Madeleine Vionnet
{{short description|French fashion designer}}
{{about|the haute couture designer|the fashion label|Vionnet (company)}}


Si '''Madeleine Vionnet''' ({{IPA-fr|ma.də.lɛn vjɔ.ne|pron}}; Hunyo  22, 1876, [[Loiret]], France – Marso 2, 1975) sarong Pranses na taga desinyo nin moda. Si  Vionnet nag-adal sa London bago nagbalik sa Pransiya tanganing siya makatugdok nin saiyang enot sa fashion house sa Paris kan 1912. Dawa ining pwersang pinasara kan  1914 kan nagsiklab an enot na Giyera Mundial , nagbukas ini pakatapos kan giyera asin si  Vionnet saro sa  nangengenot na paradisenyo sa  tahaw nin giyera[[Paris between the Wars (1919-1939)|(1919-1939)]].  Napwersang ipasara an tindahan ni  Vionnet kan 1939 asin nagretiro kan 1940.

Inaapod man na "Queen of the [[Grain (textile)#Bias|bias cut]]" asin "the architect among dressmakers", si Vionnet midbid sa ngunyan sa saiyang istilong [[Greece|Grecian]] na pagbado asin nagpasikat sa  [[Bias (textile)|bias cut]]  sa moda asin nagtaong inspirasyon sa mga paradesinyo sa ngunyan.

== Biograpiya ==
Pinangaki kan Hunyo 22, 1876<ref name="Kirke">{{Cite book|title=Madeleine Vionnet|last=Kirke|first=Betty|date=1998-01-01|publisher=Chronicle Books|isbn=0811819973|location=San Francisco|language=en|oclc=39533723}}</ref> sa pobreng pamilya sa Chilleurs-aux-Bois, [[Loiret]], si Vionnet naglipat sa Aubervilliers kaiba an saiyang ama sa edad na 5. Kan siya magpundo na sa pag-eskwela, siya nag-adal bilang paratahi kaiba an mga miyembro kan [[garde champêtre]] sa edad na dose.<ref name=":1">{{Cite web|url=http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/francais/mode-et-textile/expositions-70/prochainement-446/madeleine-vionnet-1876-1975/|title=Madeleine Vionnet, puriste de la mode|access-date=13 August 2014|website=Les Arts Decoratifs|language=fr}}</ref> Sa halipot na pag-aguman sa edad na 18 asin pagkagadan kan saiyang aki sa edad na disiotso,<ref name=":6">{{Cite book|title=The Chronology of Fashion|last=Stevenson|first=N. J.|publisher=A & C Black|year=2011|isbn=978-1408126370|pages=104–105}}</ref> binayaan niya an saiyang agom asin nagduman sa London para magtrabaho bilang paratahi sa hospital. Kan siya nasa London, si Vionnet nagtrabaho bilang fitter ni [[Kate Reily]].<ref>{{cite book|title=Madeline Vionnet|last=Golbin|first=Pamela|publisher=Rizzoli|year=2009}}</ref>

Nagbalik si Vionnet sa Paris, nagtrabaho nin anom na taon sa [[fashion house]] [[Callot Soeurs]] bilang paragibo nin [[Toile#Test garment|toile]].  Matapos magkaigwang dae pagkakaintindihan sa tagapamahala nin tindahan, nagtangka si Vionnet na maghali sa trabaho. Siya kinumbinsir kang matuang tugang kan mga Callot na si  Marie Callot Gerber, matapos tawan nin promosyon na mataong dalan para siya maggibo nin mga desinyo sa modelong si Gerber.<ref name="Kirke" /> Pinuri ni Vionnet si Marie Callot Gerber bilang "marhay na babayi" Sinabi niya "without the example of the Callot Soeurs, I would have continued to make Fords. It is because of them that I have been able to make [[Rolls-Royce Limited|Rolls Royces]]".<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|url=https://archive.org/details/greatfashiondesi0000pola|title=The Great Fashion Designers|last=Polan|first=Brenda|last2=Tredre|first2=Roger|publisher=Berg|year=2009|pages=[https://archive.org/details/greatfashiondesi0000pola/page/13 13]&ndash;14|url-access=registration}}</ref> An saiyang pagiging simple taliwas sa pagiging engrande kan fashion house.<ref name=":6" />

