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#870197 | user: Over the last month our hellebore plants (over 50 of them and we cut them to ground last fall and new growth was initially bright green and flowering as usual) have blackened and shriveled up on each and every plant. Flowers as well. I don't see any insects on plants.
Please let me know if you can diagnose problem and if any suggestions to improve their health.
Thank you. KJ
user: I haven't heard back yet about our hellebore plants. Is there another way to connect? My main question is should we destroy these plants, roots and all? or is there a treatment to restore their health? Any feedback would be appreciated. Sincerely, Avery J On 05/26/2024 3:29 PM PDT Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote: Dear, Avery, Thank you for using Ask Extension. A request for support has been created and a representative will follow-up with you as soon as possible. Questions are usually answered within two business days. You can view this question's progress online. YOUR QUESTION #0140118: Diffuse dying hellebore in our front and back yard Over the last month our hellebore plants (over 50 of them and we cut them to ground last fall and new growth was initially bright green and flowering as usual) have blackened and shriveled up on each and every plant. Flowers as well. I don't see any insects on plants. Please let me know if you can diagnose problem and if any suggestions to improve their health. Thank you. KJ Ask Extension offers one-to-one expert answers from Cooperative Extension/University staff and volunteers within participating Land-Grant institutions across the United States. If you wish to provide additional comments or information regarding the issue, please login to your account for a complete archive of your prior questions and answers. This message for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for personalized professional advice. For specific local information, contact your local county Cooperative Extension office or other qualified professionals. eXtension Foundation does not recommend or endorse any specific tests, professional services, products, procedures, opinions, or other information that may be mentioned. Reliance on any information provided by eXtension Foundation, employees, suppliers, member universities, or other third parties through eXtension is solely at the user's own risk. All eXtension content and communication is subject to the Terms of Use which may be revised at any time.
| <Respond> | Based on the symptoms you've described and the suspicion of Hellebore Black Death virus, it is likely that your hellebore plants are indeed affected by this virus. Unfortunately, Hellebore Black Death is currently incurable. The best course of action is to remove and destroy the infected plants, including the roots, to prevent the spread of the virus to other plants. Ensure that you clean any tools used in the process to avoid contamination. It is also advisable to monitor any remaining or new hellebore plants for similar symptoms and act quickly if they appear. For more detailed information, you can refer to the official link you mentioned: https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/host-disease/helleborus-black-death. | 2 | [
"symptoms: Plants have blackened and shriveled up, including flowers. No insects observed.",
"actions taken: Plants were cut to the ground last fall.",
"suspected issue: Hellebore Black Death virus, which is incurable."
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#831963 | user: Do you know what this plant is? (Pix attached). It is a bulb. It blossoms in the early spring with white flowers.
| <Clarify> | Could you please describe any additional features of the plant, such as leaf shape, size, or any distinctive markings, since I cannot view the attached image? | 1 | [
"plant_type: bulb",
"flower_color: white",
"bloom_time: early spring"
] | [
"visual characteristics from the image"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#887648 | user: Hi - I planted a redwing Viburnum shrub in the fall of 2023. It grew this year to be decimated early on by something. I tried to Neem Oil protect it but I never discovered what was eating it. Should I cut it all the way back or treat it somehow this fall for next spring? It is about 5 feet tall. And it seems like the Amber Jubilee Ninebark which is planted nearby was afflicted at the end of the summer by the same thing.
Thank you!
| <Respond> | Since you've identified caterpillars as the likely culprits, it's important to manage them effectively to prevent further damage. For the fall, you can prune any severely damaged branches to help the plant focus its energy on healthy growth. However, avoid cutting the shrub all the way back unless it's severely damaged, as this can stress the plant. For next spring, consider using Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a natural bacterium that targets caterpillars without harming beneficial insects. Apply it early in the season when caterpillars are young. Additionally, keep an eye on both the Viburnum and the Ninebark for any signs of caterpillar activity and treat promptly. Regular monitoring and early intervention are key to managing pest issues effectively. | 1 | [
"plant: redwing Viburnum shrub",
"issue: decimated by an unknown pest",
"treatment tried: Neem Oil",
"height: 5 feet",
"nearby plant affected: Amber Jubilee Ninebark",
"pest identified: caterpillar"
] | [] | |||
#879616 | user: I tried to identify and the only ID I found was swallow wort, and I don't see a root system like this. I NEED to get rid of this and need to know what herbicide will work. I am digging down to hardpan in many instances. It has spread to my lawn. In my decades of gardening, I have never encountered anything like this. I can only submit one photo at this time due to the extreme weather and some health issues I am experiencing at this time. The plant has slender whitish carrot-like roots, not in all but most. While some extend and branch off a bit, it is not like rhizomes or continuous root systems like English Ivy.
| <Respond> | Creeping bellflower (Campanula rapunculoides) can be quite invasive and challenging to control due to its extensive root system. To effectively manage and eliminate it, you can use a systemic herbicide containing glyphosate. Apply the herbicide directly to the leaves of the plant, ensuring thorough coverage. It's important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application rates and safety precautions. Repeated applications may be necessary, as this plant can be persistent. Additionally, consider removing as much of the root system as possible manually, especially in areas where herbicide use is not desirable. Regular monitoring and treatment will be key to preventing its spread. | 1 | [
"plant_identification: creeping bellflower (Campanula rapunculoides)",
"current issue: The plant has spread to the user's lawn and has a root system that is difficult to manage."
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#822969 | user: A branch about 20 ft high fell off my Oregon White Oak tree and it is rotten and covered with mushrooms. I cut the rest of the branch off and the core is rotted. it looks like the rot may go partway into the tree. The rest of the tree appears healthy and there are no other visible mushrooms. Is there anything I can do to save it?
If the answer is no, How long before it will rot enough that it becomes a hazard?
Thank you for your help.
| <Respond> | Unfortunately, once a tree has significant internal rot and fungal infection, it is often difficult to save. The best course of action is to monitor the tree for any further signs of decline, such as additional mushroom growth or dieback, and consult with a certified arborist for an on-site evaluation. As for replacement plants, you should consider species that are resistant to common fungal diseases in your area. Some options might include certain types of conifers or other hardwoods that are known for their resistance. It's also a good idea to improve soil drainage and avoid overwatering, as these conditions can exacerbate fungal issues. For a specific list of resistant plants, you might want to contact your local extension office or a professional nursery for recommendations tailored to your region. | 1 | [
"tree species: Oregon White Oak",
"symptoms: rotten branch, mushrooms, core rot",
"tree condition: rest of the tree appears healthy",
"previous issue: aspen trees died of the same fungus",
"user's preference: plant something not susceptible to the same fungus"
] | [] | |||
#887259 | user: We learned a couple years ago that we would now need to soak our raspberries in a mild acidic solution after picking them (vinegar and water, or lemon juice and water) so the small whitish cream worms inside the fruit sections would come out.
We would like those worms to be gone, so the berries are able to be eaten from the bush after rinsing, without the change of texture and "snack-ability" that the soaking and rinsing bring about.
Are there things I can do this fall to prevent these bugs from doing what they do next spring? I have a section of raspberries 5-6 feet deep running the full length of our 40 foot garage.
Thank you!
| <Respond> | To prevent the infestation of small worms, likely the larvae of the spotted wing drosophila, you can take several steps this fall and next spring. First, ensure that you clean up any fallen fruit and debris around your raspberry plants, as these can harbor pests. Prune your raspberry canes to improve air circulation and reduce humidity, which can deter the flies. Consider using row covers to protect your plants from adult flies laying eggs. In the spring, you can also use traps to monitor and reduce the adult fly population. Additionally, applying an appropriate insecticide at the right time can help, but be sure to follow local guidelines and consider organic options if you prefer. Regularly inspect your plants for signs of infestation and act quickly if you notice any issues. | 1 | [
"current issue: Small whitish cream worms are infesting raspberries.",
"current solution: Soaking raspberries in a mild acidic solution after picking.",
"desired outcome: Raspberries can be eaten directly from the bush without soaking.",
"raspberry patch size: 5-6 feet deep, 40 feet long."
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#882634 | user: Our neighborhood pond looks terrible! I don’t know if it is algae bloom, and what can be done. I am going to try to send a picture.
| <Respond> | Thank you for providing the details and images, Angeline. Based on the information and the images, it seems like the pond is experiencing an overgrowth of water lettuce, which can often be mistaken for algae bloom. Water lettuce can spread rapidly and cover the surface of the pond, leading to reduced oxygen levels in the water, which can affect aquatic life. The presence of a large number of Egrets might be due to the increased availability of food sources, such as fish or insects, which thrive in such conditions.
To manage the water lettuce, you can consider manual removal, which involves physically removing the plants from the pond. This can be labor-intensive but effective for small to medium-sized ponds. Another option is to introduce biological controls, such as certain types of fish that feed on water lettuce. However, this should be done with caution to avoid disrupting the local ecosystem.
Since the Civic Association is currently unable to fund professional treatment, organizing a community effort for manual removal might be a practical short-term solution. Additionally, engaging with local environmental groups or seeking grants for pond management could provide long-term support. If you need further assistance or a site visit, please let me know, and we can arrange a suitable time. Thank you for your proactive approach to maintaining the pond's health. | 1 | [
"location: Marwick Estates, off of Winchester Pike just south of Refugee Rd/104",
"symptoms: Presence of water lettuce, large number of Egrets visiting",
"previous actions: Pond was treated in the last two years, but not this year due to budget constraints",
"images: Attached images of the pond"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#825567 | user: Hi! Can you tell me what is attacking my Japanese snowbell tree and how to treat it?
| <Clarify> | Could you please describe the symptoms you are observing on your Japanese snowbell tree? Additionally, any details about the location of the tree, visible pests, or signs of disease would be helpful. If possible, please provide more information about the environmental conditions where the tree is planted. | 1 | [
"plant: Japanese snowbell tree"
] | [
"description of symptoms",
"location of the tree",
"any visible pests or signs of disease",
"environmental conditions",
"image details"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#838927 | user: I’m wondering why my newly planted blue spruce is browning. Is it lack of water? I’m being careful not to overwater because I have clay soil. So I want to make sure I do the best thing for the tree.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details on how often and how much you are watering the tree? Additionally, do you notice any signs of pests or diseases on the tree, and what is the sun exposure like in its current location? | 1 | [
"tree type: weeping blue spruce",
"soil type: clay",
"planting time: since May",
"weather conditions: hot",
"watering caution: careful not to overwater"
] | [
"watering frequency and amount",
"drainage conditions",
"signs of pests or diseases",
"location and sun exposure"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#880919 | user: We have a weeping willow that has some kind of fungus and need help with treatment options. See attached.
| <Clarify> | Could you describe the specific symptoms you are observing on the weeping willow, such as leaf spots, discoloration, or any other visible signs? Additionally, information about the tree's environment, like soil type and moisture levels, would be helpful. Have you applied any treatments previously? | 1 | [
"tree_type: weeping willow",
"issue: fungal infection",
"insect_presence: none observed in 4 years"
] | [
"specific symptoms observed",
"environmental conditions (e.g., soil type, moisture levels)",
"any previous treatments applied",
"location of the tree (to consider regional fungal issues)"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#833857 | user: Hi, Taylor are having a home built on Lake Fremont in Zimmerman, MN (Sherburne County). One of the pieces of equipment moving dirt around hit one of our oak trees (I believe it is a red oak) and left a pretty good size gash in the bark. We would hate to lose this tree. Is there anything I can do to "bandage" the gash? Please see attached photo.
Thank you for your help!
| <Respond> | To help your red oak tree recover from the gash, you can take the following steps:
1. Clean the Wound: Gently remove any loose bark around the wound, but avoid cutting into healthy bark. This will help prevent disease and pests from entering the wound.
2. Let it Heal Naturally: Trees have a natural ability to compartmentalize wounds. Avoid using wound dressings or sealants, as they can trap moisture and lead to decay.
3. Monitor the Tree: Keep an eye on the tree for signs of disease or pest infestation. If you notice any issues, consult with a local arborist.
4. Maintain Tree Health: Ensure the tree is well-watered, especially during dry periods, and consider applying a slow-release fertilizer to support its recovery.
By following these steps, you can help your oak tree heal and reduce the risk of further damage. | 1 | [
"tree_type: red oak",
"location: Zimmerman, MN (Sherburne County)",
"issue: gash in the bark caused by equipment",
"user's desire: to prevent damage or loss of the tree"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#837981 | user: What causes leaf curl on my Honeycrisp apple trees? No significant sign of leaf spotting no abundance of any bugs I have used a citrus based disease/insect control with no dramatic improvement.
expert: Have you been watering your tree? I am not sure where you are located, but much of the U.S. has had a crazy drought, and cupped leaves are often a symptom of lack of water. Honeycrisp also gets yellow leaves and mottled for no reason but doesn't cause problems with the tree. I would water her and fertilizer on her soon. Don't fertilize after July 4th.
user: I believe the trees to have been properly watered, and there has been sufficient rain here to the extent that none of the other fruit trees are implicated since last asking, the circumstances have worsened, despite the use of an organic anti-bacterial/fungal, as well as corresponding organic citrus base pest control. Any thoughts? Sent from my iPhone On Jun 28, 2023, at 9:26 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the soil conditions and any recent changes in the care or environment of the trees? Additionally, can you describe the leaf curl in more detail, such as any color changes or texture differences? | 3 | [
"tree type: Honeycrisp apple",
"symptom: leaf curl",
"location: not specified",
"watering: adequate",
"other trees: plum trees unaffected",
"treatments used: organic anti-bacterial/fungal and citrus-based pest control"
] | [
"location/climate details",
"soil conditions",
"any recent changes in care or environment",
"detailed description of leaf curl (e.g., color changes, texture)"
] | |||
#881038 | user: Hi there, we planted a mature pinyon tree in our yard about 2 years ago. This year, it appears to have a lot of new growth on the tips of its branches. However, if you poke your head inside of the tree, there are no needles - just sticks. Is it normal for a pinyon to only have green needles on its exterior and nothing but sticks on the inside? Would it help the tree at all to prune some of the twigs that don't carry any needles? Thanks!
| <Respond> | It's quite common for pinyon pines to have denser foliage on the outer parts of the tree, with less growth inside. This is often due to the tree's natural growth pattern and the way light reaches the branches. The presence of sap can indicate a few things, such as natural resin production or a response to stress or pests. From the images, if the sap spots are small and not excessive, it might just be normal resin production. However, if you notice any signs of pests, such as holes in the bark or sawdust, it could indicate an infestation. Pruning dead or non-productive twigs can help improve air circulation and light penetration, which might encourage healthier growth. Continue with the adjusted watering schedule, and monitor the tree for any changes. If you suspect pest activity, consider consulting a local arborist for a more detailed inspection. | 1 | [
"tree type: pinyon",
"age since planting: 2 years",
"current condition: new growth on tips, no needles inside, some sap spots",
"watering schedule: once a week",
"user concern: lack of needles inside, presence of sap spots"
] | [] | |||
#834617 | user: Good afternoon! I have several fruit trees in my yard and many of them have brown spots on their leaves, some more than others. Also, many of them are not bearing fruit this year, which is surprising to me because we haven't had any late frost this year. Is it due to the unusually wet weather we've had? Do I need to be concerned about it? Thank you.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the appearance and distribution of the brown spots on the leaves? Are there any signs of pests or diseases, and what are the soil conditions and care practices for your trees? | 1 | [
"types of fruit trees: pear, peach, cherry, plum, apricot, apple",
"symptoms: brown spots on leaves",
"fruit production: only pear and apple trees are bearing fruit",
"weather condition: unusually wet weather, no late frost"
] | [
"specific details about the appearance and distribution of the brown spots",
"any signs of pests or diseases",
"soil conditions and drainage",
"care practices (e.g., fertilization, pruning)"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#884783 | user: I would love to create a beautiful yard that people and dogs enjoy. Currently, my grass is dead but the weeds are alive and well. I've been spraying the weeds with a mixture of vinegar, salt, and dish detergent but I don't know if it's working. The yard gets sun and shade. I would really appreciate suggestions on 1.) preparing my yard, 2.) fast-growing ground covers, 3.) plants that could be used for borders to create separate areas, and 4.) plants that grow between flagstone.
