you'd go down in the morning--i have my coffee before i go to work at the archives and really a coffee, nothing else--and there'd be this rather elderly lady in there, une mémère, comme on dit en français, and she would be tossing down a petite blancette, which is a little glass of white wine, and she would call the drink her gloria--now, that's mocking the church, because a gloria, what you sing and what other people were singing in the mass i guess, gloria in excelsis dei or whatever they sang, and she would have her gloria, right there at her zinc, and she'd knock a couple of those babies down and go off with her little shopping bag, maybe lurching and trying to avoid the sixty-eight bus as it roars by, and she was out of there.