Claire McCardell
{{short description|American fashion designer (1905-1958)}}
[[Ladawan:Claire_McCardell_on_the_cover_of_TIME,_May_2_1955.jpg|thumb|An Amerikanang tagadesinyo nin moda na si Claire McCardell pinapalibotan nin mga modelo na sulot an saiyang mga desinyo, [[Time (magazine)|Time]], Mayo 2, 1955]]
Si '''Claire McCardell''' (Mayo 24, 1905 – Marso 22, 1958) sarong Amerikanang  [[Fashion design|fashion designer]] nin mga [[ready-to-wear]] na bado kan ika-20 na siglo. Siya an nagdesinyo nin mga [[American sportswear]].<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=pWG9AAAAQBAJ|title=Tim Gunn's Fashion Bible: The Fascinating History of Everything in Your Closet|last=Gunn|first=Tim|last2=Calhoun|first2=Ada|date=2013-09-03|publisher=Simon and Schuster|isbn=9781451643862|language=en}}</ref>

== Buhay ==
Si McCardell an matua sa apat na aki ni Eleanor asin Adrian McCardell sa[[Frederick, Maryland]]. Si Adrian sarong [[state senator]] asin presidente kan Frederick County National Bank sa Maryland.<ref name=":1">{{Cite web|url=http://msa.maryland.gov/megafile/msa/speccol/sc3500/sc3520/013500/013581/html/13581bio.html|title=Claire McCardell, MSA SC 3520-13581|website=msa.maryland.gov|access-date=2016-07-06}}</ref>  Kan siya aki pa, nagkaigwa siya nin alyas na "Kick"  sa saiyang abilidad na dae tuludon kan mga lalaki.<ref name=":2">{{Cite web|url=http://articles.baltimoresun.com/1998-10-04/features/1998277131_1_claire-mccardell-fashion-koogle|title=Thoroughly modern McCardell Designer: Frederick native Claire McCardell started a fashion revolution in the 1930s. Now, her legacy is being celebrated in a book, a gallery and a retrospective show.|access-date=2016-07-06|archive-date=2016-09-11|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160911004713/http://articles.baltimoresun.com/1998-10-04/features/1998277131_1_claire-mccardell-fashion-koogle|dead-url=yes}}</ref>

May hilig na sa moda kan siya aki pa, gustong magduman sa siyudad nin New York si McCardell tanganing mag-adal nin moda sa edad na 16. Kan siya habong pahalion kan saiyang ama, kinumbinse siya na makua nin home economics program sa [[Hood College]]. Makalihis an duwang taon na pagklase sa Maryland, si McCardell naglipat sa New York asin nag-adal sa [[Parsons The New School for Design|Parsons]] (midbid sa ngunyan bilang New York School of Fine and Applied Art). Kan1927, si McCardell nagduman sa Paris, padagos an saiyang pag-adal sa eskwelahan na  Parsons sa  [[Place des Vosges]].<ref name=":1" />Sa Paris, si McCardell asin saiyang mga kaklase nakabakal nin mga sample na bado arog kan desinyo ni [[Madeleine Vionnet]] na saindang inadalan<ref name=":3">{{Cite web|url=http://articles.baltimoresun.com/1999-08-07/news/9908070333_1_claire-mccardell-design-department-school-of-design|title=Claire McCardell and the American look|access-date=2016-07-06|archive-date=2016-09-09|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160909234114/http://articles.baltimoresun.com/1999-08-07/news/9908070333_1_claire-mccardell-design-department-school-of-design|dead-url=yes}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=hDkVCwAAQBAJ|title=Clothing and Fashion: American Fashion from Head to Toe|last=F|first=José Blanco|last2=Hunt-Hurst|first2=Patricia Kay|last3=Lee|first3=Heather Vaughan|last4=Doering|first4=Mary|date=2015-11-23|publisher=ABC-CLIO|isbn=9781610693103|language=en}}</ref>

