore the proof does not apply, and such states can of course exist.\nThe reason I was dissatisfied with the answer, and called it only \"partial\", was that I didn't understand why we should be so confident that the above matrix element does not vanish when $|p\\rangle$ is a single-particle state such as an \"emergent graviton\" that is a bound state of other fields. If it can vanish when the underlying particles are not bound, then how do we know that creating a bound state will change things?\nNow I think I get it: the condition $\\langle p|T^{\\mu\\nu}(x)|p'\\rangle\\ne0 $ is basically an intuitive physical requirement. It means that if (hypothetically) there was a an interaction of the form $T^{\\mu\\nu}h_{\\mu\\nu}$ (and of course there is such an interaction, namely gravity, but we do not require this), then a background field $h_{\\mu\\nu}$ with a small gradient could cause slightly changes in the momentum of our particle, making it move along a curved trajectory. This can be taken as a reasonable definition of what is meant by the particle being \"charged under $T^{\\mu\\nu}$\", and this is what is required for the WW theorem to apply.\nThis behavior is also pretty close to what we mean by a state being \"bound\", namely that the different components maintain a shared trajectory when \"pushed around\" by mild forces. But it does not describe particles that just happen to be collinear; in that case the force will tend to spread the trajectories slightly apart.", "298" ] ]

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[ [ "Flat Foldable Paper Lamp\nIntroduction: Flat Foldable Paper Lamp\nFor a long time i have wanted to make a paper lamp. When one of my teachers showed me Instructibles and that there was a contest for making something out of paper, I finally got the motivation to sit down and make a proper lamp design. I found some cheap flexible LED lights and used thick paper so that the lamp wouldn’t be too strong. My goal was to create a decent sized mood light for my bedroom. I ended up with this design which i am quite happy about.\nThis is the first time i make an instructables. If there are any steps that are unclear, please let me know and i will try to clearify.\nSupplies\nTools needed:\n* Cutting mat, preferably one with 30- and 60-degree angles marked, if not you will need a protractor.\n* Steel ruler, for cutting along.\n* Plastic ruler, for creasing along.\n* Craft knife.\n* Some tool to crease the paper with.\n* ~160-220g A3 paper. (The LED lights i used where quite strong so 220g paper worked for me). I use 8 pieces in my lamp, but you can make it taller or shorter by adding or removing 2 pieces of paper.\n* Double sided tape. Glue works, but i strongly recommend tape.\n* Pencil and eraser.\n* Pencil compass.\n* Flexible LED strip or any other light source you'd like. I used a 3-meter strip of flexible LED lights.\nStep 1: Cutting the Paper Into Shape\nThe first step is to cut the paper into a parallelogram. If you have a cutting mat with a 30-degree line on it, place the paper into the corner and cut along the line. Turn the paper 180 degrees and repeat. For my lamp I made 6 pieces like this.\nStep 2: Dividing the Paper\nNext up is dividing the paper into 4 sections along the longest side.", "294" ], [ "3 of the sections need to be the same size and the last one is for glueing the papers togheter. For the A3 paper i used, i made a mark at 11 cm intervals, leaving a bit more than 1 cm for tape. I then marked on the other side and drew connecting lines.\nThe drawn lines where only creased in the actual lamp. If you choose to mark the lines with a pencil, there may be marks showing when done if you put a lightsource inside.\nStep 3: Making the Diagonal Screases\nNext up is creasing the diagonal lines. If you’re using a mat with angles marked, just place the paper in the corner and crease along the 30-degree line.\nYou will see that the diagonal creases cross the creases from the previous step. Crease lines along these connecting points. You will want to end up with a piece similar to the last picture in this step.\nStep 4: Finishing the Units\nThe green area is where tape or glue should be applied.\nFor all the pieces i cut off this small corner part. This is optional, but makes connecting the units\nFor 2 the 2 top units i cut away the long part for tape or glue. Since they won't be connected to any more units above, this part is unnecessary.\nThe red lines indicate where to make a mountain fold and the blue lines are valley folds. Fold these lines before connecting all the units togheter.\nMake 6 units. You could make more or less, but i recommend at least 4 units.\nStep 5: Connecting the Units\nAfter folding all the units, it is time to connect them. Make sure that the finished connected paper has exactly 6 horizontal sections pluss the one for glue.\nTape or glue so that the flaps are hidden inside the lamp for a clean look.\nTake your time and make sure the creases align.\nStep 6: The Hard Part\nWhen you have finished connecting all the units, it is time to make the collapsable cylinder.\nI higly recommend testing how it will connect before applying glue or tape. It is impossible to connect it without collapsing it a bit.\nI split the tape into segments so i can glue a bit at the time.\nTake your time and make sure that the edges align properly and the paper doesnt tear.\nThe video shows how the body should be able to be flat folded.\nStep 7: Add Light\nThe flexible LED strip I bought had tape in the back side, so it was easy to just attach on the inside. I worked in a spiral pattern, constantly making sure that I did not prevent the lamp from being flat foldable with the tape.\nStep 8: Making the Top and Bottom\nTo make the top and bottom, take the lengt of one segment from step 2 and use a pencil compass to create a circle with that lenght in radius.", "6" ] ]

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[ [ "Upcycled RetroPhone Lamp\nIntroduction: Upcycled RetroPhone Lamp\nI've found an old phone on a flea market the other day and decided to build a lamp out of it. It turned out pretty nicely so I want to share the process with you. Please be careful with all the tools, do not mess with electricity unless you know the safety measures and realize the dangers.\nSupplies\n* Old phone\n* Goose neck (Microphone extension)\n* LED Lamp (5cmø 5w 230v 3300K Warm-White in my case)\n* 230v cord + EU plug\n* 230v Switch + 230v luster terminal\n* Duct tape, double-sided tape\n* nice to have : glue gun, pliers, wire stripper, drill, compasses, zip ties, cutter\nStep 1: Put on Your Safety Glasses\nBetter be safe than sorry! Besides, they look cool. At least, I hope so.\nStep 2: Disassemble the Phone and the Handset\nRemove the screws from the base panel, unplug the cables.\nUnscrew the covers of the speaker and the microphone, remove the magnets.\nStep 3: Drill the Hole for the Gooseneck\nStep 4: Prepare the Hole for the LED\nMy LED has a diameter of 5cm and it fits perfectly into the speaker of the handset. Note that the speaker and the mic covers are exchangeable and since the mic cover has a bigger perforated area, it is easier to cut a hole in there.\n* Take a compasses and set it at around 2,3cm, set the dull end into the center hole of the mic cover and scratch a circle into the plastic\n* Repeat the first step with the backside of the cover (remove the rubbery part, but do not throw it away!)\n* Deepen the circle scratch with a cutter\n* Drill the holes with a 10mm bit\n* Cut out the plastic with a wire cutter\n* Break out the rest of the plastic - if the circle scratch has been done properly, the plastic will break neatly\n* Clean up the edge with a cutter and a sandpaper\nStep 5: Put the LED in Place\nStep 6: Prepare the Wiring\n* Double the length of your gooseneck to get the right length of the power cable.", "98" ], [ "In my case it's 2 x 20 cm = 40 cm. The inner diameter of the gooseneck is only 4,8mm so it's a tight fit for the cable - I decided to take off the black cover and only put the blue and brown cables.\n* Strip the wires from both ends for about 5mm\nStep 7: Put the Wires Through the Gooseneck and Into the Handset\nThe original hole for the phone cable was a bit tight, so I had to drill through with an 8mm bit.\n* OPTIONAL - Drill a second hole below the main one. This will come in handy if you'd like to wrap the original black wire around the gooseneck like I did.\n* Secure the gooseneck both in the handset and in the base with nuts.\nStep 8: Secure the Wires With a Terminal\nThen close the cover\nStep 9: Drill a Hole for the Switch in the Base\nMy switch has a 10mm neck = 10mm bit works great\nIn my opinion, this switch looks best on the right front corner, but it really doesn't matter where you put it - just make sure the cables are long enough to reach it. I learned it the hard way ;)\nStep 10: Wire the Switch\nI usually put the brown wires into the switch and connect the blue cables with a terminal\nStep 11: Check on the Chicken - You Are Hungry and Don't Want to Burn It!\nLooks good. Back to work.\nStep 12: Test Drive\nIt works!\nStep 13: Dirty Harry\nLoad the glue gun and secure all the connections, wires, nuts, etc.\nStep 14: Almost There!\nStep 15: Optional - Wrap the Gooseneck With the Cable\nI like the look of the black phone cable more than the shiny metallic gooseneck, so I put a layer of black duct tape on the metal and then apply the double-sided tape on it. Then I tightly wrap the original black phone cable around the gooseneck.\nI also realized that the white of the switch did not fit into the color scheme and painted it black.\nStep 16: YAY!\nWell done: less plastic went into the landfills and now I have a cool lamp!\nIf you liked the build, let me know in the comments :)\nIf you feel a bit too lazy to make one of these, you can get a lamp like this from my shop.\nSupport and feedback will be appreciated ;)\nhttps://www.etsy.", "996" ] ]

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[ [ "A Tribute to Yemeni Cuisine: Culinary Traditions in Ramadan · Global Voices\n<PERSON> one of Yemen's top food in Ramadan – CC Yemeniah Blog\nYemen is ”one step” from famine, pleads UN Special Envoy for Yemen <PERSON>, who notes that ”21 million people are in need of humanitarian assistance” due to the current conflict in the country. These are frightening figures when considering that the total population of Yemen is 24 million.\nA truce is being discussed during the holy month of Ramadan or what is left of it, to allow the 99-percent Muslim country to at least fast in peace. Ramadan is the ninth month in the Islamic calendar, during which Muslims fast in commemoration of when their holy book, the Quran, was first revealed to Prophet <PERSON>.\nBut long before the crisis and the conflict-hit the country, Yemenis used to enjoy Ramadan nights. The country was also famous for its cuisine, and this post is a tribute to the culinary traditions of Yemen during Ramadan. What is also interesting is that every city in Yemen has its own specialties even for Ramadan. So if you one day get the chance to be invited to an Iftar (fast-breaking meal) by someone originally from Aden, it might differ from if you were on a table prepared by someone from Sanaa and so on.\nLike many other Muslims, Yemenis first break their fast in the evening by eating dates, which have been known historically for helping people in the desert sustain long hot days as they are rich in calcium, phosphorus, iron, sodium, sulfur and chloride and various vitamins.\nThe dates are followed by soup and salad, and then the main meal. <PERSON> or Yemeniyah has a section dedicated only to Ramadan recipes on her food blog.\nThere, for instance, we can learn how to cook a shurbah baydah, literally meaning white soup or the Adeni oatmeal soup in reference to the city of Aden.\nWhile in the Yemeni capital Sana'a this soup is sweet, the <PERSON> variation is rather salty with curry and oatmeal. Copyrights reserved to Yemeniyah Blog\nShe says:\nThis is a staple during Ramadan. Very hearty soup, that is a meal in and of itself. In Sana’a they make it sweet and they add milk. But in Aden ours is very different and we make it either plain which we call Shurbah Baydha which literally means “White Soup” or we add a red sauce to it that we make with onions, tomatoes and spices and hence call it Shurbah Hamra meaning “Red Soup”.\nYou will need:\n1) 1/2 pound of lamb cut into small pieces with bone in [you can also use chicken which will cut down the cooking time]\n2) 2 cups of rolled oats [or you can use Old Fashioned Quaker Oats]\n3) 3 sticks of cinnamon\n4) 1/2 tblsp of peppercorns\n5) 1/2 tsp of curry powder\n6) 1/2 of a medium onion finely chopped\n7) 1 small tomato finely chopped\n8) Salt to taste\n<PERSON>, from the blog Sheba Yemeni Food’, shows us in this video how to make a Yemeni yogurt salad, which is spicy:\nFattah is a common main meal on a Yemeni table during Iftar.", "926" ], [ "As explained in the blog “ Yemen Food” it is made of:\nFatta, meaning crushed or crumbs, is a sort of bread soup made with pieces of the Yemeni bread bits mixed with meat broth and cooked vegetables making it soggy and mushy. As flatbreads quickly tend to get stiff when exposed to air, it is indeed a way of using stale bread. Fatta can also be made as a dessert with sweet ingredients including dates and honey. In Yemen, fatta is a common meal during the month of Ramadan.\n<PERSON> too shares with us the recipe of her own version on YouTube:\nAnother thing you are very likely to find on any table during Ramadan would be red meat. Try the lahma mahshoosha (lahma being meat in Arabic) using this recipe shared by <PERSON>:\nFirst wash and separate the fat from the meat. Cut the meat into small pieces. Heat the fat (if there is not a lot then add butter) in a pot over medium heat until it melts.Then add the meat, onions, garlic, spices and salt. Close the pressure cooker and cook for approx. 20 minutes or until the meat is tender. If you use a regular cooking pot, then the time will be longer, about an hour or so. NOTE: It is always necessary to use liquid with a pressure cooker, but in this case some juices will seep out of the meat to make enough liquid.", "94" ] ]

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[ [ "Caribbean: Thank You, Dr. <PERSON> · Global Voices\nToday, the United States marks Martin Luther King Jr. Day – a floating holiday which celebrates the birthday of the late civil right leader. The occasion resonates with Caribbean bloggers, both at home and throughout the diaspora and a few of them share their thoughts…\nJamaican litblogger <PERSON>, who lives in Miami, Florida, acknowledges the impact that Dr. <PERSON>'s “Letter from Birmingham Jail” has had on his life, noting that his latest book “include[s] a few of the lessons that [he] had learned from reading and teaching Dr. <PERSON>'s letter to [his] undergraduate students at Miami Dade College”. He calls Dr. <PERSON>'s letter “one of the great moral texts of the twentieth century, [which] should be required reading in the training of young minds.”\nCuban diaspora blogger <PERSON> put his tribute into “a little photo and video montage”, made from images he took during a visit to The King Center in Atlanta, Georgia. His compatriot, Notes from the Cuban Exile Quarter, also acknowledges the importance of the day:\nThe critiques against <PERSON> and nonviolence are of importance today because around the world in Egypt, Tunisia, Burma, Cuba and elsewhere movements have emerged that are inspired by <PERSON>'s example of nonviolent struggle. In the United States elements within the Occupy Wall Street movement have embraced <PERSON> and are organizing acts of remembrance on his birthday.\nIn the U.S.", "192" ], [ "Virgin Islands, Live De Life uploads a video of <PERSON> performing the “Ballad of Martin Luther King”, saying:\nFigured this was appropriate for the holiday.\nFinally, Afrobella posts a heartfelt “thank you” to Dr. <PERSON>…”for everything”:\nDr. <PERSON> was assassinated 44 years ago, and in the sands of time it is easy to forget that Dr. <PERSON> was a real person. A man with a beautiful wife and family. A man who became the public face of a movement. A man who tirelessly worked, marched, got arrested, spoke eloquently on the topics of peace, love, and justice — and ultimately gave his life to the cause of racial equality.\nThank you, Dr. <PERSON> Jr. Without you, who knows where we would be today.\nThe thumbnail image used in this post, “Martin Luther King, Jr. Portrait”, is by ctankcycles, used under an Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 2.0 Generic (CC BY-NC-SA 2.0) Creative Commons license. Visit ctankcycles’ flickr photostream.", "192" ] ]

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[ [ "search for weatherworking story set in Britain\nthis is a long shot, but it's been driving me crazy for a while and I figure if there's any place someone might know the answer... I would have read this at some point before 2001, which is not particularly helpful but does at least cut out the last 13 years, I guess?\n(Assume, by the way, that basically all of what follows will spoil the story.)\nSYNOPSIS\nThe protagonists of the story are a pair of young siblings, a boy and a girl. The brother is able to work weather magic, and close to the beginning of the story I'm pretty sure they come across a man who is being pressed to death as a witch. I'm pretty sure they rescue him.\nOver the course of the story, it emerges that the setting is a Britain in which people have returned to the land. It isn't a Britain that never developed, however; people seem simply to have forgotten the use of technology.", "54" ], [ "This is not a worldwide effect, however: there's a mention that, with all these weatherworkers in Britain, the weather in France has taken a turn for the dreary, rainy, and gray, and so this tech-less bubble basically covers just Britain. I think we find this out from the man, who will have come back in (and whose technological knowledge may have gotten him in trouble, though as far as I recall devices also stop working once they come in contact with the bubble). We also find out that at the moment this happened, there was an hour or two of chaos as (for instance) drivers on expressways lost control of their cars, airplanes failed, etc.\nEventually, they all come across the source of the disturbance, which ends up being the tomb of <PERSON>, who was apparently sleeping and then reawakened (possibly by archaeologists?) Ultimately, <PERSON> is responsible for Britain turning into a gigantic Ren Faire*, and after our protagonists talk to him he agrees that there isn't a crisis, that Britain should be allowed to rejoin the world, and everyone sort of wakes back up into understanding modern technology. Maybe <PERSON> goes back to sleep.\nAt the end, it's raining, and the sister asks her brother to make it stop, but he can't.\nDoes this sound at all familiar to anyone? Is there a chance someone recalls the author and title?\nThank you so much in advance.\n*Yes, I know this is anachronistic. Sorry.", "54" ] ]

