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What's a Cacomistle?

On the other side of Volcán Barú is the tiny town of Guadalupe, Panama, our next destination.  Although a mere 15 km away as the crow flies, it takes 2 hours to get there as you have to drive around the mountain.  The draw to this agricultural area was Los Quetzales Ecolodge and Spa.  We weren't interested in taking yoga classes or having a massage but wanted to stay in Cabin 8.  We had read on http://www.mammalwatching.com that to see a Cacomistle you must stay in Cabin 8.  We arrived at reception around 10:30 AM and were advised to have plenty of food with us as the drive up to Cabin 8 wasn't something you wanted to do more than once.  We had our trusty Toyota Hilux so how difficult could it be?  It started off on a paved road but soon turned to a bumpy dirt road.  Past a few village houses, the road became real bad, steep with wet, slippery rocks.  Marc put the truck in 4-wheel drive and we inched our way forward.  You didn't want to go too fast and bottom out but you needed enough momentum to get up the steep inclines.  The worst were the big holes.  Marc tried to go around the holes but the road wasn't wide enough and we'd slide in and had to crawl out.  I took a video of the drive when I didn't have my eyes covered.

Driving up to Cabin 8

We made it to the end of the road and saw a sign for Cabin 8 but there was no building to be found.  We followed a path by foot up into the cloud forest and finally found our abode!

We settled in and later in the afternoon did a bit of exploring.  We were back in time to prepare for our anticipated evening guests.  We cut up some bananas and papaya to put on the railings of the upper level balcony to entice our nocturnal visitors.  It was now dusk and no one was arriving.  Maybe they didn't come every night but suddenly Marc spotted an animal on the railing.  It was a Cacomistle!

I had never heard of these mammals before and with good reason.  Being nocturnal and inhabiting deep cloud forest they are rarely seen.  But here at Cabin 8 they have become habituated and visit the cabin nightly for a free meal.  Normally I wouldn't condone feeding wild animals but I convinced myself that it was no worse than feeding birds and we were giving them only fruit, no processed foods.

The Cacomistle is a member of the Procyonidae family which includes raccoons and coatis.  They are also closely related to and often confused with the Ringtail found in the southern US and Mexico.  They are normally solitary and have large home ranges typically being seen in the middle and upper canopy of tropical mountain forests.  We were seeing at least two individuals and they visited the cabin throughout the night as I could hear them jumping on the roof and running along the railings.  It's always a thrill to see a new mammal!

We were up early the following morning to meet a local bird guide at 6:30 AM at reception.  This meant we had to negotiate the treacherous road again.  It was much easier going down and we arrived at the meeting point with time to spare.  Charlie, our bird guide, showed up and we drove to the Los Quetzales Trail.  We had explored the other end of this trail when we were in Boquete.  Not long after starting our walk Charlie heard a Resplendent Quetzal and spotted a male in a nearby tree.

Two other males showed up chasing a female!  This is the start of the breeding season and the males are actively seeking and competing for mates.  We continued up the trail spotting many birds such as:

We hiked about 3 km in to a ranger station where a surprise waited for us. A stunning Volcano Hummingbird was perched on a flowering bush alongside the trail.  These very tiny "hummers" are endemic to the mountains of Costa Rica and western Panama. They breed at elevations of 6000 feet and higher. We saw this magnificent male at around 8400 feet.

We returned to the lodge where we had lunch before making the arduous climb back up to Cabin 8.  When we arrived it was drizzling.  Surprisingly a male Resplendent Quetzal flew in and perched in a tree in front of our cabin!

The Cacomistles showed up again around 7:00 and we stayed up until 9:30 watching them.  The following morning we hiked Las Minas Trail to a waterfall.  While sitting on a bench admiring the view, a beautiful Fiery-throated Hummingbird perched nearby.  When the sun hit his throat feathers just right they came ablaze in a magnificent display.

We returned to our cabin enjoying the warm sunshine and the birds visiting the feeder when the Red-tailed squirrels weren't monopolizing it.  My favorite are the Yellow-thighed Finches which also endemic to the highlands of Costa Rica and western Panama.  Why would a bird evolve to have bright yellow pantaloons?

