title: Trying to identify these LEGO pieces

text:
# Question
Title: Trying to identify these LEGO pieces
Does anyone know what set(s) these belong to? I have been searching but have had no luck. Thank you.

# Answer
The back part of this set is from set 7693 ETX Alien Strike from the Mars Mission theme from 2007. I found this by looking for sets that had at least 4 of the “Plate 1x2 with bar - free ends” in Orange, and then looked at all the matching sets to find the “flag” piece with the (in your case) badly placed sticker.

The front slope with the circled 4 is not from that set; in fact, I cannot find any such piece on BrickLink at all, so this might be from a clone set as were the other items you originally posted in your question but since removed. Does it have LEGO markings anywhere on the piece?
> 3 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Did Samsonite ever made LEGO studs? (1 x 1 round plates)
Having done some basic research it would seem that Samsonite stopped producing bricks before lego introduced studs, however I don’t fully understand the deal lego made with Samsonite, and I don’t fully trust the dates I found, so if anyone could explain it better I would be very appreciative.

As a side note, im curious particularly about the color of the studs. I’m attempting to collect every color of stud I reasonably can and iirc Samsonite used slightly different colors than lego, any info on other 1 x 1 pieces would also be helpful.

# Answer
According to this listing, it appears Samsonite manufactured square 1x1 plates:

However, I cannot find any record of round variations by Samsonite.
> 3 votes

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Tags: history
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title: What set is this from? Or piece #

text:
# Question
Title: What set is this from? Or piece #
I have this tote of LEGO bricks and wondering about the large Grey piece - large irregular light grey baseplate with two slopes running perpendicular to each other that don't have pips.

What set is it from so I can maybe download instructions.

# Answer
> 6 votes
This is a Megabloks Baseplate ( MO1593 )

Source

it is from set #1411

Battle Shell Bridge

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: What is this extra bag from 11019 set for?
This came in the classic 11019 Lego set. No additional instructions. I looked on Lego website and nothing showed up. There was an online locomotive to make? Looks like there’s sets of wheels and gears. Any help is appreciated! The bag that came has the number 135149 copyrighted in 2017

# Answer
As you've mentioned in your question, the bag is from set 11019.

It seems that the confusion arises from the fact that most Lego sets do not have so many "spare" parts as is the case here.

However, with the Lego Classic line you will often find that there are more parts in the set than building instructions. If you look at the box you can note that it says "Ideas included". I've found that when that text is there, the instructions have several smaller individual builds for most of the pieces, but there is an "extra" bag or two with additional pieces which fits the theme - in this case exemplified by the gears.
> 2 votes

# Answer
This set doesn't have an intention to use all the bricks to build a defined set of models. As seen from description below (emphasis is mine) included instructions is a way for young builders to learn using LEGO bricks in new way and more of an inspiration for own builds. Extra bag is just a bag of more bricks to play with.

Description for Bricks and Functions (11019) set:

LEGO® Classic creations with fun functions The LEGO® Classic Bricks and Functions (11019) building set comes with a colorful selection of LEGO pieces and **instructions to make 7 fun buildable toys** with gear-driven functions. Kids get to construct models with moving parts, from a pirouetting ballerina to a helicopter with spinning rotors, **before diving into the bags of extra bricks to build their very own LEGO creations**.

Perfect for children aged 5 and up Kids will love building and playing with these functional models. And because each one comes with a step-by-step, pictorial building guide, even first-time builders can experience the pride and joy of constructing their own LEGO toys.

Kids develop key life skills LEGO Classic playsets inspire children to get creative with exciting themes and building ideas that stimulate open-ended play. Learning has never been so much fun!

Create LEGO® models with different functions – The LEGO Classic Bricks and Functions (11019) playset comes with colorful LEGO pieces and **7 mini builds** with gear-driven functions **to kick-start the fun**

* What’s in the box? – All kids need to build a pirouetting ballerina, a push-along helicopter with spinning rotors, an apple with a pop-up worm and more, plus lots of LEGO® bricks for creative building
* Open-ended creativity – Kids get to **build and play with the 7 included model *ideas***, then innovate and discover as they find imaginative ways **to create their very own LEGO® toys**
* A gift for any occasion – The LEGO® Classic Bricks and Functions (11019) toy playset is a gift for any occasion. Suitable for kids aged 5 and up Includes 500 LEGO® pieces – Kids can **build whatever they imagine** with this original LEGO playset and can combine it with other LEGO sets for even more creativity
* More sets to collect and combine – Kids can combine this playset with others from the LEGO® Classic range
* Step-by-step, pictorial building guides – **Every model comes with easy-to-follow building instructions, so even first-time builders can experience the fun of constructing their own LEGO® toys**
* Playful learning – Kids develop important creative skills as they build and play
* High-quality creative building toys – All LEGO® Classic components meet strict industry standards to ensure they’re consistent and compatible
* Safety first – All LEGO® building toys are thoroughly tested to ensure every playset meets strict safety standards
> 2 votes

# Answer
Is it this set? The parts appear to match and it has the same set number. If so, there should be an instructions booklet in the box (not the bag itself) and possibly a QR code somewhere. Otherwise, you can look at the pictures of completed models (7 in all) that appear on the website. If you've already made them, it could just be spare parts! Legos are for creating your own thing. You can experiment with the parts and make your own contraptions :)
> 0 votes

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Tags: lego-group
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# Question
Title: What brand of non-Lego bricks are these with hollow studs and diagonal walls on their undersides?
Believe they are from the 1960’s, available in Australia.

# Answer
I find the article Bricks on Display: a collection of interlocking building bricks on brickset to be a good source of information for this kind of question.

These appear to be Montini bricks (made by Berco Lux in Tiel, Holland, in the 1960s, as a clone of the early Lego Mursten) :

(images are from that same article)

The name of the brand should be engraved on the surface somewhere (between the studs afaict) - can you find it ?
> 2 votes

# Answer
1st guess Montini, made in The Netherlands, but mine had name atop. Do 2×x have pegs to fit hollow studs? Made of softer plastic than Lego is.
> 0 votes

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands, vintage
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# Question
Title: Help with Lego Typewriter 21327 - can't get the carriage mechanism working
Two AFOLs here who are stuck on the Lego Typewriter build. We have built large and complex sets before, but this one has us stumped. We have now rebuilt Sections 5-7 twice, but we can't get the carriage mechanism working.

See the video at Reddit. All of the gears seem to be turning, and the carriage moves when we manually press the lever next to the lime green part on the left side of the back (looking at the front). However, the keys don't move the carriage. When we push the carriage all the way to the right as shown on page 170 of the instructions, typing on the keys does not move the carriage back to the left as shown on page 171.

