How does this artwork elucidate its Origins and design?
It is difficult to pinpoint the exact country or region where the escoffion first originated, because the style as it is now known developed in a number of stages over almost a century. In the 15th century, there was an upsurge of interest in large, sometimes extravagant headwear, which emerged into popular court fashion across Europe. Prior to the 14th century, simple veils or hoods which were fitted close to the face had been the most popular form of headwear for women of all classes. The hair was completely covered by the hoods, sometimes even shaved or plucked to heighten the hairline; this was a common symbol of female attractiveness at the time. The material of the hood grew in length leading up to the end of the 14th century, eventually resulting in one or more lengths of material hanging down the back of the wearer, sometimes being so long that they had to be tucked into a belt or dress so that the wearer would not trip over it. Progressing into the late 14th century, hair was still being covered, but larger headdresses -  rolls of material of various shapes, such as a heart, turban or double-horned shapes - were placed on top of these coverings. It was only later that the double-horned configuration got its own name; the escoffion.Shown to the right is a detail of an illumination on parchment showing Queen Isabeau of Bavaria wearing a heart-shaped escoffion. The headpiece was worn mostly by women of the court, or those of a higher class. The conventions surrounding who was able to wear the escoffion is covered in the Medieval clothing laws and headwear section below. Court fashion had become increasingly more extravagant across Europe in the Late Middle Ages, particularly in England, France, Germany and other countries in Western Europe. The escoffion varied in terms of style across Europe, with the English 'Tudor' escoffion coming into prominence. Essentially, the Tudor style of headwear was a more subdued and conservative version of the original large headdress.
Late Middle Ages Isabeau of Bavaria right Queen Isabeau of Bavaria France Middle Ages Queen Isabeau Medieval clothing laws and headwear England Germany