"All life insurance is pretty much the same when it comes to cost. You can run the numbers over certain time period and the actual cost of insurance is about the same. A simplified way to explain life insurance and the differences between them below: The 3 characteristics of life insurance: There are 5 popular types of life insurance and they are: Term Whole Life Universal Life Variable Universal Life Indexed Universal Life But first, one must understand the most basic life insurance which is called Annual Renewable Term:  This is a policy that covers 1 year and is renewable every year after. The cost of insurance typically increases each year as the insured ages. So for every year of coverage, your premium increases like in the simplified illustration above. This is the building block of all life insurance, term or permanent. There is no cash value; all premium goes to the cost of insurance.  This is an ART that spans over a longer time period than 1 year (say 5, 10, 15, 20 or 30 years). All the cost is added together then divided by the number of years of coverage to give a level premium payment for the duration of the policy. The longest coverage offered these days is 30 years. There is no cash value; all premium goes to the cost of insurance. The premium is fixed (level) for the term specified. If the policy comes to an end and the owner wishes to renew it, it will be at higher premium. This can be seen in the simplified illustration above for a 15-year term policy.  Because life insurance gets very expensive as you reach old age, life insurance companies came up with a way to make it affordable for the consumer wishing to have coverage for their entire lifespan. They allow you to have interest rate crediting on the cash value account inside the policy.  To have cash value in the first place, you must pay premiums that are more than the cost of insurance. The idea is: your cash value grows over time to help pay for the cost of insurance in the later stages of the policy, where the cost of insurance is typically higher. This is illustrated above in an overly simplified way. This is a permanent life insurance policy that is designed to cover the lifespan of the insured. There is cash value that is credited on a fixed interest rate specified by the insurance company (typically 3-5%). The premium is fixed for the life of the policy. It was designed for insuring the entire lifespan of the insured. This is variation of Whole Life. There is cash value; it is credited on a fixed interest rate specified by the insurance company, but it does fluctuate year to year depending on the economy (typically 3-6%). The premium is flexible; you can increase/decrease the premium.  This is basically a universal life policy, but the cash value sits in an account that is invested in the market, normally mutual funds. Your interest that is being credited (to your account with your cash value from investments) is subjected to risk in the market, rise/fall with the market depending on the portfolio of your choosing, hence the word ""Variable"". You take on the risk instead of the insurance company. It can be a very good product if the owner knows how to manage it (just like any other investment products). This is a hybrid of the UL and the VUL. The interest rate depends on the performance of a market index or a set of market indices. The insurance company states a maximum interest rate (or cap) you can earn up to and a guaranteed minimum floor on your cash value interest that will be credited (typically 0% floor and 12% cap). It is purely a method to credit you interest rate. It takes the market risk out of the equation but still retains some of the growth potential of the market. Term policy is designed for temporary coverage. There is no cash value accumulation. Permanent policies such as whole life, universal life, variable universal life and indexed universal life have a cash value accumulation component that was originally designed to help pay for the cost of insurance in the later stages of the policy when the insured is at an advanced age, so it can cover the entire lifespan of the insured. People do take advantage of that cash value component and its tax advantages for retirement income supplement and maximize the premium contribution. Always remember that life insurance is a life insurance product, and not an investment vehicle. There is a cost of insurance that you are paying for. But if you have life insurance needs, you might as well take advantage of the cash value accumulation, deferred tax growth, and tax-free access that these permanent policies offer."


I remember the day I realized that P&G made both Dawn and Joy dish soap. I have always been confused why a company would produce two dish soaps to compete with itself. I assume one of them is finally on the way out.


There are some calculators that you can use to figure out the best approach, such as this one by CNN. But in general the rule of thumb tends to be the following: For the purposes of the Best Buy card, I would put it up there at number one so you don't get hit with the deferred interest. No point in giving them more money if you can pay them before the end of the cycle.  Next, I would look at what you have for emergency savings, if you have an account established and that is at a comfortable number than putting the money towards the Citi card might be good, otherwise, split part of the money between savings and the credit cards. If an emergency pops up you don't want to dig a deeper hole because you can't pay for something with cash.


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Take a look at Google Checkout but keep in mind that there is a different list of countries that they support as sellers vs. buyers. The buyer list is much more comprehensive, and I believe covers CIS (Russia, Ukraine and Belarus) while the seller list does not (yet) which means that your client will need to create a U.S. or U.K. based entity to accept payments, however they will be able to accept payments from buyers both in CIS and internationally.  Удачи.


Look up You Need A Budget...the methodology is really the key and the software is elegant and practical.  It's not about tracking spending, it's about planning what your dollars are going to do.  The application automates much of the budget planning and data entry as it remembers your input (and is totally customizable).  If you follow their basic blueprint, you can spend just minutes a week.  They offer free online classes too (love this).  I do not have skin in their game but have been a fan since it was just a spreadsheet. And yes, they have a mobile app, which means you can enter transactions on the go with just a few taps and then have your data synced across the cloud or just across your network.


Be very careful to hold on tight to your money! I agree with paying for an investment advisor, but I would say use at least two to get different viewpoints, and get credentials and references! Don't let relatives convince you to invest in their business, or help them out, or any other such nonsense. Real estate still is one of the best investments out there in my opinion. You could buy a fixer upper and rent it out?


"The Roth/Traditional decision is complex, but can be broken down into a set of simple rules.  Ideally, you want to choose to tax your money at the lowest possible rate. This specifically refers to your marginal rate, the rate you last $100 was taxed or next $100 of income with be taxed. That, in itself, is another issue, answered with questions here discussing marginal rates.  My suggestion has been that if you are in the 15% bracket, use Roth. And continue to do so until you hit 25%. At that point, begin to shift to the traditional, pre-tax 401(k) or IRA. (My article The 15% solution, goes into detail on this, although it references the 2013 tax rates. I need to re-edit). If you are already in the 25% bracket, I'd suggest just going pre-tax. Given the ability to convert, it's not as if there are 2 points in time (deposit and withdrawal) but you can decide every year if your situation changes. It's not uncommon to get married, have a baby, buy a house, and find you just dropped back down to 15% marginal rate when you were solidly 25% prior.  Let me explain why you should go 100% pretax if already at 25%.  A single person hits the top of the 15% bracket (in 2017) at $37,950 taxable. Add the standard deduction and exemption, and you are at $48,350. The tax on this is $5226, less than 10% average, despite the next $100 being taxed at 25%. It would take over $1M to have an account large enough to withdraw $40K/yr.  If you blow through that number, you hit 25%, I agree, but why pay 25% now, for sure, to avoid 'maybe' hitting 25% later? You have decades of opportunities for conversion, and even more when the funds are transferred to IRAs if you have a job change. (And the conversion discussion has multiple layers when the IRA is involved) Say you are 'too' successful. You are hitting $2M before age 55. If you retire post-55, you can withdraw from the 401(k) penalty free. But, you have 15 years before you'd start to take SS benefits. 15 years to use conversions, even if pushing into 25%, to reduce the impact of SS taxation.  My advice is not a set-and-forget solution. It's an annual evaluation of the plan for the coming year.  Further notes on my choice of ""15% Solution"" - This is the 2017 tax table for singles -  I note that median individual income is ~$30K which puts that median single at ~20K taxable. This is where the analysis begins. This earner might have upward mobility, to reach the 25% bracket and begin to save pre-tax. The goal would be to have a mix of pre/post tax money, so that over the course of their life, the 25% bracket was avoided, perhaps completely.  In general, my writing tend towards the second highest quintile, the 60-80% slice of the population. The numbers might appear arbitrary, but, in the end, the discussion has to start someplace. The concept I described here is best implemented by the single or couple who is still at 15%, but soon pushing higher than the 15/25 line. This enables them to start by saving in the Roth, and slowly shifting towards pre-tax. The final mix at retirement depends on that timing as well as their opportunities for conversions along the way.  Part of my focus on that line is that the differential is greatest in bracket shifts between 15 and 25%. Much of the benefit in the whole IRA/401 discussion is in that shift, depositing at 25%, yet withdrawing at 15%. The 28% couple might wish to avoid the 33% bracket at retirement, but that level of income impacts far fewer people, and fewer still that are either reading these boards or my other writing."


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You can save around hundred dollars per month, mostly the teens are attracted by this method. If you are a frequent shopper and want to get the recent updates about the coupons available then you can sign up with the website and they will send you the email subscriptions.


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"I'm not racist immediately followed by ""all Muslims do this"". It's not even true! Just like it's not true that all Christians follow the Bible to the T. In fact, almost NO Christians stone gays and beat their wives. What's the difference? One of those groups looks like you, and the other does not.   You're a racist. You may not have bad intent with it, but the words you're saying ABSOLUTELY ARE racist. The fact that you can't even understand how it could be taken as racist is telling.   The part I don't get is why you think 0.001% of a population represents the remaining 99.999%. If you could explain that disconnect to me, then maybe I would understand your backwards views a little more. Until then, kindly stop spouting your ignorant garbage. Thanks."


So have different rules for industries whose product cycles are 2 to 3 years.  * Computer software patents are good for a year * Computer hardware patents are good for two years * Pick some other industries that need adjustment. * Leave the rest as is. * Revisit every 5 to 10 years to assign patent lengths on a per-industry basis.


