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"FacebookPinterest\n\nDon't Be So Old-Timey\n\nWhen we say \"vintage,\" we don't mean rusty antique pocket watches from a flea market. The watches we're talking about are mechanical (the kind you wind yourself), simple (you don't need to know the moon's phases), and above all, iconic. Like these.\n\n\u2190 Bulova (military issue)\n\nIt's affordable and looks like the Timex Vintage Field Watch that J.Crew sells, except this model's the real deal, worn by GIs in the '60s.\n\n$300 \u2666 clockfir.com\n\n\u2190 Patek Philippe Calatrava\n\nSince its debut in 1932, the Calatrava's been the quintessential black-tie watch. Get a '50s or newer; older models are too tiny (see below).\n\n$8,495 \u2666 parkandbond.com\n\n\u2190 Heuer Carrera\n\nCarreras from the '60s combine a goes-with-everything shape and retro racing swagger (check the stopwatch subdials).\n\n$2,500 to $7,500\n\n\u2190 Cartier Tank\n\nThe Tank nails the masculine-modern-elegant trifecta, which explains why Ali, Warhol, and Gary Cooper all wore one.\n\n$5,950 \u2666 tourneau.com\n\n\u2190 Rolex Submariner\n\nThe Sub is the dive watch and looks killer with a blazer. Careful: Rare details, like a gold (not white) Rolex logo, add big money.\n\n$7,500 \u2666 parkandbond.com\n\nFacebookPinterest\n\nWhy's My Hand So Big?\n\nNext to modern, pizza-sized watches, some vintage ones are like Bagel Bites\u2014the Bulova's case size is only 33 millimeters. Size up to 36 millimeters (the Heuer) or bigger if you're burly-wristed.\n\n  Turn One Watch into Three\n\nSwap the strap on a watch (in this case, a 1960s Longines) and you've got a whole new timepiece. \n\nFacebookPinterestFacebookPinterestFacebookPinterest\n\nEmbrace the Scrapes\n\n...and other tips from Benjamin Clymer, editor of watch blog Hodinkee and Parkandbond.com vintage-watch guru\n\nFacebookPinterest\n\n 2 Replacement parts sink a watch's value. Take Rolex and Patek, the two most collectible brands: The original dial (the face) holds 60 to 70 percent of the watch's worth.\n\n 3 Some collectors ask for the original box and papers, but they don't matter. Few people kept them. I don't even do it now.\n\n 4 If a watch hasn't been serviced in five to ten years, plan to have it done yourself. It costs $300 or more.\n\n 5 Always ask about the return policy.\n\nFacebookPinterest\n\nRevisionist History for Your Wrist\n\nWatch collectors are kind of obsessive. Case in point: Alejandro Alcocer, a fashion designer and caterer, heard a few years back that Rolex once made 500 all-black watches for British soldiers stationed in South Africa in the '60s. When he couldn't find one, he hatched a new plan and collected 350 vintage Roles\u2014fifty each of seven styles, including this Explorer II\u2014and turned them black himself. They're punk meets past, and when they're gone, they're gone.\n\n$19,500 | blackltdedition.com\n\n  I Stole it on eBay\n\nThe best stores and sites to find the vintage watch you've been jonesing for    On One Hand On the Other Hand  The Specialists Aaron Faber (N.Y.C.), Matthew Bain (Miami), Tourneau They're vintage hunters who can find that pristine Omega Ranchero; the watches are impeccable; you can try everything out in-store. You won't find a deal (though you won't get ripped off, either); limited locations; they don't get out of bed for watches under a grand.  The Curators Steven Alan, J.Crew, ParkandBond.com, Club Monaco Their stock is filled with classics in stellar condition; sourced by pros\u2014the watch equivalent of a greatest-hits collection. Numbers are limited; experts aren't on hand to answer questions; you're paying extra for the stores to get a cut.  The Web Chrono24.com, eBay Chrono24 is an international crowd of reputable watch dealers with a massive selection. If you're gonna find a steal, it'll be on eBay... ...And if you're gonna get ripped off, it'll be on eBay\u2014do some research, and trust your gut if it says the deal's too good."^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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