I grandi innovatori: 13 momenti che hanno cambiato la moda per ...
I nomi li conosciamo tutti - Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, Miuccia Prada, Rei Kawakubo -, ...
Chanel
“Queste donne, le vestirò di nero eccome!”, è nota per aver dichiarato la sempre irriverente <anchor>Chanel</anchor>. Il risultato fu l’ LBD, il vestitino nero, un modello che rappresentava l’intenzione di Chanel di cancellare le disuguaglianze e che fu presentato al mondo con un’illustrazione su American Vogue. Il disegno raffigura un vestito nero al ginocchio con le maniche lunghe. Si tratta di un modello comodo e pratico, persino tradizionale, per gli standard attuali. Ma andando indietro al 1926, quel vestito incarnava lo spirito progressista degli anni ruggenti. Chanel aveva sfidato le norme, rigettando l’idea classista che i vestiti neri fossero da riservare alle divise della servitù e ai funerali – una scelta che sarebbe diventata la chiave del suo successo.
SEVEN WONDERS: HOW COCO CHANEL CHANGED THE COURSE OF WOMEN’S FASHION | Wonderland
SEVEN WONDERS: HOW COCO CHANEL CHANGED THE COURSE OF WOMEN’S FASHION \| Wonderland[Skip to content](#content)

# [Wonderland.](/)

- [Fashion](/category/fashion/)
- [Music](/category/music/)
- [Beauty](/category/beauty/)
- [Culture](/category/art-culture/)

- [Magazine](/category/magazine/)
- [Shop](https://www.wonderlandshop.com/)
- [Info](/info/contact/)
- [About](/about/)

[instagram](https://www.instagram.com/wonderland/) [tiktok](https://www.tiktok.com/@wonderlandmagazine) [x](https://x.com/wonderlandmag) [youtube](https://www.youtube.com/@wonderlandmagazine) [pinterest](https://www.pinterest.com/wonderlandmag/) [facebook](https://www.facebook.com/WonderlandMagazine)

- [instagram](https://www.instagram.com/wonderland/)
- [tiktok](https://www.tiktok.com/@wonderlandmagazine)
- [x](https://x.com/wonderlandmag)
- [youtube](https://www.youtube.com/@wonderlandmagazine)
- [pinterest](https://www.pinterest.com/wonderlandmag/)
- [facebook](https://www.facebook.com/WonderlandMagazine)

Subscribe

# [Wonderland.](/)

## SEVEN WONDERS: HOW COCO CHANEL CHANGED THE COURSE OF WOMEN’S FASHION

With The LCF opening an exhibition tomorrow of [Coco Chanel portraits by Marion Pike](/2013/08/qa-jeffie-pike-durham-on-painting-coco-chanel/), we look back at the seven ways the designer revolutionised women’s fashion.

![marion-pike-vogue-2-5aug13-pr_b-387x581](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2013/09/marion-pike-vogue-2-5aug13-pr_b-387x581.jpg)

Arguably the most influential fashion designer of all time, Coco [Chanel](/tag/chanel/) revolutionised the way women wore clothes and paved a new way for the fashion brand, capitalising on the changing times she was living in and her status as a fashion icon. With The London College of Fashion opening an exhibition of portraits of the designer painted by her friend and artist Marion Pike on tomorrow, Wonderland looks back on seven ways the designer changed the course of fashion history.

![7WondersCocoChanelWomen's Trousers](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2013/09/Womens-Trousers-e1378303054843.jpg)

**1\. Trousers For Women**

Although during the war women often had to wear trousers when working in traditionally male jobs, Chanel played a huge part in accelerating their popularity as a fashion item. While at the society beach resort of Deauville she chose to wear sailor’s pants instead of a swimming costume to avoid exposing herself, and the style spread quickly as her legions of followers emulated her. In the end, the designer regretted how her careless decision affected the course of fashion history. Aged 86 she said: “I came up with them by modesty.  From this usage to it becoming a fashion, having 70% of women wearing trousers at evening dinner is quite sad.”

