My brother is a surfer, or a wave rider. 
that's really awesome! I always wanted to learn how to ride waves but honestly i get so scared when i see a big wave coming my way
Body boarding may be a better option for you! This is where you lay on your belly on the board. Easier to keep balance.
i tried that and guess what happened? the wave hit me so hard i hit my stomach on a board and it hurt really bad
boarding, when a surfer rides a wave on a bodyboard, either lying on their belly, drop knee, or sometimes even standing up on a body board. Other types of surfing include knee boarding, surf matting (riding inflatable mats), and using foils. Body surfing, where the wave is surfed without a board, using the surfer's own body to catch and ride the wave, is very common and is considered by some to be the purest form of surfing.
Three major subdivisions within stand-up
Usually I wouldn't go for something like that because I'd be too scared. The chances of it f**king up are so great, so now when I look back at getting to the final I'm like, 'That was f**king lucky'. I hadn't really done much for four years leading up to that and that part of my life was quite sad and dramatic. So all of these songs coming out now reflects that. There is a part of my brain that's saying, 'Ooh, you better