The keys don't seem to be striking any of the mechanisms. The grey and blue pieces (closest to the keyboard in the back section) are moving, but the keys and the carriage don't seem to be connected. It's hard to describe, but the video shows the problem more clearly.

Can anyone help troubleshoot this?

# Answer
> 5 votes
From what I can see in your video, the carriage mechanism itself doesn't appear to be the problem, but rather the linkage between the keys and the carriage.

Pressing a key should move this assembly from step 152:

In your video, it looks like the left side of that assembly doesn't move freely. It should move when a key is pressed and activate the typebar to strike the page. I'm guessing that something is off with the way that mechanism is built or installed.

One thing to check would be the orientation of the black elements in step 134:

These should be able to rotate easily around the gray part.

# Answer
> 1 votes
We had exactly the same problem. This set has 2 elbow pieces 6262905 and 6261387. The directions do not specify which one you need for the step 199. However it has a 3 imprinted on it.

These 2 elbow pieces have different angles. So you need the one with 3 imprinted on it or piece 6261387. After we switched that piece it all works.

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Tags: building, sets, ideas
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# Question
Title: Cat D11 bulldozer - should the plough and the frame be connected?
I’ve completed this and now have some remedial work to do! Can I please check though, are the two parts at the back (the ‘plough’ and the ‘frame’ with the ‘pistons’ on) supposed to be connected in any way? I haven’t connected them but it seems like they should be.

# Answer
> 7 votes
Step 925 indicates there are four attachment points for the plow. I'd suggest checking your model against this, making sure each point lines up.

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Tags: technic
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# Question
Title: Are there LEGO pieces without "LEGO" logo?
I have a LEGO wizard, the green one with a wizard hat that has a dragon on it but the hat doesn't have a "LEGO" logo on it. Also the beard. But the rest of the torso and legs have markings on them. Are the hat and beard fake?

# Answer
> 1 votes
Some Lego parts don't have a logo on them, depending on the mold.

Like the helmet in this question

Need help identifying helmet

your figure is probably this

Part 6131pb03 : Minifigure, Headgear Hat, Wizard / Witch with Black Buckle and Gold Dragon Pattern

from cas435 - Dark Green Wizard

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Does anyone have any idea what this set is?
I am sorting sets for my grandson. Any idea about this set. I need instructions and parts but don't know the set of set group. Any help appreciated.

# Answer
This is

Set# 8511 : Frost

key part : Trans-Light Blue Minifigure, Weapon Pike / Spear - Handle with Round End
> 4 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: How can I motorize the Hogwarts Express (76423)
I'd like to motorize this train set:

What is the best way to accomplish this?

# Answer
> 32 votes
There are number of ways to accomplish this. The locomotive traditionally provides the power for a train, so that is a natural place to start. Unfortunately, this locomotive is difficult to motorize directly for a few reasons.

## Powered Locomotive Challenges

The wheel type and spacing makes it difficult to directly use the very simple City train motor:

This is typically used with the smaller train wheels, and the spacing doesn't align properly with the larger wheels used in this locomotive:

These wheels can be motorized using Technic gears and axles along with a small motor, but I couldn't find an easy way to hide that setup inside this locomotive.

We'd also still need to find a place to house the battery box.

## Powered Coaches

Another option could be to motorize one of the coaches. This would be awkward on this set, as they are relatively small and use only a single wheel at each end. The train motor works best when driving a pair.

There would also still be the challenge of stowing the battery box which would necessarily cut into the interior space in the coaches. I didn't want to mess with the interior of the coaches as they provide interest and play value for the set:

## Powered Tender

The approach that worked for me was to modify the tender to house both the battery box and the train motor. Here's the tender from the set:

In order to add a motor and hide the battery box, the tender needed to get about 3 plates taller, so this does change the look of the set a bit. I don't think it changes things too much, especially since it allows the locomotive and coaches to remain unchanged.

Here's the basic process of building the tender:

The parts list and more detailed instructions can be found on Rebrickable.

I don't apply stickers generally, but I assume that this would look a bit more authentic with the stickers applied. I did leave the open hub port facing the coaches, so light could be added to these fairly easily if desired. Overall, I found this solution to be fairly simple, and it works quite well:

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Tags: motor, trains, powered-up, set-modification, harry-potter
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# Question
Title: What is the name and ID of this part and what is it used for?
Attached is a picture of the clone part, what is its name and ID, and what is it used for?

I tried looking for it on rebrickable.com or bricklink.com but couldn't find it anywhere.

The part is orange, I saw it in this clone set.

# Answer
> 6 votes
The image you received is a clone part

but this is part # 96874

Brick and Axle Separator

it is used to separate bricks and other parts

this video could be helpful

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands, bricklink
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# Question
Title: EV3 gyroscope drifts when brick is still - what can be done?
The gyroscope value continuously increases/decreases, even when the brick is not rotating! What could be done in order to avoid, mitigate or at least reduce the impact of this behaviour?

# Answer
This is a pretty common issue called "gyro drift". If the gyroscope is rotating when plugged in and/or when the brick starts up, that constant rotation will be seen as "resting", and when the gyroscope is still, it believes it is rotating.
There are two main fixes to this

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## Hardware fix

In this, you simply unplug the gyroscope, then plug it back in while holding the robot very still. Any rotation can drift the gyroscope, however, it is pretty simple for most robots.

Alternatively, completely restart the robot while keeping it still. Most of the time this is easier to do, though it takes quite a while.

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## Software fix

In the software, you can account for the gyroscope drift. Instead of measuring the gyroscope directly, create a variable called `gyro`. At the start of the program, measure the gyroscope speed multiple times (about 10 should be good for most applications), waiting a small amount of time (try 0.05 seconds) between each, and take the average of the measurements. Then, every second, change the `gyro` variable by the gyro speed MINUS the averaged gyroscope drift. My preferred method for doing this is to broadcast a message, and have a forever loop in the broadcast receiver, updating `gyro` and waiting one second in the loop. This keeps your main forever loop free to run quickly.
> 2 votes

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Tags: ev3, gyro
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# Question
Title: What electronics are inside the SPIKE 3x3 LED Matrix?
What is inside the LEGO 3x3 Color Light Matrix 45608?

Pictures of the assembled Top- & Bottom- PCB would be helpful.

# Answer
> 1 votes
There are 4 clips holding this together. It isn't too difficult to get apart with a little prying. Here's what it looks like with the cover removed:

The board can then be popped out of the housing. Here's a close-up of the front:

There are 9 surface-mount LEDs just as one might expect.

Here's a shot of the back of the board:

The larger chip appears to be numbered:

```
V0269
3235A

```

I believe that this part is a 28-port dimmable LED driver. This provides enough output to drive the display (3 x 3 x 3 colors = 27 LEDs).

The smaller chip appears to be numbered:

```
S103
PHVC
0317

```

Here's a better shot of that chip:

This looks like an STM8S103 microcontroller similar to the chip used in Powered Up motors that provide position feedback.