Tonight was our third and final night at Cabin 8.  Although I so enjoyed watching the Cacomistles, I still wanted to see a Kinkajou.  The Cacomistles arrived at the usual time and unlike the first two nights it wasn't raining so we got to see them with dry coats.

Around 9:30 PM I was getting ready to brush my teeth and Marc said we have a new visitor.  It was a Kinkajou!  He plowed through the food not concerned that we were within 6 feet of him taking flash photos.

He had his fill, leaped onto a tree and disappeared.  After I had gone to bed I heard an animal on the balcony so I got up to see who it was.  It was the Kinkajou again.  Yippee, we got to see him twice!

The following morning it was time to pack up and leave magical Cabin 8.  What a special privilege to get such close views of two rarely seen nocturnal rainforest mammals!  We drove the infamous road our fourth and final time.  By now Marc had mastered how to avoid the holes and how to plow through the streams and gun it up the other side without getting stuck.  Our next destination was Mount Totumas Cloud Forest Ecolodge about a 2-hour drive away.  A 4-wheel drive is required for the last 9 km to the lodge but by now Marc was an expert at negotiating these steep, rocky roads.  The mountain views from this highest Ecolodge in Panama were glorious with unbroken cloud forest in all directions.

We arrived just in time for lunch and had the afternoon to explore the Big Tree Loop.  A troop of Mantled Howler monkeys were scrambling in the trees overhead.  As we looked up to view and photograph one big male, he decided to pee on us.  Luckily we were able to avoid the shower.

The following morning we hiked La Amistad Trail from Mount Totumas Cloud Forest Reserve to the adjoining La Amistad International Park which spans both Panama and Costa Rica.  It was cloudy and misty as we left the lodge so we didn't see many birds but ran into a few White-faced Capuchin monkeys.  The trail led to an old abandoned jeep now covered with moss and other vegetation.  Apparently a homesteader from long ago used this car as a temporary lodging.

We returned to the lodge and by late afternoon the weather had improved so we set off to explore the Cascades Trail.  The route climbed steeply down past newly planted coffee trees to a river and a beautiful waterfall tumbling over rocks.

We climbed back up to the lodge and were hoping to see the penumbral lunar eclipse but it remained too cloudy.  A brief interval of sun along with the rain did create a rainbow spanning the valley.

The wind picked up and blew hard all night and into the next day.  In order to see birds we had to explore some of the lower trails sheltered from the wind.  We managed to see some good birds such as the Tyrant Tyrannulet and American Dipper.

On our last full day in the Reserve we opted to climb Mount Totumas.   We started off on the Big Tree Loop but veered off onto an unmarked trail into the forest.  Reinaldo, our local guide, said this was his first trip up the mountain this year.  The trail went up steeply and we encountered our first fallen tree.  They are quite a chore to get around or over.  There were about 3 of these fallen trees on the lower section of the trail and the going was steep and slippery.   Reinaldo spotted a Woodpecker that was new to him but very familiar to us.  It was a Yellow-bellied Sapsucker.

We stopped for a break and Reinaldo said there was an animal high up in a tree.  Sure enough, a banded Cacomistle tail was hanging out from a clump of bromeliads.  We couldn't see the body but the tail was proof enough.

The grade leveled out a bit then we hit the bamboo section.  Reinaldo had to hack his way through with his machete.

It took us a grueling 4 hours to climb about 2100 feet to the top.  There was no view on the treed summit but the forest was primeval with tall trees draped in red-hued moss.

We stopped on a log to eat our packed lunches and then headed back down.  It was much easier now that the trail had been cleared.  The Cacomistle was still sleeping in the same spot.  We hit the steep section and had to be very careful not to slip or twist an ankle.  Reinaldo caught a tiny brown lizard for us to see and placed it on a tree trunk.  It didn't look like anything special but we took photos.

Later I sent the photo to Peter (from the Reptile Database) and he forwarded it to Sebastian Lotzkat who is writing a book about the reptiles of Panama.  Sebastian said it is (with 90% certainty) A. benedikti, a species that he described only 5 years ago!  For 100% certainty he would need to see the dewlap.  Marc saw the dewlap but didn't take a photo of it.  You never know when you'll discover a new species or come close to discovering one!

