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" Tuesday night at New York&amp;#039;s Soho Grand Hotel, George Esquivel \u2014 the master of handmade footwear and designer for Fratelli Rossetti \u2014 was in town fitting new clients for his bespoke shoes. It&amp;#039;s a process that usually requires Esquivel to mail fit pairs back and forth from his factory in California, making small tweaks along the way. In between getting very close to some very lucky pairs of feet, the accidental cobbler explained what to look for in a pair of shoes for the summer, why you should never go sockless (in a pair of Esquivel&amp;#039;s, at least), and how to fit a baller with a size 15 foot. Plus: what he puts on his own two feet. For summer? If they&amp;#039;re gonna be worn through fall: suede chukkas. Or suede, in general, in a light color. Calfskin, too, because it&amp;#039;s not as heavy. With the men, they&amp;#039;re not as obsessed as women. They want that perfect shoe re-made, the one they remember from a long time ago. It&amp;#039;s nostalgic. It&amp;#039;s up to you: Europeans like their shoes a lot tighter, but Americans want things a little bit softer. A little more flexible. Looser. It should never hurt. They&amp;#039;re used to sneakers on the court, so the perception is that they want something loose and comfortable. But the shanks inside the shoe are much thicker \u2014 to support heavy feet \u2014 and, on the wingtips, we have to double up all the stitches. The shoes I&amp;#039;m wearing? They&amp;#039;re not technically sound. I just like them really comfortable. They won&amp;#039;t last. I can just make a new pair, you know? Once a shoe ends up smelling, you can never get rid of that smell. But if you&amp;#039;re gonna go sockless, just do it. The Italians are too precise [with invisible ankle socks]. It&amp;#039;s very methodical. In America, it&amp;#039;s a bit more rocker, a bit more western. That&amp;#039;s our heritage. That&amp;#039;s what I like. Or just get one pair you don&amp;#039;t wear socks with. Driving moccasins. My feet don&amp;#039;t smell. Suede boots ($900, esquivelshoes.com); Painted Sole Lace-ups ($900, at Bergdorf Goodman in August). PLUS: 20 Must-Have Pairs for Summer 2011 &amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;gt;  "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
<http://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/a10081/george-esquivel-summer-dress-shoes-060811/>