Title:
Insights into the structure of covalently bound fatty acid monolayers on a simplified model of the hair epicuticle from molecular dynamics simulations.

Abstract:
The epicuticle is the outermost layer of the human hair, and consists of a monolayer of fatty acids that is predominantly 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) covalently bound to a protein matrix. Surprisingly, despite the clear scientific and industrial importance, the detailed molecular structure of this fatty acid layer is still poorly understood. In this work, we aim to gain insight into the structure of this so-called F-layer by performing molecular dynamics simulations on a simplified hair surface model consisting of a monolayer of 18-MEA covalently attached to graphene sheets at various separation distances. The relative free energy of the fatty acid layer was calculated as a function of separation distance in order to obtain the optimal packing density of the fatty acids. Conformational properties such as the thickness, tilt angle, and order parameter of the fatty acid layers were also calculated to characterize the structure of the F-layer. Simulations of the structurally similar eicosanoic acid (EA) were also performed as a comparison and to investigate the role of the anteiso-methyl side chain at the 18th position of 18-MEA. The degree of water penetration into the fatty acid layer at the various separation distances was also investigated. Our simulations suggest that the optimal spacing for the fatty acids is between 0.492 and 0.651 nm, in contrast to the generally accepted literature value of around 0.9-1.0 nm. This results in a packing density of between 0.21 and 0.37 nm(2) per fatty acid molecule and a thickness of around 2.01-2.64 nm. We also show that, at larger separation distances, the 18-MEA fatty acid provides a slightly better hydrophobic layer than the EA fatty acid, suggesting that the 18-MEA fatty acid may have been naturally selected to provide better protection for the hair when it loses some of the fatty acids due to daily wear and tear. To our knowledge, this is the first attempt to systematically investigate the hair surface structure and properties with molecular simulations.