Nakatapos si McCardell sa Parsons na igwang sertipiko sa pagdesinyo nin  costume kan 1923.<ref name=":4">{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=6nevAwAAQBAJ|title=The Great Fashion Designers|last=Polan|first=Brenda|last2=Tredre|first2=Roger|date=2009-10-01|publisher=Berg|isbn=9780857851741|language=en}}</ref> Matapos an saiyang paggradwar, nagtrabaho siya sa pag sketch sa mga tindahan nin bado,<ref name=":1" /> pagpinta nin mga burak sa mga papel na ilawan, asin naging modelo ni [[B. Altman and Company|B. Altman]]. Dangan nabisto niya an tagadesinyo na si  Robert Turk.<ref name=":2" />

<ref name=":5">{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=qXqXBgAAQBAJ|title=Survey of Historic Costume Study Guide|last=Tortora|first=Phyllis G.|last2=Eubank|first2=Keith|date=2009-06-15|publisher=Bloomsbury Publishing USA|isbn=9781609012212|language=en}}</ref>
[[Ladawan:Sunburn-brown_jersey_beachware_designed_by_Claire_McCardell.jpg|thumb|Sarong gubing na pandagat na dinisenyo ni  McCardell circa 1948]]


Kan 1943, kinasal si McCardell sa arkitektong  taga-Texas na si Irving Drought Harris, na igwang duwang aki sa enot na agom,<ref name=":3" /><ref name=":4" /> asin may harong sa [[Manhattan]].

An saiyang buhay asin trabaho kan siya nagkaigwa nin kanser sa colon kan 1957. Sa tabang kan saiyang amiga asin kaklase na si Mildred Orrick, natapos ni McCardell an saiyang koleksyon na nakaratay sa ospital. Nagluwas siya sa ospital para makataram sa saiyang  huring runway show. Nagadan si McCardell kan Marso 22, 1958 sa edad na 52.<ref name=":1" />

Kan siya magadan, nagdesisyon an saiyang pamilya na ipasara an saiyang label. Sinabi kan saiyang tugang na lalaki na "It wasn't that difficult [to close the label]. Claire's ideas were always her own."<ref name=":2" />

== Impluwensiya ==
Kan 1981, niluwas ni  [[Lord & Taylor]] an "Popover Dress" bilang paggirumdom kan tindahan ni ''McCardell sa'' Fifth Avenue sa Manhattan.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=KuQCAAAAMBAJ|title=New York Magazine|last=LLC|first=New York Media|date=1981-03-02|publisher=New York Media, LLC|language=en}}</ref> An mga bersyon kan  "Popover Dress ginibo sa [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]],  [[Rhode Island School of Design]], asin Museum at F.I.T.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/C.I.45.71.2ab/|title="Pop-over" {{!}} C.I.45.71.2ab {{!}} Work of Art {{!}} Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History {{!}} The Metropolitan Museum of Art|website=The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History|access-date=2016-07-06}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://risdmuseum.org/art_design/objects/6143_popover_dress|title="Popover" Dress – Objects - RISD MUSEUM|website=risdmuseum.org|access-date=2016-07-06}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/People$00406603/4/dynasty-desc?t:state:flow=26aea269-a8b0-43fd-88bc-26da4d0fa8da|title=The Museum at FIT - Online Collections|website=fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu|access-date=2016-07-06|archive-date=2016-08-11|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160811083617/http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/People$00406603/4/dynasty-desc?t:state:flow=26aea269-a8b0-43fd-88bc-26da4d0fa8da|dead-url=yes}}</ref> An mga bersyon man kan "Monastic Dress" ginibo sa Metropolitan Museum of Art asin [[Los Angeles County Museum of Art|LACMA]].<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/97501|title=Claire McCardell {{!}} "Monastic Dress" {{!}} American {{!}} The Met|website=The Metropolitan Museum of Art, i.e. The Met Museum|access-date=2016-07-06}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/157273|title=Claire McCardell {{!}} Dress {{!}} American {{!}} The Met|website=The Metropolitan Museum of Art, i.e. The Met Museum|access-date=2016-07-06}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://collections.lacma.org/node/178697|title=Woman's Dress, 'Monastic' {{!}} LACMA Collections|website=collections.lacma.org|access-date=2016-07-06}}</ref>