We made it safely down to the Big Tree Loop and saw a new bird for us called a Spangle-cheeked Tanager.  We arrived back to the lodge in two and a half hours from the summit.  We showered and discovered we were covered with chigger bites particularly around the waist.  We've never had so many bites!

That evening our friend Fritz, whom we had met at Altos del Maria a couple of weeks earlier, arrived at the lodge.  We were able to go birding with him the following morning.  We ended up seeing more monkeys than birds.  We encountered our first Geoffroy's Spider Monkeys of the trip.

All too soon it was time to return to the lodge and say goodbye to Fritz.  We drove to the city of David where we left our rental truck and flew back to Panama City the following day.  After spending an exciting month exploring Panama it was time to move on.  Our next destination is Chile so stay tuned for more stories from the field.


Los Quetzales Bird List:

1. Yellow-thighed Finch
2. Red-breasted Grosbeak
3. Chestnut-capped Brush Finch
4. Large-footed Finch
5. White-throated Mountain-gem
6. Magnificent Hummingbird
7. Streak-headed Woodcreeper
8. Prong-billed Barbet
9. Black Guan
10. Black Vulture
11. Green-fronted Lancebill
12. Lesser Violetear
13. Volcano Hummingbird
14. Scintillant Hummingbird
15. Resplendent Quetzal
16. Collared Trogon
17. Acorn Woodpecker
18. Red-faced Spinetail
19. Mountain Elaenia
20. Tufted Flycatcher
21. Yellowish Flycatcher
22. Black-capped Flycatcher
23. Rufous-browed Peppershrike
24. Brown-capped Vireo
25. Ochraceous Wren
26. Gray-breasted Wood-Wren
27. Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush
28. Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrush
29. Mountain Thrush
30. Clay-colored Thrush
31. Black-and-yellow Silky-flycatcher
32. Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher
33. Black-and-white Warbler
34. Flame-throated Warbler
35. Black-throated Green Warbler
36. Black-cheeked Warbler
37. Wilson's Warbler
38. Slate-throated Redstart
39. Collared Redstart
40. Slaty Flowerpiercer
41. Sooty-capped Chlorospingus
42. Rufous-collared Sparrow
43. Summer Tanager
44. Flame-colored Tanager
45. Yellow-bellied Siskin
46. Fiery-throated Hummingbird
47. Buff-throated Foliage-Gleaner

Mount Totumas Bird List:

1. Slaty Flowerpiercer
2. Flame-colored Tanager
3. Mountain Thrush
4. Red-crowned Woodpecker
5. Bay-headed Tanager
6. Torrent Tyrannulet
7. Dark Peewee
8. Rufous-collared Sparrow
9. American Dipper
10. Lesser Goldfinch
11. Boat-billed Flycatcher
12. Summer Tanager
13. Yellowish Flycatcher
14. Sulphur-winged Parakeet
15. Yellow-bellied Sapsucker
16. Spangle-cheeked Tanager
17. Black-and-yellow Silky-Flycatcher
18. White-tipped Dove
19. Black-and-white Warbler
20. Turkey Vulture
21. Band-tailed Pigeon
22. Common Chlorospingus
23. Slate-throated Redstart
24. Black-faced Solitaire
25. Blue-and-white Swallow

Western Panama Mammal List

Posted by Marc & Peggy Faucher at 2:03 PM 1 comment: Labels: Cacomistle, Geoffroy's Spider Monkey, Kinkajou, La Amistad International Park, Los Quetzales Ecolodge and Spa, Mantled Howler, Mount Totumas Cloud Forest, Panama, Resplendent Quetzal


Birding and Barú


After our exciting trip to the Darien Province of Panama it was time to strike out on our own.  We rented a 4x4 Toyota Hilux pickup truck for our explorations to the west.  We left Panama City on January 22 and after getting lost in the maze of the city's streets, we found the Pan-American Highway and cruised to our first destination, Altos del Maria.  We visited here 6 years ago and I always wondered what it would be like to own a home nestled in a tropical cloud forest.  So we rented a casita for 9 nights to find out.  We finally found our new home on a quiet side street and settled in.