Si Vionnet nag desinyo ki  [[Jacques Doucet (fashion designer)|Jacques Doucet]] sa tahaw kang taong1907 hanggang 1911;<ref name=":4">{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=2Rsc2A0t_BMC|title=Dressing Modern Frenchwomen: Marketing Haute Couture, 1919–1939|last=Stewart|first=Mary Lynn|date=31 March 2008|isbn=9780801888038|pages=8&ndash;9}}</ref> pero an saiyang istilo na mayong sapatos asin haluwag na bado nagkaigwang dae pagkakauyon sa istilo kan fashion house.<ref name=":1" /> Kan 1912, minukna niya an saiyang sadiring fashion house na "[[Vionnet (company)|Vionnet]]", na nagsara kan 1914 nin huli sa giyera. <ref name=":1" /> nagbukas si Vionnet nin bagong tindahan kan 1923 sa [[Avenue Montaigne]] na smidbid bilang "Temple of Fashion".<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.vionnet.com/madeleine-vionnet|title=Madeleine Vionnet|access-date=13 August 2014}}</ref>Kan 1925, naglawak an saiyang tindahan sa [[Fifth Avenue]], New York City. Nagtinda siyang mga usong bado.
[[Ladawan:Vionnet_evening_gown,_embroidered_silk_net,_1931.jpg|thumb|318x318px|Vionnet evening gown, embroidered silk net, 1931]]
[[Ladawan:Bias_(textile).png|thumb|150x150px|The [[Bias (textile)|bias of a textile]] runs at 45 degrees to both the [[Warp and woof|warp and weft]] threads.]]

== Impluwensya ==
Si Madeleine Vionnet kinokonsiderar na saro sa pinakamapluwensiyang taga-desinyo nin moda kang ika-20 na siglo. An saiyang bias cut asin an saiyang urban na istilo naging patok sa kontemporaryong moda, mahihiling ini sa mga koleksyon kan mga taga-desinyo sa ngunyan arog ni [[Ossie Clark]], [[Halston]], [[John Galliano]], [[Comme des Garçons]], [[Azzedine Alaia]], [[Issey Miyake]] asin [[Marchesa]]. Sinabi ni Miyake manungod sa gibo ni Vionnet, "the impression was similar to the wonder one feels at the sight of a woman emerging from bathing, draped only in a single piece of beautiful cloth."<ref name=":5">{{Cite web|url=http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/09/27/vionnet-at-100/?_php=true&_type=blogs&_r=0|title=Vionnet at 100|date=27 September 2012|access-date=14 August 2014|website=T Magazine|publisher=New York Times|last=Ensha|first=Azadeh|author-link=Azadeh Ensha}}</ref>

Nagtaong inspirasyon si Vionnet ki [[Marcelle Chaumont]], ina kan awtor na si [[Madeleine Chapsal]]. Siya nagsirbing ninang ni  Chapsal.<ref name=":3">{{Cite web|url=http://www.avenuemontaigneguide.com/eng/eng/nosguides/madeleine-vionnet-a-giant-in-french-fashion|title=Madeleine Vionnet, a giant in french fashion|publisher=Avenue Montaigne|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140106194634/http://www.avenuemontaigneguide.com/eng/eng/nosguides/madeleine-vionnet-a-giant-in-french-fashion|archive-date=6 January 2014}}</ref>

