Red was a popular colour for wealthy women, partly because of its cultural association with youth and passion, and partly because the dyederived from safflowerwas very expensive, so a bright red garment was an ostentatious display of wealth. Indian fabrics, brought to Japan by Dutch importers, were received with enthusiasm and found many uses. The collection includes a flamboyant under-kimono for a man made by combining these finely patterned fabrics with plain-weave silk and cotton. Other items show that Japanese designers started printing designs that were influenced by the Indian patterns. Another example in the collection uses fabric imported from Britain or France: ownership of this exotic textile signified wealth and taste, but it was worn as an undergarment where the design would not be seen. Worn by less wealthy merchants, lower down the social scale, are kimono made of cotton or ramie and dyed with indigo, with less dense designs but still a variety of dyes, patterns and techniques. The Meiji era was a period of modernisation and industrialisation, during which Japan opened itself to the world. It saw a rapid introduction of Western culture to Japan, and also of Japanese culture into Europe and America, where kimono became an object of fascination. The production of kimono started to use Western technologies such as synthetic dye, and decoration was sometimes influenced by Western motifs. The textile industry modernised rapidly and silk from Tokyo's factories became Japan's principal export. Cheap synthetic dyes meant that bold purples and reds, previously restricted to the wealthy elite, could be owned by anyone. Faster and cheaper manufacture allowed more people to afford silk kimono, and enabled designers to create new patterns. The Emperor issued a proclamation promoting Western dress over the allegedly effeminate Japanese dress. Fukuzawa Yukichi journeyed to Europe and the United States and the books he wrote about Western clothing and customs were influential. So Western dress became popular in the public sphere: many men adopted Western dress in the workplace, although kimono were still the norm for men at home and for women. In the 1890s the kimono reasserted itself, with people wearing bolder and brighter styles. A new type called the bridged the gap between formal dress and everyday dress. The Khalili Collection has items that illustrate the trends of the Meiji era. Several have a plain, bold colour with elaborate design around the hem. The technology of the time allowed for subtle colour gradients rather than abrupt changes of colour.