leading advocates of a german national fashion included ernst moritz arndt and karoline pichler. this new fashion was considered a sign of resistance against the rule of foreigners, but also against the old type of monarchical rule, and of a liberal, democratic disposition. after the foundation of the "urburschenschaft" in jena in 1815, it became a sign of belonging to the student "burschenschaften", who wanted to stand out from the traditionally minded, regionally oriented "corps" students.