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At Home in the World


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Skip Austin. Visit Houston Instead

Don't get us wrong: Traveler enjoys a long weekend in Austin as much as the next guy. But if Austin is the hipster-cool college party of Texas, Houston is the adult dinner party where we prefer to be wined and dined. Is Houston the new "it" city?, we asked in September. We make the case with this local's guide to where to eat, stay, shop, and play.

EAT: Coltivare

Coltivare stands out from the crowd with its modern Italian menu of pizzas, pastas, and salads for one big reason (and it's not the line that forms out front every evening for dinner): the on-site garden, from which chef Ryan Pera harvests everything from the restaurant's herbs to its produce. Keeping it local is key here: Even the pork is provided by co-owner Morgan Weber's ranch, Revival Meats. (3320 White Oak Dr., 713-637-4095, coltivarehouston.com)

EAT: Pondicheri
The fast casual Gulf Coast Indian bistro from noted chef Anita Jaisinghani has been packed since the day it opened in 2011 and is set to expand soon, adding on a second story bake lab devoted to Jaisinghani's craveable cookies and pastries. At breakfast, we recommend the breakfast thali—a sort of sampler plate—and seafood fans shouldn't miss the Texas shrimp chaat at night. (2800 Kirby Dr., Ste. B132, 713-522-2022, pondichericafe.com).

DRINK: Saint Arnold and No Label

There's never been a better time to be a craft beer lover in Houston—especially since the growing number of local breweries all offer tours. Our two favorites are the casual, picnic-style tours at No Label Brewing Co. in Katy—which is housed in a converted rice production facility—and the massive beer hall at Saint Arnold, which just celebrated its 20th anniversary. (No Label Brewing Co., 5351 1st St., Katy, 281-693-7545, nolabelbrew.com; Saint Arnold Brewing Co., 2000 Lyons Ave., 713-686-9494, saintarnold.com)

PLAY: Buffalo Bayou Park

Thanks to a $45 million renovation (with more still to come), the hike and bike trails in the 160-acre Buffalo Bayou Park just outside downtown have never been more inviting. In addition to new pathways, public art, landscaping, and lighting—meaning you can play here day and night—there are even new spots to launch canoes and kayaks into the bayou and paddle into a gorgeous Houston sunset. (buffalobayoupark.org)

STAY: Hotel Icon

Recently renovated rooms at the stately, historic Hotel Icon downtown provide some of the most dramatic views of the city, as well as a jumping-off point for experiencing the vibrant Market Square area right outside its doors, providing easy access to some of Houston's best bars and restaurants as well as the renowned Theater District a few blocks away. (220 Main St., 713-224-4266, hotelicon.com)

STAY: Hotel Zaza

The glamorous Hotel Zaza provides appropriately artistic accommodations for its location in the heart of Houston's vibrant Museum District, as well as easy access to the light rail for downtown destinations; though you may find it hard to tear yourself away from the pool—a social hotspot on weekends—and its chic cabanas. (5701 Main St., 713-526-1991, hotelzaza.com)

SHOP: Kuhl-Linscomb

What was once an award-winning design firm has now become the singular destination in Houston for everything from high-end, one-of-a-kind home furnishings to eccentric gift selections, all spread across 70,000 square feet of showrooms in five buildings in the Upper Kirby district. It's the swankiest swap meet you'll ever see. (2424 W. Alabama St., 713-526-6000, kuhl-linscomb.com)

SHOP: Space Montrose

Amid the thrift stores, artsy boutiques, and antique shops of Montrose is a one-stop shop for local goods, whether wearable (shirts, jewelry, purses, baby clothes) or frameable (posters, photographs, prints). Space Montrose devotes its carefully curated space to Texas artists—many of whom live in Houston, and many of whom make objects you won't find anywhere else. (1706 Westheimer Rd., 832-649-5743, spacemontrose.com)
