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" All food lovers, whether your fetish is foie gras or fashionable sprinkled cupcakes, eventually experience that glory moment, when suddenly, for some reason, it&amp;#039;s everywhere you look. For devout carnivores, that moment is here, now. From more-principled ranching practices to neotraditional curing methods, American meat in its quality, its variety, and its craftsmanship is about to surprise even those of us who know and love it the most.  Very high-end beef  At Chapel Hill Farm in Berryville, Virginia, Joe Henderson is reviving Randall Lineback cattle, a breed listed as &amp;quot;critically rare.&amp;quot; Originating in New England, Randalls result from the colonial farming practice of mixing European breeds to meet New World conditions. Crossed with common breeds like Holstein in the early 20th century, the lineage slowly disappeared. But Henderson&amp;#039;s cattle are direct descendents from a closed herd that wasn&amp;#039;t crossbred what he calls a &amp;quot;genetic time capsule.&amp;quot; Now ranging free and drinking water from a limestone spring, the Randalls are multiplying. Meanwhile, Henderson offers a small supply of intensely flavorful rose veal (named for the color produced by an open-pasture diet) as entire calves to nose-to-tail chefs including Cathal Armstrong at Restaurant Eve and Matt Hill at Charlie Palmer Steak, both in Washington, D. C. Next up: New York. In 2010, four chefs will be selected to introduce Randall Lineback meat to Manhattan. For more information, go to randalllineback.org. Lamb: The New Pork  Now that menus have exhausted every imaginable bit of pig, lamb is becoming the new pork. From one of the largest conservation projects in the West (near Sun Valley, Idaho), Lava Lake Land &amp;amp;amp; Livestock offers forage-finished, dry-aged lamb. Lava Lake thoughtfully abides by animal-welfare practices by driving away predators with distractions brightly colored flags, loud cracker shells rather than killing them. When wolves get close, herds are moved with the help of Great Pyrenees guard dogs. The animals are free to graze on a naturally lush diet of wild grasses and herbs and irrigated pasture, creating entirely range-fed meat with a mild, pure &amp;quot;taste of the land&amp;quot; that produced it. It&amp;#039;s meat with terroir. For more information, go to lavalakelamb.com. Heartland Charcuterie  Prosciutto from Iowa may sound iffy, but La Quercia makers of the first organic prosciutto in America is turning out some of the finest cured meat in our charcuterie-crazed country. Using pigs freely ranged on vegetarian, grain-based diets and only two ingredients (pork and sea salt) or three (pork, sea salt, spices), their artisan salumi also includes a rolled pancetta, guanciale (cured hog jowl, used like slab bacon), coppa, and their special Iowa White, or lardo cured back fat seasoned with clove, coriander, nutmeg, pepper, and bay. They put it on onion focaccia and call it a &amp;quot;savory cinnamon roll.&amp;quot; For more information, go to www.laquercia.us.  RELATED STORIES:  NEW RECIPE: What to Do with All Your Guanciale  GUIDE: Everything You Need to Know About Steak  LIST: The Best Sandwiches in America  TOM CHIARELLA: What It&amp;#039;s Like to Be a Butcher   PLUS: Dozens of Food and Drink Recipes in the Archive   "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
<http://www.esquire.com/food-drink/a5636/american-meat-0409/>