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|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
#873864 | user: What can I do to get my lawn darker green? I am on a fungicide program and was told fungus us not active.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about your current lawn care practices, such as your fertilization schedule, type of fertilizer used, watering schedule, and mowing height? Additionally, do you know the soil pH and nutrient levels? | 1 | [
"current grass type: tall type turf fescue",
"fungicide program: in place and fungus is not active"
] | [
"current fertilization schedule and type of fertilizer used",
"watering schedule and amount",
"soil pH and nutrient levels",
"recent weather conditions",
"mowing height and frequency"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#876120 | user: I want to know what is hurting my garlic, usually a successful plant and harvest for me. Will I be able to harvest them? Will I need to discard them, and/or remove the soil?I noticed the scapes seemed withered and malformed when they emerged. When examined, they seemed to be chewed, and some had white bits of material on them, like sticky sand. Info from the worksheet: planted 11/23, emerged from ground 4/24. Some leaves are yellowed, scapes seem chewed and misshapen. The plants don’t look robust anymore. 1st noticed this approx. 3 wks ago. Soil has good drainage, water only when dry. Conditions have been mainly hot, with both dry and wet periods. Light conditions are some sun, with an overhanging evergreen tree, lots of cones in the garlic bed. VT compost plus is used as a dressing in Nov and early May. I think there are insects, can’t see them. Lots of the invasive soft shelled snails on the leaves.
expert: Hi, Alex, It looks like you have onion/leek moth damage that is fairly advanced. There's not much you can do about it this year. Be sure to clean all debris from the soil. Plant your garlic in a different location next year and protect the plants with row covers so the moths are not able to get to the plants. Here are a links to a couple of articles/fact sheets that will provide you with information about the onion/leek moth. https://www.uvm.edu/extension/leek-moth-information-center https://extension.unh.edu/blog/2024/05/leek-moth-nh I've had them and they are a challenge to control.
user: Thank you for your response. I’m hoping I understand completely. What is the best way to dispose of the plants and debris? Thanks again, Janet On Wed, Jul 10, 2024 at 10:23 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
expert: Hi, Alex of it as trash so you eliminate as many eggs and larvae as possible.
user: Thank you. I saw one option was to burn them, but there are too many trees! By the way, when should I put on row cover? When the plants first emerge? You’ve been a great help. Janet On Wed, Jul 10, 2024 at 11:59 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Hi, Alex, it's understandable to be concerned about the chives. Generally, chives are not a primary host for leek moths, and if they haven't shown any signs of infestation, it's likely they are not affected. However, to be cautious, you might want to monitor them closely for any signs of damage. If you notice any issues, consider using row covers or relocating them temporarily. Otherwise, they should be safe to keep in place. Let me know if you have any more questions! | 5 | [
"chives are near the infested garlic bed: True",
"chives have not shown any problems: True",
"concern about leek moth attraction to chives: True"
] | [] | |||
#880570 | user: I'm assuming this is a grasshopper, but which type?
| <Respond> | Based on your description and the common names you've found, it does sound like you've identified a Carolina locust (Dissosteira carolina). This species is known for its distinctive coloration, which can indeed change as they mature. The Carolina locust is typically recognized by its mottled brown and gray coloration, which provides excellent camouflage against the ground. The hind wings are usually a pale yellow with a black border, which is visible when they fly. If the images you have match this description, it's likely you've correctly identified the species. If you have any further questions or need more confirmation, feel free to share the images for a more detailed analysis. | 1 | [
"user's assumption: Carolina locust/grasshopper",
"user's observation: Grasshoppers change colors as they mature"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#833388 | user: Can you tell me what this is, I am finding it attached to roots a few inches deep. The picture in 1 cm in size
expert: May we have photos of roots with this still attached. Also, on what type of plant? Do the plants seem to be declining or healthy.
user: Thanks, I did happen to find a sample this last weekend while weeding. Sent from my iPhone On Jun 3, 2023, at 12:01 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Clarify> | Could you please provide more details about the type of plant the object is attached to and describe the condition of the plants? Additionally, any description of the object's color or texture would be helpful. | 3 | [
"user_found_object: Attached to roots a few inches deep",
"object_size: 1 cm",
"user_provided_image: #833388_0.jpg"
] | [
"Type of plant the object is attached to",
"Condition of the plants (declining or healthy)",
"Description of the object (color, texture, etc.)"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#888820 | user: Why is my spider plant doing this? (See photo). Thank you.
| <Clarify> | Could you describe the specific symptoms or issues you're observing with your spider plant? Additionally, any details about its care routine, such as watering frequency, light exposure, and any recent changes, would be helpful. | 1 | [
"plant_type: spider plant",
"user's concern: unspecified issue with the plant"
] | [
"specific symptoms or issues observed in the plant",
"environmental conditions (light, water, temperature)",
"recent changes in care or environment",
"any pests or diseases noticed"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#882402 | user: All of my dahlias look like this. Some are worse than others. If it is a virus can I save my tubers or are the tubers going to be infected as well?
| <Clarify> | Could you describe the specific symptoms your dahlias are showing, and have you had any confirmation that it is indeed a virus? Additionally, have you applied any treatments or care to the plants recently? | 1 | [
"issue: Dahlias may be infected, possibly by a virus.",
"concern: Whether the tubers are also infected and if they can be saved for next year."
] | [
"Specific symptoms observed on the dahlias.",
"Confirmation of whether a virus is indeed present.",
"Details on any previous treatments or care given to the plants."
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#874799 | user: I have a small bed with oregano, thyme, and chives planted. The bed is alongside a patio. It gets a lot of sun, and the plants are crowded. Recently, the oregano leaves have developed these spots. Do the plants have thrips, fungus, or something else? Should I apply a treatment and move these plants to other locations? Throw them out? Thank you.
user: I have two small herb gardens alongside a patio. They get full sun and are crowded. One contains thyme, oregano, and chives. The other has one huge sage plant with a little mint and thyme off to one side. Both the oregano and the sage have white/yellow spots. From research I have done so far, I think the oregano has thrips, but I'm not sure. I have seem tiny insects jumping on the sage. Can anyone advise me as to the likely problem(s) and solutions? Moving the plants, if they are salvageable, is something I can do. Thank you.
| <Clarify> | Could you describe what you see in the attached images, such as the appearance of the spots and any visible insects? This will help in confirming whether thrips or another issue is affecting your plants. | 2 | [
"location: alongside a patio",
"sun exposure: full sun",
"plant crowding: crowded",
"affected plants: oregano, sage",
"symptoms: white/yellow spots",
"possible pest: thrips",
"observations: tiny insects jumping on sage"
] | [
"visual confirmation from images",
"specific details from images (e.g., appearance of spots, presence of insects)"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#839721 | user: Good morning, is this spotted lanternfly egg mass?
I am not sure....I think it would be more "clay" color
Thank you, Skyler
| <Clarify> | Could you please provide more details about the location where you found this object and any other characteristics you observed? Additionally, I will need to review the attached image to provide a more accurate identification. | 1 | [
"user's observation: The object crumbled when touched.",
"user's description: The user thinks it should be more 'clay' colored."
] | [
"Visual confirmation from the attached image",
"Additional details about the object's location and surroundings"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#874255 | user: Hello
I wonder what is going on with these pyrodwarf rootstocks? They were grown using the tissue culture technique, received iron before planting, are 20-30 cm tall and have passed acclimatization in the greenhouse. The upper leaves are yellow.
Thank you in advance
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the watering schedule, soil type, light exposure, and any fertilization practices you are using? Additionally, have you noticed any pests or other symptoms on the plants? | 1 | [
"plant type: pyrodwarf rootstocks",
"growth method: tissue culture",
"pre-planting treatment: received iron",
"height: 20-30 cm",
"acclimatization: passed in the greenhouse",
"symptom: upper leaves are yellow"
] | [
"watering schedule and method",
"soil type and pH",
"fertilization details",
"light exposure",
"temperature conditions",
"pest or disease presence"
] | |||
#834658 | user: I found this plant that I am assuming to be a weed, but wanted to make sure. I don’t believe I have seen it before. It was beside a dogwood in a pretty dry shady area. Right now though everything is drier than usual. It’s low growing. Thanks!
| <Clarify> | Could you provide detailed descriptions or images of the plant, such as leaf shape, flower color, or any other distinctive features? This will help in accurately identifying the plant. | 1 | [
"location: Beside a dogwood in a dry, shady area",
"growth habit: Low growing",
"current conditions: Drier than usual",
"user's action: Pulled the plants out and kept them in the fridge"
] | [
"Detailed description of the plant's features (e.g., leaf shape, flower color, etc.)",
"Images of the plant for identification"
] | |||
#836143 | user: Hi - found this hiking along a trail. Can you identify it for me?
| <Clarify> | Could you provide a description of the plant's features, such as its size, color, and leaf shape? Additionally, any details about the location where you found it, like the region or habitat type, would be helpful. | 1 | [
"context: The user found a plant while hiking and wants it identified.",
"images: Attached images are available for identification."
] | [
"Description of the plant's features (e.g., size, color, leaf shape).",
"Location details (e.g., region, habitat type)."
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#874685 | user: What is my wrong with my garlic, why does it look like this in my garden? Not enough water... too much water? Maybe it's not enough dirt. The soil is just shy of a foot tall. This is only the second year that the garlic has grown. I did not pick it last year. It's never gotten seeds at the top.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the current appearance of your garlic plants, such as any discoloration, wilting, or other visible symptoms? Additionally, information about your watering schedule, soil type, and any fertilization or pest control practices would be helpful. | 1 | [
"soil depth: just shy of a foot tall",
"garlic age: second year",
"harvest history: not picked last year",
"seed production: never gotten seeds at the top"
] | [
"current appearance of the garlic (details from the image)",
"watering schedule",
"soil type and quality",
"fertilization practices",
"pest or disease presence"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#833017 | user: Could you please let me know what you think caused this curling and if there's anything I can do to nurse them back to health? They looked great a couple weeks ago. Could this be from pesticide/herbicide drift? Or am I deficient in something? Any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated. I grew these from seed and am so upset. Thank you.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the type of plant you are growing, the growing conditions (such as soil type, watering schedule, and sunlight exposure), and any recent changes in their environment or care? Additionally, have there been any known pesticide or herbicide applications nearby recently? | 1 | [
"symptom: leaf curling",
"concern: potential pesticide/herbicide drift or nutrient deficiency",
"emotional investment: user grew plants from seed and is upset"
] | [
"type of plant",
"growing conditions (e.g., soil type, watering schedule, sunlight exposure)",
"recent changes in environment or care",
"specifics about pesticide/herbicide use nearby",
"nutrient regimen"
] | |||
#875197 | user: Recently, a lot of my pine trees (maybe Virginia Pine or Loblolly?) developed what appears to be a white fungus at the base. (Photos attached) The affected trees are all clustered together and I have many other pine on my property that don't have this issue. It feels like something I should be concerned about. One tree, which seems to be dying based on the lack of needles at the top, has the white blemishes higher up on its trunk as well. The fungus appeared very suddenly. What's going on with my trees? Located in Midlothian near the Amelia County line.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the environmental conditions around the affected trees, such as recent weather patterns, soil conditions, or any changes or treatments applied to the area? This information can help in identifying the fungus and determining the best course of action. | 1 | [
"tree type: Possibly Virginia Pine or Loblolly",
"symptoms: White fungus at the base, one tree dying with white blemishes higher up",
"location: Midlothian near the Amelia County line",
"sudden appearance: Yes"
] | [
"Specific identification of the fungus",
"Environmental conditions (e.g., recent weather patterns, soil conditions)",
"Any recent changes or treatments applied to the area",
"Presence of any other symptoms or pests"
] | |||
#841667 | user: I planted these flowering dogwood trees in 2020; they were mere twigs from The Arbor Day Foundation. The lowest branches now touch the ground. They are very graceful to look at but I can't mow under them. Will the growth of the trunk eventually lift these branches further from the ground or should I remove them this fall or in the spring?
| <Respond> | As flowering dogwood trees grow, the trunk will thicken and may lift the branches slightly, but this process can be slow. If the branches are causing issues with mowing, it is advisable to prune them. The best time to prune dogwoods is in late fall or early spring when the tree is dormant. This will minimize stress on the tree and reduce the risk of disease. Make sure to use clean, sharp tools and make cuts at a slight angle to promote healing. | 1 | [
"tree_type: flowering dogwood",
"planting year: 2020",
"current issue: lowest branches touch the ground, making mowing difficult"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#825007 | user: We planted 2 white wood asters under our silver maple tree 3 years ago. For the past 2 years, the asters bloomed, and then something ate all the leaves off the stems. Not the flowers. We have not seen anything on the plants. The damage is too small to be deer, which love other flowers and plants in our yard. The squirrels seem to bury things in that area. We sprayed deer spray on it, but that is all. I have a friend in another area of our neighborhood who said the same thing happened to her white wood asters. Do you know what kind of pest does this and is there any way to treat or prevent this happening again?
| <Respond> | Based on your description and the fact that the damage is too small for deer, it's likely that the culprit is a type of caterpillar or possibly slugs or snails, which are known to feed on the leaves of asters. Since you mentioned that you are okay with caterpillars or butterflies, you might want to consider using non-lethal methods to manage them. One option is to manually inspect the plants and remove any caterpillars you find. You can also try using a natural deterrent like neem oil, which can help repel pests without harming beneficial insects. Additionally, setting up barriers or traps for slugs and snails can be effective. Regular monitoring and maintaining a clean garden area can also help prevent future infestations. | 1 | [
"plant: white wood asters",
"location: under a silver maple tree",
"damage: leaves eaten off the stems, not the flowers",
"previous actions: deer spray used",
"similar issue: friend in the neighborhood experienced the same",
"images: attached"
] | [] | |||
#822146 | user: Hello,
I'm looking for a native ohio ground cover I can use to cover a dirt patch or mix with grass to keep it green longer without watering. If it had small flowers that would be great, especially if they were bee or butterfly friendly and non toxic for pets. I have a fairly small yard, only about 950sqft. It gets a good amount of afternoon and evening sun. Double bonus if it drinks a ton of water!
| <Respond> | Based on your requirements and conditions, here are a few native Ohio ground cover options that might work well for your yard:
1. **Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum)**: This plant is native to Ohio, has lovely pink flowers, and is known to attract pollinators. It can tolerate clay soil and partial sun.
2. **Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica)**: These have beautiful blue flowers and are also native to Ohio. They prefer moist, well-drained soil but can adapt to clay soil with some amendments.
3. **Wild Strawberry (Fragaria virginiana)**: This ground cover produces small white flowers and is excellent for pollinators. It is also non-toxic to pets and can handle clay soil.
4. **Golden Ragwort (Packera aurea)**: Known for its bright yellow flowers, this plant is great for pollinators and can thrive in clay soil.
5. **Creeping Phlox (Phlox subulata)**: As you mentioned, this is a good option. It has vibrant flowers and is drought-tolerant once established.
Since you have clay soil, consider adding organic matter or compost to improve drainage and soil structure. This will help the plants establish better and reduce standing water issues. Good luck with your gardening project! | 1 | [
"location: Ohio",
"yard size: 950 sqft",
"sun exposure: afternoon and evening sun",
"soil type: clay-based",
"desired plant characteristics: native, drought-tolerant, bee or butterfly friendly, non-toxic for pets, small flowers",
"current issue: standing water due to clay soil"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#883334 | user: My roses are turning dry and crispy- no visible bug- I have more than these 3 photos
| <Respond> | Based on the symptoms you've described and the absence of visible pests, it seems like your roses might be suffering from a combination of black spot disease and possibly environmental stress, such as inadequate watering or nutrient deficiency. Black spot is a common fungal disease that causes black spots on leaves, leading to yellowing and eventually leaf drop. Horticultural oil is typically used for pest control and may not be effective against fungal diseases.
Here are some steps you can take to address the issue:
1. **Prune Affected Leaves**: Remove and dispose of any affected leaves to prevent the spread of the fungus.
2. **Improve Air Circulation**: Ensure your roses are well-spaced to allow for good air circulation, which can help reduce fungal growth.
3. **Watering**: Make sure your roses are getting adequate water, especially during dry spells, but avoid overhead watering to minimize leaf wetness.
4. **Fungicide Treatment**: Consider using a fungicide specifically designed for black spot. Be sure to follow the instructions on the label for the best results.
5. **Fertilization**: Ensure your roses are receiving the necessary nutrients by applying a balanced rose fertilizer.
If the problem persists, you might want to consult with a local extension service or a professional horticulturist for further diagnosis and treatment options. | 1 | [
"symptoms: Leaves turning yellow, crispy like brown paper, and presence of black spots.",
"absence of pests: No visible bugs or fuzzy bugs on the leaves.",
"treatment attempted: Spraying with horticultural oil."
] | [] | |||
#884071 | user: Hello,
I’m an urban renter with an out-of-town landlord. The approx. 12 y/o dwarf cherry in the front yard is looking really ill, with all its leaves showing brown and wilting.