== Mga Nota ==
<references />

== Bibliograpiya ==

* Madeleine Vionnet, Pamela Golbin, Patrick Gries, Rizzoli, 2009
* Madeleine Vionnet, Créatrice de Mode, Sophie Dalloz-Ramaux, Editions Cabedita, 2006
* Madeleine Vionnet, 3d Edition, Betty Kirke, Chronicle Books Editions, 2005
* Vionnet – Keizerin van de Mod, Exhibition Catalogue, 1999
* Madeleine Vionnet, 2d Edition, Betty Kirke, Chronicle Books Editions, 1998
* Vionnet, Fashion memoir series, Lydia Kamitsis, Thames & Hudson Editions, 1996
* Vionnet, Collection Mémoire de la Mode, Lydia Kamitsis, Editions Assouline, 1996
* L’Esprit Vionnet, Jéromine Savignon, Publication de l'Association pour l'Université de la Mode, 1994
* Madeleine Vionnet, Les Années d’Innovation, 1919–1939, Exhibition Catalogue, Publication du Musée des Tissus et des Arts décoratifs de Lyon, 1994
* Madeleine Vionnet, 1876-1975 : L’Art de la Couture, Catalogue d’Exposition, Publication du Musée de la Mode de Marseille, 1991
* Madeleine Vionnet, 1st Edition, Betty Kirke, Kyuryudo Art Publishing Editions, 1991
* Madeleine Vionnet, Jacqueline Demornex, Rizzoli Editions, 1991
* Madeleine Vionnet, Jacqueline Demornex, Editions du Regard, 1990
* La Chair de la Robe, [[Madeleine Chapsal]], Editions Fayard, 1989
* Madeleine Vionnet in ''[[What Am I Doing Here (book)|What Am I Doing Here?]]'', [[Bruce Chatwin]], 1988
* Madeleine Vionnet, ma mère et moi : L'éblouissement de la haute couture, [[Madeleine Chapsal]], Editions Michel Lafon 2010

== Panluwas na takod ==

* [https://web.archive.org/web/20090122073856/http://vionnet.com/ The House of Vionnet]
* {{FMD designer}}
* [http://dept.kent.edu/museum/exhibit/spirals/vionnet.htm Spirals & Ellipses: Clothing the Body Three-Dimensionally]
* [http://www.bettykirke.com/articles/threads/threads.html A dressmaker extraordinaire]
* {{cite web|publisher=[[Victoria and Albert Museum]]|url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/object_stories/madeleine_vionnet/index.html|title=Four haute couture dresses by Madeleine Vionnet|work=Fashion, Jewellery & Accessories|access-date=2010-09-14|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110107204047/http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/object_stories/madeleine_vionnet/index.html|archive-date=2011-01-07}}
* {{cite web|publisher=[[Victoria and Albert Museum]]|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O15566/evening-coat-madeleine-vionnet/|title=Evening coat|work=1936 fur coat|access-date=2014-10-07}}

{{commonscat|Madeleine Vionnet}}



{{DEFAULTSORT:Vionnet, Madeleine}}
[[Kategorya:French fashion designers]]
[[Kategorya:1876 births]]
[[Kategorya:1975 deaths]]
Si Madeleine Vionnet (; Hunyo  22, 1876, Loiret, France – Marso 2, 1975) sarong Pranses na taga desinyo nin moda. Si  Vionnet nag-adal sa London bago nagbalik sa Pransiya tanganing siya makatugdok nin saiyang enot sa fashion house sa Paris kan 1912. Dawa ining pwersang pinasara kan  1914 kan nagsiklab an enot na Giyera Mundial , nagbukas ini pakatapos kan giyera asin si  Vionnet saro sa  nangengenot na paradisenyo sa  tahaw nin giyera(1919-1939).  Napwersang ipasara an tindahan ni  Vionnet kan 1939 asin nagretiro kan 1940.

Inaapod man na "Queen of the bias cut" asin "the architect among dressmakers", si Vionnet midbid sa ngunyan sa saiyang istilong Grecian na pagbado asin nagpasikat sa  bias cut  sa moda asin nagtaong inspirasyon sa mga paradesinyo sa ngunyan.

 Biograpiya 
Pinangaki kan Hunyo 22, 1876 sa pobreng pamilya sa Chilleurs-aux-Bois, Loiret, si Vionnet naglipat sa Aubervilliers kaiba an saiyang ama sa edad na 5. Kan siya magpundo na sa pag-eskwela, siya nag-adal bilang paratahi kaiba an mga miyembro kan garde champêtre sa edad na dose. Sa halipot na pag-aguman sa edad na 18 asin pagkagadan kan saiyang aki sa edad na disiotso, binayaan niya an saiyang agom asin nagduman sa London para magtrabaho bilang paratahi sa hospital. Kan siya nasa London, si Vionnet nagtrabaho bilang fitter ni Kate Reily.

