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"*The latest cleansers aim to smooth lines and protect skin from pollution. Do they work\u2014or is it all just suds?*\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\nScanning the labels of new cleansers making big skin-boosting promises, we find ourselves inexplicably thinking of the *X-Files* movie that came out this year\u2014the one subtitled *I Want to Believe*. Since we have to wash the day's grime off our faces anyway, wouldn't it be swell if we could also fight wrinkles or protect our skin from environmental abuse at the same time? Who wouldn't want their cleanser to do that? Let's go out and buy some! And that's right about when our inner Dana Scully shouts, \\\"*Hello*, have you forgotten that you rinse it all off with water? That cleansers *literally* go right down the drain?\\\"\\n\\n\\n\\nThis might have been true in the past, but the latest generation of washes may win over even the biggest skeptics. Some new ingredients have rinse-resistant staying power; others offer the more subtle bonus of increasing the effectiveness of your other creams and serums. And while any benefits will be gradual, there's no question that \\\"it certainly can't hurt to use them,\\\" says Joseph Cincotta, a cosmetic scientist. \\\"Every little bit helps.\\\" So, which of the new washes are worth believing in? The truth is right here.\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n### MINIMIZE WRINKLES AND BROWN SPOTS\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\nAnti-aging ingredients such as glycolic acid, vitamin C, and retinol are now popping up in cleansers. But can they be effective when they're on and off the skin in a flash (or rather, a splash)?\\n\\n\\n\\nWith glycolic acid, long used in creams for its ability to smooth skin and diminish fine lines, the answer is a resounding yes. \\\"In a cleanser, glycolic acid binds with water and exfoliates skin, softening lines and reducing pigmentation,\\\" says Francesca Fusco, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City. Bonus: \\\"Since it helps remove the layer of dead skin cells, whatever you apply next will have enhanced penetration,\\\" Fusco says. The key is to choose a formula with a concentration that's high enough to be effective but not so high as to cause irritation. Jim Hammer, a cosmetic chemist, says, \\\"Between 5 and 10 percent is probably a good place to be,\\\" and recommends leaving it on the face for at least a minute. Try DDF Glycolic Exfoliating Wash with 5 percent glycolic acid.\\n\\n\\n\\nThat's the good news. The flip side is that other anti-aging ingredients, including vitamin C and retinol, don't work as well in cleansers as they do in moisturizers because they aren't in contact with the skin long enough to be effective, says Hammer. Premoistened cleansing wipes, which don't typically get rinsed off, can deliver these ingredients to the skin, especially for people who want a gradual introduction to retinol. We like L'Or\u00E9al Paris Revitalift Radiant Smoothing Wet Cleansing Towelettes, which contain vitamin C, and Pond's Dramatic Results Age-Defying Cleansing Towelettes, with retinol. \\\"If you're able to tolerate the amount of retinol in the wipes,\\\" Fusco says, \\\"you could move on to a stronger serum or lotion.\\\"\\n\\n \\n\\n\\n\\n### PROTECT SKIN FROM THE SUN\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\nAs icky as it sounds, a cleanser that leaves behind a residue on your skin can actually be a good thing\u2014as long as that something is sunscreen. Broad-spectrum SPF cleansers such as St. Ives Elements Protective Cleanser and Freeze 24-7 Ice Shield Facial Cleanser with Sunscreen SPF 15 use rinseproof technology and don't feel sticky (or interfere with basic cleansing). The St. Ives cleanser, for example, contains microencapsulated sunscreen and two film-forming agents, says Dennis Abbeduto, a senior scientist at St. Ives. \\\"This makes the sunscreen stick to the skin, while other ingredients remove dirt and oil.\\\" Dermatologists are enthusiastic about SPF cleansers since they appear to really work. Because they are more for incidental exposure than hard-core protection, however, experts recommend using a moisturizer with SPF 15 or higher.