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[ [ "Winner of the Fairplay poll at Essen this year (even over the current hot favorite Agricola), Tribune has since then slipped out of the spotlight with little to no further information available, besides that FFG is poised with an upcoming English release. Fortunately, I got a chance to play this at BGG.con a few weeks ago, thanks to <PERSON>. I have to say that the demo table for Tribune was constantly occupied over the 4-day period, so I guess even though the news have been scarce, people have definitely took notice of it. Here are some of my thoughts.\nGameplay/Rules\nSimilar to Pillars of the Earth, each person is given a number of meeples to place around the board as seen here:\nImage courtesy of <PERSON>\nBeginning with the starting player, everyone gets to put one marker on an open spot he/she desires and the action continues clockwise until there are no more meeples available. Then the locations resolve in the following order:\nCollection Plate\nFirst player here gets 7 coins.\nAll subsequent players receive 5 .\nSlave Market\nOnly two spots are available here at a cost of 1 coin each. You need to place your meeple next to the card you wish to purchase.\nForum\nSix cards here for you to choose from, but at a higher cost of 3 coins each.\nLatrine\nInitially placed face down , the card is then flipped over , you can choose either to take the card by paying coins or to pass to collect coins equal to its value .\nSenate\nThree spots up for grabs. You must discard a card from you hand to collect the set of card(s) you have claimed.\nAt the beginning of every round, each set is dealt out from the deck until a total value of 5 or more is reached OR if a leader (a 0 value card) is turned over .\nAtrium\nTwo spots available.\nInitially placed face down , the first player here gets to turn over 2 of the 3 cards of his choice . If he is the only person here by the end of the round, he gets those 2 cards for free .\nHowever, if and when a second player is present, the third card is also revealed , both will then participate in a blind bidding for all of the cards. Winner pays the coins he bid to the loser and tie is resolved in favor of the first player .\nThe same player may not occupy both spaces !\nCatacombs\nThree spaces designated 2, 3 and 4 .\n5 cards are dealt faced down at the beginning of each turn.\nThe player on the 4 spot gets to look through the stack of cards first. He may then chooses to pass or pay 4 coins to keep a card of his choice . Then the player on the 3 will get a shot at the cards, but he only has to pay 3 coins if he chooses to keep a card.", "84" ], [ "The 2 spot player goes last but the card only costs 2 coins.\nThe cost of a card remains the same with the respective spot even if the other spaces aren't claimed .\nCoins paid here do not go into the bank, but to the space next to it .\nPantheon\nTwo occupants allowed. The card here is initially placed faced down . When resolved, you may discard a card with the same faction as the revealed card here to gain a permanent favor of the God , with the condition that you must either be in possession of the temporary one OR if you own the group token for the Vestal faction .\n<PERSON> spots available.\nAll players involved discard 2 cards of the same faction from his hand, the person with the highest total value receives two laurels . Everyone else receive only 1 . In the case of a tie, no additional laurels are given, all participating players get only 1 .\nNo player may occupy more than 1 space here .\nFaction Track\nThis is where you can attempt to gain control of the 7 factions . Each factions has two spots up for grabs. Please remember that you resolve this track twice . First to claim the control , then to give out special favors to those controlling them .\nThe factions are resolved in order from left to right : So it goes Gladiator -> Legate -> Praetorian -> Plebian -> Patrician -> Vestal -> Senator.\nIf you are the only player at a particular faction, you may then attempt to take control by playing cards of that respective faction . You must play at least 2 cards , but if another player is currently in possession of the faction in question , you can beat it by either playing more cards or have a total value that is higher than the ones in front of him. (For example, <PERSON> has control of the Gladiators with 3 cards valued at 0, 2, and 5. You can take over by either playing 4 Gladiator cards, regardless of their values, or however many Gladiator cards that total more than 7).", "597" ] ]

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[ [ "Custom Arduino Board\nIntroduction: Custom Arduino Board\nI have work with Arduino from few years. It makes easy our electronic projects. But I was thinking how to make boards like Arduino?. When I make a permanent projects like clocks, whether stations. I have to keep my Arduino there forever I have to break that project or buy another one for another project. With this I can easily make any project with it's circuit. all I have to do is solder the components to this one.\nand Hope this will be a cool and fun project.\nSupplies\nFor this project we need some Supplies.\n* ATmega 328 -1\n* 22pf -2\n* 16 MHz crystal -1\n* USB ASP programmer -1\n* pin hedders male,femail\n* Ic bace(for atmega 328)\n* Double side PCB( I used Dot board )\n* 7805 IC -1\n* 0.33uf capacitor -1\n* 10uf capacitor -1\nNote: When you buy the USBASP programmer make sure to by the small 10 to 6 pin adapter.\nThese are for the circuit and I brought them via alixpress website.\nI took these Supplies images from the internet.\nAnd we need Basic Soldering skills, soldering iron, etc.\nStep 1: Video\nCustom Arduino board\nStep 2: Gather All the Components\nWhen you are going to make this project. gather all the components to your table. It will be easy to you.\nStep 3: Make the Circuit\nRead the diagram and build the circuit.\nIt explains how to connect vires, components etc.\nPlace the components according to diagram on the dot board. Then check them again. After checked them, begin to solder the circuit.\nCheck where the components placed and how It will also help you just like the diagram.\nAdd a LED to your Board. The built in led Is on the D13 pin. Make sure to add a resister otherwise led could burn.\nStep 4: Make the Digital and Analog Pins\nNow Get the pin herders and place them on both sides of Microcontroller as Arduino. These will allow you to Connect sensors etc.\nJust like normal Arduino.\nPlease check Images. These will help you to understanding.\nAnd you can label your pins if you like.", "611" ], [ "Ex: A0 , A1\nStep 5: Power Section\nAdd a 5v power regulator circuit to the project. So we can use it with a battery pack.\nCheck the circuit diagram and connect the 5v out put to VCC and GND pins of our Arduino.\nStep 6: Make Pins for Programmer\nNow, Here we are going to program our board using a USB programmer and Arduino Software. So for that we are using six pins.\nIn here I'm explaining how to make that part.\nFor communication with USB programmer we are using MISO MOSI SCK RESET VCC and GND pins. these are the six pins I mentioned earlier.\nIf you look at a programmer you will notice that it Comes with six pins 3 for one line. So we need to make suitable port in our board.\nPlease check images.\nGet pin header and break it to 2 pieces that include 3 of them in a one piece. and place them like in image and solder them. Now mark one side.(make it GND or VCC so it will easy to remember the side of your pins). Solder six pins to the Microcontroller. Then begin to make the connections.(check carefully images).\nStep 7: Prepare the Programmer\nTo Use the Programmer we need to Install some Drivers to our Computer.\nFor that go to this site :<PERSON>\nClick on download.\nAfter download it. Open it.\nPlug the USBASP programmer to the computer.\nGo to Options -> List all devices (tick on this)\nSelect Usbasp on the select bar.\nSelect the driver\nInstall it.\nThere are 6 drivers and to many people it worked only two of them. They were : . So I recommend to install one of them.\nThen go to device manager. You will see A device called Usbasp that successfully installed our driver.\nI included images of these steps.\nStep 8: Upload the Bootloader\nIf we want to work with our Arduino we need to install a Arduino bootloader. Its like our computer OS. It only need to install one time.\nThere are several ways to install bootloader to atmega 328 and you can find many tutorials from the internet.\nConnect the Programmer to the our board\nSelect the board as Arduino Uno.\nProgrammer as Usbasp.\nIn tools click the Burn bootloader.\nThis will burn the bootloader to our atmega328.\nStep 9: Lets Make It Work\nNow place the micro controller on the IC base.", "379" ] ]

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[ [ "There is a very strong argument from reason which states that; if the properties and qualifications of armaments of a sufficient variety of other space craft is established, the close approximations of the falcons quad guns can be determined by relative similarities and differences in design, construction, size, etc.\nWhat generally renders this sort of comparative determination by process of identification of visible and indexed features (i.e. they are seen in operation and responsive function, such as four barrels mounted from an over-hanging swiveling yoke, firing repeatedly by cycling pairs - top and bottom - while fire triggering is continuously depressed, or in a single burst of two shots when a precisely targeted single shot is made with observably greater power (and a different sound resonating in through the hull of the ship, which is more akin to a rapid double \"spitting\" sound).\nThe explanation for the observed initial upward/downward assent/descent toward accessing the turrets is simple: they are dog-leg routs to bypass having to also open the inner airlock seals in order to access the symmetrical vertical corridors presumably used for docking, which if opened for the sake of gaining access, coupled with the opening of the armored shielding and airlock seals of the exterior would unnecessarily compromise the entire hull and atmospheric entegrity of the ship should one of the turret/windows sustain a direct hit, blowing the whole ship (as presumably such a hit would cause to the turret positions where they are usually identified as being located).\nWhere any attempts at such a comparative evaluation break down is in the inability of the supporting technical information of the falcon to account for the situation of the quad guns in the positions where they are pointed toward as being located - the top (at the level of the communication array, but recessed, and though apparently facing with window facing directly upward at a 90 degree angle from the horizontal planes of the ship which its internal gravitational field generators are calibrated to distribute across to facilitate walking, rolling and falling down, shows a gravitational symmetry of the vertical axis within the firing cabin - in other words, gravity and the centrifugal force effect of the seating control and turret swivel are consistent with a center of gravity effect below the seat, not behind it which in the case of the top quad gun would otherwise have its operator pulled toward the back of the chair, and the operator of the oppositely directed hull gun falling forward if not heavily strapped in.\nSo there is a large portion of engineering specification missing which describes the additional gravitational field generators which have..", "441" ], [ "to feed into the cabins, the mechanical and power requirements of which will have a great baring on the way by which the quad guns are powered, coordinated and calibrated.\nWith the quad guns placed in the positions attested to, the properties of their function can not be determined without further supplemental explanation of how the surrounding physical mechanics are designed and implemented.\nThat is the quandry. The argument from reason strongly suggests that the location of the quad guns is merely misidentified as being top/bottom - situated, and oppositely vertically facing, with diagonally angled forward adjusted turrets [which does not correspond with the interior view perspective]. And can be quite easily explained and accounted for if situated at the port and starboard hatches with the blast shield and docking seal doors opened, with the turrets dropping down from overhead stowage, and the firing seats being unfolded from below as their design suggests in two - dimentional side view cutaways.", "537" ] ]

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[ [ "Shoah\nIgnore my rating because I think you should watch this, if you are interested in the subject matter at all.\nFirst, is this a movie? Yes, though no. I'm tempted to say a movie is a certain length. Anything over four hours becomes a series of some sort, if only for physiological reasons. I prefer to be hypnotized in one setting, yet I can't imagine anybody sitting down for all 9 hours of this in a go.\nThe artistic choices fascinate me. Rather than show us much, such as photographs or films from the Holocaust -- whatever's in the archives -- the documentary sticks only to interviews with living persons and shots of settings in their present-day (circa the early 1980s).\nThat means we have the very rare film that leaves mostly everything to our imagination. We hear the stories, we see the places, and yet neither go together obviously. The places mostly look completely serene. The effect is constant over 9 hours for me: how could such things happen in such places?\nI suppose filmmakers could learn a lot from this movie/series.", "862" ], [ "Not showing is powerful. Leaving everything to our imagination might be more powerful. That seems to be the result of \"Shoah,\" based on the ratings.\nMy concern is that this film requires a massive amount of prior knowledge. It's for people from 1985-2015. About that latter year, I'm guessing. But honestly, I'm getting students who know nothing about mid-20th century history. While this film assumes you know much, it's not going to speak well to people who get further distant from its events.\nAgain, I'm guessing on this, but I am speaking from my experience: prior knowledge/historical knowledge might be necessary here. We'll see.", "862" ] ]

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[ [ "Pumpkin Chandelier\nIntroduction: Pumpkin Chandelier\nThese instructions are going to be for the ultimate pumpkin chandelier. Of course this wont be super functional because pumpkins do eventually rot, but while it lasts it will be really cool. It will be a layered, hanging pumpkin ring chandelier.\nSupplies\n-A medium sized pumpkin\n-Rope\n-A large knife\n-A small knife\n-A tea light\n-A lighter\nStep 1: Cut the Stem Off of the Pumpkin\nFirst you will need to cut the stem off of the top of the pumpkin. You will need to do this because in order to do step two, you have to be able to get into the pumpkin.\nStep 2: Remove the Insides of the Pumpkin\nYou will need to remove the insides of the pumpkin (the guts). You wont need to keep that for any part of the chandelier but you could dry them out to make a nice snack! It does smell bad and its super cold but this step is necessary.\nStep 3: Cut Rings of Pumpkin\nNext you are going to take your large knife and start to cut a ring from the top of the pumpkin. Once you get that first ring off, you will repeat this step all the way to the bottom of the pumpkin.\nStep 4: Thin the Rings\nFor this step you will need to take a few of the inside layers from the rings of pumpkin to make them lighter.\nStep 5: Cut Holes in the Rings\nAfter you cut the rings of pumpkin, you are going to use a knife to make 2 small holes on each side of the ring.", "984" ], [ "You could also use a drill or something else sharp. These holes are going to be used for the rope to go through.\nStep 6: Cut the Rope\nAfter you make the holes around the pumpkin, you will need to cut your rope to your desired length. You will want to cut it however far apart you want each ring from each other plus an extra inch so that you have room to tie it.\nStep 7: Thread the Rope\nYou will need to thread a piece of rope through one hole on a pumpkin ring and connecting the other side of the rope to another ring, starting with the bottom piece of the pumpkin. Do this step connecting all of the rings.\nStep 8: Carve Designs (optional)\nSo for this next step you can carve whatever you want in the pumpkin rings. I did a face but you could do any design you want.\nStep 9: Burn the Ends of the Rope\nTake a lighter to burn the stray ends of the rope to secure the knots and make them stronger. You could also use hot glue instead. Be careful!\nStep 10: Light It Up\nLast step is to add a tea light or small candle to brighten up your beautiful chandelier.\nStep 11: Enjoy Your Creation While It Lasts", "984" ] ]

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[ [ "Child's Rocking Chair\nIntroduction: Child's Rocking Chair\nChild Size Rocking Chair\nSupplies\nThis Child's Rocking Chair is made from a single board of 5/4\"x6\"x10' (actual size 1\"x 5½\"x10') pressure treated decking lumber.\n(20) 1¾\" Wood Screws\n(36) ¾\" x ⅜\" Crown Staples\n-Wood Glue\n-#40 Sanding Wheel\n-#120 Grit Sandpaper\n-Wood Filler\n-Paint or Stain and Brush\nStep 1: Safety First\nPlease be sure to use proper personal protective equipment, eye and hearing protection, and mask for respiratory protection from breathing saw dust.\nStep 2: Plan Review\nCarefully review plans.\nStep 3: Cut Material to Length\nCut the 10' board into correct length pieces with circular saw or miter saw, carefully following the cut plan. If you don't follow the cut plan, you will not be able to get all the pieces from one 10' board.\nStep 4: Rip Pieces to Correct Width\nUse a table saw to rip all pieces to 2¾\" width, then set aside the armrests, rockers, and seat rails. Rip all remaining pieces again to a 1⅜ \" width. Seat slats and back slats require ripping to 1⅜ \" width and ½\" thickness.\nStep 5: Shaping Seat Rails and Armrests\nUse an old paint can as a guide, to mark cut line on armrests round ends for cutting. Cut with bandsaw or jigsaw the curved shapes of seat rails and armrests as shown in the plan. Use a grinder, with 40 grit sanding wheel, to refine final shapes of the armrests and seat rails.\nStep 6: Marking and Cutting Rocker Curves\nUse three screws to bend a thin board or other flexible material into curve for rocker, mark cut line, then use bandsaw or jigsaw to cut bottom rocker shape. An alternate method is to use a piece of construction paper to make template for marking cut line.\nStep 7: Cutting Dado Slot in Top and Bottom Seat Back Rails\nSeat back, top and bottom rails, require a dado slot ½\" wide and ½\" depth to accept back slats. Use table saw to cut dados. If you don't have dado blade, make multiple cuts to create slot. Use one of the back slats as a gauge to set fence width on table saw.\nStep 8: Cut Seat Back Side Rails to 15 Degree Angle\nUse miter saw or circular saw to cut 15 degree angle on one end of each of seat back side rails.", "785" ], [ "The angle cut is across the 1⅜\" width. Refer to cutting plan and photos to assist with this step.\nStep 9: Rounding Edges\nUse a router with ½\" round-over bit to round edges on all pieces, except the top edges of the seat rails.\nStep 10: Sanding Pieces\nSand all pieces to prevent splitters using 120 grit paper.\nStep 11: Begin Assembly\nOrganize all the pieces\nStep 12: Assemble Legs and Seat Rails & Bottom Rockers\nDrill ⅛\" pilot and ⅜\" counter sink holes in legs. Square the rocker and seat rails to legs, then use 1¾” wood screws to attach legs to seat rails and rocker bottom rails. Complete assemble for both sides.\nStep 13: Attach Seat Slats to Each Side Assembles\nAttach seat slats to sides assemblies, using #16 nail as a spacer to evenly space slats. Glue and fasten slats at each each with ¾\" staple.\nStep 14: Assemble Seat Back Rest\nInsert back slats into dados on the top and bottom seat back rail. Use ⅛\" even spacing between slats. Glue and fasten with ¾\" staples.\nStep 15: Attach Back Side Rails to Back Top and Bottom Rails\nDrill ⅛\" pilot and ⅜\" counter sink holes in back side rails. Use 1¾” wood screws to attach the back side rails to top and bottom back rails. The side rails should extend 1\" above the top seat back rail.\nStep 16: Attach Back Assembly to Seat Assembly\nDrill ⅛\" pilot and ⅜\" counter sink holes in the back legs. Use 1¾” wood screws on each side of back legs to attach the back assembly to seat assembly at 105 degree angle between the back and seat rails.\nStep 17: Attach Armrests\nDrill ⅛\" pilot holes and ⅜\" counter sink holes in armrests. Place armrest on top of legs and secure to legs with1¾” wood screws and glue.", "785" ] ]

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[ [ "Home Alone\nHow much I’ve missed this movie! It’s been a while since my last watch so I had forgotten almost everything about the plot - except the fact that <PERSON> is indeed home alone. This movie is incredible! It perfectly captures what it means to be a kid. When <PERSON> is left home alone, he proves himself to be extremely resourceful and strong-willed. And it’s extremely entertaining to watch him and the robbers in this cat and mouse game...", "647" ], [ "Highly recommended, especially if you’re in the holiday mood.\nchristmas spirit: snow (a lot of it!), christmas preparations, christmas trip, and christmas sweaters. It’s not a movie about christmas, but the events take place around christmas time and there are a lot of elements that remind me of christmas, such as <PERSON> cutting down a tree and decorating it, or the colorful lights outside every single house, and so on. Sometimes not much is enough. It’s a 5/5 for me.", "657" ] ]

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[ [ "Hurricane Dorian ambles through the Caribbean, but The Bahamas may still feel its wrath · Global Voices\nAn edited ISS060 image of Hurricane Dorian off the Dominican Republic on August 29, 2019. Image edited and uploaded by <PERSON>, CC BY-NC 2.0.\nAs Hurricane Dorian, the first major storm of the 2019 Atlantic hurricane season, strengthens to Category 4, much of the Caribbean is breathing a sigh of relief that the storm was not as powerful when it travelled through the U.S. Virgin Islands and skimmed Puerto Rico on August 28. Meteorologists have predicted that the storm could ramp up to Category 5 as it heads for Florida:\nThis is about as perfect as a hurricane gets in the Atlantic Ocean.\nHurricane #Dorian is a strong Category 4, and possibly will become a Category 5 later today.\nThis is a looming catastrophe for the northern Bahamas. pic.twitter.com/oG3c0hkz15\n— <PERSON> (@EricHolthaus) August 31, 2019\nSince its journey through the region, Dorian has grown in both strength and intensity. The Bahamas has hunkered down and is bracing for rough weather, as the storm's path is expected to continue along the northwest of the archipelago. Hurricane-force winds are estimated to extend outward up to 30 miles (45 km) from the storm's centre, bringing 10 to 15 inches of rain to the northwest Bahamas and 2 to 4 inches in the central Bahamas—conditions which have the potential to cause flash flooding and loss of life.\n<PERSON>, curator at the National Art Gallery of The Bahamas, posted on Facebook:\nThe Bahamas is not ready for any storm–much less a significant cat 3/4 hurricane–we are not even ready for a few inches of rain. The northern islands and its people cannot go through this trauma, again. At this point, it seems unending and relentless.\nShe went on to detail the storms the archipelago has suffered, the billions of dollars worth of damage as a result, and deferred attempts to invest in green energy and hardier infrastructure, concluding:\nI know we rebound quickly and in the Caribbean, it is our nature to do so. […]\nHowever, we must be asking ourselves other questions now, more in-depth inquiries about our futures, the countries we want to occupy, the spaces that we want to build, the peace we want to inhabit and the WHOLE citizens we aspire to be.", "482" ], [ "If we do not, we fall into the trap of being generationally traumatised peoples moving into a future of rising sea levels, mounting temperatures and being re-colonised by systems of embedded failure.\nMeanwhile, Bahamian Prime Minister <PERSON> has put an evacuation order in place for parts of Grand Bahama and the Abaco Islands, saying that this was not a storm to be trifled with.\n<PERSON> responded to this news by saying:\nI am on my goat knees praying for the safe passage through the tempest for the people of the Abacos and Grand Bahama. I just watched the evacuation notice and my heart and mind can not fathom what the next 48 hours will look like for them. Gut wrenching terror as they prepare for landfall.\nNassau will not be in the direct path of Dorian but we are in the cone and will experience tropical storm conditions. To say this is fortunate feels unfair in the face of what’s to come.\nThe might of the storm has not deterred American hurricane chaser <PERSON>, though, who was determined to get to The Bahamas before access was shut down:\nGoin' for it. Last flight into Abaco Islands #Bahamas before it shuts down. I passionately hate Island Roulette. But I hate standing on my hind legs for three days to lick the bland edges of an unraveling recurver even more. I may go down in flames on this chase. Oh well. #DORIAN pic.twitter.com/eIt41DIJny\n— <PERSON> (@iCyclone) August 31, 2019\nDorian appears to be turning farther north even with The Bahamas in its sights. But the fact that it is a lumberingly slow-moving storm has some suggesting that it could be the most violent system to hit the east coast of the United States in 30 years.", "166" ] ]

