My brother is a surfer, or a wave rider. 
that's really awesome! I always wanted to learn how to ride waves but honestly i get so scared when i see a big wave coming my way
Body boarding may be a better option for you! This is where you lay on your belly on the board. Easier to keep balance.
i tried that and guess what happened? the wave hit me so hard i hit my stomach on a board and it hurt really bad
Oh no that sounds unpleasant! Maybe you should just watch then. Some people surf on their knees, it's called knee boarding!
i've never seen anybody knee boarding! I feel like it's harder
refers to the act of riding a wave with a board, regardless of the stance used. There are several types of boards. The native peoples of the Pacific, for instance, surfed waves on alaia, paipo, and other such craft, and did so on their belly and knees. The modern-day definition of surfing, however, most often refers to a surfer riding a wave standing up on a surfboard; this is also referred to as stand-up surfing.
Another prominent form of surfing is body
Usually I wouldn't go for something like that because I'd be too scared. The chances of it f**king up are so great, so now when I look back at getting to the final I'm like, 'That was f**king lucky'. I hadn't really done much for four years leading up to that and that part of my life was quite sad and dramatic. So all of these songs coming out now reflects that. There is a part of my brain that's saying, 'Ooh, you better