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" Q: The heater/air conditioning blower motor on my 1999 Dodge full size van operates on high speed only. I&amp;#039;ve diagnosed the problem to be the resistor that governs the voltage to the motor, but I cannot find the location of the resistor so that it may be replaced. Can you help? Engine is a 318 cu. in. V-8. A: It&amp;#039;s hiding inside the air conditioning/heater plenum under the dashboard. Look for an access panel on the bottom or front of the plenum with wires leading to the motor. Read this for more info. Q: I was looking at the Saturday Mechanic from the July 2007 issue titled, &amp;quot;No Weld Rust Repair&amp;quot;. It interested me but I did not find anywhere that said what kind of glue was used. I just wanted to know the name and place you can get it at. A: It&amp;#039;s 3m Duramix. You should be able to find it at an auto parts store that caters to the body-shop trade. Q: I have a 2003 Chevrolet Suburban. It has a Boise radio in it with a DVD and TV. The factory installed the radio has poor reception. The sound is fine but with the car ruining i cannot get any AM stations and only a few FM stations. Is there anything i can do? It acts like there is no antenna or a very poor connection. A: Well, I&amp;#039;d start by making sure the antenna was plugged in to the back of the radio underdash. Then I&amp;#039;d check the integrity of the wire lead from the radio to the antenna mast. Last thing to check is the ground between the fender and the antenna mast. You can use a multi-meter on the resistance range for this. Q: My husband washed our brand new Honda Element with Palmolive antibacterial soap which left a film all over the paint and windows. We have very hard water on top of that and the combination of the two have left a permanent problem. We have tried so many things to remove the film but have had no such luck. Things which include: ammonia, vinegar, Windex with ammonia, Windex without ammonia, Tilex, Electrasol, CLR. The best results have come from a mild steel wool (on the windows) but that is going to take forever. Please help. A: Steel wool? You&amp;#039;re kidding, right? Seriously? The first thing I want you to do is to stop using household products on your car. Please. (He wanted to disinfect your car?) You&amp;#039;ve got a film from the hard water and soap on the surface of your paint. I&amp;#039;d start with a clearcoat-safe cleaner. Meguiars has a good one. Still not cutting? Try a bar of detailing clay. This is an abrasive clay that looks like ordinary modleing clay. Wash the car, spray a little of the clay&amp;#039;s lubricant on an are to be cleaned, and rub the clay over the surface in a circular motion. It&amp;#039;ll pull up virtually any surface contaminant without removing any clearcoat. Q: My older brother is a Mr. know it all DIY auto mechanic. After 30 years of working on cars, he ALWAYS insists to inflate tires to the maximum PSI on the sidewall. With an engineering degree, you would think he would understand that manufacturers determine the rating by taking the vehicle weight into consideration. The tension arises when one of us fills up the parent&amp;#039;s vehicle tires (Mazda MPV Sport). He uses the 51 max PSI and I prefer to use the manufacturer recommended (plus a couple extra PSI) which is considerably less. I believe the correct method is to use the vehicle manufacturer rating according to my research. Can you set the record straight? Can you explain in layman&amp;#039;s terms why one is right and the other is wrong? I&amp;#039;ve read many articles but I have not seen a good one explaining the physics through examples or in depth reasoning behind using one method vs. the other. Please help! A: Provide poor tire wear, because the smaller tire contact patch will wear faster. Wider tires in particular will wear out in the center of the tread prematurely. Provide reduced traction, especially under dry braking, because the tire contact patch is smaller, caused by higher pressures making the tire rounder on the bottom. Give a very harsh ride from the stiffer sidewalls and tread. Also, usually manufacturers specify a few psi more on one end of the car or the other. This is to trim the understeer/oversteer qualities of the suspension. A car with improperly set pressures will handle differently than the manufacturer intended. Bottom line: You&amp;#039;re right, your brother is wrong. "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
<http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a2123/4223933/>