Kan 1990,an  ''[[Life (magazine)|Life]]'' nginaranan si  McCardell bilang saro sa sanggatos na importanteng Amerikana kan ika-20 na siglo.<ref name=":4" /> Makalihis an taon, siya ginawadan nin [[Maryland Women's Hall of Fame]].<ref name=":1" />

Kan 1998, kwarwentang taon kan saiyang pagkagadan, tolong suway na paggirumdom kan saiyang mga gibo an nilunsad sa  [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]], F.I.T., asin [[Maryland Historical Society]] sa Baltimore.<ref name=":8">{{Cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1998/11/17/style/celebrating-claire-mccardell.html|title=Celebrating Claire McCardell|last=White|first=Constance C. R.|date=1998-11-17|newspaper=The New York Times|issn=0362-4331|access-date=2016-07-06}}</ref>

An mga tagadesinyo na sina  [[Isaac Mizrahi]], [[Donna Karan]], [[Calvin Klein]], [[Norma Kamali]], asin [[Cynthia Rowley]] may impluwensiya ni McCardell.<ref name=":8" />An koleksyon ni [[Anna Sui]] nin spring-summer 1999 inspirasyon kan saiyang gibo.<ref name=":8" /> Sinabi ni  Anna Sui, "What I truly appreciate was her fabric sensibility, even with more constructed fabrics like denim. She made them all look so soft and drapy. The halters she did were so modern. The thing is, you look at some of the things she did, and you can<nowiki>'t believe it was the 40s.''</nowiki><ref name=":8" />

<ref name=":1" />

== Mga toltolan ==
{{Reflist}}

== Mga panluwas na takod ==

* [https://web.archive.org/web/20080408124717/http://library.newschool.edu/speccoll/fashionhistory/mccardell.php McCardell's page at the New School's website]
* [http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,866314-1,00.html 1955 Time magazine article on McCardell's life and work] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130123061500/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,866314-1,00.html |date=2013-01-23 }}
* [https://www.nytimes.com/1998/11/17/style/celebrating-claire-mccardell.html?pagewanted=2 1998 New York Times article on McCardell's life, work, and contemporary influence]
* [http://www.msa.md.gov/msa/educ/exhibits/womenshall/html/mccardell.html McCardell's biography from the Maryland Women's Hall of Fame] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210411002014/https://www.msa.md.gov/msa/educ/exhibits/womenshall/html/mccardell.html |date=2021-04-11 }}
* [http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/Ma-Mu/Mccardell-Claire.html McCardell's biography from Fashion Encyclopedia]
* [http://dmc.newschool.edu:8081/BrowserInsight/BrowserInsight?cmd=start&cid=14&ig=&gwisp=&iia=0&gwia=1&ir=-1&id=-1&d=0&iwas=2&gc=0&isl=1&ss=0 Original McCardell design sketches, from The New School's archives]
* [http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hi/hi_mccardellclaire.htm Extant examples of McCardell's work at the Metropolitan Museum of Art]
* [http://libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/cdm/compoundobject/collection/p15324coll10/id/42547 American Ingenuity: Sportswear 1930s&#x2013;1970s], an exhibition catalog from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Libraries (fully available online as PDF), which contains material on Claire McCardell (see index)

{{Maryland Women's Hall of Fame}} {{American sportswear}}
{{Authority control}}
Si Claire McCardell (Mayo 24, 1905 – Marso 22, 1958) sarong Amerikanang  fashion designer nin mga ready-to-wear na bado kan ika-20 na siglo. Siya an nagdesinyo nin mga American sportswear.

 Buhay 
Si McCardell an matua sa apat na aki ni Eleanor asin Adrian McCardell saFrederick, Maryland. Si Adrian sarong state senator asin presidente kan Frederick County National Bank sa Maryland.  Kan siya aki pa, nagkaigwa siya nin alyas na "Kick"  sa saiyang abilidad na dae tuludon kan mga lalaki.