There are also a number of smaller chips and passive components on the board, but they are probably a bit less interesting.

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Tags: electronics, disassembly, spike-prime
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# Question
Title: Alternative to LEGO Education for Technic parts?
I am trying to work through the LEGO Education platform, however am stuck at where to buy a big set of gears and similar from.

There are sets of 50pcs for **$40+**, which is clearly a ripoff. Or 500 pieces for **$100+**. Clearly I'm not willing to go broke for some plastic pieces, hence the question.

How did you obtain a good amount of... pretty much all the basic parts?

# Answer
I'm not sure what your use-case is here, but LEGO Education is probably the most expensive way to simply buy parts. When you purchase from LEGO Education, you are also paying for access to a bundled classroom curriculum in addition to the parts you are buying. In essence, these shouldn't be valued in $/part, but something more like $/hour of learning experience.

If you are looking to design your own learning experiences, or you just want a pile of bricks for students to engage with, LEGO Education is likely not the best value. In this case I'd recommend buying regular sets that roughly match the part profile you are hoping for. If you are comfortable buying used parts, then I'd recommend sites like Bricklink, BrickOwl, or eBay.

This related question may also be of interest:

What's the most cost effective way to buy bulk LEGO bricks?
> 3 votes

# Answer
Actually, even LEGO PAB (Pick A Brick) can be a good choice- https://www.lego.com/en-us/pick-and-build/pick-a-brick?query=gear&system=TECHNIC&page=2

The link is a simple search I did for Technic gears.
> 1 votes

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Tags: technic, gears
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# Question
Title: What bicycle is this? The handlebars and stand are at an unusual angle
I have this bike from the 80s/90s (4719, red). I wanted to buy another one, but I can’t find this specific version on BrickLink:

The handle bar and stand are at an angle, so the bike can be leaned to a wall conveniently. But I can only find bikes with straight handle bars.

There are three *LEGO* marks on the frame (inside the headlight and on both sides of the pedal axis), as well as the lettering `4 7 1 9` on the left side of the frame, and `1` on the right.

Does anyone know from which set this is … or the specific name of this part?

**Edit:** Here’s a close-up of the handle bar and I can see that it definitely was twisted:

It was probably forgotten under a heavy box over the summer, or something like that!

# Answer
The number indicates part 4719 - bicycle frame.

As you can see, it has a straight handlebars and kickstand. Your particular piece must have been modified to fit some specific purpose. Lego does not reuse the same mold numbers much, and never on the purpose, so I highly doubt if it was molded that way.
> 14 votes

# Answer
I have found a similar one (4719c02) but with a new-style frame with open stud (still 4719) and new wheels (92851pb01). Although this one does not have the twisted kickstand.
> 1 votes

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information
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# Question
Title: I have bought a mixed lego bundle and there is one set I cannot identify. The seller has sent this picture, any ideas what the second build is?
This is a clone wars item I believe (so does the seller) but neither of us have a clue as to what, and its now in bits. Doulbe cannon at front (pivot sideways) 2 engines, not an AT. Side fins beside blasters are marked as 501st.

# Answer
Searching Bricklink for pieces that have "501" on them results in a delightfully short list, of which two possible items emerge:

The second one can clearly be seen in the first and third assemblies, and the palette of the pieces in the second assembly is strikingly similar to this one, so I'm quite sure it's a MOC of that one.
> 1 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: How to disassemble the propulsion wheels of the LEGO/DUPLO train engine base part# 28743 drivetrain?
I have a push and go motor, also known as Hub No5 model also known as engine base part #28743

The issue I have is that the train can not climb the bridge anymore, unless using the locomotive alone and also stops in curves. After looking carefully I noticed that one of the wheels was slipping.

When I take it in my hand upside down, make the front wheels rotate (the one with the sensors), the propulsion wheels starts rotating. At that moment, if I try to slow down one of them with my finger, I feel it generate torque. For the other one, it just stops easily and I feel the wheel axis continuing to rotate. And I feel some steps.

With the help of the thread How to disassemble LEGO train engine base part #28743 I managed to disassemble nearly everything.

Now, I would like to remove the wheel from it's axis to see what is "broken" inside, and hopefully with the help of a 3D printer, rebuild the broken part.

Any idea how to unmount that ? Is it simple "press fit" (I don't know the exact english name for that).

**EDIT**

I have to precise two things.

1. The batteries are fully charged so it's not an issue
2. I have two locomotive #28743 and one of them has an issue. I really feel something broken in the "wheel", the wheel is loose from the gear and can rotate nearly freely. So it's not some kind of a kid protection you really feel something is broken inside and that's why I wanted to know how to disassemble the wheel.

# Answer
> 8 votes
My back wheels do the same thing. There is no metal axle that connects both back wheels like the axle design does for the front wheels, but I'm sure *LEGO* designed it that way.

So, imagine the train's motor being in an "ON" state just a rolling. Now enters a kid, just being a kid. Grabs the thing, and starts a rolling in whichever direction kiddie wants to roll. Not a caring that the motor is doing it's own thing too. How does *LEGO* protect the device from the free rolling madness of a child?

So, I think this slippage is a built in feature to kid proof protect the motor from being over torqued. Some type of reverse rocket booster dampening system. Analogous maybe to a circuit breaker which, is an automatic device for stopping the flow of current in an electric circuit as a safety measure.

**Possible solutions:**

**(01) Battery check.** You said it no longer can pull extra weight, and that it stalls even on flat normal gravity leveled curves? Huh? So, before we go too deep, I would recommend first replacing the batteries with new ones. Then, retest it.

**(02) Balancing our time vs. the money justification check.** Tearing down the housing to get inner access to remove excess hair and debris from this unit is fairly easy, and just requires buying a *T9 Star Torque* from the local hardware store and maybe 15 mins of our time.

Even though this thing is *LEGO* engineered like a tank, we can still imagining extensive damage, let's say a smoosh over by car, where we'd need to replace the circuit board, motor, or destroyed plastic gears.

Then, maybe it might be time to do *a price check* and consider purchasing a new/used unit versus the time to invest and produce a 3D printed replacement.

**(03) Axle wheel hub tear down (setup only).** I'm not taking mine apart, becasue I haven't justified a reason that works out for me, but this is my observational approach if anyone else wants to venture further into the unknown.

So, let's look at the wheel design and note the similarities/differences between both wheel hubs.

Break down wheel hub anatomy consists of *at least three* pieces.

1. Inside hub piece.
2. In between trans-clear rubber tire tread.
3. Outside hub piece.
4. Unknown non-visible pieces. Possible notched out axle bar.

The inside hub pieces and in between trans-clear tire tread all look to be the same molds, where the outside hub pieces differ in aesthetic design, but function in the same way when interlocking with the inside hub piece.

