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"Anti-Aging Makeup The promise: Youth-boosting skin-care ingredients such as retinol, peptides, and antioxidants are popping up in foundations, lipsticks, and blushes, with claims they&amp;#039;ll help minimize wrinkles and brown spots by improving their appearance even after you are no longer wearing the makeup.  The reality: When makeup is loaded with proven wrinkle-reducing ingredients like retinol and peptides, it can be effective, says Patricia Farris, M.D., a clinical assistant professor of dermatology at Tulane University School of Medicine in New Orleans. But to see an improvement over time, these ingredients must be present above certain concentrations. For vitamin C, it&amp;#039;s 5 to 10 percent, says Dr. Farris. For retinol, it&amp;#039;s at least 0.1 percent. Two products that have that 0.1 percent: GloMinerals GloCream Blush in Fig or Guava ($25 each, gloskincare.com). Beauty companies don&amp;#039;t often tell you these percentages, though you can hedge your bets by checking that active ingredients like vitamins and retinol are higher up on the ingredient list \u2014 and by choosing creamy formulas over powders. Retinol and vitamin E, for example, are oily materials. &amp;quot;They&amp;#039;re difficult to blend in powder at high levels because they make the particles stick together,&amp;quot; says Perry Romanowski, an independent cosmetics chemist. Instead, try a liquid such as L&amp;#039;Or\u00E9al Paris Visible Lift Line-Minimizing &amp;amp;amp; Tone-Enhancing Makeup ($14.25, drugstores) with pro-retinol and SPF 17. Also look closely at the claims. Few anti-aging cosmetics explicitly promise to eliminate wrinkles or sun damage, says Brandith Irwin, M.D., a Seattle dermatologist and author of The Surgery-Free Makeover. Instead, they &amp;quot;minimize the appearance of wrinkles&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;visibly reduce fine lines.&amp;quot; As for those studies showing a reduction in wrinkle depth, dermatologists often credit the moisture in makeup, not the anti-aging ingredients, for doing most of the heavy lifting. &amp;quot;The quickest way to make a wrinkle look better is to smear moisturizer on it,&amp;quot; Dr. Farris says. Skin is like a sponge, wrinkled and rough when dry, soft and smooth once you add water. Infusing it with hydrators is faster (and cheaper) than adding enough retinol or peptides to makeup to smooth skin long-term.  Bottom line: Turn-back-the-clock makeup may offer some benefits, but it probably won&amp;#039;t get you carded at the wineshop. What it can do: soften the look of your wrinkles with light-scattering pigment and moisturizers. Try: Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Plump Perfect Makeup SPF 15 ($39.50, department stores), Avon Anew Youth-Awakening Lipstick SPF 15 ($10, avon.com), and Raw Natural BeautyPrimal Pigments Botanical Lipstick ($20, rawbeauty.com).  The promise: Foundations, primers, and powders now pack the high SPFs (think 15-plus) for filtering out burning UVB rays, plus protection from skin-damaging UVA. Some even include a UVA rating developed in Japan: You&amp;#039;ll see a PA+, PA++, or PA+++ (to indicate the highest level of UVA protection).  The reality: Because the FDA regulates sun-protection claims, dermatologists are more enthusiastic about the efficacy of SPF cosmetics than of anti-aging makeup. So the number on the label truly reflects the level of UVB filters you&amp;#039;ll get. To bolster UVA protection (the rays that are mostly responsible for skin cancers and skin aging), cosmetics often include the minerals zinc and titanium. They form a shield on the skin&amp;#039;s surface, diffusing UV light before it can penetrate and damage your cells, Brandith Irwin, M.D., a Seattle dermatologist and author of The Surgery-Free Makeover, says. You&amp;#039;ll get even better coverage if your makeup contains both. Try Revlon Age Defying Spa Foundation SPF 18 ($14, drugstores) and Prescriptives All Skins Mineral Makeup SPF 15 ($32.50, department stores). Or choose makeup with SPF 30 or up, plus zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide. Try Jane Be Pure Mineral Skin Perfecting Foundation SPF 30 ($5.49, drugstores) and Shiseido Sun Protection Liquid Foundation