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[ [ "<PERSON> a Cardboard Robot\nIntroduction: <PERSON> a Cardboard Robot\n<PERSON> is an #OttoRemix entirely cardboard version of the original #OttoDIY of which he takes over all the electronic components and programming with OttoBlockly.\nAll information on how to build the OttoDIY robot with the 3D printer and all types of electronic components are available at https://www.instructables.com/Otto-DIY-Humanoid-Ro... and on the official website http://www.ottodiy.com.\nThis project shows specifically how to build <PERSON> the #OttoRemix but made entirely of Cardboard.\nSupplies\nSupplies\n(All the electronic components are the same as OttoDIY)\n1 x Arduino Nano\n1 x Nano Shield I/O\n1 x cable USB-A to Mini-USB\n1 x ultrasound sensor HC-SR04\n4 x Micro servo MG90s\n1 x Buzzer\n24 x Female/Female Jumper Wire\n10 × Female/Female Jumper Wires\n1 x Nano Shield I/O\n1x charger + power booster + 16340 Lithium Battery or 2x Battery CR123A or 16340 + Battery Holder CR123A\n1 x Small Phillipis screwdriver\nSpecifically for Otto Cardy\n2x Cardboard sheet A4 2mm, Corrugated or Greyboard\n1x clip of Ikea Bevara Bag Sealing Clip\nStep 1: Body Building\nTo begin with, you can start by cutting the body of the robot consisting of three pieces that must be wedged together. The two PDF files Otto_Cardy1.pdf and Otto_Cardy2.pdf contains the technical drawing of all components and must be printed in A4 format. To get the exact dimensions please print at 102% size.\nThe A4 drawing should be glued to the cardboard and then cut along the edges indicated by the continuous red line. It is recommended to use a sharp cutter for the holes and the openings. The dashed red line indicates where to fold the edges of the carton while the dashed lines of other colors indicate projection lines.\nIn image, points A are marked in red to facilitate the assembly of the pieces. To increase the rigidity of the structure where the motors are hooked, I used two overlappings pieces and glued layers of cardboard.\nStep 2: How to Make Head of the Robot\nThe second drawing OttoDIY_Card2.pdf contains the quoted reliefs of the components of the head with all the closing pieces. The design of the legs and feet, being symmetrical, are drawn only once, and it should be remembered that they must be printed twice and must be glued in a mirrored way: in the drawing is inserted the inscription x2.\nIn yellow, the drawing of OttoDIY's head (HEAD) with its cover is highlighted. The part corresponding to the foot (FOOT) is dealt with in the following chapter.\nTo facilitate assembly, the points (A) that must coincide in the two pieces are highlighted in red color.\nThe two pieces must be assembled using glue and masking tape to hold the various parts during assembly.", "354" ], [ "Start by matching the letter A with two pieces and then following the outline. You can put glue along the entire edge and place it in succession\nThe head must be inserted accurately outside the body and must therefore be \"built\" and closed using the body as a template and reference shape. To have a good closure between the two pieces, try to give the two a slightly conical shape in oerder to have a precise interlocking but also easy to remove\nStep 3: How to Make Legs of the Robot\nIn the second drawing OttoDIY_Card2.pdf there are listed all reliefs of the legs and the feet. The design of the legs and feet, being symmetrical, is printed only once but must be made in two identical copies: in fact, the inscription x2 is inserted in the drawing\nThe legs are formed by cardboard wrapped around the motor and glued to the holder, which is screwed to the head motor.\nThe leg supports are made from a single clip, cut to a length of 25 cm.\nExample of the cut (red lines) of the Sealing clip:\n1. The two final parts cut to a length of 25 mm (SUPPORT ON FOOT in the drawing)\n2. Grooves where to insert the motor and the Servo Arm. The hole has a diameter of 8 mm\n3. Support mounted in the motor\n4. Servo Horn modified to \"dovetail\"\n5. Groove where to insert the Servo horn.\nThe two supports are the only components of Otto cardy that are not made of cardboard because they must be very sturdy as they must perform the structural function of supporting the legs.", "276" ] ]

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[ [ "Pet insurance for my cat\nHi! I currently have lemonade pet insurance for my cat she's 7 months old right now. I had enrolled her when she was a kitten (8 weeks old) but I've been looking at other insurance companies like Trupanion and spot and I was thinking on switching bc I noticed that they cover more things like dental. What would be the best way to switch since she's still young right now and has only had one vet appointment to get all her vaccines and vet said she was fine. Thank you", "589" ] ]

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[ [ "Cardboard Ambulance\nIntroduction: Cardboard Ambulance\nI was in the hospital with a very bad case of covid from Sept 26, 2021 until Jan 25th 2022. Almost 5 months I was on a ventilator and given up to die three times. While in there once I came out of a 30 day induced coma and gained use of my hands again I began doing drawings which my nurses enjoyed so much they hung them up in the hospital and made copies of them at physical therapy. I told them that once I got able to I would do a craft project for them and send it up there. So April I started on it and finished it up just recently towards end of June. I think they will enjoy it as well.\nSupplies\nCardboard, hole punch, craft foam, crafting wire, toothpicks, acrylic paints, thin plastic sheets, hot glue, elmers glue, super glue, pencil, scissors, knife, paint and gel pens.\nStep 1: Cutting Out the Basic Structure.\nI began by gathering up some cardboard and sketching the side panels out to the desired shape and size using hot glue to secure everything in place. Then I put a few coats of acrylic craft paint on and cut the wheels out to the desired size.\nStep 2: Making the Wheels and Mounting Them.\nNext after getting the basic body structure and frame I cut the wheels out of cardboard. The inner hub which supports the wheel via toothpicks I used a hole punch to fit the wooden axle through. After trimming the toothpick spokes I used a generous amount of elmers glue all around the spokes and placed a rubber band around them.", "644" ], [ "Once dry I painted the tires black and the wheels same color as the body. Some of the other stuff I worked on while waiting for glue to dry is windshield, dash, headlights and roof panels.\nStep 3: Making the Fenders, Running Boards, Spare Tire & Mount, Etc...\nNow that I have the wheels mounted I start working on the fenders and running boards. Once finished I put several coats of acrylic paint letting the base color dry before adding the black and gold trim using gel and paint pens. I also did lots of little finishing details such as the instrument cluster which I use a toothpick to paint the small numbers and details on before putting a plastic sheet over it to give it a more realistic look. I make the steering wheel and shifter and all the other little details you can see in the final pictures and video.\nStep 4: Complete With Video\nSince this needs to be handled carefully I secured it inside a display case as you can see in video. I ordered some little brass custom engraved nameplates with some information so it will present itself well. Turned out pretty much how I had envisioned it which is rare for something made from scratch and on the fly process. I already have an idea of the theme for my next one. Hope you enjoyed.", "959" ] ]

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[ [ "Bocas Lit Fest crowdsources ‘100 Caribbean books that made us’ · Global Voices\nScreenshot of Bocas Lit Fest's Facebook post promoting its “100 Caribbean Books that Made Us” initiative.\nThe Bocas Lit Fest, which has emerged not only as the premier Caribbean literary festival but as one of the best in the world, celebrates its tenth anniversary this year. The founders of the Trinidad and Tobago-based festival had planned to mark the occasion in grand style from September 18-20, 2020, but the COVID-19 pandemic has, thus far, forced all events in the lead-up to the festival online — and it remains unclear at this point whether the country's borders will be reopened in time for the carded festival dates.\nOne of the initiatives the festival has taken to keep its audience engaged is its “100 Caribbean books that made us” campaign. Inspired by the BBC’s “100 books that shaped our world,” the challenge asks readers to submit the titles of the Caribbean books that have meant the most to them. <PERSON> makes clear that this “isn’t a competition, but a chance to curate the stories that hold pride of place on your bookshelves and in your hearts.”\nThe campaign, which ended on May 8, 2020, received a robust response on social media channels, via the hashtag #MyCaribbeanLibrary. Some literature fans simply posted their picks in comment threads, while others created their own posts and videos.", "941" ], [ "We'll feature some of the most interesting choices.\nTrinidadian book vlogger <PERSON> kicked things off by explaining how the initiative worked and selecting a few picks of his own:\nMany of the books <PERSON> chose had the shared theme of the inner creating the outer, including <PERSON> “Anna In Between,” in which the heroine learns that “home is not a place, but rather, the people that you love and care for,” and <PERSON> “The Beast of Kukuyo,” a tale about a girl who learns that the true monsters that plague our fears […] are, in fact, the ones that live within us.”\nPoet and blogger <PERSON> also posted a video with his choices:\n<PERSON>'s list was an eclectic one. It included Caribbean literary classics like <PERSON> “The Dragon Can't Dance,” <PERSON> “Growing Up Stupid Under the Union Jack,” which looks at “the coloniality of education and Barbadian social life,” and Jamaican <PERSON> poetry collection, “I Am Becoming My Mother,” which <PERSON> says helped shape him.\nHe also deemed <PERSON> “A Small Place” a “very important piece of work” as “a contestation of space, place [and] power” in the region. As a spoken word poet, Sanatan was also drawn to “The History of the Voice,” by <PERSON>, who believed that poetry, just like Caribbean culture, must be experienced through the region's rich oral tradition.\nAuthor <PERSON> also weighed in, with picks that included Caribbean crime fiction in the form of <PERSON> “The Bone Readers”, and <PERSON> acclaimed novel, “The Dew Breaker”:\n<PERSON> also chose Trinidadian poet <PERSON>'s startling debut, “Everyone Knows I Am a Haunting,” which she calls “poetry that shows us the best and worst of ourselves.”\nAnother Trinidadian poet, <PERSON>, chose Trinidadian writer <PERSON>'s “Aelred’s Sin‬” as a book that had a profound impact:\nLook closely, it is as though <PERSON> has ripped out the spine of <PERSON> “The Name of the Rose,” the yearning root, the bones beneath tender flesh and transplanted the same mood and energy, the same series of baffling yet dazzling antinomies into the heat of the islands— in all senses, across geographies. A book that is bold in its willingness to explore a hidden struggle which, even in all its particulars, manages to be universal. An incredible feat not only of art, but also, in its own way, restitution, justice and song. Bless you, <PERSON>.\nFinally, <PERSON> suggestions stayed firmly in the realm of children's and young adult literature, in order to help mould the Caribbean readers — and writers — of tomorrow:\nThe Bocas Lit Fest is asking us to name the 100 [Caribbean] books that made us.", "117" ] ]

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[ [ "Making a Tooth Fairy Box\nIntroduction: Making a Tooth Fairy Box\nThis little box started out as a 3 inch by 3 inch business card which was laser cut from 1/8 inch Baltic birch plywood.\nThe pieces poke out to make a small hinged box.\nThe business cards turned out to be really expensive.\nThe box is really too small to hold any but the tiniest of rings. However, my wife was quick to point out that the box is the correct size for a pair of diamond stud earrings (Absolutely . . . . Use it for that).\nI needed another reason for a small box.\nOne of my friends pointed out that the box is the perfect size for a tooth. So, the small box became the Tooth Fairy Box.\nAs one parent later told me, the box is way easier for the Tooth Fairy to find than a lone tooth under a pillow.\nI carry the 3x3 panels with me and make them to hand out when we go to restaurants.", "845" ], [ "I also make and hand out toys (see the dinosaur toy Instructable). The toys go to the kids, the boxes go to mom and dad.\nSupplies\nFiles\nDXF, SVG, and Corel versions of the file\nCaution: You will note there are outlines of the pieces in the center of the panel and an outline of the finished box in the corner of the panel. Those are meant to be engraved, not cut. Just sayin'\nCAD program\n* To import the vector file into something your laser will recognize\n* My program of choice is Corel Draw (V16)\n* The attached files are DXF and SVG exported from Corel Draw\nLaser\n* With enough power to etch AND cut 1/8 inch plywood\n* I had access to a 60 WATT Universal and 75 WATT Epilog\n1/8 inch Baltic birch plywood (my material of choice)\n* Other materials will work but the vector file will need to be changed to accommodate the thickness of the material being used.\nNote: 1/8 inch thick wood might work except that the cutout pieces are small and have small tabs which might break along wood grain lines.\nWood Glue\n* If you scale the file correctly, the parts will press fit together.\n* Variations in the thickness of the material sometimes means a loose fit.\n* I use Titebond original wood glue. I use a TINY amount (two to four drops per box / see picture) and it sets up fairly quickly.\nStep 1: Poke Out the Pieces and Start Assembly\nCarefully poke out the pieces.\n* If you hold the panel up to the light, you will see little tabs holding the individual pieces to the panel.\n* Apply pressure to the border at the tab holding the piece in place, the piece will usually break free,\nTo start, you will need\n* Back, both sides and bottom (shown)\nNote: Careful not to confuse the front and back pieces. The back piece is taller.\nNote: The sides are interchangeable.\nAdd a SMALL amount of glue to the mating surface on the BOTTOM PIECE ONLY\nNote: The point is to keep any glue away from the hinge pins\nThe curve in the side pieces goes next to the hinge pins (see the picture)\nAfter the bottom, sides and back are glued, find the front piece.\nAdd a SMALL amount of glue to the mating surfaces (bottom and sides)\nAttach the front piece and squeeze the pieces together slightly.\nEach tab should be fully seated into its adjoining slot.\nStep 2: Gather the Pieces for the Top.\nNow that the bottom part of the box is complete, it should look like the first picture.\nNow find the top, top sides, and top front pieces.\nThe pieces are shown in the picture in their correct orientation\nNote: The top piece has a straight edge without any slots. That is the back of the box lid.\nApply a small amount of glue to the mating surfaces on the TOP PIECE ONLY\nWhen assembled it, will look like picture 4\nStep 3: Assemble the Top to the Box\nWhile the glue on the top is still wet,\nWhile the glue on the top is still wet, put the top on the box.\nNote: It will be necessary to move one of the top side pieces outwards a little bit so that it can slip over the hinge pin (as shown in the picture)\nOnce the top is in place, squeeze the box on all six sides (Slightly, remember its 1/8 inch plywood) to make sure all tabs are in their slots\nIts not a bad idea to open the box carefully a few times to make sure that the lid is not glued down.", "276" ] ]

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[ [ "Japan: Moving Beyond a TV Drama Production · Global Voices\nThere are some television shows that become fashion trend setters (à la Sex and the City) but what would you think if a show was designed as a vehicle to sell clothes?\nWith television stations in a financial slump with shrinking advertising revenues, Kansai Television is experimenting with a new take on product placement. Viewers are offered the chance to buy apparel and accessories showcased in the fashion drama Real Clothes [ja], which features popular actresses <PERSON> and <PERSON>.\nA summary of the show from Tokyo Graph:\nThe drama is based on <PERSON> manga of the same name. <PERSON> plays the role of <PERSON>, a saleswoman in the futon section of a department store. Despite her plain clothes and poor makeup, she ends up being transferred to the women's clothing department, where she has to be trained by her extraordinarily fashionable boss (<PERSON>).\nThe RedPen blog gives a rundown of the system in a post titled “The border between advertisement and content is breaking down with ‘Real Clothes'” (崩れ始める広告とコンテンツの境界線、「リアル・クローズ」):\nフジテレビは2009年10月13日（22:10～）より、関西テレビ制作のドラマ「リアル・クローズ」の放映を開始します。放送と同時に俳優が身につけている服やアクセサリーをネット経由で購入できる、いわゆるEC連動型番組ですが、公共電波を独占的、排他的に利用しているテレビ局のあこぎな商売として非難する声も上がっています。（参照：「主役が着た服、ドラマＨＰで即通販 番組？広告？境界は」）\nFuji TV will start broadcasting Kansai TV's “Real Clothes” from 22:10 on October 13th.", "243" ], [ "It's an e-commerce program where viewers can go online and purchase the clothing and accessories that the actors wear on the show. There's outcry about this being the monopolistic and exclusive usage of public airwaves for commercial purposes by a television station.\nリアル・クローズは電子番組表Gガイドを提供するインタラクティブ・プログラム・ガイドが開発したシステム「オンエアリンク」利用の第一号。出演者が着用した衣装やアクセサリーなどのアイテムや商品がテレビ番組のストーリーに連動して、ECサイトにアップされ、オンタイムで同じ商品が購入できるシステムです。出演者が着用している商品情報と番組メタデータをデータベース上でひも付け、タイムコードに合わせて配信・管理できます。\nReal Clothes is the first practical application of the interactive program guide system “On Air Link”, which is developed by Interactive Program Guide, the creators of the electronic TV listings “G Guide”. The items worn by the actors are pushed to the e-commerce site and viewers can buy them while the show is being aired. Product information and program metadata are linked within the database and the system allows for information distribution and management in accordance to a time code.", "618" ] ]

