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"   Katie Ermilio&amp;#039;s fall collection. Photo: Getty Images  Jenni Kayne Inspired by the English countryside and the notion of the &amp;quot;perfect gentleman&amp;#039;s hunting weekend wardrobe,&amp;quot; Kayne took traditional menswear fabrics like herringbone and tweed and made them her own, mixing in pops of chartreuse, kelly green, yellow, and orange. The designer cited the collection&amp;#039;s two print looks as her favorites: one a blown-up, digitized image of whales gracing a top and skirt, the other a graphic floral\u2014&amp;quot;which I picture as wallpaper in an amazing English house in the countryside,&amp;quot; Kayne said\u2014covering a sheer top and maxi skirt. Katie Ermilio It&amp;#039;s a season of firsts for young designer Ermilio: she shaped her fall collection around hand-drawn patterns of stripes and dots, marking her first use of prints; introduced both hosiery (sheer with dots) and fur (fox and rabbit) into the mix; and &amp;quot;purged&amp;quot; herself of color, focusing instead largely on black and white for the first time. As she explained, &amp;quot;I did so much color last season, I knew I wanted something a little bit cleaner.&amp;quot; The influence of her father\u2014a bespoke menswear designer\u2014was felt in the use of men&amp;#039;s cashmere suit fabric in a lightweight rabbit fur jacket. Kimberly Ovitz Ivanka Trump and J.Crew&amp;#039;s Jenna Lyons turned up front row for Ovitz&amp;#039;s Gothic fall turn. A black-heavy palette was tempered with &amp;quot;mud&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;pine&amp;quot;-colored jersey dresses and sheer wolf-print chiffon tanks. Textural faux fur jackets, brushed velvet pants, and hair-accented skirts rounded out the offering.   From left to right, Jenni Kayne, Juan Carlos Obando &amp;amp;amp; Kaelen. Photos: Getty Images  TSE Making his return to the New York Fashion Week scene after a couple of years&amp;#039; absence, TSE&amp;#039;s new creative director, Brian Reyes, eased his way in with a low-key presentation in the knit-centric brand&amp;#039;s Soho boutique. Taking note that knits are often associated with words like &amp;quot;soft&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;casual,&amp;quot; Reyes was fascinated by ideas &amp;quot;foreign to knit,&amp;quot; thus finding inspiration in architecture and glass. A bubble-stitch sweater, for instance, was made &amp;quot;to look like an old-fashioned chandelier,&amp;quot; he explained. Katie Gallagher Against a backdrop mimicking fallen skyscrapers, Gallagher&amp;#039;s &amp;quot;Silent Soil&amp;quot;-dubbed collection, inspired by her rural Pennsylvania upbringing, boasted mossy-hued peplum tops, earthy-toned cropped jackets, and culminated in a black lace tiered dress. Kaelen Citing Art Deco and the &amp;#039;20s as her starting point, Kaelen Haworth turned out textural suiting, graphic black and white paneled dresses, and asymmetric gold wrap skirts for the modern-day flapper. One print, on a simple button-down, was based on a scanned-in piece of string, reworked on the computer &amp;quot;to look a little bit like lace,&amp;quot; the designer explained. Juan Carlos Obando The minimalist Lehmann Maupin gallery highlighted Juan Carlos Obando&amp;#039;s neon jacquard skirt suits, patchworked fur chubbies, and rash of brightly-hued halter dresses. Asymmetrical lines and sequined appliques were oft-used motifs within the collection. "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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