"How can anyone read that and not think ""I'm quite possibly out of a job if the boss' political choice doesn't win""?   The choices offered them are clear: IF they want to keep their job, there's no room for considering there at all."


Yeah those tablets came out with a lofty goal. They wanted to price them at the same price as an Apple product. The only problem was no one wanted one at that price.  I still to this day dont understand Microsoft and the pricing of the tablets when they first came out.   Look at google and what there doing. Low priced tablets and computers. The opposite of what Microsoft is doing. I dont begrudge Microsoft wanting  in on the tablet and app market. I still think the Pro is overpriced for what it does, its close to 1 thousand dollars.


This doesn't make much sense. What costs are you referring to? And aren't they using roads, airports etc that federal money goes into? Do you think payroll taxes paid through employees should be the major consideration on payment of taxes for corporations? Also, do you think European criticism of Amazon for avoiding paying taxes is off-base?


"Don't compare investing with a roll of the dice, compare it with blackjack and the decision to stand or hit, or put more money on the table (double down or increase bet size) , based on an assessment of the state of the table and history.  A naive strategy of say ""always hitting to 16"" isn't as awful as randomly hitting and standing (which, from time to to time will draw to 21 fair and square) , but there's a basic strategy that gets close to 50% and by increasing or decreasing bet based on counting face cards can get into positive expectations. Randomly buying and selling stock is randomly hitting.  Buying a market index fund is like always hitting to 16.  Determining an asset allocation strategy and periodically rebalancing is basic strategy.  Adjusting allocations based on business cycle and economic indicators is turning skill into advantage."


why can't I just use the same trick with my own shares to make money on the way    down? Because if you sell shares out of your own portfolio, by definition, you are not selling short at all. If you sell something you own (and deliver it) - then there is no short involved. A short is defined as a net negative position - i.e. you sell shares you do not have. Selling shares you own is selling shares you own - no short involved. You must borrow the shares for a short because in the stock market, you must DELIVER. You can not deliver shares you do not own. The stock market does not work on promises - the person who bought the shares expects ownership of them with all rights that gives them. So you borrow them to deliver them, then return them when you buy them back.


I did read a bit of current economics before commenting on the this topic. Name of the countries do not matter - from what I see I have referred to them quite clearly. Maybe I hit the truth chord somewhere there hence your off-bitter mark. It is nothing to do with economics and more politics (read ego and power play) than anything else. Of course, Truth always sucks.


You can expect about a 7% return when investing in the general market if your horizon is ten years or more. The market fluctuates, which means that you should be absolutely fine with losing 10% or more of your invested money during this period. You say yourself that: I have been setting aside money (...) into a savings account earmarked for that purpose (repairs/maintenance) so that I don't have to take out loans. It's obvious from your question that the purpose of this money is not savings, this is money that you are already investing, not in stocks or bonds but in your house. While this money sits around, of course you could put it into the market and hope that it grows. It all depends on your horizon, which in your case sounds like about 1 year. Is that long enough to be fairly sure you will make a profit? From what I've written so far, hopefully you can gather that the answer is no. If you choose to invest $6,000 but you need that money back in one year, you need to be aware of the risk that you'll instead end up with $5,400 or even less. Your options are then to: If you're asking for personal advice, my opinion would be this: you're already investing in your house. The housing market, like most markets, fluctuate. Whether you like it or not, you're already a victim (or benefactor) of this value fluctuation. The difference is that a house is something you'll live in for a long time (probably), that will give you daily joy in a way stocks and bonds won't. Of course, saving up money and investing them is always a good idea anyway. You should still save a small amount every month and put it into low/medium risk bonds, in my opinion.


"A simple way to account debt forgiveness of your receivables is to utilize a ""Bad Debt"" expense account. Take the following two examples: If you are only forgiving a portion of the principle, another popular term used is Principle Reduction as the expense account."


I feel like there is a lot of media and confirmation bias involved. I'm not necessarily disagreeing with you but it's easy to point out examples where moves to cut costs have ended badly. It's unlikely to make the news if cost cutting moves are successful. For example let's say with the Schlitz example, the new process they used was in fact successful and didn't result in a loss of quality. That wouldn't be as big in the news as screwing up would be.


"In Frank Abagnale's book ""Art of the Steal"" the author talks about how to set up a bank account for safe wire transfers. He recommends setting up an account at your regular bank and specifying that money can be transferred into that account from another bank, and out to your regular account only. You are then free to give the necessary transfer information to whomever you want, knowing full well they can't take money out. This guy should know what he's talking about since he's an ex-confidence man legitimately working as an American security consultant."


"Of course CDs are worth it compared to the stock market. In fact, most institutional investors are envious of the CDs you have access to as an individual investor that are unavailable to them. You just need to be competent enough to shop around for the best rates and understand your time horizon. There are several concepts to understand here: Banks give out CDs with competitive rates projecting future interest rates. So while the Federal funds rate is currently extremely low, banks know that in order to get any takers on their CDs they have to factor in the public expectation that rates will rise, so if you lock in a longer term CD you get a competitive rate. Institutional investors do not have access to FDIC insured CDs and the closest analog they participate in are the auctions and secondary markets of US Treasuries. These two types of assets have equivalent default (non-)risk if held to maturity: backed by the full faith and credit of the U.S. Here are the current rates (as of question's date) taken from Vanguard that I can get on CDs versus Treasuries (as an individual investor). Notice that CDs outperform Treasuries across any maturity timescale! For fixed-income and bond allocations, institutional investors are lining up for buying treasuries. And yet here you are saying ""CDs are not worth it."" Might want to rethink that. Now going into the stock market as an investor with expectations of those high returns you quote, means you're willing to stay there for the long-term (at least a decade) and stay the course during volatility to actually have any hope of coming up with the average rate of return. Even then, there's the potential downside of risk that you still lose principal after that duration. So given that assumption, it's only fair to compare against >= 10 year CDs which are currently rated at 2 percent APY. In addition, CDs can be laddered -- allowing you to lock-in newer (and potentially higher) rates as they become available. You essentially stagger your buyin into these investments, and either reinvest upon the stilted maturity dates or use as income. Also keep in mind that while personal emergencies requiring quick access to cash can happen at any time, the most common scenario is during the sudden change from a bull market into a recession -- the time when stocks plummet. If you need money right away, selling your stocks at these times would lock in severe losses, whereas with CDs you still won't lose principal with an early exit and the only penalty is usually a sacrifice of a few months of potential interest. It's easy to think of the high yields during a protracted bull market (such as now), but personal finance has a huge behavioral component to it that is largely ignored until it's too late. One risk that isn't taken care of by either CDs or Treasuries is inflation risk. All the rates here and in the original question are nominal rates, and the real return will depend on inflation (or deflation). There are other options here besides CDs, Treasuries, and the stock market to outpace inflation if you'd like to hedge that risk with inflation protection: Series I Savings Bonds and TIPS."


"Don't forget they're trying to rip that fabric of society away from everyone else. They demand their social security, but fight tooth and nail to take food stamps away from others. They had quality K-12 and nearly free higher education, but do everything they can to cut spending on education, cut teacher pay, etc. They have Medicare but want to take any kind of healthcare safety net away from everyone else. And then they blame the young for not buying enough houses and ""wrecking"" the economy."


That 2t is if you invest the money for a decade before cutting checks, which is the methodology with which I mentioned I disagree.  From the article:  > After spending a little quality time in Microsoft Excel, I’d say it’s somewhere the ballpark of $1,350 per household, or $1,000 per worker.*  If you divide $1000 per worker by ten years, you get $100 per year, which is what I said and which the title mislabeled.  Edit: I see what you mean, I typed households instead of workers. Thanks for pointing out my typo, I edited the comment to correct and show I misspoke originally. Also I put 200b instead of 2t. Either way, the point is it is $100 per year, not $1000. I should’ve paid attention when commenting, but the point remains valid


And that's exactly why I took a coding bootcamp last winter and now am coding at a major corporation. I am working hard and improving my skillset. Others are not and may get there job automated - it is not my responsibility to support them because they didn't adapt.  I never once blamed immigrants for anything - I encourage it as it increases productivity for the country. I just think our laws should be followed and it's not moral to skip the line and commit crimes.  We must use LOGIC and Freedom not PC emotion when Governing our country.


Right, so if a federal interest rate near 0 percent is not enough to stimulate the demand for those loans, then we have pretty much exhausted what we can do with monetary policy. So the only thing left is fiscal policy - raise spending or lower taxes


You're not paranoid. But rationality isn't insurance against crashes either. Rational people caused the crash. If you've got yield-hungry clients and nothing that will give them that yield, then all the exotic instruments that were dreamed up make perfect sense to you, especially given the slap-on-the-wrist enforcement (and near-total absence of clawbacks) that prevailed before and after the crisis. And if you can get all that stuff AAA-rated? Double-bonus.  Come to think of it, I wish the article had gone into what kind of ratings if any these loan bundles were getting. I'm sure someone on here will know something about it...


