I am Caucasian. I sunburn easily.  I do not wear sunscreen a lot. I live in Austin, TX. I lived in California but moved when I was 9. I live where this is less sunshine. I love rollerskating. I started roller-skating at 15.  My father gave me my first pair of rollerblades at 15. I do not surf. I listen to reggae and rock music. I do not like to read. I cook my meals at home. I've never eaten a grasshopper. I watch my weight.
I have eaten a grasshopper before. I am terrible at rollerblading. I live in Florida. I like low tides for surfing. I wipe out on waves often. I started surfing when I was a child. My father surfs. I grew up in Florida. I listen to Jason Mraz. I like the book Twilight. I like stories about vampires. I have not been to Austin, TX. I have not traveled outside of FL often. I have surfed in California.
Do you think Florida or California has better waves? I think California has better waves.  I hate to say that because Florida is my home, but I think it's true.  It's also got more diverse coastlines for different surfing conditions. Because of all of the surfing songs including California that's exactly what I was thinking your answer would be.  So would you then be using different boards under different conditions or is that not necessary?  You definitely can.  I like to keep it simple and go with what I know, but there are definitely people who are particular about using different boards in different conditions.  I'm just happy to be out on the surf. I don't surf however I highly respect the sport.  I love sports that require balance I've just not gotten into surfing as of yet.  Notice I said yet because I am not ruling it out in the future.  Do you know anyone that started surfing as an adult personally?  I'm sure that a lot of people do unlike you that was lucky enough to have your dad as a surfer early on.  It's definitely easier to learn when you're young, but I know plenty of people who learned when they were adults.  Some of the regulars at my favorite beach I saw when they were first learning.  Surfing is nice because when you fall into the water it doesn't hurt like learning to ice skate. I never looked at it that way in terms of the pain factor when you fall.  You are absolutely right about that.  I do imagine that some falls can cause the water to smack so hard that you think there was pavement perhaps.  Please say that you have never experienced that? I don't surf in waves quite that large.  Maybe in Hawai'i or northern California, but around here it's like falling into a bed of pillows!