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"  We&amp;#039;re losing our bar in a month. The bar at San Domenico restaurant -- softly lit, pink granite, straight out of 1986. It&amp;#039;s moving from Central Park South at Columbus Circle to a no-doubt-better location downtown somewhere, we don&amp;#039;t know where.  For San Domenico, it&amp;#039;s a great thing. You should go there when they open up the new space in January. The food is excellent (get the ravioli with the soft-cooked egg in the middle). The service is perfect. It will be a wonderful place. And we&amp;#039;ll take a cab to the new joint. But we&amp;#039;ll miss the old place. The lighting. And the granite. And how Renato (&amp;quot;Esquire&amp;#039;s Favorite Bartender,&amp;quot; Best Bars I, 2006) starts the pour before we get through the revolving door. And the consolation from Marisa, the owner&amp;#039;s charming daughter and ma\u00EEtre d&amp;#039;, minutes after we leave work.  When we found out that San Domenico was moving the other day, we started thinking about how you cultivate a relationship with a bar. We came up with some criteria for a regular place: It needs to be within walking distance of where you spend most of your time. And you have to get generous drinks there. You just do. And the bartender has to be there every night. If he goes on vacation, you have to notice. And you have to be able to get a seat at the bar, like, 85 percent of the time. And it really helps if there is a charming woman there who kisses you on both cheeks every single time you walk in. And she needs to be good at consoling.  If anybody knows a place like that, let us know. Sketch above created by a regular customer, two drinks in, June 14, 2007. "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
<http://www.esquire.com/food-drink/bars/a4550/san-domenico-0608/>