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"Hello,\n\nThe reason you have been waiting so long is because you opted out the expert who\nwas working with you. She then had to find me to help you, then I had to type up\nyour answer. It takes a while to type a quality answer, and most customers would\nrather wait a bit for a good answer, than get a two sentence answer quickly. if\nyou still want a refund after reading my answer, just let me know by clicking on\nREPLY, and I'll take care of it.\n\n\n\nThe symptoms you're seeing often indicate a parasite infestation. bloating most\noften occurs with Coccidia or Giardia. You'll need to see a reptile vet since\nthere si nothing you can do at home to treat parasite infestations. Make an\nappointment for glen, and also take along (in a plastic bag) a fresh sample of\nhis droppings for the vet to examine. This link will take you to a directory of\nreptile vets:\n\n \n\n\nhttp://www.anapsid.org/vets/index.html#vetlist\n[http://www.anapsid.org/vets/index.html#vetlist]\n\n \n\nA few adjustments would make Glen's diet better. Collard greens, mustard greens,\ndandelion greens, escarole and curly endives are great staples. Butternut squash\nand various berries are great for a treat. Veggies should be put in fresh daily,\nand done about an hour after lights on. At this age, they need 80% veggies daily\nand 20% live prey. The live prey should include crickets, silk worms, roaches,\ngoliath worms and phoenix worms. Super worms and wax worms are like giving the\nDragon candy. All veggies and prey should be dusted with calcium daily 5 days a\nweek and vitamins 2 days a week. The spinach binds calcium and the bok choi is\nan occasional vegetable.I recommend that all beardie owners read the feeding\ninformation on this reliable site:\n\n \n\nhttp://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html\n[http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html]\n\n \n\nI’m sending along a care sheet, courtesy of Joan, who you worked with earlier.\nJoan has many years experience keeping and rescuing beardies. I suggest that you\nuse the care sheet as a check list to provide the best possible care for your\nbeardies. If you have more questions, just let me know by clicking on REPLY. I\nhope you'll be able to quickly get glen into a vet and that he will reach a full\nrecovery.\n\nAnna\n\n(If you find my answer helpful, please click on the green ACCEPT button. Thank\nyou.)\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBearded Dragon Care Sheet\n\n* Bearded dragons should be housed alone.\n\n* Ages of bearded dragons follow these guidelines:\n\n1. 0-3 months- baby\n2. 3-12 months-juvenile\n3. 12-18 months- sub adult\n4. 18 months + -adult\n\n* Bearded dragons live as much as 10-12 years if well cared for properly.\n* Bearded dragons have a very good temperament as long as they are cared for and\nhandled.\n* When you bring your baby home, it may be quite stressful to him/her to get use\nto new home. May not eat well the first 2-3 days. They may not need to be\nhandled the first 2-3 days if skittish and nervous.\n* Never use sand or any other type of loose substrate: Loose substrates can\ncause impaction (not being able to go Poop) in all ages of bearded dragons- they\nlick their environment to explore .It is difficult to keep germ free and clean.\nCeramic tile, newspaper, non adhesive shelf liner and reptile carpet is what is\nmost recommended. Use paper towels for the little one and as they get bigger you\ncan change to something else.\n* Be sure you keep your beardies home as clean as you can. Clean up by spot\ncleaning when needed. Clean & sanitize entire tank every 10-14 days. A good\ncleaning solution is a 20% bleach solution. If you choose to use wood climbing\nbranches etc, these should be soaked in the bleach solution and rinsed well.\nThen bake in 250 degree oven for 30 minutes.\n* Need a climbing accessory: to bask and to warm up under basking heat light and\nlower branches or platforms to come down and cool off.\n* A hide of some sort like a cave.\n* A food dish and water dish.\n* Plastic spray bottle\n* Can use artificial plants when they get older- 3 months or so.\n* Digital thermostat and/or temp gun\n* Tank size: Minimal size tank for this age is 20 gallon long\n* Minimal size for older beardie: 4 months of age: 40 gallon breeder is the\nminimal tank size for older dragon. Can divide a 40 gallon breeder for a smaller\ndragon. Must have two lights for your beardie.\n\n1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank.\nYour dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get\nmetabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie\noutside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees\nor above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store.