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"  If you own an old house, chances are you have at least one window that needs reglazing. There are two situations that can lead to this\u2014a broken pane or deterioration over time.  Glazing is the name of the hardened putty that creates a weathertight seal on the exterior of the window between the wood and the glass. Over time it can fall off or become badly cracked, leaving your window vulnerable to the effects of water and rot. Reglazing a window isn&amp;#039;t difficult, but it takes a little know-how and a couple of free hours. Step 1: Examine the Situation  First, examine the exterior of your windows to see what condition they&amp;#039;re in. If the glazing has a few hairline cracks here and there, it has some life left to it, but you should occasionally check to see if things get any worse. If there is glazing missing, or if you can fit a knife blade in the cracks, you need to reglaze your windows. Step 2: Remove the Old Glazing  First, you need to remove the operable part of the window (where it slides up or down), called the sash. To do this, remove the tall, thin pieces of wood, called stops, that sit on the interior of the window to each side of the opening, perpendicular to the sash. It&amp;#039;s common for them to be held in place with three screws each. If the stops are painted in, use a razor knife to carefully break the paint line in order to remove them. (Because you&amp;#039;re working with an old window, make sure to take all of the necessary precautions concerning lead paint.) Step 3: Remove the Old Glazing  Once the sash is out, it&amp;#039;s time to remove the bad glazing. Start by chipping off the loose glazing with a razor knife or scraper. What remains will be stuck pretty well to the wood and glass. Take this off very carefully, but even with a delicate touch, you run a high risk of breaking the window or damaging the wood frame. I recommend using a heat gun, which softens the glazing to an extent that it practically falls off the window. The intense heat will do some damage to the surrounding paint, so if you go this route, your project will expand to scraping and repainting the entire window. Regardless of the method you use, you need to be aware of the glazier&amp;#039;s points (the small metal clips that hold the pane of glass in place). They&amp;#039;re buried in the glazing and are likely at the center points of the sides. If you&amp;#039;re replacing a broken pane, remove these points with pliers once they&amp;#039;ve been uncovered. Step 4: Examine the Wood Frame  Once all of the glazing has been removed, examine the wood to see if it needs repair. Any patching should be done with a two-part wood epoxy, which can be shaped and sanded to match the wood.  At this point, you may have the urge to prime the bare wood that you uncovered. There is a debate about this; some say to prime and others say not to. The oldtimer who taught me said not to, so I don&amp;#039;t. He would always say that the pristine condition of the newly uncovered wood was proof that the oils in the glazing created a protective shield, and that the primer was unnecessary. Step 5: Replace the Glass  If you&amp;#039;re replacing a broken piece of glass, measure for the new piece by taking the dimensions of the wood-to-wood opening and subtract one-eighth inch. While you want the glass to fit, you don&amp;#039;t want it jammed in too tight. Leaving one-sixteenth inch of free space in each side is enough for the glass to fit easily, but snug enough for the glazier&amp;#039;s points to hold.  Once you have the piece of glass cut (most hardware stores can do that for you), lay down a thin layer of glazing compound on the wood frame, set the glass against it, then secure it in place with new glazier&amp;#039;s points. Press these points into the frame with a putty knife. Step 6: Reglaze  Now it&amp;#039;s time to apply the new putty. If you&amp;#039;re just working on one or two small panes, a half-pint container of glazing should do. It can be found at any hardware store and costs only a few dollars. Larger containers are available as well. First make sure that your glazing compound is at room temperature. Then work a golf-ball-size glob in your hands for a minute or so to even out the consistency. Once it&amp;#039;s nice and pliable, roll it out like you&amp;#039;re making a breadstick and then work the piece in along the edge of the windowpane. (Don&amp;#039;t worry about forcing it in\u2014that will be taken care of in the next step.) Step 7: Reglaze  Tooling the glazing is a two-part process: Press the glazing into the glass and the frame, then smooth it off. To press it in, take a putty knife and push it against the wood and the glass (pictured). Go around the whole window, and remove the excess as you go. Your goal is for the inside edge of the glazing to be in line with the wood mullion on the other side of the window.  Then take the putty knife and run it at an angle along the glazing, smoothing it off and cutting the excess away. To get a nice finished look, do this in one single pass per side. To remove the excess, just scoop it with the corner of your putty knife and push it toward the center of the window. Step 8: Paint  Because of the curing process for the glazing, you&amp;#039;ll need to wait at least a week to paint the glazing, so you might as well reinstall the window in the meantime. Just leave all of the oily fingerprints on it\u2014it&amp;#039;s best to clean it once the glazing has hardened a little. When you do paint it, use a high-quality oil-based primer. And it is crucial that you lap your paint onto the glass at least one-sixteenth of an inch. If you don&amp;#039;t follow this final step, your glazing will fail long before its time. 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