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[ [ "Light Palate--Selective Lighting for Your Next Feast\nIntroduction: Light Palate--Selective Lighting for Your Next Feast\nThe permutations that fine food has gone through in the last 20 years has been quite amazing. Every nuance has been tweaked and romanced over. Growing up in the midwest where food was taken in merely to prevent bodily collapse until that one day when we went to McDonalds for the first time and I inhaled a burger that was so beyond the usual taste limits that my whole world changed. Things could taste really good! Older with kids I found the burgers nearly intolerable--they had descended to the lower edge of the taste spectrum over the years supplanted by deep dish pizza, barbecue and fresh salmon on a cedar plank.\nIn this instructable I wanted to up the game slightly by extending our taste spectrum with a light spectrum tweak. You can think of it as a Phillips light for food. I built a hanging light outfitted with Neopixels that are controlled by a light sensor that is primed by the food that we place underneath it. In this way the color of the presented food is augmented by a color boost along with the usual wavelengths additional LED's are recruited to bring up its color subtleties. The Microcontroller presents the color spectrum that was analyzed and using an algorithm balances out the best frequency. You can also subtly adjust this level with a manual override. The system also works for flowers, objects of art and anything else you might want to appear more tempting.\nStep 1: Gather Your Materials\nThe hanging lamp is made out of 52 mm aluminum speed-rail which can be found in any large city with a metal supplier. This is not a requirement and it can also be fabricated out of PVC or any other tube material but of course it would suffer from ugliness.\n1. Aluminum Speed Rail--52mm X 26 Inches $20\n2. TTGO T-Display ESP32 CP2104 WiFi bluetooth Module 1.14 Inch LCD Development Board $11\n3. Adafruit AS7262 6-Channel Visible Light / Color Sensor Breakout $19\n4. Adafruit NeoPixel Digital RGB LED Strip - White 60 LED - WHITE $24 about 3 m\n5. 1/16 in. x 50 ft. Galvanized Vinyl Coated Steel Wire Rope $10\n6. Aluminum Alloy Coupling Shaft Coupler Motor Coupler Connector - 7# $5\n7.", "769" ], [ "Power Supply--ALITOVE 5V 8A 40W AC to DC Adapter Power Supply Converter Transformer 5.5x2.1mm $18\nStep 2: 3D Print Your Parts\nOnly a couple of parts need to be 3D printed for the lightPalate. The two end plates--one that contains the Microcontroller and the other a blank disc. One baffle to cover the parts connections on the microcontroller end and the cable attachments inside the housing. They keep the power cables that the unit hangs from making connection with the aluminum housing and shorting it out. They also have built in channels to allow for better cable wrangling. The other part is the insulator that hold the head of the touch control screw from contacting the aluminum housing. The parts are all printed without support out of standard PLA and then painted with Aluminum spray paint to match the housing.\nStep 3: Build Your Housing\nThis type of aluminum is very soft and can be easily cut with a metal blade saber saw in a freehand fashion. A straight outline is done of the horizontal cutout. The ends gentle curves are usually outlined with a flexible french curve template to make them smooth. The smoothing of the final curves was done with a dremmel drum sander and a bench sander. Final smoothing was done with a random orbit sander. The housing was then sandblasted with fine grit to give an overall smooth finish both inside and out. Holes were drilled in the top to accommodate the support wires. Additional holes were drilled to fit the opening for the AS7262 6-Channel Visible Color Sensor and the touch control screw-head. These were done with a step-drill. Final painting was done with Valspar top coat flat finish to the outside of the housing and the inside was painted with a flat white spray paint to reflect light.\nStep 4: Add Neopixels\nThe Neopixels are stripped of their silicon covers to allow them to be directly mounted to the inside of the lightPalate housing. Approximately 3 meters of neopixels was used in the project but you can increase this to bolster the lighting intensity as much as you want. The NeoPixel strands are glued directly to the painted inner liner with E7000 glue. You don't really have to worry about the strands shorting out with contact with metal except at the ends where the wires are attached. These areas are problematic and should be covered heavily with liquid electrical tape insulator fluid--a great product.", "996" ] ]

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[ [ "Cat won’t keep cone on after neuter\nSo today me and my family got our cat (<PERSON>, 6 months old) neutered and upon picking him up we were told he’s in between cone sizes so it sort of had to be tied onto his head with a piece of medical gauze. As soon as we got in the car he managed to kick the cone off, and after attempting to put it on for about 20 minutes when we got home, we just decided to go back to the vet and ask if they could help us get it back on in a way that’d make it stay more permanently. They were a belt to get it back on with a collar harnessing it onto him (which he also absolutely hates wearing normally, hence why they didn’t harness it with the collar in the first place) but once again, as soon as we got in the car he managed to undo the collar and get the cone off.", "311" ], [ "At this point we’re panicking and trying to figure out how the hell to get it to stay, and in the end we probably spend a good hour and a half trying to get it to stay, along with buying a little donut thing to go around his neck as an alternate solution to the cone, which also ended up failing. Eventually he knocked out and we decided to take a break and hope he’d just leave the affected area alone once he woke up, fast forward to as im writing this and he WILL NOT stop trying to lick the area and i’ve just decided to try and keep him occupied until he knocks out again.\nMe and my parents aren’t sure what to do anymore because it feels like we’ve tried everything in order to keep the cone on his head and prevent the licking, but he just won’t keep it on. And I have other commitments that can’t allow me to stay up all night and be around all day making sure he doesn’t lick the area, I truly have no idea what to do. Is there any other ways to get him to avoid licking the area without using the cone?", "210" ] ]

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[ [ "Fruity Chia Seed Pudding\nIntroduction: Fruity Chia Seed Pudding\nChia seeds are rich in nutrients, full of fiber and good fats, easy to prepare and visually interesting. They go great with chocolate and fruit, can be mixed with regular milk, coconut, soy or nut milk.\nOnly one tablespoon of chia seeds has as much fiber as 2 cups of broccoli, so if you are on a quest to eat more fiber, this instructable is for you.\nChia pudding has to be made ahead of time, at least 6-8 hours.", "851" ], [ "Fruit fillings can be prepared ahead of time.\nYou can choose which fruit to use and layer your pudding however you like.\nIt can be kept in the fridge up to 4 days.\nSupplies\n4 portions (~1/2 cup chia pudding per person)\n1 can (400ml) coconut milk\n4-5 tablespoons liquid sweetener such as honey or syrup\n5 tablespoons chia seeds\nsmall whisk\nhand blender- optional\nFresh, canned or frozen fruit of your choice, about 400g:\n-strawberries\n-mango\n-pineapple\n-kiwi\n-peach\n-berries\n-passion fruit\nAdditional seasoning like cinnamon, vanilla extract, ginger etc.\nStep 1: Gel Your Chia\nPour the milk into a bowl, add liquid sweetener and mix very well. Sprinkle chia seeds over the milk and whisk everything together immediately. Chia seeds usually take a few minutes before they start the gelling process, but sometimes this might happen straight away and if you don't mix the seeds very well, you will end up with clumps of seeds and no way of separating them.\nOnce mixed, put aside for 15-20 min and then whisk one more time.\nCover with cling wrap and leave in the fridge overnight (at least 6 hours).\nStep 2: Chia Pudding\nChia pudding after few hours, it's ready to use straight away.\nStep 3: Fruity Pulp and Chunky Fillings\nUse about 100g of fruit per portion.\nWash, peel and cut your fruit.\nDecide if you want chunky or smooth filling.\nUse a fork to mash soft fruit like strawberries.\nUse a blender to process fruit into smooth pulp.\nOr simply chop them into small pieces with a knife.\nStep 4: Peach and Ginger\nCanned peaches and freshly grated ginger blended in a smoothie maker into a pulp.\nStep 5: Pina Colada - Pineapple\nFresh pineapple diced into small pieces.\nStep 6: Strawberry and Mango\nMashed strawberries and mango pulp with chunks.", "2" ] ]

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[ [ "You'll be scooping up interstellar medium at significant kinetic energies.\nThere's two problems: The atoms that hit you will actually accelerate you away from your position (pressure measured in Pa), and of course they'll impose a radiation hazard as you absorb them (radiation dose measured in Gy).\nLet's do some math. Let's assume an interstellar medium consisting of one hydrogen atom per cubic centimeter.\nThis gives a density ρ = m/V = 1.7e-21 kg/m³.\nYou'll scoop up the ISM at dm/dt/A = ρ·v = 1.5e-13 kg/s/m². Note that this depends on the area of your body that is facing into the stream; you might want to go head-first or feet-first depending on if you're still planning to procreate.\nThe pressure that the ISM exerts on you is p = F/A = dm/dt/A · v = 1.3e-5 Pa.\nThis is pretty negligible, you won't even feel it. At an exposed area of 1m² and a mass including the EVA suit of 100kg, the acceleration is just 1.3e-7m/s², enough to displace you by less than a meter in one hour.\nThe radiation hazard is another thing, though. The kinetic energy at relativistic speeds is calculated by multiplying the relativistic gamma factor, minus one, with mc². The relativistic gamma factor in your case is 1.04828.\nThe kinetic energy of the mass stream is calculated by P/A = (relativistic gamma factor - 1)·dm/dt·c^2/A = 653W/m². This is half the power of solar radiation as felt on earth. Which is a lot.\nThe radiation dose is calculated as energy absorbed per body weight: Assuming a body weight of 80kg and an exposed area of 0.5m^2, D/t = P/m = (P/A)·A/m = 4.08Gy/s.", "921" ], [ "This handy table tells you what will happen to your spacewalker.\n* They'll pretty much immediately feel the extra heating\n* After 2 seconds, their biology is damaged beyond repair with a life expectancy of 2-4 weeks, and \"rapid incapacitation\" sets on\n* After 7 seconds, they'll experience \"Seizures, tremor, ataxia and lethargy\", and their life expectancy has dropped to 1-2 days\nSo... without some sort of shield there's no way a human could do a spacewalk.\nhowever, these levels of radiation will not only affect spacewalkers, but everybody on the ship, so the ship will likely have massive leaden (or similar) shields at its front. As long as your space walkers would be in the \"shadow\" of the frontal shield, they have nothing to worry about... apart from accidentally drifting into the death zone...\nOf course the radiation levels outside the ship would still be elevated because\n* the ship's hull provides some additional shielding\n* some particles can be scattered around the edges of the shield which would lead to a gradual increase in levels the closer you get to the \"edge\" of the shielded zone, especially near the rear end of the ship.\nbut if the inside of the ship is shielded well enough to allow humans to live a normal live and life, they should be able to survive outside for a few hours without problems.\nP.S. I think the leaden shield is actually doable in practice. I'm not sure how to calculate its thickness, but it will be probably ~50 times the mean free path of 0.3c hydrogen atoms in lead, whatever that works out to. You could make the shield out of Unobtanium which I hear has excellent properties in that respect. Unobtainium shields may even be light enough to be worked into the fabric of the EVA suit... but note that you'll still need to cool them, and since your visor can't be made of it, don't you ever stare into the direction of oncoming death.", "947" ] ]

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[ [ "The tale of robber the hood, steal from the not so rich to give to the poor\n<PERSON> lived in a tiny desert town. He worked at a pizza place , well call it \"papa John's\" lol. This papa johns happens to be next to a Marshalls... Every day theives would rob clothes, expensive ones too might I add, from Marshalls and run up the alley by <PERSON>.", "514" ], [ "One day <PERSON> decided that HE WANT THEM CLOTHES HO! , So he decided to start robbing the theives. What were they going to do? Call the cops lol. <PERSON> started waiting for the theives in the alley and raking in the clothes in between deliveries as a side gig. He took everything they stole and sold it at a discount price to all his friends and clients making way more than his pizza job ever did! All while technically never stealing from the <PERSON> himself lol.... Based on a true story", "86" ] ]

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[ [ "Beautiful Nursery Decor With Wire and Wool\nIntroduction: Beautiful Nursery Decor With Wire and Wool\nI received my first 3d printer for Christmas and I'm learning fusion 360 right now.\nWhy do I tell? Well, because it's the beginning of this instructable idea.\nI started with fusion 360 and I needed to design something which is not too complicated, but still useful. I draw a tube and somehow it reminded me of my Kindergarten time when we used to craft a lot with wool and spool knitting. I didn't spool knit or french knit (or used the Strickliesel, how it's called in german) for an age but I still remembered the fun I had doing it. But what to do with the created wool-worms?\nIf you google \"wool and wire\" you can find a lot of nursery decor signs.\nIt's not new, but it's new to me.\nAnd I like the outcome :-)\nA nursery decor sign for a friend's grandniece, I hope she (and her parents) like it too.\nI hear you saying \"But I don't have a 3d printer\" or \"But I don't want to wait until the print is finished\"? Quickly jump over to step 4.\nStep 1: Tools and Material\nMaterial:\n* Wool in your preferred color ( I used 50g/165m (1oz3/4 / 180yds.))\n* Wire (I used 1mm/0.039\" but I would use 1,2mm/0.047'' the next time, because it's a little bit wabbly)\n* scotch tape\n* thread for stitching the parts together\n* opt: an old pen with big diameter\n* opt: heat shrink tubing\nTools:\n* side cutter\n* small plier\n* 3d printer\n* crochet needle fitting to your wool size (I used a 3mm hook)\n* needle\n* paper\n* pencil\n* opt: lighter\nStep 2: The French Knitting Spool Tool\nMy spool knit design doesn't look fancy, but you can believe me, it took me a long time until I got it into the shape that I imagined.\nThe design is also attached, so feel free to print your own.\n1. Print your tube (I used black pla)\n2. Cut of 5cm /2\" of the wire and bend it to an u-shape\n3. Or much easier, stick your wire into one of the holes, set your pliers and bend the wire around the pliers, then just cut it to an equal lenght\n4. Repeat until you have 4 u-shapes\n5. Stick the \"U\"s into the holes in your tube (if they don't fit well enough, add a tiny drop of super glue to fix it)\n6. Bend the upper part of the closed \"U\"s a little bit apart, this will help you later with not losing your stitches while knitting\nCreate a knitting helper\nWhile you could just use a simple piece of wire, or a small hook, I created myself a little helper (as you can see in the pictures)\nStep 3: How to French Knitting\n1. Lead your wool through the knitting tube\n2. Attach it to the bottom, either fix it with your palm or stick a piece of tape to it\n3.", "812" ], [ "Start wrapping your wool around your hooks; counterclockwise around each hook, but clockwise around all four of them (please have a look at the pictures, it's hard to explain with words, but very easy to see :-) )\n4. When you reach your first hook again, keep the wool tight and above your loop.\n5. Use your wire (or crochet hook) to move the loop from the bottom and guide it over the hook. Your tightened wool is now the \"new loop\"\n6. Continue with the next hook\n7. Repeat until you reach the desired lenght.\n8. Then cut off your wool at 10cm/4'' and instead of creating a new loop with your wool, pull the loose end through the loops and take them of the hooks\nStep 4: But I Don't Have a 3d Printer\nWell, but maybe you have an old big pen, or another small diameter tube (should be a diameter around 10mm/0.4'')\n1. Cut your wire and form it into u-shapes (you need 4 \"U\"s\n2. Take apart your pen\n3. Tape the \"U\"s in an equal distance onto your tube\n4. Secure the ends with more tape\n5. Bend the closed part of the \"U\"s a little bit apart\n6.", "316" ] ]

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[ [ "How can the shortest traveling salesman tour be found in $O(2^n poly(n))$ time and less than exponential space?\nI'm stuck on problem 9.4 from The Nature of Computation which reads:\nDynamic Salesman. A naive search algorithm for TSP takes $O(n!)$ time to check all tours. Use dynamic programming to reduce this to a simple exponential, i.e., to solve TSP in $O(2^npoly(n))$ time. Can you do this without using an exponential amount of memory? Hint: work out Problems 3.31 and 3.32.\nThe first part is relatively straightforward. Given a graph, a set of previously visited vertices, a start vertex, and a target vertex, go through all neighbors of the start vertex that haven't been visited already and recursively solve the TSP starting from the neighbor. Then add the distance between start and neighbor to each and return the minimum. The base case, which returns $0$, occurs when $start = target$ and all vertices have been visited.\nThere are $2^n$ possible inputs for the set of previously visited vertices and $n^2$ possibilities for the start and target vertices. Since each call performs $O(n)$ work we get a dynamic programming algorithm with time complexity $O(2^n \\cdot n^2 \\cdot n) = O(2^npoly(n))$.\nThe tricky part is the exponential amount of memory, since the cache used by dynamic programming might grow exponentially large. What do the hints suggest? Problem 3.31 asked to solve Hamiltonian Path in $2^npoly(n)$ time, which could be done with the same idea I presented just now.\nProblem 3.32 is more promising. It asked to show that the number of Hamiltonian paths from $s$ to $t$ can be computed in $2^npoly(n)$ time and $poly(n)$ space by evaluating the following expression:\n$$\\sum_{S\\subseteq V}(-1)^{|S|}|q(S)|,$$\nwhere $q(S)$ is the set of paths from $s$ to $t$ of length $n-1$ not visiting any vertex in $S$.", "180" ], [ "($|q(S)|$ can be computed relatively easily by iterating the adjacency matrix of $V\\setminus S \\quad n-1$ times.)\nTo prove this claim first observe that the number of Hamiltonian paths can be expressed like so:\n$$|q(\\emptyset)| - |\\bigcup_{v_i}q({v_i})|$$\nwhich is the total number of paths minus the number of non-Hamiltonian paths, i.e. the paths not visiting some vertex $v_i$ (all of length $n-1$). Using the inclusion-exclusion-principle the second term can be rewritten as\n$$|\\bigcup_{v_i}q({v_i})| = -\\sum_{S\\subseteq V\\setminus \\emptyset}(-1)^{|S|}|\\bigcap_{v_i\\in S}q({v_i})|$$\nSome further thought will then reveal the equivalence $q(A) \\cap q(B) = q(A \\cup B)$. (A path that avoids everything in $A$ and everything in $B$ also avoids everything in the union of $A$ and $B$. Similarly a path that avoids everything in $A$ or $B$ also avoids everything in $A$ and everything in $B$.)\nWith this our expression then becomes\n$$|q(\\emptyset)| + \\sum_{S\\subseteq V\\setminus \\emptyset}(-1)^{|S|}|q(S)| = \\sum_{S\\subseteq V}(-1)^{|S|}|q(S)|\\qquad \\Box$$\nSo how does this help finding the shortest traveling salesman tour? I see two options. Either use the algorithm laid out just now as a subroutine. Or reuse the ideas from the proof.\nThe first option seems pretty fruitless to me. Any instance of TSP that isn't defined on a fully connected graph can be converted to such an instance by adding in the missing edges with astronomically large weights. Counting the number of Hamiltonian paths on any subset $S$ of such a graph then becomes trivially easy. Every permutation of vertices is a Hamiltonian path so it's $|S|!$. Problem 3.32 seems of absolutely no help then.", "180" ] ]

