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" Every time Atlanta chef Shaun Doty moves to a new restaurant -- from Mumbo Jumbo to Table 1280 and now to his own place -- his food gets simpler and better. So does the decor, which at Shaun&amp;#039;s -- a small sixty-five-seat Southern bistro located on the premises of an old soul-food eatery in quiet Inman Park -- is a homey mix of red-brick floors, white-brick walls, and tables topped with butcher paper.  Doty&amp;#039;s cooking is a combination of classic Southern comfort food with the high style he learned from Atlanta master chef Guenter Seeger, like a simple platter of summer&amp;#039;s sweetest, most colorful heirloom tomatoes dressed with basil, shallots, and olive oil. His shrimp and stone-milled grits are tossed with peppery tasso ham, an oozy poached egg, and a spicy creole sauce; tender Wagyu beef cheeks are served with butter beans and Carolina Gold rice that tastes like popcorn; and the crisp french fries that accompany a perfectly juicy roast chicken are cooked in flavor-imparting duck fat. In a city now inundated with national-chain restaurants, Shaun&amp;#039;s is a paragon of what contemporary Southern food can and should be. While in the neighborhood, check out the Variety Playhouse for jazz, rock, and other live music. 1029 Edgewood Avenue; 404-577-4358; shaunsrestaurant.com.  This year&amp;#039;s list spans cities and cuisines, but the restaurants share at least one trait: a palpable feeling that the owners are giving their all to please you. Rocca, Boston, Massachusetts * [Back to Best New Restaurants, 2007] * Table 45, Cleveland, Ohio "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
<http://www.esquire.com/food-drink/restaurants/reviews/a3531/shauns1107/>