I’ve always trickle watered it several times throughout the hottest part of the summer.
expert: Thanks for contacting ask extension with your concerns about the dwarf cherry tree. It looks like the tree has a bacterial or fungal disease. I have several questions that will help with the diagnosis. How was the tree last year? Did you see a similar problem? When did you notice the leaf spots/drop this season. Did the tree produce fruit this year? Take a look at the trunk and limbs. Do you see cankers or ooze? Have you applied any dormant sprays in past years? If so, what have you used. How often and how long are you watering the tree? Looking forward to hearing back from you.
user: Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. So, I’ve never sprayed/treated the tree, only occasionally watered during the summer. I would generally do a very slow overnight watering every couple weeks until the weather cooled. It’s always had a good crop of healthy, tasty red cherries. Several years ago the tree and residence were infested by small sugar ants, but the landlord has since been forced to regularly treat the residence foundation with a pet safe treatment (?) and no problems since. The crop this year was markedly different, although blossoms were bounteous there wasn’t much fruit, they were small and watery tasting. The branches and bark look normal and consistent. I noticed the leaves looking a little wilted at the top of the tree about mid July, and attributed it to the heat and that I had been out of town and not watered it since beginning of June, but it didn’t perk up with resuming watering, and as I say, the fruit this season was disappointing. Thank you,DebraSent from my iPhone On Sep 4, 2024, at 4:39 PM, Ask Extension wrote:
| <Respond> | Based on the symptoms you've described and the images provided, it seems like your dwarf cherry tree might be suffering from a fungal disease, possibly exacerbated by inconsistent watering and environmental stress. Since you are interested in organic options, you can consider using a copper-based fungicide, which is often effective against a range of fungal diseases and is considered organic. Additionally, ensure that the tree is not overwatered, as excessive moisture can promote fungal growth. Improving air circulation around the tree by pruning can also help reduce fungal issues. Regularly monitor the tree for any changes and consider consulting a local arborist for a more detailed assessment if the problem persists. | 3 | [
"tree_age: approximately 12 years",
"symptoms: brown and wilting leaves, poor fruit quality",
"watering_schedule: slow overnight watering every couple of weeks during summer",
"past issues: infestation by small sugar ants, treated with pet-safe treatment",
"current condition: branches and bark look normal, leaves wilted since mid-July",
"fruit production: bounteous blossoms, but small and watery fruit",
"interest in organic treatment: user is interested in organic anti-fungal options"
] | [] | |||
#874425 | user: Hi there question about one of my favorite hostas that started to deteriorate with all the rain we’ve had recently. I’ve ripped out about 75% of the leaves; a few remain and they are not perfectly healthy either; I’ve attached a photo. I have an autumn joy sedum nearby that also has some wilting gray leaves near where this particular hosta is. The hosta was a transplant of another hosta, which is about 2 feet away and is in perfect health. My photos are of one diseased Leif, an up close shot of the stems where I removed diseased leaves, and then a close-up of the autumn joy sedum. Thank you for any help you can provide
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the soil drainage in the area where the hosta and sedum are planted? Additionally, have you noticed any pests or specific signs of disease on the plants, and what are your usual fertilization and watering practices? | 1 | [
"hosta condition: Deteriorating with many leaves removed, remaining leaves not healthy",
"recent weather: Heavy rain",
"proximity to other plants: Near a healthy hosta and an autumn joy sedum with wilting gray leaves",
"transplant history: Hosta was a transplant from another healthy hosta"
] | [
"Details about soil drainage",
"Fertilization and watering practices",
"Presence of pests or signs of disease on the plants",
"Specific symptoms observed on the leaves and stems"
] | |||
#842288 | user: Hello, I have two Canadian Hemlocks off my patio and they look to be struggling, actually for years. They get new needles each spring but there seems to be a lot of needle drop and dead/sparse branches. some are at the outside toward the top but also a lot interspersed. They are at least 30 years old. Pictures attached, hopefully enough to figure it out. I have thrown some 10-10-10 granular fertilizer around the drip lines of all the trees this year. thank you, Nancy
expert: Hi, Peyton, This looks like fabrella needle blight, which is a fungal disease that results in the loss of hemlock needles. The disease is not fatal unless the tree is under drought stress, which is likely not the case in your yard trees. You can read more about fabrella needle blight at the link below: https://elibrary.dcnr.pa.gov/PDFProvider.ashx?action=PDFStream&docID=1738101&chksum=&revision=0&docName=tHlthFactSheet-FabrellaNeedleBlight&nativeExt=pdf Sanitation is the recommended practice to limit the effect of the disease. Gather up fallen needles each spring. Trim off affected branches during winter months to increase air flow, which will also limit moist conditions in which fungal diseases can thrive. Keep trees watered in times of drought. The annual application of fertilizer in the fall or spring months is also a good idea. If you have any questions, please feel free to reach out. Thank you, -Julie
user: Thank you. What type of fertilizer would you recommend? Picking up these tiny needles from the ground beneath would be virtually impossible. The area has some mulch and sits in a garden bed with other plants. Are there any recommended sprays or just the course of treatment you mention below? Thank you, Peyton: ask=<personal data hidden> <ask=<personal data hidden>> On Behalf Of Ask Extension Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2023 10:22 AM To: Nancy E Vogrin <<personal data hidden>> Subject: Re: Canadian Hemlock issue (#0112214)
expert: Hi, Peyton, A standard fertilizer applied in the fall is fine. 10-10-10 is very much acceptable. I understand it may be difficult to gather the needles. Perhaps use a blower to remove them from under the tree? No chemical application is recommended. Trimming out the affected branches will help. Thank you, -Julie
user: Thank you, Elliot! From: ask=<personal data hidden> <ask=<personal data hidden>> On Behalf Of Ask Extension Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2023 12:08 PM To: Nancy E Vogrin <<personal data hidden>> Subject: Re: Canadian Hemlock issue (#0112214)
| <Respond> | Hi, Peyton, when dealing with fabrella needle blight, it's important to balance the health of the tree with maintaining its structure. You should prioritize removing branches that are completely dead, as they no longer contribute to the tree's health and can harbor disease. For branches that are affected but still have some healthy needles, consider trimming only the most severely affected parts to improve air circulation and reduce disease spread, while preserving as much of the healthy foliage as possible. This approach helps maintain the tree's overall health and appearance. If the tree is significantly sparse, it might be beneficial to consult with a local arborist for a more tailored approach. Thank you, -Julie | 5 | [
"tree species: Canadian Hemlock",
"issue: fabrella needle blight",
"concern: whether to remove branches that are affected but still have some needles"
] | [] | |||
#875208 | user: Someone I know had podarigon wasps emerge from a mantis ootheca they bought and I want to know if they can release this species I'm not sure what county that are in so I just put mine but they are in Minnesota still
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more information about the specific species of podagrion wasp you are referring to, and any local regulations or guidelines regarding the release of non-native species in your area? | 1 | [
"species of interest: podagrion wasps",
"location: Minnesota"
] | [
"specific county or local regulations regarding the release of podagrion wasps",
"confirmation of the species of podagrion wasp in question"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#867360 | user: Hello,
I have a 30+ year old laurel hedge that appears to be dying. Can you tell me what is sassing this and if there is anything I can do to save it?
Thank you.
user: I meant to ask what is causing this not “sassing”. Thank you. Begin forwarded message:From: Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>>Date: May 6, 2024 at 10:24:10 PM PDTTo: Lynne Winkler <<personal data hidden>>Subject: Thank you for your Ask Extension question (#0137281) Dear, Logan, Thank you for using Ask Extension. A request for support has been created and a representative will follow-up with you as soon as possible. Questions are usually answered within two business days. You can view this question's progress online. YOUR QUESTION #0137281: Laurel hedge disease Hello, I have a 30+ year old laurel hedge that appears to be dying. Can you tell me what is sassing this and if there is anything I can do to save it? Thank you. Ask Extension offers one-to-one expert answers from Cooperative Extension/University staff and volunteers within participating Land-Grant institutions across the United States. If you wish to provide additional comments or information regarding the issue, please login to your account for a complete archive of your prior questions and answers. This message for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for personalized professional advice. For specific local information, contact your local county Cooperative Extension office or other qualified professionals. eXtension Foundation does not recommend or endorse any specific tests, professional services, products, procedures, opinions, or other information that may be mentioned. Reliance on any information provided by eXtension Foundation, employees, suppliers, member universities, or other third parties through eXtension is solely at the user's own risk. All eXtension content and communication is subject to the Terms of Use which may be revised at any time.
expert: Wow, your hedge does have troubles. Diagnostic work remotely is a challenge. I recommend you hire a certified arborist if we can’t figure this out together. To try this, I need a closer photo of a branch showing the place where it goes from alive to dead, if possible. A couple of distant views also. You need to illustrate the whole thing so we can see any pattern to the dead spots. How far back does the fully dead area reach? Dead is brittle and no green if you scratch the bark. Are these limbs dead clear to the trunk? Do you see lesions on the trunk bark? Then also, tell me everything you can think of about it. When did this start and how fast is it changing? What fertilizer or herbicides have been used in the area, and when. Describe summer irrigation. Has any construction or ditching been done? I hope we can get this, but it does become sort of a game of 20 questions.
user: Photos are attached.
user: More photos
user: Last 2 photos.
user: Hello,Thank you for your response. I will do my best to answer your questions. On May 9, 2024, at 4:26 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
user: Last 2 photos.
expert: The bark looks odd on the dead parts. Can you get a really close photo of it tomorrow? What do backs of leaves look like on the "sick but not dead" leaves? It almost looks like a scale insect. What happens if you scrape off the "bumps" on the bark? (Internet search "scale insect" and select images for a survey of how the different ones appear.) Another idea is that your plant is burned by something like hot exhaust from a car, truck, or maybe a gas powered hedge trimmer tool?
user: Thank you, Quinn. I will take more pics tomorrow and answer the rest of your questions. And no, I don’t believe the hedge is burned. It has not been exposed to any exhaust. On May 9, 2024, at 9:47 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Clarify> | Could you provide a close-up photo of the bark on the dead parts and describe the backs of the 'sick but not dead' leaves? Also, what happens when you scrape the 'bumps' on the bark? Additionally, any information on when the symptoms started, the use of fertilizers or herbicides, summer irrigation practices, and any recent construction or ditching activities would be helpful. | 10 | [
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"symptoms: appears to be dying",
"photos_provided: True",
"exposure_to_exhaust: False"
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"use of fertilizers or herbicides",
"summer irrigation practices",
"any recent construction or ditching activities"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#874911 | user: What’s wrong with my tomato plants? I’m not sure if it’s sun scald, insect damage, nutrient deficiency, or a mosaic virus. It only started appearing in the last few weeks, after fruit was set. I noticed black mite-like bugs on the pictured plants (but not other plants) earlier in the season and took care of them with a strong hose blast and neem oil. The current problem starts with a fading, rust colored or speckled bleaching of the leaves, which progresses to yellowing, wilting of the affected leaves, and the eventual death of the affected leaves. Stems seem fine. I planted these tomatoes from seed with new soil this year in a pot I had used last year. Variety is burpee veranda red hybrid, unsure if TMV/ToMV resistant. I have similar leaf discoloration on zucchini, marigolds, and dahlias, but peppers, cornflowers, and cucumbers unaffected so far. All plants being grown in fairly close proximity in separate containers. I use neem oil as a pesticide and miracle grow powder (mixes into water) fertilizer. Do I need to destroy affected plants? They don’t seem that sick, but I don’t know if this is an early sign of a bigger issue.
user: Here are more pictures of affected tomatoes:
user: Here is a neighboring tomato plant in a different pot. It seems less affected.
user: Nearby squash (one normal leaf, one affected)
user: Affected marigolds next to the squash:
user: Affected squash:
user: Tomato on other side of deck (~6’ away?) that is discolored but has not experienced leaf death
user: And one more picture of the tomato plant plus a squash plant that’s next to that tomato plant
user: Sorry for all the replies - I couldn’t fit the photos in fewer posts. I’m concerned this is either a mosaic virus that affects nightshades and cucurbits generally, but also I don’t want to destroy my entire garden if this is actually sunscald or nutrient deficiency. The timing in the season seems wrong for a mosaic virus, but broad variety of plants affected and leaf discoloration seem to match mosaic virus. All plants doing very well considering heat stress and whatever this issue is - none have completely died from this. All plants but the dahlias were grown from seed in new soil, in a mix of new and old pots. Dahlia plant purchased in current pot. Most were started indoors under grow lights and moved outside in April or May. All get neem oil for insects and standard miracle grow fertilizer about once a week, maybe a little less. None of the plants are new.
expert: Hi- based on the photos we think you may have a significant two-sotted spider mite population. Use a hand lens or magnifier to closely examine the undersides of leaves for signs of small mites walking around along with their eggs. You may also observe fine, white webbing. Mites love hot, dry weather and can produce many generations during the growing season. They don't like wet, humid conditions. Spray your plants in the morning to discourage and dislodge mites. The injury to your plants is significant so spraying with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, especially during hot weather, could exacerbate the damage. You can also wipe the mites off leaf undersides with a soft, damp cloth. If you can reduce the population and feeding you may get a decent tomato harvest. Keep plants well-watered and fertilize as needed. Consider moving containers to a spot where they will receive late afternoon shade. This will reduce heat stress to the plants and spider mite activity. There may be other sucking insect pests- leafhoppers, thrips, aphids, whiteflies- that are feeding on your marigolds and dahlias. Jon
user: Thank you so much!! I am incredibly relieved that it’s not likely a mosaic virus. Bugs I can fight (even if I can’t see them). if the plants are too damaged for horticultural oil, is spraying the plants with a strong hose the best method for removal? Or should I not try to remove the mites and instead focus on reducing the other sources of stress to the plants (heat, sun)?A follow up question: I have noticed spotted lanternfly nymphs on my squash plants. I reported them because they’re an invasive species, but I was not expecting them to damage my plants since I read they feed on trees mostly. Could they be causing the damage to those plants? Thanks again!! I am very grateful for your help!
| <Respond> | For managing spider mites, if the plants are too damaged for horticultural oil, using a strong hose spray is a good method to physically remove the mites. This can help reduce their population without causing additional stress to the plants. Focus on spraying the undersides of the leaves where mites tend to congregate. Additionally, reducing other stress factors like heat and sun exposure can help the plants recover. As for the spotted lanternfly nymphs, while they primarily feed on trees, they can occasionally feed on other plants. It's possible they could contribute to some damage, but they are unlikely to be the primary cause. Continue monitoring your plants and manage the nymphs as needed to prevent them from becoming a larger issue. | 11 | [
"presence_of_spider_mites: True",
"plants_affected: tomatoes, zucchini, marigolds, dahlias",
"current_management_methods: neem oil, miracle grow fertilizer, strong hose spray",
"presence_of_spotted_lanternfly_nymphs: True",
"user's concern about plant damage: True"
] | [] | |||
#885537 | user: Good morning…I’ve noticed that our front lawn is looking blotchy in color. Upon further inspection it appears that we have an infestation of crabgrass. I’m enclosing some pics. Could you please confirm. More importantly, how can I eradicate this nasty invasive? I’m open to both mechanical and chemical controls. Thanks for your help!
John
expert: Hi, Jordan, Based on what I can see, that is tall fescue (genus Festuca) rather than true crabgrass (genus Digitaria). Though tall fescue is often dubbed 'crabgrass,' unfortunately it is not the plant that can be controlled by certain selective herbicides labeled for 'crabgrass control' (they only work on the annual grassy weed). On the contrary, any chemical you would use to control the tall fescue will also damage your lawn. Your options are: 1. Live with it. 2. Spray it with a non-selective herbicide, like glyphosate, then re-seed or re-sod the area with your desired species. 3. Dig it out, and then re-seed or re-sod. I hope this is helpful! Cordially, John
user: Good morning John, thanks for the prompt reply!I’m going to use mechanical approach as primary with limited chemical controls. Is the glyphosate available over the counter? Also, if I recall Fall is a good time to undertake lawn reseeding…is that correct? If so I’m planning to tackle this weekend. Lastly, what type of grass seed mix would you recommend.Again, your help is greatly appreciated! Have a great day!JohnOn Tue, Sep 17, 2024 at 2:04 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Hi, Jordan, glyphosate is indeed available over the counter at most garden centers and home improvement stores. Fall is an excellent time for reseeding because the soil is still warm, which helps with seed germination, and the cooler temperatures reduce stress on the new grass. As for the grass seed mix, it depends on your location and the conditions of your lawn (e.g., sun exposure, soil type). Generally, a mix of Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and fine fescue is a good choice for a durable and lush lawn. Make sure to follow the instructions on the seed package for the best results. Good luck with your lawn renovation this weekend! Best, John | 3 | [
"infestation: tall fescue",
"control method: mechanical removal with limited chemical control",
"chemical: glyphosate",
"timing: Fall",
"action plan: mechanically remove and reseed",
"user's question: availability of glyphosate, timing for reseeding, and recommended grass seed mix"
] | [] | |||
#835569 | user: I am wondering if you can identify this.
| <Clarify> | Could you please provide a description of the plant or object in the image, or any specific details you are curious about? | 1 | [
"user_role: poet",
"user's interest: using the identified word in a poem"
] | [
"description of the image",
"any specific details about the plant or object in the image"
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|
#873700 | user: I have several white pines planted in wind rows about 10’ apart in sandy soil. They were planted about 4 years ago and over the last year have gotten new growth that didn’t develop needles or grew stunted needles. Now the old growth is drying up but new growth is emerging. I don’t see any blight but there is some sap forming on some of the tips that are drying up! Any ideas what I need to do to try and save the trees?
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more information on the recent weather conditions, such as any droughts or heavy rains, and your current irrigation practices? Additionally, have you noticed any signs of pests or diseases on the trees? | 1 | [
"tree species: white pines",
"planting arrangement: wind rows, 10’ apart",
"soil type: sandy",
"age of trees: 4 years",
"symptoms: new growth with stunted or no needles, old growth drying up, sap on drying tips",
"recent treatments: Hollytone in early June, possible lawn treatments last season"
] | [
"specific environmental conditions (e.g., recent weather patterns, water availability)",
"presence of pests or diseases",
"details on irrigation practices",
"any other recent changes in the environment or care routine"
] | |||
#825344 | user: We have a heavily shaded area ( 10 X 30 ) with tree roots on the surface. Type of tree unknown to me. What is the best choice for a ground cover (including xeroscaping)? Should addition of topsoil be avoided because of the roots on the surface? We are at about 5000'. Thanks for your help.
| <Respond> | For a heavily shaded area with surface tree roots, it's important to choose ground covers that can thrive in low light and do not require deep soil. Some suitable options include Vinca minor (periwinkle), Pachysandra terminalis (Japanese spurge), and Lamium maculatum (dead nettle). These plants are known for their ability to grow in shaded conditions and can tolerate root competition. As for xeriscaping, consider using mulch or decorative stones to reduce water usage and maintain soil moisture. Regarding the addition of topsoil, it is generally advisable to avoid adding a significant layer of topsoil over tree roots, as this can suffocate the roots and harm the tree. Instead, consider using a thin layer of organic mulch to improve soil quality without impacting the roots adversely. If you are considering mulch, shredded bark or wood chips are good options as they decompose slowly and provide nutrients to the soil. | 1 | [
"area_size: 10 x 30 feet",
"shade level: heavily shaded",
"tree roots: on the surface",
"elevation: 5000 feet",
"tree type: unknown"
] | [] | |||
#820358 | user: Hello,
I inherited a very healthy and robust rosemary bush when I moved into my house in Aug 2021. I know they are a perennial and it did well in 21-22 winter, but this winter it turned very brown, much more so than last year. It does still have some green.
