the challenge for making fashion more sustainable requires to rethink the whole system. the union of concerned researchers in fashion has argued that the industry is still discussing the same ideas as were originally mooted in the late 1980s and early 1990s. when taking the long view and examining fashion and sustainability progress since the 1990s, there are few actual advances in ecological terms. as the union observes, "so far, the mission of sustainable fashion has been an utter failure and all small and incremental changes have been drowned by an explosive economy of extraction, consumption, waste and continuous labour abuse."