Here's where things get dicey. There seems to be six interlocking tabs that need to be simultaneously unhitched to separate the pieces without permanent damage. Unless you happen to be a six clawed mutant named *Wolverine*, this will be a challenge.

**Six interlocking tabs release damage free setup and approach:**

1. Hot glue one end to work desk for stability.
2. Insert six flat head precision screwdrivers.
3. Wiggle until it's free.

**Six interlocking tabs release egg breaking, omelette making approach:** Goal: 3D print a replacement, so permanent damage doesn't matter.

1. Using a *Dremel* rotary tool, carefully drill out 4 of the 6 interlocking tabs ONLY. Don't go deep. We can 3D print plastic, but not the clear-trans rubber treading.
2. Insert two flat head precision screwdrivers to disengage the locking function of the 2 remaining tabs.
3. Using a digital caliper measure out the dimensions of the working 2 remaining tabs.
4. 3D print replacement piece.
5. Consider using some Loc-Tite glue adhesive when reassembling the wheel hubs.

# Answer
> 4 votes
Regarding to **wheel split** and **interlocking tabs**:

There is simpier way to do it, hopefully without permanent damage to the wheel.

Requires: 2+ flat precision screwdrivers.

Howto:

1. Push screwdriver in between the rubber part and top (side) part of the wheel
2. Push another screwdriver to the closest hole with tab - push from the centre to the edge
3. Optionally - repeat 2 with another screwdriver in a hole close by
4. Repeat 1 to 3 in another segment of the weel.

Part 5135cx1 specific: Rember the center is sitting tight on axle. You need to leverage opposite sides equaly.

# Answer
> 3 votes
**FOLLOW UP POSTED AS AN ANSWER**

So, I managed to disassemble the wheel axle from the gear axle, which show what I was expecting, a broken piece in the freewheel.

As my question is on how to disassemble the wheel itself @Rin Rio-Oki answer is the correct one.

A picture is worth a thousand words so put picture ...

The wheel axle is simply force in the gear axle, so simply by pulling firmly but carefully disassemble both.

The small teeth in the wheel axle interact with the 4 white teeth of the gear axle to create a freewheel, and that's one of those that is broken in my case and that explain the slipping.

Note that I don't know what could have caused that teeth to get broken.

**COMMENT**

I solved the problem by drilling a small hole and putting a piece of copper from an electric wire (without the insulation, only the copper) and twisting it at both ends. However the solution of @Greg Dubicki is cleaner. It would be interesting to see if we can redo the part on a 3D printer.

Also note that there was a discount price on Duplo Locomotive a few weeks after the issue, so I also bought a new one ....

# Answer
> 2 votes
This is more of a follow up to the HpTerm's **"FOLLOW UP POSTED AS AN ANSWER"**:

Firstly I did manage to disassemble the wheels pretty easily. Similarly to Murder.exe's answer I did push the screwdriver in between the rubber part and top (side) part of the wheel. However I did not use a 2nd screwdriver - I just slowly pushed the external part of the wheel away from the internal with the 1st screwdriver. I didn't make any photos as I had to quickly put my kid to sleep though. :P I will add them here on another day.

Secondly in one of the wheels an EXACTLY the same breakage happened as for HpTerm. What I did to fix it is the following:

1. I glued the broken part back into its original place with an instant glue.
2. I used a small rubber band to protect the part from breaking again (I hope) by putting it around broken part like this:

I had this rubber band from a new set of tools that I just opened - the tweezers there were blocked from opening with such a thing.

My original plan was to put this band AROUND the whole light plastic part but it wasn't big enough.. However when I put the axle through the band it did spread and looked pretty solid.

So far we have just made a 3-minute test but for now the results are great - the train is not slipping at all anymore. \O/

I will keep you posted how it hold up after A LOT of playing that will happen soon over Christmas. :)

# Answer
> 1 votes
Fixed sliding wheels by add rubber on and tie it few times. I hope engine will not burn too fast.

# Answer
> 1 votes
The issue is indeed with insufficient friction. I have managed to fix it. I used the same rubber band idea. As I did not have a rubber band at hand I used a random piece of thin-ish rubber like material and glued it around cogwheel. Works like a charm - no more slipping (for now).

Disassembling rear wheel is very simple. I just pried open one side with a knife (not cutting, just getting a thin thing in to pry it open). Then I put a small screwdriver there to hold it open and worked the other side of wheel the same way until it popped open.

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Tags: trains, duplo, disassembly
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# Question
Title: What is the dimensions of lego spike motor?
Any Ideas on what is the dimensions of this motor, and the holes and space between them?

# Answer
> -1 votes
SPIKE M: 2.38 x 3.7 x 7.88 cm

SPIKE L: 8 x 4 x 4 cm

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Tags: motor, powered-up, spike-prime, lego-dimensions
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# Question
Title: Who is this Daft Punk looking character?
I found this minifig on the ground in front of my house the other day.

Who is that and what set is it from?

A description of their features:

* Big, unruly black hair
* Golden “cyber goggles” that look like an amp level display
* Golden jacket that’s open and displays a silver body with abs
* USB cable and golden music note pendant around neck
* Silver hands
* Black legs
* Silver circuit designs on jacket and legs
* Crown-and-music-note logo on the back of jacket
* Backside of the head: goggles feature a connector

# Answer
> 7 votes
This is from 43107: HipHop Robot BeatBox

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Tags: minifigures, minifigure-identification
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# Question
Title: What is this transparent round "plate" brick with wiring inside?
I bought a crate of Lego's from a flea market, and it has this strange block inside it. It's a transparent blue color, round, and somewhat thick. It seems to be a single piece, I can't find anywhere to separate it. It has wiring inside of an unknown purpose, and I can't see anywhere to connect to the wiring, so I am assuming it's some kind of wireless thing, but I can't imagine to what end. There are at least 3 of them that I have found so far, and they all have different numbers on them - `40R5`, `30R5`, `16R5`, and some smaller numbers that I couldn't quite make out. There is a shallow circle hole on the bottom, but it's just barely too small for a normal brick "dot" to fit into.

I'm curious what these are for, and what set they might have come with.

# Answer
> 8 votes
After posting, I was finally able to manipulate the image enough to get the right part number (or part of a part number) and found out that it is 18602c01. It's a generic gadget base. This base is part of a LEGO Dimensions video game which had different characters, and you could put the unique base into a Lego Dimensions Toy Pad that would detect which character it was (hence the wireless stuff inside). You could then play as that character in the video game.

I'm assuming the other larger lettering (`30R5`, etc) are designations indicating the character the base belongs to.

As pointed out by Alex in the comments, the `30R5` etc. codes are manufacture dates.