Here is a list of threads in other subreddits about the same content:   * [Intro to Game Theory: The Prisoner’s Dilemma](https://www.reddit.com/r/Economics/comments/78d7yo/intro_to_game_theory_the_prisoners_dilemma/) on /r/Economics with 5 karma (created at 2017-10-24 11:41:38 by /u/SpaceshipAU)  * [Intro to Game Theory: The Prisoner’s Dilemma](https://www.reddit.com/r/spaceshipau/comments/76o91y/intro_to_game_theory_the_prisoners_dilemma/) on /r/spaceshipau with 1 karma (created at 2017-10-16 12:47:40 by /u/SpaceshipAU)  ----   ^^I ^^am ^^a ^^bot  ^^[FAQ](https://www.reddit.com/r/DuplicatesBot/wiki/index)-[Code](https://github.com/PokestarFan/DuplicateBot)-[Bugs](https://www.reddit.com/r/DuplicatesBot/comments/6ypgmx/bugs_and_problems/)-[Suggestions](https://www.reddit.com/r/DuplicatesBot/comments/6ypg85/suggestion_for_duplicatesbot/)-[Block](https://www.reddit.com/r/DuplicatesBot/wiki/index#wiki_block_bot_from_tagging_on_your_posts)  ^^Now ^^you ^^can ^^remove ^^the ^^comment ^^by ^^replying ^^delete!


"What does this have to do with libertarianism?  If anything, this makes the case for libertarianism.  In the future, if nearly every job is taken by a very advanced robot, which are even capable of maintaining themselves, humans would not just be left behind.  The economy needs consumers.  Instead, we would live in a world of infinite entrepreneurship, in which the means of production are nearly free for anyone, and people prosper by their ambition and drive. Everyone would own their own robots that do work on their behalf.  The amount of resources available to all would be incredible, and people would be free to do things they actually want to do.   The contrary of course, is a socialist ""utopia""; a world of everyone being dependent on the government to provide them their basic income.  Instead, we're looking at a free world in which every person is a capitalist in control of their own robots.  *^Thanks ^to ^/u/VassiliMikailovich ^for ^this.*"


So why are people still buying 15 year old Saturns or driving the same GM Denali for the last 13 years when the new cars are so much more efficient and cheaper to run?  Poor people are fucking poor.  Now you turn to Indonesia. How much do you think they are spending to maintain their vehicles? Next to nothing, that's what. They'll only fix it enough to get it running again. SAE certified mechanic? LOL, the guy between the whore house and the cigarette vendor can also do it.  How much do you think electricity costs in the Philippines? It can cost $100 USD a month to run the AC at night to get a decent sleep...The average Filipino makes less than $10 a month.


"Hmm... Maybe I somewhat misunderstood your question then.  Yes, trade deficits/surpluses are really the core of the country-level ""investment"".  But yes, it maters what they *do* with it, which is **why** so many countries put any excesses into US treasuries.   Going back to ""personal"" finance, if they pay down higher interest debt with their trade surplus, *great*; if they have no debt and can issue local currency (in PF land, ""take out a loan"") for under 2%, *great*;  If not... **Not** so great.  ""Saving"" money that costs over 2% isn't an investment, it's nothing but a loan disguised as one."


I think the answers you're going to receive are all going to be a bit subjective. Looking at it from a high-level point of view, having this budget nailed down lets you analyze: Now you've got your budget, stick to it! This is really the most important part. You've done your homework, now make sure you don't exceed it without a good reason. If you're under budget in any given month, have a plan on what to do with the excess funds. If you go over budget on a certain area, you can react accordingly.  I, personally, recommend hiring a financial planner. Ours has been a huge help with looking further down the line than we had been originally. If you show up to your first meeting with an FP and have this budgetary breakdown ready to go, you'll probably get a high-five. Well done, you!


"Vegetarian here... That's my camp exactly. I despise the taste of meat. I don't buy ""veggie burgers"" or anything similar for that reason.   This product does not interest me at all. I'm glad it exists though. Lots of people truly love meat but also care about sustainability. This is a win for them."


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But aren't there more people in every year doing more work?  That is growth.  Yes, the economy cannot continue to grow forever given that the Earth is a finite resource.  It's not clear to me we are anywhere near that point where we run out of resources.


"Note that we do not comment on specific stocks here, and have no place doing so. If your question is only about that specific stock then it is off topic. I have not tried to answer that part below. The key to valuation is predicting the net present value of all of a company's cash flows; i.e. of their future profits and losses. Through a number of methods to long to explain here investment banks and hedge funds work out what they expect the company's cash flows to be and trade so that these future profits, losses etc. are priced into the stock price. Since future cash flows, profits or whatever you want to call them are priced in, the price of a stock shouldn't move at all on an earnings statement. This begs the question ""why do some stock prices move violently when they announce earnings?"" The models that the institutional investors use are not perfect and cannot take into account everything. An unexpected craze for a product or a supply chain agreement breaking down on not being as good as it seems will not be factored into this pricing and so the price will move based on the degree to which expectation is missed or exceeded. Since penny socks are speculative their value is based far more on the long term expected cash flows and less on the short run cash flows. This goes a long way to explaining why some of the highest market capitalisation penny stocks are those making consistent losses. This means that they can be far less susceptible to price movements after an earnings announcement even if it is well out of the consensus range. Higher (potential) future value comes with the higher risks of penny stocks which discounts current value. In the end if people's expectation of the company's performance reflects reality then the profitability is priced in and there will be no price movement. If the actuality is outside of the expected range then there will be a price movement."


If it's in your name and you don't live there, there's a number of issues. If you charge her rent, it needs to be at fair value to treat it as a rental property.  If she lives there for the next 20 years, it will (or we hope) gain value. If she passes while it's in her name you get to step up the basis, and avoid tax. If in your name , the gain would be taxable.


Both are correct depending on what you are really trying to evaluate. If you only want to understand how that particular investment you were taking money in and out of did by itself than you would ignore the cash.  You might use this if you were thinking of replacing that particular investment with another but keeping the in/out strategy. If you want to understand how the whole investment strategy worked (both the in/out motion and the choice of investment) than you would definitely want to include the cash component as that is necessary for the strategy and would be your final return if you implemented that strategy. As a side note, neither IRR or CAGR are not great ways to judge investment strategies as they have some odd timing issues and they don't take into account risk.


"I'm not defending Faber, but from an statistical point your logic is terrible.  It's a lot easier to go from 2 to 4 than it is from 200 to 400 - so any undeveloped third-world country should be growing a **lot** faster than places with existing stable economies.  And to put ""fastest growing"" into context, it's 8.5%, which isn't even as big as I was expecting considering the US is growing at 3% and has a much larger base value."


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USB is the ticker for US Bancorp. The numbers to me look like their prediction of the return for the day, I could be wrong but I think that's what it is.


"My big gripe with the ICO name and corresponding mania is that it has no similarity to an IPO.  At best an ICO is a seed stage investment in a wholly unproven technology/idea/theoretical use. A developer team gets together to write a fancy whitepaper, then build out a nifty website to display the idea they are working on.  Generally this idea has no practical immediate use.  Generally this idea is still nothing more than an idea.  At best the idea will be realized by substantially reusing the open source codebase of a different coin with slight tweaks.  The developers then go get an exchange or two involved to begin trading the tokens.  One exchange even goes so far as to begin trading IOUs for the tokens before the ICO takes place.  It's shear insanity driven by this mania to have the next bitcoin for $0.00001 each. When a real organization goes through the real, regulated, IPO process it has already had its seed funding then subsequent equity financing rounds, THEN once the company has demonstrated that it has a valuable product or service and a competent management team shares are allowed to be sold to the public.  By US law, seed stage companies are forbidden from seeking investment from unaccredited investors (this doesn't mean unaccredited investors are forbidden from investing).  An accredited investor is someone with over $200,000 per year of income or a net worth of over $1,000,000.  Seed stage organizations have an exceptionally high rate of failure, no matter the proposed business.   These ICOs are little more than developers fleecing naive ""investors"" by selling them the pipe dream of being on the ground floor of the next bitcoin.  It's really appalling.  You should stay away from them, everyone should stay away from them, and the people running them should be punished."


- Do your homework. What are others at the same company getting for the same job? At different companies? Can you slice the data by years of experience? - If you nail the interview you can leverage another offer with the HR staff post interview - Try to get the interviewer to offer the first number if that's not possible offer a range. Psychology tells us that people don't like to be outside a range so you could put your lowest offer at the bottom of the range and the top +10%


Most people I talk with don't even know the difference on a simple level between the Dow, S&P, Russell, Nasdaq, etc.  I tell my friends and family that they know more than they realize. I help them use their knowledge and what they see when they want to invest. Or if they prefer not to, just buy index funds.


"My problem with your argument is that you don't have one.   I'm sorry you cannot grasp the difference between mortgage backed securities and company stock or the difference between a short sale and buying a credit default swap. You keep spouting unrelated ""facts"" as if the mean something.  Did big banks short sale FB?  Who knows?  Did they buy FB CDOs?  No they didn't.  There is no such thing. Did they buy credit default swaps? No."


