In the European Middle Ages, mugwort was used as a magical protective herb. Mugwort was used to repel insects – especially moths – from gardens. Mugwort has also been used from ancient times as a remedy against fatigue and to protect travelers against evil spirits and wild animals. Roman soldiers put mugwort in their sandals to protect their feet against fatigue. Mugwort is one of the nine herbs invoked in the pagan Anglo-Saxon "Nine Herbs Charm", recorded in the 10th century in the Lacnunga. Grieve's "Modern Herbal" (1931) states that "in the Middle Ages, the plant was known as , it being believed that John the Baptist wore a girdle of it in the wilderness...a crown made from its sprays was worn on St. John's Eve to gain security from evil possession, and in Holland and Germany one of its names is 'St. John's plant', because of the belief that – if gathered on St. John's Eve – it gave protection against diseases and misfortunes." In the Isle of Man, mugwort is known as "bollan bane", and is still worn on the lapel at the Tynwald Day celebrations, which also have strong associations with St John. There are several references to the Chinese using mugwort in cuisine. The famous Chinese poet Sū Shì in the 11th century mentioned it in one of his poems. There are even older poems and songs that can be tracked back to 3 BC. It was often called () or () in Mandarin. Mugwort can be prepared as a cold dish or can be stir-fried with fresh or smoked meat. The Hakka Taiwanese also use it to make "chhú-khak-ké" (), doughy sweet dumplings. Mugwort is also used as a flavoring and colorant for a seasonal rice dish. In traditional Chinese medicine, mugwort is used in a pulverized and aged form – called "" in English (from Japanese "mogusa") – to perform moxibustion, that is, to burn on specific acupuncture points on the patient's body to achieve therapeutic effects. In Germany, known as , it is mainly used to season goose, especially the roast goose traditionally eaten for Christmas. Mugwort – or – is used in a number of Japanese dishes, including "yōkan", a dessert, or "kusa mochi", also known as "yomogi mochi".