Nevertheless, into the middle of the 20th century, Charvet was selling only bespoke shirts in the Paris store. In 1908, Charvet was the first European company to import American suits hand tailored in Chicago. The name "Charvet" was so well known that it became associated with a certain silk fabric for ties ("See Charvet (fabric)"). Charvet's notability also extended to other items of clothing, such as shirts, shirtings, ties, gloves, dress suits, waistcoats (see image, left), undergarments, pocketchieves, and women's waistbands or shirtwaists (See figures left), worn with special models of ties for ladies, such as one called "le juge" modeled after a judge's lappets. The Chicago Tribune reported in 1909 that Charvet was showing "scarf pins that match in color any scarf that may be bought and some have the same designs carried out in them done in enamel. There are also waistcoasts buttons to be worn with certain ties and there are sets of these, cufflinks, and pins, all of which exactly match". Charvet also supplied silk bed-sheets in colours such as black, green, mauve or violet. In the early 20th century, Charvet launched a toilet water, in a rectangular beveled bottle. One of the customers for this perfume was Boy Capel, Coco Chanel's lover. In 1921, two years after his accidental death, the flacon of Chanel's famous Nº 5 perfume was produced in the image of the Charvet bottle. Like many European companies, Charvet was greatly affected by World War I: "our looms have been destroyed, our collections pillaged, our printing blocks burned". Nevertheless, it continued to send representatives to the United States to show collections of novelties. After 1912, with the development of the Art Deco style, Charvet, along with fashion designer Paul Poiret, started to commission art work from the French painter Raoul Dufy, the "granddaddy of modem chic", through the French weaver Bianchini-Férier. Some of the first were related to the war, such as "Les Alliés" or the "Victory Rooster" (Figure, left). This was followed by more silk squares, woven silk fabrics for vests, and printed ramie fabrics for dressing gowns and shirts. Some famous customers of the period were fashion designer Coco Chanel and the Maharadjah of Patiala who once placed a single order of 86 dozen shirts.