I know I'm asking a lot but I hate to buy plants, water them, and watch them die because they weren't good choices.
Thank you for your time and ideas.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more information about your soil type and condition, as well as your climate zone or location? This will help in recommending the best plants and preparation methods for your yard. | 1 | [
"current condition: Grass is dead, weeds are thriving.",
"weed control method: Using a mixture of vinegar, salt, and dish detergent.",
"yard conditions: Gets sun and shade."
] | [
"Soil type and condition",
"Climate zone or location",
"Specific preferences for ground covers and border plants",
"Any specific requirements for plants between flagstones"
] | |||
#885537 | user: Good morning…I’ve noticed that our front lawn is looking blotchy in color. Upon further inspection it appears that we have an infestation of crabgrass. I’m enclosing some pics. Could you please confirm. More importantly, how can I eradicate this nasty invasive? I’m open to both mechanical and chemical controls. Thanks for your help!
John
| <Respond> | Good morning, John! Based on the images you provided, it does appear that you have a crabgrass infestation. For mechanical control, you can manually remove the crabgrass by pulling it out, ensuring you get the roots to prevent regrowth. As for chemical control, glyphosate is indeed available over the counter, but it is non-selective and will kill any grass it contacts, so use it carefully. Spot treatment is recommended to minimize damage to your lawn. Regarding reseeding, Fall is an excellent time to reseed your lawn as the cooler temperatures and increased rainfall create ideal conditions for grass seed germination. For a grass seed mix, I recommend a blend that matches your existing lawn type. If you have a cool-season lawn, a mix of Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and fine fescue is often a good choice. Make sure to prepare the soil well before seeding and keep it consistently moist until the new grass is established. Best of luck with your lawn care this weekend! | 1 | [
"lawn condition: blotchy in color with suspected crabgrass infestation",
"user's preference: mechanical approach as primary with limited chemical controls",
"chemical control: glyphosate",
"timing for reseeding: Fall",
"user's plan: tackle this weekend",
"request for grass seed mix recommendation: True"
] | [] | |||
#831873 | user: Hi, Harper girlfriend has some sheep that are currently grazing near her house on a different pasture from the other one which seems to be overrun with
Some sort of beetle or aphid. My question is 1) what are they and 2) what can be done to eradicate them. If an insecticide, what type and 3) if an insecticide is used, how long before the animals can safely graze after application of the insecticide?
This is in Golden, CO. Not sure if there is some sort of local infestation.
Thank you, Charlie
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details or close-up images of the pests for accurate identification? Additionally, what type of vegetation is present in the pasture, and have you noticed any specific damage patterns on the plants? | 1 | [
"location: Golden, CO",
"pest type: beetle or aphid",
"concern: eradication and safe grazing post-insecticide"
] | [
"specific identification of the pest",
"severity of infestation",
"current pasture management practices",
"type of vegetation in the pasture"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#877759 | user: I planted this river birch last summer. I followed planting protocol for a container tree and watered it as advised as well. I watered it a bit more since we had a lack of rain last summer and fall.
There are branches that have struggled to leaf out. It seems slow to leaf out this summer. I had watered it in early spring as well due to lack of snow.
Can I help it in anyway now?
expert: Thank you for writing. The trees appear a bit overwatered. They need pruning of the dead branches and dead long tips of branches. https://myperfectplants.com/blogs/blog/how-to-prune-a-young-river-birch-tree You goal is this kind of shape. https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/river-birch-betula-nigra/#:~:text=River%20birch%20is%20a%20medium,pyramidal%20to%20upright%20oval%20form. https://www.mehrabyannursery.com/growing-guide/shade-trees/the-complete-guide-to-a-river-birch-tree/ Given that this is a fast growing tree, it is important to prune properly from the start. An arborist could guide you through the process from the start and then return every couple years. https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/how-hire-tree-care-professional
user: Hi - thank you for your help with pruning. I have a different trouble now, and hope you dont mind helping. My tree got attacked by a deer I think... the bark is damaged. It doesn't go completely around the little trunk. This just happened Wednesday. I put up a deer fence now. But I am wondering if there is anything I can do to help it repair itself. I see there is tree wrap that is sold and was wondering if that could be protective. I have attached a picture.Thank you,Leslie HansonOn Thu, Jul 18, 2024 at 1:19 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
expert: Thank you for writing back. i need a picture of the undamaged bark area so that I can see how much is left.
user: On Sat, Nov 9, 2024 at 11:42 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Thank you for providing the additional information and images. Since the damage does not go all the way around the trunk, the tree still has a good chance of recovery. Here are some steps you can take to help your river birch recover:
1. **Tree Wrap**: Applying a tree wrap can help protect the damaged area from further injury and reduce moisture loss. Make sure to use a breathable wrap to prevent moisture buildup under the wrap, which can lead to rot.
2. **Wound Care**: Avoid using any sealants or wound dressings, as these can sometimes do more harm than good by trapping moisture and pathogens.
3. **Monitor and Maintain**: Keep an eye on the tree for signs of stress or disease. Ensure it receives adequate water, especially during dry periods, but avoid overwatering.
4. **Fertilization**: Consider applying a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in the spring to support the tree's recovery and growth.
5. **Professional Assessment**: If you're concerned about the extent of the damage or the tree's recovery, consulting with a certified arborist can provide you with a more detailed assessment and care plan.
By taking these steps, you can help your river birch recover from the deer damage. If you have any further questions or concerns, feel free to reach out. | 5 | [
"tree_type: river birch",
"damage_type: bark damage caused by deer",
"damage_extent: does not go completely around the trunk",
"user_action: deer fence installed",
"user_query: whether tree wrap can help protect and repair the damage"
] | [] | |||
#827980 | user: Phyllostachys aureus 60ft garden 20 yrs old enclosed on 3 sides is dying. 1st leaf tips brown then yellow/orange hue green fades striates, culm bottom fades to brown color dries, then top culm area dries completely, leafs tan color paper thin fall off, breakage of culm top. Occurs to new 20ft growth and old culms even 5ft emergency shoots after full leafing (not before). Clay dirt, compacted on top but wet underneath. Some roots above ground are fine some dry some rotted underneath the soil. Help, pls.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details on your watering and fertilization practices, as well as any recent changes in the care or environment of the bamboo? Additionally, have you attempted any treatments or interventions so far? | 1 | [
"plant_species: Phyllostachys aureus",
"age: 20 years",
"symptoms: leaf tips brown, yellow/orange hue, green fades striates, culm bottom fades to brown, culm top dries completely, leaves tan, paper thin, fall off, culm top breakage, affects new and old growth, roots above ground fine, some dry, some rotted",
"soil: clay, compacted on top, wet underneath",
"environment: enclosed on 3 sides",
"additional observations: white adhered dusty ring on nodules, no visible pests, previous aphid infestation in the area, missing dirt, exposed root dendrils"
] | [
"watering schedule",
"fertilization practices",
"any recent changes in care or environment",
"specifics on soil drainage",
"any treatments already attempted"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#877127 | user: Our blue spruce has done very well for four years and now all of a sudden is dropping leaves from the main part of the stem and you can now see through the tree. Can you tell us what might be happening?
expert: Hi, Reese, We're happy to help. Based on the picture you sent, the good news is that you appear to have healthy new growth (at the tips of the branches). However, to dig deeper, would you provide additional information? Could you send us a picture or two that shows the whole tree and any surrounding structures? Also, could you help with the following information: Where are you located? Town or zip code? When was the spruce planted and where is it located (east, west, etc.)? Can you describe your watering process for summer and winter? Do you use any fertilizer or herbicides, pesticides nearby? And last, if you have other plants, grass or trees in this area, how are they looking right now?
user: Hi! Thank you so much for the help. We deeply winter watered every month and a half. We have a drip line on the tree. Photos below will show the tree and the pergola next to it. It’s been there for three years. We are in Parker, zip 80135. Our back yard faces south and in the photo I am pointing due west. My husband used fertilizer in the grass but the dispenser had an edge guard so he’s pretty confident no fertilizer got there. Everything around the tree is thriving - the hops, honeysuckle, trumpet vines and daisies in the same area are all in the same drip lines and are doing wonderfully. Please let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks again! AlexA l e x a n d r i a L a P r e e<personal data hidden> 3 0 3 . 7 1 8 . 7 8 1 8 Sent from my iPhone On Jul 15, 2024, at 1:54 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
expert: Thanks, Reese, It appears that the pictures did not attach, could you please resend them? Also, thanks for the answers to the previous questions--it's terrific that you are winter watering!! In looking at the first photo, in spite of some new growth, the yellowing and loss of older needles does indicate that the tree is stressed. The stress could be caused by multiple factors and having the additional photos could help. In the meantime, a few more questions has any broad leaf herbicide been used on the surrounding grass or area around the tree? Tree roots will extend into the surrounding area and could be impacted regarding the drip line that's supporting the tree, it's helpful to eliminate any drip line problems. Approximately how much water is the tree getting? Could you check the dirt in several places under the tree canopy? If you place your finger into the dirt a few inches, how moist or dry is it? You can also measure the water by placing some small cups (like Dixie cup size) in various places under the tree and measure the water after a watering cycle. If the needles are dropping from the main part of the stem, do you see anything unusual? If so, could you also send a picture of the stems?
user: No roundup type use anywhere in the yard. My husband say the drip line has 3 pinholes and it gets watered underground 8 minutes twice a day. I’ll go feel the dirt. A A l e x a n d r i a L a P r e eL A P R E E + A S S O C I A T E S <personal data hidden> 3 0 3 . 7 1 8 . 7 8 1 8 Sent from my iPhone On Jul 15, 2024, at 4:16 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Thank you for the additional information and the photos, Alex. Based on what you've shared, it seems like the tree might be experiencing stress due to overwatering. Blue spruces prefer well-drained soil and can be sensitive to excessive moisture, which can lead to root rot and needle drop. Given that the soil is quite wet, I recommend reducing the watering frequency. You might try watering once a day or even every other day, depending on how quickly the soil dries out. Additionally, ensure that the soil around the tree has good drainage. If the problem persists, consider consulting with a local arborist who can assess the tree in person. Let me know if you have any further questions! | 5 | [
"location: Parker, zip 80135",
"tree age: 3 years",
"watering schedule: 8 minutes twice a day with drip line",
"soil moisture: quite wet",
"surrounding plants: thriving",
"fertilizer use: none near the tree",
"herbicide use: none",
"tree orientation: backyard faces south, photo pointing west"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#883765 | user: What is the name of this tree?
expert: It would help to see a closer photo of the leaves and branches to be sure, but from what I can see from your photo, this looks like a London planetree (Platanus x acerifolia). It has leaves similar to a maple tree (but maples have an opposite branching structure; on London planetrees, the branches are alternate). Christa
user: Thanks for your response. Here are two closer pics.Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer On Tue, Sep 3, 2024 at 10:32 AM, Ask Extension wrote:
| <Clarify> | Could you please ensure that the images are properly attached or provide a link where I can view them? This will help me confirm the identification of the tree. | 3 | [
"initial identification: London planetree (Platanus x acerifolia)",
"user provided closer images: True"
] | [
"access to the attached images for further analysis"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#841622 | user: Can you ID this vine that is wrapping around shrubs and killing them in my woodland? Then, how to irradicate....
Thanks, Charlie me know if my photo didn't go through.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the environmental conditions in your woodland, such as the climate and soil type? Additionally, are there any similar plants or vines in the area that you are aware of? | 1 | [
"description: Very thin, stringy vines with no leaves or possibly tiny ends, abundant in one area of the woods, wrapping around and killing other foliage.",
"location: Woodland area",
"new occurrence: Not seen in past years"
] | [
"Image analysis or description confirmation",
"Specific environmental conditions (e.g., climate, soil type)",
"Any known similar plants in the area"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#833468 | user: What is wrong with the plant? What can I do for it?
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the growing conditions of your pea plant, such as sunlight exposure, watering schedule, soil type, and any recent changes in its environment? Additionally, have you noticed any pests or other symptoms on the plant? | 1 | [
"plant: pea plant",
"symptom: turning white"
] | [
"environmental conditions (e.g., sunlight, temperature, humidity)",
"watering schedule",
"soil type and condition",
"presence of pests or diseases",
"any recent changes in care or environment"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#880875 | user: A number of perennials are displaying signs of distress-stems bending down, newer leaves on tops of plants are smaller, blooms are deformed, newer buds on black-eyed Susans are brown and appear to be dead. Affected plants include:
goldenrods, coneflowers, cardinal flower, phlox, black-eyed Susans
expert: If there are no other signs of pest or disease damage, the plants are probably suffering from heat stress. Plants are sensitive to both air and soil surface temperatures. Temperatures ranging from 60° to 85°F are optimum for plant growth and development. Plants have limited ability to regulate temperature and begin to experience stress as air temperatures rise above 86°F. Water evaporation through pores in the leaves is the primary cooling mechanism used by plants. If a plant doesn’t have enough water, the pores in the leaves close and the plant can no longer keep itself cool. When temperatures are exceptionally high and prolonged, plants can lose water through evaporation much faster than the roots can absorb it. Wilted, drooping leaves, resulting from a combination of excess water loss and high internal temperatures, are often the first signs of heat stress. Sunburn is another type of heat damage caused by excessive exposure to direct sunlight. Sunburned leaves and stems become discolored and appear scorched. Plants experiencing continued heat stress will be unable to maintain the processes necessary for growth and development and will become stunted and vulnerable to insect attack. So what can be done to minimize effects of heat stress: Water thoroughly in the morning on days when high temperatures are expected, to help plants cope with excess heat. In general, when watering plants, do it deeply and infrequently so that they put their energy into sending roots down into the lower depths of the soil. During a period of drought, the roots are then able to access moisture reserves deeper in the soil. If plants are watered too lightly, then the moisture only penetrates the top layer of soil, resulting in plants with shallow root systems. During a heatwave, the water in the top inch of soil quickly evaporates, so heat-stressed plants also need deep watering.If discovered in time during a heat wave, a drooping wilted plant can often be revived with additional water. Watch for radiant heat - Pay special attention to plants next to walkways, patios, and other structures that radiate heat. They may be the first to show signs of heat stress and the need for extra water. Add mulch - Apply two to four inches of organic mulch over the root areas around garden plants, trees, and shrubs. This will lower soil temperature and diminish moisture loss. Provide shade - Use shade cloth to provide direct sun protection and reduce the air temperature around sun and heat-exposed plants. Avoid applying fertilizers during extreme heat as they stimulate growth and add to plant stress. Fertilizers also absorb moisture from the root zone. Many plants will stop blooming during extreme heat. Removing the spent flowers can improve the plant's appearance, keep plants from spending precious resources on fruit and seed development, and set the plant up to bloom again once the heat wave passes. Following is a link to Iowa State Univ Extension with more info about managing the garden in a heat wave: https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/managing-garden-extreme-heat
user: Thanks for your prompt response. I'm sorry I provided you with very skimpy information. These plants and the damage are confined to one area; other areas of unaffected so far. We do follow the watering tips and do not fertilize the native pollinators. Does this point to a fungal disease? How can I identify whether or not it is a fungal disease? If it is, what are the treatment options? Thank you!
expert: If you think it might be a fungal disease it would be helpful if you could send some close-up pictures of leaves that might be spotted or discolored as well as pictures of deformed flowers. The close-ups would help in identifying problem other than heat wilt. Following are a few links to University Extension sites that provide more info on common fungal diseases with pictures that may help you determine if your plants are affected. Many if not most fungal diseases show up on the leaves. https://www.extension.iastate.edu/news/yard-and-garden-common-diseases-perennials https://extension.umd.edu/resource/fungal-leaf-spot-disease-flowers/ https://extension.psu.edu/key-herbaceous-plants-and-key-pathogens-diseases
user: Thank you! This is very helpful. I will send some photos tomorrow (Sunday). On Sat, Aug 10, 2024 at 1:42 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Clarify> | Could you please describe any specific symptoms visible in the photos you sent, such as leaf spots, discoloration, or any other notable features? This will help in identifying if a fungal disease is present. | 5 | [
"plants affected: goldenrods, coneflowers, cardinal flower, phlox, black-eyed Susans",
"symptoms: stems bending down, smaller newer leaves, deformed blooms, brown and dead newer buds",
"location: confined to one area",
"watering practices: followed recommended tips",
"fertilization: not fertilizing native pollinators"
] | [
"visual confirmation of fungal disease from photos",
"specific symptoms visible in the photos",
"environmental conditions in the affected area"
] | |||
#888857 | user: Hello, these tiny flying bugs, not great flyers, they are fairly slow and erratic, seem to be attracted to water (not light so much) seem to somehow find their way into our 27th floor condominium in downtown St. Paul. Pretty distinctive wing pattern, can you identify?