Walmart will continue strong growth, but as the analyst says in the article... Amazon has an insurmountable lead in online retail at this point.  Walmart is pulling away from other Brick & Mortars like Walgreens, CVS, Rite Aid, but are still massively behind Amazon. All they are doing right now is working to catch up and copy, but they will need to do something massively different for any real catch-up to happen.


This is an alternative solution and it will depend where you live as to how you will have to make it work.  I am in the UK and there are a number of ways that I can use to access my money from anywhere in the world without high transaction fees. Internet banking takes care of everything else.


First, it depends on your broker.  Full service firms will tear you a new one, discount brokers may charge ~nothing.  You'll have to check with your broker on assignment fees. Theoretically, this is the case of the opposite of my answer in this question: Are underlying assets supposed to be sold/bought immediately after being bought/sold in call/put option? Your trading strategy/reasoning for your covered call notwithstanding, in your case, as an option writer covering in the money calls, you want to hold and pray that your option expires worthless.  As I said in the other answer, there is always a theoretical premium of option price + exercise price to underlying prices, no matter how slight, right up until expiration, so on that basis, it doesn't pay to close out the option. However, there's a reality that I didn't mention in the other answer: if it's a deep in the money option, you can actually put a bid < stock price - exercise price - trade fee and hope for the best since the market makers rarely bid above stock price - exercise price for illiquid options, but it's unlikely that you'll beat the market makers + hft.  They're systems are too fast. I know the philly exchange allows you to put in implied volatility orders, but they're expensive, and I couldn't tell you if a broker/exchange allows for dynamic orders with the equation I specified above, but it may be worth a shot to check out; however, it's unlikely that such a low order would ever be filled since you'll at best be lined up with the market makers, and it would require a big player dumping all its' holdings at once to get to your order. If you're doing a traditional, true-blue covered call, there's absolutely nothing wrong being assigned except for the tax implications.  When your counterparty calls away your underlyings, it is a sell for tax purposes. If you're not covering with the underlying but with a more complex spread, things could get hairy for you real quick if someone were to exercise on you, but that's always a risk.  If your broker is extremely strict, they may close the rest of your spread for you at the offer.  In illiquid markets, that would be a huge percentage loss considering the wide bid/ask spreads.


"Because I could hire some of my workers on minimum wage as well and reduce both my costs and bid prices to maintain the same margins. Everyone talks about ""at scale"" and point out the costs of ketchup packets when you're selling millions upon millions of products per year, but they forget it's just as proportional for a small business. Maybe if the model doesn't work ""at scale"" without punishing our social welfare system for a corporations benefit, it shouldn't exist."


From medicaid.gov: Although pharmacy coverage is an optional benefit under federal Medicaid law, all States currently provide coverage for outpatient prescription drugs to all categorically eligible individuals and most other enrollees within their Medicaid programs. This is related to the Medicaid Drug Rebate Program, which offsets the Federal and State costs of most outpatient prescription drugs dispensed to Medicaid patients. Approximately 600 drug manufacturers currently participate in this program. All fifty States and the District of Columbia cover prescription drugs under the Medicaid Drug Rebate Program I can't give you any specific details about patient assistance programs, but rxaccess.sd.gov links to information about various patient assistance programs and general information about Medicaid's and Medicare's prescription drug offerings. It's conceivable that you may be eligible for a patient assistance program but not Medicaid (for all I know, the reverse may be true) but it's difficult to tell without contacting the specific company. Some patient assistance programs only apply to generic versions of the drug, while some state Medicaid programs will pay for brand names. Obviously this varies from state to state.


(Can't find the delete button on the Android app -- Family Loans are worth investigating but I'm not sure they're applicable to this case.)


> stock funds that Rep. Paul does own are all “short,” or make bets against, U.S. stocks. **One is a “double inverse” fund**  Unless he's actually shorting a 2x bull ETF, he's losing money (regardless of how the benchmark is doing)


It seems that your Organizers are not familiar with dealing transfers outside of Euro Zone. You are right IBAN is not used in India.  A Bank in France can initiate an International Wire. There are few Banks that offer this online, for most one has to visit the Branch. See this https://expatriates.stackexchange.com/questions/2862/international-money-transfer-online-from-a-french-bank I am not aware of any other term used in France for International Wire, try explaining; Its also called BIC. It would help if you also provide your Correspondent Bank details [This will be a Bank in Europe]. This should be available on your Indian Bank's website.


One broker told me that I have to simply read the ask size and the bid size, seeing what the market makers are offering. This implies that my order would have to match that price exactly, which is unfortunate because options contract spreads can be WIDE. Also, if my planned position size is larger than the best bid/best ask, then I should break up the order, which is also unfortunate because most brokers charge a lot for options orders.


I don't believe they're right. For international wire transfers you'd need either IBAN or SWIFT codes. I don't think any US bank participates in the IBAN network (mostly Europe and the Far East), so SWIFT is they way to go with the US. Credit unions frequently don't know what and how to do with international transactions because they don't have them that often. Some don't even have SWIFT codes of their own (many, in fact) and use intermediaries to receive money.


Doctor Randy Davis Doctor Randy Davis works for the Baltimore Washington Medical Center where he has been an orthopedic surgeon since 1983. He has served in a number of leadership positions at the Baltimore Washington Medical Center. From 2003-2015, he was the Director of Spine Surgery. He was also the President of the Medical Staff from 2012-2013.


> Word to the wise, don't take on debt to basically launch your business.   Can confirm. Was bankruptcy attorney for small business in Ch 11, and have heard recordings of some of its lenders (a family, actually) making not-so-subtle threats on the lives/safety of some of the company's principals. And the background of these guys told me they weren't bluffing.   Just because some prospective lenders appear legit and even own sizable companies, it doesn't mean they're not willing to take less-than-legal routes to collect.


Whilst I lean more toward decriminalisation rather than the war on drugs - not sure how comfortable I am with designer drugs to promote TV shows.  Even if the show is awful.  Seems like that would lead us down a road with unintended consequences.  But hey, what do I know? EDIT - Spelling


I'm a bot, *bleep*, *bloop*. Someone has linked to this thread from another place on reddit:  - [/r/unitedkingdom] [Might be of interest here - recent interview with Nick Leeson, rogue trader](https://np.reddit.com/r/unitedkingdom/comments/74eqqp/might_be_of_interest_here_recent_interview_with/)  [](#footer)*^(If you follow any of the above links, please respect the rules of reddit and don't vote in the other threads.) ^\([Info](/r/TotesMessenger) ^/ ^[Contact](/message/compose?to=/r/TotesMessenger))*  [](#bot)


"> You know there is a heading in big bold text that says ""My budding product empire"" that conveniently links to actual products that make money for said author.  It's 2/3 of the way down the page in the same colour and format as the rest of the text. It's very poorly displayed - any product or service should be prominently featured.  > I think you have a problem with the whole way the author markets herself, but I obviously it works.  That's not obvious, no. Anyone can make vague boasts about how much money they make, especially if those claims are aimed at attracting more business. The ones who brag the loudest are usually the ones with the biggest shortfall to make up.  > Also I don't feel like it's bragging, it's more like sharing the wealth.   Sharing what wealth? As I said, anyone can make hollow claims about how much money they make. It all sounds too much like those self-help books."


As for income tax purposes, dg99's answer is correct. The entire amount that is converted is post-tax (you had to pay tax on any pre-tax amounts upon conversion), so you do not pay tax on it when you withdraw it in a non-qualified distribution, similar to with contributions. However, there's another, perhaps more important, consideration here -- the early withdrawal penalty for non-qualified distributions from Roth IRA. For non-qualified distributions of contributions, there is never an early withdrawal penalty. For non-qualified distributions of rollovers and conversions, there is an early withdrawal penalty if withdrawn within 5 years of the rollover or conversion, but only on the part of the rollover or conversion that was taxable during the conversion. So if you want to withdraw within 5 years of the conversion, then it works differently from direct contributions. Because contributions and conversions have different treatment for the penalty, the ordering between them matters too. Contributions are always withdrawn before rollovers and conversions (a later contribution still comes before an earlier rollover or conversion). But within rollovers and conversions, they are ordered by year (an earlier rollover or conversion comes before a later one), and within a year, the taxable part is ordered before the non-taxable part.


"There are a couple of misconceptions I think are present here: Firstly, when people say ""interest"", usually that implies a lower-risk investment, like a government bond or a money market fund. Some interest-earning investments can be higher risk (like junk bonds offered by near-bankrupt companies), but for the most part, stocks are higher risk. With higher risk comes higher reward, but obviously also the chance for a bad year. A ""bad year"" can mean your fund actually goes down in value, because the companies you are invested in do poorly. So calling all value increases ""interest"" is not the correct way to think about things. Secondly, remember that ""Roth IRA fund"" doesn't really tell you what's ""inside"" it. You could set up your fund to include only low-risk interest earning investments, or higher risk foreign stocks. From what you've said, your fund is a ""target retirement date""-type fund. This typically means that it is a mix of stocks and bonds, weighted higher to bonds if you are older (on the theory of minimizing risk near retirement), and higher to stocks if you are younger (on the theory of accepting risk for higher average returns when you have time to overcome losses). What this means is that assuming you're young and the fund you have is typical, you probably have ~50%+ of your money invested in stocks. Stocks don't pay interest, they give you value in two ways: they pay you dividends, and the companies that they are a share of increase in value (remember that a stock is literally a small % ownership of the company). So the value increase you see as the increase due to the increase in the mutual fund's share price, is part of the total ""interest"" amount you were expecting. Finally, if you are reading about ""standard growth"" of an account using a given amount of contributions, someone somewhere is making an assumption about how much ""growth"" actually happens. Either you entered a number in the calculator (""How much do you expect growth to be per year?"") or it made an assumption by default (probably something like 7% growth per year - I haven't checked the math on your number to see what the growth rate they used was). These types of assumptions can be helpful for general retirement planning, but they are not ""rules"" that your investments are required by law to follow. If you invest in something with risk, your return may be less than expected."


