In Poland and Ukraine, a separate category ("nalyvka" in Ukraine and "nalewka" in Poland) is used for vodka-based spirits with fruit, root, flower, or herb extracts, which are often home-made or produced by small commercial distilleries. Their alcohol contents vary between 15 and 75%. In Estonia, vodkas are available with barberry, blackcurrant, cherry, green apple, lemon, vanilla and watermelon flavors. In most cases, vodka flavoring comes from a post-distillation infusion of flavors. Through the fermentation process, grain mash is transformed into a neutral alcohol beverage that is unflavored. The process of flavoring vodka so that it tastes like fruits, chocolate, and other foods occurs after fermentation and distillation. Various chemicals that reproduce the flavor profiles of foods are added into vodka to give it a specific taste. According to "The Penguin Book of Spirits and Liqueurs", "Its low level of fusel oils and congeners—impurities that flavour spirits but that can contribute to the after-effects of heavy consumption—led to its being considered among the 'safer' spirits, though not in terms of its powers of intoxication, which, depending on strength, may be considerable." Since the year 2000, due to evolving consumer tastes and regulatory changes, a number of 'artisanal vodka' or even 'ultra premium vodka' brands have appeared. The success of grape-based vodka in the United States in the early twenty-first century prompted traditional vodka producers in the Vodka Belt countries of Poland, Finland, Estonia, Lithuania, and Sweden to campaign for EU legislation that would define "vodka" as only spirits made from grain or potatoes. This proposition provoked heavy criticism from South European countries, which often distill used mash from wine-making into spirits; although higher quality mash is usually distilled into some variety of pomace brandy, lower-quality mash is better turned into neutral-flavored spirits instead. Any vodka not made from either grain or potatoes would have to display the products used in its production. This regulation entered into force in 2008. Under Canadian regulations, Vodka is a potable alcoholic beverage created by treatment of grain spirit or potato spirit with charcoal, which renders the product without aroma, taste or distinctive character. Pursuant to the Code of Federal Regulations (27 CFR 5.22), which define the identity standards for various alcohols, vodka is in the class of neutral spirits and is defined as: "neutral spirits so distilled, or so treated after distillation with charcoal or other materials, as to be without distinctive character, aroma, taste, or color".