1. Will it come back in the spring, or is it dead?
2. I’ve wanted to prune it back anyways, so if it’s still alive, when and how would you suggest pruning?
3. Unrelated to the rosemary, is it too early to start pruning rose bushes?
expert: Although we can't tell for certain from photos alone, the plant is probably dead or so weakened by the loss of most of its stems that any regrowth may be limited and not worth waiting for. (That is, replacement of the plant may be more practical instead of waiting all season to see how much recovery it's capable of.) Rosemary is at the edge of its cold tolerance in Maryland and DC, and while mild winter temperatures (both naturally and due to the warming effects of city pavement) can help it pull through, a cold snap after a mild spell can cause considerable damage. This year we have one or two of those episodes already (the first around late December) and we're already seeing lots of "winterburn" damage on other evergreen shrubs in MD and DC. Dry weather patterns can also worsen the risk of winterburn or branch dieback during such cold snaps, though rosemary is much more sensitive to good soil drainage than some shrubs and is equally at risk of dieback from soggy conditions. If it is alive, pruning should take place once new growth has resumed so you can more easily tell how far any given stem has died back. This may be around April or so, depending on weather trends. You won't have to remove dead foliage, as they'll fall off on their own (if the stem itself is alive; they may cling on if the stem is dead). As for pruning method, you'd just be cutting off any growth which isn't producing green foliage above a certain point, even if that means trimming off most of the current branches pretty close to the ground and waiting for the plant to rejuvenate from new stems arising from the roots. How many roots survived the cold is hard to predict, though mulching in autumn with a layer about 2 to 3 inches deep can help insulate them to a certain extent. It's a little early to trim roses yet, though if done now it's not likely to cause serious long-term problems for the plant. (When rose wholesale nursery growers ship plants to their nursery customers to pot-up for sale, they arrive already cut back, and those shipments occur in late winter.) Home rose growers usually trim around late February to early March in our region. Shrubby roses (as compared to climbing roses, which are maintained taller) tend to be trimmed down to around 18 inches off the ground, though this is not a hard-and-fast rule. When pruning, remove spindly, weak canes (stems) and any that are crossing-over and rubbing up against each other as this risks creating wounds which can become infected. (Stems growing into the canopy instead of outwards away from it also just add to foliage crowding which also increases the risk of disease issues on the foliage during summer. Thus, they too are removed so the plant can focus on growth that will be more productive, which are canes growing outwards from the center of the plant.) Trim just above a bud (which should become more prominent on the stems the closer we get to the break of dormancy) and make sure pruners are sharp so the cuts are clean and don't result in a crushing of the end of the stem. Miri
user: Thanks so much Miri! This is very helpful. I also have 2 vines (that I think are clematis, though not sure) that aren't looking too good. The first photo on the chain link fence in my front yard and the second is on the shed in myn back yard, both taken today 2/28. The third photo is when it was healthy in August. It produces small white flowers, i think in late spring. The shed vine seems to be doing better than the fence vine, but both don't look great. If you have any advice on whether i should prune back the dead folliage or leave it alone to see if it rebounds, that would be appreciated. Thank you! On Wed, Feb 15, 2023 at 3:20 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
expert: You're welcome. This looks like Clematis armandii, which is a species of Clematis that is barely winter-hardy in our area. (Due to the urban heat island in D.C., it would probably be more reliable most winters there.) It's also the only Clematis grown here that is evergreen, at least when not singed by winter weather. This damage looks like winterburn, which we're not surprised to see given the winter we've had thus far - while it's been mild overall, the two or more incidences of warm spells followed by a rapid drop to near-freezing caused damage on a range of evergreens, even if that damage took a while to manifest. The plant will drop the damaged leaves, and if any stems themselves died back, that will become more evident as we get further into spring, when new growth appears. At that point you can trim off the dead tips so you can see how far down to cut. If the roots are otherwise healthy, rebound growth should be good and the plant will recover at least some of its former size over the course of this growing season. Since this Clematis flowers on "old wood" and would have small dormant flower buds present on the stems during winter, those might have been lost this year, so don't be surprised if it doesn't flower much (if at all) this year due to the winterburn. Miri
user: Hello!I wanted to get your advice on an update to my clematis issue. I emailed you in Feb/March about some plants in my yard that had experienced winter burn. Most did not come back, but a clematis growing along side our shed showed some initial promise this spring.The first pic is how it looked in Feb when I originally emailed you. By the end of April, it was about 70% green by (see second pic), but has since died back entirely (see remaining pics taken today, 6/18).Do you know what happened to make it reverse course? Is there hope for it, or do you think it’s a goner?On Wed, Mar 1, 2023 at 9:16 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | It's unfortunate to hear about the decline of your clematis. Given the history of winter burn and the subsequent dieback, it's possible that the plant was too stressed to sustain new growth. The initial greening in spring might have been the plant's attempt to recover, but if the roots or main stems were too damaged, it could have led to the eventual dieback. Other factors such as soil conditions, water availability, or pest issues could also have contributed. At this point, if the plant has died back entirely, it may not recover. You can check for any signs of life by gently scratching the bark on the stems to see if there's any green tissue underneath. If not, it might be best to consider replacing the plant. For future plantings, ensuring good soil drainage and possibly providing some winter protection could help prevent similar issues. | 5 | [
"plant: clematis",
"location: alongside shed",
"initial condition: showed promise in spring, 70% green by end of April",
"current condition: died back entirely by June 18",
"previous issue: winter burn"
] | [] | |||
#875092 | user: The wild nettle patch on a hillside behind our house suddenly mostly dried up and the tassels have not formed. We have lived here for 20 years and this has never happened before. We live in Montpelier and have had rainy and dry periods this spring and early summer. We are wondering what to do to bring back a great source of nettles.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more information about the soil conditions, any signs of pests or diseases, recent changes in the environment, or your watering practices? This will help in diagnosing the issue with your nettle patch. | 1 | [
"location: Montpelier",
"weather conditions: rainy and dry periods in spring and early summer",
"issue: wild nettle patch mostly dried up and tassels have not formed"
] | [
"soil conditions",
"presence of pests or diseases",
"any recent changes in the environment or land use",
"watering practices"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#888831 | user: I have an orchard of about 40 apples trees. Have a major problem with different apple diseases. Scab, codling moth and unknown problem, mostly concerning honey crisp variety. I spray with dormant oil in fall and early spring. After blossom petal fall I spray with Bonide Fruit Tree spray about every 3-4 weeks. This is not doing the job. I would like your suggestion on a spray schedule. I try to pick to keep a clean orchard, disposing of all apples that have fallen off trees. A fertilizer recommendation could also be included. The main problem is with honeycrisp as pictures will indicate. I do have problems with scab, in different variety , and codling moth.
expert: Hello, Dakota, We are waiting on MSU Extension to publish a drafted home fruit spray guide, but in the meantime I like to suggest this guide from New Hampshire: https://extension.unh.edu/sites/default/files/migrated_unmanaged_files/Resource005256_Rep7402.pdf A general product like Bonide's fruit spray has limited ability to control every issue, especially on a difficult to manage cultivar like Honeycrisp. There are home spray products that have more specific and effective control than the general product you have been using. Just as important is timing your sprays effectively. You can use a tool like Enviroweather https://enviroweather.msu.edu/ to monitor conditions for specific pests and disease in your area based on weather conditions in addition to following the articles published in-season by our extension staff (for you the Northwest MI reports will be best) https://www.canr.msu.edu/fruit/ If you haven't done a soil test recently you should have one done, which would come with recommendations for fertilization. https://homesoiltest.msu.edu/get-started Your practice of keeping the orchard free from diseased fruit is one you should continue.
user: What is causing the damage to my honeycrisp apples? I am not talking about the ones affected by codling moth. Actually just found a worm in one of them. But majority just brown bruising and rotting apples while remaining on tree. On Sun, Oct 27, 2024 at 7:40 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote: Dear, Dakota, Thank you for using Ask Extension. A request for support has been created and a representative will follow-up with you as soon as possible. Questions are usually answered within two business days. You can view this question's progress online. YOUR QUESTION #0158747: apple disease I have an orchard of about 40 apples trees. Have a major problem with different apple diseases. Scab, codling moth and unknown problem, mostly concerning honey crisp variety. I spray with dormant oil in fall and early spring. After blossom petal fall I spray with Bonide Fruit Tree spray about every 3-4 weeks. This is not doing the job. I would like your suggestion on a spray schedule. I try to pick to keep a clean orchard, disposing of all apples that have fallen off trees. A fertilizer recommendation could also be included. The main problem is with honeycrisp as pictures will indicate. I do have problems with scab, in different variety , and codling moth. Ask Extension offers one-to-one expert answers from Cooperative Extension/University staff and volunteers within participating Land-Grant institutions across the United States. If you wish to provide additional comments or information regarding the issue, please login to your account for a complete archive of your prior questions and answers. This message for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for personalized professional advice. For specific local information, contact your local county Cooperative Extension office or other qualified professionals. eXtension Foundation does not recommend or endorse any specific tests, professional services, products, procedures, opinions, or other information that may be mentioned. Reliance on any information provided by eXtension Foundation, employees, suppliers, member universities, or other third parties through eXtension is solely at the user's own risk. All eXtension content and communication is subject to the Terms of Use which may be revised at any time.
expert: I can't say for sure what is causing the damage. When were the pictures you provided taken? Often those symptoms of browning are generalized responses to damage that can come from a variety of sources.
user: ABOUT A WEEK AGO On Wed, Oct 30, 2024 at 9:44 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the recent weather conditions in your area and any changes in your orchard management practices? Additionally, have you conducted any recent soil or tissue tests that might provide more insight into the issue? | 5 | [
"apple variety affected: Honeycrisp",
"symptoms: browning and rotting while remaining on the tree",
"timing of symptoms: pictures taken about a week ago",
"extent of issue: about 1/2 of Honeycrisp apples affected"
] | [
"specific environmental conditions (e.g., recent weather patterns)",
"any recent changes in orchard management practices",
"details from the attached images",
"results from any recent soil or tissue tests"
] | |||
#822661 | user: I’ve been noticing that something is eating the leaves of my potted white fig. I’ve removed the mulch incase it might be a beetle. Nothing. No apparent caterpillar or moth on plant. Can you help me?
| <Respond> | Based on the information you've provided, it seems likely that the damage to your potted white fig is due to cold injury rather than pest activity. When temperatures drop to the high 20s Fahrenheit, it can cause damage to the buds and leaves, especially if the plant is not adequately protected. To help your fig recover, you should move it to a more sheltered location or indoors during cold snaps. Additionally, consider using frost cloths or other protective coverings during cold nights in the future. Ensure the plant is well-watered but not overwatered, as this can help it recover from cold stress. Monitor the plant for any new growth as the weather warms up, and prune any dead or severely damaged parts to encourage healthy new growth. | 1 | [
"plant: potted white fig",
"symptoms: leaves being eaten or damaged",
"location: outside during winter in South Carolina",
"temperature exposure: high 20s Fahrenheit",
"possible cause: cold injury to the buds"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#832113 | user: My black walnut tree (which I propagated from a seed/nut) is about 4 yrs old and last fall i noticed that some of the small branches had turned yellow and dropped off and had brown spots on the leaves. The trunk of the tree had broken curling layer (bark). I thought it was anthracnose. I added some slow release nitrogen to the soil about 10 days ago as the leaves were starting to come out. About 4 days ago, I noticed that some of the leaves at the ends were turning black, curling and drying up. Do I have one problem or two? See attached pictures.
| <Clarify> | Have you noticed any signs of pests on the tree, such as insects or webs? Additionally, have there been any recent changes in the environment, such as construction or chemical use nearby, that could affect the tree? | 1 | [
"tree_age: 4",
"symptoms: yellowing and dropping of small branches, brown spots on leaves, broken curling bark, black, curling, and drying leaves",
"location: sunny with full sun",
"soil_type: sandy loam",
"watering_schedule: 2x a week, 2+ gallons each time",
"fertilization: slow release nitrogen applied 10 days ago"
] | [
"confirmation of anthracnose or other diseases",
"presence of pests",
"any recent environmental changes",
"soil nutrient levels"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#877835 | user: I’ve got a significant population of green inchworm like things that are eating my elm trees and dropping poppyseed like things all over our property.
expert: Are the eaten areas on the leaves in a zigzag pattern? The larva does not show the dorsal stripe listed in the description. However it may be some kind of sawfly. How long is the larva(inchworm type thing)? https://apps.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/insect/trees-shrubs/caterpillars/small/roselugsawfly.html
user: Hi, Alex, It definitely doesn’t look like the sawfly larva from the link you sent. The larva are between 1/2” and 1” There’s definitely a dark band near one end but my camera doesn’t catch it well. I’ve attached a couple more pictures. It’s difficult to tell whether it’s a zigzag pattern on the leaf because most of the leaves at an accessible height have been completely removed. But I was able to get one picture which I have also attached. Thanks for your help. Paul On Thu, Jul 18, 2024 at 5:57 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Based on your description and the images you provided, it does seem likely that you are dealing with the elm zigzag sawfly, especially given the distinctive characteristics you've noted. Although this pest has not been previously reported in Minnesota, your observations could indicate a new occurrence. I recommend contacting your local extension office to report this finding, as they may want to investigate further. In terms of management, if the infestation is severe, you might consider using insecticidal soap or neem oil, which are generally effective against sawfly larvae. Additionally, monitoring your trees for further damage and removing any larvae you can find manually could help reduce their impact. Thank you for bringing this to our attention. | 3 | [
"pest_description: Green inchworm-like larvae with a dark band near one end, between 1/2” and 1” in length.",
"damage_description: Leaves have been completely removed, making it difficult to identify a zigzag pattern.",
"user's hypothesis: User suspects it is the elm zigzag sawfly.",
"location: Minnesota"
] | [] | |||
#876303 | user: Hello, Peyton of our laurels are dying off. I'm afraid that it may be from drought stress from not enough water. I realized last week that the soil under them was arid. I'm not sure that it isn't disease either. I've had some wilting then die branches randomly over the years. I've attached some pictures.
expert: Hello, Skyler, Tell me more about your skip Cherry Laurel. It appears it is growing in direct sun. How much sun does it get every day? I can't see from the photo if the dying portion is a branch or the entire shrub. When you noticed it wilting, did you water it? What is the ground conditions of the other laurels to the left and right? Are they wilting as well? Can you take more photos and send close ups? Are you seeing anything that looks like fungal spots or other noticeable marks on the leaves (check the back of the leaves as well) or stems and branches? Look closely to the branches. Do you see any damage to the stems on the bottom side? I saw Cicada damage on a limb tip earlier today that was not noticed by the home owner. I showed the homeowner the damage to one of their foundation plants next to their home that looks similar to what is pictured in you photos you provided. r/mart
user: Good morning,They are in direct morning sun until about noon, then mainly shade. I have noticed some wilting of individual branches over the years, but not to this extent or die off like this. I've always just cut them out. I'm not sure what to look for as far as fungal spots. I see tiny black spots on the backs of the leaves. I took some close ups of those. I did not see any Cicadas around the shrub area. Here are more pictures. I've also included one from down the row that is beginning to show some stress as well. We are so sad to see these dying. I worked so hard 4 years ago to install these for a hedge and now it looks like we will loose them. I have put about 50 gallons of drip irrigation on these in that last week as soon as I realized they were so dry. I'm not sure if I should water more. Thanks, Cameron T EasterlingEasterling Fine Homes (o)<personal data hidden> (f)<personal data hidden> easterlingfinehomes.com AccreditedBuilder (January '14) nchba.org Certified Green Professional (September '14) Master Certified Green Professional (October '16) nahb.org On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 2:41 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
expert: First, keep wAtering them. I think it prudent for me to make a home visit. I see what appears to be a canker which suggest pathogen. I can take a physical sample to the NCSU plant, disease and insect clinic for analysis there is a $20 fee if you choose this route. You pay the lab after they provide a diagnosis i am the crops and hort extension agent forOrange County nc. If you decide you want me to conduct a home visit, call me during the work day on my cell to set up an appointment. . My cell is 804-3-8-7493. R/mart
user: Good morning. Just checking to see if you received our response? Thanks, Cameron T EasterlingEasterling Fine Homes (o)<personal data hidden> (f)<personal data hidden> easterlingfinehomes.com AccreditedBuilder (January '14) nchba.org Certified Green Professional (September '14) Master Certified Green Professional (October '16) nahb.org On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 2:41 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
user: Hi, Elliot,I did not see this earlier. I tried calling your cell but I think there is a number missing. Can you please send that again? Thanks, Cameron T EasterlingEasterling Fine Homes (o)<personal data hidden> (f)<personal data hidden> easterlingfinehomes.com AccreditedBuilder (January '14) nchba.org Certified Green Professional (September '14) Master Certified Green Professional (October '16) nahb.org On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 8:41 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
user: Hey Mart,Thanks again for coming out to look at the laurels. We got about 2" of rain and I watered them with another 15 gallons or so, so they should be happy. They are still showing stress with further weakening branches. Hoping that goes away soon. I found at the base of the first shrub to die bore holes and I took pictures (attached) hoping they are not Greater Peachborer. It appears there might have been some sort of paint applied if that is not natural and maybe that was something that happened at the nursery. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks, Cameron T EasterlingEasterling Fine Homes (o)<personal data hidden> (f)<personal data hidden> easterlingfinehomes.com AccreditedBuilder (January '14) nchba.org Certified Green Professional (September '14) Master Certified Green Professional (October '16) nahb.org On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 8:41 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Hi, Cameron, thank you for the update and for submitting the samples to pathology. The bore holes you found could indeed be indicative of a pest issue, such as the Greater Peach Borer, which can cause significant damage to laurels. The presence of tiny black spots on the leaves might suggest a fungal issue, but it's crucial to wait for the pathology results to confirm the exact cause. In the meantime, continue with consistent watering, especially during dry spells, and monitor the shrubs closely for any further changes. Once you receive the pathology results, we can determine the best course of action to treat the shrubs effectively. Please keep me updated on any new developments. | 7 | [
"location: Direct morning sun until noon, then mainly shade",
"watering: 50 gallons of drip irrigation last week, additional 15 gallons after 2 inches of rain",
"symptoms: Wilting, dying branches, tiny black spots on leaves, bore holes at the base",
"actions taken: Branches and trunk sample submitted to pathology for analysis"
] | [
"Results from the pathology analysis"
] | |||
#886104 | user: Please tell me if this is wild fescue or some other weed in the lawn. It grows quicker than the other grass and appears to be in a clump instead of a single blade when I pull it up.
| <Clarify> | Could you describe any specific visual characteristics of the plant, such as the color, texture, or any unique features that might help in identifying it? Additionally, knowing your location or region could help in narrowing down the possibilities. | 1 | [
"growth pattern: Grows quicker than other grass and appears in clumps",
"user preference: Avoid using chemicals due to a dog in the yard"
] | [
"Visual characteristics from the image",
"Specific location or region of the lawn",
"Any other distinguishing features of the plant"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#840009 | user: I’m wondering what kind of bug this is. In thought maybe it was a wood cockroach, but someone suggested it was a tawny cockroach. I live about an hour from Traverse City and I read your article that says they were found there. They have been coming into my house, and I just saw one in my deck. They are always quite small. Thanks!
| <Clarify> | Could you please provide a description of the cockroach's appearance from the image you attached? This will help in confirming the type of cockroach you are dealing with. | 1 | [
"location: An hour from Traverse City",
"suspected types: wood cockroach, tawny cockroach",
"size: quite small",
"sighting locations: inside the house, on the deck"
] | [
"visual characteristics from the image",
"confirmation of the cockroach type"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#822000 | user: A vine covers a large portion of my property near the road. Every year, I try to cut it back, because it blocks the view of the road when pulling out of my driveway. I have also tried to spray it, which helped kill some of it for a while. It always grows back, coming out of the ground in multiple shoots and climbing up any branches and twigs and then all the way up the surrounding trees. It has thorns as well.
