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"  No American drinks foam. Give one a glass a third full of the stuff at almost any bar, and he&amp;#039;ll indignantly ask, &amp;quot;The hell is this?&amp;quot; Especially for a pilsner. But the exception to this rule is Hospoda, a restaurant in Manhattan that pours the best drafts you&amp;#039;ll find. It&amp;#039;s a transplant from the Czech Republic, where the pilsner is the nectar of a nineteenth-century beer rebellion, and its bartenders use a unique tap system \u2014 christened the Bohemian Beer Quadrunner \u2014 to pump out four unique pours, each of which enhance the act of drinking in their own way, because of, yes, the foam. We thought we&amp;#039;d introduce you to them, and tell you how they pour such strange and delicious drafts. The Neat    You&amp;#039;ll almost never see this over in Pilsen, the city where, after the rebellion, the pilsner was invented \u2014 specifically by Pilsner Urquell, the first pilsner-makers in the world and the featured brew at Hospoda. Hand a beer without a head to a Czech, and he&amp;#039;ll accuse you of giving him flat swill. (You should, by the way, politely do the same for most styles of beer in America, by the way \u2014 unless its served up by Mila Kunis, who bragged that she can draft a foam-less beer and is gorgeous.) But without foam, the beer is darker, and the hops bite more than usual, nestling in the comfort zone of the American palate. The Creme Urquell    This is the classic Czech pour. About three fingers of head, which carries the sweetness and balances the hoppier bulk of the pour. Just tradition, plain and simple. But note how thick and pure the head is. No pockmarks on top \u2014 and not on a cream ale, but a pilsner. This is where the Quadrunner comes into play. Its taps are wider than most heads, and they feature three micro-filters, which meticulously control the amount of aeration in the flow \u2014 without any downtime, like there is when properly drafting a Guinness. (They actually found that a certain type of screen works best.) Crank the tap handle all the way open: pure liquid. Crank it halfway: pure foam. The Slice    A good deal more foreign. Three-quarters of a glass of head to drink through. Yes, through. Not to wait out as it shrinks. To engage. But because of the micro-filters and wide taps, the foam is silky \u2014 not the abrasive stuff you normally suffer through (or, if you&amp;#039;re particularly irreverent, splash out). This foam is sweet and delicious. And it makes it even more rewarding to drink down to the icy kick (the &amp;quot;slice&amp;quot;), which, in fact, tastes like a completely different beer when contrasted with the light sweetness of the foam. The Sweet    All foam. To drink. Mickey, one of the master bartenders, said that back in the day, some Czech bar clearing one of their kegs&amp;#039; foam decided it&amp;#039;d be better to not waste anything. We don&amp;#039;t exactly recommend this in all situations. But at Hospoda, the light foam carries all the beer&amp;#039;s sweet maltiness. It&amp;#039;s actually delicious. (Hospoda usually has a darker beer on tap, too, beside the Pilsner Urquell; it&amp;#039;s often a stout or brown ale. While the other pours still taste particularly amazing coming out of the Hospoda taps \u2014 Mickey recounted Brooklyn Brewery brewmaster Garrett Oliver having something of a religious when he tasted his beers out of Hospoda taps \u2014 a glass of these darker beers&amp;#039; foam lightly brings out all the coffee or chocolate notes. It could be a dessert.) A Quick Note on Lacing    After you&amp;#039;re done, the glasses get hand-washed in non-petroleum detergent, then placed in constantly circulating cold water till they&amp;#039;re needed. No drying on shelves. And so, no air or dirt. What this does is let the lacing strata \u2014 the lines of foam that mark each swig you take \u2014 form better. And there&amp;#039;s not much like drinking down a delicious glass of beer, and then getting to admire such a thing of beauty.  "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
<http://www.esquire.com/food-drink/drinks/a21201/mastering-the-pilsner/>