Thank you!
| <Clarify> | Could you provide a detailed description of the wing pattern or any other distinguishing features of the bugs? Additionally, are there any specific areas in your condominium where you notice them more frequently, such as near drains or windows? | 1 | [
"location: 27th floor condominium in downtown St. Paul",
"attraction: attracted to water",
"flight pattern: slow and erratic",
"appearance frequency: seen most of the summer, not numerous, one or two at a time",
"possible identification: thought to be drain flies"
] | [
"detailed description of the wing pattern",
"any other distinguishing features",
"environmental conditions in the condominium (e.g., humidity, presence of drains)"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#888300 | user: Some gnat/flies near young crepe myrtle.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the gnats or flies, such as their size, color, and behavior? Additionally, have you noticed any damage to the crepe myrtle or changes in its environment recently? | 1 | [
"issue: Presence of gnat/flies near young crepe myrtle",
"images: Attached images #888300_0.jpg and #888300_1.jpg"
] | [
"Description of the gnat/flies (size, color, behavior)",
"Any visible damage to the crepe myrtle",
"Current weather conditions",
"Any recent changes in care or environment"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#881232 | user: Hi - I have a bunch of coneflowers in my yard (Towson, MD) and a lot of them have black petals and others have weird things growing out of the seed heads. I'm wondering how to address this.
And if I need to remove the plants, should I just cut down so there's a few inches left, or do I need to pull them out by the root? I'm not sure if the black petals are related to the weird growths and if they should be treated the same or differently. I'm also worried about the surrounding plants (liatris, butterfly bush, milk weed) and don't want them to get sick. Thank you so much!
expert: The plants pictured in images 2 and 3 unfortunately have the classic symptoms of Aster Yellows, a disease that is incurable and not treatable. The entire plant in those cases should be removed and disposed of. The plant in the first image is not showing symptoms of a serious problem, and could simply have drought stress damage, petal damage from passing insect chewing (nothing that needs intervention), or possibly some degree of Coneflower Rosette Mite injury, which similarly does not need treating (especially given the plant's value to pollinators and birds). Aster Yellows can be fairly commonplace, and avoiding the disease entirely is not really possible. If symptoms appear on other plants, they can be removed as soon as they are discovered, but symptomless plants can be left alone and just monitored for changes. Miri
user: Thank you, Charlie, for your fast and thorough reply! I really appreciate it! Kris On Tue, Aug 13, 2024 at 9:28 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
expert: You're welcome!
user: Hi - I have another question. I've removed the flowers with asters yellow (see pink circle area in photo), and I'm wondering if/when I can plant something new there. Is the spot contaminated for a certain amount of time? Thanks so much! KrisOn Tue, Aug 13, 2024 at 10:24 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Aster Yellows is spread by leafhoppers and not through the soil, so the area is not contaminated in a way that would prevent you from planting new flowers. You can plant new flowers in the area at any time. However, it's a good idea to monitor the new plants for any signs of the disease, as it can be reintroduced by leafhoppers. Consider choosing plants that are less susceptible to Aster Yellows to reduce the risk of future infections. | 5 | [
"location: Towson, MD",
"disease: Aster Yellows",
"action taken: removed the flowers with Aster Yellows"
] | [] | |||
#873892 | user: Hello,
I'm starting to see rings/spots on my hydrangea leaves that look like maybe leaf spot. Last year in late summer or early autumn all four plants were heavily affected and I cut them back rather drastically (I didn't know anything about hydrangeas then or much about leaf spot). Is this leaf spot, and what can I do to prevent it from spreading to more leaves? Appreciate your help!
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the current environmental conditions, such as humidity and watering practices? Also, have you noticed any other symptoms or changes in the plants? | 1 | [
"symptoms: Rings/spots on hydrangea leaves",
"previous action: Cut back plants drastically last year"
] | [
"Confirmation of leaf spot diagnosis",
"Current environmental conditions",
"Cultural practices being followed"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#836267 | user: I've lost several dozen pine trees over the last 6 years. I am attaching pictures of the bore holes on the trees. Most holes are the size of a pencil lead. Some are smaller. Trees 1 and 2 are already dead. Tree 3 is a picture of a tree that has lot some bark and the resin underneath. Does this damage look like the result of Mountain Pine Beetle infestation or a different kind of beetle? What can I do to protect the rest of my trees? I have roughly 600 trees on 4 acres.
Thank you for your help!
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details on any other symptoms you've observed, such as changes in foliage color or the presence of sawdust at the base of the trees? Additionally, have you noticed any patterns in the spread of the damage across your property? | 1 | [
"symptoms: Bore holes the size of a pencil lead, some smaller; loss of bark and resin underneath.",
"number of affected trees: Several dozen over 6 years.",
"location: 4 acres with roughly 600 trees."
] | [
"Confirmation of beetle type from images.",
"Current management practices being used.",
"Presence of any other symptoms or signs of infestation."
] | |||
#886987 | user: Attached is a photo of this growth or fungus, or something in our beech tree, which is quite old and apparently qualifies as a historic tree.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide a description of the growth or fungus, its location on the tree, and any other symptoms or changes you've noticed? Additionally, what specific assistance are you seeking (e.g., identification, treatment advice)? | 1 | [
"tree_type: beech",
"tree_age: quite old",
"tree status: historic",
"issue: growth or fungus"
] | [
"description of the growth or fungus",
"location on the tree",
"any other symptoms observed",
"recent changes in the tree's environment",
"user's goal (e.g., identification, treatment advice)"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#830118 | user: I’m looking for someone to advise in the Newbury, Ohio area as how to navigate ornamental gardens around a septic tank, leach field and curtain drain that surrounds the leach field. I have a large backyard but unfortunately the entire septic system takes up two thirds of it. I’m looking for detailed advice for my wife ( the gardener ) as she is frustrated that options seem limited. She would need advice on what to plant, ( she has already started) where to plant , and how close she can go to different areas of the septic areas .
We know where all lines are. It would need to be someone very familiar with planting around curtain and French drains. Thank you
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details on the types of plants your wife has already considered or planted, as well as any specific aesthetic or functional goals she has for the garden? Additionally, do you have information on the soil type and conditions in your backyard, and are there any local regulations or guidelines you need to follow when planting around the septic system? | 1 | [
"location: Newbury, Ohio",
"area of concern: around a septic tank, leach field, and curtain drain",
"current status: user's wife has already started planting",
"need: detailed advice on what to plant, where to plant, and proximity to septic areas",
"awareness: user knows where all lines are"
] | [
"specific types of plants already considered or planted",
"soil type and conditions",
"any specific aesthetic or functional goals for the garden",
"any restrictions or guidelines from local regulations"
] | |||
#874487 | user: It looks like my peonies are sprouting withered or browned. There are two plants that I planted around the same time, one came to just fine and one didn't. I was curious if you had any solutions or problem-solving. I attached a picture of my plant to better show the problem. Thank you so much!
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more information about the recent weather conditions, your watering schedule, fertilization practices, and whether you've noticed any signs of pests or diseases on the affected plant? | 1 | [
"issue: Withered or browned flower buds on one peony plant.",
"comparison: The other peony plant is healthy and blooming.",
"plant age: 5 to 8 years since planting.",
"condition of other parts: Leaves and stems look fine."
] | [
"Details about recent weather conditions.",
"Watering schedule and amount.",
"Fertilization practices.",
"Any signs of pests or diseases on the affected plant."
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#880907 | user: I planted 5 Chelsea Prize hybrid cucumber plants all from the same seed source, 3 from transplants I started indoors and 2 direct seeded in 4 different locations (1 transplant each in separate raised beds across from one another separated by an arched trellis, 1 transplant in a raised bed along with several summer squash plants, and 2 direct sown in a 10 gallon fabric pot). I also planted Marketmore and Spacemaster cucumbers direct sown from seed in separate fabric grow bags which do not show any disease. I came home after 7 days of vacation to find all of the Chelsea Prize cucumbers with yellowing of the leaves with curling and drooping and stunted fruit as shown in the photographs. One grow bag with cantaloupes adjacent to the cucumbers was also affected. I pulled out all of the plants and put them in the garbage. Do you think this is cucumber mosaic virus? Since there was no evidence of disease on the other cultivars of cucumbers, yet all of the of Chelsea Prize hybrid plants showed evidence of the disease, is it possible that the seeds were infected? I still have some of the seeds from this packet.
| <Clarify> | Have you had the affected plants tested for cucumber mosaic virus to confirm the diagnosis? Additionally, were there any changes in environmental conditions, such as watering or temperature, during your absence that might have contributed to the symptoms? | 1 | [
"affected plants: Chelsea Prize hybrid cucumbers and one grow bag with cantaloupes",
"unaffected plants: Marketmore and Spacemaster cucumbers",
"symptoms: yellowing of the leaves, curling and drooping, stunted fruit",
"planting method: 3 transplants started indoors, 2 direct seeded",
"locations: various raised beds and a fabric pot",
"seed source: same packet for all Chelsea Prize cucumbers",
"action taken: affected plants were removed and discarded"
] | [
"confirmation of cucumber mosaic virus through testing",
"details on environmental conditions (e.g., watering, temperature) during the user's absence",
"any pest presence or activity observed"
] | |||
#834333 | user: Hello, Jordan Poplar luckily had a leaf fall onto the ground and we observed a sticky substance and white aphids stuck to the leaf. In looking around there is a sticky substance in all the plants that live below the Tulip Poplar. This tree has been here for many years and I have not seen this before. It may have occurred but washed off. Do I need to be concerned? Thank you, Reese
| <Respond> | The sticky substance you are observing is likely honeydew, which is a sugary liquid excreted by aphids and other sap-sucking insects. The presence of aphids on your Tulip Poplar can lead to this sticky residue, which can then fall onto plants below. While aphids themselves are not usually a serious threat to mature trees, they can cause sooty mold to develop on the honeydew, which can affect the appearance of the plants below. To manage the aphid population, you can consider introducing natural predators like ladybugs or using insecticidal soap. It's also important to monitor the tree for any signs of stress or damage. If the infestation seems severe or the tree's health appears compromised, consulting with a local arborist or extension service might be beneficial. | 1 | [
"tree type: Tulip Poplar",
"symptoms: sticky substance and white aphids on leaves",
"observation: sticky substance on plants below the tree",
"duration: not observed in previous years"
] | [] | |||
#841373 | user: I have about12 azaleas in my backyard, age about 4 years, one just planted this spring. All of them a re losing an excessive amount of leaves and seems to have various issues. In the past I sprayed them with a Neem oil solution to get rid of the black spots and mildew. This year it seems to be something different altogether. If you need more detailed photos of the leaves/plants please let me know. Any suggestions for treatment are much appreciated.
| <Clarify> | Could you describe the current symptoms in more detail, and let me know about any recent changes in the environment or care of the azaleas? Also, could you provide more information about the soil conditions, watering schedule, and sunlight exposure? This will help in diagnosing the issue more accurately. | 1 | [
"number_of_azaleas: 12",
"age_of_azaleas: 4 years, one planted this spring",
"symptoms: excessive leaf loss, various issues",
"past_treatment: Neem oil for black spots and mildew"
] | [
"current symptoms description",
"environmental conditions (e.g., soil, watering, sunlight)",
"any recent changes in care or environment",
"details from attached images"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#836098 | user: I noticed little white bubble-like clinging things on the underside of my ochra plants and some darkening of some portions of the leaves. Is this a problem? What to do if so?
thanks,
David
| <Respond> | The white bubble-like clinging things on the underside of your okra leaves are likely a type of scale insect or possibly mealybugs. These pests can cause damage to the plant by sucking sap, which might also lead to the darkening of the leaves. To address this issue, you can try the following steps:
1. **Manual Removal**: Gently wipe the affected areas with a cloth or sponge soaked in soapy water to remove the insects.
2. **Insecticidal Soap**: Apply insecticidal soap or neem oil, which are effective against soft-bodied insects like scales and mealybugs.
3. **Pruning**: If the infestation is severe, consider pruning heavily infested leaves to prevent the spread.
4. **Regular Monitoring**: Keep an eye on your plants regularly to catch any new infestations early.
Ensure you follow the instructions on any product you use and test it on a small area first to ensure it doesn't harm the plant. If the problem persists, you might want to consult a local extension service for further advice. | 1 | [
"symptoms: White bubble-like clinging things on the underside of okra leaves and darkening of some leaf portions."