SPF 42 PA+++ ($33.50, department stores). Even the more potent formulas can&amp;#039;t replace an SPF day cream. &amp;quot;Relying on makeup alone is like taking a boat intended for lagoon fishing out in the ocean,&amp;quot; says Fredric Brandt, M.D., a dermatologist in New York City and Miami. One reason: Most people don&amp;#039;t apply enough. You need about half a teaspoon for your face and neck to get the required thickness. Mineral-powder foundation, such as Colorescience Suncanny SPF 20 Foundation Brush ($60, colorescience.com), stays put longer, but priming skin with an SPF-infused facial lotion is still recommended. So why bother with SPF makeup? Sunscreen lotions and sprays alone let some UV light sneak through, and people skimp on application, just as they do with makeup. The best way to stay protected: Double up by layering makeup over a moisturizer containing an SPF of 15 or higher and UVA filters (Mexoryl, Helioplex, or avobenzone). Try Garnier Nutritioniste Ultra-Lift Pro Deep Wrinkle Cream SPF 20 ($17, drugstores) or SkinCeuticals Active UV Defense Sunscreen Cream SPF 15 ($29, skinceuticals.com).  Bottom line: Ultra-protective makeup is a boon for skin. But think of it as the Robin to your sunscreen&amp;#039;s Batman \u2014 a dynamic duo stronger together than either is alone.  The promise: Chemical-shunning makeup has hit the big time. From supermarkets to Saks, new products brim with ingredients only (or mostly) from nature, not the lab. Many claim skin-nourishing properties that are comparable or superior to their chemical counterparts.  The reality: Natural ingredients can be good for skin. Plant oils and shea and cocoa butters make fantastic moisturizers, Fredric Brandt, M.D., a dermatologist in New York City and Miami, says. Aloe and chamomile are soothing. And minerals have become the darlings of new makeup lines for sensitive skin. Just as important as what the natural formulas contain is what they leave out: Ideally, it&amp;#039;s a long list of potential irritants, including synthetic fragrance compounds and dyes that can aggravate sensitive skin, and parabens, which are not as allergenic as once thought, though companies are using both natural and synthetic substitutions instead. Try parabens-free Almay Pure Blends Makeup ($14, drugstores). Some powdered mineral makeup, like Jane Iredale Amazing Base Loose Minerals SPF 20 ($42, janeiredaledirect.com), doesn&amp;#039;t require a preservative at all. &amp;quot;If the formula doesn&amp;#039;t contain water, no preservatives are necessary,&amp;quot; Perry Romanowski, an independent cosmetics chemist, explains. (Consider tossing it if moisture gets in, though.) Natural isn&amp;#039;t always synonymous with benefits, however. &amp;quot;If you have sensitive skin, acne, or rosacea, be wary of products with a lot of plant and flower extracts,&amp;quot; says Brandith Irwin, M.D., a Seattle dermatologist and author of The Surgery-Free Makeover. They may contain various enzymes, proteins, and other compounds that increase the chance of an allergic reaction on the skin. Plant oils, which are made up of relatively simple fatty acids, are gentler on skin. Try Yes to Carrots C Me Shine Lip Gloss ($6.49, Walgreens) with castor-seed oil, or SukiColor Rich Pigment Mascara ($34, sukicolor.com) with sunflower-seed oil. Irritants may be lurking in mineral makeup, too. That&amp;#039;s because not all brands are pure minerals. A quick scan of the ingredients may turn up parabens and other fillers. One without them: Physicians Formula Mineral Wear Talc-Free 100% Mineral BronzeBrightener ($14, drugstores). Also be skeptical of claims made about natural antioxidants. Manufacturers may not use the most effective form. Just because vitamin C, for example, fights free radicals doesn&amp;#039;t mean orange juice or orange extract in your product will. &amp;quot;It won&amp;#039;t hurt you, but don&amp;#039;t pay extra for it,&amp;quot; Dr. Irwin says.  Bottom line: You&amp;#039;ll get the best green bang for your buck if the top half of the ingredient list contains naturals. But don&amp;#039;t buy into the good-for-you claims if you also find a laundry list of potential irritants. "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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