![7WondersCocoChanelSuntan](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2013/09/Suntan1.jpg)

**2\. Suntan**

At the start of the 20th century, pale was in— skin that was in any way brown was associated with the lower classes. In 1923 Chanel made suntan a covetable fashion accessory when she accidently got sunburned while on a cruise on the French Riviera. On her return to Paris, her peers greatly admired her dark glow and quickly followed suit. The tan became a sign of wealth and beauty, a trend that has had lasting effects. By default, you could say we have her to thank for sun beds, streaky fake tan and orange hands too.

![7WondersCocoChanelJersey](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2013/09/Jersey-e1378303105945.jpg)

**3\. Jersey**

Chanel was the first designer to use jersey, which at the time was reserved for men’s underwear. Simple, practical and comfortable, the fabric was the complete antithesis of what women’s clothing had previously been: flashy, excessive and based around an uncomfortable corset. This choice of material was also one of necessity: the war had resulted in a short supply of more expensive fabric, and early in her career it was an affordable option to buy in bulk.

![7WondersCocoChanelChanelNo5](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2013/09/ChanelNo5-e1378303128778.jpg)

**4\. Branded Perfume**

In 1921 Chanel No. 5 was launched, the first scent that smelt deliberately artificial. It was made of unnatural ingredients, unlike the standard perfumes of the day, which were created with floral components. Although Paul Poiret was the first fashion house with its own scent, the designer missed a trick by declining to put his name on the bottle. Chanel ingeniously put hers on No.5, spreading the brand to a whole new market. Fast forward 90 years later and most major fashion labels worth their salt have their own scent, with perfume profits often exceeding those of the apparel.

![7WondersCocoChanelCostume Jewellery](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2013/09/Costume-Jewellery-e1378303150671.jpg)

**5\. Costume Jewellery**

Again it was Paul Poiret who first used costume jewellery in his collections, but when Chanel introduced fake large pearls and glittering gemstones the trend really began to take off. Combining the real with the fake, the extravagant bling was the perfect accompaniment to her minimalist clothes. The designer thought it best to have a pile of imitation jewels then to stick to one or two expensive real ones, and her wealthy customers agreed. Although there was a market for fake jewellery previously, it was reserved for those who couldn’t afford the real deal.

![7WondersCocoChanelBlack Dress](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2013/09/Black-Dress.jpg)

**6\. The Little Black Dress**

It’s hard to imagine a world without black as a foolproof outfit colour choice, but before Chanel the colour was reserved for funerals and widows in mourning. The fashionable reds, green and electric blues that her peers dressed in made the designer “feel ill.” “These colours are impossible,” she declared. “These women, I’m bloody well going to dress them in black!” In 1926, Vogue published a sketch of her calf-length simple black sheath and labelled it a “frock that all the world would wear”. A wardrobe staple was born.

![7WondersCocoChanelThe Chanel Suit](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2013/09/The-Chanel-Suit-e1378303257975.jpg)

**7\. The Chanel Suit**

The designer was one of the first to borrow from menswear for women’s attire when she created her iconic suits. Consisting of a collarless boxy wool jacket with braid trim, fitted sleeves and metallic embellished buttons with accompanying slimline skirt, the outfit was the perfect choice for the post-war woman who was trying to build a career in the male-dominated workplace. The suit was favoured by celebrities like Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly, and made its mark on history when Jackie Kennedy wore it on the day her husband was assassinated.

**_The ‘Coco Chanel: A New Portrait by Marion Pike, Paris 1967-1971’ exhibition opens tomorrow at the [LCF Fashion Space Gallery.](http://blogs.arts.ac.uk/fashion/2013/08/22/coco-chanel-at-lcf/)_**

_Words: Eleanor Dunne (follow Eleanor on Twitter [@eleanordun1](https://twitter.com/eleanordun1))_

4 September 2013

[7 Wonders](/category/7-wonders/)

[Fashion](/category/fashion/)

[New Noise: Fé](/2013/09/05/new-noise-fe/)

[Video Exclusive: Miles Alridge, Nicola Formichetti and Kaimin Collaboration](/2013/09/04/video-exclusive-miles-alridge-nicola-formichetti-and-kaimin-collaboration/)

