in the 1950s, saigon designers tightened the fit of the ao dai to create the version commonly seen today. trần kim of thiết lập tailors and dũng of dũng tailors created a dress with raglan sleeves and a diagonal seam that runs from the collar to the underarm. madame nhu, first lady of south vietnam, popularized a collarless version beginning in 1958. the ao dai was most popular from 1960 to 1975. a brightly colored "áo dài hippy" was introduced in 1968. the "áo dài mini", a version designed for practical use and convenience, had slits that extended above the waist and panels that reached only to the knee.