\nNever leave a beardie outside unattended.\n2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your\nbeardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.\n\n* Lights should be on for 12-14 hours each day. Follow the seasons and light\ntimers are a great luxury if you can get them. 6 dollars at Lowe's. No lights or\nwarmth needed at night unless your temperatures get below 62 degrees. If they\ndo, there are ceramic heat emitters that put out no light, only heat. Use these\nat night if temperatures fall below 62 degrees.\n\n\n\n* Temperatures have to be kept at the following ranges during the day:\n\nBabies: Warm basking log: 110-125 degrees F (43.5* to 51.5*C)\nCool side: 85-90 (29.5* to 32*C)\nAdults: Warm basking spot: 105-115F (40.5*C to 46*C)\n\nCool side: 80-85F (27*C to 29*C)\n\nMeasure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these\nare most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.\n\n* Feeding a Beardie: Beardies eat live prey consisting of crickets, roaches\nand/or silkworms. Never feed any size of mice to your beardie. Never feed\nmealworms. They also must be given greens/veggies everyday. The younger they are\nthe more live prey they should have. As they grow older the live prey decreases\nand the veggies/greens should be the major part of diet. Never feed anything\nbigger, than the space between your beardie's eyes. This includes both live prey\nand pieces of veggies/greens,\n* A chopper or food processor is a huge help when your beardie is small. Always\noffer greens and veggies: collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens,\ncabbage, red cabbage, fresh green beans, yellow summer squash, butternut squash,\nsweet potato, cactus pad. Apricots, strawberries, apples, blueberries,\nraspberries, cantaloupe- fruits are treats only.\n* What is live prey? The easiest and less expensive live prey is crickets when\nyou have a young or first beardie. The other live preys you can feed are\nsilkworms, and special types of roaches. You can learn to raise your own live\nprey. Treats can be waxworms, super worms, and tomato/goliath worms. You may\nfind that ordering live prey from the internet is the way to go..... Never leave\nlive prey or greens/veggies in tank overnight. . Crickets can bite your beardie\nwhen sleeping.\n* Babies should get 80% live prey, and 20 % greens/veggies. But since the\ngreens/veggies are a must when they are older, get them eating their\ngreens/veggies very early. Give greens/veggies in small pieces everyday. You\nshould eventually start decreasing your older dragon's protein intake when they\nare about a year to 15 months old. Their protein intake decreases to 20 % live\nprey and 80% veggies/greens.\n* A baby can eat 50-75 crix a day. Never feed crix or veggies bigger than the\nspace between your beardie's eyes. Use this guide when buying crix or chopping\nyour greens/veggies.\n* You must provide calcium dust without D3 and multivitamin dust for your\nbeardie. You should dust the live prey with calcium one time a day, and vitamins\n3 times a week. Just collect your live prey into baggie and add enough calcium\nand vitamin to dust them. Then pour a few at a time into your tank. Some people\nfeed their beardie in a separate tank so that no crickets can hide. Or some take\nout \"furniture\" from tank and feed this way. As they get older, 4-5 months or so\ndust live prey with calcium 3 times a week.\n* Feed the veggies/ greens 1st thing in morning after lights on for one hour at\nleast. Then after 2-3 hours offer crix. Then freshen green/veggies. Then give\nmore crix. Make sure after last crix feeding there is at least 1-2 hours of\nlights so that they can digest their food before night time.\n\n*Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a\nBrumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of hibernation that is\ngoverned by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter\nperiod at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not\nfeed live prey during Brumation.\n\nWater: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also\noffer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too\nsmall to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old\nyou can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot.\nIt will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the\nbathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be\nthoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if\nbathing more than one.\n\n\n\n\n\n "
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