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The answer, at least a partial one: eggs. Eggs, specifically egg yolks, play several roles in homemade ice cream. You can make tasty ice cream without them, but there's a reason that almost every recipe published in the last 50 years calls for them. After water, egg yolks are mostly fat and protein.
Several years ago, concerns about egg safety prompted us to cook any ice-cream base that used fresh eggs. Not to worry; this recipe doesn't use eggs. Instead, the mixture gets incredible richness from sweetened condensed milk. Use our basic vanilla ice cream as a base, and try every delicious flavor.