\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n### REPAIR ENVIRONMENTAL DAMAGE\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\nThe free radicals that skin encounters on a daily basis from sun and pollution reduce the collagen and elastin in the underlying layers of skin, causing dullness and sagging. And while cosmetics companies have been throwing traditional antioxidants like vitamin A and E into cleansers for years to counteract the free radicals, \\\"these are oil-soluble vitamins, so they are generally found at extremely low levels in water-based cleansers,\\\" says Hammer.\\n\\n\\n\\nExperts are more intrigued by a new ingredient Chanel recently introduced in its Pr\u00E9cision line of cleansers: a tulip-tree-leaf extract intended to target the residue that pollution can leave on skin. \\\"The tulip extract works as a magnet that traps pollutants accumulated on the skin, then rinses them away with water,\\\" explains Armelle Souraud, Chanel's scientific spokeswoman. As for whether the tulip-tree extract rids skin of environmental residue better than a regular cleanser, Cincotta says, \\\"Most cleansers will remove environmental grime, but if you can leave a barrier of protection from pollutants on the skin, that could be beneficial. I'd want to see studies conducted to determine both the amount of tulip-tree wax left on the skin after cleansing, and the amount of pollutants the cleanser was able to buffer, to see if it's legitimate.\\\"\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n### HYDRATE DRY SKIN\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\nMany women with parched skin wait until after they've washed their faces to address flakiness and tightness with hydrating serums and rich creams. But a new cleanser packed with peptides (strings of amino acids frequently found in anti-aging products) may make us consider backing up a step. When used in cleansers, peptides may have a hydrating effect, which can help alleviate the itchy feeling skin may have after washing. In a company study of the peptide-laced Olay Regenerist Deep Hydrating Mousse Cleanser, machine measurements showed higher levels of moisture in participants' skin after they used the cleanser twice a day for three days. The added moisture can plump the skin and keep its protective outer layer intact and able to \\\"resist the forces that lead to aging, like free radicals, better than unmoisturized skin,\\\" says Fusco. To that end, participants in the Olay study also said the cleanser left their skin softer, smoother, and with fewer visible fine lines and wrinkles.\\n\\n \\n\\n\\n\\n### Makeup Removers\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\nFor all the time we spend perfecting our smoky eye, taking it off should be the easy part. \\\"The rule for eye-makeup remover is that you should be able to take it off with one or two swipes\u2014no rubbing,\\\" says makeup artist Brigitte Reiss-Andersen. We asked her to test the latest formulas.\\n\\n\\n\\nThe Body Shop Waterproof Eye Make-up Remover\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n  __The Claim:__ \\\"Gently and effectively removes waterproof eye makeup...soothes skin\\\" with organic chamomile.\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n  __Reiss-Andersen Says:__ \\\"The chamomile depuffs the eye area, but I had to work to remove heavy eyeliner.\\\"\\n\\n\\n\\nTheBalm BalmsAway Eye Makeup Break-Up\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n  __The Claim:__ A \\\"skin-soothing eye-makeup-removing balm\\\" that leaves behind \\\"vitamins A, C, and E, and a blend of lipids to hydrate skin.\\\"\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n  __Reiss-Andersen Says:__ \\\"It's a modern take on cold cream and removes makeup easily, but I didn't like the greasy film.\\\"\\n\\n\\n\\nDecl\u00E9or Eye Make-Up Remover Gel\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n  __The Claim:__ \\\"Gently removes all types of eye makeup, including waterproof mascara, with an exclusive blend of essential oils and floral waters.\\\"\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n  __Reiss-Andersen Says:__ \\\"The light texture is great, but the makeup didn't budge without major scrubbing.\\\"\\n\\n\\n\\nBoots Expert Sensitive Gentle Eye Make-up Removal Pads\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n  __The Claim:__ \\\"Hypoallergenic and fragrance-free; a blend of oils sweeps away even waterproof makeup.\\\"\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n  __Reiss-Andersen Says:__ \\\"The pads are practical and take off makeup very well, but they are extremely oily.