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Using Twill Tape

This is just a little trick that I picked up, and that I love to use when I'm sewing knits and other fabrics that have some stretch to them. First it stabalizes those knits at the shoulders so you don't get that wavy wonky seam and second it gives you work a professional finish.

So the first thing you need to do is get your twill tape out. I just happened to have some pink to match my fabric. Put your front and back piece together at the shoulder with the right sides facing eachother (RST) and make sure you're stitching the twill tape close enough to the edge, like in this photo. Remember that shoulder seams need to be pressed towards the back so your layers should be as follows: twill tape, front piece, and back piece (always making sure your pieces are RST) I cut off any extra length of twill tape, and finish off with the serger, you could also finish off your seam with a zigzag stitch Press your seam open and your seam allowance towards the back. Try it, and I think you'll agree that it doesn't take up time but it will make a difference on the end result, espcially with those extremely stretchy knits.

By the way, I can't wait to show you what I've made with this pink plaid fleece!
Posted by Deborah Zaleski at 1:14 PM 1 comment: Labels: knit fabrics, twill tape


Lily Knit Blazer by Peek-a-Boo Patterns

Amy form Peek-a-Boo patterns has done it again! She has designed the  Lily knit blazer (affiliate link) . And guess what, for the next 2 days there is a special discount, use the code lily20 at checkout. I had the opportunity to get my hands on it before it was released to test it out and make some modifications to the sizing of it for my niece. As you have seen here, my niece is tall and slim so to get a perfect fit for her I needed to modify the pattern before cutting the fabric and sewing it up. This is a little of what I did.

The first thing you must do when choosing the size you need to cut out is measure your fit model. I've already established that I need as far as height goes a size 8 and width I need to be making a size 5. I start with the first pattern piece, the side back, by tracing on traceable interfacng as shown by the dotted line. I like using the interfacing because it sticks to fabric so I don't use as many pins or no pins at all depending on the fabric, and it stores easily after I'm done. I then move my interfacing over to get the width of the size 5 as shown by the solid line, and trace. With one piece down and 5 more to go...I think you can all get the idea.

When all my peices have been traced and fabric that I'm not in love with cut out I then make a sample of the garment to make sure everything lines up.

Some things that you will need to remember when considering size for this blazer: Does the child that you're making it for need the pit of the arm to go up as for a size 5 or 8 or somewhere in between (those are adjustments that can be made after your first sample garment), don't forget to adjust your sleeve according to the arm hole opening. You also need to consider the collar, what size is the neck opening, the collar needs to fit the neck line you cut out.

If you do have any questions on any of the alterations that I've made, please feel free to leave me a comment or email at sproutingjubejube (at) hotmail.com, I'll be more than happy to help you out!

Here's the first look at the finished Lily Blazer. I made mine with fleece, but I could have gone with a medium weight knit, french terry or jogging fleece. Now for the true test...to put in on my model! Look at all the beautifull detail that Amy has put into her design, princess seams with piping, appliqué pockets with rounded bottom edges, cuffs at the sleeves. The accent piece at the back with a flattering ruffle are just more details to the design. Thanks to Tanya from Tanya Zaleski Photocreations for lending me her daughter as a fit model and also for taking such amazing pictures!

Posted by Deborah Zaleski at 9:02 AM 2 comments: Labels: blazer, children's clothing, fleece, PDF pattern


 


Posted by Deborah Zaleski at 7:09 AM No comments: 



For those who wonder what my work space looks like I thought I might give you a peek into my 8 X 10 work shop (that most of the time spills into the kitchen, but never when I'm cooking). This is part of my stash, this is mainly the flannel and cotton fabrics I use daily. The other stuff is in 5 bins in the basement (sshhhhhhhhhh, don't tell). The view as I sew. I have a huge maple tree with a family of squirels living in it, the view keeps me motivated when I have an order with multiple units. The view from the door. I try to keep things clean but I must admit that we don't always see the floor. I usually have my ironing board set up in front of the window.

This is my cozy space, and I love it!

Posted by Deborah Zaleski at 7:45 AM 2 comments: Labels: work space