I don't know what it is, but I want to get rid of it completely, if possible, so I don't have to keep cutting it every year.
How can I do that?
expert: I unable to ID based on the pictures submitted. Please resubmit with a closeup when it has leafed out this year. While dormant, you can cut the vines close to the ground, leaving the top to die naturally. That will make chemical control easier in the summer.
user: Thank you. I will do that. From: ask=<personal data hidden> <ask=<personal data hidden>> on behalf of Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> Sent: Wednesday, March 8, 2023 3:54 PM To: Karen Gill <<personal data hidden>> Subject: Re: How to get rid of climbing vine (#0091928)
user: IMG_7827.jpeg Please see attached for the photo of the vine now with leaves. Thank you. From: ask=<personal data hidden> <ask=<personal data hidden>> on behalf of Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> Sent: Wednesday, March 8, 2023 3:54 PM To: Karen Gill <<personal data hidden>> Subject: Re: How to get rid of climbing vine (#0091928)
| <Respond> | Thank you for providing the photos. Based on the images and your description, it seems like you might be dealing with a type of invasive vine, possibly something like a wild rose or a bramble. To effectively remove it, you can follow these steps:
1. **Manual Removal**: Cut the vine back to the ground level. This is best done in late winter or early spring before new growth starts.
2. **Chemical Control**: After cutting, apply a systemic herbicide containing glyphosate or triclopyr directly to the freshly cut stems. This will help ensure the chemical is absorbed into the root system. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for safe and effective use.
3. **Monitor and Repeat**: Keep an eye on the area for any new growth. You may need to repeat the chemical application on new shoots to fully eradicate the vine.
4. **Preventive Measures**: Consider planting ground cover or other plants that can compete with the vine to prevent it from re-establishing.
If you are unsure about using chemicals, you might want to consult with a local extension service or a professional for assistance. Good luck with your efforts to clear the vine! | 4 | [
"vine characteristics: Thorny, grows in multiple shoots, climbs trees, obstructs view",
"user's actions: Cutting back, spraying",
"current state: Photos provided with leaves"
] | [] | |||
#822921 | user: Found this bug in my bathroom. Worried it is a tick. Can you identify?
| <Respond> | Based on your suspicion that the bug is a carpet beetle, here are some pet and child-safe treatment options:
1. **Vacuuming**: Regularly vacuum carpets, rugs, and upholstered furniture to remove beetles and larvae. Make sure to dispose of the vacuum bag or contents immediately.
2. **Washing**: Wash any infested fabrics in hot water and dry them on high heat to kill any remaining larvae.
3. **Diatomaceous Earth**: Sprinkle food-grade diatomaceous earth around the edges of carpets and in cracks and crevices. It is safe for pets and children but effective against insects.
4. **Essential Oils**: Use essential oils like lavender or peppermint as natural repellents. You can mix a few drops with water and spray it around the affected areas.
5. **Professional Pest Control**: If the infestation is severe, consider hiring a professional pest control service that uses eco-friendly and non-toxic methods.
These methods should help manage the situation while keeping your home safe for pets and children. | 1 | [
"user_suspects: carpet beetle",
"user_concern: pet and child-safe treatment"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#875515 | user: I have red dwarf spiders all over a watermelon in my garden. I first saw them in a cluster on the mellow, but they started to move out as I took the attached picture. Are they harmful to my plant/garden?
| <Respond> | Based on your description and the assumption that these are milkweed assassin nymphs, they are generally considered beneficial insects. They prey on a variety of other insects, including some that are harmful to plants. While they do eat both harmful and beneficial insects, they typically do not harm plants themselves, including your watermelons. It is usually best to leave them alone as they can help control pest populations naturally. If you notice any specific issues with your plants, it might be worth monitoring the situation, but in most cases, they should not pose a threat to your garden. | 1 | [
"insect_identification: Possibly milkweed assassin nymphs",
"user's concern: Potential harm to watermelon plant",
"user's observation: They eat both harmful and beneficial insects",
"user's assumption: They won't eat watermelons"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#842228 | user: I planted 3 Highbush Cranberry viburnum about 30 years ago. Over the years they have sent up lots of new shoots and even suckered somewhat. We occasionally have gone in and removed old growth and all seemed normal until this year. We're noticing some branches that appear to come from the same source, but have super large leaves. If the original were roughly 2 1/2" from top to bottom, the leaves in question can be as big as 6-8". We're trying to figure out if there's actually some different plants/vines somehow mixed in there, but every time we follow the stem it seems to lead back to one that we know is original and has the smaller leaves. I don't remember this ever happening before. Could we have an imposter mixed in somehow? Or do plants under stress sometimes create really large leaves?
I've enclosed a picture that has a regular branch circled in blue and 2 questionable leaves circled in red.
expert: Thanks for your question. Quick question first for you. Have the questionable leaves, circled in red, developed any berries? If so, what color are they? Looking forward to your response. Many thanks!
user: I could have sworn that I’d seen berry clusters on at least one of the big-leaf stems, but my husband did a little cleanup yesterday so I can’t verify that - and it’s very possible I’m wrong. I took a couple more pictures and will try attaching them here for you. The bark on the stems looks very similar to th viburnum, but the new shoots are coming out large and green and almost seem to have small ridges. Also, the deer (or other pests?) have been ignoring the small leaves of the viburnum, but have been going after the large leaves. Sent from my iPhone On Jul 23, 2023, at 11:09 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Based on the information provided, it is possible that the large leaves are a result of a different plant or a rootstock that has taken over. In some cases, plants can be grafted onto a different rootstock, and if the rootstock is more vigorous, it can produce larger leaves. The fact that the deer are eating the large leaves but not the smaller ones suggests that the large leaves might belong to a different species that is more palatable to wildlife. To confirm, you could look for a grafting site on the plant, which might appear as a noticeable bulge or change in bark texture at the base of the plant. Additionally, if you can observe any berries, their color and shape could help in identifying the plant. If the large leaves are indeed from a different plant, you may need to consider removing those shoots to prevent them from overtaking the original viburnum. | 3 | [
"original planting: Highbush Cranberry viburnum planted 30 years ago",
"new growth: New shoots and suckers have appeared over the years",
"leaf size anomaly: Some branches have leaves 6-8 inches long, larger than the original 2.5 inches",
"leaf and stem characteristics: Large leaves have similar bark to viburnum, new shoots are large, green, and ridged",
"wildlife interaction: Deer or pests ignore small leaves but eat large leaves"
] | [
"Definitive identification of the large-leaf plant",
"Presence and color of berries on large-leaf stems"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#833920 | user: I have a hop vine, about 8 years old, grown for decoration and trained horizontally on wires on the west side of my house. It has never had any disease problems in the past but I was out of town last week and returned to find it developing brown spots and patches on older. lower leaves. It is watered by a soaker hose and grown in a large nursery pot with the bottom cut out. Can you tell me what the problem most likely is?
expert: Thank you, Jamie for your question to "Ask Extension". The pictures that you provided were excellent but inconclusive. I have tried to match them with all pest and fungal and viral diseases in hops without success. Since you stated that this is only on older growth and happened in a very short time period I suspect that this might be some kind of chemical (herbicide) drift. I would be very interested in knowing if any future growth may have similar damage, including new growth and the cones. I have provided you with a link to the extensive website that I referenced for my response. http://ippc2.orst.edu/hop/HopHandbook2010.pdf I hope that this information is useful. As always Happy Gardening.
user: Kevin- Thanks for the response. As far as I know, there has been no herbicide sprayed anywhere near the hop vine and it's pretty isolated from any possible drift but I'll keep an eye on the new leaves and cones and report further damage. Thanks for the info link, also.JanOn Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 8:30 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Based on the new information you provided, it seems plausible that downy mildew could be affecting your hop vine, especially since the symptoms are appearing on newer leaves and seem to be originating from the same bine. Downy mildew is a common issue in hops and can cause the symptoms you described. To manage downy mildew, consider the following steps:
1. **Prune Affected Areas**: As you mentioned, removing the affected bine and its offshoots is a good start. This can help prevent the spread of the disease.
2. **Improve Air Circulation**: Ensure that there is good air circulation around the plant to reduce humidity, which can help prevent the spread of downy mildew.
3. **Fungicide Application**: Consider using a fungicide that is effective against downy mildew. Be sure to follow the label instructions carefully.
4. **Monitor and Maintain**: Keep a close eye on the plant for any new symptoms and maintain good cultural practices to keep the plant healthy.
If the problem persists or worsens, you may want to consult with a local extension service or a professional for further diagnosis and treatment options. Good luck, and I hope your hop vine recovers soon! | 3 | [
"plant: hop vine",
"age: 8 years",
"location: west side of house",
"growth pattern: trained horizontally on wires",
"watering method: soaker hose",
"container: large nursery pot with bottom cut out",
"symptoms: brown spots and patches on older, lower leaves",
"potential cause considered: chemical (herbicide) drift",
"new information: possible downy mildew, symptoms on newer leaves, originating from the same bine"
] | [] | |||
#840055 | user: "LENS" app identified this as Harry Lauders Walking Stick. (Corylus Avellana). Is it? Started dying early 2023. See photos. Can you identify and diagnose? Thank you.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the symptoms you've observed, such as leaf discoloration, wilting, or any signs of pests or disease? Additionally, information about the plant's growing conditions and any care practices or treatments you've tried would be helpful. | 1 | [
"plant: Harry Lauder's Walking Stick (Corylus Avellana)",
"issue: Started dying early 2023",
"user has contacted: Franklin County Extension Office"
] | [
"specific symptoms observed",
"environmental conditions",
"care practices",
"any treatments already attempted"
] | |||
#831368 | user: This Norway maple is in its 3rd year in this location, and has done well up until this spring. It is fairly close to a large Pondersoa pine. But gets lots of water.
I have more pictures, but couldnt load them
| <Clarify> | Can you provide more information about the soil conditions and drainage around the Norway maple? Additionally, have you noticed any signs of pests or diseases, and what is the sunlight exposure like for this tree? | 1 | [
"tree species: Norway maple",
"age/location: 3rd year in current location",
"proximity: Close to a large Ponderosa pine",
"watering: Gets lots of water",
"root disturbance: None",
"bud break: Occurred over the last couple of weeks, bottom leaves only",
"leaf color: Bottom leaves turned beautiful purple",
"blossoms: Maple blossoms on nearly all the buds",
"top leaves: Did not break",
"weather conditions: No bitter cold nights, heavy rain, and small hail",
"weed spraying: None",
"tree condition: No wounds, holes, or sap from branches",
"other trees: Other trees in the yard are doing great"
] | [
"Soil conditions and drainage",
"Fertilization practices",
"Pest or disease presence",
"Sunlight exposure"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#830154 | user: Attached are photos of a wildflower which grows on a shaded hillside behind my backyard, and appears to be perhaps some kind of penstemon, but I am unable to find an exact match.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide a detailed description of the wildflower's characteristics, such as its color, size, leaf shape, and any other notable features? Additionally, do you know the time of year when it typically blooms? | 1 | [
"location: Hillsboro, OR",
"environment: shaded hillside",
"user's initial guess: some kind of penstemon"
] | [
"detailed description of the flower's characteristics (e.g., color, size, leaf shape)",
"time of year when the flower blooms",
"any other notable features (e.g., scent, growth pattern)"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#877642 | user: Hi there, I'm wondering if this is Aster Yellows. These giant coneflowers put out normal flowers early in the year then, after wind blew off some petals, put out multiple heads. The leaves are also light yellow with green veins, indicative of aster yellows. I also noticed some gray headed coneflower and joe pyeweed, planted at the same time nearby, not being productive or as productive as plants planted later in the year with yellow leaves.
| <Clarify> | Could you confirm if you've noticed any leafhoppers around your plants, as they are common carriers of Aster Yellows? Additionally, have you had a chance to compare the symptoms in your images with typical Aster Yellows symptoms? | 1 | [
"symptoms: Giant coneflowers with multiple heads, light yellow leaves with green veins, nearby plants not being productive with yellow leaves."
] | [
"Confirmation from images if symptoms match Aster Yellows",
"Information on whether the user has observed any leafhoppers, which are common vectors for Aster Yellows"
] | |||
#826472 | user: Shoulder damage means no lifting fluorescent lights over seedlings. LEDs weigh less, but nowhere on the internet can I find the new "two inches from the tube".
Any experts know this distance?
expert: Hi and thanks for your interesting question about placing LED grow lights. I'll attach the best article I found, but generally it seems 1-1.5 inches above the plants is recommended. To me, this means moving the light up as the plants grow, kind of a hassle. Another site recommends watching the plants and if they are yellow, move the light away and if leggy, move the light closer. At any rate, I hope you can figure a way to move the lights as the plants grow. https://www.johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/agent-articles/vegetables/lighting_options_for_Seeds.html
user: Thanks, Skyler,I've always been an early adopter...usually by choice, but this time it was disability and age.The Johnson.k-state article follows the pattern of most of my research: try this and then try this. With no date. This is a fine academic response where the physical limitations are basically unlimited with matching unlimited funding. Old folks on SSI in a garage don't have that situation and seek support from experts, maybe I could add that at 73 years old my time is limited...Must I say Government Agencies and University-based research are supposed to help the public?Let me rephrase my question: with the energy saving benefits of LED lighting and spectrum specific diodes, has any research been done to address either commercial or residential vegetable seed starting?What I'm finding in my first spring of LED lighting seems to indicate that the lower temperature radiation of LED lights is making my seed starting cabinet cool.Any other available research? Thanks again,Tom Berninghausen----- Original Message ------ From "Ask Extension" <<personal data hidden>> To "t.berninghausen" <<personal data hidden>> Date 4/21/2023 11:19:24 AM Subject Re: Moving to LED seed starting... (#0096398)
| <Respond> | Hi, Drew, thank you for sharing more about your situation. Given your physical limitations and the cooler temperatures you're experiencing with LED lights, there are a few strategies you might consider. First, ensure that your heating mats are functioning properly and are set to the appropriate temperature for germination, which is typically around 70-75°F for peppers. You might also consider insulating your seed starting area to retain more heat, especially if your garage is cooler. Additionally, using reflective materials around your plants can help maximize the light and warmth they receive. As for research, while specific studies on LED lighting for seed starting are still emerging, many gardeners have found success by adjusting the height and intensity of their LED lights based on plant response. Keep an eye on your plants' growth and adjust accordingly. I hope these suggestions help, and I wish you the best in your gardening endeavors. | 3 | [
"user's physical limitations: Shoulder damage, balance problems, intolerance to heat",
"current setup: Using LED lights, heating mat for each flat, dome over the flat",
"issues faced: Cooler temperatures in seed starting cabinet, no peppers in successive plantings",
"user's context: Limited resources and time due to age and disability"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#883951 | user: Hello,
A large branch (maybe 6" in diameter) broke off a tree on our property. Do we need to have it professionally treated (the wound sealed, etc.) or removed (very expensive!), or can we let nature take its course.
We've been members for a long time and can provide our membership number if this will help.
Thank you.
Best regards
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the type of tree and the location of the break? Additionally, is the tree otherwise healthy, and are there any safety concerns with the broken branch? | 1 | [
"branch size: 6 inches in diameter",
"concern: whether to treat the wound or let nature take its course"
] | [
"type of tree",
"location of the break on the tree",
"overall health of the tree",
"any safety concerns related to the broken branch"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#825851 | user: Hello, I have eight boxwood plants that were six feet tall which I cut to half size in the fall and wrapped in burlap in hopes they would recover. Today I found white spore or egg like clusters all over seven of the eight. Please advise! And thank you!
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the white clusters? Are they located on the leaves, stems, or elsewhere? Additionally, have you noticed any other symptoms or changes in the plants? Information about recent care practices and environmental conditions would also be helpful. | 1 | [
"plant_type: boxwood",
"initial_height: six feet",
"current_height: three feet",
"action_taken: cut to half size and wrapped in burlap",
"symptom: white spore or egg-like clusters",
"number_of_affected_plants: seven out of eight"
] | [
"description of the clusters",
"location of the clusters on the plant",
"any other symptoms observed",
"environmental conditions (e.g., humidity, temperature)",
"recent care practices (e.g., watering, fertilization)"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#879116 | user: For a number of years, we have seen the oak tree leaves turn brown, as you can see in the pictures. I believe the tree is a Burr Oak. Tree companies have not been able to solve it so I wonder if you might have a suggestion as to what is causing this and what we can do about it. Thanks. John
expert: Hi, Jordan, Sorry to hear about your tree challenges and thanks for sending along photos - that's always helpful! To aid us in understanding the problem, would you be able to give a little more information: How long has the tree been planted? What is the current watering regimen for it? When did you first notice these symptoms? Are you seeing the symptoms on the whole tree or only on some of the leaves? It would also be helpful if you can send a few more photos of the tree including one further away so we can see the surrounding area and get an idea of where it's planted. If you would like: you're able to drop off sample at the extension office for our diagnostic team to look at. The cost is $7, and an ideal sample is an 18" long branch (if you can) that contains both good and bad leaves. Our address is 9595 Nelson Rd, Longmont and we are open Monday to Friday from 8:30 to 4. In the meantime, here's an article from the Minnesota extension that details potential causes of browning of leaves on oaks. What you may notice (and where it's helpful to get more info about the tree) is that there are several different issues that manifest with similar symptoms: https://apps.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/plant/deciduous/oak/leavesbrownedges.html Thanks for reaching out! The Boulder County Extension Master Gardeners
user: Additional photos are attached. The symptoms are on the entire tree. The tree is probably 15+ years old and could be 50’ tall. It is not on our irrigation system. However, there are other bur oaks next to us which don’t get watered and they are fine. I have had the tree feed, by root injection, to no avail. I hope this information is helpful. Thanks again and I look forward to hearing from you. John On Jul 31, 2024, at 5:31 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Thank you for the additional information and photos, John. Given that the browning is affecting the entire tree and considering the age and size of your Burr Oak, there are a few potential causes to consider. Since the tree is not on an irrigation system, drought stress could be a factor, especially if there have been dry spells in your area. However, since nearby Burr Oaks are unaffected, it might be worth investigating other causes such as Oak Wilt, a fungal disease that can cause similar symptoms. Another possibility is root damage or compaction, which can affect water uptake. I recommend having a certified arborist inspect the tree for signs of disease or root issues. Additionally, you might consider a soil test to check for nutrient deficiencies or imbalances. If you haven't already, submitting a sample to the extension office as previously suggested could provide more specific insights. Please let me know if you have any further questions or need additional assistance. | 3 | [
"tree_species: Burr Oak",
"symptoms: Leaves turning brown on the entire tree",
"tree_age: 15+ years old",
"tree_height: 50 feet tall",
"watering_regimen: Not on irrigation system",
"comparison: Other nearby Burr Oaks are fine",
"previous_attempts: Tree has been fed by root injection"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#835221 | user: We have pine trees, sorry I don't know the exact kind, and I noticed when pulling back the bark mulch that there are many roots on the surface of the ground. I am wondering if this is normal? If it is, how to best take care of them from any kind of damage or disease? If it is not, what might be the reason that the roots are on the surface and what is the best way to mend the problem?
