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" I grew up cooking for my dad and trying desperately to please him. He had a sophisticated palate, but unexpected, unfussy things seemed to make him happiest. There&amp;#039;s something inherently comforting and reassuring about brisket \u2014 it has an Old World vibe. Searing a piece of meat this large may take longer and be messier than you&amp;#039;d imagine, but the secret to a great braise is getting a good sear at the beginning and the end. You want the succulent, tender texture of the meat to have the contrast of a crispy, caramelized exterior \u2014 otherwise it just tastes like stewed meat. Good news is, you can do the messy work in advance \u2014 even the day before \u2014 and reheat the brisket right before serving. Ingredients  1 large flat or first-cut beef brisket,* about 5 \u00BD to 6 lbs with \u00BD-inch fat cap, removed from the refrigerator 2 hours before cooking and seasoned with:  2 tbsp coarse salt, 3 tbsp fresh thyme leaves, 2 bay leaves (crumbled), 10 cloves garlic (peeled and smashed), 3 dried chiles de \u00E1rbol (broken in half) or 2 tsp crushed red-pepper flake,and 1 \u00BD tbsp cracked black pepper 4 tbsp olive oil 2 medium onions, roughly chopped 3 medium carrots, roughly chopped &amp;amp;gt;\u00BC cup balsamic vinegar 3 cups dark beer, such as Guinness or Samuel Smith 4 cups beef stock  Instructions Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Place a large, heavy roasting pan (preferably with a lid) over two burners at high heat for 2 minutes. Add 3 tbsp olive oil and wait a minute. Place seasoned brisket, fat side down, in pan and sear on both sides until deep brown, about 8 minutes a side.  Once both sides are well browned, remove brisket and reduce heat to medium-high. Add remaining olive oil and vegetables to pan and cook until caramelized, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir often with a wooden spoon, scraping up all the crusty bits. Turn off heat (so liquids won&amp;#039;t evaporate immediately), add balsamic vinegar and then beer. Turn heat back up to medium-high and reduce liquids by a quarter. Add beef stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Return brisket to pan, settling it so vegetables surround meat. (Stock should come just to the top of brisket. Add more stock if necessary.) Cover pan tightly (with the lid or foil) and braise in oven about 4 hours.  If a fork slides in easily, brisket is done. If meat resists, cook another 15 minutes or so, being careful not to let it dry out.  Turn up the heat to 400 degrees. Carefully transfer brisket to a baking sheet and return to oven until top is crispy, about 20 minutes. Strain braising juices into a saucepan and skim the fat.  Let meat rest 10 minutes after it comes out of the oven. Place on a cutting board and slice thinly against the grain. Plate meat, spoon braising juices over it, and dollop with horseradish cream. Top with onions and serve. Recommended side: mashed potatoes.  Serves 6. Horseradish Cream: Mix \u00BE cup sour cream with 1 tbsp prepared white horseradish (like Gold&amp;#039;s, sold in refrigerator case) and salt and pepper to taste. Pickled Onions: Place 1 peeled and thinly sliced red onion in heatproof bowl. In a nonaluminum pot, bring 1 cup water, \u00BD cup red-wine vinegar, \u2153 cup sugar, 1 cinnamon stick, \u00BD tbsp whole black peppercorns, 1 chile de \u00E1rbol (broken in half), and 1 bay leaf to a boil and then pour over the onions. Let cool completely and refrigerate. *Look for meat of even thickness. One end will be rounded, but avoid a brisket with a tapered tip. Unlike fattier braising cuts like short ribs, brisket can get dry without its protective fat cap, which also provides flavor. Suzanne Goin is the chef of Lucques in Los Angeles. \u2014As told to Francine Maroukian "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
<http://www.esquire.com/food-drink/food/a8368/braised-beef-brisket-0910/>