Your only option might be finding a seller-financed property with a motivated seller who is willing to take the risk of loaning you money. However, be prepared to pay a hefty rate on that loan if you can even pull it off.


In short, yes. Implied volatility will capture any expected upcoming material announcements. There is also supply/demand impact bundled in which may inflate an option price, and by extension increase implied volatility. OTM and ITM options are particularly predisposed to this phenomenon -- which is of course at odds with the traditional BS model assumptions -- the result is referred to as the volatility smile. Implied volatility is quoted as an annualised measure but isn't necessarily an annual value -- it will correspond to the option time period.


"And now it is at about $3. Many times ""skeletons"" are bought and inflated for various reasons. Some are legitimate (for example a private business merging into a defunct but public corporation to avoid wasting resources on going public), some are not (mainly pump-and-dump scams that are using ""skeletons""). I don't know what was the case here (probably speculation based on the new marijuana laws in the US), but clearly the inflated price was completely unjustified since it went crashing down."


There's virtually no way for a person to completely avoid taxation at some point in their lives. Between payroll, sales, excise, and the like, you've been taxed at some point. And whether or not the individual paid is irrelevant to the ownership claim being invalid.


"Where are you getting the idea that I think there is any altruism whatsoever in what Whole Foods does? You are missing the point entirely. Let me make it perfectly clear: They are selling me **what** I, personally, want, and selling it to me in the **way** I, personally, want it.    Every single grocery store is ""consumerist."" I've been shopping at Whole Foods for (almost) 30 years, and the reason is because Whole Foods has put its research into discovering what and how to serve me, and then delivering. The experience of shopping in a Safeway, Albertson's or the like is ugly, uncomfortable, cold and smelly. They are too big and take forever to get from one item I want to another. They are filled with junk they are trying to trick me into thinking is nutritious.   What makes you think Whole Foods is in any way MORE deceptive than Walmart, Publix, Costco, etc? Because they responded to a market that wanted **quality** food that could be traced back to it's source? Why wouldn't they respond to that?   It is a myth that WF is selling only ""luxury food and drink"" items. I can go into a WF and see local produce. What is so extravagant about that?  >do you ever wonder if maybe that passion is appealed to and marketer towards by businesses  I'm *thrilled* that it is. That means I can access food that I want and enjoy, and it costs less than it would otherwise. I can buy sugar-free bacon at Whole Foods. YAY! I feel great about that. I can't get that at Safeway.    Do you think commercial food producers and other grocery outlets don't collectively FAR outspend Whole Foods to promote less nutritious food that is as inexpensive as possible to produce? That they don't sacrifice quality for profits?    Where do you live that commercial grocery chains are somehow operating from the goodness of **their** hearts? Tell yourself whatever you want -- but if you have the impression that WF has somehow fooling me, thanks for your concern, but I'm good. I LOVE that they figured out what I want to eat and how I want to shop for it."


Keep it simple, three fund portfolio...  Just because you have a lot of money doesn't mean you have to consult an advisor.  Post your situation to boggleheads forum.  And yes, don't get a mortgage if you can afford to pay in cash.


Outsourcing a call centre company is not essentially necessary for your company at this particular moment, but it’s a worth consideration in the long run if you are seriously concerned about expanding your trade efficiently on the global pitch. It is definitely one of the rare schemes where you can decrease the stress levels in the office, yet reap the rewards in terms of business expansion and brand reputation.


See the accepted answer for this question.  What effect will credit card churning for frequent flyer miles have on my credit score? This does not directly answer 'how often...' that you asked, but it states that the answerer opens 5-15 accounts per year.  So the answer to your question is, as often as you want, as long as you manage your account ages. The reason for this is that there are two factors in opening a new account that affect your credit card score.  One is average age of accounts. The other is credit inquiries.  That answerer, with FICO in high 700s, sees about a 5% swing based on new cards and closing old ones. You'll have to manage average age of accounts.  I assume this is done by keeping some older ones open to prop up the average, and by judiciously closing the churn accounts. Finally, if you choose to engage in churning, and you intend to apply for a large loan and want a good credit score, simply pause the account open/close part of the churn a couple of months ahead of time.  Your score should recover from the temporary hits of the inquiries.   The churning communities really do have how to guides which discuss the details of this.  Key phrase: credit card churning.


No. Disclaimer - As a US educated fellow, I needed to search a bit. I found an article 7 Common SMSF Pension Errors. It implied that there are minimum payments required each year as with our US retirement accounts. These minimums are unrelated to the assets within the account, just based on the total value. The way I read that, there would be a point where you'd have to sell a property or partial interest to be sure you have the cash to distribute each year. I also learned that unlike US rules, which permit a distribution of stock as part of a required minimum distribution, in Australia, the distribution must be in cash (or a deposited check, of course.)


The only way you can save taxes is by starting a limited company, not paying yourself any salary, so you pay 20% corporation taxes, you can take I think £5000 a year dividends tax free, and leave the rest in the company account, and don't touch it until you make less money.


The scale on this is horribly biasing.  1-1000 is only 1/20th of the line but 1/2 of the actual time scale.  Which means china has had the majority of world GDP for almost all of history.  But it doesnt look like that at first glance.


Every bill you write counts as income (if the bill doesn't get paid, you would count that as an expense). In cases where you don't write bills, I think the payment you receive would count as income, but you might check that on the HMRC website. So to record your income, you can basically record the payments that you receive.  Anything you pay out for your business is an expense. You keep a receipt for every expense - if you don't have a receipt, you can't count it as an expense, so keeping all the receipts is very, very important. An exception are investments, for example buying a computer that should last multiple years; there you can count a percentage of the investment as expense every year.  All income, minus all expenses, is your profit. You pay tax and National Insurance contributions according to your profit. You can do whatever you like with the profit.  Notice that I didn't mention any salary. Self employed means you have no salary, you have profits and do with them whatever you like. On the other hand, you pay taxes on these profits almost exactly as if they were income.  If you have this blog but are also employed, you'll add the profits to your normal income statement.


I'm not directly affiliated with the company (I work for one of the add-on partners) but I can wholeheartedly recommend Xero for both personal and business finances. Their basis is to make accounting simple and clean, without sacrificing any of the power behind having the figures there in the first place.


">He'll be back in a few years after growth stalls under the new ""adult supervision"" CEO.  No, he will not.  Uber is a [criminal organisation](http://www.cnbc.com/2017/04/13/uber-lyft-hell-software-track-drivers.html) and will not exist in five years.  They have and are committing wire fraud daily and they will be tied up in lawsuits forever.   The entire $60 Billion in valuation will vanish."


"There are three ways to do this. So far the answers posted have only mentioned two.  The three ways are: Selling short means that you borrow stock from your broker and sell it with the intent of buying it back later to repay the loan.  As others have noted, this has unlimited potential losses and limited potential gains.  Your profit or loss will go $1:$1 with the movement of the price of the stock. Buying a put option gives you the right to sell the stock at a later date on a price that you choose now.  You pay a premium to have this right, and if the stock moves against you, you won't exercise your option and will lose the premium.  Options move non-linearly with the price of the stock, especially when the expiration is far in the future.  They probably are not for a beginner, although they can be powerful if used properly. The third option is a synthetic short position.  You form this by simultaneously buying a put option and selling short a call option, both at the same strike price.  This has a risk profile that is very much like the selling the stock short, but you can accomplish it entirely with stock options.  Because you're both buying an selling, in theory you might even collect a small net premium when you open. You might ask why you'd do this given that you could just sell the stock short, which certainly seems simpler.  One reason is that it is not always possible to sell the stock short.  Recall that you have to borrow shares from your broker to sell short.  When many people want to short the stock, brokers will run out of shares to loan.  The stock is then said to be ""hard to borrow,"" which effectively prevents further short selling of the stock.  In this case the synthetic short is still potentially possible."


