chinese ming style clothing was forced on vietnamese people by the nguyễn dynasty. the tunics and trouser clothing of the han chinese on the ming and qing tradition was worn by the vietnamese. however, han-chinese clothing is assembled by several pieces of clothing including both pants and skirts called qun (裙) or chang (裳) which is a part of hanfu garments throughout the history of han chinese clothing. the ao dai was created when tucks which were close fitting and compact were added in the 1920s to this chinese style. the chinese clothing in the form of trousers and tunic were mandated by the vietnamese nguyen government. it was up to the 1920s in vietnam's north area in isolated hamlets where skirts were worn. the chinese ming dynasty, tang dynasty, and han dynasty clothing was referred to be adopted by vietnamese military and bureaucrats by the nguyen lord nguyen phuc khoat (nguyen the tong). chinese clothing started influencing vietnamese dress in the ly dynasty. the current ao dai was introduced by the nguyen lords.