Thank you in advance.
expert: Those are branches that have dropped their needless because they have been shaded out. They are normal and can be pruned off. I would wait until the weather is cold because they will leak sap. The sap is very sticky and annoying in a garden and it will dry before spring. They don’t have to be pruned off but they do get in the way and they will never get new needles.
user: Hello, I don't believe my question was answered at all. I did not ask anything about the branches in our tree. That issue is from the rabbits last winter. My original question was about the trees roots that are right on the surface of the ground. Is this normal, because there seems to be a lot of small roots on the surface and I want to protect them properly or in courage them to grow deeper in the soil. Thank you, Peyton
| <Respond> | Surface roots in pine trees can be quite normal, especially as the tree matures. These roots can appear on the surface due to several reasons, such as soil erosion, shallow soil, or the natural growth pattern of the tree. To manage these roots, you can add a layer of mulch around the base of the tree, which can help protect the roots from damage and maintain soil moisture. However, avoid piling the mulch directly against the trunk to prevent rot. Encouraging roots to grow deeper can be challenging, but ensuring the tree is well-watered during dry periods and avoiding soil compaction can help. If the roots are causing issues, consulting with an arborist for a more tailored solution might be beneficial. | 3 | [
"tree type: pine trees",
"roots are on the surface: True",
"user wants to know if this is normal: True",
"user wants to know how to manage surface roots: True"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#830653 | user: We just noticed our 3 year old peach tree has this brown blob around the base of the trunk on the ground? It is a gel like substance. We have not done anything to the tree. The tree is planted in our flower garden. There are a few tulips around the tree that did not bloom this year. Can anyone identity this? What should we do with it? Can the peach tree be saved, will it be ok? We have another one year old Peach Tree nearby will it be ok, is this brown mass contagious? Thank you for any advice!
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the condition of the tree's leaves and branches? Are there any signs of pests or disease on the tree or nearby plants? Additionally, have there been any recent changes in the care or environment of the tree? | 1 | [
"tree_age: 3 years",
"substance_location: base of the trunk on the ground",
"substance_description: brown, gel-like",
"tree_location: flower garden",
"nearby plants: tulips, another 1-year-old peach tree"
] | [
"any recent changes in care or environment",
"presence of pests or signs of disease",
"condition of the tree's leaves and branches",
"soil conditions and drainage"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#880074 | user: Hello. We live in a log home in Juneau, Alaska, and suddenly -- over the last week or so -- we have waves of bugs that we do not recognize. The majority of them are on or around a living room window, but some are also found in the kitchen near the window and sometimes on the counter. I am going to attach several photos. It would be great if you can tell us what they are, and what we can do to get rid of them!
| <Respond> | Based on your description and the behavior of the insects, it is possible that you are dealing with carpenter ants, especially since they are often found near windows and can disappear during the evening. The absence of sawdust is not uncommon, as they may be depositing it in hidden areas. For DIY pest control, you can look for ant baits that contain active ingredients like borax or fipronil, which are effective against carpenter ants. Place these baits near the areas where you have seen the ants. It's important to follow the instructions on the product for safe and effective use. If the problem persists, consulting a professional pest control service might be necessary to ensure that the infestation is fully addressed. | 1 | [
"location: Juneau, Alaska",
"bug behavior: Not nocturnal, seen on sunny windows, disappear in the evening",
"absence of sawdust: No piles of sawdust found",
"interest in DIY pest control: User is considering using bait or poison for carpenter ants"
] | [
"Confirmation of bug identification from photos"
] | |||
#826612 | user: I removed invasive vines and want to reseed. This area is over a leech field and not irrigated although I can use sprinklers to get it started. Need suggestions on what type of seed to buy and where?
Thank you, Charlie
expert: Hi, Charlie, You've got a few options. Do you mow the area or leave it to grow, and how tall would you like the grass to be? Cordially, John
user: It gets mowed 2 times a month during mid summer growth. Low grow would be fine. On Fri, Apr 21, 2023, 4:50 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Given your conditions, I recommend using a fine fescue blend. Fine fescues, such as hard fescue, chewings fescue, and creeping red fescue, are well-suited for low-maintenance areas and can tolerate some drought once established. They also grow well in poor soil conditions, which might be the case over a leech field. You can find these seeds at most garden centers or online retailers. Make sure to follow the seeding instructions on the package for the best results. Initially, use your sprinklers to keep the soil moist until the grass is established. | 3 | [
"area: over a leech field",
"mowing frequency: twice a month",
"desired grass height: low grow",
"irrigation: not irrigated, but sprinklers can be used initially"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#866771 | user: I have a weed like Nutgrass in my flower garden that I can not get rid of. It has an extensive root and is growing with the pachysandra.
Attached is a picture, please help me properly ID it.
expert: We can't see enough detail to determine the plant's ID, though it does look a bit like Johnsongrass, an invasive species. (We're not convinced the pictured weed is a grass, though, as the base of the leaf blade doesn't look quite right.) If this is not a grass, the plant may need to come into bloom before we can come up with an ID, since flower traits are very important when identifying plants with similar-looking foliage. Miri
user: Miri, Thank you for getting back to me. I took a couple more pictures, pulled a couple out so you can see the roots. This weed tends to grow @ 16”-18” high and I have not seen it flower the last couple of years… The tips are little bit purple because I’ve sprayed it w/Image thinking its Nutgrass but the weedkiller just bubbles up on the leaves and doesn’t soak in. I’ve also tried Sledgehammer a couple time which did nothing so I don’t think its Nutgrass. What else can I do to properly identify this weed ? It constantly regrows and spreads… Thank you, Taylor
| <Respond> | Thank you for the additional information and the new pictures, Michael. Since the weed has now flowered, it will be much easier to identify. Please examine the flower closely and compare it to images of common weeds in your area, or consider taking a sample to a local extension office or nursery for a more precise identification. Once identified, you can choose a targeted herbicide or management strategy. If the weed is indeed a type of sedge or grass, a specific herbicide for that category may be necessary. Additionally, consider cultural control methods such as improving drainage or altering soil conditions, as some weeds thrive in specific environments. Let me know if you need further assistance! | 3 | [
"weed characteristics: height: 16-18 inches, root system: extensive, leaf treatment: purple tips from herbicide, flowering: recently flowered",
"previous treatments: Image, Sledgehammer",
"ineffectiveness of treatments: does not absorb herbicide, regrows and spreads"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#841116 | user: I have identified the bugs as Sycamore Seed Bugs after being overrun with sycamore seed balls this year. Have never had so many seed balls. My question is: what is the best way to treat them? I am hosing seed debris off my deck and then going to use a soapy water spray in a lawn sprayer. Any suggestions?
| <Respond> | To manage Sycamore Seed Bugs, your approach of using soapy water is a good start, as it can help reduce their numbers by suffocating them. Ensure that the soap solution is well-mixed, typically using a few tablespoons of dish soap per gallon of water. Spray this solution directly onto the bugs. Additionally, maintaining cleanliness by removing seed balls and debris can help reduce their habitat. If the infestation persists, consider using insecticidal soap or contacting a pest control professional for more targeted treatments. Regular monitoring and cleaning will be key in managing these bugs effectively. | 1 | [
"bug identification: Sycamore Seed Bugs",
"current issue: Overrun with sycamore seed balls",
"current actions: Hosing seed debris off the deck and planning to use a soapy water spray"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#832365 | user: Hi, I am hoping you can help me identify the plant in the 2 attached pictures. It always grows in a certain part of my lawn which has a lot of sun. It seldom grows more than a couple of inches in height. I've not been able to find it in any of my plant books. Regards, Reese
| <Clarify> | Could you provide a detailed description of the leaves, such as their shape, texture, and arrangement? Additionally, are there any distinctive features visible in the images that might help with identification? | 1 | [
"location: lawn with a lot of sun, between sidewalk seams",
"height: seldom grows more than a couple of inches",
"flower: small yellow flowers (not yet bloomed)"
] | [
"detailed description of leaves",
"any distinctive features visible in the images",
"confirmation of any other environmental conditions"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#825361 | user: I have a home on a 1/4 acre lot in Kent County. I believe we have Roughstalk Bluegrass in our lawn. Our lawn service guy has been out to visit and confirms this. He says he can develop a plan to treat this weed, but it will eventually come back. It occupies about 10-20% of the lawn, but is found throughout the entire lawn..He described this weed as “the stage 4 cancer of lawns and golf courses”.
Can you provide any guidance, or a plan, on how to eradicate and the long term prognosis? And is there somebody who could come to our house to discuss?
| <Respond> | Roughstalk Bluegrass (Poa trivialis) is indeed a challenging weed to manage due to its aggressive growth and ability to thrive in cool, moist conditions. Here are some steps you can take to manage and potentially eradicate it:
1. **Cultural Practices**: Improve drainage and reduce shade in the affected areas, as Roughstalk Bluegrass thrives in moist, shaded environments. Regularly aerate the soil to improve air circulation and water penetration.
2. **Chemical Control**: There are selective herbicides available that can target Roughstalk Bluegrass without harming desirable turfgrass. Consult with your lawn service provider about using a product containing active ingredients like mesotrione or ethofumesate, which are known to be effective.
3. **Reseeding**: After treatment, overseed the area with a more competitive grass species to prevent the Roughstalk Bluegrass from re-establishing.
4. **Long-term Management**: Regular monitoring and maintenance are crucial. Even after initial eradication, Roughstalk Bluegrass can return, especially if conditions remain favorable for its growth.
Regarding professional consultation, you might want to contact a local extension office or a certified turfgrass specialist who can provide a more tailored plan and possibly visit your property for a detailed assessment.
The prognosis for complete eradication can be challenging, but with persistent effort and proper management, you can significantly reduce its presence and impact on your lawn. | 1 | [
"location: 1/4 acre lot in Kent County",
"weed: Roughstalk Bluegrass",
"affected area: 10-20% of the lawn, mainly where sod was placed after regrading",
"history: No previous issues in 35 years, likely introduced with new sod",
"current action: Lawn service has been consulted"
] | [] | |||
#884791 | user: Hi! I am a garden designer in Denver and have a client with a unique problem. We have been planting and adding to their garden for a few years now and have noticed plants declining and dying without explanation. I have done a soil analysis through the extension and all conditions seem to be excellent for planting. However, we discovered that most areas of the garden are riddled with hundreds of worms, which very much look like invasive Asian Jumping worms. The first 2 inches of soil are nothing but worm castings. I have attached a picture here for ID. Thanks for any help.
| <Respond> | Asian Jumping worms can indeed be a significant problem due to their ability to rapidly alter soil structure and nutrient cycling. Here are some steps you can take to manage and prevent their spread:
1. **Physical Removal**: Regularly check the garden and manually remove any worms you find. Dispose of them in a sealed bag in the trash.
2. **Reduce Spread**: Avoid moving soil, mulch, or plants from the infested area to other parts of the garden or to other properties.
3. **Heat Treatment**: If feasible, solarize the soil by covering it with clear plastic during the hottest months to raise the soil temperature and kill the worms and their cocoons.
4. **Barriers**: Consider installing physical barriers around the garden to prevent the worms from moving to new areas.
5. **Educate Neighbors**: Inform your neighbors about the issue so they can take preventive measures as well.
6. **Monitor and Report**: Keep monitoring the garden and report any new findings to local extension services to help track the spread of these worms.
By taking these steps, you can help manage the current infestation and reduce the risk of spreading these invasive worms to other areas. | 1 | [
"location: Denver, Colorado",
"problem: Invasive Asian Jumping worms infestation",
"concern: Potential spread to neighboring properties and larger environmental impacts",
"soil condition: First 2 inches of soil are mostly worm castings"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#840115 | user: Good afternoon. A few days ago I found a few leaves on a dahlia I have, covered in ants. I also noticed a bit of stem damage. When I turned the leaf over I saw some small insects that appear to have stripes. I looked up "common dahlia pests" but I could not find anything that looked like this bug. It was only on the leaves of a few stems so I just cut them off and haven't seen any evidence of any spread. I can't figure out what the insect is though.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the insect, such as its size, color, and behavior? Additionally, if you have any images of the insect, that would be very helpful. Also, could you let me know your location or region, as this can help in identifying the pest? | 1 | [
"plant: dahlia",
"symptoms: leaves covered in ants, stem damage, small striped insects on leaves",
"action taken: cut off affected stems",
"no evidence of spread: True"
] | [
"description of the insect (size, color, behavior)",
"images of the insect",
"location or region of the garden",
"any other plants affected"
] | |||
#830650 | user: I saw these light purple tubular flowers near Benton Hall and wondered where they came from. Then I looked up today, and noticed they came off a tree! I tried checking the tree for a label, but couldn’t find one. So I collected a flower off the ground and photographed it. What kind of tree is this?
| <Respond> | Based on the information you provided and the label you found, the tree with light purple tubular flowers near Benton Hall is identified as a 'Princess/Empress Tree' (Paulownia tomentosa). This tree is known for its fast growth and large, heart-shaped leaves. It is often planted for its ornamental value due to its beautiful flowers. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask! | 1 | [
"flower color: light purple",
"flower shape: tubular",
"location: near Benton Hall",
"tree identification: Princess/Empress Tree"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#879105 | user: Hello experts, this is a magnolia tree. I found white spots on the branches, some branches are black, and sometimes I can see some flying insects on the tree. Some liquid will fall from the tree to the ground. What kind of pests and diseases may have occurred? How to deal with it? What kind of medicine should be sprayed?
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the appearance of the white spots and the black branches? Additionally, do you know what type of flying insects are present, or can you describe them? This information, along with any previous treatments you've tried, will help in diagnosing the issue more accurately. | 1 | [
"tree_type: magnolia",
"symptoms: white spots on branches, black branches, flying insects, liquid falling from the tree",
"images_provided: True"
] | [
"specific details from images",
"location or climate conditions",
"any previous treatments applied"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#884678 | user: I live in SW Loveland (near Lon Hagler) and have never seen a bird like the one in the picture attached. I have flickers that come to my back yard and thought this was one but it's about half the size of the flickers. Thank you for your help.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide a description of the bird's physical characteristics, such as its color, markings, or any distinctive features? Additionally, any observed behaviors or the time of year you noticed the bird would be helpful. | 1 | [
"location: SW Loveland (near Lon Hagler)",
"comparison: The bird is about half the size of flickers."
] | [
"Description of the bird's physical characteristics (color, markings, etc.)",
"Behavioral traits observed",
"Time of year or season when the bird was observed"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#883375 | user: I have a Baby Blue Eyes Spruce tree in my Colorado Springs yard. It was planted in Spring 2018 and has been growing well. It is on a sprinkler emitter and is watered 3 days per week for two 20 minute cycles each watering day. Over the past two weeks, I noticed some brown branches at the top of the tree. The trunk is not weeping and I do not see any bore holes in the trunk. I watered the tree two evenings this week in addition to its regular watering cycle thinking it may be dry. The green needles do fall if I pull the branch gently. I have attached photos. Do I need to increase watering or is there another problem? Thanks, Harper Recent RAM graduate!
expert: Hi, Harper, The curling of the twigs at the top into "shepherd's crooks" suggest that this is almost certainly the work of white pine weevils; insects that attack the tops (and only the tops) of blue spruces in our area. The injury occurs in the spring, as the tree is growing and when the branches are flexible enough still to curl as they die. Thankfully, there's little risk to the health of the tree over all and it will be able to establish a new leader (possibly with a little training/pruning help from you. If more than one new leader develops, choose your favorite and remove the others so that you will have only one trunk in the tree). Insecticides applied in spring are one way to protect your tree from being re-injured in the future. For details, please see this CSU Fact Sheet: https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/white-pine-weevil-5-606/ I hope this is helpful! Cordially, John
user: Thank you very much for the quick response. On Aug 29, 2024, at 8:41 AM, Ask Extension wrote:
| <Respond> | Hi, Harper, White pine weevils are known to specifically target coniferous trees like spruces and pines, and they do not typically attack shrubs like Diablo Ninebark. The bare branches on your Ninebark could be due to other factors such as environmental stress, disease, or pest issues specific to deciduous shrubs. I recommend checking for signs of powdery mildew, aphids, or other common pests and diseases that affect Ninebark. Additionally, ensure that the shrubs are receiving adequate water and are not experiencing root stress. If the problem persists, you might consider consulting a local extension office for a more detailed diagnosis. Best regards, John | 3 | [
"location: Colorado Springs",
"affected plant: Diablo Ninebark",
"proximity to affected spruce: 10-12 feet",
"symptoms: bare branches",
"comparison to previous year: did not look bare last year"
] | [] | |||
#835192 | user: Hi! Can you please help me identify this shrub? It’s prolific flowers were covered in happy bees. Thank you!
expert: This is a crab apple. This shrub variety is called southern crab apple. Malus angustifolia.
user: Hi, Dakota,This bushy shrub has diminutive flowers that are just under 1 cm across. The waxy, deep green leaves are 3-4 cm long. So I don’t think it is a crabapple (Malus angustifolia). With this additional information, would you be able to identify it?Thank you,ShannonOn Mon, Jun 12, 2023 at 8:44 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
expert: Yes. Looks like Prince's luculia a species of Luculia. It is also known as Luculia pinceana.
user: Hi, Dakota,Thank you for continuing to search for the identity of this plant. It was great to meet you and Mugsy in the office yesterday. Please let me know if you find the name of this plant. I’ve now seen it multiple places across town, mainly in commercial locations. Kindly,ShannonPS. I have another mystery plant to send you, this time a small tree. I’ll submit the request through the site. Thanks!On Tue, Jun 13, 2023 at 9:05 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | It seems that the identification of the shrub as Prince's luculia (Luculia pinceana) is correct, as you have confirmed it matches the plant you have seen. If you have any more questions or need further assistance with other plants, feel free to reach out! | 5 | [
"flower size: just under 1 cm across",
"leaf description: waxy, deep green leaves, 3-4 cm long",
"previous identification: Prince's luculia (Luculia pinceana)"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#833157 | user: What might be the problem with a 1 year old fig tree that was planted in the ground about a week ago. Once planted in the ground the leaves started to turn white, see picture fig tree2, and then 3 days later brown, see picture fig tree1. There is no visible insect infestation and the tree has been sprayed with Neem oil. This time of year the tree is in direct sun from 10:00am to 3:00pm.
