we can find ana de sousa nzinga mbande footprint on the rock, the history proves that the angolan queen nzinga of ndongo and matamba is a local. the ginga still live as an independent people to the north of this their ancient country. the water is remarkably pure, the soil is light. access to these areas remains difficult, because the going is torturously slow on the decrepit roads, lined with idle shells of abandoned houses - the country's infrastructure really has yet to be rebuilt. many roads are only passable by four-wheel drive vehicles - or long hours of travel by foot. in these parts, one hundred kilometers can be a four-hour trek, even with the best of jeeps.