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[ [ "Layered Plywood Monitor Stand\nIntroduction: Layered Plywood Monitor Stand\nAs I spent more time working from home, I started to realize I really needed a monitor stand. However, finding one that fit my desk, was the right height, and looked the way I wanted proved to be harder than I thought. So I decided to make my own!\nI wanted to make the stand with as few materials as possible. Ideally, I would have made it with just plywood; no glue, no nails, and no varnish or stain. However, I wasn't a huge fan of my early designs, since they all used plywood fasteners that weren't flush with the outer faces. Since plywood is made with glue anyway, I decided to bend my rule a little and use some wood glue to hold everything together.\nI've been using the stand for the past month, and I couldn't be happier with it! I designed it to help with my cable management as well; the cutaways on the sides are meant to hold my various cords in place.\nSupplies\nMaterials\n- 1/4\" plywood\n- Wood glue\n- Felt pads (optional)\nTools\n- Rotary tool with wood cutting wheel or hand saw\n- Sandpaper\n- Two 3\" (or greater) C-clamps\n- Two to three 9\" (or greater) bar clamps (or one bar clamp and a workbench with a large built-in vise)\n- Laser cutter, CNC/manual milling machine, or a jigsaw/bandsaw/hand saw and lots of patience!\nStep 1: Set Dimensions\nThis really depends on what you're looking for; you might want something taller or wider than I did. However, there are three key dimensions everyone will need to consider:\nMonitor base diameter (or depth and width): decides the minimum depth and width of the top of your stand\nStand height: personal preference; it's recommended that the top of your monitor be directly at, or slightly below, eye level\nStand base width: depends on the space on your desk and the design you want; more on that later!\nFor me, the key dimensions were:\nMonitor base diameter: 8 1/4\"\nStand height: 3 1/2\"\nStand base width: 18 1/3\"\nStep 2: Design the Stand & Prepare the Data\nI've attached a .pdf of my design; if you want to use it, feel free! Note that the drawing scale is ANSI C, and the sheet size should be 17\" x 22\". The \"D\" pieces are the support pegs, and do not need to be duplicated for cutting; you only need four total.\nHow you design the stand depends on how you plan to make it. If you'll use a scroll saw, band saw, or hand tools, you can either use CAD or sketch the design on a piece of paper.", "415" ], [ "However, if you plan on using a CNC milling machine or laser cutter, you'll need to design in CAD. Since there are so many programs available, I'll just provide a rough guideline for designing the stand and preparing the data for laser cutting.\nDesigning & Preparing:\n- Figure out how many layers of plywood you'll need for the stand. You can do this by dividing the monitor base diameter from the previous step by the thickness of the plywood you're using. For example, I was using 1/4\" plywood, and my monitor base diameter was 8 1/4\", so I needed 8.25 / 0.25 = 33 layers.\n- Decide how you want the stand to look; do you want it to be a continuous shape with identical layers, or do you want to have different profiles? I wanted to use two alternating profiles; a solid one made from the \"A\" pieces and one with \"cutaways\" made from the \"B\" & \"C\" pieces.\n- If you want different profiles, you need to decide how many pieces you'll need for each profile and the thickness of each profile. This depends on how easily you can break the total number of layers you need into whole numbers. Note that you need an odd total number of profiles, otherwise the two outer-most faces won't be the same.\n- I had 33 total layers. Since 33 is divisible by 11 and 3, I could either have 11 profiles that were 3 x 0.25 = 3/4\" thick, or 3 profiles that were 11 x 0.25 = 2 3/4\" thick. I chose to have 11 profiles; six made from piece \"A\" and five made from pieces \"B\" & \"C\", with two \"C\" pieces per profile.\n- Use a CAD program (Fusion 360, AutoCAD, etc.) to sketch the pieces you'll need. Export as either a .dxf or .pdf.\n- Convert the .", "215" ] ]

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[ [ "Brunei and the music of <PERSON> · Global Voices\nToday's advent of information technology has provided citizens with more opportunities to access and embrace various types of music around the world. <PERSON>, a Swedish national of Lebanese descent, visited Brunei early this month as part of a world tour to introduce his music to his fans. According to Wikipedia,\n“His first album ‘Thank You Allah’ of 13 tracks and two bonus songs was released on 1 November 2009. His music videos on youtube has collectively gained more than 4 million of views.”\nThe video shows <PERSON> singing one of his popular songs, ‘Barakallah Lakuma’, which was welcomed by his Brunei fans during a meet and greet session organised by Athirah Management.\n<PERSON>, who is popular with Islamic inspirational songs, made several radio interviews in Brunei. According to Pelangi FM DJ and blogger <PERSON>, <PERSON> confirmed that he has 107,000 fans from Brunei alone on his Facebook page, out of more than 700,000 fans globally.\n<PERSON> blogged about the radio interview:\n“Fans of <PERSON>, an influential figure from Lebanon, stormed in at Radio Televisyen Brunei recently to capture the moments with the global sensation, according to a deejay working at RTB, DJ <PERSON>. <PERSON> inspirational music video on YouTube, ‘Insha-allah’ has gained a remarkable one million views. During a short interview over Facebook chat, <PERSON> also mentioned that <PERSON> is a ‘very inspirational figure to everyone…especially to the youth’. He added, “Other international artists had to bow down and give way to him especially our local charts at Pelangi FM.’ <PERSON> interview on Pelangi FM will surely leave a legacy in Brunei, and as we speak the interview is now history.”\n<PERSON> saw <PERSON> making a huge impact in Brunei, especially among the youth\n“With just a span of two weeks, the initial hype was more than enough to spread the awareness that a music icon <PERSON> will be in Brunei Darussalam for a meet-the-fan session. My Twitter and Facebook responses have been phenomenal after I announced that he will be coming to Brunei officially.”\n<PERSON> also had the opportunity to interview the celebrity about his impressions on Brunei and his many fans. Twitterians fielded these questions\n<PERSON>: I read in one of your interviews that you were lost in “music” at one stage. Can you explain more?\n<PERSON>: I felt something was missing. I was thinking a lot. I went back to Sweden and my friends brought me to the mosque in Stockholm.", "23" ], [ "Then my heart just opened for the brothers and I'm glad Allah guided me and I felt very happy. It took some time for me to adjust when I stopped my music and my work for a while. Then I realised that maybe I can help and do something with my experience to convey a good message, my thoughts, my feelings through music. From there, I contacted my record company Awakening Records and the rest was history.\n<PERSON>: Do you have problems entering western countries such as the U.S? (Question by @zul277)\n<PERSON>: <PERSON>, so far there's no problem. If they actually listen to my music, we are trying to show a good picture about Islam. My music has a lot of happiness, about love, humanity etc. I have been to the United States a few times and I will be having a few tours in the States this year. So far so good.\n<PERSON>: What inspires you to be in the music scene? (Question by s_a_m1995)\n<PERSON>: I wanted to share what I've heard and experienced and I wanted to thank Allah and hence the album is called Thank You Allah. There's always a lot of inspiration from doing a good thing. I want to convey a message and inspire people.\n<PERSON>: When is the next album? What can the fans expect?\n<PERSON>: The second album will be slightly different but it will have more messages on Islamic issues, motherhood, friendship etc. It's like a package. The next album will be released some time next year and insyaAllah, there will be different languages like the current ones in iTunes and this is because we have a big community from different races. This shows that Islam is big, not only Arabs.\nRandomly techno and Kinsella blogged about how the songs of <PERSON> are touching the lives of many people. UBDStudentaffairs also blogged about <PERSON> visit to the Uni's Radio Station.", "820" ] ]

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[ [ "It's not the lack of oxygen so much as the accumulation of CO2 that we would notice first. And that would happen far sooner than we would notice the lack of oxygen, per se. (I'm addressing when the average human would experience a difference in daily life, not whether scientists would notice the atmosphere changing, something that would take very little time.)\nToday, atmospheric CO2 is around 0.04% worldwide. If plants stop synthesizing CO2 into glucose (photosynthesis) and the atmospheric CO2 level rises to just 0.5%, we would notice its effect on our daily routine almost immediately.\nFor example, at 0.5% ambient CO2, astronauts on the ISS \"experienced headaches, lethargy, mental slowness, emotional irritation, and sleep disruption\" (source). At 1% CO2, we would notice our bodies reflexively trying to breathe better. We can survive CO2 levels between 1% and 2% for only about one month.", "279" ], [ "We would survive for 1 week at 3.5%, and 8 hours at 4.5%. Medically, the resulting condition of too much carbon dioxide in the blood is called hypercapnia. I understand that this occurs because CO2 does not leave our bloodstream efficiently when the partial pressure of CO2 in our lungs is too high. (Chemists, feel free to correct me.)\nHow long would this take? A rough calculation:\nMass of atmospheric O2: 1.4 × 1018 kg O2 (Table 1)\nMass of atmospheric CO2: 1.4 × 1018 x (0.04/20.9) x (44/32) = 3.7 x 1015 kg CO2\n[The line above converts current O2 mass to current CO2 mass via two ratios: their relative % of the atmosphere, and their relative molar masses.]\nAnnual oxygen production: 3 x 1014 kg O2 (Table 2)\nOne year of respirated CO2 not converted back to O2 via photosynthesis: 3 x 1014 kg O2 x (44/32) = 4.1 x 1014 kg CO2. (This is the annual increase in CO2 if there is no natural production of oxygen.)\nCO2 is now 0.04% of the atmosphere. It needs to grow by a factor of 12.5x to reach 0.5%, by which point we would certainly feel the effects (see ISS astronauts above).\nThis requires adding 11.5 x 3.7 x 1015 = 4.25 x 1016 kg CO2 in total.\nAt an increase of 4.1 x 1014 kg/yr CO2, this would take 104 years.\nShort answer: We would all suffer \"headaches, lethargy, mental slowness, emotional irritation, and sleep disruption\" no later than 104 years from now. In reality, people already experience these things after a couple of hours in closed bedrooms, offices, and meeting rooms with poor ventilation, as ambient CO2 increases, so such problems would become commonplace far sooner than a century.\nSo without technological intervention (say, reducing CO2 levels indoors), we would suffer serious effects even with abundant oxygen all around us.\nIt would be analogous to floating in a lifeboat in the middle of the Pacific: \"Water, water everywhere, and not a drop to drink.\"", "279" ] ]

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[ [ "I'm no electrical engineer and my last training in safety around voltages is ages back. I will answer the question according to the wording it had in the first versions:\nMany people now practice \"earthing\", physically linking themselves to the earth ground plug of their home's electrical system. They go as far as sleeping on mesh wire sheets plugged into ground to protect from stray EMF. [...] If a hot wire from, say, a washing machine, suddenly shorts to its chassis, doesn't that route to ground, and isn't our happy \"earther\" suddenly now part of a deadly circuit involving the hot wire?\nBasically, yes. As pointed out in <PERSON> answer, all or most devices with a conducting chassis have this grounded for safety reasons. In these cases, it should make little difference if the person is grounded.However ...\nLet's look at another scenario: Your alarm clock is (not your cell phone but) an older model with an AC connection. You managed to damage the cable near where it enters the (plastic) chassis and touch the live wire when fumbling for the thing one early morning.\nCase 1) You are not grounded in any special way, but lying on a cotton sheet on some mattress on a wooden bed.", "75" ], [ "Resistance for electric current to the ground will be very high. Electrically, you are - grossly simplified - now a capacitor connected to an alternating current via a 1k$\\Omega$ resistor (your arm).\nCase 2) Same as before but you lie on a grounded mesh. This time you are a 1k$\\Omega$ resistor between the live wire and ground. Far more current will flow.\nHigh resistance towards grounding plays a minor role in safety around eletricity. The normal case is that a device is built safely as described. For work on electrical equipment, there's 5 basic rules:\n* switch the power supply to the device you work on off\n* secure it against switching on,\n* confirm by measurement that there's indeed no voltage\n* first ground then short circuit the live wires so if the device is switched on the circuit breaker will engage\n* cover nearby devices, if still connected to power supply\nSo you consider how not to touch a life wire in the first place, not about where the current will go when you do or what the resistance is. The only instance I know of where this was given serious consideration is safety shoes, these need a high resistance according to the relevant industry codes.", "71" ] ]

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[ [ "This is a very difficult problem, I try to explain why.\nIn statistical mechanics, tending to the most probable distribution is a probability event, and for <PERSON>' entropy, $dS\\ge 0$ is also a probability event but not an inevitable result. So you can’t prove $dS\\ge 0$ as an inevitable result from statistical mechanics.\nIf we want to obtain the mathematical proof of the second law from thermodynamics, we must consider the mathematical proof of the entropy first, as a state function. <PERSON>’ definition $dS=δQ/T$ cannot be proven in mathematics, as an exact differential, so the definition $dS=δQ/T$ can only depend on imaginary reversible cycles. On the other hand, in <PERSON> or <PERSON> approaches, the expressions of the entropy are the mathematical equations but not the definition of a physical concept because the equation contains the difference of functions (please see bellow, <PERSON>’s equation), the physical image of the entropy and both the second law are not clear, that is why we cannot explain the physical meaning of entropy according to these approaches. In such case, to prove the second law in mathematics will be very difficult, it is not an isolated problem.\nThe following are the some steps of the link paper, the paper introduce a new approach, and the new statement on the second law can be considered as an axiom.\n1) According to the fundamental equation of thermodynamics (<PERSON>’s equation).\n\\begin{align} dS=\\frac{dU}{T}-\\frac{Ydx}{T}-\\sum_j\\frac{\\mu_jdN_j}{T}+\\frac{pdV}{T}.\\end{align}\n2) Define the function that\n\\begin{align}dq=dU-Ydx-\\sum_j\\mu_jdN_j.\\end{align}\nHere $dq$ can be proven as an exact differential in mathematics, the physical meaning of $q$ is the heat energy within the system.", "273" ], [ "(but not the heat in transfer $Q$)\n3) Such that we get\n\\begin{align}dS=\\frac{dq}{T}+\\frac{pdV}{T}.\\end{align}\nHere $dS$ can be proven as an exact differential in mathematics.\n4) Consider an interaction between the two locals, then we can get the total differential of the entropy production.\n\\begin{align}d_iS=\\nabla \\left(\\frac{1}{T}\\right)dq+\\frac{1}{T}\\nabla Ydx+\\sum_j\\frac{1}{T}\\nabla \\mu_jdN_j+\\nabla \\left(\\frac{p}{T}\\right)dV.\\end{align}\nThis is a non- equilibrium thermodynamic equation.\n5) Prove the total differential of the entropy production $d_iS\\ge0$.\nThe new statement of the second law: \"irreversibility root in a fundamental principle: the gradients of the four thermodynamic forces spontaneously tend to zero\".\nThe four gradients of thermodynamic forces are \\begin{align} \\nabla \\left(\\frac{1}{T}\\right),\\,\\,\\,\\, \\nabla Y,\\,\\,\\,\\, \\nabla \\mu_j,\\,\\,\\,\\, \\nabla \\left(\\frac{p}{T}\\right). \\end{align}\nThe conditions of thermodynamic equilibrium are these four gradients equal to zero.\nPlease compare the different statements about the second law, and see which statement can be considered as an axiom. 1)-4) are quoted from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_law_of_thermodynamics\n1) <PERSON> statement\n* Heat can never pass from a colder to a warmer body without some other change, connected therewith, occurring at the same time Heat can never pass from a colder to a warmer body without some other change, connected therewith, occurring at the same time.\n2) <PERSON> statement\n* It is impossible, by means of inanimate material agency, to derive mechanical effect from any portion of matter by cooling it below the temperature of the coldest of the surrounding objects.\n3) <PERSON>'s statement\n* Every process occurring in nature proceeds in the sense in which the sum of the entropies of all bodies taking part in the process is increased. In the limit, i.e. for reversible processes, the sum of the entropies remains unchanged.", "749" ] ]

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[ [ "BB-8 Droid SMD Components Box\nIntroduction: BB-8 Droid SMD Components Box\nHere's something cool in a galaxy far far away.\nSo I Made a BB-8 Droid Themed SMD components case/Box for keeping important stuff neatly organizes inside this Droid container.\nThe idea for this project pops into my mind while I was cleaning my desk and watching star wars force awaken.\n(not a fan of that particular movie but whatever)\nAs a maker, we all have this issue of keeping important SMD components safe but for that, we need an electronic component box or a Polycarbonate Jewelry box. Most of the time these boxes are already filled with stuff so I thought why not make my own with 3D Printing.\nSo I searched for containers for SMD components on Thingiverse but I couldn't find an existing model so I made my own version by modeling the container after BB-8 Bot.\nIn this Instructables, I'm gonna show you guys how I made this container in few easy steps.\nLet's get started!\nSupplies\n* PLA Filament Orange and Grey (or white)\n* Patience\n* Truss 2.5mm x 5mm screw\n* 3D Printer\nStep 1: Basic Intro\nSo the Beebee-Ate or BB was a BB-series astromech droid that operated approximately thirty years after the Battle of Endor.\nHe had a dome head, similar to that of R2 series astromech droids, with the bulk of his body made up of a ball on which the droid's head rolled. BB-8 was mostly white, with some silver and orange on his body, as well as a black photoreceptor.\nHis first appearance was in the Star Wars: The Force Awakens (2015). He later appeared in the other two films of the sequel trilogy, Star Wars: The Last Jedi (2017), and Star Wars: The Rise of Skywalker (2019).\nApart from the whole lore of star wars, this BB-8 Droid is one of the cutest characters in the whole series, It's basically a rolling ball droid with his head not permanently attached to the upper part, its head stays on with magnets.\nBut this Instructables isn't about making a BB Robot, it's about making a dumber version of the BB-8 Bot which isn't related to robotics at all.\nSMD Components Box which is modeled after BB-8 Droid.\nFor this project, I first searched a BB Droid side view image which can be used for tracing it in any Cad software.\nStep 2: Fusion360 Editing Part\nAs For the Modeling Part, I used Fusion360 for this project.\n* First, I imported the image of Droid in the sketch environment and first calibrated the image to set the size of the image to 80mm wide.\n* then sketch its outline with a three-point arc and splines.\n* I made the base first and then modeled the lines inside the base afterward.\n* Then after making the base, I molded its Lid by copying the bottom outlines on the top side, the thickness of Lid is 1.5mm and the lines are just a few more millimeters extruded in length to give this whole structure a 3D Feel.\n* On one side, I made a stopping pin in the base so the lid only can rotate in one direction.\n* In the end, I exported the 3D Files for 3D Printing in 3mf format.\nI've added the Fusion360 files for this project so you can even edit this project completely according to your preferences.\nStep 3: 3D PRINTING\nAs for 3D Printing the parts, I used two different colors for making this project more aesthetically pleasing.\nTwo-color tone Orange and grey look pretty nice together.\nBoth Filaments are PLA and I printed both of the bodies with the same parameters which are-\n* Nozzle used- 0.5mm Nozzle\n* Infill- 20%\n* Layer Height - 0.2mm\n* Speed - 50\n* Wall thickness - 1.5mm\n* No support required\n* No built place Adhesion\nStep 4: Assembly\nThe Assembly of this project is pretty simple, like really really really simple.\nI added a 2.5mm x 5mm Truss Head screw in the screw mount from the TOP lid side and that was pretty much the assembly part.\nOnly one screw is needed.\nThis Screw acts as a rotation Pin for the LID and Body, it keeps the LID permanently attached to the body and lets it rotate freely as well.\nStep 5: Placing Stuff in It\nAll the empty same in the Bottom Part is to be used for keeping SMD components safe and well organized.", "949" ] ]