As user14469 mentions you would have to decide what type of properties you would like to invest in. Are you after negatively geared properties that may have higher long term growth potential (usually within 15 to 20km from major cities), or after positive cash-flow properties which may have a lower long term growth potential (usually located more than 20km from major cities).  With negative geared properties your rent from the property will not cover the mortgage and other costs, so you will have to supplement it through your income. The theory is that you can claim a tax deduction on your employment income from the negative gearing (benefits mainly those on higher tax brackets), and the potential long term growth of the property will make up for the negative gearing over the long term.  If you are after these type of properties Michael Yardney has some books on the subject. On the other hand, positive cash-flow properties provide enough rental income to cover the mortgage and other costs. They put cash into your pockets each week. They don't have as much growth potential as more inner city properties, but if you stick to the outer regions of major cities, instead of rural towns, you will still achieve decent long term growth. If you are after these type of properties Margaret Lomas has some books on the subject. My preference is for cash-flow positive properties, and some of the areas user14469 has mentioned. I am personally invested in the Penrith and surrounding areas.  With negatively geared properties you generally have to supplement the property with your own income and generally have to wait for the property price to increase so you build up equity in the property. This then allows you to refinance the additional equity so you can use it as deposits to buy other properties or to supplement your income. The problem is if you go through a period of low, stagnate or negative growth, you may have to wait quite a few years for your equity to increase substantially. With positively geared properties, you are getting a net income from the property every week so using none of your other income to supplement the property. You can thus afford to buy more properties sooner. And even if the properties go through a period of low, stagnate or negative growth you are still getting extra income each week. Over the long term these properties will also go up and you will have the benefit of both passive income and capital gains. I also agree with user14469 regarding doing at least 6 months of research in the area/s you are looking to buy. Visit open homes, attend auctions, talk to real estate agents and get to know the area. This kind of research will beat any information you get from websites, books and magazines. You will find that when a property comes onto the market you will know what it is worth and how much you can offer below asking price. Another thing to consider is when to buy. Most people are buying now in Australia because of the record low interest rates (below 5%). This is causing higher demand in the property markets and prices to rise steadily. Many people who buy during this period will be able to afford the property when interest rates are at 5%, but as the housing market and the economy heat up and interest rates start rising, they find it hard to afford the property when interest rate rise to 7%, 8% or higher. I personally prefer to buy when interest rates are on the rise and when they are near their highs. During this time no one wants to touch property with a six foot pole, but all the owners who bought when interest rates where much lower are finding it hard to keep making repayments so they put their properties on the market. There ends up being low demand and increased supply, causing prices to fall. It is very easy to find bargains and negotiate lower prices during this period. Because interest rates will be near or at their highs, the economy will be starting to slow down, so it will not be long before interest rates start dropping again. If you can afford to buy a property at 8% you will definitely be able to afford it at 6% or lower. Plus you would have bought at or near the lows of the price cycle, just before prices once again start increasing as interest rates drop. Read and learn as much as possible from others, but in the end make up your own mind on the type of properties and areas you prefer.


"OK, I found this filing by JCI on the SEC website: U.S. Federal Income Tax Consequences of the Distribution to U.S. Holders For U.S. federal income tax purposes, the distribution will not be eligible for treatment as a tax-free distribution by Johnson Controls with respect to its stock. Accordingly, the distribution will be treated as a taxable distribution by Johnson Controls to each Johnson Controls shareholder in an amount equal to the fair market value of the Adient ordinary shares received by such shareholder (including any fractional shares deemed received and any Adient ordinary shares withheld on account of any Irish withholding taxes), determined as of the distribution date (such amount, the ""Distribution Amount""). The Distribution Amount received by a U.S. holder will be treated as a taxable dividend to the extent of such U.S. holder's ratable share of current or accumulated earnings and profits of Johnson Controls for the taxable year of the distribution (as determined under U.S. federal income tax principles). Any portion of the Distribution Amount that is treated as a dividend will not be eligible for the dividends-received deduction allowed to corporations under the Code. My broker's 1099-B form tells me that I received a Qualified Dividend from JCI on 10/31/2016 of $512.44, which would be equivalent to $45.349 valuation of ADNT as of the spinoff date for my 11.3 shares (before the 0.3 shares were sold as cash-in-lieu) ."


"> Outside of money, the biggest thing I think we will leave to our kids is what we have learned...  I would argue even money is less important, but continue.  > ...you are acting like a totally responsible young adult according to societal norms and people who are supposed to give you advice, and you are totally fucking yourself.  Totally agree.  FYI, your example seems fitting for someone born into a middle class home and their choices are bad but not destructive.  If it were someone from a poor household then the 25 year old doesn't know about the American Heart Association, doesn't know about credit to get a card or house, invests nothing, often gets payday loans, gets a car from a used car auto-lender, drinks and watches a lot of TV, has probably been involved in a pregnancy, and plays the lottery in the hopes of a better life.    > Is that your fault?  I would say, ""no"".  Society has effectively set you up to fail.  > What if you've concluded generational wealth is simply luck...  > You may dismiss your opportunity as bullshit, and remained trapped in the standard American day to day wage/debt slavery.  You almost certainly will dismiss the opportunity.  Even if you can realize the AHA, financial advisor, or payday loan guy gave you bad advice, there are better looking opportunities.  Put away money for a rainy day?  Fuck that!  If I listen to the auto-loan guy I get a car *today*.  I'm not sure I understand where your contention was.  Are you thinking that people shouldn't be cynical  of the system and be able to recognize an opportunity to better their life?  I'm heading out for the evening.  I'll look for your replay later tonight and maybe respond.  Thanks for the thoughtful discussion."


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"There are a lot of funds that exist only to feed people's belief that existing funds are not diversified or specialized enough.  That's why you have so many options. Just choose the ones with the lowest fees. I'd suggest the following: I wouldn't mess around with funds that try and specialize in ""value"" or those target date funds. If you really don't want to think and don't mind paying slightly higher fees, just pick the target date fund that corresponds to when you will retire and put all your money there. On the traditional/Roth question, if your tax bracket will be higher when you retire than it is now (unlikely), choose Roth.  Otherwise choose traditional."


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There's nothing much you can do here, and I don't think you'll succeed in placing blame on the lawyers. In order for SSA to have the tax withheld from your benefits, you need to submit form W-4V. Here are the details on how to get it and what to do with it. This form is voluntarily submitted, i.e.: no-one will ask for it, you have to actively send it out on your own. As to repayment of the LTD benefits - since they were not taxable, there's no change in the taxable income on your behalf. What you got wasn't taxed, so what you gave back - doesn't provide any tax benefit. As to why SSA benefits are taxable and LTD benefits are not - this is because SSA is pre-tax, and LTD premiums were (in your case, apparently) post-tax. However, the LTD benefits management company doesn't care or may be even know about this, and they do everything they can to reduce their own liability to you. If you're entitled to SSA benefits, it reduces their liability, that's why they insisted on your claim with SSA. As to the SSA dragging their feet - they want to reduce their (taxpayers', essentially) liability as well. However, once they decided in your favor, you received what was rightfully yours, including back-pay. SSA benefits are taxable, in the year received. So you got a lump sum - taxable as a lump sum. Sorry, but that's the way it is. This is an example where post-tax LTD premiums don't actually pay off...


In general a stock can open at absolutely any price with no regard for the closing price or after hours price the previous day. The opening price will be determined by the best bid and offer made by people who decide to trade the next day.  Some of the those people may have put orders in on a prior day that are still on the books and matter, but there's a lot of time overnight for people to cancel orders and enter new ones, which is especially likely to happen if there was substantive news overnight. As for what you can do in your case, you have the same options that you always had:  Sell or hold.  If you're selling, you can sell after hours, in the pre-open hours, or during the trading day.  There's nothing we can say about this case that's really any different than we can say about any other stock on any other day.


You are not a landlord.  You have choices: The current situation is charity. And that's ok, so long as you acknowledge it. In the big picture, anything less than market rent is a gift that you are giving the person living in your house. A good tenant might keep the place in better shape, and deserve a lower rent, but that's a quid pro quo. In the end, landlording is a business. If you had 10-20 apartments, they would be proving an income to you and you would have a large chunk of your wealth tied up in it. You would keep the apartments in good shape both to be legal and not a slumlord, but you'd also collect market rent. $100/apt would be $1000-$2000/mo income to you and your family.  You wife is right. As always. You have a decision to make to stop the bleeding.


You cost the company money both from your time off AND from its portion of your insurance bill!  and you think you're owed a bonus?   the nerve!  have a bag of frozen peas for your jaw and get back to work!  now i need a shower after channeling your horrible old boss.


So many people are blaming the US gov't for the reasons people are taking drugs and can't get hired.  Such a ridiculous response to a COMPANY's decision to drug test.   I personally don't want to work around stoner's/meth heads/pill poppers when the job requires you to work around 30,000 pounds of steel.  That's just common sense. Nobody is forcing you to take drugs.  Stop blaming everyone else bc you got yourself addicted.


You can open the configuration panel of the Netgear router via the IP address 192.168.1.1 or via www.routerlogin.net. From this panel, you can change the password, set parental controls, set guest network, view network map and there are much more settings to configure.


I doubt that this exists, but it could theoretically. After all, a share is kind of an option to a company's future success, and so a call is already a second level on indirection. The better approach would be to 'create your own Put-Puts', by investing less money (A) in the Put you wanted to invest into, and put the smaller rest (B) in the share itself or a Call. That way, if the original Put is successful, at max (B) is lost, and if it is unsuccessful, the loss on (A) is covered by a gain on (B). Potentially, if you do the math, you can reach a mathematical equivalent situation to a Put-Put by buying the right amount and kind of Calls. However, we know already that buying a Put and a Call is a poor strategy, so that would mean a Put-Put would also be a poor strategy.


