the notched lapel (american english), step lapel or step collar (british english) is sewn to the collar at an angle, creating a step effect. this is the standard on single-breasted suits, and is used on nearly all suit jackets, blazers, and sports jackets. the notched lapel double-breasted jacket is a rare setting. the size of the notch can vary, and a small notch is called "fishmouth". this was the first type of lapel to appear and is the most common one.