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Can anyone identify this 4 x 4 round LEGO modified part?
This is a 4 x 4 round piece with a 1 x 2 studs on top. Anyone know the part #?

# Answer
> 4 votes
This is part 30209 - Bracket 1 x 2 - 4 x 4 Round Dish.

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Can anyone identify this set for me? It's a mech with white, grey and gold elements
What LEGO set is this? I am trying to find its manual/instruction.

# Answer
This is from Titan Mech Battle (70737). Identified by unique tile with sticker. Instructions can be downloaded directly from LEGO Service.
> 3 votes

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Tags: set-identification, ninjago
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title: Height of floral sets

text:
# Question
Title: Height of floral sets
I'm planning my decor. To that end, I need to the approximate height of a few sets:

# Answer
> 9 votes
From the pages you linked, under "specifications":

## 10311 Orchid

> Dimensions – This buildable model measures over 15 in. (39 cm) high, 11.5 in. (30 cm) wide and 9.5 in. (24 cm) deep

## 10289 Bird of Paradise

> As a guide, the tallest leaf limb measures over 18 in. (46 cm) high and the flowerpot measures over 5 in. (13 cm) in diameter.

## 10313 Wildflower Bouquet

> Dimensions – The stems come in a variety of lengths. As a guide, the ‘larkspur’, with its straight stem, measures over 18 in. (47 cm) tall

## 10280 Flower Bouquet

> The stems come in a variety of lengths. As a guide, the ‘snapdragon’, with its straight stem, measures over 14 in. (36 cm) high.

Don't forget that putting the bouquets in a vase adds a little bit of height, while at the same time lowering the height a little because the flowers spread out.

Generally it's probably easiest to assume ~50cm for each set when planning.

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Tags: sets, size
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title: What set is this?

text:
# Question
Title: What set is this?
I picked these up at a local thrift store, all in their original packaging. Hoping it’s a complete set.

Number on it says: 135149 No real unique bricks to report and there are no bag numbers on it.

# Answer
These look like bags from Bricks and Animals (11011-1):

If those are the only bags you have, it isn't complete, but you may still be able to build some of the models. The bags are sorted by color, and some of the models appear to use the colors that you have.

The instructions are available via Rebrickable.
> 3 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Can the DUPLO My First Number Train fit on DUPLO tracks?
I have the My First Number Train set, pictured here. This set did not come with track. Other sets, such as My First Train set, pictured here, do come with track, but the wheels look different. Can this kind of track fit the My First Number Train set? Or is there a different kind of track that can be used with the My First Number Train set?

# Answer
> 7 votes
Not really - the wheels on "My First Number Train" are the DUPLO car wheels, so they will just about fit on straight and curved track, but they won't work on the points and bridge sections.

There isn't any track designed for the wheels in "My First Number Train", that's just designed to pulled around on the floor.

You can just about see a chassis in this picture - they are about to crash at the points:

# Answer
> -1 votes
Yes, the number train will fit on the "My First Train Set" track. But only because it doesn't include any points, crossings or bridges.

The duplo track generally guides the wheels from the inside; the insides of the wheels are the same distance apart on both trains. However the number train wheels are wider (the same as many other duplo vehicles) and won't fit through sections of track that aren't just straight or simple curves.

You can see from the picture that the wheels work fine, but overhang the sides of the track.

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Tags: trains, compatibility, duplo
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# Question
Title: Looking for instructions to a set with many different sized round cogwheels
This bag came in a large box but the bags didn’t have identifiers ie: 1,2,3 and we lost the instructions. Two small bags came inside the larger bag.

# Answer
> 1 votes
This is set 11019-1 Bricks and Functions

Key parts:

14t plate gear (35446) in Lime

Turntable Base (61485) in White

and a 1x4 gear rack (3743 or 4296) in White

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Tags: set-identification, instructions
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# Question
Title: In what ways are LEGO and Megabloks incompatible?
I know that the basic bricks of LEGO and Megabloks fit together, but was wondering if other elements do too.

Such as:

* Plates
* Rods (Ones Minifigures can hold, not Technic)
* Right angle (such as Erling)
* Duplo bricks

# Answer
> 22 votes
The problem is that while in general MegaBloks bricks fit with LEGO bricks, the quality control on the MB bricks seems to be much lower\*, so the bricks/studs and holes are not always the same size.

As an example, I recently acquired a MB HALO Covenant Banshee ship for my son, and can safely show that:

The holes in studs do not readily accept rods (in this case a "wand" element from a Harry Potter set, but identical to the lightsaber pieces, etc.) - they are generally too small, however I could just force it into the front of the "hollow frying pan" type piece that Harry's holding. Conversely the handle is thinner than the wand, so it fits into the hollow MB studs fairly well, but is very loose in the LEGO cone.

With Erling bricks your mileage may vary but shound be ok, however you'd be better off with the newer 1x1 brick with knob(s), as then there's no ridge to fit within.

Plates and Tiles seem to fit fairly well - although generally the grip will be looser if you put LEGO elements on top of MB ones - the studs seem slightly smaller.

DUPLO Bricks seem to fit as well as they do with LEGO bricks:

\*I state that the quality control seems to be lower as in this set for example, there are supposed to be 4 1x1 Round Plates (you can just see a transparent blue one behind Harry). Of the 10 or 12 that were supplied(!), none of them were tight enough to stay on the angular brick you can see on the wing edge (the one that just about stays on the other side falls off this one).

# Answer
> 11 votes
My mother in law thought a set of MegaBlok duplo sized sets would be a great present, and while there are some fun elements in the set, overall the real Duplos are better quality, to the point we decided to sort out the sets and keep the brands separated. At first we had them mixed together, but the MegaBlok ones seem to be more flexible (perhaps thinner brick walls?) and not stay together quite as tightly. (For that matter, the Tyco bricks didn't stay together as well either...)

One of the most jarring differences, aside from quality, is the people figures. The legs on duplo people are designed such that they can be standing or seated on top of a brick. Megablok people do not have gaps on the back of their legs for seating them on blocks, they can only stand. For this reason, all the Megablock vehicles and benches and whatnot have flat bottoms on the part where the characters sit. So Megablok characters don't "play well" in real Duplo brand vehicles, chairs, and so forth. And the duplo figures don't play well on the swings and so forth that are designed for Megablok characters.

Also, while Duplos are usually for ages 1.5+, an equivalent Megablok set often is 3+ because it contains half-bricks and half-height half bricks, teeny tiny birds and squirrels, and so forth that are all choking hazards, so it was a lot more work to figure out which pieces need to be pulled out of the set to make sure baby brother doesn't choke on the pieces.