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[ [ "Some scattered thoughts -- In a glass world - I imagine some form of silicon based life. The storms you describe remind me of sand-blasting and the kinds of rubbery materials used to block off the particles. This suggests the creature or being would have a silicone skin that constantly grows and sheds in tiny piece somewhat like our own skin. Glass though hard is also very brittle and it will fracture. You could make the temperature of your world near or within temperature ranges where the glass is close to changing from solid to liquid. That might offer properties where less energy is needed to affect the glass either to melt it or to initiate a fracture. At higher temperatures your creature or being might need a sapphire based skin or outer shell. Due to the high viscosity of glass at lower temperature ranges of melt physical movement through liquid glass would be extremely slow and difficult. At higher temperatures your lifeforms would require something like a sapphire shell and ways to cool itself.", "561" ], [ "There are special types of glass that melt at low temperatures -- lead crystal for example. There is even a special type of glass formulated with Vanadium that has an extremely low melt temperature. It's used for hermetic sealing electronic components. Actually glass comes in hundreds of different formulations with a wide range of properties. My mind jumped to the idea of a silicone sea on a base of glass heated from the center of the planet as well as from its sun. I don't recall why the Earth's core is hot -- but there are several ways to imagine a heated core. I recall some of the moons of Jupiter or Saturn have heated cores. Suppose your lifeforms do not move about but incorporates structures into the glass mountains to expand and replicate itself. Perhaps your glass grew as a kind of miniature spaghetti of glass fibers your light based creatures might modify it to assemble themselves as a giant optical computer. Maybe a natural lasing action provides energy the creatures can use -- something analogous to the hydrothermal vents in our oceans.", "561" ] ]

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[ [ "How can I make the premise of e.g. a short story more real?\nAs far as my motivation in writing goes, I have long been frustrated about historical fiction I’ve read where the main character is basically an American dressed up in a cloak and armor.\nThe Caryatid: A Work of Hysterical Fiction is an intended parody that reverses this habit and is set here and now with a character internally from another century. The humor, besides silly name-dropping of brands, consists in historical misportrayals of today (for instance, an aged fleet of personal transportation drones above new streetcars sparking overhead), and is based on bad historical fiction, and bad history, that I have read.\nHow can I cue the reader to see the intended pretentious narrator bloopers, for instance that the first of two divergent descriptions of an Apple Watch as having “a small, circular face” represent bloopers on the part of an incompetent fictional narrator?\n--UPDATE--\nI am editing the story and it may be very different if you are reading this. For archival purposes, here is the text:\nOct 7, 2020. Anytown, USA. <PERSON> looked at her Apple Watch, a watch with a small, circular face that wore lightly on her wrist. Then, not long after, she looked at her iPhone, totally absorbed as she spent deliberate time on each social network: first Facebook, then Twitter, then Amazon. It was the last that offered the richest social interaction.\nShe put the iPhone in her pocket and walked, slowly, down the same path she walked each day. What time was it? The ninth hour? No, that was long past. She looked in the sky. She walked in the rhythm of the day, as each day, each week, each year was a sacred rhythm and each room its own place: organizing icons by date would never had occurred to people.\nEveryone sat or stood in an odd, contorted position that gave <PERSON> no end of puzzlement. Her octagonal circle of an Apple Watch, whose band was constantly shifting in color, kept her mesmerized. She puzzled that the boys had made such a big deal over seeing a Ford Ferrari; she certainly didn’t believe that a flimsy mask was any reason not to give someone a snuggle.\nShe moved without causing a bird alarm, and was perennially astonished, less that others moved in a way that caused a bird alarm, but that not one head turned when there was a bird alarm. Sometimes she even wondered if the others did not even have a concept of what a bird alarm was.\nThings had certainly gotten more complicated with time.", "624" ], [ "The road had for ages been shared between pedestrian man and horse. Now, decades after automobiles had taken root, it had to be shared between man, horse, and car. Aged drones carried humans across established routes, and new trolleys sparked against wires overhead. At least bikes had their own lane in which to thunder.\nYet she viewed things differently. Her understanding was entirely concrete, or at least dressed in the concrete. It was a capital intellectual day when she heard answered the question, “How many angels can dance on the head of a pin?”, a question which involved whether angels have bodies that exclude the presence of other bodies, or whether multiple angels could be present in the same space—with the consequence that an infinite, and not only a finite, number of angels could dance on the head of a pin. But nobody could understand this. Infidel! How many postmoderns can dunce on a pinhead?\nThe quest of angels was a beautiful image. She lived in a world where the saints were more real than those walking, and in which as a child she had seen her guardian angel. She lived in a world where an icon was a “window of heaven” and an open window at that. And she lived in a world that, though she only attended church a few times per year, a great towering presence hid behind that figure.\nShe had been gathering herbs in a field, and had gone some distance afar, though near a 7-11.\n“How to get home?” she thought. She had gathered a lot.\nThen she reached into her pocket, pulled out her iPhone Pro, pulled up the Uber app, and ordered a shared ride.\n--ADDITIONAL UPDATE--\nI have revised my story as follows:\nFrom <PERSON> to <PERSON>, grace: I send your excellence my manuscript, as revised again, and have returned the Imaginarium. I have tried to envision what life was really like in The Setting, but yet also keep things contemporary. Please send my boots and cloak by my nephew.\nHere is the story:\nOct 8, 2020, Anytown, USA.\n<PERSON> looked at the sky.", "820" ] ]

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[ [ "Stomach Parasites in Kitten\nHi so I recently got my first pet, a 3ish month old kitten, and she got tested and has 3 different stomach parasites, Giardia duodenalis, Giardia zoonotic, and cystoisospora spp. The vet gave me 3 liquid medications to give her, panacur, albon, and metronidazole. She gave me a plan to give my kitten Shade doses of each medication every day in her food for a month but I was wondering will the medication by itself definitely take care of the parasites, cuz I read online that for Giardia you gotta constantly clean the litter box with disinfectant and every single surface the cat is exposed to, change sheets constantly and also regularly bathe the cat or she’ll easily just get infected again. Is that really necessary or will <PERSON> be fine with just the medication?\nThank you for reading all that if you did and if it’s important <PERSON> never actually showed any symptoms of the parasites, no diarrhea or vomiting, and she’s also a single pet.", "664" ] ]

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[ [ "Fallen\nHorror Harvest 2023\nThought this was kind of mediocre when I saw it in the theater back in the day... and I still kind of do, but in the best way possible.\nIt's more engaging than I remember and <PERSON> (as always is really great). I always forget how good <PERSON> is even outside of his <PERSON> performance in Lebowski.\nThe premise here is a little corny and probably easy to nitpick and pull apart but it makes for great suspense and atmosphere. Sort of one of those \"what would I do in this situation\" type of movies.\nAlso it really nails the ending.\nHorror Harvest 2022\nHorror Harvest 2021\nHorror Harvest 2020\nHorror Harvest 2019\nHorror Harvest 2018", "241" ] ]

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[ [ "Read the full review with pictures on our blog: https://hesaidshesaidgames.com/2017/10/09/game-review-photos...\nIn a small forest, several varieties of trees compete to grow and spread their seeds. As trees grow, leaves that are exposed to the sun and cast shadows on smaller trees around it. Over time, the larger trees will reach the end of their life cycle, falling to create room for new trees to grow in the small forest.\nDesigner: <PERSON>\nArtist: <PERSON>\nPublisher: Blue Orange Games\nGenre: Area Control, Abstract\nPlayers: 2-4\nPlay Time: 30-60 Minutes\nNumber of Logged Plays: 4\nGame Overview\nIn Photosynthesis, players will be controlling a species of tree growing in a small forest. Players will try to position their trees in the forest to gather the most sunlight, even if that means blocking opponents’ trees from gathering precious sunlight. Sunlight will be turned into light points that can be used to get more trees, seeds, spread seeds, and grow trees.\nLight points will vary quite a bit as the sun rotates around the board, so players will have to decide when is the best time to do certain actions. The goal of the game is to get the most amount of victory points, which can be gained by putting a tree through its full life cycle. After three full rotations of the sun around the board, the game will end and the player with the most points is the winner.\nGame Play\nPhotosynthesis starts with sun segment being placed on the sun symbol on the board and players taking turns placing a small tree on any open space on the outer ring of the board. The remaining two seeds, two small trees, and one medium tree are placed in the player’s available for use area in front of them. The game is now ready to begin. Each round in Photosynthesis takes place over two phases:\nPhotosynthesis Phase\nThe player with the first player token will move the sun to the next position in a clockwise direction. (This step is skipped in the first round).\nEach player then gains light points for any trees that aren’t in the shadow of another tree (Only a maximum of 20 Light Points can be stored).\n- Small Trees = 1 Light Point\n- Medium Trees = 2 Light Points\n- Large Trees = 3 Light Points\nLife Cycle Phase\nDuring this phase, players will spend their light points to perform actions starting with the first player. The number of light points required by each action is listed on the player board.", "581" ], [ "The possible actions a player can take are below:\nBuying – Buy trees and plants off of their player board and put them into their available for use area in front of them.\nPlanting a Seed – Plant a seed from their available area onto the board from an existing tree. The distance a seed can be placed away from a tree is based on what size it is:\n- Small Tree – 1 space away\n- Medium Tree – 2 spaces away\n- Large Tree – 3 spaces away\nGrowing A Tree – Grow a seed into a tree or grow a tree to the next size up. Only trees from a player’s available area can be used to grow seeds and trees. When a tree is grown to the next level, the smaller version of that tree is returned back to the player board to the topmost spot of the corresponding column. If there are no available spaces for it, then it is removed from the game (this will be the case for the starting seeds and trees players begin the game with).\nCollecting – Once a tree is at it’s largest size, it can be collected for points. The large tree will be removed from the board and placed back on the player’s board (topmost open spot of the corresponding column) and the player will take a scoring token with the same symbol that the Large Tree was growing on.\nPlayers can perform any of those actions as many times as they want as long as they have the light points to pay for it. The only thing players need to keep in mind is that a space on the board can only be activated once per turn. So if you plant a seed, the tree the seed came from and the space the seed is planted on would both be activated for the round. The tree wouldn’t be able to be grown this turn to the next level because that would require activating the space again. This also prevents growing the same tree twice in one round as well.\nOnce the sun has gone around the board three times (18 rounds), the game is over. Players will add the points up they receive from the score tokens and will also get points for every three unused light points. The player with the most points is the winner!\nAdvanced Variant\nThe advanced variant adds one more sun rotation to the game which extends the game out to 24 rounds.", "597" ] ]

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[ [ "I2C Blynk Car With Attiny85 and M5StickC\nIntroduction: I2C Blynk Car With Attiny85 and M5StickC\nThis project shows you how to build your own I2C DC motor drive using a DigiSpark Attiny85 plus Arduino motor shield. To test its operation, I made a small RC car which used an M5StickC & connected to Blynk App. to communicate with this drive via the I2C protocol.\nPlease check my introduction video before getting started.\nStep 1: Supplies\nFirst of all, I would like to thank the JLCPCB for supporting me on this project. If you have a PCB project, please visit the JLCPCB website to get exciting discounts and coupons as follows:\n* JLCPCB PCB Prototype only $2.\n* Get $24 Register Coupon here: jlcpcb.com/cyt\na. Main materials:\n⦾ 1pcs x M5StickC.\n⦾ 1pcs x DigiSpark ATTiny85.\n⦾ 1pcs x Quad DC Motor Driver Shield for Arduino.\n⦾ 4pcs x Small DC Gear Motor with Wheel. I've reused 4pcs x Micro DC Motor in the CD/DVD players and 4 wheels from toy cars, but it's better to go with geared motors with wheel.\n⦾ 1pcs x LM2596S 3A Adjustable Step-down DC-DC Power Supply Module.\n⦾ 2pcs x Double Sided DIY Protoboard Circuit 7x9cm.\n⦾ 1pcs x Arduino Uno Protoshield.\n⦾ 1pcs x 2 Slot Battery 18650 Holder.\n⦾ 2pcs x Rechargeable Li-ion Battery 18650.\n⦾ 4pcs x Male & Female Header.\n⦾ 4pcs x Copper Standoff Spacers 20mm.\n⦾ 1 meter x 8P/16P Rainbow Ribbon Cable.\n⦾ 2 pcs x R10K.\n⦾ 1pcs x XH2.54mm – 4P 10cm Wire Cable Double Connector.\n⦾ 1pcs x Grove Connector.\n⦾ 1 meter x Two Core Power Cable.\n⦾ Cable spiral wrap, bolts and nuts.\nb.", "375" ], [ "Tools:\n⦾ Hot glue gun.\n⦾ Soldering machine.\nStep 2: Schematic\nMain control components include: M5StickC, DigiSpark Attiny85, DFRobot Quad DC Motor Driver Shield for Arduino. And their connection is as below:\nI used two communications in this project to control four DC motors of a RC car:\n* M5StickC gets Blynk joystick command from smartphone via WIFI and converts it to car direction and speed.\n* After that M5StickC transmits these converted commands to Attiny85 via I2C protocol. Finally, after receiving command, Attiny85 send its output signals to Quad motor shield to control direction and speed of car DC motors.\nNotes:\n* In the schematic, I used 2 pull-up resistors R10K on the SDA and SCL line.\n* For the quad motor shield, I connected each group consisting of 2 DC motors in parallel at the M1 & M2 screw terminals. DIR signal of motor M1 & M2 has been connected together at motor shield pin 4 & 12. So I have controlled four DC motors with only 3 signals.\nStep 3: Car Assembly\nAfter using stepper motors for mini CNC projects, there are still some DC motors left in the CD/DVD player. They are used to insert or eject CD/ DVD plastic tray.\nI disassembled four DC motors, soldered them on the double sided protoboard 7x9cm.\nI found some wheels from small toy cars that have a center bore equal to the 2mm motor shaft diameter.\nI used another protoboard 7x9cm then soldered on it a step-down power supply module LM2596, a power switch, a 2-pin screw header and 4 male header groups that match correspondingly to all the pins of the Quad DC Motor Shield for Arduino.\nThe LM2596 output terminals were connected to male headers at pin 5V and GND. It is used to power all the control circuits after I stack all the boards on these headers.\nI connected wires for battery holder, module LM2596, motor shield power supply and 4 DC motors.", "611" ] ]

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[ [ "This answer flows with rather a stream of consciousness and has less a proper essay structure. I hope that it helps you nonetheless — indeed, that's the whole thing I am advocating here: it is easier to begin filling emptiness with the right brain and to tend it later with the left brain — rather like as I said in another of my answers here.\nIf you are any good at writing nonsense or disconnected fragments, then you could attempt that. I do it all the time whether I am writing introductions or simply something which I could possibly use later.\nErgo, there are three situations:\n* You have a concept for project, and you wish to begin producing usable assets.\n* You come up with a scene in your head, or you are walking along a field and are suddenly moved to describe it poetically, or you want to capture an emotion suddenly expressed.\nCarry a notepad or other such device with you at all times.\n* You are in the mood to produce something, but don't have any context or scenario in mind.\nSee this:\nThe air was fetid and cold. My breath turned to a damp cloud which settled back on the open book beneath my face. Somehow, the pages collected that moisture more eagerly than my captive rattigar would lunge for my arm when I feed it carelessly.\nI tilted my head upward so as to renew my watch on the horizon. The line of guardhouses was ever nearer, but my steps toward them were slow and plodded disinterestedly.\nMeh, you get the idea. Some pilgrim is about to take on a new apprenticeship, or maybe a scholar has been summoned to a town to weigh in on some crisis.", "487" ], [ "I don't know.\nIt is a little easier to do that for nothing than it is to do so with the expectation that whatever you write must fit in with something that hasn't been written yet.\nWhen I am writing an introduction, I want to make a hybrid of that such a thing as you read above with persons or scenario already conceived.\nI want to invite a reader slowly, so as to not toss about too many alien names or characteristics, but yet rapidly pull them in to the flow of the narration: I don't want to get them interested in the main character or their motivations yet; I want to get them interested in the setting. When they are interested in the setting, then I can show them how the character of a person contrasts or meshes with that setting. I do this because although a setting is vast, a person is intricate.\nOf course, I usually do all this introducing in less than 7 sentences. The sequence is the necessary thing.\nOftentimes, I will move that introduction to somewhere else, or rewrite it entirely. Not often will I simply delete it, but by the time I decide to do that, I've already written other stuff.\nThat brings me to the next bit of advice: sometimes I will begin writing descriptions or dialogue while I've not yet done a proper introduction.\nDepends on whichever is ready in my imagination.\nThat is where the bit about always writing down those loose fragments comes in handy: if you want to begin a new project, but have some trepidation as to how exactly to plant the seed in the blank page, then you can look through your collection of notes.\nIf you have something there which can be appropriated, then take it and begin. It doesn't need to be the beginning, either. Write in both directions.\nMaybe, with you, it would help to see the blank page as somewhere in the middle, rather than at the beginning of your story.", "487" ] ]

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[ [ "No, I am not compensating you for the room type you reserved\nLong story short, guest was not Happy with the room type they booked from a third-party travel agent website. They stated the room type was not right for their family, and asked for compensation. No! I am not compensating you for the room type YOU booked.", "1015" ], [ "It states on the website the layout of the room, and includes photos. We don't do upgrades at my property unfortunately as we are a timeshare and not a full-service hotel. So what you book is what you get.\nThe travel agent also had the nerve to call us and yell at us for not compensating their guest. How ridiculous", "1015" ] ]

