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In defence of the humble Indian avocado | Vogue | Vogue India
In defence of the humble Indian avocado \| Vogue \| Vogue India

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# In defence of the humble Indian avocado

Our native species of avocado may not be much to look at compared to its robust western counterpart, but here’s why it’s still a worthy contender

By [Sonal Ved](/author/Sonal-Ved)

25 July 2018

![Image may contain Plant Fruit Food and Avocado](https://assets.vogue.in/photos/5ce42b49cc50be141b13f481/2:3/w_2560%2Cc_limit/featured.-Recovered3.jpg)

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Whether you succumb to an [overpriced avocado](https://www.vogue.in/content/avocados-are-expensive-but-heres-why-you-shouldnt-give-up-on-them/) in the supermarket aisle with hopes of the perfect avocado toast picture for your Instagram feed, buy it to blend into your green juice for a detoxifying slurp, or just to slather its skin on your face or hair, one thing is clear—we're not giving up this trending fruit anytime soon. In fact, if food forecasters are to be believed, our love for avocado is only going to multiply. “We use about 40 kilos of avocados per week across our Mumbai outlets,” says Vanika Choudhary, founder of Sequel Bistro and Juice Bar, one of Mumbai's most sought-after eateries that is known for its avocado toasts.

Choudhary uses a southern Californian variety of avocado known as Hass at her restaurant, which she procures from the regions of Peru, Mexico and New Zealand. The same can be said for many Indian chefs who serve this vitamin-dense fruit in the form of bowls, bars and balls at their establishments. Many bundle the fruit with other imported food trends, when in fact, a version of it has been growing in the southern part of India all this while.

## Avocados in India

Little is spoken about the Indian counterpart growing abundantly in Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Kerala though. Known as the butter fruit here, it is commonly found at the kitchens of many local chefs. “The avocado tree cannot tolerate freezing temperatures and can only grow in subtropical or tropical climates which means there is a year-round supply of avocado in South India,” says chef Naveen Alvares of Evolve Back Chikkana Halli Estate in Coorg. His dishes use the Coorg variety that grows in their backyard farm, interspersed with other produce such as organic paddy, tapioca, tomatoes, beans, chilies and spinach. The 20 avocado trees yield sufficient produce to meet the demands of this kitchen. “It is locally known as benne hannu, venna pandu, vennai pazham and vennapazham,” he adds.

On a recent trip to rural Maharashtra, I discovered farms lush with avocados that I scooped open and savoured underneath a lanky tree, wondering how this Mexican ingredient got here in the first place. Unlike native Indian fruits such as carambola (starfruit), bael (wood apple), phalsa (sherbet berry) or targola (ice apple), the avocado is not indigenous to the country at all. The fruit possibly originated in Mexico, with discoveries of ancient pits going as far as 10,000 years ago. “In India, it arrived only in 1900s,” says chef Sandeep Sreedharan, founder of Mumbai-based restaurant Curry Tales and Esca Brahma, a gourmet catering service that works extensively with South Indian ingredients.

## The difference

The biggest difference between the Indian and international variety is the fat content in the fruit. “The more oil percentage in the fruit, the creamier its texture. Hass is popular because of its higher oil percentage—a good Hass will have above 18 per cent of oil content—compared to the India avocado, which is usually less that 12 per cent,” says Sreedharan. But this doesn't stop locavore chefs from going after the Indian variety. “Indian avocado is way nuttier in flavour and has firm flesh when it's opened at the right time,” says Alvares. He uses it with bird's eye chilli to make a chutney, smashes it into curd rice to uplift the traditional dish sometimes, or turns it into a raita.

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Sreedharan has observed that the Indian avocado is looked at more like a vegetable than a fruit. “For instance in Kerala, they add it to aviyal, while I eat it as chutney with dosas.” The international variety, on the other hand, enjoys being who it is—a fruit—and is often blitzed into a smoothie, perched on a poke bowl or blended into a mousse with dollops of raw cacao.

## What should make you pick the Indian avocado?

Technically, the biggest draw for the Indian avocado should be the price at which it is available—it can be bought at one third of the cost of the international ones. Surprisingly, this doesn't motivate too many people. “The Indian avocado is sold at Rs 500 per kilo, and Hass avocado costs 1500 per kg,” says Jay Jhaveri, COO at Foodhall, one India's leading food stores. With outlets in cities such as Mumbai, Delhi and Bengaluru, Foodhall sell about 400 kilos of Hass avocado, versus only 100 kilos of Indian butter fruit.

You can set aside the economics, but you may want to consider the carbon footprint generated by imported fruits. Chef-restauranteur Aditi Dugar from Masque, who runs a [farm-to-table restaurant](https://www.vogue.in/content/this-mumbai-restaurant-is-sourcing-seasonal-produce-directly-from-farmers/) in Mumbai, sources her avocados from Ooty. “If I want to be sustainable, it begins with reducing the carbon footprint. Sure, the Indian avocados are more watery, but the difference is quite negligible,” she explains. At Masque, they use it to make okonomiyaki, which is a Japanese pancake, and add it to their Mexican tacos.

While the two variants are almost at par with each other nutrition-wise, AK Singh, professor of horticulture from the Horticulture Research Centre at GB Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Uttarakhand, feels that the Indian variety is better suited for local inhabitants, because the plant bearing the fruit is acclimatised to the Indian climate. “There is little or no research to prove which one is superior, though,” he explains. According to him, it is the lack of awareness and easy access to the Indian avocado that has contributed to underwhelming sales in the market. Think about it, how many times has the vendor coaxed you to buy that round-ish, shiny Indian butter fruit over the exotic looking pear-shaped Hass?

Singh and I are hopeful. In the last few years, plantations are also cropping up in pockets of Maharashtra (Nashik and Pune) and some parts of Sikkim. “Local farmers have also realised its demand and are investing in avocado farms. In few years, you'll see a lot more of the Indian avocado,” he promises.

## Is there a way to incorporate avocados in Indian cooking?

Short answer—of course. Considering that the avocado has been cultivated for a while in one part of the country anyway, it is but obvious that it should have made its way to the local cuisine in some form or another. And chefs have been experimenting with the fruit as well. If you're looking for a way to cook the avocado Indian-style, try this easy recipe by chef Naveen Alwares.

## Curried avocado by chef Naveen Alvares

Ingredients

One butter fruit, juice of one lemon, ¼ cup coriander leaves, eight curry leaves, salt to taste, one tbsp sesame oil, one tsp mustard seeds, one garlic (minced), ½ cup onion (chopped), ½ tsp curry powder, two green chillies (finely chopped)

Method

Cut the avocado in half. Remove the seed, scoop out the pulp with a spoon and chop it roughly. Blend in lime juice, coriander, curry leaves and salt, and set aside. Heat oil in a pan over medium-high heat. When it is hot, add the mustard seeds.When the spluttering stops, add the garlic and sauté for 20-25 seconds. Add the onion and cook, sauté till brown. Add curry powder and chillies and mix well. Continue cooking for a minute. Pour in some warm water and continue cooking for a few minutes. Add avocado mixture and turn off the heat. Stir to mix all the ingredients and serve.

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