Nagbalik si Vionnet sa Paris, nagtrabaho nin anom na taon sa fashion house Callot Soeurs bilang paragibo nin toile.  Matapos magkaigwang dae pagkakaintindihan sa tagapamahala nin tindahan, nagtangka si Vionnet na maghali sa trabaho. Siya kinumbinsir kang matuang tugang kan mga Callot na si  Marie Callot Gerber, matapos tawan nin promosyon na mataong dalan para siya maggibo nin mga desinyo sa modelong si Gerber. Pinuri ni Vionnet si Marie Callot Gerber bilang "marhay na babayi" Sinabi niya "without the example of the Callot Soeurs, I would have continued to make Fords. It is because of them that I have been able to make Rolls Royces". An saiyang pagiging simple taliwas sa pagiging engrande kan fashion house.

Si Vionnet nag desinyo ki  Jacques Doucet sa tahaw kang taong1907 hanggang 1911; pero an saiyang istilo na mayong sapatos asin haluwag na bado nagkaigwang dae pagkakauyon sa istilo kan fashion house. Kan 1912, minukna niya an saiyang sadiring fashion house na "Vionnet", na nagsara kan 1914 nin huli sa giyera.  nagbukas si Vionnet nin bagong tindahan kan 1923 sa Avenue Montaigne na smidbid bilang "Temple of Fashion".Kan 1925, naglawak an saiyang tindahan sa Fifth Avenue, New York City. Nagtinda siyang mga usong bado.
thumb|318x318px|Vionnet evening gown, embroidered silk net, 1931
thumb|150x150px|The bias of a textile runs at 45 degrees to both the warp and weft threads.

 Impluwensya 
Si Madeleine Vionnet kinokonsiderar na saro sa pinakamapluwensiyang taga-desinyo nin moda kang ika-20 na siglo. An saiyang bias cut asin an saiyang urban na istilo naging patok sa kontemporaryong moda, mahihiling ini sa mga koleksyon kan mga taga-desinyo sa ngunyan arog ni Ossie Clark, Halston, John Galliano, Comme des Garçons, Azzedine Alaia, Issey Miyake asin Marchesa. Sinabi ni Miyake manungod sa gibo ni Vionnet, "the impression was similar to the wonder one feels at the sight of a woman emerging from bathing, draped only in a single piece of beautiful cloth."

Nagtaong inspirasyon si Vionnet ki Marcelle Chaumont, ina kan awtor na si Madeleine Chapsal. Siya nagsirbing ninang ni  Chapsal.

 Mga Nota 

 Bibliograpiya 

 Madeleine Vionnet, Pamela Golbin, Patrick Gries, Rizzoli, 2009
 Madeleine Vionnet, Créatrice de Mode, Sophie Dalloz-Ramaux, Editions Cabedita, 2006
 Madeleine Vionnet, 3d Edition, Betty Kirke, Chronicle Books Editions, 2005
 Vionnet – Keizerin van de Mod, Exhibition Catalogue, 1999
 Madeleine Vionnet, 2d Edition, Betty Kirke, Chronicle Books Editions, 1998
 Vionnet, Fashion memoir series, Lydia Kamitsis, Thames & Hudson Editions, 1996
 Vionnet, Collection Mémoire de la Mode, Lydia Kamitsis, Editions Assouline, 1996
 L’Esprit Vionnet, Jéromine Savignon, Publication de l'Association pour l'Université de la Mode, 1994
 Madeleine Vionnet, Les Années d’Innovation, 1919–1939, Exhibition Catalogue, Publication du Musée des Tissus et des Arts décoratifs de Lyon, 1994
 Madeleine Vionnet, 1876-1975 : L’Art de la Couture, Catalogue d’Exposition, Publication du Musée de la Mode de Marseille, 1991
 Madeleine Vionnet, 1st Edition, Betty Kirke, Kyuryudo Art Publishing Editions, 1991
 Madeleine Vionnet, Jacqueline Demornex, Rizzoli Editions, 1991
 Madeleine Vionnet, Jacqueline Demornex, Editions du Regard, 1990
 La Chair de la Robe, Madeleine Chapsal, Editions Fayard, 1989
 Madeleine Vionnet in What Am I Doing Here?, Bruce Chatwin, 1988
 Madeleine Vionnet, ma mère et moi : L'éblouissement de la haute couture, Madeleine Chapsal, Editions Michel Lafon 2010

 Panluwas na takod 

 The House of Vionnet
 
 Spirals & Ellipses: Clothing the Body Three-Dimensionally
 A dressmaker extraordinaire
 
 

Kategorya:French fashion designers
Kategorya:1876 births
Kategorya:1975 deaths