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[ [ "Leather Soled Toddler Slippers\nIntroduction: Leather Soled Toddler Slippers\nWelcome. I am a stay at home mom that loves all things crafty. Instead of buying everything, I like to figure out how to do it myself. That is why I learned to crochet. My instructor was Youtube.\nI also love to be cozy. I have been wearing slippers for as long as I can remember. I like the \"padraig\" style of slippers and they look so cute on babies so I learned how to make them myself. This year I also gifted slippers to some of the people on my list and they were all a big hit.\nI am going to share with you my pattern of how to make slippers with leather soles for a toddler. My toddler's foot is 5 inches long and he is 2 years old. This pattern is quite quick and easy to crochet. It only took me about a half an hour to crochet each slipper.\nStitches Used\nCh - chain\nSt - stitch\nSlst - slip stitch\nSC - single crochet\nHDC - half double crochet\nSC2tog - single crochet two together\nHDC2tog - half double crochet two together\nNOTES:\nAll rows start in the same stitch as the chain stitch in the beginning of each row.\nThe chain stitch at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch.\nThe last slip stitch in each row does not count as a stitch.\nMake sure your slip stitch is nice and tight so the back of the heel looks nice and clean.\nIf you want to make the slippers a bit bigger or smaller, add or subtract evenly to the SC in each row.\nSupplies\nYarn: Super Bulky #6 (I used Lion Brand Yarns in Milwaukee Midnight)\nCrochet Hook Size: 4.5mm hook and 5.0mm hook\nTapestry Needle\nScissors\nLeather Hand Hole Puncher\nLeather scraps\nSherpa like scraps (or something warm and similar)\nRubber Cement Glue\nCording\nFoot template\n*All these supplies can be found at your local craft store.\nStep 1: Making a Template\nFor this step, I measured my toddlers foot. I found out that his foot was 5 inches from top to bottom. So I drew out a foot on a piece of paper that was 5 inches long. There are many foot patterns online. You just need to pick the right size.\nAfter I drew out his foot, I drew the shape approximately 1/4 inch bigger. That way there is space for the holes and the leather will not easily tear.\nNext, I marked the holes to be punched out with the leather hand puncher. These were approximately 1/4 inch apart. I had 36 holes in total. I also marked the middle hole on the heel. That is my starting point for both slippers.\nStep 2: Preparing the Leather Soles\nUsing the template you just made, trace it out on to the smooth side of the leather.", "557" ], [ "You want the suede side to be on the outside for more traction. Also mark the dots. Trace out two for both feet. Make sure you trace the right shapes for the left and right foot. I had to flip my template over for that.\nNext, cut out the leather sole and punch out the holes with the leather hand puncher.\nFor the padding inside, I used a scrap piece of sherpa-like material. Cut out another template of just the inside of the foot where you want the padding to be. Trace that onto the wrong side of the sherpa-like material. Then cut that out.\nUsing the rubber cement glue, paint both the wrong sides of the sole and the padding you just cut out.\nPlace the glue side of the sherpa-like material on top of the leather material and press down.\nYou are now ready to crochet onto your soles.\nStep 3: Crocheting the Slipper Tops\nThis is the pattern for the top of the slippers.\nRow 1: Insert your 4.5mm hook into the hole marked in the middle of the heel of your leather sole. Pull the yarn through. Yarn over and pull through loop. Ch 1. SC in the remaining holes of the sole. Slst to first ch. I weaved in the tail of the yarn as I did the single crochets. You can also weave it in later. (36)\nRow 2: Ch 1, Change hooks size to slightly larger hook (5mm). SC in the same chain space you just put the slst through. SC in the remaining stitch. Slst. (36)\nRow 3: Ch 1, SC, SC2tog, SC in the next 12 sts.", "694" ] ]

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[ [ "The Zone of Interest\nSinglehandedly shatters the film industry’s entire history of exploiting the Holocaust for narrative, right down to attacking every minutiae of cinematic language itself. All of this is in service of the most startling horror, all of which goes unseen. Far and away the single most vital and important movie made this decade thus far.", "269" ], [ "The ending of this left me feeling nauseous and at a loss for words. Contains one of the most striking uses of on screen subtitles I’ve ever seen in any film ever made. Would make for a psychosis inducing double bill with Skinamarink.", "958" ] ]

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[ [ "This is a key plot point: <PERSON> never even thinks of the possibility that the <PERSON> will try to destroy the <PERSON>. He cannot imagine somebody voluntarily giving up that much power. From the book:\n<PERSON>: For he is very wise, and weighs all things to a nicety in the scales of his malice. But the only measure that he knows is desire, desire for power, and so he judges all hearts. Into his heart thought will not enter than any will refuse it, that having the Ring we may seek to destroy it. If we seek this, we shall put him out of his reckoning.\nAfter the Fellowship split, <PERSON> and <PERSON> work hard to maintain this deception. They want <PERSON> to believe that <PERSON> has the Ring.\nWhen <PERSON> uses the Palantir at Isengard, <PERSON> sees a hobbit for a few seconds. He thinks that <PERSON> has captured the Ringbearer.\nAfter <PERSON> is destroyed, <PERSON> uses the Palantir to taunt <PERSON>. From that moment, <PERSON> believes that <PERSON> has the Ring.\n<PERSON> then does exactly what he knows <PERSON> expects him to do if he had the Ring: raise an army and march to the Black Gate to make a frontal assault on Mordor. This was a terrible risk, taken to keep <PERSON>'s attention and forces focused on <PERSON>.\nAnd note one more point: <PERSON> was right. Nobody could voluntarily destroy the Ring.", "773" ], [ "When the time came to throw the Ring into the fire, <PERSON> could not do it. If <PERSON> had not been there, <PERSON> would indeed have succumbed to the <PERSON>'s temptation and tried to wield its power.\nIn a letter to a reader, <PERSON> described what would have happened next. <PERSON> would have immediately sent the eight surviving Nazgul.\nI think they would have shown 'servility'. They would have greeted <PERSON> as 'Lord'. With fair speeches they would have induced him to leave the Sammath Naur [Mount Doom] - for instance 'to look upon his new kingdom, and behold afar with his new sight the abode of power that he must now claim and turn to his own purposes'. Once outside the chamber while he was gazing some of them would have destroyed the entrance. [...] In any case a confrontation of <PERSON> and <PERSON> would soon have taken place, if the Ring was intact. Its result was inevitable. <PERSON> would have been utterly overthrown: crushed to dust, or preserved in torment as a gibbering slave. <PERSON> would not have feared the Ring! It was his own and under his will. <PERSON> Letters 246", "381" ] ]

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[ [ "They don't. No matter where you live, no matter what you do, no matter how low your profile, someone, somewhere will figure out who you are eventually. One person alone can never keep their identity secret forever. Which is why you get somebody else to keep it secret for you. Namely: governments. Now, I know what you're thinking. \"Governments are who you want to hide your identity from!\" Not necissarily right. See, people think of ET. They think shadowy men will come to your house in the dark of the night, take you away, and dissect you while you're conscious. To be fair, if you exist before the 70s or so, they probably will, but only under certain conditions.", "687" ], [ "Governments (theoretically speaking) don't dissect strange people solely because they are strange, but because they believe that by dissecting strange things they can gain access to beneficial information. The way to get the government to stop harassing you is to have something better to offer them than a chance at immortality. What about military leadership that has centuries of experience? What about a brilliant scientist who will never die? Replacing highly skilled dead people is a huge problem for upper level government function. An incredibly high skilled minister, secretary, or official who will never die would be a godsend. And few are better than the government at keeping secrets. Or, you could run down the private sector part of the skill-tree and pay the government not to dissect you. In any country without strict campaign finance laws, it isn't difficult to get the government to do what you want by making sure the people in it know they are there because you put them there and they can be replaced if you want them replaced. Either way, once you hit the late 90's, no government will be interested in doing much more than collecting a blood sample. If your immortal isn't willing to get his arm pricked or his cheek swabbed to give everyone else the same opportunity they have, maybe you've got a bit of a jerk on your hands. Although, that could make for an interesting character.", "238" ] ]

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[ [ "I think that <PERSON> may well have complained to his Father but <PERSON> was too scared of <PERSON> to actually put in a formal complaint against him.\nBy the start of GoF <PERSON> has a reputation for being slightly (understatement) unstable. This is seen at the start of the book with on page 160 when <PERSON> says:\n\"<PERSON> you know Mad-Eye\", said <PERSON> head, rolling it's eyes again. \"Someone creeping into his yard at the dead of night? More likely there's a very shellshocked cat wandering around somewhere, covered in potato peelings. But if the Improper Use of Magic lot get their hands on Mad-Eye he's had it - think of his record - we've got to get him off on something in your department - what are exploding dustbins worth?\"\n\"Might be a caution\" said Mr <PERSON>, still writing very fast, his brow furrowed.", "417" ], [ "\"Made-eye didn't use his wand? He didn't actually attack anyone?\"\n\"I'll bet he leapt out of bed and started jinxing everything he could reach through the window\" said Mr <PERSON>, \"but they'll have a job proving it, there aren't any casualties.\"\nand then later in the book on page 569 when <PERSON> says:\n\"D'you think it's too early to go and see Professor <PERSON>?\" <PERSON> said, as they went down the spiral staircase.\n\"Yes\" said <PERSON>. \"He'd probably blast us through the door if we wake him at the crack of dawn\"\nGiven this, it is probable that <PERSON> is scared that if he complains about <PERSON> then <PERSON> will hunt him down.\nAnother possibility is that transfiguration is not an altogether unusual punishment in the magical community despite it being not allowed at Hogwarts.\nI say this because just afterwards, when <PERSON> is talking with <PERSON> she says:\n\"<PERSON>, we never use Transfiguration as a punishment!\" said Professor <PERSON> weakly. \"Surely Professor <PERSON> told you that?\"\nThe fact that <PERSON> would have need to tell <PERSON> this suggests that there are places where transfiguration is used. Having said this, I don't believe that it being used in other places would have prevented <PERSON> from complaining. More likely to me is that he was scared of <PERSON>.", "773" ] ]

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[ [ "Up-and-Coming Trinidadian Soca Singer <PERSON>’ Journey Comes to an End · Global Voices\nScreenshot taken from a YouTube video of <PERSON> cover of <PERSON> “Jesus is Love”.\nThis is the time of year that Trinidad and Tobago Carnival masquerade bands typically introduce their costume designs for the upcoming season to the thousands of people who participate in what has come to be known as “the greatest show on earth”. The events are usually lavish affairs, with models parading in extravagant costumes and performances by top-level soca music artists.\nHowever, a time to celebrate quickly turned into a time to mourn the sudden passing of Trinidadian soca singer, <PERSON>, who collapsed after performing at Tribe Carnival‘s band launch. The 36-year-old was rushed to the St. Clair Medical Centre, where he could not be saved.\nTribe Carnival's Facebook page called him “a strong, versatile talent whose star was on the rise”. <PERSON> had been performing for over a decade and placed third at the 2017 International Soca Monarch Competition with his hit song, “D Journey”, featuring <PERSON>.\nThank You <PERSON>.", "264" ], [ "May you rest in peace our brother. pic.twitter.com/Ubdc9QCH4B\n— TRIBE Carnival (@CarnivalTRIBE) July 16, 2017\nAs friends and fans mourned their loss, a self-identified “close friend” of the singer, who preferred to remain anonymous, did an interview with the Trinidad Guardian in which he suggested that diet pills may have contributed to <PERSON>’ death. At the time of the interview, an autopsy had not yet been performed. By the time the autopsy report revealed that <PERSON> had died of a heart attack on June 16, 2017, both the interview and the “friend” were already being bashed on social media.\nRadio station owner and soca promoter <PERSON> observed:\nTo write an article based on an anonymous friend and suggest that <PERSON> died from a diet pill , WITHOUT AN AUTOPSY ,,,,I do not comment on the work of media colleagues but this is wrong on several levels , Trinidad Guardian please think about what you achieved with this one\nFacebook user <PERSON> added:\nThe Guardian Newspaper should apologize to <PERSON>'s family […] the reporter & the editor who allowed this ‘speculation’ to make news needs to take an unpaid vacation.\nI mean, seriously? […]\nSorry, I maybe [sic] 61 & a little old fashioned, but I find this unacceptable. […]\nRIP <PERSON>.\nThe Red 96.7 FM DJ's radio station family expressed their grief. <PERSON>’ unexpected death also met with an outpouring of heartfelt messages from fans.\n<PERSON> posted this video with the caption “RIP,” on her Facebook page:\nRadio host <PERSON>, meanwhile, remembered that “We always ended our all conversations with ‘let's make it happen'”, calling <PERSON> “a brother, friend and a positive soul who really defines humility, love and persistence in character”.\nOn Twitter, some used the hashtag #nokilljoy — one of <PERSON>’ popular sayings — in reactions to his death:\nRIP <PERSON> till we meet again.\n#NoKillJoy the nation is in mourning pic.twitter.com/I1pxh8pxQt\n— RedFMBlazers 96.7 (@redfmblazers) July 16, 2017\nUntil we meet again my friend safe travels ?? R.I.P <PERSON> #bigbrotherdev#nokilljoy… https://t.co/3yx6MTLLRt\n— <PERSON> (@hypahoppa) July 16, 2017\nOthers were simply stunned:\nThis one real hurting me… ? RIP <PERSON> ?\n— <PERSON> ?? (@AaronFingal) July 16, 2017\n“Always ask <PERSON> for d guidance and protection u need against all evil” everytime <PERSON> coming off air he used to say dis ? sigh\n— ● NubianPrincess ® (@5starSlim) July 16, 2017\nEven though the online community could hardly believe he was gone, they had faith that <PERSON>’ musical legacy would live on, with one Twitter user quoting a line from his 2017 Carnival hit:\nIf the rumors are true, RIP <PERSON>.", "357" ] ]

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[ [ "apoquel and allergies\nso my dog was given cytopoint for skin allergies but she had an allergic reaction to it and it made no difference. we are going to try apoquel soon but im kind of worried about the side effects plus the cost. her allergies mostly affect her in the summer so would it be possible to wean her off of them in autumn? or on the other hand, keep her indoors? id feel terrible for it because she loves her daily walk but it helps soo much for her sore itchy skin.", "114" ] ]

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[ [ "I recently purchased Fields of Fire, a solo only winter GMT wargame release. I’ve played about 4 missions of the game, all in the WWII era, and I think I can safely say that it is a game of interest for some individuals here, with some major qualifications. I cannot stop playing it and have been playing it most nights for the past week or two.\nIt has the strongest narrative of any game I've ever played. We talk a lot about narrative on the F:AT, but this really is the ultimate form of narrative in a game, through a simulation. I can remember 3-4 amazing, movie quality (not in an action hero way) moments in my mind's eye from my last game as I sit here. It presents a viewpoint on combat that is far, far different than anything I've ever played. And not in a gamey way a la Combat Commander. It also has an insane amount of replayability. Having 3 eras, WWII, Korea and Vietnam, that all play differently in the box means there is a lot of gameplay to be had.\nI am still not sure I can recommend it in good faith to most here, however. But if the description sounds interesting, and you do not mind doing some major rules wrestling to get there, you will find a very rewarding game. It seems I am always writing these wargame reviews for BGG and F:AT---fight through the rules and you will be rewarded. Nevertheless, I think good design ideas should be rewarded and are worth fighting for. Fields of Fire counts as one of those designs.\nWhat is the Game About?\nFields of Fire is essentially a solo tactical game, designed by <PERSON>, who has experience commanding in the Marines. Units represent squads and individual assets (heavy machine gun, artillery observer, etc). The player sets up the terrain, then comes up with a plan and assigns assets for his given forces (an infantry company, usually). The player then attempts to accomplish whatever the goals are (attacking, defending or patrolling) against an uncertain enemy in a given time.\nThere is no traditional map. In fact, the map is generated at the beginning of the mission dynamically by drawing terrain cards and placing them on the table. Each war has a different terrain deck (Vietnam has lots of jungles and nasty terrain, while Normandy has a lot of bocage and farmhouses). The map can be drastically different from mission to mission, even when replaying the same mission. You might draw a mostly forest and bocage Normandy mission, or you might draw more urban farmhouses and villages.\nThe enemy forces are similarly dynamically created; there is no simple mission scenario setup or anything of that nature.", "993" ], [ "Enemies are simulated not by placing enemies on the board at the start, but through placing various strength potential contact markers. These resolve differently whether you attack or defend. Resolving a contact chit means the potential of enemies appearing in cards. The placement and units vary dramatically. You may resolve several markers without any enemy forces appearing but it is more likely forces will appear in front of you and begin firing on you, oftentimes unobserved. There is a rhyme and reason to encounters, however, as dangerous markers yield enemies far more often and tend to produce more dangerous unit types.\nCombat results and the like are handled by a similar mechanism to the legendary game Up Front. No dice. There is a card deck that has various random indicators on it, a random number generator for truly random draws, and various icons on the cards that indicate things such as the results of hits, if shots hit. Etc, etc. All attempts to follow orders and act are handled with this deck. This means lots of reshuffling, which is a definite annoyance of the system. And unlike Up Front, which has a truly massive action deck that takes a while to cycle through, Fields of Fire has a much smaller deck that you burn through quickly and reshuffle.\nA Simulation of Commanding, Not Controlling\nI must say Fields of Fire is quite a unique experience. In particular, it has a singular viewpoint of combat that bears no resemblance to current tactical wargame systems (ASL, Company of Heroes, Combat Commander, etc). That viewpoint is command, not control. Everybody who plays wargames constantly talks about command, what it means and how it is one of the most important things in simulating war. But in practice, command generally just means units have to be X number of hexes from a commander or, more commonly, the leader adds combat power to the army since he is so smart.\nThe viewpoint here is different. It is simulating commanders as the actors. All other units, outside of commanders, behave with some manner of AI. The best example is friendly units. Basically, friendly AI is pretty rudimentary. It will fire at units it sees and even continue fire into the brush if the enemy leaves.", "100" ] ]

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[ [ "It was a dark time for the Rebellion. Their champion <PERSON> had fallen at the hands of the Emperor. A rampaging Rancor had already demolished two of their once hidden bases. And the terrible Death Star was nearing completion.\nThen a figure emerged from the shadows -- small, green, powerful. With a wave of his four-fingered hand, <PERSON> distracted the Rancor using an old Jedi mind trick, leaving the Imperial headquarters on Courascant open to attack. <PERSON> led the charge along with with a fellow Jedi who had been in hiding. Just as they were about to reach the base, the Jedi felt his throat tighten. The Dark Lord of the Sith <PERSON> was choking the life out of him, and without his help the mission could not possibly succeed.\nBut <PERSON> wasn't out of tricks yet. With the power of the Force, he was able to deflect <PERSON>'s attention, and the Dark Lord took out his fury on one of his own men instead, killing a TIE Fighter pilot who had let the Jedi slip through their defenses unnoticed. With the path clear, <PERSON> and his team laid the charges to destroy the Imperial headquarters, bringing the promise of peace to the galaxy once more...\nAnd therein summarizes my first experience playing Star Wars: The Card Game. An eye-opening experience, not just for the story the game told, but for the whole package. Theme, mechanics, interaction... I was impressed across the board. So why are you only seeing this review now, months after the game was released?\nMy story is a fairly common one. I'm a huge Star Wars fan... like, named my daughter <PERSON> so I could have a little princess huge. Okay, so maybe my story's not THAT common. But like so many others I was very excited when FFG first announced they were doing a Star Wars LCG, and I salivated over the initial offerings of original artwork. And then came the waiting...", "605" ], [ "and more waiting... and the original project for a co-op was scrapped and the game was redesigned. More waiting... And finally the release. But by then I'd waited so long and things had changed so much that I didn't jump on the game right away. The initial reviews came in, and one common thread rose above the rest -- \"The game doesn't feel like Star Wars.\" \"The interaction of the cards is downright goofy.\" \"The theme makes no sense.\" \"How can you have a <PERSON> battling the Millennium Falcon\" And so on and so on. But then more reviews started to come out touting the gameplay, and so I finally made the leap and bought in. And boy am I glad I did...\nTo thoese who eschew the theme, let me quote my review title: \"I find your lack of imagination disturbing.\" In my first game I had no trouble whatsoever getting into the theme of the game, and I totally agree with those who say it has a strong Star Wars feel. At times you need a little imagination, but to me that just makes the game more fun and thematic, not less so. In my lead-in passage, my opponent played Force Choke which does 1 point of damage to a character, and I responded with Lightsaber Deflection, which redirects a point of damage to a different target. Strictly speaking does that make any sense? No, but from my write-up you can see it wasn't hard at all to envision another way in which those cards might interact, and to me that kind of creativity is fun.\nBut theme aside, the most important thing is that the theme doesn't matter... Because the mechanics are THAT good. In my time as Games Editor for InQuest magazine I played and reviewed probably around 200 trading card games. For whatever that's worth. (Note: I think it's worth at least something... if for no other reason than I have a pretty large basis of comparison.) And even after just one play I could tell that Star Wars: The Card Game was a special game. There are mechanics I haven't seen before, and that alone is saying something. Once you learn the rules (I highly recommend watching the [thread=http://boardgamegeek.com/video/24209]Team Convenant video[/thread] and then reading through the rulebook as I did), the game flows smoothly and easily. The goals are clear and you can jump right in, and since you start with most of the resource-production you'll ever need already in play, there's no slow buildup or \"mana screw\". You can hit the ground running, which is no small feat for a balanced and strategic card game.\nRather than rehash the gameplay and rules, which you can easily find elsewhere, let me just touch on the high points:\n* Edge battles.", "304" ] ]

