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How about we ALL get on the clue bus?

It is so easy to avoid a train wreck...why wouldn't you? Just the simple, basics of life... you know... like:

Packs you don't need to be Houdini to figure out how to get on, get off or pack

Hammers that you can actually hammer something useful with

Stop trying to sell down insulation as a "belay" parka

Trying to tell me why a detachable hood is a good thing on a belay parka

Umbilical attachments or even umbilicals actually designed to stay attached

Tool handles actually as strong and reliable as the leashes they replaced

While we are at it, a commercial  umbilical that can take 2000lbs static load

"Soft mid sole ice climbing boots"......which makes about as much sense as "melting ice cream".

Just say *NO* to flexible crampons, you life will be better for it

And say *NO* to climbing gear that you throw away after it hits a file twice

(hit and run, Rant mode off )
Posted by Dane at 3:28 PM 
"Stop trying to sell down insulation as a "belay" parka"
Please elaborate. Shouldn't one use a down jacket like rab Neutrino on belay in cold wet conditions?

February 2, 2011 at 4:41 AM Edvin Mellergård said...

Hi Dane! Great blogg, keep it up!

Just a quick tip on the umbilicals. Ever thought about larksfooting your leashes to your tools? Works great for me. Took a piece of thin webbing, not full strength but alot strong that the stuff I use to tie my aid climbing hooks with, threaded a piece of bungycord through and tied loops in the end, larksfoot on the tools to keep weight down where it mostly matters and clip with a light screwgate on my harness. I then also thuck the leashes inside my cheststrap on my backpack to stop them from hanging down and snagging on icicles. Also help to keep the front clearer.


February 2, 2011 at 6:36 AM 
Great stuff Edvin, thank you.

Runar? The main role of a belay jacket is to dry you out on a climb while adding extra warmth. High tech fabrics will protect a down jacket from the outside weather. Keeping the down dry from the inside is another story altogether. But Down won't dry you out and retain its insulation properties. It will get wet from the inside and loose the ability to keep you warm.

Typically you won't keep a Down jacket dry if you are actually climbing. Down is not the insulation of choice except in the coldest environments and were you can afford the time and effort to keep your down dry both inside and out. Not the typical definition of a "modern" climb.

I think the better answer than down for insulation in a climbing specific jacket is Primaloft 1 insulation or Arcteryx's answers, ThermaTek and Coreloft.

I like down a lot but it has too many limitations as clothing insulation to use while climbing as a belay specific jacket.


February 2, 2011 at 8:48 AM 
Thanks for the reply and well put.
I suspected as much, but have been unsure due to the amount of climbers wearing down when belaying.

February 3, 2011 at 12:19 AM