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Entering the ancient quarry, at first it was almost impossible to imagine what it must have been like in April 1917, when 24,000 British soldiers prepared to emerge into the midst of enemy lines in what was to become one of most renowned surprise attacks during World War 1. Wellington Quarry (La Carrière Wellington) is housed in a contemporary museum in Arras. The Memorial Wall names the many Commonwealth troops that lost men during the Battle of Arras. A row of rather forlorn poppy wreaths rested against it, including one from Canada, a reminder of their key role in WW1.
Having had a look round the foyer exhibition of posters and an art installation of plaster sculptures vaguely reminiscent of the tortured figures at Pompeii, we given helmets and headsets and got into a lift to go 20 meters underground .
Well-lit with a circular map outlining the battlelines, listening to our guide explaining historic facts and military strategy, I had  a feeling of being on a school trip to a rather dry War Museum.  Of course, I was supposed to be moved by the enormity of it all but to be honest, I was feeling rather detached.
However, as we went deeper into Wellington Quarry the enormity of this major engineering feat and the men who achieved it, began to sink in. “From the arrival of the British in the Arras sector in March 1916, New Zealand Tunneling Companies [helped by ‘Bantams’ from the mining towns of Northern England] dug a network of tunnels in the ground underneath the Ronville and Saint-Saveur districts of Arras. They dug new tunnels and rooms and joined them up with the existing ancient tunnels and quarries or pits already under the city, quarried out hundreds of years before. The tunnels were fitted with running water and electricity supplies. Accommodation in the underground city was available for the soldiers to live and sleep in, and there was a large hospital for treating the wounded in a labyrinth of rooms with enough space to fit 700 beds and operating theatres … Signposted names and numbers were given to the tunnels and rooms underground. The New Zealanders based in this particular system named the place Wellington, after the capital city of New Zealand.”
One photo made us all smile. Looking like the archetypal Englishman, an officer smoking a pipe is stroking a kitten. It’s a charming scene – and then you see that the kitten appears to be sitting on top of a bomb …
In the lead up to their emergence into the German battle ground, about 24,ooo men were billeted here for 8 days. What must they have been thinking during that tense time? Even playing cards, writing letters home, cleaning kit, cooking and preparing weapons can surely not have kept fear at bay. Yet the true horror of this ‘Great War’ was not fully realised at the time and they were hopefully feeling positive about victory.
Soldiers – Wellington Quarry soldiers Arras
An extract from a soldier’s journal was very poignant listening as was the sight of everyday objects, including tin plates and jugs alongisde a pair of big boots lying beneath a rickety looking bunk-bed. Gradually the claustrophobic atmosphere made itself felt. A plain table and cross showed where they may have prayed before the ‘push’. A wreath of poppies in honour of the Suffolk Regiment had been left by recent visitors from the UK who come here in huge numbers to learn more about this significant moment in history.
In memory of the Suffolk Regiment
Finally we reached the shallow steps that took these soldiers out of the labyrinth. In silence we gazed up towards a blocked off wall and tried to imagine what they must have felt prior to the explosion that thrust them into midst of an enemy taken completely unawares by this ingenious attack. Impossible …
The 1917 Battle of Arras took place between 9th April and 16th May. After initial success for British troops due to the element of surprise it became a bloody disaster.  There were almost 160,000 British and about 125,000 German casualties. And it’s this knowledge that makes a visit to the Wellington Quarry such a memorable and thought-provoking experience.
Soldier – Wellington Quarry
The war damage has been repaired and the main squares are masterpieces of restoration. With a splendid Belfry, surrounded by Flemish Baroque townhouses with arcades of restaurants and cafes, it’s difficult to imagine that beneath the city lies a huge complex that so sensitively commemorates the brave soldiers who passed this way.
Arras Bell Tower at night
I travelled to France as a guest of Northern France TourismNorthern France Tourism. We stayed at the charming Hotel d’Angleterre in the centre of Arras, in front of which stands an impressive war memorial to the many who died in two World Wars.
Arras War Memorial in front of the Hotel d’Angleterre
Read more about the Great War here:
To France in the footsteps of WW1 poet Wilfred Owen
Notre Dame de Lorette WW1 Military Necropolis
Lovely Lincoln & beyond - a portrait in words & pictures
Ottawa: 8 fun ways to celebrate Canada's 150th birthday
3 great reasons to travel with 'My Ferry Link' to France
Zoë Dawes November 11, 2014 at 2:55 pm
At this time of remembrance and the centenary of WW1, visiting these historic sites is a truly effective way for those of us who have had no experience of war, to get some inkling of what that dreadful period of our history must have been like. I found this visit incredibly affecting.
John MacBeath November 17, 2014 at 7:34 pm
It must have been an amazing engineering feat. Bet it was very cramped working in those conditions. But what a waste of young lives in that awful war.
Zoë Dawes November 17, 2014 at 8:44 pm
It was very impressive John but yes, the loss of life on both sides was dreadful and so often just for the sake of a few hundred yards of land. This trip made WW1 a bit more graspable and was really compelling.
Mary @ Green Global Travel November 19, 2014 at 3:14 am
Wow, this is impressive in many ways. Very interesting to visit history like this.
Zoë Dawes November 19, 2014 at 11:10 am
Yes, Mary it’s a great way to have it brought to life, but as ever, can only give a little glimpse of what the reality mush have been like. Arras is a lovely town now and the scars of war are barely visible.
Mark November 26, 2014 at 9:16 pm
More people should visit places like this to learn more about what happened in WW1. You only have to dig a bit into the history and I still can’t begin to imagine what it must of been like. I found this post very moving
Turtle December 1, 2014 at 12:37 pm
I’ve been really enjoying reading stories this year in connection with the centenary of WWI. I hadn’t heard much about Wellington Quarry so this is quite interesting. I can’t even imagine what it was like for the men back then in these situations!
Tamworth Blogger December 1, 2014 at 4:28 pm
This post shows history in a great way. people should appreciate more what these people have done to save their country 🙂 Very nice post, shows that still are people that remember
Zoë Dawes December 2, 2014 at 12:40 pm
Yes, it is important we don’t forget the huge loss of life but also incredible feats of engineering and accomplishment during that awful war.
Zoë Dawes December 2, 2014 at 12:42 pm
Thanks for your commment Michael. It’s only when you are actually in the tunnels that you begin to relasie what it must have been like – but we were a small group and they were thousands … Incredible accomplishment.
David Vercoe - Rogers September 27, 2015 at 6:25 pm
Today is a time to remember my Grandfather Lieutenant John Vercoe-Rogers whilst serving with the 78 Bn.Winnipeg Grenadiers Manatoba of the Canadian Expedtionary Force was Killed in Action, 27 September 1918 . Whilst clearing the enemy from Bourlon Wood towards the Canal du Nord, Nintey Seven years ago today. Buried at Quary Wood Cemetry.
I believe this is where the Battalion Headquarters were not seen it yet . RIP Grandfather from Grandson David Vercoe-Rogers R.E. and GreatGrand children
Zoe Dawes September 27, 2015 at 7:26 pm
Thank you so much for sharing this David and I do hope you get to see where your Grandfather is buried.
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