Additionally, while newer legos for older kids do sometimes contain sticker kits (grumble), usually the Duplo products have the designs printed directly on the bricks, so they are fully immersion washable if they get spit up on by a younger sibling and safe to take in the tub at bath time. The megablok ones? Every single patterned element except people characters require a sticker you have to apply yourself. You can't wash them or take them in the bathtub without ruining the stickers.

# Answer
> 6 votes
I can't actually offer any thoughts regarding anything but actual bricks, as the first - and only - megabloks purchase I ever made only contained bricks. While my experience with megablocks is limited, I feel confident in offering this advice: Don't do it.

My motivation for "playing" with Lego-style blocks at age 29 is probably pretty unique - I use them to make floor toys for my sugar gliders to play on (meaning I have no interest in figures and many other elements). For my first block purchase, I bought Megablocks because they were cheaper and I foolishly assumed they'd get the job done... let's just say, lesson learned! I tried to build a simple "house" that was perhaps 5''x5'' and by the time I'd built 3-4 layers of overlapping 2x4 blocks, my creation was falling apart faster than I could build it. They didn't stick together at ALL - the quality was ridiculously poor. Suffice it to say, I returned the bricks for a refund.

Since then, I've stuck to Lego Duplo blocks and not only can I actually build things without them falling apart, my creations easily withstand a lot of jostling. I can only assume that mixing megabloks with Duplo blocks would weaken the integrity of your Duplo creations.

# Answer
> 4 votes
I can only provide info for basic bricks. I am an avid fan of both Lego and mega bloks. That being said there is a large difference in quality in mega bloks sets older then 2010. The more modern sets have increased in quality by fare and I have not had a problem with them falling apart since. Lego and mega bloks bricks fit well together if the mega blocks are of modern age. Older bricks (for example the banshi that was mentioned above) will have a much harder time holding together capability wise. The rods as far as I know of I believe the mega bloks rods are slightly smaller then Lego allowing them to slide in normally easier than Lego's rods (don't know why but my Lego rods always get stuck in the holes and don't come out without extreme force); same goes for accessories by the way. The figures are not compatible with swapping accessories or rods, (megas rods being smaller) Lego accessories can actually break the older mega bloks figures hands meanwhile vise versa mega bloks accessories will normally fall out of Lego figures hands.

# Answer
> 2 votes
15 years ago, I had a Megabloks set (some kind of a truck) that had two baseplates that were thicker than standard (1.5 of regular plate, so two stacked are same height as a brick).

# Answer
> -2 votes
There are 2 types of Duplo size: one type has 1 big stud instead of 4, so it only fits Lego if the MegaBlock is put on top - or when using an adapter piece. The other compatible type has taller studs, which is fine. As for Micro, which is the System Lego size, the red colored pieces are dull, the blue ones are better. I did have problem with one 2×4 to hold 1×2's below.

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Tags: clone-brands, compatibility, 3rd-party
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# Question
Title: Found bags of LEGO bricks at a thrift store. What sets they belong to?
I am wondering if anyone can try and help me identify these bags. I picked them up a thrift store and all my googling has come up empty handed

This is the first bag

Second one

Third one

Then there was this small one with no identifications on it

And finally these loose pieces

# Answer
Those all look like parts from set 31109 Pirate Ship released in 2020 :

Note this assumes the colors aren't accurately represented in your pictures. Eg. the 10 loose pieces appear to be reddish brown from your picture, but would be medium nougat in the set. Additionally, dark azure parts look like regular blue, yellow like pearl gold, pearl gold like brown, dark bluish gray like black, etc. in your pictures. Ie. all colors appear darker in your pictures than they'd be in real life.
> 2 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: What is the total number of sets that LEGO has released?
I am wondering how many LEGO sets that LEGO has released in total in their 85+ years of business. To clarify I am only looking for sets that use plastic blocks like the ones we have today, not the very early sets. This would probably be sets from after 1950 as they started producing the interlocking plastic brick in 1949.

# Answer
> 12 votes
It might be impossible to give the precise number simply because some older sets are yet to be found and new ones are being added with a slight delay.

These three are major websites having the most details about sets:

1. Bricklink catalog has 15824 sets in its catalog.
2. Brickset has 16378 sets.
3. Rebrickable has 15432 sets.

As you can see numbers are similar, yet differ slightly. This is due the fact that each site has its own set of rules. For example, it may treat some sets as accessories, thus including/excluding them.

**Note**. All numbers are up-to-date as of the time of this answer.

# Answer
> 0 votes
There is over 2000 Lego sets. As a former employee that has been working in the design department since 2006.

# Answer
> -1 votes
I saw in a Google search that an online database had about 20,000 Lego sets.

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Tags: sets, lego-group
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title: Opaque bricks with no center post?

text:
# Question
Title: Opaque bricks with no center post?
What is the purpose of 1x2 red bricks without a post inside the brick? I know they often leave out the middle post on transparent bricks to make them look more window-like, but what about in opaque pieces? I have a few from bricks of this type that are probably from sets from the 70s/80s but I'm not sure what sets they came from, let alone what clever things you can do with them that you can't do with a regular brick of the same size.

# Answer
I'd wager it was mostly to save plastic. Many of the 1x family of bricks used to come with far fewer posts inside, like so: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=crssprt02 but notice they quit making that style in 1969.
> 5 votes

# Answer
A comment on this thread got me headed in the right direction of research. Before 1958, *none* of the bricks had tubes inside, though as gev points out, some of the larger bricks had horizontal cross beams. In 1958, Lego applied for a patent for a new design with center posts in the bricks, which allowed for a tighter more stable fit. So, the 1x2 brick without a post is likely a very old lego, and not a specialty piece of some sort. This was certainly not an effort to save plastic, but simply the idea of having a center post hadn't been created yet.
> 3 votes

# Answer
There might be several reasons for leaving out the central post:

* For bricks with a cut-out for wires passing through.
* To be able to attach a 1×1 piece underneath centrally.I
* Also enables a 1mm shorter 1×3 Modulex brick to fit underneath postless 1×2.

Lego didn't add the posts when the 2×X bricks got their tubes, and there are still no posts with some having end pips.

Photo: church with light fitted inside, œlephant with bottom 2 of 1×1 bricks central on trunk, a few 1×3 Modulex, 1 with System 1×2 on top.

History, pat. pend. period started with tubes in 2×2 or more in 1958. Pips hidden away on a corner, then bricks got end pips, then pat. pend. obscured till stud pips used.
> -1 votes

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Tags: piece-information
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title: Which of these parts are LEGO elements?

text:
# Question
Title: Which of these parts are LEGO elements?
I have saved up quite a few pieces of "plastic" which I am unsure about - can you tell me which ones are LEGO - I've included plates and a figure for scale.