Any suggestions as to what this is and what I can do to save the tree?
| <Respond> | It seems like your fig tree is experiencing sunburn due to sudden exposure to direct sunlight after being in low-light conditions for an extended period. This is a common issue when plants are moved from a shaded or indoor environment to direct sunlight without gradual acclimatization. To help your fig tree recover, you can try the following steps:
1. **Provide Shade:** Temporarily provide some shade to the tree during the hottest part of the day, especially between 10:00am and 3:00pm. You can use a shade cloth or place the tree in a location with dappled sunlight.
2. **Gradual Acclimatization:** Gradually increase the tree's exposure to direct sunlight over a period of weeks. Start with a few hours of morning sun and slowly increase the duration.
3. **Watering:** Ensure the tree is adequately watered, but avoid overwatering. The soil should be moist but not waterlogged.
4. **Monitor and Adjust:** Keep an eye on the tree's condition. If the leaves continue to deteriorate, consider consulting a local extension service or a professional arborist for further advice.
With proper care and gradual acclimatization, your fig tree should be able to recover and adapt to its new environment. | 1 | [
"tree_age: 1 year",
"time_since_planting: 1 week",
"leaf discoloration: white then brown",
"insect infestation: none visible",
"treatment: Neem oil",
"sun exposure: direct sun from 10:00am to 3:00pm",
"wintering conditions: completely dark area, lost all leaves",
"spring conditions: north facing, no direct sunlight",
"recent conditions: under a deck, no direct sunlight"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#827084 | user: Hi, a nursery planted two Schip Laurels about 3weeks ago, with good amended soil and fertilizer ( bumper crop) on the west-southwest side of my house. The location gets three to four hours of direct afternoon sun daily. One laurel shows no problem but the other (4 feet away) has yellow-tipped leaves which seem to be very slowly spreading to more leaves. I was advised by the nursery where i purchased them to water them for 15 minutes with a hose at just a trickle, every 5 days until October which i have been doing. Is the yellowing leaf tips a sign of more problems to come? What do you advise? Thank you.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more information about the soil drainage conditions and whether there have been any recent changes in weather? Additionally, have you noticed any signs of pests or diseases on the affected plant? | 1 | [
"plant type: Schip Laurel",
"planting time: 3 weeks ago",
"soil condition: amended soil with fertilizer",
"watering schedule: 15 minutes with a hose at a trickle every 5 days",
"sun exposure: 3-4 hours of direct afternoon sun",
"symptom: yellow-tipped leaves on one plant"
] | [
"soil drainage conditions",
"any recent weather changes",
"presence of pests or diseases",
"comparison of soil conditions between the two plants"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#889841 | user: My husband asked me about this tree today. I hadn't a clue, but I knew who might. So - can you help me know what's going on with this tree? I saw one in much the same condition in our neighbor's yard today.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the tree's condition, such as any visible symptoms, the type of tree, and the location or climate? A photo would also be helpful if possible. | 1 | [
"user: seeking help to understand what's going on with a tree",
"neighbor's tree: in similar condition"
] | [
"description of the tree's condition",
"type of tree",
"location and climate",
"any visible symptoms or changes",
"time of year when symptoms appeared"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#841229 | user: About 3 weeks ago, I noticed that this flattening, thickening and compaction of the inflorescences. Other plants seem unaffected.
expert: Hi, Harper plants on occasion produce abnormal growth and if you look for example online you can find similar examples of what we call fasciation, often seen on one or more stems. Liatris frequently does this, The stem elongates and flattens or contorts itself. One example you may be familiar with is the Fantail Willow. Fasciation can also occur on flower heads, fruit or roots. The cause varies: genetic abnormality, an infection from a virus, bacteria or fungus or something in the environment. Other than pruning out the offending part, there isn't any corrective treatment.
user: Thanks very much for your prompt response. Do you recommend that I prune the affected parts for plant health or ecological reasons? I’m not really concerned about the esthetics. Thanks again, Wendy
| <Respond> | Pruning the affected parts of the plant can be beneficial for a couple of reasons. From a plant health perspective, removing fasciated parts can prevent any potential spread of pathogens if the fasciation is caused by an infection. It also helps the plant redirect its energy to healthier growth. Ecologically, pruning can prevent the affected parts from potentially affecting nearby plants if the cause is environmental or infectious. Since you're not concerned about aesthetics, focusing on these health and ecological benefits makes sense. Just ensure you use clean, sterilized tools to avoid introducing any new pathogens. | 3 | [
"user_concern: Plant health or ecological reasons, not aesthetics",
"plant_issue: Fasciation affecting inflorescences",
"user_action: Considering pruning"
] | [] | |||
#882737 | user: Our service Berry tree has lost branches and leaves. There are splotches on the bark. Photos attached.
We live in downtown Silver Spring.
| <Clarify> | Can you describe the splotches on the bark in more detail? Are there any signs of pests or disease, and have there been any recent changes in the environment or care routine for the tree? | 1 | [
"location: downtown Silver Spring",
"symptoms: lost branches and leaves, splotches on the bark",
"possible cause: insufficient watering during summer"
] | [
"details about the splotches (color, texture)",
"any signs of pests or disease",
"current soil moisture level",
"any recent changes in the environment or care routine"
] | |||
#834742 | user: We saw this wildflower blooming on the Clear Creek trail west of Golden and I can't seem to identify it. Thanks for your help.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide a description of the wildflower's characteristics, such as its color, size, and leaf shape? Additionally, when did you observe it blooming? | 1 | [
"location: Clear Creek trail west of Golden",
"images: #834742_0.jpg, #834742_1.jpg"
] | [
"description of the flower's characteristics (e.g., color, size, leaf shape)",
"time of year when the flower was observed"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#884969 | user: Would like to know if this is Fern Scale. Found on a hard to reach/inspect ferns that have not had attention for long time.
expert: Hi, Reese does look like a Pinnaspis species. It is difficult to tell which species it is though with out a microscope but it wouldn't matter for treatment. Is it on an indoor plant or outdoor plant? DO you know the species of plant? It looks like they have a wide host range on mostly tropical ferns but can infest Liriope and some tropical edibles like citrus and figs, or hitch a ride on them from warmer climates if it was planted recently. You can visit our management techniques under Fern scale for houseplants (linked above). Try scraping them off first and if they seem to return you can try a horticultural oil, insecticidal soap just make sure to read the label and if it is for indoor/outdoor plants. Here is some further info from North Carolina State Extensionhttps://content.ces.ncsu.edu/fern-scale-insect Emily
user: Thanks it is mostly on Nephrolepsis and a dryopteris in another area. Nan
| <Respond> | Based on the images and the information provided, it does appear to be a type of fern scale, likely a Pinnaspis species. While precise identification to the species level would require microscopic examination, the treatment approach remains the same. You can follow the management techniques I mentioned earlier, such as scraping them off and using horticultural oil or insecticidal soap, ensuring the product is suitable for your plant's environment. If you have any further questions or need more detailed guidance, feel free to ask! | 3 | [
"plant_species: Nephrolepis, Dryopteris",
"suspected_pest: Fern Scale",
"images_provided: True"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#875670 | user: Told this is ‘banyard grass’ and to rip entire lawn out and reseed. To drastic of an answer for me - any suggestions for eliminating?
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the size of the affected area and any current lawn care practices you are following? Additionally, do you know the type of grass you have, and have you tried any treatments so far? Are you open to using chemical solutions, or do you prefer organic methods? | 1 | [
"current issue: Presence of barnyard grass in the lawn",
"user's preference: Avoid removing the entire lawn"
] | [
"Size of the affected area",
"Current lawn care practices",
"Type of grass in the lawn",
"Any previous treatments attempted",
"User's tolerance for chemical vs. organic solutions"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#877899 | user: We live in Howard County and are just now cleaning up our blueberry and vegetable garden from last summer. We have several of these tall, skinny weeds with tropical looking foliage and thick stalks. We have lived here 20 years and never seen anything similar. Would you please tell me what it is? Thank you..
| <Clarify> | Could you please describe any additional characteristics of the weeds, such as flower color, seed pods, or scent? This information, along with the images, will help in identifying the plant. | 1 | [
"location: Howard County",
"description: tall, skinny weeds with tropical-looking foliage and thick stalks",
"user's experience: lived in the area for 20 years and never seen these weeds before",
"images: Attached images #877899_0.jpg and #877899_1.jpg"
] | [
"Specific details from the images",
"Any additional characteristics such as flower color, seed pods, or scent"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#837469 | user: Why do my plants die after one to two weeks in this planter? It drains properly and I have changed the soil twice.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about how often and how much you water the plants, the amount of sunlight the window box receives, and whether you use any fertilizers? Additionally, have you noticed any signs of pests or diseases on the plants? | 1 | [
"planter type: window box made by Walpole, possibly artificial wood",
"drainage: drains properly",
"soil: changed twice",
"liner: made a liner",
"plants: healthy flowers like Pansies and Begonias"
] | [
"watering frequency and amount",
"sunlight exposure",
"fertilizer use",
"local climate conditions",
"pest or disease presence"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#835121 | user: Some of the cauliflower are leaning to one side - I can't detect any damage to the stem and the leaves are not limp, but there are more and more that look like they've just been to the pub and had a little too much to drink. Then some of the cabbages have turned one or more leaf over as if waving to a friend. No leaves are limp, plants look healthy but leaning and turning leaves over are worrying, not normal. A grower friend suggested magnesium deficiency so we just sprayed with an epsom salt solution.
| <Respond> | It sounds like your friend was correct in suspecting a magnesium deficiency, as the Epsom salt solution (which provides magnesium) resolved the issue. Magnesium is an essential nutrient for plants, and deficiencies can lead to symptoms like leaf curling or unusual growth patterns. It's great to hear that the treatment was effective. For future reference, maintaining balanced soil nutrients and monitoring for any signs of deficiency can help prevent similar issues. If you notice any other unusual symptoms, feel free to reach out for further advice. | 1 | [
"symptoms: Cauliflower leaning, cabbage leaves turning over, no limp leaves, plants appear healthy.",
"suspected cause: Magnesium deficiency",
"solution tried: Sprayed with an Epsom salt solution",
"outcome: Problem resolved after treatment"
] | [] | |||
#873774 | user: A bunch of the fireweed in my yard has bunching on the tops this year. Seems like something is living in there? Wondering what it might be.
| <Respond> | Based on your description and the presence of silk and tiny black residue, it is likely that your fireweed was infested by a type of caterpillar or larva, possibly from a moth or butterfly. These insects often create silk to form protective shelters or feeding areas, and the black residue could be frass, which is insect excrement. The bunching at the tops of the plants is a common sign of insect activity, as they may have been feeding on the new growth. To prevent future infestations, you might consider monitoring your plants regularly for signs of insect activity and using appropriate pest control methods if necessary. | 1 | [
"symptoms: Bunching on the tops of fireweed, presence of silk, and tiny black residue.",
"current status: Whatever was living in the fireweed has emerged."
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#873841 | user: Hi I have an ongoing problem with what I believe is a Fungal Disease named Microdochium Nivale. This was first notice about 3 years ago and seems to get worse each year as soon as the weather warms. Additional water does not help and have tried insecticides as well. I live in Bend Oregon and need advise on what this is and how to treat it with chemicals.
Thank you, Emerson <personal data hidden>
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details on the current condition of your lawn and any treatments you have tried so far? This will help in confirming the specific disease and recommending the most effective fungicide. | 1 | [
"location: Bend, Oregon",
"symptoms: Problem worsens as weather warms, additional water and insecticides do not help",
"possible diseases: Microdochium Nivale, Anthracnose, Necrotic Ring, Summer Patch"
] | [
"Confirmation of the specific disease affecting the lawn",
"Details on the current condition of the lawn",
"Information on any previous treatments and their outcomes"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#884759 | user: I was surprised to find my dogwood bark covered with a white powdery substance (fungi?) The material is powdery and can be removed with a soft bristle brush. I'm concerned about how this material will affect the health of the tree?
| <Respond> | The white powdery substance on your dogwood tree is likely powdery mildew, a common fungal disease that affects many plants, including dogwoods. It typically appears as a white or gray powdery coating on leaves, stems, and sometimes bark. While it can be unsightly, powdery mildew is usually not fatal to trees, especially mature ones. However, it can cause stress to the plant if left unchecked. To manage it, ensure your tree has good air circulation by pruning any overcrowded branches and avoid overhead watering to reduce humidity around the tree. If the problem persists or worsens, you might consider using a fungicide specifically labeled for powdery mildew. Regular monitoring and maintaining tree health through proper watering and fertilization can also help prevent future outbreaks. | 1 | [
"substance description: White, powdery, removable with a soft bristle brush",
"absence of insects: No bugs associated with the growth",
"user action: Majority of the powdery substance has been brushed off",
"visual evidence: Photos provided"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#833480 | user: We planted three of these Hydrangea in a group and his will be the second full summer they've been in place. Last summer all three wilted everyday. Yesterday, the first 90 degree day of this year, they wilted. They are in full sun and in an enclosed courtyard with walls on three sides. I think I should move them to an area with less sun. Please let me know your thoughts and also please suggest some alternate flowering plants. Are there any plants that will flower in winter?
Thank you
expert: Unfortunately, your photo isn't showing for me (I get a message indicating the file is corrupted), but based on your description, yes, it sounds like your hydrangea is in a location where it gets too much direct sun and reflected heat from the surrounding walls. Bigleaf hydrangeas, including Summer Crush, grow better in part shade in our climate. For other flowering plant recommendations: Can you tell us more about the available space you have? Is there a mature plant size you have in mind, are deer an issue for you, and what is your soil moisture like? If you can provide more information on the site conditions and a photo of the site, that would help us make recommendations for you. Christa
user: I’ve attached three photos. The first shows our front door area. In the second photo you will see I’ve already removed one Hydrangea and replaced it with the yellow Spirea. The third photo shows the Peonne is doing well and the remaining two Hydrangea are on either side of it.Please offer your suggestion of what plant to use to replace the two remaining Hydrangeas. By the way, is it necessary to trim of the new growth at the bottom of the Crepe MyrtleThank youOn Jun 6, 2023, at 8:51 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about your climate zone or region, soil type and moisture levels, and whether deer are a concern? Additionally, do you have a preference for the mature size of the replacement plants or any specific interest in winter-flowering plants? | 3 | [
"current plant location: full sun, enclosed courtyard with walls on three sides",
"current plants: Hydrangeas, Peonne, yellow Spirea",
"user's action: removed one Hydrangea and replaced it with yellow Spirea",
"user's question: suggestions for replacement plants and trimming Crepe Myrtle"
] | [
"specific climate zone or region",
"soil moisture and type",
"deer presence",
"desired mature plant size",
"preference for winter-flowering plants"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#827854 | user: Can you tell me what type of brush this is?
expert: Looks to me like you have a beautiful Viburnum carlesii also known as Korean Spice Viburnum. Nice!
user: Thank you! From: ask=<personal data hidden> <ask=<personal data hidden>> On Behalf Of Ask ExtensionSent: Monday, May 1, 2023 3:23 PMTo: James Kramer <<personal data hidden>>Subject: Re: Bush identification (#0097780)
| <Clarify> | Could you provide a detailed description of the bush's features, such as leaf shape, flower color, and any other distinguishing characteristics? Additionally, any information on its location and growing conditions would be helpful. | 3 | [
"user's initial thought: Korean Spice Viburnum",
"characteristic: wonderful fragrance",
"attached image: #827854_0.jpg"
] | [
"detailed description of the bush's features",
"any notable differences from the known Korean Spice Viburnum",
"location and growing conditions"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#881676 | user: All my bell peppers get a big rotten area on them starting before they turn from green to red. I water them thoroughly once a week and apply Gardentone once every two weeks.
| <Respond> | The symptoms you're describing are commonly associated with blossom end rot, which is often caused by a calcium deficiency in the fruit. This can be exacerbated by inconsistent watering, even if you are watering thoroughly once a week. It's important to maintain consistent soil moisture. Additionally, the floating row cover can help protect the plants from pests and extreme weather, but it won't directly address the issue of blossom end rot. You might want to check the soil's calcium levels and consider using a calcium supplement. Also, ensure that the soil has good drainage and that the plants are not exposed to prolonged periods of wetness or drought. | 1 | [
"symptom: Bell peppers develop a big rotten area before turning from green to red.",
"watering schedule: Once a week, thoroughly.",
"fertilizer: Gardentone applied every two weeks.",
"recent action: Floating row cover applied."
] | [
"Soil drainage conditions",
"Weather conditions (e.g., humidity, temperature)",
"Presence of pests or diseases",
"Condition of the plant leaves and stems"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#887023 | user: Hi, in the last few days we've had a Nostoc colony pop up on our flat, stone covered roof at our church.
I've read a bit online about the cyanobacteria, but can I get rid of it? If so, how?
| <Respond> | Nostoc is a type of cyanobacteria that can be challenging to remove once it establishes itself. Here are some steps you can take to manage and potentially remove it from your roof:
1. **Physical Removal**: Carefully scrape off the Nostoc using a plastic scraper or a similar tool. Be cautious not to damage the roof surface.
2. **Drying Out**: Nostoc thrives in moist conditions, so improving drainage and reducing moisture on the roof can help. Ensure that water does not pool on the roof and that it dries out quickly after rain.
3. **Chemical Treatment**: There are algaecides and fungicides that can be effective against Nostoc. Look for products containing copper sulfate or potassium salts of fatty acids. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions and consider the environmental impact, especially if the runoff could affect nearby plants or water sources.
4. **Regular Maintenance**: Keep the roof clean and free of debris that can hold moisture. Regularly inspect the roof for any new growth and address it promptly.
If the problem persists or if you're unsure about applying treatments, consider consulting a professional who specializes in roof maintenance or pest control. They can provide more targeted solutions and ensure the safety of the roof and surrounding environment. | 1 | [
"location: flat, stone-covered roof",
"organism: Nostoc colony",
"user's research: User has read a bit online about cyanobacteria."