We connected with resident birders, Alfred and Fritz, who showed us the best local birding spots and helped us identify many birds.  Thanks, Alfred and Fritz!

Although it is a massive planned residential community, less than 50% of the homes had been built so there is still plenty of intact forest to explore.  We spent most of our time in a gated community called Valle Bonito (Beautiful Valley).  All the infrastructure, roads, street lights, electricity had been put in but no houses had yet been built.  We could wander the empty streets looking for birds.  Our favorites were:

One morning we visited nearby Altos de Campana National Park.  Although quite close to Panama City it's rarely visited.  We hiked La Cruz Trail.  It was very steep and eroded in places but we made it to the top where a large cross had been erected on a rock (hence the name of the trail).

On another day we left Altos del Maria and drove to nearby El Valle de Anton.  We had arranged to visit Canopy Lodge and have lunch with the owner, Raúl Arias.  We had stayed here 6 years ago and fond memories flooded back just as soon as we entered the property.  We met Raúl and his wife Denise and had a pleasant lunch while enjoying the birds visiting the feeders.

Raúl told us we should also visit the Amphibian Rescue Center just outside of town and we're glad we did.  The center is now the only place you can see a Panamanian Golden Frog (Atelopus zeteki), a species of frog endemic to Panama.  Panamanian Golden Frogs used to inhabit the streams along the mountainous slopes of the Cordilleran cloud forests of west-central Panama.  While the IUCN lists it as critically endangered, it may have been extinct in the wild since 2007.  Here at the Amphibian Rescue Center individuals have been collected for breeding in captivity in an attempt to preserve the species.

The Panamanian Golden Frog began vanishing from its high mountain forests in the late 1990s, prompting a scientific investigation and rescue process that continues today.  It was filmed for the last time in the wild in 2006 by the BBC Natural History Unit for the series "Life in Cold Blood by David Attenborough".  The Panamanian Golden Frog suffered major declines possibly due to the fungal infection chytridiomycosis and habit loss.

After spending 9 nights at Altos del Maria it was time to move on.  Once all the planned homes, town homes, shops, tennis courts, mini golf course and restaurants are built the area will be changed forever.  For now it remains a peaceful place with stunning mountain views and ample birding opportunities.

We continued our road trip west toward the town of Boquete.  Nestled in the mountains it has become another popular retirement community.  We rented a tiny casita at La Hacienda Bed and Breakfast as a base to explore the area.  Again birding was the main draw and we hired a local guide, Cesar, to show us the birding hotspots.  He took us to Finca Lerida, the oldest coffee plantation in Panama, founded by Norwegian engineer Toleff Bache Mönniche after he retired from working on the Panama Canal in 1924.  Today the Finca continues to produce high quality coffee as well as hosting guests with trails for birding.  The ornamentals planted on the grounds attract many hummingbirds and flowerpiercers.

Sulphur-winged Parakeets swooped in to feed on a nearby guava tree.

We climbed past rows of coffee trees to a lookout over the farm.

Near the top Ngöbe Buglé indigenous people were harvesting coffee.  It's tough work on these steep slopes picking the coffee cherries by hand.  We stopped to say hi to a woman and her two daughters picking coffee.  They earn $3.50 for every 30 pounds of cherries picked.  It's not a lot of money and many pickers go to Costa Rica where they earn more money making it difficult for Panamanian coffee plantations to get enough workers to harvest the coffee.

As we entered the forest, I spotted a Central American Agouti foraging in the trail.  He was too busy to notice Marc creeping closer for a photo.

In the higher elevation forests were different birds such as Golden-winged Warblers, Slate-throated Redstarts and Red-faced Spinetail.  Cesar spotted our first Resplendent Quetzal, a female perched silently on a branch above us.

The town of Boquete sits at the base of Volcán Barú.  At 11,398 feet it is the highest point in Panama.