May hilig na sa moda kan siya aki pa, gustong magduman sa siyudad nin New York si McCardell tanganing mag-adal nin moda sa edad na 16. Kan siya habong pahalion kan saiyang ama, kinumbinse siya na makua nin home economics program sa Hood College. Makalihis an duwang taon na pagklase sa Maryland, si McCardell naglipat sa New York asin nag-adal sa Parsons (midbid sa ngunyan bilang New York School of Fine and Applied Art). Kan1927, si McCardell nagduman sa Paris, padagos an saiyang pag-adal sa eskwelahan na  Parsons sa  Place des Vosges.Sa Paris, si McCardell asin saiyang mga kaklase nakabakal nin mga sample na bado arog kan desinyo ni Madeleine Vionnet na saindang inadalan

Nakatapos si McCardell sa Parsons na igwang sertipiko sa pagdesinyo nin  costume kan 1923. Matapos an saiyang paggradwar, nagtrabaho siya sa pag sketch sa mga tindahan nin bado, pagpinta nin mga burak sa mga papel na ilawan, asin naging modelo ni B. Altman. Dangan nabisto niya an tagadesinyo na si  Robert Turk.

thumb|Sarong gubing na pandagat na dinisenyo ni  McCardell circa 1948

Kan 1943, kinasal si McCardell sa arkitektong  taga-Texas na si Irving Drought Harris, na igwang duwang aki sa enot na agom, asin may harong sa Manhattan.

An saiyang buhay asin trabaho kan siya nagkaigwa nin kanser sa colon kan 1957. Sa tabang kan saiyang amiga asin kaklase na si Mildred Orrick, natapos ni McCardell an saiyang koleksyon na nakaratay sa ospital. Nagluwas siya sa ospital para makataram sa saiyang  huring runway show. Nagadan si McCardell kan Marso 22, 1958 sa edad na 52.

Kan siya magadan, nagdesisyon an saiyang pamilya na ipasara an saiyang label. Sinabi kan saiyang tugang na lalaki na "It wasn't that difficult [to close the label]. Claire's ideas were always her own."

 Impluwensiya 
Kan 1981, niluwas ni  Lord & Taylor an "Popover Dress" bilang paggirumdom kan tindahan ni McCardell sa Fifth Avenue sa Manhattan. An mga bersyon kan  "Popover Dress ginibo sa Metropolitan Museum of Art,  Rhode Island School of Design, asin Museum at F.I.T. An mga bersyon man kan "Monastic Dress" ginibo sa Metropolitan Museum of Art asin LACMA.

Kan 1990,an  Life nginaranan si  McCardell bilang saro sa sanggatos na importanteng Amerikana kan ika-20 na siglo. Makalihis an taon, siya ginawadan nin Maryland Women's Hall of Fame.

Kan 1998, kwarwentang taon kan saiyang pagkagadan, tolong suway na paggirumdom kan saiyang mga gibo an nilunsad sa  Metropolitan Museum of Art, F.I.T., asin Maryland Historical Society sa Baltimore.

An mga tagadesinyo na sina  Isaac Mizrahi, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Norma Kamali, asin Cynthia Rowley may impluwensiya ni McCardell.An koleksyon ni Anna Sui nin spring-summer 1999 inspirasyon kan saiyang gibo. Sinabi ni  Anna Sui, "What I truly appreciate was her fabric sensibility, even with more constructed fabrics like denim. She made them all look so soft and drapy. The halters she did were so modern. The thing is, you look at some of the things she did, and you can't believe it was the 40s.''

 Mga toltolan 

 Mga panluwas na takod 

 McCardell's page at the New School's website
 1955 Time magazine article on McCardell's life and work 
 1998 New York Times article on McCardell's life, work, and contemporary influence
 McCardell's biography from the Maryland Women's Hall of Fame 
 McCardell's biography from Fashion Encyclopedia
 Original McCardell design sketches, from The New School's archives
 Extant examples of McCardell's work at the Metropolitan Museum of Art
 American Ingenuity: Sportswear 1930s–1970s, an exhibition catalog from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Libraries (fully available online as PDF), which contains material on Claire McCardell (see index)