] | [] | |||
#877798 | user: I bought this apple tree from Menards 2-3 months ago and have been watering it. From the pictures - it does not look too good. Is it dead? If not, what should I do? Thanks! Jeff
expert: Hi, Skyler, Thank you for the pictures. From what I see your tree appears to be dead. I think I saw the problem. It was staked tightly to a rigid pole and the bark was rubbed off. When the bark is removed it exposes the layer under the bark that provides the water and nutrients from the roots to the tree. When that is exposed the tree dies. I could go into apple tree selection planting and pruning but it is more helpful to refer you to https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/hyg-1401 which lays out the process.You can get further assistance at your OSU Extension Office. It is at 831 College Ave #D, Lancaster, Ohio 43130.<personal data hidden> Buy your next apple tree after reading the factsheet. Selection a tree from a local nursery or a mail order company like Stark Bros who specializes in fruit trees and plants offer better sources. I hope I have been helpful and not too chatty. Sincerely, Charlie, Franklin County Master Gardener
user: Mike, Thank you! Jeff McCullough "Wander!" On Thu, Jul 18, 2024 at 9:18 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
expert: You are very welcome Jeff. Sincerely, Charlie, Franklin County Master Gardener
user: Mike, Today I noticed some small growth about 6 inches from the ground on this tree--that was not there when I took the pictures I sent you. Should I cut off the dead top and let the bottom grow? Do something else? Thanks. Jeff McCullough "Wander!" On Thu, Jul 18, 2024 at 9:18 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
expert: Hi, Skyler, I am part of a group of Master Gardeners who started a demonstration fruit garden at our county extension office. One thing I enjoy is watching different fruit plants grow so I say, "let it grow and see what you have". However, most small trees like those you bought are cultivars which means that the tree is a graft on rootstock. Almost all are done on compatible species of rootstock but no guarantees that something growing from the rootstock is the same as the tree that died. All in all there is nothing to loose! Let the bottom grow and let's hope you have a healthy apple tree. It will be fun. Good luck, Mike Heys
user: Mike, Thanks! Should I cut off the top that is dead or just leave it? Jeff McCullough "Wander!" On Wed, Jul 24, 2024 at 3:12 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Hi, Skyler, it's generally a good idea to remove the dead top of the tree. This will help prevent any potential disease from spreading and allow the new growth to receive more resources. Make sure to use clean, sharp pruning tools to make a clean cut just above the new growth. This will give the new shoots the best chance to thrive. Good luck with your tree! Sincerely, Charlie | 7 | [
"tree_condition: Dead top with new growth near the base",
"user_action: Considering whether to cut off the dead top"
] | [] | |||
#823911 | user: We have a laurel hedge that has an area where the leaves are yellowing and have brown spots.
How can we treat it?
expert: Dear, Charlie, Thank you for contacting Ask Extension about your laurel hedge. Can you please send a photo of the entire plant so we can see the pattern of the damage? Also, when did you first notice the damage?
user: We just noticed the yellowing and dark spots the month.
user: We just noticed the yellowing and dark spots this month. It seems to be in just one area of the hedge and at the top of the plant.
| <Respond> | Based on the symptoms you've described and the images provided, it seems like your laurel hedge might be suffering from a fungal infection, such as shot hole disease, which is common in laurels. This can cause yellowing leaves with brown spots. To treat this, you should remove and dispose of any affected leaves to prevent the spread of the fungus. Ensure good air circulation around the plants by pruning any overcrowded branches. Avoid overhead watering to keep the foliage dry, and consider applying a fungicide labeled for use on laurels if the problem persists. It's also a good idea to check the soil drainage, as poor drainage can exacerbate fungal issues. If the problem continues or worsens, consulting a local extension service or a professional arborist might be beneficial. | 4 | [
"symptoms: Yellowing leaves with brown spots",
"location: Top of the plant, in one area of the hedge",
"timeframe: Noticed this month",
"images: Attached"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#825706 | user: With these little black worms..maybe will develope into Moths ?? Will Raid kill them ???
expert: Hello, Riley, Do you have any images of the worms? This will help our expert when suggesting a solution.
user: Tiny black. Too small to see w/camera. Lots of legs like catapillers?? Nest ?of some sort like spiderwebbing. On April 17, 2023, at 8:59 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
expert: Tamara: I cannot ID the pest with out a good picture. I am doing some guessing so I will need some help from you. You stated there was webbing. Are the caterpillars on this webbing? I am sure the caterpillars are small, but a picture may be helpful. Using Raid would ‘NOT’ be a good idea as that pesticide is for different insects. Do you know what kind of tree this is? How long has this pest problem been going on? Thanks for any additional information you can share. Rich
user: On Wed, Apr 19, 2023, 10:25 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
user: On Wed, Apr 19, 2023, 10:25 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
expert: Tamara: This is a good picture of the insect, thanks. You have tent caterpillars. Do you know the name of the tree you have here as it might make a difference in the management/treatment of the pest. I have copied some links that may be of help to you. It’s about the pest not the plant it eats. Alder (Alnus)-Western tent caterpillar | Pacific Northwest Pest Management Handbooks (pnwhandbooks.org) Management-biological control See: Biological Control of Nursery Pests Tent caterpillars have many natural enemies. Some birds eat caterpillars, and small mammals consume the pupae. The larvae of a tachinid fly parasitizes the caterpillars. Management- cultural control Overwintering egg masses can be removed and destroyed when practical. Management-chemical control Dormant-season spray oil spray Apply with enough water to cover the entire tree thoroughly. Apply in delayed-dormant period to destroy overwintering egg masses. Let me know if you have additional questions. Rich
user: Thank you for your help! We thi nk it's a Douglas..Huge..grown to amazing size in 14 yrs..trunk now about 5 ft around.!!On Fri, Apr 21, 2023, 9:06 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Thank you for confirming the type of tree, Tamara. Since you have a Douglas tree and the pest is tent caterpillars, you can follow the management strategies I previously mentioned. For biological control, encourage natural predators like birds and small mammals. For cultural control, remove and destroy any overwintering egg masses you find. If you choose chemical control, consider using a dormant-season oil spray during the delayed-dormant period to target overwintering egg masses. Ensure thorough coverage of the tree. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask. | 8 | [
"pest: tent caterpillars",
"tree: Douglas",
"tree size: huge, grown to amazing size in 14 years, trunk about 5 ft around"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#827756 | user: Hello, Charlie is a plant common in our area (mid-Columbia River Gorge) shown in the attached pictures. They seem to prefer to grow in loose soils. In certain areas (like around my backyard) they can grow uncontrolled and can blanket an area. They're vine-like and will cover other plants, killing them off. Then these weeds die during winter leaving the area bare of other plants. Late spring they come back to blanket the area again. These weeds essentially create a dead zone in areas they dominate.
Do you know what this plant is and how to mitigate it? Thanks.
| <Clarify> | Could you describe the visual characteristics of the plant from the images, such as leaf shape, flower color, or any distinctive features? This will help in identifying the plant accurately. | 1 | [
"location: mid-Columbia River Gorge",
"growth pattern: vine-like, covers other plants, dies in winter, regrows in late spring",
"soil preference: loose soils",
"impact: kills other plants, creates a dead zone"
] | [
"visual characteristics of the plant from the images"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#878084 | user: My young (7 years?) red buckeye has had red flowers in past years. This year I’ve been waiting for it to bloom and thought I’d just missed it but maybe the long things that looked like stems of white buds were the spent red blooms about to become seed heads (because I certainly was not looking for a late-July white flower). Suddenly on return from vacation I find white inflorescences. What happened? How did it go from red flowers in past years to these white flowers this year? Thank you for any help.
| <Respond> | It sounds like you've done a thorough investigation and have likely identified the cause of the change in flower color. If the red buckeye was grafted onto a rootstock that produces white flowers, and the original red-flowering portion was removed or damaged, the rootstock could have taken over, resulting in the white flowers you see now. This is a common occurrence when the grafted portion is lost, and the rootstock is allowed to grow. Since you are considering removing the current tree, ensure that any new planting is protected from potential damage, and consider marking it clearly to avoid accidental removal in the future. If you wish to have a red buckeye again, you might want to purchase a new tree and ensure it is planted in a location where it can be easily monitored and protected. Thank you for sharing your detailed observations, and I hope this helps with your decision-making process. | 1 | [
"tree type: red buckeye",
"previous flower color: red",
"current flower color: white",
"possible cause: graft issue or tree removal",
"user's action: considering removal of the current tree"
] | [] | |||
#873224 | user: What is wrong with these Annabelle Hydrangeas? They have been thriving in this spot over the past 13 years. I don’t do anything special to them except cut them down in the spring.
expert: This looks like Hydrangea Chlorotic Mottle Virus but that virus only affects Hydrangea macrophylla , which your Annabelle are not. So I am stumped. I reassigned this question to someone more knowledgeable in hydrangeas.
user: I also want to know how to treat them. Thank you.
expert: Hi, Dakota, I'm not certain what's going on here. It looks like some kind of virus, which can be spread by insects and contaminated tools. Do you have any other plants that are affected, or is just these hydrangeas? I'd consider that the most likely explanation. Viruses cannot be treated. Here's a page on the possibilities: https://www.purduelandscapereport.org/article/viruses-of-hydrangea/ https://www.gardenia.net/disease/mosaic-viruses I am going to send a photo to a specialist and get back to you. Thanks.
user: I’m sending a picture of the Limelight hydrangea that’s next to the Annabelles which I think is showing the same signs. The other picture is of the bird feeding station above the hydrangeas. The hanging baskets have lemon sedum in them. This is the first year for lemon sedum. In past years I have always had moss roses in the hanging baskets. I also sprinkle Preen under the bird feeders which I’ve been doing in the past too. I hope this extra info might help. Thank you.
expert: Hi, Dakota, I consulted with a master gardener who works at the University of Minnesota Plant Disease Clinic, sending her your photos. While the cause cannot be absolutely determined without tests, she’s pretty sure this is hydrangea chlorotic mottle virus. She showed it to one of the experts in the lab and he agreed. This virus is spread by insects and can’t be treated. If the plants are left in place insects may keep spreading the virus to uninfected hydrangeas. Here’s part of her email: “Bringing a few small cuttings of symptomatic leaves and stems to the PDC could do ELISA @ $110. Electron microscopy (TEM) to actually see the virus would cost $300.HCMV Is insect transmitted so the shrubs pose a threat to other HTDRANGEAS. They are all susceptible but macrophylla is the most. When positive for virus, the plants should be removed and destroyed. Not composted. For the cost of testing.....new shrubs could be purchased.” Sorry for the bad news. The best thing to do would be to remove the plants and burn them. If you choose to test the plants, here’s the clinic website: https://pdc.umn.edu/ Good luck.
user: Thank you for your expertise. I’m wondering if this virus would infect/affect other plants in my yard. I hope not! What about the soil; is it infected too? If I remove the infected hydrangeas and plant new hydrangeas, will they survive?
| <Respond> | The hydrangea chlorotic mottle virus is specific to hydrangeas and does not typically infect other types of plants. The virus is spread by insects, so the soil itself is not infected. However, if you plant new hydrangeas in the same area, they could become infected if the virus-carrying insects are still present. To minimize risk, consider planting non-hydrangea species. For a similar height, you might consider planting shrubs like Viburnum, Weigela, or Clethra, which are not susceptible to this virus. Ensure to monitor for insect activity and manage it to protect any new plantings. | 7 | [
"virus identification: hydrangea chlorotic mottle virus",
"transmission: spread by insects",
"current affected plants: Annabelle and Limelight hydrangeas",
"user's concern: potential infection of other plants and soil",
"replacement plant criteria: similar in height to hydrangeas"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#885948 | user: I live in Leander Texas and need to plant a tree that doesn’t grow over about 20’ tall and has a wide umbrella to use for shade ove bay window in dining room that faces east. Am looking for one that is not fruit bearing or messy as it’s close to house. Also have a sidewalk I don’t want roots to interfere with between tree and house. We are removing ash tree in picture. Can you suggest a few good trees for my situation? Thank you for any help! Our soil is rocky cliche. Libby
| <Respond> | Based on your requirements and the conditions in Leander, Texas, I would recommend considering the following trees:
1. **Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)**: This tree is known for its beautiful flowers and can be pruned to maintain a height of around 20 feet. It has a moderate growth rate and non-invasive roots, making it suitable for planting near sidewalks and houses.
2. **Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis)**: This tree is native to Texas and thrives in rocky, well-drained soils. It has a wide canopy, is drought-tolerant, and can be maintained at a height of around 20 feet.
3. **Texas Redbud (Cercis canadensis var. texensis)**: This tree is well-suited for the Texas climate, has a beautiful spring bloom, and can be kept at a manageable height. It also has a wide canopy and non-invasive roots.
These trees should meet your requirements for shade, height, and minimal mess, while also being suitable for the local soil and climate conditions. Make sure to consider the specific placement and spacing to ensure the roots do not interfere with your sidewalk. | 1 | [
"location: Leander, Texas",
"tree height requirement: does not grow over 20 feet tall",
"tree canopy requirement: wide umbrella for shade",
"fruit/messiness requirement: not fruit-bearing or messy",
"root requirement: non-invasive roots",
"soil type: rocky clay",
"proximity to house and sidewalk: close to house, near sidewalk"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#879030 | user: What is wrong with pine tree if all needles become limp an droop? Too much water? Too little? Disease?
| <Respond> | Based on the information provided, it seems like the combination of heat waves and heavy rains could have stressed the trees, especially given their dense growth and close planting. The symptoms of limp and drooping needles can be due to several factors, including water stress (either too much or too little), root issues, or even fungal diseases. Since the soil is sandy and not compacted or overly wet, overwatering is less likely, but it's still important to ensure the soil is not waterlogged after heavy rains. The dense growth from being nursery trees might limit air circulation, which can exacerbate stress during heat waves. Pruning the lower branches could indeed help improve air circulation and reduce humidity around the base, potentially reducing the risk of fungal diseases. Additionally, ensure that the spray heads are not overwatering the trees, especially during periods of heavy rain. Monitoring the soil moisture and adjusting watering accordingly is crucial. If the problem persists, consider consulting a local arborist who can inspect the trees in person and provide a more tailored solution. | 1 | [
"tree age: 15 months since planting",
"watering method: dedicated line of spray heads",
"recent weather: heat waves and heavy rains",
"soil type: sandy",
"soil pH: within limits",
"tree spacing: planted in pairs, too close together",
"soil condition: neither compacted nor wet",
"tree type: nursery trees, dense growth",
"user's watering schedule: based on rainfall, not fixed"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#866786 | user: I am the lead volunteer gardener at the Mitchell Park Community Herb and pollinator garden. I planted garlic chives about 6 years ago. They have spread and done well but last year and again now a section dies off. It can't be from overwatering as we've just started watering. Its only this one section of the garden. I'm thinking of digging up that section, adding leafgro, and replanting some garlic chives there. What's your opinion about what's going on?
expert: Hi, Jordan, This is puzzling because garlic chives are fairly resistant as a plant, except black aphids, which tend to cause die-back in the fall, and overwatering, which your group has avoided. Will research and get back to you. Meanwhile, I would suggest considering a new site for garlic chives, somewhat away from this spot, as far removed as can be managed, preferably sourcing plants from another garden with robust garlic chives.
user: Thanks for your suggestions. I'll await hearing more from you. AmyOn Thu, May 2, 2024, 3:58 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
expert: Hi, Jordan, Fllowing up on your question! Could use some additional information to narrow it down. Is there any evidence of aphids or thrips, which are super tiny, on any of the plants, or the soil around them? A magnifying glass might be useful . Is there any discoloration or other sign of disease on the leaves and stems? Could these plants have been accidentally over-sprayed from an adjoining garden? Or sprayed to address black soot (that can result from aphid activity)? Please let us know if you find any indicators. Meanwhile, black aphids are a common problem with onion family plants and they multiply rapidly, so here are some tips on aphids from our archives in case that turns out to be the issue, or one of the issues. Many gardens host some aphids. On healthy plants, they don't cause much harm, and beneficial insects, including ladybugs and parasitic wasps, keep them in check. Aphids can become more of a problem when plants are stressed by drought, poor soil conditions, overwintering or overcrowding. Unfortunately, aphids can reproduce at amazing speed and a large colony that can literally suck the life out of your plants. The key to dealing with them is knowing when you need to take action, and then having the right tricks up your sleeve to keep them under control. How to Identify Aphids: Often the first sign of an aphid infestation is twisted and curled leaves, yellowing foliage, stunted or dead shoots, and sluggish plant growth. Damage is usually most noticeable on shoot tips and new growth, along with unopened flower buds. When you take a closer look at these damaged plant parts, particularly on the undersides of young leaves and developing stems, you'll likely find lots of aphids crowded together. Aphids range in color from green to yellow, brown, red, or even black. Aphids cause damage by sucking sap from tender plant parts. As they feast, they excrete a sugary substance called honeydew. A fungus called sooty mold grows on the honeydew and blocks light from your plant, but is otherwise harmless. You can wash your plant leaves with water to get rid of the honeydew and sooty mold. How to Get Rid of Aphids: When an aphid population explodes and begins to cause noticeable damage to leaves, stems, and buds, it's time to act right away. The sooner you can deal with the infestation, the better chance you have of eliminating or controlling the aphids. Spray with Water: The safest and fastest way to control aphids is to spray them off your plants with a strong stream of water from the garden hose. Aphids are easily knocked off plants and once they are knocked off a plant, they rarely climb back on. Crush Aphids with your fingers: If the infestation isn't too heavy, you can squash aphids by gently rubbing your thumb and fingertips over your plants' leaves and stems wherever you see aphids. Check back every few days to see if you need to repeat the procedure. This can be done in conjunction with spraying with water.Insecticidal Soaps and Horticultural Oils: These controls are low-risk to people and the environment and can be applied to food crops. They'll kill aphids, but must be applied on a regular basis during heavy infestations, and also kill the very beneficial insects that can keep aphid polulations in check, so this would be recommended only if the first two were unsuccessful. . How to Prevent Aphids: Preventing large numbers of aphids from making themselves at home is possible. In addition to making sure your plants have the water, light, and nutrients they need, here are a few more ways to help keep aphid numbers down. Remove dead stems and weeds from around the plants. You can cover plants with a barrier to insects (like cheese cloth or row covers). You can also grow certain plants nearby to attract beneficial insects like lady bugs which eat aphids (plants like marigolds,calendula, sunflower, daisy, alyssum, or dill). For more information about aphids and treatment : http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7404.html Please keep us posted on your findings! DC Master Gardener team
expert: Hi, Jordan, Fllowing up on your question! Could use some additional information to narrow it down. Is there any evidence of aphids or thrips, which are super tiny, on any of the plants, or the soil around them? A magnifying glass might be useful . Is there any discoloration or other sign of disease on the leaves and stems? Could these plants have been accidentally over-sprayed from an adjoining garden? Or sprayed to address black soot (that can result from aphid activity)? Please let us know if you find any indicators. Meanwhile, black aphids are a common problem with onion family plants and they multiply rapidly, so here are some tips on aphids from our archives in case that turns out to be the issue, or one of the issues. Many gardens host some aphids. On healthy plants, they don't cause much harm, and beneficial insects, including ladybugs and parasitic wasps, keep them in check. Aphids can become more of a problem when plants are stressed by drought, poor soil conditions, overwintering or overcrowding. Unfortunately, aphids can reproduce at amazing speed and a large colony that can literally suck the life out of your plants. The key to dealing with them is knowing when you need to take action, and then having the right tricks up your sleeve to keep them under control. How to Identify Aphids: Often the first sign of an aphid infestation is twisted and curled leaves, yellowing foliage, stunted or dead shoots, and sluggish plant growth. Damage is usually most noticeable on shoot tips and new growth, along with unopened flower buds. When you take a closer look at these damaged plant parts, particularly on the undersides of young leaves and developing stems, you'll likely find lots of aphids crowded together. Aphids range in color from green to yellow, brown, red, or even black. Aphids cause damage by sucking sap from tender plant parts. As they feast, they excrete a sugary substance called honeydew. A fungus called sooty mold grows on the honeydew and blocks light from your plant, but is otherwise harmless. You can wash your plant leaves with water to get rid of the honeydew and sooty mold. How to Get Rid of Aphids: When an aphid population explodes and begins to cause noticeable damage to leaves, stems, and buds, it's time to act right away. The sooner you can deal with the infestation, the better chance you have of eliminating or controlling the aphids. Spray with Water: The safest and fastest way to control aphids is to spray them off your plants with a strong stream of water from the garden hose. Aphids are easily knocked off plants and once they are knocked off a plant, they rarely climb back on. Crush Aphids with your fingers: If the infestation isn't too heavy, you can squash aphids by gently rubbing your thumb and fingertips over your plants' leaves and stems wherever you see aphids. Check back every few days to see if you need to repeat the procedure. This can be done in conjunction with spraying with water.Insecticidal Soaps and Horticultural Oils: These controls are low-risk to people and the environment and can be applied to food crops. They'll kill aphids, but must be applied on a regular basis during heavy infestations, and also kill the very beneficial insects that can keep aphid polulations in check, so this would be recommended only if the first two were unsuccessful. . How to Prevent Aphids: Preventing large numbers of aphids from making themselves at home is possible. In addition to making sure your plants have the water, light, and nutrients they need, here are a few more ways to help keep aphid numbers down. Remove dead stems and weeds from around the plants. You can cover plants with a barrier to insects (like cheese cloth or row covers). You can also grow certain plants nearby to attract beneficial insects like lady bugs which eat aphids (plants like marigolds,calendula, sunflower, daisy, alyssum, or dill). For more information about aphids and treatment : http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7404.html Please keep us posted on your findings! DC Master Gardener team
user: Yes, you were right! I looked closely and its indeed aphids. I used a strong hose wash will do so again tomorrow, and hopefully that will get rid of them. Thanks for your help!AmyOn Sat, May 4, 2024, 10:25 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Hi, Jordan, it's great to hear that the power washing has reduced the aphid population. You can continue with the water spray for a few more days, as this method is effective and environmentally friendly. However, if you notice that the aphids persist despite the washing, you might consider using Neem oil or insecticidal soap as a next step. These treatments are generally safe for plants and can help manage aphid populations effectively. Apply them according to the product instructions, and ensure you cover the undersides of the leaves where aphids often hide. Keep monitoring the plants closely, and if the problem persists, you might need to repeat the treatment or explore additional options. Let me know how it goes! | 6 | [
"current treatment: power washing for 2 days",
"result: aphids have decreased but are still present",
"considering: spraying with Neem or another oil/soap"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#884504 | user: I have Nimblewill creeping in from surrounding yards. I have been fighting the battle with Tenacity, but new areas just pop up. I have been applying 2-3 treatments 2 weeks apart as directed. Also using a surfactant. Areas that appeared to die off have come pack now at the end of summer, although the had not appeared once I applied as stated above. Is there anything I can do? I am attaching photos. The first 2 photos are current/after several applications in different months of Tenacity. The last photo shows Tenacity’s affect during early application.
