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"  Nail Pops Drywall is often fastened to wall studs and ceiling joists with drywall nails, which have long, thin shanks and large, round heads. Occasionally those nails will lose their grip and pop through the surface. There are many reasons why nails pop, but it usually happens when the wood framing shrinks, the house settles, or the nails aren&amp;#039;t driven solidly into the center of the stud or joist. Regardless of the reason, the repair is the same (and don&amp;#039;t try to simply hammer it back in; there&amp;#039;s no guarantee it won&amp;#039;t pop back out).  Start by using pliers to yank the popped nail. Next, locate the exact center of the stud or joist. You can use an electronic stud finder, or a hammer and a finishing nail. For the latter, drive the finishing nail through the drywall until you pinpoint each edge of the stud or joist.  Now use a cordless drill/driver to drive two 1-5/8-inch coarse-thread drywall screws into the center of the stud or joist. Position one screw about 1 inch above the old nail hole and the other an inch below. Drive the screws below the surface, but try not to puncture the drywall&amp;#039;s paper face.  Next, use a 4-inch drywall knife to apply a thin coat of joint compound over the repaired area. Allow the compound to dry overnight, then sand it smooth with 120-grit sandpaper. Apply a second coat of compound, but this time use a 6-inch knife and spread the compound several inches beyond the first coat. Once that coat is dry, sand the area, then prime and paint.  Your drywall might have been fastened with screws rather than nails to begin with, but screws can pop through the surface, too. Use the same fix if that happens.  Small Holes You swing open a door in your home with a bit too much gusto and wham\u2014the doorknob punches through the wall. The easiest way to repair this hole is to buy a stick-on repair plate. Sold at most hardware stores, these round, hard-plastic plates have an adhesive backing. Simply peel off the protective backing and stick the plate to the wall over the hole. Then, paint the plate to match the wall.  To repair other small holes, try this quick fix: Cut a strip of half-inch or thicker plywood and make it slightly narrower than the hole diameter and about 4 inches longer than the hole diameter. Then tie a string around the center of the strip and slide the plywood through the hole. By pulling on the string, you&amp;#039;ll be able to hold the plywood strip flat against the backside of the drywall where you wouldn&amp;#039;t normally be able to reach.  On opposite sides of the hole, drive a 1-5/8-inch drywall screw through the drywall and into the plywood strip. Remove the string, then cut a round piece of drywall to fit the hole. Smear joint compound onto the back of the round patch and press it into the hole. Check to be sure the patch is flush with the surrounding wall surface. If it&amp;#039;s not, remove the patch and carefully peel off the paper backing, reducing its thickness. Apply more compound and press the patch back into place. Hold the patch in place with painter&amp;#039;s tape, and allow the compound to dry overnight. Use a 4-inch drywall knife to apply joint compound over the patched hole. Be sure to spread the compound at least 4 inches beyond the hole. Cut a strip of paper drywall tape long enough to overlap the hole by at least 2 inches. Press the tape into the compound, covering the hole. If the hole is wider than one strip of tape, apply two strips, butting them edge to edge but not overlapping. Smooth the tape with the knife, and let the repair dry overnight.  Sand the repair with 120-grit sandpaper, then apply a second compound coat with a 6-inch knife, spreading the compound well beyond the first coat. Once dry, sand the area, then prime and paint.  Large Holes To repair larger holes in drywall, it&amp;#039;s best simply to cut out the damaged area between two studs, and install new drywall. Start by using a level to mark level and plumb cut lines around the damaged area. Be sure that each vertical cut line is flush along the inside edge of a stud. Check for any hidden wires or pipes, then cut out the old drywall with a drywall saw or compass saw. You&amp;#039;ll need lumber to attach the piece to, so screw a 2 x 2 flush with the studs on each side of the opening. Cut a length of 1 x 4 to fit across the top and bottom of the opening. Hold each 1 x 4 in place with half its width extending into the opening. Secure the 1 x 4s with 1-1/4-inch drywall screws. Next, cut a new piece of drywall to size and set it into the hole. Fasten the drywall patch to the 1 x 4 and 2 x 2 supports with 1-1/4-inch drywall screws.  Now patch up the edges: Use a 4-inch drywall knife to apply joint compound around the perimeter. Spread the compound at least 4 inches beyond the opening. Press paper drywall tape into the compound, covering the seam between the patch and wall. Smooth the tape flat with the knife, and let the repair dry overnight.  Sand the repair with 120-grit sandpaper, then apply a second compound coat with a 6-inch knife, spreading the compound well beyond the first coat. Let the second coat dry. Since this is a bigger repair job, you&amp;#039;ll want to go with a third coat of compound to make your fix invisible. So sand the area, then apply a third coat of compound with an 8- or 10-inch knife. Once dry, sand, prime, and paint.  Loose Joint Tape The seams between drywall sheets are covered by strips of paper tape, which are embedded in a thick layer of joint compound. Unfortunately it&amp;#039;s not uncommon for paper tape to pull loose and start to peel from the wall. This problem can happen in any room, but occurs most often in bathrooms where moisture helps loosen the tape. To fix it, start by using a sharp utility knife to cut out the loose section of tape. When making the cuts, it&amp;#039;s important to slice beyond the loose piece and through a section of tape that is firmly adhered to the wall.  After removing the loose section, use a 4-inch-wide drywall knife to spread a layer of joint compound over the exposed joint. Lay a new piece of paper tape into the compound, then press it flat with the knife. Be sure the ends of the new tape butt against, but don&amp;#039;t overlap, the existing tape.  Lastly, you&amp;#039;ll follow the same procedure as our other repairs: Allow the repair to dry overnight, then sand flush with 120-grit sandpaper. Apply a second compound coat with a 6-inch knife, spreading the compound well beyond the first coat. Once dry, sand the area, then prime and paint.  Crumpled Corner Bead When two sheets of drywall meet at an outside wall corner, they&amp;#039;re protected by an L-shaped metal strip called corner bead. Corner bead is nailed over the corner and then concealed by two or three layers of joint compound. Metal corner bead is pretty tough stuff, but it&amp;#039;s not indestructible. It can get dented through any number of activities, including run-ins with the vacuum cleaner, a tyke on a trike, or moving furniture. The good news is that ordinarily only a small section of the corner bead gets damaged, making the repair much simpler.  Begin by using a hacksaw to cut through the corner bead approximately 2 inches above and below the damaged section. Next, take a utility knife and cut along each vertical edge of the corner bead, making sure you slice through the paint and joint compound. Pry the severed piece of corner bead from the wall using a thin pry bar and straight-blade screwdriver. Be extra careful\u2014it&amp;#039;s easy to damage the surrounding drywall surfaces, and you&amp;#039;ll create a lot more work for yourself if you do. Now use aviation snips to cut a new piece of corner bead to replace the damaged section. Set the new piece into place and fasten it with 1-1/2-inch drywall nails. Conceal the repair with two to three coats of joint compound, making sure to sand between coats. When done, prime and paint to match the walls. "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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