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" You can tell a lot about a man by his shoulders. His confidence, his cool, his chances in a bar fight -- they&amp;#039;re all right there, wrapped up and written all over the slopes and planes of his upper body. The shoulders of a suit jacket, meanwhile, can be equally telling, and the soft, natural construction found in most Italian suits is a clear marker of a self-assured man who has no use for padding. This example from Ermenegildo Zegna looks as simple as a shirt seam (spalla camicia is what an Italian tailor would call it). To create it, expert hands gently coaxed an oversized sleeve head onto the scye (the armhole in the body of the jacket) one stitch at a time, resulting in the telltale ripples at the shoulder. It&amp;#039;s a minor detail but an important one, maximizing mobility in a close-fitting jacket and helping distinguish a great suit from a good one. Two-button wool suit ($2,395) by Ermenegildo Zegna; cotton shirt ($225) by Luciano Moresco; silk tie ($195) by Valentino; cotton pocket square ($30) by Robert Talbott.  "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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