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"&lt;b&gt;When it comes to live-fire cooking,\u00A0&lt;/b&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Korean barbecue\u00A0&lt;/strong&gt;is just as essential as any of the offerings in Memphis, Austin, or Kansas City. We at\u00A0&lt;em&gt;BA\u00A0&lt;/em&gt;have happily risked burning our knees on undermounted tabletop grills to consume large platters of charred, juicy meat and tender seafood wrapped in lettuce, not to mention eating our weight in kimchi and vegetable sides. Yet despite our love for Korean barbecue, we've always treated it like restaurant food\u2014you know, something better left to the experts. This summer, things are going to be different. In an effort to bring home this dynamic cuisine, we embarked on a multicity tour, spending time in the kitchens of some of the most creative Korean-American chefs. They fired up their grills, guided us through their pantries, and cooked shoulder-to-shoulder with us. What follows is everything we learned. &lt;p&gt;The centerpiece of any Korean barbecue is the meat. Whether you marinate or not, the first rule to getting it right remains the same: &lt;strong&gt;Embrace the fast\u00A0and furious&lt;/strong&gt;.\u00A0&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;The Korean grill favors thin pieces of meat cooked quickly over high heat, so the proteins don\u2019t dry out. This method works just as well for rib eye as it does for short ribs.&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;\u201C&lt;em&gt;Jeolgi-jeolgi&lt;/em&gt;\u201D (literally, \u201Cchewy-chewy\u201D) is a prized texture in Korean barbecue. As it turns out, using your teeth to tear into a piece of meat\u00A0&lt;i&gt;feels\u00A0&lt;/i&gt;really good.\u00A0&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;Korean barbecue doesn't have to be steak; Seattle chef &lt;a href=\"http://www.joulerestaurant.com/\" target=\"_blank\"&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rachel Yang&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; recommends grilling pork shoulder. Keep an eye on the edge of the meat where it touches the grill: When it\u2019s browned, turn the pork over.&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;These fried chicken wings\u2014from &lt;strong&gt;Edward Lee&lt;/strong&gt;, author of &lt;a href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Smoke-Pickles-Recipes-Stories-Southern/dp/1579654924\" target=\"_blank\"&gt;Smoke and Pickles&lt;/a&gt; and chef at &lt;a href=\"http://610magnolia.com/\" target=\"_blank\"&gt;610 Magnolia&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=\"http://milkwoodrestaurant.com/\" target=\"_blank\"&gt;Milkwood&lt;/a&gt; in Louisville, Kentucky\u2014may not technically be barbecue, but they're &lt;em&gt;goooood&lt;/em&gt;. Serve 'em at a cookout, and no one will complain they didn't touch the grill.&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;For this dish from &lt;strong&gt;Jiyeon Lee&lt;/strong&gt; (of &lt;a href=\"http://www.sobban.com/\" target=\"_blank\"&gt;Sobban&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=\"http://www.heirloommarketbbq.com/\" target=\"_blank\"&gt;Heirloom Market BBQ&lt;/a&gt; in Atlanta), make sure to buy whole squid; precut rings will slip through your grill grate.&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;The Korean table is almost as much about the accompaniments as it is the meat\u2014that\u2019s the purpose of the\u00A0&lt;i&gt;banchan,&lt;/i&gt;\u00A0all those crunchy and acidic side dishes that balance your fatty, smoky proteins. \u00A0&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;When grilling for friends at home, Lee sets the table with\u00A0&lt;i&gt;banchan&lt;/i&gt;\u00A0but tells everyone to wait for the meat to come off the grill before digging in.&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;To eat, alternate bites of protein with nibbles of\u00A0&lt;i&gt;banchan,&lt;/i&gt;\u00A0put\u00A0&lt;i&gt;banchan&lt;/i&gt;\u00A0inside your lettuce wrapper, or do both.&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;Atlanta chef Jiyeon Lee\u2019s lightly pickled mix of vegetables and seaweed is especially good with seafood.&lt;/p&gt;     &lt;p&gt;You're gonna need some kimchi to go with the barbecue, and when they're in season, ramps make a fine and funky pickle.&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;This is where it all starts to come together. &lt;i&gt;Ssam&lt;/i&gt; means \u201Cwrapped\u201D\u2014you\u2019ll be using lettuce. Set out sturdy, palm-size leaves, like romaine or Bibb hearts, or perilla. Add some grilled protein, a dab of sauce, and the &lt;i&gt;banchan&lt;/i&gt; you like; mix textures, flavors, and temperatures. Then fold and chomp. &lt;strong&gt;Just please, don\u2019t overstuff&lt;/strong&gt;: You\u2019re crafting one perfect bite, not a burrito. \u00A0&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;Jiyeon Lee\u2019s sauce calls for minty sweet perilla (a.k.a. sesame leaf); seek it out at Asian markets.&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edward Kim&lt;/strong&gt;, of &lt;a href=\"http://www.mottstreetchicago.com/\" target=\"_blank\"&gt;Mott St.&lt;/a&gt; in Chicago, delivers a final hit of seasoning with this condiment. Solar salt is coarse and crunchy and keeps its shape; Asian markets stock it, but kosher salt is fine, too.&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;Chef Rachel Yang likes her rice \"chopstick-ready\": sticky enough to hold together lightly, but with defined grains. To get that texture, rinse short-grain white rice (a.k.a. sushi rice) to remove some starch. And hold the salt! Rice should taste like rice. Our method requires no special equipment.&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;Rice should taste like rice\u2014but there's no reason you shouldn't serve it with all the fixings and turn it into classic bibimbap.&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;Edward Kim\u2019s vinegary buckwheat noodles will put out the fire in your belly and wake up your palate. Crushed ice cubes on top keeps it chilled no matter the heat index, and, as they melt, add to what Kim describes as the dish\u2019s \u201Cslurp-ability.\u201D&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;Shop\u00A0&lt;a href=\"http://hmart.com/\" target=\"_blank\"&gt;hmart.com&lt;/a&gt;\u00A0for these Korean staple ingredients:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Toasted Sesame Oil:\u00A0&lt;/strong&gt;Rich, nutty, and a non-negotiable addition to\u00A0&lt;a href=\"http://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/sesame-salt-dipping-sauce\"&gt;dips&lt;/a&gt;\u00A0and\u00A0&lt;a href=\"http://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/soy-and-sesame-short-ribs\"&gt;marinades&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Doenjang:\u00A0&lt;/strong&gt;A fermented soybean paste that is saltier, stinkier, and coarser than miso\u2014not unlike a ripe blue cheese.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Gochujang:\u00A0&lt;/strong&gt;This fermented chile paste is key to\u00A0&lt;b&gt;Rachel Yang&lt;/b&gt;\u2019s\u00A0&lt;a href=\"http://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/gochujang-pork-shoulder-steaks\"&gt;pork marinade&lt;/a&gt;\u00A0and\u00A0&lt;b&gt;Edward Kim&lt;/b&gt;\u2019s\u00A0&lt;a href=\"http://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/mott-st-ssam-sauce\"&gt;ssam sauce&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4. Gochugaru Powder:\u00A0&lt;/strong&gt;The source of kimchi\u2019s fruity, earthy heat; also good for spicing up sauces.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;"^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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