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"\"&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heavy Water: Reef McIntosh and Derek Dunfee On Big Wave Surfing&lt;\\/strong&gt;&lt;br \\/&gt;\\nWith the winter surf season quickly approaching us, we took some time to see what a couple of the worlds best big wave surfers have been doing in order to prepare for the 2012\\/13 winter surf season. It\\u2019s interesting to note that La Jolla\\u2019s Derek Dunfee and Hawaiian charger Reef McIntosh are polar opposite in preparation, but always tend to snag the biggest and baddest waves of the day.&lt;strong&gt;\\u2014JC&lt;\\/strong&gt;&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TransWorld SURF: What do you to prepare for the big stuff?&lt;\\/strong&gt;&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;Reef McIntosh: I surf the small stuff to prepare for the big stuff. You can prepare as much as you want but I\\u2019ve always found that surfing is the best preparation. It\\u2019s great to keep your cardio up, do yoga, and all that stuff but I\\u2019m not that disciplined and I find that stuff boring.&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;Derek Dunfee: Last year I worked with a trainer named Rob Garcia and created a handbook of what we did. So this year I\\u2019ve been using that and doing a lot of running, bike riding, and long paddles. I just try to stay super active and get my strength and conditioning up. After seeing a few guys drown, Sion Milosky and Noel Robinson, it freaked me out and made me take these extra steps to be as prepared as I could.&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So it\\u2019s the morning of the first big swell. What\\u2019s going through your head and what\\u2019s your routine?&lt;\\/strong&gt;&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;Reef McIntosh: Get up and eat some toast\\u2014but no coffee when it\\u2019s big! When I drink coffee I tend to skitz out and make bad decisions. And I\\u2019m not one to paddle out in the dark\\u2014I like to watch it for about an hour. Drink water while I\\u2019m doing that, stretch, pace around the yard. I like to take a nice paddle out and get in tune with the ocean. I also like to catch a few warm up waves, smaller ones, and get the feel for my big canoe-like board.&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;Derek Dunfee: I wake up and drink a huge glass of water. After that I\\u2019ll eat something\\u2014I\\u2019ve been into oatmeal lately. Then I\\u2019ll have a small cup of coffee or shot of espresso. It\\u2019s kind of a steady buzz and I don\\u2019t get out of the water feeling nauseous or overly hungry.&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So you\\u2019re warmed up, at the spot, and feeling good. What gets you over the ledge on a big one?&lt;\\/strong&gt;&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;Reef McIntosh: Seeing other people do it. I get psyched to see a guy like Kohl Christensen or Dave Wassel get a good one. It gives you motivation\\u2014you definitely feed off the other guys out there. There\\u2019s an underlying competitiveness out there, that\\u2019s how it gets pushed to the next level.&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;Derek Dunfee: First of all, I love to surf. I\\u2019ll surf twice a day all week so when I do get out in the big stuff and finally get a bomb, I can pop up and be super in tune with my surfing. So I\\u2019ll just paddle straight to where I want to sit and try not to think too much. It\\u2019s hard to turn your brain off like that but sometimes I\\u2019m feeling so good and in tune with the ocean that it comes easy. That said, I\\u2019ve had days where it was big and perfect but I paddled in because I just wasn\\u2019t feeling it. I try not to force it.&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do you conquer the fear?&lt;\\/strong&gt;&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;Reef McIntosh: Either you eat shit or get a really good wave. If you eat it and don\\u2019t die, you\\u2019re like, \\u2018That wasn\\u2019t too bad, and I didn\\u2019t die.\\u2019 That or you get a bomb and you\\u2019re like \\u2018That was a bomb, I want a bigger one!\\u2019 That said, if your inside is telling you \\u2018No, it\\u2019s too big,\\u2019 you probably shouldn\\u2019t go out. Like the first time I surfed Mavericks, I was thinking, \\u2018F\\u2014k, I don\\u2019t even belong out here.\\u2019 I was lost and following people around kinda clueless. I got four waves though.&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;Derek Dunfee: It\\u2019s not something that just happens\\u2014it comes with time. I think that\\u2019s why guys like Nathan Fletcher, Bruce Irons, and Shane Dorian are the best big wave riders in the world\\u2014they\\u2019re all like 5-10 years older than me and super experienced. Anyway, on a big day I\\u2019ll wake up and I\\u2019m kinda nervous but you can\\u2019t feed into that. I know I\\u2019ve trained mentally and physically for months so I\\u2019m like \\u2018I\\u2019m ready for it.\\u2019&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What\\u2019s the best bit of advice you\\u2019ve got regarding surfing big waves?&lt;\\/strong&gt;&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;Reef McIntosh: Take baby steps and slowly get comfortable in bigger surf. Start at somewhere like Sunset when it\\u2019s big, then slowly work your way up. Hit a couple outer reefs when it\\u2019s breaking but not huge. Then, when you\\u2019re out on a really big day sit way wide in the channel and take it all in nice and slow. There\\u2019s no rush at all.&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;Derek Dunfee: Do it for yourself and not to talk about it with other people. Do it because you love it. Train and get ready and understand that it\\u2019s a lifelong pursuit\\u2014you\\u2019re probably not going to get a big wave for three to five years. Watch how guys do it from the channel and get used to sitting on a ten-foot board.&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What spots do you have on your radar for this winter?&lt;\\/strong&gt;&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;Reef McIntosh: Anywhere that\\u2019s exciting and unpredictable. I like it all; Fiji, Puerto, Off The Wall, Pipe, wherever the waves are exciting. I don\\u2019t wanna be pigeon holed as a big wave only guy\\u2014I like it all.&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;Derek Dunfee: My main focus is going to be Mavericks and Hawaii. There are a lot of good big-wave spots I want to surf in Hawaii\\u2014but really it just depends on what the jet stream is doing where the swells are going. It\\u2019s really exciting to see the performance level going up, it gets me pumped to go bigger and sit deeper.&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;&lt;img class=\\\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1000153761\\\" title=\\\"Reef_Derek_Heavy_Water\\\" src=\\\"http:\\/\\/www.grindtv.com\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2012\\/10\\/Reef_Derek_Heavy_Water.jpg\\\" alt=\\\"Reef_Derek_Heavy_Water\\\" width=\\\"640\\\" height=\\\"360\\\" \\/&gt;&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=\\\"http:\\/\\/www.livelikejay.com\\/\\\" target=\\\"_blank\\\"&gt;&lt;em&gt;Chasing Mavericks&lt;\\/em&gt;&lt;\\/a&gt;, the Jay Moriarity story, premieres this Friday, October 26 at theaters nationwide&lt;\\/strong&gt;&lt;\\/p&gt;\\n\""^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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