Thank you very much in advance. I am in Livonia, if that matters in any way.
user: Adding a few more photos in June and July showing Tenacity application. Thank you.
expert: Hello, Morgan I send this along to our weed expert, to confirm ID, please attach one or two more pictures of the nimblewill plant itself. Take a small section dug up, laid out on a plain background, and photograph it from 8 inches away or so. Spread out the stems and leaves so we can see how they are arranged on the stem. Include a seedhead if possible. It helps to put a coin or something beside it to give a sense of scale. I attached a similar picture of nimblewill as an example of what is needed. Also, if you do not yet have them, here are Purdue’s and MSU’s Turf weed entries for nimblewill. https://www.canr.msu.edu/ipm/diseases/nimblewill?language_id= https://turf.purdue.edu/nimblewill/
user: Thank you for your prompt reply. Please find the attached photos. On Sun, Sep 8, 2024 at 11:32 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
user: Sorry. Sent before I finished attaching. Thank you!On Sun, Sep 8, 2024 at 11:32 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | To manage and prevent the spread of nimblewill, consider the following strategies:
1. **Cultural Practices**: Maintain a healthy, dense lawn by mowing at the recommended height for your grass type, watering deeply but infrequently, and fertilizing appropriately. A healthy lawn can outcompete nimblewill and other weeds.
2. **Physical Barriers**: While fencing is not an option, you might consider creating a physical barrier using a deep edging material that can help prevent the rhizomes from spreading into your yard.
3. **Regular Monitoring**: Keep a close eye on the perimeter of your yard for any new nimblewill growth. Early detection and treatment can prevent larger infestations.
4. **Chemical Control**: Continue using Tenacity as per the label instructions, but also consider rotating with other herbicides that are effective against nimblewill to prevent resistance. Consult with a local extension office for recommendations on alternative herbicides.
5. **Community Approach**: Engage with your neighbors to manage nimblewill collectively. Sharing information and coordinating control efforts can be more effective than individual efforts.
By combining these strategies, you can reduce the likelihood of nimblewill spreading into your yard from neighboring properties. | 5 | [
"location: Livonia",
"current treatment: Tenacity with surfactant, 2-3 treatments 2 weeks apart",
"issue: Nimblewill creeping in from surrounding yards",
"concern: Continuous infiltration from neighbors",
"restriction: Fencing is prohibited by city code"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#888804 | user: Our Crimson Queen Japanese Maples have been on a timer drip system for several months. The watering time has been 3 1/2 hours every day but the moisture meter shows they are dry. We have a very good moisture meter that is extra long for deep measurements. The plants are in large containers, we have not planted them yet as we are waiting to design our Japanese garden. They are not root bound. They are situated on the east side of our pole barn. It's blocked to the west by the pole barn and the east by big trees so as to protect them from the winds. They get late morning to early afternoon sun. In the last several months they have started losing leaves and looking poorly. See photos below. Could you please let me know your thoughts as to how we can save these beautiful (expensive) plants.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more information about the soil type and quality in the containers, as well as any fertilization practices you have been using? Additionally, have there been any recent changes in the local climate or in the care routine for these plants? | 1 | [
"watering schedule: 3 1/2 hours every day on a timer drip system",
"moisture level: moisture meter shows dry",
"container status: large containers, not root bound",
"location: east side of pole barn, protected from winds",
"sun exposure: late morning to early afternoon sun",
"symptoms: losing leaves and looking poorly"
] | [
"soil type and quality",
"drainage conditions",
"fertilization schedule",
"local climate conditions",
"any recent changes in care or environment"
] | |||
#842620 | user: Something happened to my hibiscus this year. I've had it for three years, and the first two were overwhelmingly beautiful growing hundreds of blossoms over those two seasons. This year, nothing happened - the stems and leaves looked healthy, but no buds at all. I read that a potassium deficiency could result in lack of blooming, so I bought some potassium nitrate and gave the plant a healthy watering with the solution. A few weeks later it began to produce some buds, but they are very small and only put out a few very scraggly petals. The entire plant is like this, now with hundreds of non-productive buds that appear, then wither after a few days. I've attached three photos of the plant showing these stunted flowers. I'm hoping you can give me an idea of what is going wrong, and how to remedy the situation. Thanks for your attention!
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the growing conditions of your hibiscus, such as the type of soil it's planted in, the amount of sunlight it receives, your watering routine, and any other fertilizers you might be using? Additionally, have you noticed any signs of pests or diseases? | 1 | [
"Plant type: Hibiscus",
"Age of plant: Three years",
"Previous performance: Hundreds of blossoms in the first two years",
"Current issue: No buds initially, then small buds with scraggly petals that wither",
"Action taken: Applied potassium nitrate solution"
] | [
"Soil type and pH",
"Watering frequency and amount",
"Sunlight exposure",
"Fertilizer use and schedule",
"Pest or disease presence"
] | |||
#874761 | user: Our oak tree, which looked vigorous last year, did not set all its leaves this spring. They did not and are not falling down; just some branches did not leaf out.
| <Respond> | Based on the information provided, there are a few potential reasons why your oak tree might not be leafing out fully. The removal of the old, dead tree could have caused some root disturbance, which might affect the oak's health. Additionally, the proximity to the waterfront could mean the tree is experiencing stress from fluctuating water levels or salt exposure, depending on the type of water body. The discontinuation of fertilizer spikes might also have impacted nutrient availability, although mature trees typically require less frequent fertilization. The fact that the top of the tree is most affected could indicate a problem with water transport within the tree, possibly due to root issues or vascular disease. I recommend having a local arborist assess the tree for any signs of disease or pest infestation and consider soil testing to check for nutrient deficiencies. They can also evaluate whether the tree might benefit from a targeted fertilization program or other interventions. | 1 | [
"tree type: oak",
"location: near waterfront",
"previous condition: vigorous last year",
"current issue: some branches did not leaf out, especially at the top",
"fertilizer use: used fertilizer spikes in the past, discontinued a couple years ago",
"recent changes: old, dead tree removed from growing into it"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#824435 | user: Hi, we have a row of 15 skip laurel bushes that had grown to 8ft and were doing incredibly well until this winter. They are all completely brown and dried out with no visible green anywhere. My question is, should we at least try to hard prune them to see if they come back? We had invested hundreds of dollars in creating a privacy hedge and want to see if we can save our investment. Is it worth the effort and how do you hard prune a laurel in an effort to revive it? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
| <Clarify> | Could you check if there is any green under the bark by gently scratching it? Also, could you provide more details about the winter conditions and any previous care or pruning the laurels have received? | 1 | [
"plant_type: skip laurel bushes",
"current_condition: completely brown and dried out with no visible green",
"user's investment: privacy hedge",
"user's action query: whether to hard prune to revive"
] | [
"confirmation of any signs of life (e.g., green under the bark)",
"specific winter conditions experienced",
"any previous pruning or care details",
"soil and drainage conditions"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#837732 | user: I have a younger dog wood. Probably in the ground for 3 years . This year it is wilting. Don’t think it is too much water. We were quite dry for a while. Gave it some water this weekend. I did add some fertilizer earlier in the year. Lost a Crabapple about 30 feet away that was healthy in the fall.
| <Respond> | Based on the information provided, there are a few potential reasons for your dogwood's wilting. Since the location is mostly shaded and well-drained, and you've recently watered it, water stress might not be the primary issue. However, the loss of a nearby crabapple tree could indicate a potential disease or pest problem. Dogwoods are susceptible to diseases like anthracnose and powdery mildew, as well as pests like borers. I recommend closely inspecting the leaves and branches for any signs of disease or pest activity. Additionally, testing the soil pH is a good step, as dogwoods prefer slightly acidic soil. If the pH is off, it could affect nutrient uptake. You can indeed drop off a soil sample at your local extension office in Canandaigua for testing. Once you have more information, such as the soil pH and any visible symptoms, we can better diagnose the issue and suggest appropriate treatments. | 1 | [
"tree_age: 3 years in the ground",
"watering: Recently watered after a dry spell",
"fertilization: Fertilizer added earlier in the year",
"location: Mostly shaded, moist but well-drained spot",
"surroundings: Ferns behind it",
"soil_pH: Unknown, user considering testing",
"nearby tree loss: Crabapple tree lost 30 feet away"
] | [
"Specific symptoms observed on the tree",
"Results of soil pH test",
"Presence of pests or diseases"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#864204 | user: I am concerned about my two sweet Bay Magnolia plants. They were planted this past fall. Are the spots on the leaves normal? Should I be concerned?
| <Clarify> | Could you describe the spots on the leaves in more detail? Are they a particular color or pattern? Additionally, have there been any changes in the environment, such as recent weather conditions or watering habits, that might have affected the plants? | 1 | [
"plant_type: sweet Bay Magnolia",
"planting_time: past fall",
"symptom: spots on the leaves"
] | [
"description of the spots (color, size, pattern)",
"environmental conditions (e.g., recent weather, watering habits)",
"any other symptoms (e.g., wilting, leaf drop)"
] | |||
#823741 | user: I live in West Salem Oregon, planted about 40 Waxleaf Privets on 3' spacing about 5 to 6 years ago and they seemed to be doing great. In the last 2 year or so they are dying off one plant at a time and appears to move along the row from at least two areas. There may be more areas as I am seeing other patches of yellow leaves. So far about 5 plants have completely died or are very close, with at least that many more showing signs. I replaced two so far. The larger one that is about 4' tall, may also be affected.
If attach some pictures is it possible to determine what the cause is and if I can do anything to stop it?
Thank you.
expert: I suspect you have a root problem of some kind. The images and description support this. The images show chlorotic leaves with slightly green veins and some with marginal burning. The leaves all seem to be on the same branch rather than just older or younger leaves. Although this a nutrient and/or water deficiency it occurs when the roots are not functioning well. The cause could be any of a number of issues from gophers working their way down the row (it looks like mounds of soil along some of those bushes) to a root rot fungus that also can go from plant to plant, down the row, year after year. When you dig up dead ones you can look for possible causes around the root collar or on the roots themselves. Although curious I do not think there are any chemical issues give the nice lawn and weedless garden bed and no issues on the other side of the fence as it looks like the neighbors do not do much gardening.
user: Professor Pscheidt, Thank you for your prompt and detailed response. Some details regarding your observations: There are no gophers in the area. The mound was created when they were planted and more so when a strip of sod was rolled over from the lawn side only. I only water in the summer with a soaker for one hour every one to three days depending on how dry the soil is. Attempting to always have the soil down a few inches damp. Once or twice a year I spread an 8 lb. bag of Osmocote over the area. It seems as though I can see some of it on the ground most of the year. The bed is larger behind and slopes away to the NNE. I normally use some round up on it once or twice a year. However there are some weeds do well but the shade does help keep them in check. I will dig one or two up in the near future and send pictures of the roots. Really hoping to find out if I am wasting my time replacing the dead ones. Thanks so much for your help! William Dye As a retired PLS for the State of Oregon I have taken classes from and helped instruct surveying/gps type classes in the Engineering Department from and with Professor Schultz, then in more recent times Michael Olsen. Both of these guy's are awesome. I could dream of being half as talented and knowledgeable as they are. However Professor Schultz's coffee has to be the worst I have ever tasted. :-) On 03/28/2023 5:05 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
user: Here are some pictures of one of my waxleaf privet. The roots are still damp from the hosing the mud off. I’m sure they are dry by now and I could send more pictures if that helps. Thank you for your help with this!William, DyeSent from my iPhone On Mar 29, 2023, at 12:03 PM, WILLIAM DYE <<personal data hidden>> wrote: Professor Pscheidt, Thank you for your prompt and detailed response. Some details regarding your observations: There are no gophers in the area. The mound was created when they were planted and more so when a strip of sod was rolled over from the lawn side only. I only water in the summer with a soaker for one hour every one to three days depending on how dry the soil is. Attempting to always have the soil down a few inches damp. Once or twice a year I spread an 8 lb. bag of Osmocote over the area. It seems as though I can see some of it on the ground most of the year. The bed is larger behind and slopes away to the NNE. I normally use some round up on it once or twice a year. However there are some weeds do well but the shade does help keep them in check. I will dig one or two up in the near future and send pictures of the roots. Really hoping to find out if I am wasting my time replacing the dead ones. Thanks so much for your help! William Dye As a retired PLS for the State of Oregon I have taken classes from and helped instruct surveying/gps type classes in the Engineering Department from and with Professor Schultz, then in more recent times Michael Olsen. Both of these guy's are awesome. I could dream of being half as talented and knowledgeable as they are. However Professor Schultz's coffee has to be the worst I have ever tasted. :-) On 03/28/2023 5:05 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
user: If it will help, I have another plant that is not completely dead yet but will be soon.Sent from my iPhone On Mar 29, 2023, at 12:03 PM, WILLIAM DYE <<personal data hidden>> wrote: Professor Pscheidt, Thank you for your prompt and detailed response. Some details regarding your observations: There are no gophers in the area. The mound was created when they were planted and more so when a strip of sod was rolled over from the lawn side only. I only water in the summer with a soaker for one hour every one to three days depending on how dry the soil is. Attempting to always have the soil down a few inches damp. Once or twice a year I spread an 8 lb. bag of Osmocote over the area. It seems as though I can see some of it on the ground most of the year. The bed is larger behind and slopes away to the NNE. I normally use some round up on it once or twice a year. However there are some weeds do well but the shade does help keep them in check. I will dig one or two up in the near future and send pictures of the roots. Really hoping to find out if I am wasting my time replacing the dead ones. Thanks so much for your help! William Dye As a retired PLS for the State of Oregon I have taken classes from and helped instruct surveying/gps type classes in the Engineering Department from and with Professor Schultz, then in more recent times Michael Olsen. Both of these guy's are awesome. I could dream of being half as talented and knowledgeable as they are. However Professor Schultz's coffee has to be the worst I have ever tasted. :-) On 03/28/2023 5:05 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
expert: The images of the roots under the poor bush seem to show a lot of roots in a compact area. It is difficult to tell but the roots seem to be mostly in good shape. I suspect it was difficult to dig out of the ground which would generally indicate it is not a root rot. Some roots look dark and may be rotted. I always check the cambium to see if that region is white, wet and fresh looking. If not then there could be issues with several different fugal root rotters. I do wonder about girdling roots. When planting we like to have the circling roots in a pot spread out. As they get older, circling roots will grow larger, impact each other including the trunk and can cut off the vascular system between the roots and branches.
user: When I looked today after it was dry, I could see his white spots around the root collar that’s in the indication. If it’s not root rot, then I’m wondering if I should continue replacing the dead ones?Sent from my iPhone On Apr 27, 2023, at 10:56 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
user: Sent from my iPhone On Apr 27, 2023, at 10:56 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Based on the information and images provided, it seems that the issue may not be root rot, especially since the roots were difficult to dig out, which usually indicates healthy roots. However, the presence of white spots around the root collar could suggest a fungal issue or another type of infection. Girdling roots could also be a problem, as they can constrict the plant's vascular system over time. Before replacing more plants, I recommend checking the cambium layer of the roots for any signs of discoloration or decay. If the cambium is healthy, it might be worth trying to correct any girdling roots by carefully pruning them. If you continue to see issues, it might be beneficial to consult with a local extension service or a professional arborist for a more detailed analysis. Additionally, ensure that the planting area has good drainage and that the plants are not being overwatered, as excessive moisture can exacerbate root problems. | 8 | [
"location: West Salem, Oregon",
"plant: Waxleaf Privets",
"spacing: 3' spacing",
"age: 5 to 6 years",
"watering: Soaker for one hour every one to three days in summer",
"fertilization: 8 lb. bag of Osmocote once or twice a year",
"herbicide use: Roundup once or twice a year",
"soil condition: Damp a few inches down",
"root condition: Some roots dark, possible girdling roots, white spots around root collar"
] | [] |
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