# Answer
* **The tools** obviously have different handle widths. If they do not properly fit into a minifigure’s hand, they are almost certainly not Lego. If they do, they are compatible for most practical purposes, even if they are clones.
* **The grey, star-like thing** is a K’nex connector.
* **The white post** looks like a Support 2×2×7 Lamp Post.
* **The left and right part in the bottom image** are nothing I can identify. But they do not look like Lego as their elements do not match the standard Lego scales as seen by the base plate.
> 7 votes

# Answer
The second gray piece in the bottom image (from left to right) is a TENTE piece.

Check this example set (look at the feet of the robot)
> 8 votes

# Answer
Only two LEGO tools are present in the upper image, the Fabuland shovel and the Fabuland pipe wrench \- other five are Playmobil (1st, 2nd, 5th and 7th in upper row and the rifle in lower row) - the rest, I really don't know - I can't make out the white stick, if it's a LEGO hose

Bottom image seems to have been answered suffiently.
> 3 votes

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: What is the largest number of pieces in a set for LEGO, Nanoblock, or any other brand?
What is the largest number of pieces in a set for LEGO, Nanoblock, or any other brand?

I recently bought a 6800-piece LOZ Block set (Chinese Nanoblock knockoff). I was wondering if there are sets in any block size or brand that have more pieces than that.

# Answer
The LEGO World Map set has 11695 pieces.
> 6 votes

# Answer
Brickset has a query for sets with most pieces: brickset.com/sets/query-45

Top of the list is Taj Mahal with 5922 pieces.
> 3 votes

# Answer
The obvious update for this question is the LEGO 75192 Millenium Falcon with 7,541 pieces.

I wonder whether LEGO has plans for a 10k-piece set, maybe also the Millenium Falcon :)
> 2 votes

# Answer
Largest Lego set apart from the world map is the 10,000 piece Eiffel Tower (technically 10,001 but that includes a brick separator). Followed by 9090 (Inc 3 brick separators) for the Titanic and 9036 (Inc 1 brick separator) for the Colosseum.
> 1 votes

# Answer
TIWI Fantasy Castle = 6850 nano blocks. (Amazon)

Magic School, Nano Brick Harry Potter style castle - 6369. (eBay) I found Swan Stone Castle on eBay = 11810.
> 1 votes

# Answer
Certainly not from the Lego camp, in terms of commercially released consumer sets. As far as I can remember, the Taj Mahal from 2008/9 had something around 5900 pieces, and is no longer available to buy new.
> 0 votes

# Answer
Here is Koyae European Castle (Amazon URL) set that supposedly has 11,810 pieces. There are many clone sets that are advertised with many more pieces than they have, this one might be real according to the size of the build.
> 0 votes

# Answer
There is a 11,800 nanoblock building Neuschwanstein Castle.
> -1 votes

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Tags: building, shopping, set-identification, clone-brands, set-database
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# Question
Title: Which parts do not have the LEGO logo stamped on them?
As noted in this question, there are *very* few parts that do not have the LEGO logo included during manufacture. But which parts are those? Is there any semi-exhaustive list? Does bricklink note this sort of thing anywhere?

I'm mostly curious from the perspective of someone who would be looking through bulk LEGO and trying to figure out whether they got real LEGO or clones. Finding the logo is usually so reassuring. I'm not worried about really ancient rare parts, but if you want to be that thorough don't let me discourage you. Either way, some sort of list of parts that somebody should expect to be legitimate LEGO, but not worry about the lack of a logo, would be great.

# Answer
> 6 votes
I certainly don't have a list, but I came across Technic, Steering Arm with 4 Ball Joints with Black Wheel Hub (x872 / x873) part several times. I heard stories of Bricklink sellers being accused of shipping knock-off copy of this part (since it is a little pricey) due to absence of LEGO logo, despite them being legit items.

# Answer
> 6 votes
Another example is this watering can. The green one we have is from Fabuland. In fact several other Fabuland parts here also lack the logo - this bench for example. I wonder if in the 70s/early 80s, when Fabuland was designed, Lego were less concerned about putting their name on every last part.

Other parts I've seen without a logo tend to have some of the following features:

* no or hollow studs on top
* curved
* small
* translucent

This electric light bulb cover ticks all of those boxes

# Answer
> 6 votes
Are both of these fences made by Lego?
This is another example. This fence piece came in logo and non-logo versions in the 1970's.

# Answer
> 4 votes
The Plant, Tree Palm Top part has had revisions where it was not marked with the LEGO logo, as we have learned in this QA thread.

# Answer
> 3 votes

# Answer
> 2 votes
The chrome gold rings for the Lotr and Hobbit sets don't seem to have any logo or text either

# Answer
> 1 votes
The maxifigure heads from the 70s/early 80s don't have a logo anywhere, even though they have a solid stud on the head and two more solid studs for the ears. The hair and hat pieces don't have a logo either, just a number on the underside in the middle.

I found several more examples of no logos in my minifigure accessories collection:

Popsicle (no text anywhere)

Microphone (number on the end of the pole)

Fairy Wand (no text anywhere)

Tomahawk (number on the pole just below the axe head, and on the top of the axe head, copyright logo on the base of the axe head)

Key (copyright logo on the handle)

I thought that maybe the key doesn't have the logo while the sprue does, but I checked from my collection and the sprue doesn't have a logo either, just numbers on the long flat bit.

All the minifig accessory examples I gave have a round pole area, so it looked like TLG doesn't like putting logos on curved parts. But then I found a syringe, and it has a logo on the round handle, even though all my examples without a logo also have a round handle!

# Answer
> 1 votes
I can't find LEGO mark anywhere on the clear visors that spaceman wear. I first noticed when checking a red visor for Ninjago Mr E. Then looked at my extra visors: no matter the color none have LEGO or anything stamped on them.

# Answer
> 0 votes
Shields from the Black Falcons from around 1986 have no LEGO logo (as well as the head accessories).

# Answer
> -4 votes
food items, tiles, most minifigure weapons, accessories and hair.

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Tags: part-identification, history
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# Question
Title: PoweredUp App for iOS: How to import/export my Project?
I'm running the official PoweredUp app (3.8.0) for iOS on a full-updated iPad Mini (iOS 15.4.1), and have created a custom Project (i.e. collection of blocks) in the App.

I cannot find an App option to export the Project.

Also I can't find the App's project files in the iPad Files App, or in Mac Finder when the iPad is connected via USB to the Mac.

I can do a full iPad backup to the Mac but I'm looking for a more targeted solution, for example to export the Project from the iPad and import it into another iPad or iPhone running the PoweredUp App.

I tried googling -- the only posted solutions refer to the Android App.

# Answer
You can't officially. Screenshot your project.
> 1 votes

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Tags: powered-up, ios
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# Question
Title: Identification of Lego bags with large tan plates, white cylindrical panels, palm leaves and yellow ladders
Can someone help me to identify which set is this from?

