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"Est\u00E9e Lauder, Bobbi Brown, and More: 5 Innovators Who&amp;#39;ve Changed the Face of American Beauty\\nOver-the-top Hollywood glamour. The pampering of a spa. The no-makeup makeup look. These five innovators built cosmetics empires from scratch, and much of what we take for granted about American beauty today can be traced to them. A look at what hard work and brilliant salesmanship can create&amp;#8212;and our favorite products from the companies that resulted.\\n__THEN:__ Lauder's message was about taste and breeding, and the subtle sophistication that her makeup, skin care, and fragrances could convey. She favored a softly feminine color palette and advocated restraint in application (for an effect she called \\\"Est\u00E9e Lauder's soft magic\\\"). She made opulence seem easy and believed that class and status, with the right makeup or fragrance, was perfectly attainable.\\n__NOW:__ We love the __Sumptuous Extreme Lash Multiplying Volume mascara.__ It plumps lashes without clumping, fans them out to maximum effect, and lengthens without looking fake. (Est\u00E9e would surely approve.)\\n__THEN:__ Arden opened her first day spa in 1910 and nurtured an entirely new spa culture based on youth and renewal and lots of pampering. In the 1930s, *The New York Times* said that Arden \\\"convinced women that they could attain that mysterious thing called beauty if they permitted themselves to be steamed, rolled, massaged, and bathed in wax in her sumptuously decorated salon.\\\" With her nurse's training, she introduced cosmetic chemistry into the development of her creams and lotions\u2014a novel practice at the time, which is now the industry standard.\\n__NOW:__ Beauty insiders can't get enough of [Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream Skin Protectant.](http://www.allure.com/beauty-products/skin/2010/elizabeth-arden-eight-hour-cream) Besides offering up serious hydration, this rich cream is often used by makeup artists backstage at fashion shows to add a little shine to models' eyelids.\\n__THEN:__ Makeup as stardust, as escapism\u2014that was Russian refugee Max Factor's contribution to the American beauty aesthetic. As a makeup artist in the golden age of Hollywood, Factor was instrumental in creating the ferocious glamour that we associate with screen legends such as Carole Lombard, Jean Harlow, and Joan Crawford. Then he packaged and sold the celluloid dream of perfection in Max Factor of Hollywood products. His taste for vivid lips, luxuriant lashes, and shapely arched brows can still be seen on the red carpet today.\\n__NOW:__ The brand continues to create great face makeup, like their easy-to-use, travel-friendly foundation stick, Max Factor Pan-Stik Ultra Creamy Makeup. While most Max Factor products are now sold only in stores in Europe, the Pan-Stik is available in seven shades on drugstore.com.\\n__THEN:__ As a makeup artist in the high-artifice times of the late '80s and early '90s, Bobbi Brown sensed that something was missing from the marketplace. She wanted to wear makeup that enhanced rather than transformed, that celebrated uniqueness and was easy to apply. So she made it herself, starting with a pinkish brown lipstick that instantly took off. But as much as women loved Brown's colors, it was her underlying philosophy of self-acceptance that really struck a chord. \\\"Beauty isn't about looking perfect,\\\" she said. \\\"It's about celebrating your individuality.\\\"\\n__NOW:__ The natural look isn't complete without a healthy flush\u2014which is why we love [Bobbi Brown Blush.](http://www.allure.com/beauty-products/makeup/2010/bobbi-brown-blush) The vibrant [Peony](http://www.allure.com/beauty-products/makeup/2011/bobbi-brown-blush-peony) pink and [Pale Pink](http://www.allure.com/beauty-products/makeup/2010/bobbi-brown-blush-pale-pink) shades offer the perfect pop of rosy color for any complexion.\\n__THEN:__ Revlon cofounder Charles Revson saw makeup as fashion, the colors and styles changing with the season, just like hemlines. More change meant more ideas, more products, and more sales. Through the minefields of ever-evolving sexual politics, he seemed to sense exactly what women wanted at any given time. With \\\"Fire and Ice\\\" lipstick and nail lacquer in the '50s, for instance, women wanted to feel naughty and nice; and with the Charlie fragrance of the '70s, Revson tapped into a nascent yearning for independence.\\n__NOW:__ Revlon is still known for its lipstick\u2014like the innovative __ColorBurst line,__ which disperses pigments in polymers to make the color incredibly vibrant. Try it in \\\"Fuchsia,\\\" a hot pink shade that's a favorite of *Allure* editors."^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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