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#838829 | user: Can you identify the disease and treatment recommendations for my dwarf redhaven peach trees? They are 4 years old. They started with peach leaf curl which I always treat early with copper spray but then problems got worse due to a pest. Most of the peaches are affected but still some good looking ones still attached.
expert: Was there a spray applied within the last month? The spotting on the leaves look like a chemical burn. The puckered fruit and the spots on the fruit might be tarnished plant bug or another bug with a piercing mouthpart.. I invite you to reply with the spray program, if any. Please give chemical, amount, and date. Thanks.
user: Thank you for your reply. I did spray the trees approximately 3weeks ago with citrus fruit and nut orchard spray by Bonide. It is for insects and fungal disease. It was mixed 4 oz to one gallon. I sprayed at the end of the day; not in the sun. Sent from my iPhone On Jul 4, 2023, at 9:55 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Based on the information provided, it seems like your peach trees are dealing with both fungal and insect issues. The puckered fruit and spots could indeed be caused by pests like the tarnished plant bug or similar insects. The Bonide citrus fruit and nut orchard spray you used is a broad-spectrum product that targets both fungal and insect problems, which is generally suitable for your situation. However, for more targeted control, you might consider using a specific insecticide for piercing-sucking insects if they are confirmed to be the primary issue. For fungal issues, continuing with a copper-based fungicide early in the season is a good practice for managing peach leaf curl. Additionally, ensure good cultural practices such as proper pruning and sanitation to reduce pest and disease pressure. If you continue to see issues, consider consulting with a local extension service for more tailored advice. | 3 | [
"tree age: 4 years",
"initial disease: peach leaf curl",
"treatment for peach leaf curl: copper spray",
"recent spray: citrus fruit and nut orchard spray by Bonide",
"spray details: 4 oz to one gallon, applied 3 weeks ago",
"time of spray: end of the day",
"current issues: puckered fruit, spots on fruit, possible pest with piercing mouthpart"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#874911 | user: What’s wrong with my tomato plants? I’m not sure if it’s sun scald, insect damage, nutrient deficiency, or a mosaic virus. It only started appearing in the last few weeks, after fruit was set. I noticed black mite-like bugs on the pictured plants (but not other plants) earlier in the season and took care of them with a strong hose blast and neem oil. The current problem starts with a fading, rust colored or speckled bleaching of the leaves, which progresses to yellowing, wilting of the affected leaves, and the eventual death of the affected leaves. Stems seem fine. I planted these tomatoes from seed with new soil this year in a pot I had used last year. Variety is burpee veranda red hybrid, unsure if TMV/ToMV resistant. I have similar leaf discoloration on zucchini, marigolds, and dahlias, but peppers, cornflowers, and cucumbers unaffected so far. All plants being grown in fairly close proximity in separate containers. I use neem oil as a pesticide and miracle grow powder (mixes into water) fertilizer. Do I need to destroy affected plants? They don’t seem that sick, but I don’t know if this is an early sign of a bigger issue.
user: Here are more pictures of affected tomatoes:
user: Here is a neighboring tomato plant in a different pot. It seems less affected.
user: Nearby squash (one normal leaf, one affected)
user: Affected marigolds next to the squash:
user: Affected squash:
user: Tomato on other side of deck (~6’ away?) that is discolored but has not experienced leaf death
| <Clarify> | Can you confirm if the Burpee veranda red hybrid tomatoes are resistant to TMV/ToMV? Additionally, could you provide details on your watering practices and any recent changes in environmental conditions, such as temperature or humidity? | 7 | [
"symptoms: Fading, rust-colored or speckled bleaching of the leaves, yellowing, wilting, and eventual death of leaves. Stems seem fine.",
"timing: Symptoms appeared after fruit was set.",
"pest history: Black mite-like bugs were present earlier in the season and treated with a hose blast and neem oil.",
"plant variety: Burpee veranda red hybrid, unsure if TMV/ToMV resistant.",
"other affected plants: Zucchini, marigolds, and dahlias show similar leaf discoloration.",
"unaffected plants: Peppers, cornflowers, and cucumbers.",
"growing conditions: Plants are in separate containers, grown in close proximity, using new soil and miracle grow powder fertilizer."
] | [
"Confirmation of TMV/ToMV resistance in the tomato variety.",
"Details on watering practices and frequency.",
"Any recent changes in environmental conditions (e.g., temperature, humidity).",
"Presence of any other pests or signs of disease on the plants."
] | |||
#868519 | user: I have a Japanese Maple on the west side of my home beside knockout roses. The roses appear to have Rose Rosette Disease (RRD). They look like internet pictures of roses with RRD. Now the Japanese Maple looks diseased. Based on internet advice, I assume the roses can't be saved. Is there any treatment you can recommend to save the Japanese Maple?
| <Clarify> | Could you describe the specific symptoms you are observing on the Japanese Maple, such as leaf spots, discoloration, or wilting? Additionally, have there been any recent changes in the care or environment of the tree that might have contributed to its current condition? | 1 | [
"location of the Japanese Maple: west side of the home",
"proximity to diseased roses: beside knockout roses with Rose Rosette Disease",
"user's assumption: roses can't be saved",
"symptoms: appears to have a fungal disease",
"images provided: #868519_0.jpg, #868519_1.jpg, #868519_2.jpg"
] | [
"specific symptoms observed on the Japanese Maple",
"any recent changes in care or environment",
"confirmation of fungal disease from images"
] | |||
#885557 | user: I have a peach tree that was planted in 2020 as a bare rot transplant. Every year since then it has leafed out and for the last 2 years in flowered. Last year there were a number of small peaches, this year only one or two. Additionally the leaves withered (see picture) and fell prematurely. I have not used any spray but I’m wondering if maybe I should. Can you help me tell what’s happening here? Is there anything I can do to improve the health of this tree or is it toast? Thank you.
| <Respond> | Based on your description, it does sound like your peach tree might be suffering from peach leaf curl, which is a common fungal disease that can cause leaves to wither and drop prematurely. Applying a copper fungicide in the fall, after the leaves have dropped, is indeed a recommended treatment. It's also important to ensure that the tree is well-fertilized, as a lack of nutrients can contribute to poor health and fruit production. Consider applying a balanced fertilizer in the spring to support new growth. Additionally, ensure that the tree is receiving adequate water, especially during dry spells, and that it is planted in well-draining soil. Pruning to improve air circulation can also help reduce disease incidence. If these measures do not improve the tree's health, it may be worth consulting a local arborist for further evaluation. | 1 | [
"peach_tree_age: 5 years in the ground",
"leaf_and_fruit_issues: Leaves withered and fell prematurely, very few peaches",
"fertilization: Not fertilized in a couple of years",
"disease_suspected: Peach leaf curl",
"treatment_considered: Copper fungicide application in fall"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#888567 | user: Hello,
I have a volunteer mystery rose that appears to be some form of climber. It is so unwieldy, I am uncertain what to do with the 10' cane to prepare for winter. For the crown, I plan to mound dry leaves about 6" high, holding them in with a hot cap I made from a 5-gallon black container. I also thought I could put a jumbo tomato cage over it, cover that with burlap, and then stuff more leaves into the funnel. Please let me know if this sounds like a good plan or not.
Meanwhile, regarding the cane, is it too late in the season for any cut to cure before winter? Right now the cane is pegged to a trellis. I don't think I can get it to lie down to the ground without snapping the cane, and the ground isn't clear to receive it, as it's in a small perennial bed. Should I tie the cane to the tomato cage, or simply prune it immediately, and if so, to what height now, and then again to what height in the spring? Please advise how to proceed.
The entire plant is a mystery. I used to have a Westerland in that site, but it was so feeble I removed it several years ago, as I am in a condo and very limited for garden space. Last year a rose grew in that same area, but never bloomed, so I couldn't do an ID. That first year it grew in a shrub form about knee high. From the shape and leaflets it appears to be a cultivar and not R. multiflora. What else would grow with such vigor than a scrap of rootstock? Maybe it is one of the other standard rootstock roses like Dr. Huey.
This year the same thing happened, but it also produced this one cane that grew about 10' tall, and appears to be a pillar rose. Or is simply a long sucker? Could it be Westerland that grew from scraps of a stem? It can't be from scraps of the Westerland roots, because it was grafted. And if it never was vigorous before, why would it be vigorous now?
Any insight you have would be greatly appreciated. I have limited sun, so it hasn't bloomed yet. Or maybe it just takes a few years for a volunteer to bloom. Regardless, thank you for any insight you can provide.
| <Respond> | Your plan for winter protection sounds quite thorough and should help protect the rose's crown from harsh winter conditions. Using dry leaves and a hot cap, along with a tomato cage and burlap, is a good strategy to insulate the plant. Regarding the cane, since it's already late in the season, it might be best to avoid heavy pruning as cuts may not heal properly before winter. Instead, consider tying the cane to the tomato cage for support. In the spring, you can assess the cane's condition and prune it back to a manageable height if necessary. As for the identity of the rose, it could indeed be a vigorous rootstock like Dr. Huey, especially if it hasn't bloomed yet. If you can find the hangtag or contact the nursery, that might provide more insight into whether it was grafted or own-root. Keep an eye on it next season for any blooms that might help with identification. | 1 | [
"rose type: mystery climber, possibly a rootstock like Dr. Huey",
"current condition: 10' cane, pegged to a trellis, in a small perennial bed",
"winter preparation plan: mound dry leaves, use a hot cap, jumbo tomato cage, and burlap",
"concerns: whether to prune the cane, tie it, or let it be"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#882435 | user: I’m wondering what is causing this to happen to my grass. I did put down (twice) bug killer and (twice) a fungicide. Any idea?
expert: Is this grass in full sun? Do you know what kind of grass it is? Some grasses do well in shade and burn in full sun. I lost a tree and the shade loving grass did what you are looking at. I seeded in full sun grass and it is doing fine. Many lawns look poor this time of year due to lack of water.
user: Thank you for responding. The grass is in sunshine most of the day. It always has been. I have an irrigation system so it gets water. The grasses are blue grass, Bermuda and bentgrass I believe. I work hard to have a nice lawn, which I enjoy doing. This situation has me frustrated. I wish there was a company that would come to my house and look at my yard and give me advice as to what I need to do to accomplish what I want my yard to look like. I would gladly pay for this advice. The yard care companies want to do the work themselves, I enjoy working in my yard.
| <Clarify> | Could you describe the specific symptoms or issues you're observing with your grass? Also, when and how did you apply the bug killer and fungicide? Any recent changes in your lawn care routine or environment that might have affected the grass? | 3 | [
"grass_types: blue grass, Bermuda, bentgrass",
"sun_exposure: full sun most of the day",
"irrigation: has an irrigation system",
"user's preference: enjoys working in the yard and wants advice rather than a service"
] | [
"specific symptoms or issues observed in the grass",
"timing and method of applying bug killer and fungicide",
"any recent changes in lawn care practices or environment",
"soil condition and pH level"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#826410 | user: We discovered some white hard bumps on the bottom of redbud tree we planted last year. Please help identify what this is if possible and if there is some action we should take.
expert: These remind us of either a type of cocoon of perhaps a type of fungal growth. We can't tell from your photo- how large are they, and are they firm/hard? Dent to the touch? Christine
user: These are firm and the size of a blue bird egg. They seem to have a webbing all over them…we didn’t press hard, but no dent.
user: These are firm and the size of a blue bird egg. They seem to have a webbing all over them…we didn’t press hard, but no dent. The tree is young and probably only 1 1/2 inches thick…the photo is zoomed in.
| <Respond> | Based on your description, the white hard bumps with webbing on your redbud tree could potentially be insect egg cases or a type of gall. The firmness and size suggest they might be insect-related, possibly from a type of wasp or moth. If they are indeed egg cases, they may hatch into larvae that could affect the tree. I recommend carefully removing one of the bumps and examining it further or consulting with a local arborist or extension service for a precise identification. If they are galls, they are generally not harmful to the tree, but if you notice any decline in the tree's health, further investigation would be warranted. Regular monitoring and maintaining the tree's health through proper watering and care can help mitigate any potential issues. | 4 | [
"appearance: White hard bumps with webbing, size of a bluebird egg, firm, no dent when pressed",
"location: Bottom of a young redbud tree",
"tree details: Planted last year, approximately 1 1/2 inches thick"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#881091 | user: Located in Burnsville. My large 25 + year maple tree has turned color and dropping leaves. This started about mid-July and is now full color. My maple on the other side of the yard is unaffected.
expert: Thank you for writing. Please send me a couple more pictures. One of the base of this tree where it enters the ground. One looking at the tree from the opposite side of the tree. One looking into that split in the large offshoot on the left. (Incidentally, I am very impressed with the canopy thinning on the left on that offshoot. I am not sure that the left offshoot is structurally sound.) I also worry about the possibility of heart rot entering the trunk of that tree from the split near the bottom. chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://extension.unl.edu/statewide/buffalo/Heart%20Rot%20in%20Trees%20November%2015%202014.pdf Maples on the same property can change color at different times because of differences in soil, light, watering. However in this case, I urge you to have an arborist evaluate the health and structural stability of this tree. https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/how-hire-tree-care-professional
user: Thank you. I will get more photos. I forgot about a crab apple that is also doing poorly. It started out fine but then started dropping leaves late June. It is pretty thin now. I will get a couple of photos of it. Thank you again. Michael Johnson Sent from Smartphone. From: ask=<personal data hidden> <ask=<personal data hidden>> on behalf of Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2024 10:11:44 PM To: Michael Johnson <<personal data hidden>> Subject: Re: Maple Tree In Full Color (#0151009)
user: Thank you for your help. I have an arborist scheduled for mid-September, the earliest I could get someone. I will let you know what they have determined. In the mean time I have attached additional photos for your assessment. Michael Johnson Sent from Smartphone. From: ask=<personal data hidden> <ask=<personal data hidden>> on behalf of Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2024 10:11:44 PM To: Michael Johnson <<personal data hidden>> Subject: Re: Maple Tree In Full Color (#0151009)
user: Hello. I sent additional photos earlier but did not add comments. You mentioned lack of canopy on the left side. It was filled in the first part of the summer but then started dropping leaves. Now is seems to be losing less leaves but has become very colorful. I have noticed some non-maple trees around me yellowing and dropping leaves, but not aggressively. There is a maple in the next yard that had completely turned but not dropping many leaves. I have attached a photo of that tree. My arborist is scheduled 6 weeks out. I would like to do something to help the tree now but I don't know what, and if it would make a difference this year. You you recommend iron, nitrogen, something ? Thank you. Michael Johnson Sent from Smartphone. From: ask=<personal data hidden> <ask=<personal data hidden>> on behalf of Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2024 10:11:44 PM To: Michael Johnson <<personal data hidden>> Subject: Re: Maple Tree In Full Color (#0151009)
| <Respond> | Thank you for the additional information and photos. Given the symptoms you've described, it seems like the tree is under significant stress. While waiting for the arborist's visit, you can take a few steps to support the tree. Ensure the tree is adequately watered, especially during dry spells, as water stress can exacerbate leaf drop and color change. Avoid fertilizing with nitrogen at this time, as it can stimulate new growth that the tree may not be able to support. Instead, focus on maintaining consistent soil moisture. Applying a layer of mulch around the base of the tree can help retain soil moisture and regulate temperature. Avoid piling mulch against the trunk. If you suspect nutrient deficiencies, a soil test can help determine if specific amendments like iron are needed, but it's best to wait for the arborist's assessment before making significant changes. I hope these steps help stabilize the tree until the arborist can provide a more detailed evaluation. | 5 | [
"location: Burnsville",
"tree type: Maple",
"tree age: 25+ years",
"symptoms: Early leaf color change and drop, canopy thinning",
"arborist visit: Scheduled for mid-September",
"user's request: Advice on immediate actions (e.g., iron, nitrogen)"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#884241 | user: I would appreciate plant care, specifically with regards to pruning a Hydrangea plant which has a lot of new growth (wood and flowers) and severely flops and droops. How and when should I prune the plant back to obtain a better shape and to help eliminate the flopping to my Hydrangea plant.
Thank you for your time and consideration in helping me.