\\\"\\n\\n\\n\\nBenefit Gee...That Was Quick! Oil-Free Makeup Remover\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n  __The Claim:__ \\\"The oil-free formula thoroughly removes even the most stubborn mascara in one swipe.\\\"\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n  __Reiss-Andersen Says:__ \\\"I love the watery consistency of this and how it really takes makeup off quickly. Plus, it's not at all oily.\\\"\\n\\n\\n\\nYves Saint Laurent Cleansing Silky Balm Radiance Revealer\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n  __The Claim:__ The creamy cleanser \\\"melts to become a light...oil that absorbs all types of makeup.\\\"\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n  __Reiss-Andersen Says:__ \\\"Creams can be messy\u2014but this wasn't. It's not specifically for the eyes, but it took off all the makeup.\\\"\\n\\n \\n\\n\\n\\n### The Truth About Toners\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\nDermatologists have long said that toner is unnecessary. In fact, because many astringents contain alcohol, they can make skin uncomfortably dry. But recently, this neglected middle child of skin care has evolved.\\n\\n\\n\\nThe newest toners are packed with antioxidants, peptides, and moisturizers, and are focused more on hydrating skin and countering signs of aging than on stripping it of oil. They are appropriate for all skin types and all areas of the face, while the previous toners, designed for oily and acne-prone skin, were intended mostly for the T-zone, says Amy B. Lewis, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the Yale School of Medicine. She says antioxidants (such as green tea and vitamin C) in toners like Care by Stella McCartney Toning Floral Water can help combat free radicals; hyaluronic acid or glycerin, in Est\u00E9e Lauder Soft Clean Silky Hydration Lotion and Sothys Flower Water, will moisturize; and peptides, in Dermalogica Age Smart Antioxidant HydraMist, are known to stimulate collagen production.\\n\\n\\n\\nAre these new products more beneficial than the originals? If you have sensitive or oily skin and tend to break out from heavy creams, these toners could be an appealing alternative to moisturizer, says David E. Bank, associate professor of clinical dermatology at Columbia University. For everyone else, \\\"using a moisturizer that includes these hydrating or anti-aging ingredients would be more effective, because creams penetrate deeper into the skin and remain active for longer,\\\" Bank says. \\n\\n\\n\\n### Master the Cleanse\\n\\n\\n\\n\\n\\nSure, you've been washing your face for as long as you can remember, but there is a certain art to coming clean the right way. Here, dermatologists share their wisdom.\\n\\n\\n\\n__Don't overdo it.__ Cleansing too often \\\"will strip the skin of the oils it needs to maintain an intact barrier, which can leave skin dry, scaly, red, and irritated,\\\" says Jody Levine, clinical instructor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City. Generally, Levine says, people with dry skin shouldn't wash more than once a day (at night is best), while those with normal or oily skin can handle washing twice. Though exfoliating cleansers with gritty particles should only be used a few times a week, oily skin can tolerate a glycolic or salicylic acid cleanser with every wash, Levine says.\\n\\n\\n\\n__Warm up.__ \\\"Very hot water dries the skin,\\\" Levine says. \\\"Use warm water instead.\\\" If you choose to wash your face in the shower, turn the temperature down as low as the rest of your body can take it when you wash and rinse your face.\\n\\n\\n\\n__Watch the lather.__ The only reason you may want to leave a cleanser on your skin a few seconds longer than 60 is if you are washing acne-prone skin with a benzoyl peroxide or glycolic acid cleanser. Otherwise, \\\"the longer a cleanser is on the skin, the drier skin will become,\\\" Levine says. \\\"Rub on the cleanser, produce a lather, and then rinse it off.\\\"\\n\\n\\n\\n__Give it a rub.__ Massaging the cleanser in can increase the blood flow slightly and bring oxygen beneath the skin, clearing away carbon dioxide and leading to healthier skin tissue.\\n\\n\\n\\n__Dry gently.__ Use a towel to blot skin dry; rubbing can cause irritation. Finally, applying a moisturizer to slightly damp skin will maximize its effect, says dermatologist Jeannette Graf, assistant professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City."^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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