Vince Anderson climbed his first mountain in Colorado when he was five. He�s spent much of his adult life looking up � way up.
Head in the mist, fingers clinging to precarious rock face while scaling the world�s most grueling vertical ascents, Anderson�s led expeditions to the summits of Shisapangma, Denali, St. Elias, Logan and the Wrangells. He�s guided Mounts Robson and Assiniboine, and conquered 6,000-ft summits in Bolivia�s Cordillera Real and the major summits of the Western Alps.
�Rock climbing is physically challenging � do I have enough power or endurance to do the climb? Intellectually challenging � can I figure out the proper sequence to execute this section? And emotionally � can I overcome my fear of the consequences of failure?� says Anderson, owner and lead guide of Skyward Mountaineering in Colorado. He placed sixth in the Ice Climbing World Championships in Austria in 2002.
For rock climbers, failure can be shattering � on a good day, it�s a bruised ego. On a bad day, it�s broken bones and on a very bad day, a single misstep can result in death.
�Climbing is inherently dangerous, this is one of the beauties of the sport,� says Anderson, describing an all-encompassing activity dependent on trust and partnership. Climbers revel in spectacular scenery and personal freedom.
Anderson says some people have an innate talent for climbing,
�The strengths favored in climbing are similar to those of gymnastics. And like that sport, there are those that are simply predisposed to performing better with less training. Now that the sport is becoming more mainstream, you�re seeing kids with raw talent that can outperform many top adults.�
Climbing is a diverse sport with several variations, from traditional climbing with rope and partner to bouldering, which is done without protection at low height and focuses primarily on sequential movements and problem solving. Solo climbing is romantic and glamorous �no gear, no protection, just a solitary climber determined to summit.
�Climbers need very strong fingers, light weight, especially in the lower body, good balance and flexibility. Psychological traits include intense focus, ability to solve complex visual problems and you need to have the emotional capability to manage fear and not become overwhelmed,� says Anderson.
He recommends that novices possess a good fitness foundation.
�There are various types of climbing � slab, steep face, overhanging and crack, for instance � and some require a more specific type of fitness than others. Slab climbing is all about balance and footwork. A slightly overweight person can do well if they have a low center of gravity as most of the work is in the feet and not the hands. To climb steep overhanging rock you need fingers of steel and a relatively light frame, but not necessarily great aerobic fitness.�
If you want to become a good climber than you need to practice climbing, says Anderson, who suggests discovering your weaknesses and then exploiting them. �It�s the best way to get better. If you have a lot of strength, say you boulder a lot, and not so much aerobic fitness, then you may want to favor aerobic training over strength training.�
Know the dangers. Commit to safety. Take instruction from a good source. Master the basics of gear inspection, tie-in, rappel and belay, communication skills, knot tying, fundamental climbing techniques, first aid and rescue.
Investigate an indoor rock climbing gym � gear is supplied, lessons are inexpensive and safety is a priority.
Climb with an experienced partner whose skills are superior to yours.
Exercise for strength and endurance, flexibility and balance.
Concentrate on your forearms, biceps, hands, triceps, shoulders, back and abdominals.
Know the area you�re climbing.
Check the weather � never climb in rain, which makes things slippery, or storms because of lightening.
Start with easy routes and experiment with technique.
Observe and analyze the technique of expert climbers.
Don�t over-train.
�It pays to make sure you have a solid understanding of the risks involved and how to properly manage them for your ability and experience level. An instructor or guide is by far the best way to learn,� says Anderson, �because from 100 feet up, the ground is a terrible thing to taste.