Kye Rankin<personal data hidden>
| <Respond> | Pruning your Hydrangea can indeed help with the flopping issue. Since your plant faces south and receives a lot of sunlight, it is likely growing vigorously, which can contribute to the flopping. Pruning by about one-third of its size is a good approach. For most Hydrangeas, the best time to prune is late winter or early spring before new growth begins. This timing allows you to shape the plant and remove any weak or crossing branches, which can help improve its structure and reduce flopping. Additionally, consider staking the plant or providing support if the stems are still unable to hold up the blooms after pruning. Ensure that you are also watering appropriately, as overwatering can sometimes contribute to drooping. If you find that the plant is still struggling, you might consider moving it to a location with slightly less intense sunlight, but this should be a last resort if other methods do not help. | 1 | [
"plant_type: Hydrangea",
"issue: flopping and drooping due to new growth",
"location: faces south and gets a lot of sunlight",
"user's consideration: pruning by 1/3 of its size"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#833920 | user: I have a hop vine, about 8 years old, grown for decoration and trained horizontally on wires on the west side of my house. It has never had any disease problems in the past but I was out of town last week and returned to find it developing brown spots and patches on older. lower leaves. It is watered by a soaker hose and grown in a large nursery pot with the bottom cut out. Can you tell me what the problem most likely is?
expert: Thank you, Jamie for your question to "Ask Extension". The pictures that you provided were excellent but inconclusive. I have tried to match them with all pest and fungal and viral diseases in hops without success. Since you stated that this is only on older growth and happened in a very short time period I suspect that this might be some kind of chemical (herbicide) drift. I would be very interested in knowing if any future growth may have similar damage, including new growth and the cones. I have provided you with a link to the extensive website that I referenced for my response. http://ippc2.orst.edu/hop/HopHandbook2010.pdf I hope that this information is useful. As always Happy Gardening.
user: Kevin- Thanks for the response. As far as I know, there has been no herbicide sprayed anywhere near the hop vine and it's pretty isolated from any possible drift but I'll keep an eye on the new leaves and cones and report further damage. Thanks for the info link, also.JanOn Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 8:30 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
user: This is in response to Kevin K (Benton County)'s answer on 6/7 concerning brown spots on my Hop leaves......(that thread was closed.) Kevin:I had found this earlier on the Michigan State University Extension website (but can't find exact link again! - there was more info on it) There was a photo VERY similar to the leaves on my hop and they labeled it as Downy Mildew!!"As the season progresses, symptoms may include stunted side-arm growth, tip die-back and cone discoloration. The fuzzy, visible growth of downy mildew is not always present and should not be relied upon as the sole indicator of whether infection is present."That was the closest I could find to an explanation.....it's still a mystery but some of the newer leaves seem to be showing the same symptoms, BUT---they look like they may all be originating from the same bine! I am going to TRY to remove that bine and it's off-shoots and see if the problem continues.JanOn Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 8:30 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Based on the information you've provided and the similarity to the symptoms of downy mildew, it seems plausible that your hop vine might be affected by this disease. Downy mildew can indeed cause the symptoms you're observing, such as brown spots and patches, and it can spread to new growth. Your plan to remove the affected bine and its off-shoots is a good step to prevent further spread. After removal, monitor the plant closely for any new symptoms. Additionally, ensure good air circulation around the plant and avoid overhead watering to reduce humidity, which can exacerbate mildew issues. If the problem persists, consider consulting a local extension service for further diagnosis and treatment options. Keep us updated on the progress! | 4 | [
"plant: hop vine",
"age: 8 years",
"location: west side of house",
"growth pattern: trained horizontally on wires",
"watering method: soaker hose",
"container: large nursery pot with bottom cut out",
"symptoms: brown spots and patches on older, lower leaves",
"potential cause considered: chemical drift",
"new symptoms: some newer leaves showing similar symptoms, possibly originating from the same bine",
"user action: planning to remove affected bine and off-shoots"
] | [
"confirmation of downy mildew presence",
"results after removing affected bine"
] | |||
#876303 | user: Hello, Peyton of our laurels are dying off. I'm afraid that it may be from drought stress from not enough water. I realized last week that the soil under them was arid. I'm not sure that it isn't disease either. I've had some wilting then die branches randomly over the years. I've attached some pictures.
expert: Hello, Skyler, Tell me more about your skip Cherry Laurel. It appears it is growing in direct sun. How much sun does it get every day? I can't see from the photo if the dying portion is a branch or the entire shrub. When you noticed it wilting, did you water it? What is the ground conditions of the other laurels to the left and right? Are they wilting as well? Can you take more photos and send close ups? Are you seeing anything that looks like fungal spots or other noticeable marks on the leaves (check the back of the leaves as well) or stems and branches? Look closely to the branches. Do you see any damage to the stems on the bottom side? I saw Cicada damage on a limb tip earlier today that was not noticed by the home owner. I showed the homeowner the damage to one of their foundation plants next to their home that looks similar to what is pictured in you photos you provided. r/mart
user: Good morning,They are in direct morning sun until about noon, then mainly shade. I have noticed some wilting of individual branches over the years, but not to this extent or die off like this. I've always just cut them out. I'm not sure what to look for as far as fungal spots. I see tiny black spots on the backs of the leaves. I took some close ups of those. I did not see any Cicadas around the shrub area. Here are more pictures. I've also included one from down the row that is beginning to show some stress as well. We are so sad to see these dying. I worked so hard 4 years ago to install these for a hedge and now it looks like we will loose them. I have put about 50 gallons of drip irrigation on these in that last week as soon as I realized they were so dry. I'm not sure if I should water more. Thanks, Cameron T EasterlingEasterling Fine Homes (o)<personal data hidden> (f)<personal data hidden> easterlingfinehomes.com AccreditedBuilder (January '14) nchba.org Certified Green Professional (September '14) Master Certified Green Professional (October '16) nahb.org On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 2:41 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
expert: First, keep wAtering them. I think it prudent for me to make a home visit. I see what appears to be a canker which suggest pathogen. I can take a physical sample to the NCSU plant, disease and insect clinic for analysis there is a $20 fee if you choose this route. You pay the lab after they provide a diagnosis i am the crops and hort extension agent forOrange County nc. If you decide you want me to conduct a home visit, call me during the work day on my cell to set up an appointment. . My cell is 804-3-8-7493. R/mart
user: Good morning. Just checking to see if you received our response? Thanks, Cameron T EasterlingEasterling Fine Homes (o)<personal data hidden> (f)<personal data hidden> easterlingfinehomes.com AccreditedBuilder (January '14) nchba.org Certified Green Professional (September '14) Master Certified Green Professional (October '16) nahb.org On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 2:41 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
user: Hi, Elliot,I did not see this earlier. I tried calling your cell but I think there is a number missing. Can you please send that again? Thanks, Cameron T EasterlingEasterling Fine Homes (o)<personal data hidden> (f)<personal data hidden> easterlingfinehomes.com AccreditedBuilder (January '14) nchba.org Certified Green Professional (September '14) Master Certified Green Professional (October '16) nahb.org On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 8:41 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
user: Hey Mart,Thanks again for coming out to look at the laurels. We got about 2" of rain and I watered them with another 15 gallons or so, so they should be happy. They are still showing stress with further weakening branches. Hoping that goes away soon. I found at the base of the first shrub to die bore holes and I took pictures (attached) hoping they are not Greater Peachborer. It appears there might have been some sort of paint applied if that is not natural and maybe that was something that happened at the nursery. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks, Cameron T EasterlingEasterling Fine Homes (o)<personal data hidden> (f)<personal data hidden> easterlingfinehomes.com AccreditedBuilder (January '14) nchba.org Certified Green Professional (September '14) Master Certified Green Professional (October '16) nahb.org On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 8:41 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
user: Hey Mart,Thanks again for coming out to look at the laurels. We got about 2" of rain and I watered them with another 15 gallons or so, so they should be happy. They are still showing stress with further weakening branches. Hoping that goes away soon. I found at the base of the first shrub to die bore holes and I took pictures (attached) hoping they are not Greater Peachborer. It appears there might have been some sort of paint applied if that is not natural and maybe that was something that happened at the nursery. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks, Cameron T EasterlingEasterling Fine Homes (o)<personal data hidden> (f)<personal data hidden> easterlingfinehomes.com AccreditedBuilder (January '14) nchba.org Certified Green Professional (September '14) Master Certified Green Professional (October '16) nahb.org On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 8:41 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
expert: Hello, Skyler, Did you want me to take the trunk into the lab for analysis? The black color could be a fungus. I do not think it is paint. I did read Cherry Laurels under stress are susceptible to borers. Have you found any other bore holes? Not sure there is much you can do for treatment. Here are two articles I found about the borers. https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/american-plum-borer-in-ornamentals https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/greater-peachtree-borer If you want me to submit the sample to the lab, there is a $20 fee associated with the submission. You pay after they provide results directly to the lab.
user: Hey Mart, I dropped a few branches and that trunk sample at pathology this morning. Hoping to hear back soon. Thanks, Cameron T EasterlingEasterling Fine Homes (o) <personal data hidden> (f) <personal data hidden> (m) <personal data hidden> easterlingfinehomes.com On Jul 15, 2024, at 1:50 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Hello, Skyler, it typically takes about 1-2 weeks to receive results from the pathology lab, but this can vary depending on their current workload. In the meantime, continue to monitor the laurels closely. Ensure they are receiving adequate water, especially during dry spells, and keep an eye out for any new symptoms or changes. Once the pathology results are back, we can determine the best course of action based on their findings. If you notice any significant changes or have further concerns, feel free to reach out. | 10 | [
"location: Direct morning sun until noon, then mainly shade",
"symptoms: Wilting, die-off, tiny black spots on leaves, bore holes at the base",
"actions taken: Increased watering, submitted samples to pathology",
"potential causes: Drought stress, fungal infection, borer infestation"
] | [
"Pathology results"
] | |||
#841598 | user: There is a strange white substance on my azaleas that were just planted this year. There are also little tiny white jumping fuzzy bugs. Some of the leaves were getting rust spots as well. Are these related? We are curious as to what our next steps are to protect the azaleas.
| <Respond> | The symptoms you're describing on your azaleas suggest a couple of potential issues. The white substance and tiny white jumping fuzzy bugs are likely due to an infestation of whiteflies or possibly woolly aphids. These pests can cause damage to the plant by sucking sap from the leaves, which might also lead to the rust spots you're seeing. To address this, you can start by spraying the plants with a strong stream of water to dislodge the pests. Follow up with an insecticidal soap or neem oil, which are effective against these types of insects. Ensure you cover the undersides of the leaves where these pests often hide. As for the rust spots, they could be a sign of a fungal infection, possibly exacerbated by the stress from the pest infestation. Make sure your azaleas are planted in well-draining soil and avoid overhead watering to reduce humidity around the leaves. If the problem persists, consider using a fungicide specifically labeled for rust on azaleas. Regular monitoring and early intervention are key to managing these issues effectively. | 1 | [
"symptoms: strange white substance, tiny white jumping fuzzy bugs, rust spots on leaves",
"plant: azaleas",
"planting year: this year"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#829655 | user: I have one apple tree, a hybrid with four kinds of apples. It's about 10 feet tall. I planted it three years ago. This is the first time I've seen any bugs on it. Photos are included. Most of them appear to be on a top branch, but these were on a lower branch. Also, the apple production seems to be lower this year than in the past. Is my tree in danger? I don't use pesticides in my yard. Please advise!
| <Respond> | Rosy apple aphids can cause damage to apple trees, particularly by distorting leaves and reducing fruit production, but they are unlikely to kill a mature tree. Pruning the affected branches can help reduce the aphid population, but it's important to do so carefully to avoid unnecessary stress to the tree. Additionally, you can encourage natural predators like ladybugs and lacewings, which feed on aphids, by planting companion plants that attract them. Regularly monitoring your tree and removing any heavily infested leaves can also help manage the aphid population. Since you prefer not to use pesticides, these integrated pest management strategies can be effective in keeping the aphid population under control. | 1 | [
"type_of_tree: hybrid apple tree with four kinds of apples",
"tree_age: three years",
"tree_height: 10 feet",
"pest_identified: rosy apple aphids",
"symptoms: clump of curled leaves, lower apple production",
"user_preference: no pesticides"
] | [] | |||
#838680 | user: I have 1-1 1/2 inch holes all over my yard,( hundreds) a few have raised lined leading to it , but not all. Several plants have been eaten from the roots. Please help I’m at wits end, can’t even really walk safely for fear of injury. I am a senior citizen. Thank you
| <Respond> | Based on the information provided, it sounds like you might be dealing with voles or possibly moles. Voles are known for eating plant roots and creating small holes, while moles primarily create tunnels and are insectivores, but their tunnels can disrupt plant roots. Since the activity is at night and you haven't seen any animals, voles are a likely culprit. To manage this issue, you can try the following steps:
1. **Trapping**: Use vole-specific traps placed near the holes. Since you're concerned about catching squirrels, ensure the traps are set at night and removed during the day.
2. **Exclusion**: Install underground barriers around your garden beds to prevent voles from accessing the roots of your plants.
3. **Repellents**: There are commercial vole repellents available that can be applied to your garden. These are usually based on castor oil and can deter voles from the area.
4. **Habitat Modification**: Reduce mulch and dense ground cover where voles might hide. Keep your lawn mowed and remove any debris that could provide shelter.
5. **Professional Help**: If the problem persists, consider contacting a pest control professional who can provide more targeted solutions.
I hope these suggestions help you regain control of your garden. Please let me know if you have any further questions or need additional assistance. | 1 | [
"hole size: 1-1 1/2 inch",
"affected plants: bearded Iris, black-eyed Susans",
"activity time: night",
"duration of problem: second year",
"no visible animals: True",
"concern about trapping squirrels: True"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#824615 | user: I am trying to identify and determine how to control the grass seen in the attached photos. It seems to be a type of invasive grass, as it has been spreading around my lawn during the last few years. I have a number of patches similar to the one in the photos. The grass grows faster than the rest of my lawn in early spring. Once the temperatures get into the 80s and beyond, this grass will no longer grow well, and starts to mat down and turn a bit brown. It also has a sticky matted nature in this phase. I have tried a few selective herbicides, but none seem to affect it, I assume because it is a grass.
Can you help me identify this grass and do you have any recommendations for controlling it? Let me know if you need more information or additional photos. Thanks!
| <Clarify> | Could you provide a detailed description of the grass blades and seed heads, as well as the specific selective herbicides you have tried? Additionally, any information on the soil type and environmental conditions of your lawn would be helpful. | 1 | [
"grass characteristics: Grows faster than the rest of the lawn in early spring, stops growing well in temperatures above 80°F, turns brown and sticky when matted.",
"attempted control methods: Selective herbicides, Round-up, reseeding.",
"additional issue: Onion grass control."
] | [
"Detailed description of the grass blades and seed heads.",
"Specific herbicides previously used.",
"Soil and environmental conditions of the lawn."
] | |||
#837767 | user: What is this insect/fungus on the leaves of my Beech Tree (European, I believe)? Is it detrimental to the tree and if so, what can I do to help get rid of it?
| <Clarify> | Could you provide clear images of the insect or fungus on the leaves? Additionally, are there any other symptoms on the tree, such as leaf discoloration or wilting? | 1 | [
"tree_type: European Beech",
"symptoms: white insect and possibly eggs on the leaves, initially appeared like cottonwood shedding",
"environment: much taller tree planted to the west"
] | [
"clear images or descriptions of the insect/fungus",
"confirmation if the white patches are still present",
"any other symptoms observed on the tree"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#838576 | user: Hello-
I have tried over the last year to make my yard far more bee friendly by planting trees/plants that will be welcoming. I am having a particular issue with the dogwoods… several planted in November have already died and some that were looking healthy are now having issues. Please help!
| <Respond> | It sounds like your dogwoods might be suffering from root rot, which is common in clay soils that retain water. To check for root rot, you can use a soil moisture meter to measure moisture levels at different depths around the root ball. If the deeper soil is consistently wet, it could indicate poor drainage and potential root rot. To help the plants recover, consider improving drainage by amending the soil with organic matter or creating raised beds. Additionally, ensure that the trees are not overwatered and that there is adequate space between them for air circulation. If root rot is confirmed, you may need to prune affected roots and apply a fungicide specifically designed for root rot. Regularly monitor the soil moisture and adjust your watering schedule accordingly. | 1 | [
"user's intention: Make the yard bee-friendly by planting trees/plants.",
"problem: Dogwoods planted in November have died or are having issues.",
"soil condition: Surface soil near the root ball is dry, but the user is unsure about deeper soil conditions due to clay soil.",
"user's request: Tools or methods to check for root rot and help the plant recover."