I asked our host Quincy how do we go about getting to the top.  He suggested we book a guide through Boquete Outdoor Adventures.  We visited their office and arranged to climb the volcano on Thursday night.  That's correct, Volcán Barú is typically climbed during the night so you can arrive at the summit for sunrise when the weather is clear.  We set off around midnight with our two guides, Alex and Christian.  We donned our packs and switched on our headlamps.  From this point we had to climb a mere 4100 feet to get to the summit, much more doable than 7500 feet above Boquete!

We climbed in darkness up a rutted road filled with rocks.  We made steady progress stopping occasionally to take layers off or put them on and to drink and eat.  It was surprisingly calm.  The wind had been howling around La Hacienda.   We were making good time and realized we'd be at the summit too early so we slowed our pace which caused us to get cold.  We stopped below the summit and Alex and Christian built a fire to warm us up.

We resumed our climb at about 5:30 AM.  We arrived at the main summit with some buildings and lots of communication towers.  Alex and Christian stopped here but I could some of the younger hikers climbing higher along the crater rim so I followed them.  Christian came running up saying it was too dangerous to continue but I wanted to reach the true summit.  Alex caught up to us and when he saw that we wanted to go all the way, he helped me up the scrambly bits.  We reached the true summit around 6:15, about 35 minutes prior to sunrise.

We climbed lower down on the rim where we stopped to watch the sun rise.  It was very impressive with liquid gold spilling over the Pacific Ocean to the southeast.  We could also see the Caribbean Sea to the northeast.  This is only one of a few places you can see both on a clear day at the same time.

We headed back down and reached the pick up point just before 11:00 AM.

The next day we arranged to go birding with Cesar again.  This time we went to the Pipeline Trail.  We were seeing some new species like Elegant Euphonia, Black-cheeked Warbler, Collared Redstart, Brown-capped Vireo, Blue-throated Toucanet, Yellow-thighed Finch and Red-headed Barbet.

Cesar heard a Resplendent Quetzal and I spotted a male sitting in a nearby tree.  Marc was able to photograph him as he flew from the branch.

After spending 2 weeks in central and western Panama it was time to continue our journey further west near the border with Costa Rica.  Stay tuned to see what lays in store for us.  We hope all is well with everyone.
 Altos del Maria Bird List (Canopy Lodge in El Valle):

1. Gray-headed Chachalaca
2. Great Blue Heron
3. Green Heron
4. Black Vulture
5. Turkey Vulture
6. Roadside Hawk
7. Broad-winged Hawk
8. White-throated Crake
9. Spotted Sandpiper
10. Squirrel Cuckoo
11. Green-crowned Brilliant
12. Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
13. Crowned Woodnymph
14. Snowcap
15. Rufous-breasted Hermit
16. Snowy-bellied Hummingbird
17. Green Hermit
18. Brown Violetear
19. Orange-bellied Trogan
20. Lesson's Motmot
21. Broad-billed Motmot
22. Belted Kingfisher
23. Amazon Kingfisher
24. Green Kingfisher
25. Emerald Toucanet
26. Collared Aracari
27. Keel-billed Toucan
28. Red-crowned Woodpecker
29. Smoky-brown Woodpecker
30. Crimson-bellied Woodpecker
31. Lineated Woodpecker
32. Orange-chinned Parakeet
33. Brown-hooded Parrot
34. Blue-headed Parrot
35. Cocoa Woodcreeper
36. Spotted Woodcreeper
37. Chestnut-backed Antbird
38. Plain Xenops
39. Red-faced Spinetail
40. Yellow-bellied Elaenia
41. Lesser Elaenia
42. Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet
43. Rufous-browed Tyrannulet
44. Paltry Tyrannulet
45. Panama Flycatcher
46. Boat-billed Flycatcher
47. Social Flycatcher
48. Streaked Flycatcher
49. Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant
50. White-throated Spadebill
51. Bran-colored Flycatcher
52. Tufted Flycatcher
53. Dusky-capped Flycatcher
54. Great Kiskadee
55. Tropical Kingbird
56. White-ruffed Manakin
57. Lance-tailed Manakin
58. Northern Schiffornis
59. Philadelphia Vireo
60. Black-chested Jay
61. Gray-breasted Martin
62. Scaly-breasted Wren
63. House Wren
64. Rufous-and-white Wren
65. White-breasted Wood-Wren
66. Gray-breasted Wood-Wren
67. Pale-vented Thrush
68. Clay-colored Thrush
69. Louisiana/Northern Waterthrush
70. Golden-winged Warbler
71. Tennessee Warbler
72. Mourning Warbler
73. Blackburnian Warbler
74. Black-and-white Warbler
75. Yellow Warbler
76. Canada Warbler
77. Black-throated Green Warbler
78. Rufous-capped Warbler
79. Tawny-crested Tanager
80. Blue-gray Tanager
81. Golden-hooded Tanager
82. Bay-headed Tanager
83. Silver-throated Tanager
84. Scarlet-thighed Dacnis
85. Black-and-yellow Tanager
86. Bananaquit
87. Yellow-faced Grassquit
88. Common Chlorospingus
89. Hepatic Tanager
90. Red-crowned Ant-Tanager
91. Common Chlorospingus
92. Chestnut-headed Oropendola
93. Plain-colored Tanager
94. Red-legged Honeycreeper
95. Green Honeycreeper
96. Summer Tanager
97. Yellow-backed Oriole
98. Tawny-capped Euphonia
99. Black-striped Sparrow
100. Buff-throated Saltator
101. Greenish Elaenia
102. Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher

