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" Houston Randy Evans&amp;#039;s Pig-Trotter Fritters: An Annotated Dish Fried pigs&amp;#039; feet. &amp;quot;It&amp;#039;s about the total usage of the beast. When oyster season ended, we had to come up with some new appetizers, and my sous chef and I were trying to figure out how to get people to eat pigs&amp;#039; feet \u2014 I&amp;#039;d buy three hogs to get all the center cuts for entr\u00E9es, but we&amp;#039;d have all these feet lying around. We figured fritters had more eye appeal than seeing them packed in a jar.&amp;quot;  Gibson cocktail onions. Evans doesn&amp;#039;t see Texas as southern or western or southwestern. &amp;quot;Texas is its own thing, with all these immigrant influences \u2014 cattlemen, Germans, Czech, Polish, even Vietnamese \u2014 and I draw on food traditions of the Hill Country, east Texas, and the Gulf.&amp;quot; Maybe the immigrant culture taught him not to waste anything \u2014 not pigs&amp;#039; feet, not even onions. When Evans realized early on that he didn&amp;#039;t have cocktail onions, he made his own. One batch cooked too long and got soft. &amp;quot;I thought, Oh, hell, what am I gonna do with these? And that&amp;#039;s how they ended up in this dish.&amp;quot;  Tomato vinaigrette and fris\u00E9e. Evans&amp;#039;s cooking shows a peerless understanding of how flavors interact. (Wrap your head around this dish: peanut-crusted soft-shell crab with green beans, eggplant, okra, onion, and a splash of pungent nuoc mam.) The sweet tomato vinaigrette and bitter fris\u00E9e he serves with the heavy trotters add acid and bite, something he inadvertently learned from his mother. &amp;quot;We always had what my mom called a relish tray around during the holiday meals \u2014 a big plate on the table with mostly pickled vegetables. Pickled okra, green onions \u2014 I was learning how to cook and didn&amp;#039;t know it.&amp;quot;  2502 Algerian Way; 713-581-6101; havenhouston.com "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
<http://www.esquire.com/food-drink/restaurants/reviews/a8709/haven-houston-1110/>