] | [] | |||
#827982 | user: Hello, can you please tell me what these two plants are in the two photos and identify what problem i have with my rose in the third photo?The first photo,with yellow flower, is a ground cover. The second photo was a twig sent to me by the Arbor Day Foundation a couple of years ago and, i believe, is native to this area. The last photo shows leaves on my yellow rose bush. Thanks for any help. Dawn
| <Clarify> | Could you please provide more details or descriptions of the plants and the rose bush, as I currently don't have access to view the photos? This will help in identifying the plants and diagnosing the issue with the rose bush. | 1 | [
"first plant: ground cover with yellow flower",
"second plant: twig sent by Arbor Day Foundation, believed to be native",
"third plant: yellow rose bush with leaf issues"
] | [
"visual details of the plants and rose bush from the photos"
] | |||
#885196 | user: I’ve been noticing these issues on my Japanese Maple leaves for a while now and not sure if it’s due to warmer temperatures and/or lack of water or a disease like powdery mildew.
expert: Hi, Peyton is typical on lave leaf plants at the end of the summer, especially with the high heat and drought conditions we had this past season. Did you supplement irrigation this summer? If not, it would be a good idea to water periodically this fall to help it into winter. We are supposed to get some rain this week, but it has been a pretty dry month so far. You could give it a good soak today by laying a garden hose on a slow trickle at the base for about 20 minutes. You can review out Watering Trees and Shrubs page for further guidance. The leaves will fall off this autumn and should be fine next spring. Emily
user: I have irrigation for my yard, but I’m sure I probably could’ve watered my tree a lot more than I have. Do those type of trees require a lot of water? I wasn’t sure if I only need to use a water pitcher to be enough or if normally it needs a good hose soaking like you mentioned. ----------------------------------- Jason
expert: They are on the higher water requirement end but also just the LACE (sorry for the previous typo) leaf is delicate in full sun and the dark leaves soak up more heat. Are you feeling the soil after the lawn irrigation to see if its wet around the maple? It needs to be moist about 6 inches down to sufficiently reach the root area. If the irrigation is only running in the lawn for about 15 min. twice a week then it would not be enough. Are they spray heads? Is it reaching the tree? Are you doing it by hand or with a sprinkler? If you use a watering can or bucket, how much are you giving it?
user: Well irrigation only is for the lawn (don’t have anything in flower bed yet aside from my tree - trying to figure what to plant). And sometimes I’ll use hose and other a watering can when I have extra from watering parts of grass I seeded. With hose I’m not sure how deep it’s getting. Might only water it from 30 seconds to maybe a minute max?-----------------------------------Jason On Mon, Sep 16, 2024 at 11:18 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | Yes, letting a hose saturate the area around your Japanese Maple for 15-20 minutes is a good approach. This ensures that the water penetrates deeply enough to reach the root zone, which is typically about 6 inches deep. Since your irrigation system is only for the lawn, it's important to manually water the tree to meet its higher water requirements. Using a slow trickle from the hose will help the water soak in rather than run off. Additionally, consider checking the soil moisture by digging a small hole near the tree to ensure it's adequately moist. This will help your tree thrive, especially during dry periods. | 5 | [
"tree_type: Japanese Maple",
"current watering method: hose and watering can",
"irrigation system: only for lawn",
"watering duration: 30 seconds to 1 minute with hose",
"user's concern: unsure if current watering is sufficient"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#876121 | user: This False Indigo’s leaves began turning this gray green color a couple of weeks ago. By yesterday the leaves were falling, and the plant looks like it’s either dying or going dormant. It is planted between the walkway and the front porch, gets full sun in the morning, shade by 3 pm. This same thing happened last year, but later in the summer. Now the plant on the other side of the entrance to the porch is starting to have the same problem. Other Baptisias across the front of the house seem fine. Any suggestions about what be happening and what we can do about it?
| <Respond> | It sounds like you've identified spider mites as the cause of the problem with your False Indigo plants. Spider mites can cause the leaves to discolor and fall off, and they often thrive in hot, dry conditions. Cutting down the affected plants is a good step to help manage the infestation. In the future, you can try to prevent spider mite infestations by regularly inspecting your plants, especially during hot and dry periods, and by encouraging natural predators like predator mites. Additionally, keeping the plants well-watered and occasionally spraying them with water can help reduce mite populations. If the problem persists, you might consider using insecticidal soap or horticultural oil as a treatment. Thank you for your proactive approach, and I hope your plants recover well next season! | 1 | [
"plant: False Indigo (Baptisia)",
"symptoms: Leaves turning gray-green, falling off, plant looks like it's dying or going dormant",
"location: Planted between walkway and front porch, full sun in the morning, shade by 3 pm",
"timing: Symptoms started a couple of weeks ago, similar issue last year but later in summer",
"other plants: Other Baptisias across the front of the house seem fine",
"discovery: Mites with webbing found on a less damaged plant"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#829641 | user: We planted a 2 year old yoshino cherry tree, obtained from our local nursery, last spring. It seemed to have established well during its first season. We got ample blossoms a few weeks ago when it flowered but as it transitioned to leaves we noted that several branches seemed "withered" at the ends with no new leaves growing and signs of what appeared to be leaf buds having died. On some of these branches there are new leaves beginning to come on but only about 1/2 way out the length of the limb/branch and it is only about 25% of these "withered" branches displaying this behavior. This tree gets ample sun, about 6-8 hours a day, and we try to monitor the water it gets. Overall, this tree doesn't appear to be thriving and we are concerned something is wrong. Can you look at our pictures and help us determine what this tree needs to be healthy? It was hard to get good shots so we have fingers crossed that you can gleam something from what is there. Thank you!
expert: It's hard to tell from the photos what is affecting the tree, though we think we see (it's dark and hard to make out) old cicada egg-laying scars in some of the leafless branch tips. This would be expected for a tree of this age since the periodical cicadas causing this damage emerged a couple years ago. Some tree branches tolerated the damage but others succumbed to dieback either immediately or within a few years of the damage occurring. You can visit the linked page to see if the scarring looks similar to what might be on the underside of those leafless twigs. Regardless of the original cause, the branches lacking leaves at this point should be pruned off, down to wherever they meet live growth. Be sure to leave a short stub at the juncture instead of pruning branches off flush with the trunk (or with larger branches where they meet) as this type of wound will not seal-over well and could invite further dieback. The "proper pruning cuts" section of our tree pruning page illustrates where to make a cut so the branch collar (the zone of tissue that will close-over the cut) is undamaged. Root loss can also cause branch dieback, though it can be hard to trace-back when that might have occurred since the impacts aren't always immediate. Cherries are sensitive to over-watering and poorly-drain soils, though in that case we think the damage might have been more universally impacting all branches. In either case, we see the outlet of a roof downspout and what might be a sump pump outlet somewhat close to the tree (uphill from it?). Make sure this doesn't deposit too much water into that area during heavy rains, or else see if you can extend it further away from this site. To determine when the tree might need water based on weather, feel the soil around six inches deep. If it's becoming somewhat dry to the touch at that depth, watering will probably benefit the tree. If it's damp to the touch at that depth instead, watering is probably not needed yet. We can't see the tree's base in the photos, but if the lawn grows up to the trunk with no mulch barrier between them, we suggest using one. This will not only reduce the odds a mower or weed-whacker strike causes serious injury to the vital sapwood just under the bark, but will also reduce competition between the tree's roots and the lawn's. (As the tree matures and casts more shade, it will gradually cause the turf to thin-out anyway.) Mulch should only lie in a flat layer about two or three inches thick and should not touch the trunk base itself so it gets good air circulation. Planting depth is also critical for trees, even if impacts from improper depth don't manifest for years. The root flare, which is the point on the trunk base where major roots branch off, should sit just at the soil surface. If buried by even a few inches, it can lead to problems with root health that can cause canopy dieback. Ornamental/flowering cherries are unfortunately vulnerable to an array of potential problems, so overlapping issues might be contributing to its struggles. While possibly too young yet to have attracted the attention of a wood-boring insect, we can't rule it out, nor can we rule-out an infection by fungi or bacteria that kill or clog the water-transport tissues within the branches, both of which are factors that can cause them to wilt or have their leaf buds die so the branch can't leaf back out. You can explore our ornamental cherry diagnostic page for possible culprits to see if any symptoms seem to match. Little can be done about existing issues since pesticides in this situation are preventative, not curative, but since trees under stress tend to be more vulnerable to problems overall, monitoring the plant's watering needs and not fertilizing it (it will be getting plenty of nutrients if you fertilize the lawn yearly) is the best thing you can do for now. Time will tell if it's able to recover; at least ornamental cherries tend to grow relatively quickly when healthy, so it can catch up if whatever the problem is was temporary. Miri
user: Thank you for your email. After reviewing what you wrote and the link to the diagnostic page we are still a little lost. We do remember that around the time the tree was leafing out we got just over 3 inches of rain in about 48 hours. Is it possible the tree just got too much water at a critical time in it's spring development? We looked the tree over again closely and we don't think we see anything similar to the conditions on the diagnostic page. I'm attaching new pictures for your reference of both some braches, strange white dots on upper trunk and one larger spot on the lower trunk that appear questionable. The branches with die back are still flexible, should we still prune? We thank you for continuing to guide us on this, we truly hope we can help this tree recover and thrive. Sincerely,Heather
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the soil drainage conditions around the tree and whether there is mulch or grass directly around the tree base? Additionally, can you describe the strange white dots and the questionable spot on the trunk in more detail, or provide clearer images if possible? | 3 | [
"tree type: Yoshino cherry",
"age: 2 years old",
"location: local nursery",
"sun exposure: 6-8 hours a day",
"recent weather: over 3 inches of rain in 48 hours",
"symptoms: withered branch ends, no new leaves on some branches, strange white dots on upper trunk, questionable spot on lower trunk",
"branch condition: flexible branches with dieback"
] | [
"soil drainage conditions",
"presence of mulch or grass around the tree base",
"details about the strange white dots and questionable spot on the trunk",
"confirmation of cicada damage or other pest/disease symptoms"
] | |||
#832458 | user: Hello, can you explain why my backyard deck is so much dirtier this spring than any previous time and gets dirty so fast after I blow it off. The dirt and pollen and stuff that is falling off my trees seems "stickier" on the deck this year. The deck sits under a river birch tree and an ash tree. Is there something going on this spring that is different?
Thank you
| <Clarify> | Have there been any noticeable changes in the weather this spring compared to previous years, or have you applied any new treatments to the deck surface recently? Additionally, have you observed any changes in the health or behavior of the river birch or ash trees? | 1 | [
"deck location: under a river birch tree and an ash tree",
"issue: deck is dirtier and dirt/pollen is stickier than usual",
"timeframe: this spring"
] | [
"weather conditions this spring compared to previous years",
"any changes in tree health or behavior",
"any recent treatments or changes to the deck surface"
] | |||
#825296 | user: Hello-
I am hoping someone can identify this for me. There are small piles of these around many of my shrubs and trees. We have alot of squirrels, rabbits, voles, and deer around our home but this does not look like scat from an animal. We have a wild field behind our property. These look like seeds or pods from a plant or tree.They are very dry, almost like a sawdust composition. We do have Ash trees on our property but those seeds seem to be a different color and texture. Thank you for your assistance!
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the color and texture of the material? Additionally, have you noticed any changes in the health of your plants or any recent environmental changes in your garden? | 1 | [
"appearance: Small piles, dry, sawdust-like composition",
"location: Around shrubs and trees",
"wildlife presence: Squirrels, rabbits, voles, and deer",
"nearby vegetation: Ash trees",
"images: Attached"
] | [
"Detailed description of the material's color and texture",
"Any recent changes in the environment or garden",
"Confirmation if the material is affecting plant health"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#884466 | user: when we harvested our potatoes this year they were all covered with small raised spots and had some dark areas on them.
Do you know what would cause that, is it preventable and are they still good to eat?
picture attached
Thanks
| <Respond> | The symptoms you describe, with small raised spots and some dark areas, are consistent with a condition known as potato scab. Potato scab is caused by a soil-borne bacterium called Streptomyces scabies. It is more prevalent in alkaline soils and can be exacerbated by dry conditions during tuber formation.
To prevent potato scab in the future, consider the following strategies:
1. **Soil pH Management**: Aim to maintain a slightly acidic soil pH (around 5.0 to 5.5) as scab thrives in alkaline conditions.
2. **Crop Rotation**: Avoid planting potatoes in the same location for at least three years. Rotate with crops that are not susceptible to scab, such as corn or beans.
3. **Water Management**: Ensure consistent moisture levels during tuber development, as dry conditions can increase scab incidence.
4. **Resistant Varieties**: Consider planting scab-resistant potato varieties.
As for edibility, if the flesh inside the potatoes is clear and unaffected, they are generally safe to eat after peeling away the affected skin. However, if you notice any off-smells or unusual textures, it would be best to discard them. | 1 | [
"symptoms: small raised spots and dark areas on potatoes",
"flesh condition: clear",
"potential cause: potato scab"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#840105 | user: Hi I have some young Cascaras in my yard which are getting munched on my some caterpillar. Today when I looked closer I found a cute little caterpillar standing on a leaf in an erect position. When I tickled it a bit with my finger it seemed to extend two little horns on top of it's head like extending the eye stalks of a slug or snail. It thought that was pretty novel. Do you have any idea what kind of caterpillar this is and if it is in fact a slug mimic? I've never heard of that before if it is. Thank you for sharing your time and expertise! The siting is in Portland, Oregon near Powell Butte Nature Park.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide a detailed description of the caterpillar's color, markings, and size? Additionally, do you know what specific plant it is feeding on? | 1 | [
"location: Portland, Oregon near Powell Butte Nature Park",
"behavior: Caterpillar extends two little horns on top of its head when tickled",
"appearance: Caterpillar stands erect on a leaf",
"images: #840105_0.jpg, #840105_1.jpg, #840105_2.jpg"
] | [
"Detailed description of the caterpillar's color and markings",
"Size of the caterpillar",
"Any specific plant the caterpillar is feeding on"
] | |||
#841560 | user: Please help me determine what is eating my kohlrabi. Is it safe to eat if I cut the portion with the whole away?
Thanks.
Jacqui
user: Please help id the culprit. Additional leaf photo for question #0111486.
| <Clarify> | Could you describe the type of damage you are seeing on your kohlrabi leaves and bulbs? Are there any visible pests or signs like holes, slime trails, or frass? Additionally, where are you growing your kohlrabi, and what are the current weather conditions? | 2 | [
"crop: kohlrabi",
"user concern: identifying the pest and safety of eating the kohlrabi after removing the affected part"
] | [
"description of the damage",
"any visible pests or signs of pests",
"location and growing conditions of the kohlrabi"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#828369 | user: What is happening to my peonies? This started last year and has become worse this season.