Boquete Bird List (Finca Lerida, Los Quetzales Trail, Pipeline Trail & Finca El Velo)

1. Black Vulture
2. Broad-winged Hawk
3. Lesser Violetear
4. Magnificent Hummingbird
6. Scintillant Hummingbird
7. Stripe-tailed Hummingbird
8. White-tailed Emerald
9. Snowy-bellied Hummingbird
10. Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
11. Resplendent Quetzal
12. Red-headed Barbet
13. Emerald Toucanet (Blue-throated supspecies)
14. Acorn Woodpecker
15. Sulphur-winged Parakeet
16. Spot-crowned Woodcreeper
17. Red-faced Spinetail
18. Dark Pewee
19. Yellowish Flycatcher
20. Brown-capped Vireo
21. House Wren
22. Ochraceous Wren
23. Clay-colored Thrush
24. Orange-billed Nightingale Thrush
25. Tropical Mockingbird
26. Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher
27. Golden-winged Warbler
28. Black-and-white Warbler
29. Tennessee Warbler
30. Blackburnian Warbler
31. Chestnut-sided Warbler
32. Wilson's Warbler
33. Black-cheeked Warbler
34. Slate-throated Redstart
35. Collared Redstart
36. Blue-gray Tanager
37. Palm Tanager
38. Cherrie's Tanager
39. Silver-throated Tanager
41. Yellow-faced Grassquit
42. Buff-throated Saltator
43. Chestnut-capped Brushfinch
44. Rufous-collared Sparrow
45. White-naped Brushfinch
46. Summer Tanager
47. Flame-colored Tanager
48. White-winged Tanager
49. Rose-breasted Grosbeak
50. Baltimore Oriole
51. Lesser Goldfinch
52. Thick-billed Euphonia
53. Elegant Euphonia
54. Common Chlorospingus
55. Yellow-thighed Finch
56. Paltry Tyrannulet
57. Black-faced Solitaire
58. Red-tailed Hawk
59. Tufted Flycatcher
60. Flame-throated Warbler
61. Gray-breasted Wood-wren
62. Slaty Antwren
63. Orange-bellied Trogan
64. Golden-crowned Warbler
65. Black-thighed Grosbeak
66. Barred Becard
67. Black-throated Green Warbler
68. Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner
69. Streak-breasted Treehunter
70. Hairy Woodpecker
Central Panama Mammal List:

Posted by Marc & Peggy Faucher at 6:26 PM No comments: Labels: Altos del Maria, Boquete, Campana National Park, Canopy Lodge, El Valle, Finca Lerida, Los Quetzales Trail, Panama, Panamanian Golden Frog, Pipeline Trail, Resplendent Quetzal, Volcan Baru
