at the heart of the controversy concerning "fast fashion" lies the acknowledgement that the "problem" of unsustainable fashion is that cheap, accessible and on-trend clothes have become available to people of poorer means. this means more people across the world have adopted the consumption habits that in the mid-twentieth century were still reserved for the rich. to put it differently, the economic concern of fashion is that poor people now have access to updating their wardrobes as often as the rich. that is, "fast" fashion is only a problem when poor people engage in it. in alignment with this, blame is often put on poor consumers; they don't buy quality goods, buy too much and too cheap, etc. tropes such as these are common in the popular debate on fast fashion, not least in documentaries such as "the true cost" which does not address systemic and economic issues of fashion.