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The answer, at least a partial one: eggs. Eggs, specifically egg yolks, play several roles in homemade ice cream. You can make tasty ice cream without them, but there's a reason that almost every recipe published in the last 50 years calls for them. After water, egg yolks are mostly fat and protein.
1 Sprinkle gelatin over water in a small bowl; let stand, stirring once or twice, while you make the base for the ice cream. 2  Pour 1 1/2 cups milk into a large saucepan. Add cocoa and chocolate to the milk.  Heat the milk mixture over medium heat until steaming. Whisk egg yolks and condensed milk in a medium bowl.