I wrote about this in another answer: You can sell the scrip dividend in the market; the capital gain from this sale may fall below the annual tax-free allowance for capital gains, in which case you don't pay any capital gains tax on that amount. For a cash dividend, however, there isn't a minimum taxable amount, so you would owe dividend tax on the entire dividend (and may therefore pay more taxes on a cash dividend). Since you haven't sold the shares in the market yet, you haven't earned any income on the shares. You don't owe taxes on the scrip until you sell the shares and earn capital gains on them. HMRC is very explicit about this, in CG33800: It is quite common for a company, particularly a quoted company, to offer its shareholders the option of receiving additional shares instead of a cash dividend. The expression `stock or scrip dividend' is used to describe shares issued in such circumstances. The basic position under tax law is that when a company makes a bonus issue of shares no distribution arises, and the bonus issue of shares is not income for tax purposes in the hands of the recipient. Obviously, if this is an issue for you, talk to a tax professional to make sure you get it right.


I think we resolved this via comments above. Many finance authors are not fans of target date funds, as they have higher fees than you'd pay constructing the mix yourself, and they can't take into account your own risk tolerance. Not every 24 year old should have the same mix.  That said - I suggest you give thought to the pre-tax / post tax (i.e. traditional vs Roth) mix. I recently wrote The 15% solution, which attempts to show how to minimize your lifetime taxes by using the split that's ideal for your situation.


Federal Funds Rate The interest rate at which a depository institution lends funds maintained at the Federal Reserve to another depository institution overnight. The federal funds rate is generally only applicable to the most creditworthy institutions when they borrow and lend overnight funds to each other. The federal funds rate is one of the most influential interest rates in the U.S. economy, since it affects monetary and financial conditions, which in turn have a bearing on key aspects of the broad economy including employment, growth and inflation. http://www.investopedia.com/terms/f/federalfundsrate.asp#ixzz3mB5kCtvT


"Even if that's the case, that means he still bet half a mil on a sure thing. It seems insane to me to be bearish while also saying ""the market only goes up because..."" No one thinks QE is going to stop in our lifetimes."


There's no way patent wars are going to end.  Companies have invested too much into their patent portfolios.  They're weapons, bought and paid for, and to end the patent wars would be to take away all this property value.    So I believe patent wars are here to stay.


"The scenario you mention regarding capital gains is pretty much the core of the issue. Here's a run-down from PolitiFact.com that explains it a bit. It's important to focus on it being the tax rate, not the tax amount (which I think you get, but I want to reinforce that for other readers).  Basically, most of Buffett's income comes from capital gains and   dividends, income from investments he makes with the money he already   has. Income earned by buying and selling stocks or from stock   dividends is generally taxed at 15 percent, the rate for long-term   capital gains and qualified dividends. Buffett also mentioned that some of the ""mega-rich"" are hedge fund   managers ""who earn billions from our daily labors but are allowed to   classify our income as 'carried interest,' thereby getting a bargain   15 percent tax rate."" We don't know the taxes paid by Buffett's secretary, who was mentioned   by Obama but not by Buffett. Buffet's secretary would have to make a   high salary, or else typical deductions (such as the child tax credit)   would offset taxes owed. Let's say the secretary is a particularly   well-compensated executive assistant, making adjusted income more than   $83,600 in income. (Yes, that sounds like a lot to us, too, but   remember: We're talking about the secretary to one of the richest   people in the world.) In that case, marginal tax rates of 28 percent   would apply. Then, there would be payroll taxes of 6.25 percent on the   first $106,800, money that goes to Social Security, and another 1.45   percent on all income, which goes to Medicare. The secretary’s overall   tax rate would be lower than 28 percent, since not all the income   would be taxed at that rate, only the income above $83,600. Buffett, meanwhile, would pay very little, if anything, in payroll   taxes. In the New York Times op-ed, Buffett said he paid 17.4 percent   in taxes. Thinking of the secretary, it gets a little complicated,   given how the tax brackets work, but basically, people who make   between $100,000 and $200,000 are paying around 20 percent in federal   taxes, including payroll and income taxes, according to an analysis   from the nonpartisan Tax Policy Center. So in this case, the secretary's rate is higher because so much of   Buffett's income comes from investments and is taxed at the lower   capital gains rate. Here's Buffet's original Op-Ed in the NYT for those of you that aren't familiar."


You don't have to retire. But the US government and other national governments have programs that allow you to set aside money when you are young to be used when you are older.  To encourage you to do this, they reduce your taxes either now or when your are older. They also allow your employer to match your funds. In the US they have IRAs, 401Ks, and Social Security.  You are not required to stop working while tapping into these funds. Having a job and using these funds will impact your taxes, but your are not forbidden from doing both. Decades ago most retirement funds come from pensions and Social Security. Most people are going to reach their senior years without a pension, or with only a very small pension because they had one in one of their early jobs. So go ahead, gamble that you will not need to save for retirement. Then hope that decades later you were right about it, because you can't go back in time and fix your choice.  Some never save for retirement, either because they can't or they think they can't. Many that don't save end up working longer than they imagined. Some work everyday until they die, or are physically unable to work. Sometimes it is because they love the job, but often it is because they cannot afford to quit.


"> A severe outbreak of inflation would be great for debtors and homeowners - a large percentage of the population.   Not necessarily.  You presume that wages would rise along with prices.  In fact prices have been rising, but wages haven't followed suit.  >It would also be great for equity owners.  Do you understand the definition of ""bubble""?"


I really don't see myself doing this in the future. Sounds like youve answered your own question without reddits help. If you genuinely cant stand the job, then quit and go intern for a food service position or some other position in the retail world, the areas you actually have interest in. When it comes down to it, you shouldn't feel like stabbing yourself at work.


Apart from what others have contributed.  Look at all your usual spendings. Can they be cheaper? (Telephone, Electricity, Gas, Car, Mortgage, Loans, Insurance...) Whenever you are tempted to buy anything, ask yourself: Do I need this? If the answer is 'Yes' go ahead and buy (food, basically). Otherwise, restrain yourself. Most things in life can be bought cheaper. Most things in shops are useless. For example, how many pairs of shoes do you need? You can drink water from the tab. You don't have to go to restaurants or bars, and if you do, you could budget yourself to some amount. If the restaurant is more expensive, walk. My 0,02€


China was the only place that I've traveled to where they had built in privacy screens as you're going through security. One person at a time through the metal detector and once you pass through the metal detector you're in an area that has complete privacy. Nobody before or after the line can see you. In a way it's good if implemented in the USA but sometimes it makes me wonder how that can be abused.


Thats cool, If you take all the income my mother received raising two children to 22, Subtract a third for rent, and assume she never ate anything or wore clothes in that 22 years, she did it for about $140,000 per child


I think that one-sided is nicer for a more professional occupation or aim. If you do decide to go two-sided, I would make sure that the back is something minimalist. As one other commenter said, it is nice to have space to write extra info on a card.   Plus, it is nice to be able to tell which side is the front as soon as possible.


Just because your slice of pie gets bigger doesn't necessarily mean someone else's becomes smaller. In a lot of cases it's the entire pie that gets bigger. Why is the pie bigger? More investors (savers turn investors; foreign investments, etc.), more money printed (QE anyone?), Market sentiment changes (stock is priced by perceptions) And it can certainly get smaller.


"> She didn't know that having sex can lead to kids? I mean, you'd think she might have at least pieced it together after the first one.  I don't think you realize how ignorant people can be. Nor how uneducated as to what options they have or more importantly who will pay for those options since they are probably just as broke as they were before the kid.  > At what point do people's bad decisions stop being society's burden to bear?  This isn't that point.  > If I decide to take on insurmountable debt because I don't know any better, should everyone else be forced to pick up the tab?  Not really a fair comparison, but no I don't think we should let you starve. Idiot or otherwise.  > A $15/hr minimum wage would ruin our economy and cause a lot more suffering and homelessness.  Prove it, name an example country that is now a devastated wasteland for providing decent wages alone.  > Just because we want to help people (and I do feel bad for her), if we put policies in place that will ruin everyone, we don't get off the hook just by blaming it on other factors or because ""we didn't see it coming"".  What policies would those be? I'm waiting for that ruined country.  > In a way, making bad policy decisions that will fuck up our entire country is kind of a large scale version of what Fran and many others have done to their own life.  Real world example or I am going to continue to assume you live in a alt-right fantasy."


You're thinking of general purpose computers. A Mac or Windows box runs millions of applications from millions of sources. That's usually why those computers crash. There are also thousands and thousands of hardware configurations, which compounds the problem.   Tesla has one hardware set and they make their own software. One configuration and one application suite that's dedicated to a very narrow set of instructions with redundant systems and failsafes to stop the car if there were to be a catastrophic failure.  As long as the system is well built and capable, it will have a long track history of safe transportation. Eventually, will something happen to the car to make it fail and kill someone? Maybe, but in the meantime, it's going to save so many lives. You can't dismiss a technology just because it might not have a 100% success rate. If that's your metric, then people would never be allowed to drive.


