for centuries, peasant women typically wore a halter top () underneath a blouse or overcoat, alongside a skirt ("váy"). aristocrats, on the other hand, favored a cross-collared robe called "áo giao lĩnh", which bore resemblance to the korean hanbok, and the japanese kimono. in 1744, lord nguyễn phúc khoát of huế decreed that both men and women at his court wear trousers and a gown with buttons down the front. writer lê quý đôn described the newfangled outfit as an "áo dài" (long garment). the members of the southern court were thus distinguished from the courtiers of the trịnh lords in hanoi, who wore "áo giao lĩnh" with long skirts.