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[ [ "Malawi: The good, the bad and the hopeful in health care · Global Voices\nIn this post we highlight some of what Malawian bloggers are writing about the country's health care issues. We look at bloggers describing developments in eye care, reflecting on midwifery, expressing shock over negligence in hospitals and government waste, and we end with rare good news about the HIV/AIDS epidemic.\nDr. <PERSON> examines Malawian kids. Photo: Vision2020 IAPB\nWe start with Dr. <PERSON>, an eye care specialist, university professor and researcher. Dr. <PERSON> informs that The University of Malawi's College of Medicine has recently introduced a graduate training program in Ophthalmology. The number of ophthalmologists in the country has also increased, with three new ophthalmologists trained within the last two years. One of them is Dr. <PERSON> himself. The new Minister of Health, who is also a new member of parliament, Dr. <PERSON>, is himself an ophthalmologist, and for many years was the only one in the whole of Malawi.\nThe new developments in the training program and increase in specialists are a result of a program known as Vision 2020 Right to Sight, which Malawi has been pursuing for a number of years now. Dr.", "830" ], [ "<PERSON> writes:\nMalawi has been active in VISION 2020 activities since 2000, and has successfully organised VISION2020 workshops for Malawi, Zambia and Zimbabwe.\nMalawi completed the VISION 2020 five year Eye care plan in 2004, and progress has been made towards achieving goals to eliminating avoidable blindness by the year 2020 in Malawi.\nBased on the 3 pillars of VISION2020, in terms of disease control, Childhood blindness was set as one of the major priorities and a Paediatric Ophthalmology unit was planned to be developed in Blantyre.\nAnother Malawian blogger also blogging about health care issues is <PERSON>, a Malawian nurse currently studying in Norway. <PERSON>, as she addresses herself, started blogging in March this year after arriving in Norway. Her 15 years as a midwife-nurse, she writes, have taught her about the simple, free things that matter to women whether in Malawi or in Norway:\nAs an experienced para 3, i really missed the support of a midwife who could greet me and put herself in my shoes during antenatal, labour and postnatal periods. Having travelled miles away from my home and live in this scandinavian country, i have really appriciated that there are some things that cost nothing but are important for all midwives to do in the whole world. A smile, greetings, giving of comprehensive information, explaining procedures, respect, empathy, sympathy.With these little non costly commodities, our hospitals will be wonderful places for women.\nMalawian Nurse-Midwife, <PERSON>\nBut health care in Malawi also presents difficult problems especially to ordinary Malawians who cannot afford expensive private doctors. <PERSON> writes about a distant relation of his who recently hanged himself to escape deep financial problems he was ensnared in. According to <PERSON>, the man was still alive when people found him. They quickly took him to the hospital, where they found nurses and other medical personnel having their dinner.\nThey reporterdly went on with their business of eating the evening meal as <PERSON> lay in poor condition. By the time the medical staff had finished enjoying dinner and started to check on <PERSON>, he was no more.\nSadly, <PERSON> writes, such stories of negligence are not uncommon in Malawian hospitals, as per an incident he personally witnessed.\nOn one occasion I personally saw a mother holding a very ill young son rush into the hall of the referall hospital in Blantyre, QECH, to alert medics about the need for a trolley or a wheel-chair. Nobody seemed to care and the woman ended up handling the trolley herself…she was later assisted by a minibus conductor whose vehicle had kindly agreed to make a diversion to the hospital!\nAnother blogger, <PERSON>, expresses his frustration with a Government plan to study the feasibility of turning an old ship on Lake Malawi, the MV Chancy Maples, into a mobile hospital. According to <PERSON>, the idea has been proposed by some Scottish donors, who want the Malawi government to pay for the study at a cost of MK50,000,000 (US$357,143).\nAs much as I have respect for the Ministry officials K50 million can do a lot. Train at least 10 doctors, 200 medical assistance and 100 Nurses. Or better still can equip Lifuwu Hospital with drugs for five months.\nHow we lay our priorities should reflect the poverty and needs of Malawians.", "830" ] ]

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[ [ "Vengeance Is Mine\nTwice, hair-cutting is used as a form of abuse. Both times it is very harrowing, but the blade never punctures the skin. That's the fine line <PERSON> walks throughout this melodrama.", "1009" ], [ "It is sleepy and mundane but with every burst of drama, it thwarts expectations (reminds me of something <PERSON> said at a Q&A the other day, that he doesn't make genre films; he makes emotional ones). Upon learning that this film used to be called \"Haunted,\" I remembered <PERSON> asking <PERSON> if she is afraid of ghosts, as one lives in the bedroom she would occupy. I see now that she meant her mother, <PERSON>.\n35mm.", "61" ] ]

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[ [ "Trinidad & Tobago photographers commemorate Earth Day 2020 with online challenge · Global Voices\nScreenshot of an image by <PERSON>, submitted to the Photographers Guild of Trinidad & Tobago's Facebook page as part of its Earth Day challenge. All photos have been republished in this post with the permission of the Guild.\nEarth Day, celebrated every April 22, looks very different this year from its previous incarnations. With the COVID-19 pandemic restricting movement and gatherings worldwide, this year's celebration has moved entirely online.", "941" ], [ "The event's website describes it as “far more than a day”:\nIt must be a historic moment when citizens of the world rise up in a united call for the creativity, innovation, ambition, and bravery that we need to meet our climate crisis and seize the enormous opportunities of a zero-carbon future.\nThe Trinidad and Tobago Photographers Guild is doing its part to heed the digital call to action, via an ongoing photo challenge that began nearly six weeks ago, around March 12, when Trinidad and Tobago recorded its index case of COVID-19.\nUnder the theme “(Stay) Focused”, the social media-based challenge invites photographers to share their work on the Guild's Facebook page. Thus far, topics have covered everything from fireworks to “macro” challenges to, well…Earth Day!\nGuild President <PERSON> spoke with Global Voices by telephone and said that given the country's stay-at-home instructions, photographers are encouraged to take photos in their homes and gardens or dig into their archives for uplifting images:\nWe're trying to keep the topics upbeat in order to keep people focused, and steer everyone's mental state in a positive direction while practising social distancing. … This can be a depressing time for creatives. There is very little work and it's very restrictive.”\nThe response from photographers has been fantastic, and <PERSON> notices a lot of interaction, encouragement and growth among community members — not to mention the joy they are bringing to the wider public by sharing their amazing shots.\nOn this very special Earth Day, when our natural world is beginning to heal itself thanks to the massive drop in human activity, these photographs are a blissful reminder of our precious environment and the responsibility that rests on our collective shoulders, post-pandemic, to be good stewards.\nPhotographer <PERSON> posted a beautiful shot of mangroves, with the hashtag “#protection for our coastlines”:\n#photoguildtt #earth#mangroves#protection for our coastlines\nGeplaatst door <PERSON> op Dinsdag 21 april 2020\nMangroves are critical in shielding against coastal erosion and helping to protect small island developing states (SIDS) against the ill effects of climate change through its effective absorption of carbon dioxide.\nThere were several pics of birds, symbolic of new life and regeneration — including baby birds in a nest and one hummingbird feeding another, both by <PERSON>:\n#earthday #photoguildtt\nGeplaatst door Photographers Guild of Trinidad & Tobago op Dinsdag 21 april 2020\n#earthday2020 #photoguildtt\nGeplaatst door <PERSON> op Dinsdag 21 april 2020\nThere were a lot of pristine beach — and beach clean-up — scenes, which really spoke to the Caribbean spirit.\n#EarthDay2020 #Photoguildtt#SocialMediaChallenge\nGeplaatst door Photographers Guild of Trinidad & Tobago op Dinsdag 21 april 2020\n#EarthDay2020 #Photoguildtt#SocialMediaChallenge\nGeplaatst door Photographers Guild of Trinidad & Tobago op Dinsdag 21 april 2020\nA Man-o-War adding a stinging beauty to the landscape of Manzanilla .", "941" ] ]

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[ [ "Simple formula based on the definition of tofolli gate.\nDefinition- If two qubits are in up states simultaneously then flip the third qubit and in other configurations do nothing.\nMathematically-\n\\begin{equation}|\\uparrow_1\\uparrow_2\\rangle\\langle\\uparrow_1\\uparrow_2|\\otimes\\sigma_x + |\\uparrow_1\\downarrow_2\\rangle\\langle\\uparrow_1\\downarrow_2|\\otimes I+|\\downarrow_1\\uparrow_2\\rangle\\langle\\downarrow_1\\uparrow_2|\\otimes I+|\\downarrow_1\\downarrow_2\\rangle\\langle\\downarrow_1\\downarrow_2|\\otimes I\\end{equation}\nwhere $\\sigma_x$ is $x$-Pauli Matrix and $I$ is $2\\times2$ Identity Matrix.\nUp state for qubit one $|\\uparrow_1\\rangle = \\begin{bmatrix}1 \\ 0\\end{bmatrix}$\nDown state for qubit one $|\\downarrow_1\\rangle = \\begin{bmatrix}0 \\ 1\\end{bmatrix}$\nUp state for qubit two $|\\uparrow_2\\rangle = \\begin{bmatrix}1 \\ 0\\end{bmatrix}$\nDown state for qubit two $|\\downarrow_2\\rangle = \\begin{bmatrix}0 \\ 1\\end{bmatrix}$\n$|\\uparrow_1\\uparrow_2\\rangle = \\begin{bmatrix}1 \\ 0\\end{bmatrix} \\otimes \\begin{bmatrix}1 \\ 0\\end{bmatrix} = \\begin{bmatrix}1 \\ 0 \\ 0 \\ 0\\end{bmatrix}$\nand $|\\uparrow_1\\uparrow_2\\rangle\\langle\\uparrow_1\\uparrow_2| = \\begin{bmatrix}1 \\ 0 \\ 0 \\ 0\\end{bmatrix}\\otimes \\begin{bmatrix}1 \\ 0 \\ 0 \\ 0\\end{bmatrix} = \\begin{bmatrix}1 & 0 & 0 & 0 \\0 & 0 & 0 & 0 \\ 0 & 0 & 0 & 0 \\ 0 & 0 & 0 & 0 \\\\end{bmatrix}$\nSimilarly you can construct other terms.", "66" ] ]

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[ [ "Matrix, Matter, Mother. Mother of all. Origin of all creation.\nWe come from matter. The root word of matter is mater, which means origin, source, mother. It is the root word of matrix, matter, mother, matriarchy, and so on.", "131" ], [ "This is the mother which gives birth to us in our physical world.\nThe urubobos – the primordial matrix – contains in “embryonic” form everything that can in principle possibly be experienced, and the thing that does the experiencing. The great serpent (the matrix) is therefore consciousness – spirit, before it manifests itself – and matter, before it is separated from spirit.\nThe matrix of all things is something feminine, like the mothers of experience; is something with an endlessly fecund and renewed (maternal and virginal) nature – is something that defines fertility and, therefore, femininity itself. Things come from somewhere; all things have their birthplace.\n...The eternally extant domain of the unknown therefore constitutes the matrix from which all conditional knowledge emerges.\n...The ancient Mesopotamian creation myth – the Enuma elish – provides a concrete example of the interplay of these “personalities.” This myth features four main characters, or sets of characters; <PERSON>, the feminine dragon of chaos, primordial goddess of creation (the uroboros and the Great Mother are conflated, as is frequently the case, in this myth); <PERSON>, <PERSON>’s husband and consort; the “elder gods,” children of <PERSON> and <PERSON>; and <PERSON>, sun-deity and mythic hero. <PERSON> symbolizes the great unknown, the matrix of the world; <PERSON> the known, the pattern that makes regulated existence possible. The “elder gods” symbolize the common psychological attributes of humanity (the “fragments or constituent elements of consciousness”), and constitute a more thorough representation of the constituent elements of the “patriarchal” known; <PERSON> – greatest of the secondary deities – represents the process that eternally mediates between matrix and regulated existence....\nThe unknown is unexplored territory, nature, the unconscious, dionysian force, the id, the Great Mother goddess, the queen, the matrix, the matriarch, the container, the object to be fertilized, the source of all things, the strange, the unconscious, the sensual, the foreigner, the place of return and rest, the maw of the earth, the belly of the beast, the dragon, the evil stepmother, the deep, the fecund, the pregnant, the valley, the cleft, the cave, hell, death and the grave\n* <PERSON>, Maps of meaning", "117" ] ]

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[ [ "Use <PERSON>... (I like \"Stars & Stripes Forever\" personally, but do ignore the rallentando going into the third repeat of the first strain!)\nIf you've any exposure to him you can probably hit 120 beats per minute to within +/- 10; if you've any musical training that's closer to +/-2 bpm. Let's assume +/- 6bpm, because I don't know you. That's an error of one part in twenty.\n...to calibrate a pendulum's length...\nHolding the top with one hand, occasionally giving it a kick at the bottom of its swing to keep it going—pushing it at the bottom will perturb its timing the least. Once you've got the length marked out of a 120bpm pendulum, go ahead and rest your arms a moment while gathering material for the next part. This solves your problem of not knowing the local acceleration due to gravity. (Which we hope is constant to better than 5% over a span of hours. If not, you've got bigger problems.)\n...to calibrate a sundial.\nQuadruple the length of your pendulum—doubling its period—and hang it from some improvised frame. Within seated arm's reach of your new grandfather clock erect your gnomon, mark your starting point, and start your grandfather clock. (Remember to give it its kick at the bottom—not like pushing kids on the swing.) Make a tick somewhere every 60 (or 100, if you're ambitious) ~seconds~ and after 60 (or 36) ticks mark the end of the hour at the shadow's tip. And do it again. And again. (Counting this many beats is do-able, but it takes discipline. Again, you'll be in good shape if you've some musical training. Particularly if you've been a brass player in an orchestra--plenty of hundred-plus measure rests in that repertoire!1)\nNow build yourself a bevel gauge:\nmark out eight times your three-hour count. There's your Earth-day. Now in 346 of those go to your gate location prepared for, at most, a nineteen-day wait.", "312" ], [ "(That is, assume your one-part-in-twenty error was in the direction of counting too slow: you want to show up 1/20 *365 days \"early\" so that even your slowest count gets you there a good half-day before your gate opens.)\nThis won't work if...\n* Local gravity varies by more than a few percent over a few-hour span. By itself, I don't think that would wreak too much havoc on you, biologically. I'm guessing you could survive elevator-like levels of gravitational variance2 for a year. But I'd be seriously worried about whatever's causing that level of variation. Nearby orbiting attractor? Probably no atmosphere, then. Your system orbits an infalling pair of black holes? Good luck surviving the irradiation. &c.\n* There's not enough light to use a sundial. For long periods. If it's overcast for a few presumed-days before you can do this work, not a problem: pad the wait-window by those few days. But if we're talking many many weeks of no appreciable visible light, then will this biome support your food needs for a year?\n* The planet rotates slowly enough that you can't perceive the shadow's motion in mere hours. In this case you've got temperature differentials on the light and dark sides of the planet that are going to cause killer (literally!) weather. Not just a problem for you but, again, for your support biome. I don't doubt things could live in perpetual 200 mph winds, I just doubt you could digest them!\nIt's better than the non-answer \"it can't be done\" because now you're not tied to an area within (gate open-time)$\\times$(running speed) of the gate location.\nIt's better than heartrate because that can be soooo variable. As a runner I know that my resting rate may be as low as the 40s, but on a stressful (Earth) day my resting rate might be nearing 60. +/- one part in five is no good. Even at the bad end of the tempo-range you'd be hitting one part in twelve.\nIt's better than sleep cycles because we're actually diphasic sleepers: in darkness we can easily sleep three or four hours then come wide awake, feeling refreshed as after a full night's sleep, only to re-tire an hour or two later. That's in our preferred environment, when well-fed. Throw hunger, stress, and unnatural stimuli into it and I don't think you're going to get one part in twenty accuracy.\n1 - Much rarer, but better-equipped for this particular exercise, are change ringers.", "801" ] ]

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[ [ "Belarus: President Pardons <PERSON> · Global Voices\nOn June 30, a U.S. Congress delegation visited Minsk. The Congressmen had a meeting with Belarusian president <PERSON>. During this meeting, members of the U.S. delegation asked the president to pardon <PERSON>, an American lawyer who, in August 2008, was “sentenced to three years in prison on charges of ‘attempted industrial espionage’ and the use of fake documents.” <PERSON> said he could do it and signed the pardon later that day.\n<PERSON> of The Being Had Times re-posted a BelTA article about the U.S. delegation's visit on his blog and here is a quote from it:\n[…] During the meeting members of the US delegation addressed the President of Belarus with a request to use powers of the head of state to free US citizen <PERSON>, who had been serving his sentence in Belarus for committing a criminal offence.\n<PERSON> emphasised that the US citizen had violated Belarusian laws. “He was arrested in our country and sentenced in accordance with Belarusian laws. Even US Charge d’Affaires a.i. in Belarus <PERSON> does not deny it.", "289" ], [ "I have never thought that this man could become an issue in relations between our countries. Yes, according to Belarusian laws, according to the Constitution I can grant a pardon to <PERSON>. You have asked this of me, right? If it is very important for America and our relations and contributes to normalising our relations, I will sign the pardon today,” said the head of state. […]\nOn Wednesday, at 5:30 a.m., <PERSON> flew back to the United States.\nBelarusian service of Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty (LJ user radio_svaboda) invited bloggers to ask <PERSON> some questions via the by_politics LJ community [BEL]. Only a few bloggers have responded so far, and LJ user <PERSON> was the first one to [RUS]. Below are three of the six questions that he asked:\n1. Is it true that you were arrested right after the negotiations at the Presidential Administration?\n[…]\n3. Would you seek material compensation from our country?\n[…]\n6. As far as we know, you were released following a pardon decree. Does it mean that all charges against you have been removed? If yes, do you plan to continue working on inheritance cases in Belarus?\nSo far, <PERSON> has not replied to LJ user <PERSON> and a few other Belarusian bloggers who are attempting to interact with him via an LJ community focused on Belarusian politics.", "289" ] ]

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