born jean dimitre verginie in alexandria, egypt, to greek parents, dessès originally set out to study law, but, in 1925, he abandoned his legal studies and began working for maison jane, a parisian couture house where, in 1937, he opened his own couture salon. after world war ii, he traveled extensively throughout the world. his work was influenced by his travels, creating draped evening gowns in chiffon, embroidered dresses, sheath dresses with tight jackets and flowing skirts. his fashion was very popular with european royalty and movie stars. among his clientele were the queen and royal princesses of greece, the duchess of windsor, madame jean (lilia) ralli, the first mrs. aristotle onassis, athina livanos, and society hostess elsa maxwell. in 1962, he designed the wedding gown worn by princess sophia of greece (later queen sofia of spain) for her marriage to the future king juan carlos i of spain. valentino worked with desses for several years in the 1950s and gained much hands-on experience, as did guy laroche who in the 1950s was desses' assistant.