Four white peonies but my reds are fine.
The roots are dark and crumbling but the insides look alive.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more information about the growing conditions of your peonies, such as soil type, drainage, and watering habits? Additionally, have you noticed any pests or signs of disease on the plants, and have there been any recent changes in their care or environment? Also, could you describe what is shown in the attached images? | 1 | [
"affected plants: white peonies",
"unaffected plants: red peonies",
"symptoms: roots are dark and crumbling, insides look alive",
"issue started: last year and worsened this season"
] | [
"environmental conditions (soil type, drainage, watering habits)",
"presence of pests or diseases",
"any recent changes in care or environment",
"details from attached images"
] | |||
#876344 | user: I had one of these plants come up in my back yard in northwest Columbus last year, and this year there are several in my front yard. I think it looks similar to a poppy. The flowers seem to be open for only a short time during the day. I usually notice them early morning. The blossom is fairly small, about 1-1.5" in diameter. Do you know what this is? The plants around it are foxglove -- you can ignore those! Thank you!
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the plant's leaves or overall height? Also, if possible, could you describe any other distinguishing features or colors of the plant? | 1 | [
"location: northwest Columbus",
"flower characteristics: similar to a poppy, blooms in early morning, small blossom (1-1.5 inches in diameter)"
] | [
"visual details from the attached image",
"additional plant characteristics (e.g., leaf shape, plant height)"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#879921 | user: What is causing this damage to my young aspen tree trunk? Thanks
| <Respond> | Cankers on aspen trees are typically caused by fungal infections, with Cytospora canker being one of the most common types. These infections often enter through wounds or damaged areas on the tree. Unfortunately, once a canker has developed, there are no effective treatments to cure it. However, you can take preventive measures to protect your other trees. Ensure that your trees are healthy by providing adequate water and nutrients, and avoid injuring the bark with lawn equipment. Pruning should be done during dry weather to minimize the risk of infection. If the infected tree is close to others, it might be wise to remove it to prevent the spread of the fungus. Regularly inspect your trees for any signs of damage or disease, and act quickly to remove any infected branches. | 1 | [
"damage type: canker",
"tree type: aspen",
"concern: prevention and spread to nearby trees"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#834692 | user: Hello,
I have two issues in my garden this year:
1) I have a white peony plant that I have had for many years and this year I noticed that when the buds started to open, they quickly browned and died. Upon close inspection I see very small bugs, almost microscopic. I have attached two photos.
2) I have a very old shrub rose that for the past few years, when the buds appear, the quickly shrivel and die. This year I put a rose fertilizer before buds appeared and the first few opened up beautifully, but unfortunately all the subsequent blooms (there are many), didn't open and quickly shrived. (Photo attached) It looks to me like this bush might have some sort of fungus.
I do not want to use any insecticides in my yard. Yesterday when I asked an "expert" at Bachmans, I was told to use Rose Rx 3in 1 that is "certified for organic gardening" and that it isn't harmful to people or pets. They said this product would take care of both problems. Upon reading the insert, it says the product is toxic to bees and sounds pretty toxic to humans as far as I'm concerned. My questions to you are:
1) Should I dead head both the peony and rose blooms completely?
2) Is there a natural remedy, such as peppermint oil, that can be used to treat these plants?
3) I have another peony bush on the other side of the yard, but it doesn't look like it has been infected as of yet. Should I treat that one prophetically?
Thank you in advance for any and all of your help!
Regards, Charlie
| <Respond> | Hello, Charlie,
Thank you for reaching out with your concerns. Let's address each of your questions:
1) **Deadheading:** It's a good practice to deadhead both the peony and rose blooms that are affected. This can help prevent the spread of any potential disease and encourage new growth.
2) **Natural Remedies:** For the peony, you can try using a mixture of water and a few drops of peppermint oil as a natural insect repellent. Spray this solution on the affected areas, but test it on a small part of the plant first to ensure it doesn't cause any damage. For the rose, if you suspect a fungal issue, a homemade solution of baking soda (1 teaspoon) mixed with water (1 quart) and a few drops of dish soap can be sprayed on the leaves to help control fungal growth. Again, test on a small area first.
3) **Preventive Treatment:** For the other peony bush, you can apply the peppermint oil solution as a preventive measure. Regularly inspect the plant for any signs of pests or disease.
I hope these suggestions help, and please feel free to reach out if you have any more questions or need further assistance.
Best regards,
[Your Name]
[Your Position] | 1 | [
"peony issue: Buds browning and dying with small bugs present.",
"rose issue: Buds shriveling and dying, possible fungus.",
"user preference: Avoid using insecticides, prefers natural remedies."
] | [] | |||
#889584 | user: Hi! I appreciate your time and expertise. Could you please help me identify this vine? I’d like to purchase more for my rock wall. Although it loses its leaves in the fall, we love it. Thanks again for your help and time.
| <Clarify> | Could you please provide a description of the vine or any specific characteristics that might help in identifying it? Additionally, if you have any images of the vine, that would be very helpful. | 1 | [
"user's appreciation for the vine: The user loves the vine despite it losing its leaves in the fall.",
"user's intention: The user wants to purchase more of the vine for their rock wall."
] | [
"Description or characteristics of the vine",
"Images of the vine for identification"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#821532 | user: How much fertiliser does soybeans require and of what components should the fertiliser have and at what stage should the fertiliser be applied?
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about your soil type, current soil nutrient levels, and the specific growth stage of your soybeans? Additionally, knowing your local climate conditions and whether the soybeans are part of a crop rotation system would help in giving a more tailored fertilization recommendation. | 1 | [
"crop: soybeans"
] | [
"soil type",
"current soil nutrient levels",
"specific growth stage of the soybeans",
"local climate conditions",
"whether the soybeans are grown in a rotation system"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#833605 | user: This year the cherries on my rainier cherry trees (two side by side) are yellowing and shriveling and falling off the tree while they are still green. They did get sprayed ( a little late in the season) with Spinosad by fertilome. When are they not ripening? Also there are ants climbing up and down the tree. Does that matter?
expert: This may be an issue called June Drop. I've had a couple of reports of this happening in Marion and surrounding counties. The cause is unknown but weather conditions can be involved. We've had such an unusual spring (winter straight into summer with extreme heat events!) Is your tree irrigated?
user: So sad!! Not irrigated directly but I did notice that the base probably get hit by one of the sprinklers we’ve been water 20 min early in the morning.Sent from my iPhone On Jun 6, 2023, at 4:15 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Respond> | The symptoms you're describing could indeed be related to environmental stress, such as the unusual weather conditions you mentioned. The lack of direct irrigation might also contribute to stress, especially during hot weather. While the sprinkler hitting the base of the tree can provide some water, it may not be sufficient for the tree's needs, particularly during dry spells. Consider providing more consistent and direct irrigation to ensure the tree receives adequate moisture. As for the ants, they are often attracted to the sweet secretions of aphids or other pests. Check for any signs of aphid infestation or other pests on your tree. If present, managing these pests can help reduce the ant activity. The Spinosad treatment is effective against many pests, but timing and coverage are crucial for its effectiveness. Ensure that future applications are done according to the recommended schedule and coverage guidelines. | 3 | [
"symptoms: Cherries are yellowing, shriveling, and falling off while still green.",
"treatment: Sprayed with Spinosad by Fertilome.",
"irrigation: Not directly irrigated, but base gets hit by a sprinkler.",
"additional concern: Ants climbing up and down the tree."
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#841411 | user: I have a question, I'd like to know if you're able to identify this insect. They're on my deck, my siding and my lawn furniture. Thanks for any information. Cathy Gough
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the insect, such as its color, shape, or any distinctive markings? Additionally, if you have an image, it would be helpful to analyze it for a more accurate identification. | 1 | [
"location: deck, siding, and lawn furniture",
"size: smaller than a piece of rice",
"wings: none visible"
] | [
"color",
"shape",
"behavior",
"any distinctive markings",
"image analysis"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#886104 | user: Please tell me if this is wild fescue or some other weed in the lawn. It grows quicker than the other grass and appears to be in a clump instead of a single blade when I pull it up.
user: Can you please tell me what to do about this weed, if it is one? I have been pulling by hand but that is very tedious. I don't like using chemicals, if at all possible, as I have a dog that spends time in the yard.
| <Respond> | Since you've identified the unwanted grass as tall fescue and prefer not to use chemicals, there are a few non-chemical methods you can try to manage it. First, you can continue with hand pulling, focusing on removing the entire clump, including the roots, to prevent regrowth. This is labor-intensive but effective over time. Another option is to improve your lawn's overall health to outcompete the fescue. This includes regular mowing, proper fertilization, and overseeding with your desired grass type to fill in bare spots. Additionally, you can use a dethatching rake to remove the fescue clumps more efficiently. Lastly, consider using a natural herbicide that is safe for pets, such as those containing vinegar or citrus oil, but test it on a small area first to ensure it doesn't harm your desired grass. | 2 | [
"unwanted grass: tall fescue",
"location: backyard lawn",
"concern: avoid chemicals due to a dog",
"current method: hand pulling",
"concern about chemicals: glyphosate is not preferred"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
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#841729 | user: Hello; I live in Conifer, CO and have questions on three plant species:
1. My Lodge Pole Pine trees continue to die off, I believe from the Pine Beetle?
a). That is my first question; is it the pine beetle and is there anything that can be done to prevent this? I was told several years ago that there really is no spray, or injection that has been developed that can stop the pine beetle infestation - is that still the case?
b). It seems to be just the Lodge Pole pines and not the Ponderosa Pines - is that true?
2. I have areas on my 2 acre plot that are now growing Common Mullein, where the Lodge Pole pines once grew since it is now open to more sunlight. CO wildflower books tell me most of the species of mullein are not invasive. How will I know if this one is invasive or not, or should I be digging all Mullein plants out? I am including a picture of those mullein plants to make sure you see if these are invasive or I can leave them alone to grow.
3. This plant, see picture of yellow flower - not Common Mullein in the second attachment, is it considered an invasive plant, what is it's name? I cannot find it in wildflower books, or maybe I am going right past it in those ID books? It has a sticky top where the flower develops that yellow set of petals.
Thanks for the help on answering these questions.
expert: Hi, Taylor, 1) Pine beetle will affect both lodgepoles and ponderosas. With a pine beetle infestation, you would see pitch tubes or boring holes in the main trunk/bole of the tree. Are you noticing either of those signs? They may be found higher up on the trunk. If you do have an active pine beetle infestation, there is unfortunately no treatment asides from removing the tree and disposing of it properly. More information can be found here: https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/mountain-pine-beetle-5-528/. 2) The plant does appear to be common mullein, which is a list C noxious weed so control is recommended. Here is more information on how to manage common mullein: https://www.jeffco.us/DocumentCenter/View/1246/Information-Sheet-on-Common-Mullein-PDF?bidId=. 3) The last plant is curlycup gumweed (Grindelia squarrosa), which is native and does not need to be controlled. Thanks! Hania
user: Hania; Thanks for that quick response and set of answers.I do not notice any bore holes. I see many woodpecker holes on those trees that are dying or are dead. I peeled away some bark next to one of the those woodpecker holes and do see some channels but not sure if they are the pine beetle or not? - see what you think.Attached are 3 pics: a typical standing dead tree, a stack of firewood, and a woodpecker hole with bark peeled away.I read the article you attach for the pine beetle. It does not really state what to do with the wood once it is cut down. You mention "...disposing of it properly." Do you mean I cannot stack that wood and burn it for firewood? If I cannot burn it in woodstove, how do I dispose of it?On the mullein, sounds like I need to do quite a bit of mitigation on those then. Shoot. Bees and hummingbirds love 'em.Thanks for answering these additional questions Hania.- michael emerineOn Thu, Jul 20, 2023 at 1:55 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
expert: Hi, Taylor, There are definitely borers in the tree, based on the galleries, boring exit holes, and woodpecker activity that I'm seeing. It's difficult to tell which borer without a sample, but it's best to discard of the trees conservatively. You can cut the trees down and wrap the cut trees with 5 mil clear plastic, making sure that the wood is sealed. You don't want to stack the wood, as that can prevent the wood from being uniformly heated enough. It should sit in the plastic for several months during the summer. Alternatively, you can burn it as firewood as soon as possible, as beetles can still sit in the firewood and emerge/spread. Thanks, Peyton
user: Thanks for the response. This will be difficult.- michael e. On Thu, Jul 20, 2023 at 4:35 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Clarify> | Could you provide a detailed description of the larvae, such as its size, color, and any distinctive features? Additionally, if possible, please ensure the attached images are clear and focused on the larvae for better identification. | 5 | [
"location: Conifer, CO",
"tree species affected: Lodge Pole Pine",
"symptoms observed: woodpecker holes, channels under bark",
"action taken: splitting wood, covering with plastic",
"larvae found: white larvae inside logs"
] | [
"detailed description or characteristics of the larvae",
"clear images of the larvae for identification"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#832997 | user: Hello, Taylor have noticed that many of them branches of our tree have not sprouted leaves and the ones that have look like bugs have eaten them. Do you know what might be happening and what we can do about this? Also, do you know what kind of tree this is? We aren't sure
| <Clarify> | Could you provide clearer images of the tree and its leaves, possibly from different angles? Additionally, any information about the tree's environment, care routine, and any recent changes or events would be helpful for a more accurate diagnosis. | 1 | [
"symptoms: Many branches have not sprouted leaves, existing leaves have multiple holes, branches are brittle and seem dead.",
"user's uncertainty: User is unsure about the type of tree."
] | [
"Clear images of the tree and leaves for identification and diagnosis.",
"Information about the tree's location, environment, and care routine.",
"Any recent changes or events that might have affected the tree."
