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" 1. Walleye. In classic French cooking, this dish would be &amp;quot;lobster with pike quenelles,&amp;quot; but, says Bruell, &amp;quot;I wanted to reverse the ingredients.&amp;quot; This simple inversion would horrify the French, but it&amp;#039;s a triumph in Cleveland. Plus: &amp;quot;By using lobster in the quenelles and making the pike the center of the plate, I can make it more affordable.&amp;quot; Which is the way Bruell spins everything at his new brasserie, whose menu looks straight from Paris \u2014 onion soup gratin\u00E9, mussels with pommes frites (on top), and choucroute \u2014 but with a midwestern twist.  2. Sauce Americaine \u2014 a classic nineteenth-century sauce made from lobster carcass, tomato, brandy, and a half pound of butter. &amp;quot;In 1976, classic French technique and Julia Child was all anyone was teaching,&amp;quot; says Bruell, who&amp;#039;s been around long enough to see every culinary style come and go. But he is still a guy from Ohio, so at L&amp;#039;Albatros he makes the world&amp;#039;s best \u2014 and messiest \u2014 French toast with wild mushrooms and balsamic syrup and serves pork two ways on one plate \u2014 braised shank and belly with grain-mustard sauce.  3. Lobster Quenelles. French quenelles, usually made with pike, are dauntingly rich dumplings that Bruell makes with lobster meat, egg whites, heavy cream, and herbs, combined in a food processor to form a thick paste. &amp;quot;They&amp;#039;re really very light but rich. You form it into the shape of little footballs,&amp;quot; he says, talking like a true Clevelander who knows that French p\u00E2t\u00E9 is just another name for meat loaf \u2014 but who also knows the difference. "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
<http://www.esquire.com/food-drink/restaurants/reviews/a6530/lalbatros-cleveland/>