SEVEN WONDERS: HOW COCO CHANEL CHANGED THE COURSE OF WOMEN’S FASHION

1/5 [Next Post](next)

#### Related → Related → Related → Related → Related → Related → Related → Related → Related → Related → Related → Related → Related → Related → Related → Related → Related → Related → Related → Related →

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2023/09/TB_SS24_SHOW_TH_0116-345x483.jpg)](/2023/09/20/female-designers/)[Long gone are the days of male designers ruling womenswear, and this season’s New York and London fashion weeks are prime examples.](/2023/09/20/female-designers/)

[Fashion](/category/fashion/)

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2023/12/IMG_4568-345x483.jpeg)](/2023/12/15/coco-jones/)[Coco at Koko: we went down to R&B superstar Coco Jones' headline in the English capital, talking Grammy nominations, Bel-Air and finding her voice.](/2023/12/15/coco-jones/)

[Music](/category/music/)

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2024/02/Screenshot-2024-01-13-at-13.37.39-min-345x483.jpg)](/2024/02/14/patrick-mcdowell-a-tragedy-of-fashion/)[Sustainable fashion designer Patrick McDowell invites viewers on an introspective journey toward inner beauty in his whimsical SS24 campaign.](/2024/02/14/patrick-mcdowell-a-tragedy-of-fashion/)

[Fashion](/category/fashion/)

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2023/06/chanel_edinburgh-ephemeral-boutique-1-1-LD-345x483.jpg)](/2023/06/13/chanel-edinburgh/)[Chanel unveils a new boutique, housed in a 19th century townhouse with a beautiful medley of Scottish and French elegance.](/2023/06/13/chanel-edinburgh/)

[Fashion](/category/fashion/)

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2023/05/BLEU-DE-CHANEL-Announcement-Visual-345x483.jpeg)](/2023/05/15/timothee-chalamet-bleu-de-chanel/)[Timothée Chalamet discusses his new role as the ambassador of Bleu de Chanel fragrance, with an interview exclusive to Wonderland.](/2023/05/15/timothee-chalamet-bleu-de-chanel/)

[Culture](/category/art-culture/)

[Fashion](/category/fashion/)

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2023/10/PA2023_22_0080_CMYK-345x483.jpeg)](/2023/10/11/bleu-de-chanel/)[Take an inside look at Martin Scorsese’s new Bleu de Chanel campaign — a story of freedom and self-discovery starring Timothée Chalamet.](/2023/10/11/bleu-de-chanel/)

[Fashion](/category/fashion/)

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2024/04/image001-345x483.jpg)](/2024/04/18/lv-womens-pre-fall-2024/)[Livestream Louis Vuitton Women's Pre-Fall 2024 show from the Long Museum West Bund in Shanghai...](/2024/04/18/lv-womens-pre-fall-2024/)

[Fashion](/category/fashion/)

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2024/04/VAC_PR_Grand-Lady-Kalla_1_Conf1_LFST1-345x483.jpg)](/2024/04/09/vacheron-constantin/)[At 2024's Watches and Wonders, Vacheron Constantin’s latest chapter puts the hype in Horology.](/2024/04/09/vacheron-constantin/)

[Fashion](/category/fashion/)

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2024/03/Copy-of-IMG_0567-345x483.jpg)](/2024/03/08/international-womens-day-with-rly/)[The dynamic group of five women, RLY, share their latest empowering single and a curated playlist just for you...](/2024/03/08/international-womens-day-with-rly/)

[Music](/category/music/)

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2023/06/EVA-VIK-Second-Image-1-345x483.jpeg)](/2023/06/27/eva-vik/)[Renowned award-winning Czech director Eva Vik, reshapes her identity, breaks norms and embraces heritage.](/2023/06/27/eva-vik/)

[Culture](/category/art-culture/)

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2024/03/Little-Women-345x483.jpg)](/2024/03/08/films-to-celebrate-international-womens-day/)[In celebration of this International Women's Day, here is a curated list of women-led films including Little Women, Marie Antoinette and more.](/2024/03/08/films-to-celebrate-international-womens-day/)

