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An aperitif is an alcoholic drink served before a meal, sometimes as an appetizer, or accompanied with an appetizer. The drink is usually somewhat bitter, sweet or light, and serves as a warm-up or opener to a meal.
He thinks sparkling wine is too often pigeonholed as an aperitif or celebratory wine. Hulihan also likes a particular style of sauvignon blanc with cracked crab, one with more body and fruit than, say, the typical New Zealand sauvignon blanc.