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Dress according to your physical appearance
Five stylish New Yorkers, of all shapes and sizes, share their experiences when choosing the most appropriate garments for their anatomy. The portal Mr. Porter gathers his advice here.
When Johnny Mercer wrote the lyrics to the song Accentuate The Positive, he was thinking about the mental state of a person, not his or her figure. Even so, accentuating the positive aspects of a person's body and minimizing negative aspects is a permanent challenge.
It seems that whatever your physical appearance, there is a very fine line by which you walk. But what is the difference between a lanky and a tall and attractive person? Between someone who is overweight and a person with a 'body'? The mind hesitates when it has in front of it a garment woven with horizontal stripes: is it a garment that thins or one that fattens?
For the sake of demystifying what looks good in five different physical aspects, we ask these five demanding and tasteful New Yorkers – each with a unique and personal style – to help us 'model' some guidelines so that next time that is contemplating a pleated trousers and a short blazer, know what to do.
For the thin man. Isaac Hindin-Miller, also known as Isaac Likes.
Born in New Zealand but resident of New York, Mr. Isaac Hindin-Miller is 31 years old and a DJ, male style writer and couples counselor. It's an incongruous mix that meets on its website, Isaaclikes.com.
Physical appearance. Waist: 30 inchesBeet: 36 inches Height: 1.82 meters
The problem: "In my childhood I was too skinny," says Hindin-Miller. "People hugged me and said things like, 'Oh, my God, are you okay?' Now I'm less for this, but sizes are still a problem, especially with American brands, which are always too loose, so I prefer to stick with European brands. "
The solution: Mr. Hindin-Miller no longer uses tight jeans, as they draw attention to his slender figure. "A thin man can play with volume to add shape to his silhouette," says stylist Mitchell Belk. "Pleated pants and box-like outerwear like this coat add dimension, making it look wider, and a thick fabric sweater is a good way to achieve a more voluminous silhouette." Hindin-Miller also has his own advice. His beard and abundant hair add volume to his head. "And I prefer a thick-soled shoe, because I think it balances the clothes I wear and gives me a little extra height – not so much in height, but in weight," he says. "
For the big man. Ahmir-Khalib Thompson, also known as Questlove.
The drummer of The Roots, star of The Tonight Show by Jimmy Fallon, DJ, record producer, restaurant owner, author, professor at the University of New York … Mr. Ahmir-Khalib Thompson, 44, is a true scholar 'miloficios'.
Physical appearance. Waist: Prefer not to say Height: 1.95 meters. Weight: Just under 136 kilos.
The problem: "Twenty years ago, I had 45 kg more, if it is possible to imagine something like that," says Thompson. "Now I have less than 136 kg and I am trying to reach 113. I am a big guy, you can not just buy my clothes in any store, many of my clothes are made to order so that I can stay. I always thought that if I wore a more distinguished dress, that would add age, but [at 40] I imagine that dressing like a 20-year-old boy, in jeans and T-shirts all day, would make me grow old. Even faster, when I started teaching, in a joking tone, I bought some of those teacher's jackets with patches on my elbows, and looking at myself in the mirror, I thought, "Oh, I think it looks good." Maybe this could be something new to me '".
The solution:"Tailored clothing helps give structure to any figure, but look for materials that fit in order to hide problem areas," suggests Belk. "It is better to stay with only one color to lengthen the body." Smooth dark colors, such as navy blue and bottle green, are more attractive than bright colors, although color and design can be incorporated through accessories such as a pocket handkerchief or silk scarf. Or, in Thompson's case, also lapel pins, eyeglasses and sneakers. "I tend to wear black, sometimes adding a bit of color, especially because the accessories can stand out more," says Thompson. "I focus on accessories, I have more than 2,
For the muscular man. Mr. Noé Neiman, 31, is one of the leading fitness experts in New York; He works with Victoria's Secret and Sports Illustrated models, as you can see by watching his enviable Instagram account. He is a master trainer for Barry's Bootcamp and a Bravo reality show star, Work Out New York, which documents New York's fitness obsession.
Physical appearance. Waist: 32 inches Width: 45 inches Height: 1.80 meters
The problem: "It is a problem of the first world, but it is difficult to find the right garment," says Neiman. "Usually, with jeans, the waist is adjusted, but not the calves or the quadriceps, the shirts are usually super tight, a lot of beefy guys want to show off their figure, but I know that a bit of subtlety looks much better. Thankful for the recent 'athleisure' trend, where fitness is combined with fashion, I'm a big fan, I can basically wear Nike training clothes almost every day and not stand out. "
The solution: "Far from gym clothes, the key idea here is to look for lightweight clothing with thin fabrications that have structural elements, but in an informal way so that there is an easy movement," says Belk. "T-shirts are ideal. Wearing a slightly longer coat or leaving the shirt outside can help to lengthen the torso, so that it is not just shoulders and chest.The jeans or skinny pants should not be too thin otherwise it will look very heavy at the top, look for straight pants, and I would suggest sturdy shoes for the same reason. "
For the tall man. Steven Rojas is a DJ at night in New York and a corporate digital director at Morgans Hotel Group by day. Rojas, 34, is a well-connected man in several cities – from Los Angeles to London to Istanbul. He is also a serious runner, who has competed in more than 100 races.
Physical appearance. Waist: 30 inchesBetter: 38 inchesHeight: 1.95 meters
The problem: "I do not find many disadvantages for being tall," says Rojas. "However, because I am also very thin, I can sometimes seem a bit ungainly, which made me self-conscious when I was a lanky teenager."
The solution: "Height is an attribute that should be emphasized rather than downplayed – in proportion," says Belk. "Slim pants with a small space on the ankle will help accentuate your long legs." A long coat is a smart way to balance the proportions of the torso and legs, so one half will not look longer than the other. Tall and slim can also easily accommodate layers like a turtleneck sweater or a scarf, this will give volume so that it does not look too ungainly and inelegant. Choose flat-soled shoes, unless you really want to stand out above all.
For the low man. Louge Delcy, known as Dapper Lou.
Louge Delcy, 28, is a Brooklyn stylist, brand consultant and photographer, whose strong contribution focused on Instagram fashion named him CFDA Instagrammer of the Year in 2014. His website, dapperlou.com, is now It has expanded beyond the street style towards art, travel, food and culture.
The problem: "Inconsistent sizing through branding is the main issue," says Delcy. "I had to get a lot of modified things, which is expensive, but it's usually worth it to avoid the stereotypical appearance of the boy in dad's suit."
The solution: "The two crucial factors for a low man are in form and proportion," says Belk. "If the pants cuffs or jacket sleeves are too long, this makes it look small." Wear socks the same color as the pants – visually, it helps to lengthen the legs. Narrow lapels, shallow necks and thin ties with small knots will work better with their structure. Look for Japanese brands, as they tend to offer a wider range for men under 1.75 meters.
Footwear is a useful tool to add one or two inches, so choose a pair of boots with a built-in heel, even a Cuban heel like Tom Ford's. "Delcy's feature is a felt hat, which adds a touch It also draws the attention of the highest people, but not all men can wear a hat, and if it is not worn naturally and with confidence, it can be counterproductive. "Another tip is use vertical stripes, like a trick to lengthen your torso, "says Delcy.
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