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"  Maybe we&amp;#039;re bragging, but we think the PM rolling cabinet is about as versatile as furniture gets. It&amp;#039;s a bookcase, a printer kiosk, a DVD-storage rack or a kitchen work\u00ADstation. It&amp;#039;s whatever storage you want, when and where you need it. Roll it from one place to another, set up shop, and move it again as required. We made the cart&amp;#039;s shelves wide and deep to accommodate those baskets you see popping up in furniture catalogs and in showrooms. Don&amp;#039;t like baskets? No problem\u2014it works just as well without them. Simplicity is a virtue, and this project is designed with that kind of goodness in mind. It&amp;#039;s made of just 12 wood parts and most of them are of the same material, red-oak plywood. You don&amp;#039;t need more than a handful of tools: a circular saw, a router, a pocket-screw jig and a drill driver. You&amp;#039;ve probably got these already. All that remains is a free weekend. Frankly, you won&amp;#039;t even need all of that time to knock out this cabinet. Here&amp;#039;s how to build it. Rolling Wood Cabinet Plans (PDF, 1MB, requires Adobe Reader) Step 1: Ripping the Shelves  Begin by ripping and crosscutting the shelves, the sides, the bottom and the top panel from red-oak plywood with a 40-tooth thin-kerf blade in a circular saw. Guide the saw with a straight piece of wood clamped across the panel, or use a clamping fence. Step 2: Cut the Rabbets  Clamp a straight piece of scrap to the panel&amp;#039;s edge to give the router a wide base to ride on. Cut a rabbet along the back edge of each side panel using a router and a ball-bearing rab\u00ADbet bit. Step 3: Iron the Veneer  With the sides ripped and rabbeted, iron on the veneer tape along their front edges. Let the veneer overhang the ends, and trim it to length using heavy-duty scissors or sheet-metal snips. The heat-activated glue on this veneer is very strong, but you still need to ensure the tape is properly bonded. To do this, burnish the tape using a block of wood.  Step 4: Cut Away Excess  Finally, shave the veneer to width using a file. Tip the file at a shallow 5- to 10-degree angle, and push it so its edge (not its face) cuts away excess veneer. Veneer the shelves and the case bottom in the same manner. Step 5: Build Up Thickness  Build up the thickness of the top panel by gluing and nailing pine blocks along its edges. Crosscut the pine pieces and place them carefully so that the top can drop neatly over the case sides. Then fasten them using glue and 3d finishing nails. Apply 2-inch-wide red-oak veneer tape to the ends first, and then tape the front edge. Iron the tape on, burnish it, and trim it just as you handled the sides. Step 6: Bore Pocket-Screw Holes  We used a Kreg jig to bore pocket-screw holes into the underside of each shelf and of the \u00ADbottom panel. Simply clamp the parts in the jig and bore the holes. Step 7: Assemble the Components  Next, drive coarse-thread pocket screws through these parts and into the case sides. Begin by attaching the case bottom, and then move on to the shelves. Next, crosscut the cleats to fit between the sides, and attach the cleats by driving screws through the case sides. There&amp;#039;s no need to conceal these screws since the top will cover them. Rip and crosscut the plywood back to fit the space between the rabbets and match the case length. Apply a coat of satin polyurethane to the front of the plywood back. Make small pencil marks on both case sides to indicate the center of each shelf, the bottom and the cleat. Place the back in the case, and draw lines across its back to indicate these centers. Nail along these lines to fasten the back to the sides, bottom and cleat. Step 8: Adding the Top  Finally, lightly hand-sand all parts with 120-grit abrasive paper, wipe off the dust, and apply a coat of satin polyurethane to the shelves and to the inside and outside of the side panels. When the coating is dry, lightly sand these parts with 220-grit abrasive paper. Wipe off the sanding dust and apply a second coat. Apply a coat of ebony stain to the top. When the stain is dry, apply two coats of polyurethane to the top using the same method you used on the case. When the top is completed, drop it over the cleats and drive screws through the cleats into the top. Step 9: Attach the Casters  We used rugged, solid-aluminum casters on this project. Screw the flange to the case bottom. "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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