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"The first time I visited Houston, it was for Vietnamese crayfish and Eastern European kolachke. But my most recent trip to Texas's best and most diverse food city (you heard me, Austin) was for high-wire dishes like heirloom potatoes roasted with vegetable ash in a restaurant whose unpretentious philosophy flips fine dining on its head. At the 31-seat &lt;a href=\"http://oxhearthouston.com/\" target=\"_blank\"&gt;Oxheart&lt;/a&gt;, run by Justin Yu and his wife, Karen Man, vegetables often steal the show. I'd tired of beet salads until I had Yu's: roasted and pur\u00E9ed beets, topped with savory granola and bitter almonds. That's just one of the pleasures that await at this loft-like spot near an I-10 underpass, where cooks do double duty as waiters and you retrieve your own silverware from a drawer in front of your seat. It's worth it for a $49, four-course menu with dishes like beef shank with Yellow Lunar carrots, seaweeds, and preserved lime. Man's breads get a well-deserved course of their own. This level of food and that kind of price? Houston, we do not have a problem.\r\n\r\n&lt;a href=\"http://www.bonappetit.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/oxheart-stay-on-course.gif\"&gt;&lt;img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-154171\" alt=\"oxheart-stay-on-course\" src=\"http://www.bonappetit.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/oxheart-stay-on-course.gif\" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;\r\n\r\n&amp;nbsp;\r\n\r\n&lt;strong&gt;OVERNIGHT IT&lt;/strong&gt;\r\n\r\nThe lamb, like all braises, tastes better after sitting for a day or two in its juices. Get the granola, milk jam, and squash done early too, freeing up oven and stove space. Starting the focaccia dough early is a must; its flavor improves overnight.\r\n\r\n&lt;strong&gt;FREEZE IT&lt;/strong&gt;\r\n\r\nBake the cake up to three weeks ahead and stick it in the freezer. It slices easily into tidy batons when frozen.\r\n\r\n&lt;strong&gt;TIME IT RIGHT&lt;/strong&gt;\r\n\r\nFor a warm start to the meal, put the focaccia in the oven when guests arrive. After the salad course, sear the broccoli steams while you reheat the lamb and squash. Caramelize the cake while the coffee brews.\r\n\r\n&lt;strong&gt;CLEAN-SLATE IT&lt;/strong&gt;\r\n\r\nThe lamb, like all braises, tastes better after sitting for a day or two in its juices. Get the granola, milk jam, and squash done early too, freeing up oven and stove space. Starting the focaccia dough early is a must; its flavor improves overnight.\r\n\r\n&lt;a href=\"http://www.bonappetit.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/oxheart-added-value.gif\"&gt;&lt;img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-154161\" alt=\"oxheart-added-value\" src=\"http://www.bonappetit.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/oxheart-added-value.gif\" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;strong&gt;THE SALAD&lt;/strong&gt;\r\n\r\nGranola is the new crouton, adding crunch to watercress and sweet grapes (Chef Yu peels his for a four-star effect). Spooning dressing onto the plate lets guests dress each bite themselves.\r\n\r\n&lt;strong&gt;THE APPETIZER&lt;/strong&gt;\r\n\r\nSimple flourishes\u2014like the crosshatch pattern on the broccoli stems\u2014will wow your guests while elevating even the humblest ingredients. The dish is still great without it, but we like the flair.\r\n\r\n&lt;strong&gt;THE ENTREE&lt;/strong&gt;\r\n\r\nBy cooking the lamb and squash a day (or more) ahead, Yu avoids big day-of projects. Don't omit any of the spices from the onion sauce; the French-Indian blend gives this rustic dish its unique richness.\r\n\r\n&lt;strong&gt;THE DESSERT&lt;/strong&gt;\r\n\r\nKaren Man's cake tastes modern, thanks to an unusual hit of juniper. That aromatic addition, along with the crunchy texture of the sugary batons, makes this unique. Baking it in advance is just smart strategy.     "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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