"> Go ahead, we'll be waiting.  Stop being a cocky moron. I already have and bitch slapped someone else with them. Now its your turn to feel like a moron   ""The findings suggest why ‘stoners’ are stereotypically viewed as lacking motivation to work hard to pursue their dreams or to be ambitious.""  https://www.psychologytoday.com/blog/the-athletes-way/201307/does-long-term-cannabis-use-stifle-motivation   Cannabis reduces short-term motivation to work for money Smoking the equivalent of a single 'spliff' of cannabis makes people less willing to work for money while 'high'  https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2016/09/160901211303.htm   Cannabis smokers end up in worse jobs and have less money than average, study finds  http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/world-news/cannabis-smokers-end-up-worse-7608737   Getting high on cannabis makes you less likely to work hard for money, study says  https://www.independent.co.uk/news/science/cannabis-marijuana-weed-effects-getting-high-working-hard-money-motivation-a7220441.html   Regular pot users wind up earning less money, new study says  http://www.sacbee.com/news/state/california/california-weed/article69339292.html  Study: Poorer marijuana users smoking the most (Yeah, they ended up losers)  http://www.denverpost.com/2016/08/14/study-poorer-marijuana-users-smoking-the-most/ permalinksavecontextfull comments (182)editdisable inbox repliesdelete"


You're moving goalposts. Of course my backhand calculation is not scientifically accurate. But the point is it's still way more than de minimis like you implied. Buses off the road are still off the road. Cars off the rod are still off the road. Whatever fraction of 400k you feel for whatever weird reason is still a fuckton less traffic clogging the roads. You just seem to have a hate boner.


In other words, the cost of three people at $12 an hour is less than one person at $20 an hour.   So we'll spin this into a feel good story and post it up on Reddit.   This is further supported by the fact that when I go into a Costco it's nearly impossible to find anyone to help me, and when I do, they are just about useless.   But overall, I don't care. All that really matters is how much money I'm saving under the business model of buying in bulk. So...I'm a major Costco fan.


"To be completely honest, I think that a target of 10-15% is very high and if there were an easy way to attain it, everyone would do it. If you want to have such a high return, you'll always have the risk of losing the same amount of money. Option 1 I personally think that you can make the highest return if you invest in real estate, and actively manage your property(s). If you do this well with short term rental and/or Airbnb I think you can make healthy returns BUT it will cost a lot of time and effort which may diminish its appeal. Think about talking to your estate agent to find renters, or always ensuring your AirBnB place is in good nick so you get a high rating and keep getting good customers. If you're looking for ""passive"" income, I don't think this is a good choice. Also make sure you take note of karancan's point of costs. No matter what you plan for, your costs will always be higher than you think. Think about water damage, a tenant that breaks things/doesn't take care of stuff etc. Option 2 I think taking a loan is unnecessarily risky if you're in good financial shape (as it seems), unless you're gonna buy a house with a mortgage and live in it. Option 3 I think your best option is to buy bonds and shares. You can follow karancan's 100 minus your age rule, which seems very reasonable (personally I invest all my money in shares because that's how my father brought me up, but it's really a matter of taste. Both can be risky though bonds are usually safer). I think I should note that you cannot expect a return of 10% or more because, as everyone always says, if there were a way to guarantee it, everyone would do it. You say you don't have any idea how this works so I'd go to my bank and ask them. You probably have access to private banking so that should mean someone will be able to sit you down and talk you through. Also look at other banks that have better rates and/or pretend you're leaving your bank to negotiate a better deal. If I were you I'd invest in blue chips (big international companies listed on the main indeces (DAX, FTSE 100, Dow Jones)), or (passively managed) mutual funds/ETFs that track these indeces. Just remember to diversify by country and industry a bit. Note: i would not buy the vehicles/plans that my bank (no matter what they promise, and they promise a lot) suggest because if you do that then the bank always takes a cut off your money. TlDr, dont expect to make 10-15% on a passive investment and do what a lot of others do: shares and bonds. Also make sure you get a lot of peoples opinions :)"


>A lot of unsuccessful entrepreneurs fit that definition.  Ah, I see what you're saying. You're saying that sure, Michael Phelps is a fast swimmer, but his competition are *all* fast swimmers. It's only luck that got him a gold medal. Or yeah - the winner of the New York Marathon is a fast runner, but they're *all* fast runners - it's only luck that got the winner first place.   Certainly the current world record holder for the deadlift is strong, but all world caliber deadlifters are strong. It's only luck that got them the world record.


Yes.  When the currency of a country appreciates, it benefits some groups and disadvantages others.  In particular, exporters suffer when a currency increases in value relative to other countries.  In a country like the US, where exporters are small relative to the economy, this isn't a big deal.  In germany, where exporters make up a big part of the economy, a currency increasing in value leads to large numbers of layoffs and other negative net effects to the economy.


Hello Reddit friends, family & future guests of The Greenhouse Inn, Asbury Park's (NJ) first eco-friendly bed and breakfast.  I have wonderful news from the Small Business Administration (SBA) and the local community bank, as they have agreed to finance 90% of the startup costs to open The Greenhouse Inn. Woo hoo! They have affirmed their support, and are ready to get the ball rolling, but I will need to supply 10% of the projects total cost in equity.  For instance, a bank will usually lend only if you have 10% of the amount you require. Therefore, if we have $1,000, getting a bank loan of up to $10,000 should be feasible. This is oversimplified, but in a way, it means that every single dollar contributed gives The Greenhouse access to ten more. If we make $20,000 dollars on RocketHub, we might be able to get a loan of $200,000 dollars!


"But that wouldn't happen - TiVo's service is ""enable consumers to skip the things that cable companies make money from."" That business model is DOA.   You can play all kinds of ""if Tivo had done [x]"" games, but unless you figure out a legal way to provide content (created by networks to be sold to cable providers) around the cable providers, then rest assured that they are going to drill you into the ground because they fear change."


You must file as married for 2013 if you were married as of December 31, 2013. It is true that the Roth IRA contribution phaseout for Married Filing Separately is 0 - $10K. But you can still do backdoor Roth IRA contribution (contribute to a Traditional IRA, then convert it to a Roth IRA; assuming you do not have any pre-tax IRAs, this is identical to a Roth IRA contribution). But you already made a Roth IRA contribution for 2013, and did not do the backdoor. Let's assume that you want to turn it into a backdoor Roth IRA contribution, and that you don't have any pre-tax IRAs. There are two ways to do this: Withdraw the Roth IRA you contributed (including earnings). Then, do a normal backdoor Roth IRA contribution (contribute to a Traditional IRA, then immediately convert it to Roth IRA). The earnings you had in the Roth IRA that you withdrew will be treated as normal income and taxed. The conversion will not be taxable because all of the Traditional IRA was non-deductible when you converted. Re-characterize your original Roth IRA contribution as a Traditional IRA contribution, then convert it to Roth IRA. It will be treated as if you made a Traditional IRA contribution originally, and then waited until now to convert. The earnings in the IRA up till now will be taxed on conversion. So in both cases, you will need to pay income tax on the earnings in the account up to now. The difference between the two is in the amount of money in the IRA now. With the first way, you can only contribute $5500 now. With the second way, you will keep the same amount of money you have in the IRA now.


Being a successful CFP is 100% about convincing other people to give you their money. Managing 90% of people's finances is sticking to the foundationals and keeping them in the market long term. OP doesn't want to be a hedge fund or PE guy doing complex transactions, he wants CFP. He needs to be able to sell himself, because it's what he'll be doing his whole career.


"I took the quiz that you linked too and answered with what I considered ""ideal"" answers with the exception of checking C for that particular question.... The first thing I saw was I needn't have bothered with giving the ideal answer as the result is self graded (paraphrased) as...all ""A"" great, mostly ""A"" good,  mostly ""B"" you can do better, any ""C"" you probably have problems...regardless of your actual answers. Secondly my ideal answers didn't agree with theirs. Finally, neither my ideal nor theirs takes actual circumstances into account.  For instance paying off your debt each month: there are quite a few cards that offer zero percent financing for extended periods of time, for those cards the ideal would be for the debt to be paid off before the terms change.  Whether that should be steady progression towards zero or a ballon payment at the end, would depend upon your circumstances. In short, look at this quiz as a rough guideline, not a nuanced evaluation of your credit handling capabilities."


I believe you can easily make tresholds for what constitute a partial owner. If I work for GE and buy a share, I'm not exactly a partial owner.  Anything under 10% for companies making, I don't know, less than 50 Mil in revenue, you're an employee. Larger companies, 5%.  That's just an idea, could be refined but, yeah...


The Koller et al. book? Well, I find that it provides a better structure and an easier read if you are new to valuation. However, Damodaran contains discussions of some important issues not discussed in the Koller et al. book and it that sense serves as a great supplement in my opinion.


Three big ones that are common in almost all banks (though, individually, they may have other criteria): Other criteria I've seen (while working in the banking industry - varying by bank): the average balance you keep on deposit accounts (checking/savings/CDs/etc), number of overdraft fees in the past 12 months (one bank I worked for wouldn't approve a credit card if a customer had more than 5 overdrafts in the past year), the length of time a customer had been with the bank. Note that a credit card only company, like AmEx, may have different criteria in that they don't offer all the other type of accounts that other other banks do.