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"  You can have a &amp;#039;67 Mustang in the driveway, a Gibson Les Paul guitar in your hand, and a date with destiny down at the roadhouse open mic\u2014but if you can&amp;#039;t find your car keys, you&amp;#039;re staying home tonight. The cure for such episodes is this combination shelf and coat rack, which I designed and built for my own front hallway. Its three cubbyholes provide more than enough space to store everything from car keys and harmonicas to a porkpie hat (if you&amp;#039;re so inclined). For most of us, though, it means a place to stash gloves, sunglasses, dog leashes and mail. Coats hang below.  I mounted my minicabinet near the front door, but it would also be useful in a mudroom, breezeway, front hallway, enclosed porch or garage\u2014any area in the home that begs to be transformed from a scene of confusion into a gateway for calm and quick exits to the outside world. Entryway Cabinet Plans (PDF, 1MB, requires Adobe Reader) Construction and Materials Notes:   Parts Being Joined Shelves and Ends Shelves and Cubbyhole Dividers Top and Ends Cove Moldings and Case Cleat and Back Cleat and Wall Studs Back and Key Rail   Fasteners 1\u00BC-inch coarse-thread pocket screws 1\u00BD-inch (18-ga.) brads or 4d finishing nails 1\u00BD-inch (18-ga.) brads or 4d finishing nails 1\u00BD-inch (23-ga.) head- less pins or \u00BE-inch brads 1\u00BC-inch coarse-thread drywall screws 3-inch coarse-thread drywall screws 1\u00BC-inch coarse-thread drywall screws   Direction of Fasteners Through shelf into end Through shelf into divider Through top into end Through cove molding into case Through cleat into back Through cleat into studs Through back into key rail    2 \u00BE&amp;quot; x 75\u20448&amp;quot; x 36\u00BD&amp;quot; pine (shelf) 2 \u00BE&amp;quot; x 9\u00BC&amp;quot; x 16&amp;quot; pine (end) 2 \u00BE&amp;quot; x 73\u20448&amp;quot; x 813\u204416&amp;quot; pine (divider) 1 \u00BE&amp;quot; x 16&amp;quot; x 36\u00BD&amp;quot; laminated pine (back) 1 \u00BE&amp;quot; x 11\u00BC&amp;quot; x 42&amp;quot; pine (top) 1 15\u20448&amp;quot; x 40\u00BD&amp;quot; pine (front cove molding) 2 15\u20448&amp;quot; x 103\u20448&amp;quot; pine (end cove molding) 2 \u00BE&amp;quot; x 4&amp;quot; x 363\u20448&amp;quot; pine (French cleat) 1 \u00BE&amp;quot; x 1\u00BD&amp;quot; x 36\u00BD&amp;quot; pine (key rail)  Step 1: Building the Case  The heart of this project is nothing more than an open box. Moldings and shaped edges help conceal that fact, as do subtle proportions.  I began by crosscutting the ends using a miter saw, but you could just as easily use a circular saw and guide. Next, I marked the arch on each end and cut it using a jigsaw. After completing the ends, I ripped to width the upper and lower shelves, the key rail, the cubbyhole dividers and the laminated-pine shelf stock for the back. Note that the cubbyhole dividers are slightly narrower than the upper and lower shelves. This design element helps better define the inside of the case. Step 2: Building the Case  Next, I crosscut the upper and lower shelves, the key rail and the back. Using a 3/8 -inch-radius cove bit and router, I cut the decorative edge on the bottom shelf, the key rail and the back. Step 3: Building the Case  Before assembly, all that&amp;#039;s left is to crosscut the top and cut a cove molding for its front and ends.  One of my favorite ways to fasten furniture parts is to use pocket screws. For this project, I used a Kreg pocket-screw jig and the system&amp;#039;s matching drill bit and drive bit. The jig firmly clamps a workpiece while you use the drill bit to bore a pilot hole at a shallow angle on the inside of the workpiece. By locating the holes on the inside of the case, the process eliminates exterior fasteners and the need to join parts with carefully cut joints, glue and clamps. I bored four pocket-screw pilot holes in each shelf and screwed them to the ends. Then I bored six pocket-screw holes in the back and attached it to the ends as well. Since the dividers need to fit between the upper and lower shelves, you can&amp;#039;t simply crosscut them to a given dimension. Instead, hold each divider between the shelves, mark its length, then crosscut it. Slide each divider into the case and fasten it. I used a pneumatic nailer and 1\u00BD-inch-long brads.  Step 4: Building the Case  Finally, hold the back edge of the top even with the back of the ends and nail it to the ends with 1\u00BD-inch brads. Step 5: Trimming the Cabinet  To trim the top, lay a cove molding upside down on a miter saw (the molding&amp;#039;s top rests on the saw table). Cut a miter and hold the molding against the cabinet; mark and cut the second miter. I fastened the front molding with a pneumatic pin nailer, but you could drill pilot holes and hammer in \u00BE-inch-long brads. Step 6: Trimming the Cabinet  Now cut a miter on the next piece of molding, butt it against the front molding and mark its length; do this to the third molding as well. Nail these pieces to the case. Step 7: Trimming the Cabinet  Finally, lay the key rail inside the case, then drive 1\u00BC-inch drywall screws through the case back and into the rail. If you choose, you can drive small screw hooks into the rail for hanging keys. Now set nailheads if needed and apply wood filler. Sand the case with 100- and 120-grit sand\u00ADpaper. I applied two coats of primer and one topcoat of latex semigloss. Then I installed the coat hooks. How to Hang It The best way to hang a cabinet is with a French cleat. It&amp;#039;s strong and it allows the cabinet to be easily removed when the room is painted. To make it, rip two pieces of wood at a 45-degree angle. Attach one to the cabinet back and one to the wall. To attach the cleat to a wall, mark the stud locations and transfer them to the wall cleat. Bore pilot holes in the cleat, then hold it on the wall with a level. Draw a level line under the cleat and drive a screw into a stud. Hold the cleat on the line and drive a second screw. Drive the remaining four screws into the wall framing. "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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