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#865796 | user: We moved to this home 3 years ago. There were 3 Pines ( not sure but some kind of white pine?) in this area, 2 turned brown and died the year we moved here. The previous owner said he had two others that died in same spot the year before and said he thought because it was too wet, but if it is why did one live? Do you recommend we replace with two of the same or something totally different. We would like whatever we plant here to be about 8 feet tall. We have not tested the soil. It is facing North.
expert: Thanks for the question. I need some clarification in your picture. Is it correct that this picture was taken about three years ago? I ask this because the three evergreens present are all living. If my understanding of this picture is correct, which two were removed and which one is still living? Please be very specific in your identifying the relevant locations. What I also need is a new picture showing what this site now looks like. Also I need a closeup picture of the needles of the one surviving tree. By the way, there are two different evergreens in the picture you sent. Thanks for your anticipated response.
user: Sent from my iPad On Apr 24, 2024, at 10:12 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
expert: It looks as if you intended to respond to my questions but nothing was transmitted. Please attempt again. Many thanks.
user: Here are more specific pictures taken today. There were three of these but the other two turned brown and we dug them out. Thanks
| <Clarify> | Have you had a chance to test the soil for drainage and pH levels? This information would be crucial in determining whether the area is too wet for certain types of plants. Additionally, do you have a preference for the type of plants you would like to replace the pines with, such as evergreen or deciduous? | 5 | [
"location: North-facing",
"previous plants: Some kind of white pine",
"desired height: About 8 feet tall",
"spacing: Approximately 4 feet apart",
"issue with previous plants: Two turned brown and died, possibly due to wet conditions"
] | [
"Current soil conditions",
"Specific environmental conditions (e.g., drainage, sunlight exposure)",
"User's preference for plant type (e.g., evergreen, deciduous)"
] | |||
#878850 | user: Hello! Our community garden in Baltimore City has two 15+ year cherry trees. Recently, we have noticed these gummy protrusions on their trunks and large branches. Are they a disease that can be treated / means the trees need to be cut down? Thank you!
| <Respond> | The gummy protrusions you are observing on your cherry trees are likely a condition known as gummosis. This can be caused by a variety of factors, including bacterial or fungal infections, insect infestations, or environmental stress. In fruiting cherry trees, a common cause is bacterial canker, which can be serious if not managed. It's important to inspect the trees for any signs of cankers or lesions, and consider pruning out any affected areas if possible. Ensure that pruning tools are sterilized to prevent the spread of pathogens. As for the risk of spreading, bacterial canker primarily affects stone fruit trees, so your blueberries, raspberries, and other non-stone fruit plants are at lower risk. However, it's always good practice to monitor all plants for any unusual symptoms. Improving tree health through proper watering, mulching, and avoiding mechanical injuries can help reduce stress and susceptibility to diseases. If the problem persists or worsens, consulting with a local arborist or extension service for a more detailed diagnosis and treatment plan would be beneficial. | 1 | [
"location: Baltimore City",
"tree age: 15+ years",
"tree type: fruiting cherry trees",
"symptom: gummy protrusions on trunks and large branches",
"nearby plants: blueberries, raspberries, rose bush, fig, pawpaw, grapes, apple tree",
"concern: risk of spread to other plants"
] | [] | |||
#885702 | user: reaching out to you wondering if either you or someone you know of does in-home repotting of cactus.
we have an old very large cactus, we are told it is Euphorbia Lactea, that has been leaning within its pot for a handful of years now and has finally caused its pot to tip. our current pot is 14” tall and 15 1/2” across. the cactus from dirt level up is 70" tall and 65" across at its widest point.
we have reached out to many organizations including area botanic gardens for someone to help with this giant thing but have been unsuccessful.
any information you can share will be helpful. thank you.
| <Respond> | Repotting a large Euphorbia Lactea can indeed be a challenging task, especially given its size and age. Here are some steps and tips that might help you if you decide to attempt this yourself:
1. **Safety First**: Ensure you have thick gloves and protective clothing, as Euphorbias can exude a milky sap that is irritating to the skin and eyes.
2. **Support the Plant**: Before attempting to move the cactus, consider using soft ties or straps to gently secure the branches and prevent them from breaking.
3. **Prepare the New Pot**: Choose a pot that is significantly larger and heavier to provide stability. Ensure it has good drainage.
4. **Soil Mix**: Use a well-draining cactus or succulent mix. You can add perlite or sand to improve drainage.
5. **Repotting Process**: Carefully remove the cactus from its current pot. You may need to gently loosen the soil around the edges. Once out, inspect the roots and trim any that are dead or rotting.
6. **Positioning**: Place the cactus in the new pot, ensuring it is centered and upright. Fill in with soil mix, gently packing it around the roots.
7. **Aftercare**: Water sparingly initially to allow the roots to settle. Gradually increase watering as the plant stabilizes.
If you are still hesitant, consider reaching out to local gardening clubs or online forums where you might find someone with experience in handling large cacti. Good luck with your repotting project! | 1 | [
"plant_type: Euphorbia Lactea",
"current_pot_size: 14” tall and 15 1/2” across",
"cactus_size: 70\" tall and 65\" across",
"age: over 30 years old",
"previous attempts: Contacted private companies and botanical gardens without success"
] | [] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#874032 | user: Hi,
I was wondering if you could give me some help with my woodland sunflowers. There are currently 2 problems.
Some of the leaves have this stuff that looks like bird droppings and some are doing the leaf curling.
Is this something you can help with?
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details about the environmental conditions where your woodland sunflowers are growing, such as sunlight exposure, watering schedule, and any recent changes in their care or environment? This information will help in diagnosing the issues more accurately. | 1 | [
"plant: woodland sunflowers",
"symptoms: leaf curling, substance resembling bird droppings on leaves",
"actions taken: inspected for bugs, applied neem oil, considering soapy water"
] | [
"confirmation of pest presence",
"environmental conditions",
"watering and fertilization practices",
"any recent changes in care or environment"
] | |||
#840119 | user: Can you please tell me what is doing this to my honeysuckle plant and how do i rectify it?
Thank you!
| <Clarify> | Could you please describe the symptoms you are observing on your honeysuckle plant? Additionally, any details about the plant's environment, recent changes in care, or specific issues visible in the attached images would be helpful. | 1 | [
"plant: honeysuckle"
] | [
"description of the symptoms",
"details from the images",
"location and environmental conditions",
"any recent changes in care or environment"
] | |||
#883376 | user: Hello, Harper black-eyed Susans are turning white at the petal tips, only on the tops. The underside doesn't seem to be affected. I've never seen this before. What causes this, and should I do anything? Thanks for your help.
| <Respond> | The whitening of the petal tips on your black-eyed Susans could be due to a few factors. One common cause is environmental stress, such as inconsistent watering, especially during dry spells. This can lead to dehydration and stress in the plants, causing discoloration. Another possibility is sunscald, where intense sunlight bleaches the petals. To address this, ensure consistent watering, especially during dry periods, to keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged. Additionally, consider providing some shade during the hottest part of the day if sunscald is suspected. Regularly check for pests or diseases, although these are less likely given the symptoms described. If the problem persists, further investigation might be needed, possibly involving a soil test or closer examination of the plant's environment. | 1 | [
"symptom: Black-eyed Susans' petal tips are turning white, only on the tops.",
"location: Petal tips",
"underside: Not affected",
"watering: Inconsistent during dry spells"
] | [] | |||
#823741 | user: I live in West Salem Oregon, planted about 40 Waxleaf Privets on 3' spacing about 5 to 6 years ago and they seemed to be doing great. In the last 2 year or so they are dying off one plant at a time and appears to move along the row from at least two areas. There may be more areas as I am seeing other patches of yellow leaves. So far about 5 plants have completely died or are very close, with at least that many more showing signs. I replaced two so far. The larger one that is about 4' tall, may also be affected.
If attach some pictures is it possible to determine what the cause is and if I can do anything to stop it?
Thank you.
expert: I suspect you have a root problem of some kind. The images and description support this. The images show chlorotic leaves with slightly green veins and some with marginal burning. The leaves all seem to be on the same branch rather than just older or younger leaves. Although this a nutrient and/or water deficiency it occurs when the roots are not functioning well. The cause could be any of a number of issues from gophers working their way down the row (it looks like mounds of soil along some of those bushes) to a root rot fungus that also can go from plant to plant, down the row, year after year. When you dig up dead ones you can look for possible causes around the root collar or on the roots themselves. Although curious I do not think there are any chemical issues give the nice lawn and weedless garden bed and no issues on the other side of the fence as it looks like the neighbors do not do much gardening.
user: Professor Pscheidt, Thank you for your prompt and detailed response. Some details regarding your observations: There are no gophers in the area. The mound was created when they were planted and more so when a strip of sod was rolled over from the lawn side only. I only water in the summer with a soaker for one hour every one to three days depending on how dry the soil is. Attempting to always have the soil down a few inches damp. Once or twice a year I spread an 8 lb. bag of Osmocote over the area. It seems as though I can see some of it on the ground most of the year. The bed is larger behind and slopes away to the NNE. I normally use some round up on it once or twice a year. However there are some weeds do well but the shade does help keep them in check. I will dig one or two up in the near future and send pictures of the roots. Really hoping to find out if I am wasting my time replacing the dead ones. Thanks so much for your help! William Dye As a retired PLS for the State of Oregon I have taken classes from and helped instruct surveying/gps type classes in the Engineering Department from and with Professor Schultz, then in more recent times Michael Olsen. Both of these guy's are awesome. I could dream of being half as talented and knowledgeable as they are. However Professor Schultz's coffee has to be the worst I have ever tasted. :-) On 03/28/2023 5:05 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
user: Here are some pictures of one of my waxleaf privet. The roots are still damp from the hosing the mud off. I’m sure they are dry by now and I could send more pictures if that helps. Thank you for your help with this!William, DyeSent from my iPhone On Mar 29, 2023, at 12:03 PM, WILLIAM DYE <<personal data hidden>> wrote: Professor Pscheidt, Thank you for your prompt and detailed response. Some details regarding your observations: There are no gophers in the area. The mound was created when they were planted and more so when a strip of sod was rolled over from the lawn side only. I only water in the summer with a soaker for one hour every one to three days depending on how dry the soil is. Attempting to always have the soil down a few inches damp. Once or twice a year I spread an 8 lb. bag of Osmocote over the area. It seems as though I can see some of it on the ground most of the year. The bed is larger behind and slopes away to the NNE. I normally use some round up on it once or twice a year. However there are some weeds do well but the shade does help keep them in check. I will dig one or two up in the near future and send pictures of the roots. Really hoping to find out if I am wasting my time replacing the dead ones. Thanks so much for your help! William Dye As a retired PLS for the State of Oregon I have taken classes from and helped instruct surveying/gps type classes in the Engineering Department from and with Professor Schultz, then in more recent times Michael Olsen. Both of these guy's are awesome. I could dream of being half as talented and knowledgeable as they are. However Professor Schultz's coffee has to be the worst I have ever tasted. :-) On 03/28/2023 5:05 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
user: If it will help, I have another plant that is not completely dead yet but will be soon.Sent from my iPhone On Mar 29, 2023, at 12:03 PM, WILLIAM DYE <<personal data hidden>> wrote: Professor Pscheidt, Thank you for your prompt and detailed response. Some details regarding your observations: There are no gophers in the area. The mound was created when they were planted and more so when a strip of sod was rolled over from the lawn side only. I only water in the summer with a soaker for one hour every one to three days depending on how dry the soil is. Attempting to always have the soil down a few inches damp. Once or twice a year I spread an 8 lb. bag of Osmocote over the area. It seems as though I can see some of it on the ground most of the year. The bed is larger behind and slopes away to the NNE. I normally use some round up on it once or twice a year. However there are some weeds do well but the shade does help keep them in check. I will dig one or two up in the near future and send pictures of the roots. Really hoping to find out if I am wasting my time replacing the dead ones. Thanks so much for your help! William Dye As a retired PLS for the State of Oregon I have taken classes from and helped instruct surveying/gps type classes in the Engineering Department from and with Professor Schultz, then in more recent times Michael Olsen. Both of these guy's are awesome. I could dream of being half as talented and knowledgeable as they are. However Professor Schultz's coffee has to be the worst I have ever tasted. :-) On 03/28/2023 5:05 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
expert: The images of the roots under the poor bush seem to show a lot of roots in a compact area. It is difficult to tell but the roots seem to be mostly in good shape. I suspect it was difficult to dig out of the ground which would generally indicate it is not a root rot. Some roots look dark and may be rotted. I always check the cambium to see if that region is white, wet and fresh looking. If not then there could be issues with several different fugal root rotters. I do wonder about girdling roots. When planting we like to have the circling roots in a pot spread out. As they get older, circling roots will grow larger, impact each other including the trunk and can cut off the vascular system between the roots and branches.
user: When I looked today after it was dry, I could see his white spots around the root collar that’s in the indication. If it’s not root rot, then I’m wondering if I should continue replacing the dead ones?Sent from my iPhone On Apr 27, 2023, at 10:56 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details on the soil drainage and compaction in the area where the privets are planted? Additionally, have you noticed any pests or other environmental factors that might be affecting the plants? | 7 | [
"Location: West Salem, Oregon",
"Plant type: Waxleaf Privets",
"Spacing: 3' spacing",
"Age of plants: 5 to 6 years",
"Watering schedule: Summer with a soaker for one hour every one to three days",
"Fertilizer: 8 lb. bag of Osmocote once or twice a year",
"Weed control: Roundup once or twice a year",
"Symptoms: Chlorotic leaves, marginal burning, dying one plant at a time",
"Root condition: Some roots look dark, possible girdling roots",
"Gophers: No gophers in the area"
] | [
"Confirmation of root rot or other specific disease",
"Details on soil drainage and compaction",
"Presence of any pests or other environmental factors"
] | |||
#824127 | user: Hello,
I live in NE DC and inherited a rain garden in my yard when I moved in in 2021. The garden has pink turtlehead, some iris and Lillie’s, and 2 kinds of shrubs, which I have struggled to identify, but one of them produced very striking red berries this past winter, which I don’t recall it producing during the 21-22 winter.
Should I cut back the dead turtlehead to allow for regrowth? I’ve seen mixed information about the best way to care for it.
Any idea what the shrubs are and Is now a good time to prune them? The pics aren’t great, so no worries if you can’t identify them.
Any other advice or suggestions for rain garden care? There’s some dead foliage at the bottom and I’m not sure whether I should clear that, or if it’s good to leave it.
1st pic is what it looks like now. 2nd pic is of one of the shrub’s berries this past winter. 3rd pic is the best pic I have from late summer/early fall when turtlehead was blooming and shrubs were leafed out.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more details or clearer images of the shrubs for identification? Additionally, do you have any specific goals for your rain garden, such as attracting wildlife or focusing on aesthetics? | 1 | [
"location: NE DC",
"plants in the garden: pink turtlehead, some iris, Lillie’s, 2 kinds of shrubs",
"one shrub characteristic: produced striking red berries this past winter"
] | [
"specific identification of the shrubs",
"current condition of the plants",
"user's preference for garden aesthetics or wildlife support"
] | |||
#841798 | user: My Autumn Glory tree is half very healthy (leaves are dark green) and the other half the leaves are have turned pale green, limp and look like they are going to begin dropping. It has been in the ground for 10 years and up until now, very healthy.
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more information about any recent changes in the environment or care of the tree, such as changes in watering, fertilization, or any signs of pests or diseases? Additionally, have you noticed any physical damage to the tree or changes in the soil conditions? | 1 | [
"tree type: Autumn Glory",
"age: 10 years",
"symptoms: Half of the tree has dark green leaves and is healthy, the other half has pale green, limp leaves that look like they are going to drop."
] | [
"recent changes in environment or care",
"pest or disease presence",
"soil conditions",
"watering and fertilization practices",
"any physical damage to the tree"
] | Not supported with pagination yet | Not supported with pagination yet |
|
#840450 | user: Found this larva on my shoe after pulling up an immature golden rod plant. What is it?
| <Clarify> | Could you please provide clear, close-up images of the larva from different angles? Additionally, can you describe the size of the larva and any other plants or insects you have noticed in your garden recently? This information will help in accurately identifying the larva and advising on organic control methods. | 1 | [
"larva location: found on shoe after pulling up an immature golden rod plant",
"larva description: has tiny black spots along the side and 3 black legs on the abdomen",
"user preference: prefers organic methods"
] | [
"clear images of the larva",
"confirmation of the larva's size",
"additional context about the garden environment"
] | Not supported with pagination yet |
||
#827344 | user: Hello. My two sons gave me a magnolia tree for Mothers Day 4 years ago. It is now about 20 feet tall. It has not turned green yet and looks all brown. Only about 5 leaves remain and they are brown. The tree looks dead. I hoping it is not. What can I do?
| <Clarify> | Could you provide more information about the soil conditions, watering routine, and any signs of pests or disease? Additionally, could you share the images of the tree for a better assessment? | 1 | [
"tree_age: 4 years",
"tree_height: 20 feet",
"current condition: brown, with only about 5 brown leaves remaining",
"no green found under bark: husband performed a scrape test"
] | [
"soil conditions",
"watering and care routine",
"any signs of pests or disease",
"local climate conditions",
"images of the tree for visual assessment"
] |
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