a major controversy on sustainable fashion concerns how the "green" imperative is used as a cover-up for systemic labor exploitation, social exclusion and environmental degradation, what is generally labelled as greenwashing. market-driven sustainability can only address sustainability to a certain degree as brands still need to sell more products in order to be profitable. thus almost any initiative towards addressing ecological and social issues still contributes to the damage. in a 2017 report, the industry projects that the overall apparel consumption will rise by 63%, from 62 million tons today to 102 million tons in 2030, thus effectively erasing any environmental gains made by current initiatives.