[Culture](/category/art-culture/)

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2023/03/IMG_9143-345x483.jpg)](/2023/03/23/screen-wonders-4/)[From HBO's Succession reaching its conclusion, to the release of the hotly-anticipated The Little Mermaid trailer - Screen Wonders is here.](/2023/03/23/screen-wonders-4/)

News

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2023/04/341818286_3451103105174791_3064058585356094685_n-345x483.jpg)](/2023/04/19/screen-wonders-april-19/)[From the newest look into The Weeknd's The Idol to a preview of Pete Davidson's semi-true story — this week's trailer round-up is here.](/2023/04/19/screen-wonders-april-19/)

[Culture](/category/art-culture/)

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2023/05/Screenshot-2023-05-03-at-5.44.58-pm-345x483.jpeg)](/2023/05/03/screen-wonders-may-3/)[A look into Dune: Part Two, the Hunger Games prequel, The Flash, and more: this week's roundup of trailers is here.](/2023/05/03/screen-wonders-may-3/)

[Culture](/category/art-culture/)

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2023/05/tom-holland-the-crowded-room-645baedf909ab-345x483.jpg)](/2023/05/11/screen-wonders-may-11/)[Tom Holland in The Crowded Room, the final season of Never Have I Ever, and more: our trailer roundup is here!](/2023/05/11/screen-wonders-may-11/)

[Culture](/category/art-culture/)

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2023/05/unnamed-file-345x483.jpeg)](/2023/05/18/screen-wonders-may-17/)[Sydney Sweeney in Reality, a new season of The Kardashians, and more: this week’s trailer roundup is here!](/2023/05/18/screen-wonders-may-17/)

[Culture](/category/art-culture/)

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2023/07/355816357_1251906468845956_4339655731121359127_n-345x483.jpg)](/2023/07/20/screen-wonders-5/)[A SAG-AFTRA approved roundup: A24’s Death of a Unicorn and Mother Mary are among the selected films granted permission to continue filming during the strikes.](/2023/07/20/screen-wonders-5/)

[Culture](/category/art-culture/)

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2023/10/crowns6-2-644a826ba732d-345x483.jpeg)](/2023/10/10/screen-wonders-the-crown/)[From The Hunger Games saga to the season finale of The Crown, our latest trailer roundup is coming in hot!](/2023/10/10/screen-wonders-the-crown/)

[Culture](/category/art-culture/)

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2023/10/SLTB_2023_FG_00013402_Still013_R-345x483.jpg)](/2023/10/26/screen-wonders-6/)[Lost track of all the good movies and series coming in the following month? We’ve got you covered. Here's this week’s highlights.](/2023/10/26/screen-wonders-6/)

[Culture](/category/art-culture/)

[![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2024/02/Rouge-Allure-Velvet-Nuit-Blanch-Institutional-Visual.jpeg)](/2024/02/20/chanel-rouge-allure-velvet-nuit-blanche-pop-up/)[Chanel announces their temporary beauty boutique this March in the elegant city of Edinburgh, an adored location of Gabrielle Chanel...](/2024/02/20/chanel-rouge-allure-velvet-nuit-blanche-pop-up/)

[Beauty](/category/beauty/)

Edit with Live CSS

Save

Write CSS OR LESS and hit save. CTRL + SPACE for auto-complete.

![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2018/04/AllyssaHeuze_wonderland_prada_CMYK_13.jpg)![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2018/04/01_0272-1.jpg)![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2018/04/AAA6960.jpg)![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2018/04/Mette_JacquelineHarriet_005-1.jpg)![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2018/04/Video-Troye-Sivan-for-Web_3.gif)![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2016/12/75040010.jpg)![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2016/12/Screen-Shot-2017-07-10-at-16.12.04.jpg)![](//media.wonderlandmagazine.com/uploads/2013/04/ABOUT.jpg)

Close

## Sign up to our Newsletter

"\*" indicates required fields

First Name\*

Last Name\*

Email Address\*

Name

This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.