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Published 4:00 am, Sunday, August 4, 2002


At Playas del Coco, on Costa Rica's Pacific Coast, we stayed at Hotel Vista Mar, an awesome hotel. Some years ago, a wealthy Costa Rican doctor moved to Playas del Coco and treated the townspeople for free. In return, the people gave him the lumber to build his house. Hand-hewn wooden posts rise from flagstone flooring to support the orange tile roof. Its palm-sprinkled courtyard, with a swimming pool, gives it the authenticity of an old-style hacienda.

In fact, it has only been a hotel for about seven years. The hacienda feeling is reinforced by the old-time hospitality of the proprietor, Nancy Florer.



Each morning, along with delicious coffee, we were served a sumptuous, fruit-laden breakfast. Nancy has taken on two injured green parrots and nursed them back to health. Also, there are two scarlet macaws and two large parakeets. A large iguana hangs out on the roof, at ease with the jungle a tail's flip away. Howler monkeys live nearby.

The Hotel Vista Mar is quiet, elegant and very clean. Doubles with air conditioning run $55 in high season, $45 in low season. For rooms without air conditioning, subtract $10.

Contact Nancy Florer at (506) 670-0753; e-mail, email@example.com; Web, www.beach-hotels-in-costa-rica.com





One of Europe's great secrets is the German Sudliche Weinstrasse (southern wine road). In the fall, when the grape harvests are in, Europeans converge on the Pfalz region to walk along the roads between picturesque small villages. If you think of German wines as sweet whites, you are in for a great surprise. There are excellent dry (trocken) white wines, a variety of red wines, also sparkling wines and even regional vinegars. Most of the towns and villages have local festivals during Neue Wein season and special foods are prepared.

My daughters and I stayed at Gutshof Ziegelhuette. Our accommodations were roomy and comfortable -- a castle-like suite with large bedroom and kitchenette and a large upstairs room, as well. Rates vary with the season and length of stay, but even in the fall, a single room is about $45 to $50 a night and a double $65. The room rate includes breakfast -- not the usual roll and coffee, but a bountiful buffet.

Only a few steps from the rooms, in a converted brick kiln, the owners, the Langhausers, have a fine restaurant, which offers excellent continental cuisine as well as regional specialties.

Contact: Gutshof Ziegelhuette, Luitpoldstrasse 79, D 67480 Edenkoben, Germany; phone, 011-49-63-23-94-980; e-mail, firstname.lastname@example.org; Web, www.Gutshof-Ziegelhuette.de. Information on the area is available from www.garten-eden-pfalz.de or by e-mail from tourist email@example.com





My husband and I have discovered a delightful place for renewing our energies and spirits in west Marin County -- Berry Patch Cottage in Point Reyes.

The cottage is nestled among fruit trees, a couple of redwoods and its own green plot of native grasses and flowers. Its airy rooms are decorated with a light hand and obvious love for nature's colors and the privacy of home. Simple antiques and natural bouquets, mixed with solid contemporary furniture, provide beauty and comfort.

The bedroom features a queen-sized bed and a potbellied wood-burning stove. The living room has a queen-sized sofa bed and an adjacent nook that houses an old-films library and an eclectic selection of games and books for all ages. The fully equipped kitchen with oak table and chairs can easily accommodate the needs of a family.

Jeni Jacobson, the owner, is a friendly, discreet host, who is well versed in local lore and resources. She is an experienced bird-watcher and jam-maker. You can expect to take some of that delicious jam home with you when you go.

It's a lovely 1-mile walk to downtown Point Reyes Station, with its sprinkling of restaurants, galleries and interesting shops.

Well-behaved pets and children are welcome. The rates are $150 for one or two on weekends and holidays, and $100 on weeknights. Each extra person is $20 per night.

Contact: Berry Patch Cottage, P.O. Box 712, Point Reyes Station CA 94956; phone, (888) 663-1942; Web, www.coastalgetaways.com/berrypatch/berry.html; e- mail, firstname.lastname@example.org




