a café, well i've already said that, and how they change because the days of the flipper machine are all gone, the pinball machine and all that, it just changes, and my god, now there's starbucks--i have nothing against starbucks, do i?--i don't know--but have arrived in paris now, and that's as much of a shock and, dare i say, blow as the arrival of mcdonalds all those years ago.