It's impossible to talk about streetwear without discussing designer Hiroshi Fujiwara. In the late ’80s, Hiroshi made a name for himself in Japan as one of Tokyo's first hip-hop DJs and with his clothing label, Goodenough, and then went on to mentor kids who became fashion legends in their own right, like Nigo (Bape) and Jun Takahashi (Undercover). Today, he's churning out collaborations via his brand Fragment Design, which currently has ongoing relationships with Apple, Nike, Off-White, and even Starbucks (seriously, check it out for yourself). Anything the man touches becomes a must-have to fans of streetwear, because he practically invented the culture itself. Line-ups, quickstrike sneaker releases, and even higher-priced T-shirts can in some way all be credited to the man many call the "Godfather of Streetwear" (though, as we found out, it's a nickname he doesn't much like). We caught up with Hiroshi at NikeLab in New York City, where he was celebrating the release of his latest Nike collab, the Air Trainer 1, to talk music, sneakers, and his opinion on the world of hype he helped create.

I recently watched a video of you performing "Thinking About You" by Sister Sledge on Japanese television. How did that performance come about, and why that song?

They asked me to perform a few songs, one of which was my original song, and the other was supposed to be a cover. I always loved that song, even when it came out in 1977. I was in high school, and I bought the album.

People always call you the "Godfather of Streetwear" or "Godfather of Harajuku." How do you feel about that title? Does it come with certain responsibilities?

I think it's just hype. There are no godfathers. Streetwear was happening everywhere at the same time, in New York, London, Tokyo...so it's not only me.

Who else would you consider your peers as far as seminal streetwear designers?

I think Shawn Stussy is the main guy. He's from surf culture, but I kind of mix up surf culture and fashion and music. I'm good at mixing the cultures in my designs, too, I think.

Is there new music that inspires you when designing new products?

I don't listen to many new things, mostly old things. I don't really listen to music that much. I listen to it in the car, or on an airplane, but not at the office so much. But it's kind of random what I listen to; I just have all my music, and the songs just select randomly.

You've collaborated with so many great brands over the years. What do you love about collaboration so much?

I always try to collaborate person-to-person, not with brands. So I have a few guys at Nike I like working with. I like mixing my ideas with their ideas, not from the brand's ideas, but from personal ideas. I will work with anyone at any brand if I like them, whether young or old. I love working with Tinker [Hatfield, Nike sneaker designer] and Mark Parker [CEO of Nike] because they are older and have a lot of knowledge.

How do you feel about high-fashion sneakers, particular ones that copy iconic Nike styles?

I think they are not sneakers. I think there is a big gap between sneakers, trainers, and designer silhouettes. I don't call these styles sneakers, I call them designer shoes that look like sneakers. I don't really wear them, but I understand why people would want to wear them. Sometimes, design, they are really good.

Your sneakers, especially your recent Air Jordan 1 collaboration, are often hard to get. How do you feel about the limited-edition nature of sneaker releases these days? Is it still as necessary as it once was?

I don't really make sneakers to make them limited. It's up to Nike to determine how much they want to make. And the thing about the Air Jordan 1 is that it's not too small; I think it was a somewhat larger release. Sometimes they're hard to get, but when I was young, it was more difficult to get what I wanted [than it is for kids today]. There was no Internet. If I saw something in a magazine, I had to call them or actually go there. Many young kids complain, "Oh, I won't be able to get this sneaker again." But you can, if you're lucky. There's many shoes out there. I want everyone to have it who wants to have it. But it's hard because so many people buy them just to make money. And I don't like that. And sometimes it's good to work hard to get a sneaker, because otherwise you won't buy it.