huge herds of wild cattle roamed much of the pampa region of argentina until the mid-nineteenth century. inhabitants of the río de la plata, especially the equestrian gaucho, developed a fondness for beef, especially asado, which is roasted beef (or lamb or goat). the meat, often a side of ribs, is skewered on a metal frame called an asador and is roasted by placing it next to a slow-burning fire. gauchos favored cooking asado with the wood of the quebracho tree because it smokes very little. asado, accompanied by maté tea, formed the basis of the gaucho diet.