# Answer
Based on Lime plant leaves 6x5 Swordleaf, Tan plate 8x8, Tan plate round half 3x6 with 1x2 cutout, and Trans-light blue panel 3x4x6 Curved top, this set has to be 41374-1 Andrea's Pool Party.
> 5 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: How do I export LEGO Mindstorms programs on the Chromebook
There is now a Chromebook app to program LEGO Mindstorms. I have multiple kids collaborating on programs for FIRST LEGO League. Can they share the program between their Chromebooks? I don't see a way to import or export the programs in the app.

# Answer
The answer from 2017 was correct at the time. Since then, "LEGO MINDSTORMS Education EV3" software has been replaced by "EV3 Classroom" which does not have the ability to share anything and this will not be fixed. LEGO customer service has confirmed this for me via email:

> With MINDSTORMS EV3 being officially retired, EV3 Classroom will not be updated to have this feature for the Chromebook or Android version.
>
> For advanced users with *root access* to their Android devices: The project files can be found in #/data/data/com.lego.education.ev3classroom/files/projects
>
> Workaround: Screenshots
>
> ```
>    ○ Press CTRL+ALT+Capture key at the same time
>    Take a screen shot of their code
>    ○ This can then be saved to an email folder or a google drive
>
> ```
>
> The students would still have to recreate the code each time but at least they would have that as a reference when doing so!

It's extremely unlikely that any school district would be willing to let students have root access, so it's now screenshots or switching to a real computer. The Windows version of EV3 Classroom does allow sharing.

Very disappointing, LEGO.
> 3 votes

# Answer
One of my students figured it out. I have highlighted the buttons in the picture below. The symbol with the arrow pointing to the box is import. The send symbol allows you to email or store the file on Google Drive.
> 2 votes

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms
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# Question
Title: How much tension can I expect to get out of a LEGO chains before it starts to give way?
Assuming I am using the Technic Chain Links to make a chain, how much force can I expect to be able to get out of the chain before it breaks?

Suppose I am using a 16-tooth gear to directly drive a 24-tooth gear and have it at the optimal tension for a short distance

And when it does reach its limit, will it break or will the links just snap undone?

P.S. - I don't currently own any of these pieces, and would like to get a rough idea first before I buy any and start playing with them - I am hoping to get a considerably larger amount of force from then than a rubber band before it starts to slip, say the full stall power of a PF M motor.

EDIT: theoretical test methodology: Starting from Philo's motor comp, I would pick a PF motor that I had (say a PF M motor), and gear it up (so that it spins fast), say by 1:3 with a 24-tooth driving an 8-tooth - after that, I would put another 24-tooth on the same axle as the 8-tooth, and place the chain on it - then put another 24 such that the chain lands on it, and lock the last 24t gear's axle such that it does not move (perhaps the last 24t gear can be a clutch gear). Then turn on the motor and see if it holds - assuming it does, I would know that the chain can handle at least 1/3 (gearing) 11 N.cm (PF M stall torque from Philo) - from then I would change the gearing, perhaps with a 20-tooth and 12-tooth, or even 1:1 depending on how it seems to fare and repeat the "test" until it does break. If the 24-tooth clutch gear starts to spin, I would briefly lock it in place with my hands to get an accurate measure.

# Answer
> 4 votes
**TL;DR** (or *Executive Summary*, if you like): **Between 620 and 1420 gram**s of mass (6.2 - 14.2 Newtons of force), depending on the pieces and their age.

## **Long version**

So I decided to give this a shot and tried to measure the tensile strength of the technic chain links by building a homemade LEGO tensile tester machine and using chain link pieces from a new copy of 42107: Ducati Panigale V4 R for the simple chain and 42148: Snow Groomer for the tread elements \- both received as part of the 2023 Q2 Activity Support initiative.

For the first attempt, I recreated the frame from my similar project with the train magnets, but a lot sturdier, as the chain links are obviously stronger than the magnets. The chain links were attached to the frame and the variable weight basket using gardening wire:

(pay no attention to the unfinished lower arches, they turned out to be totally unnecessary and I forgot to remove the partially built and still unconnected one before taking the photo)

Then I added batteries to the basket until the chain broke and measured the weight of the basket as it was at the moment...:

... at least, that was the plan. Sadly the basket was not heavy enough to break the chain even when filled to the brim and with additional batteries piled on the top. So a rework was necessary to accommodate a larger weight.

The next iteration included a 1.5-liter plastic bottle as the container for the variable weight, attached by the same wire loop to the chain link piece:

But with this approach, the measured breaking force would refer to the weakest of all the link pairs in the chain - while that could be an interesting measurement as well, I was mainly focused on one individual piece. Another rework resulted in the following contraption:

In this closeup, the chain attachment is visible along with the funnel used to fill the bottle gradually:

Using this setup the first real values were successfully acquired by filling the bottle until the chain broke, taking note of the weight displayed by the kitchen scale, replacing the link in the broken half, emptying the bottle and starting anew: (all values in grams)

* 940
* 940
* 940
* 860
* 980
* 920
* 800
* 910
* 870
* 870
* 860
* 710

If you noticed something, congratulations - I didn't, at least not at this point. So I turned to the sidequest: checking if the tracked link variant is measurably different.

Since those links are a lot wider, the attachment to the beam needed to be reworked again in order to access the chain for reattaching it after each breakage:

This setup has rendered the following measurements:

* 620
* 750

At this point I realized my mistake: after every breakage, I replaced the center piece of the three-link chain, that wasn't attached to the wire loops. But the end pieces were the same since the beginning, and thus were subjected to the wear and fatigue from countless measurements and failed tests. Their interfaces began to wear down, as it is (at least in hindsight) obvious from the first published data sequence, whose elements do indeed show a steadily declining trend:

So for the final rework, the wire loops became a lot simpler and messier, to facilitate the quick exchange of both participating links (only two this time!) against new ones.

Using two brand-new link pieces for all the following measurements, these data were gathered with the simple pieces:

* 1180
* 1150
* 1100
* 1290
* 1080

And with the track pieces:

* 1280
* 1420
* 1360
* 1400
* 1350

In conclusion, the tracked pieces are on average really a bit stronger than the simple ones (1362 grams vs. 1160, for a difference of ~15%), but both lose a lot of their strength (up to half of the new value!) when repeatedly forced to their breaking point. Even though there is no visible deterioration and the tests certainly haven't led to any destructive failures (apart from a few drops of spilled water).

## Notes

The potential difference in strength resulting from turning the links "inside out" as recommended by AaronD in the comments became irrelevant by the test setup which uses a straight stretch of chain. It could be interesting once the chain is wrapped around a gear, but here I tried to get the cleanest measurement with the least amount of variables.

The kitchen scale used still is only accurate to about ~10 grams.

In the end, only 5-5 measurements were made with each link type using the final testing protocol - more measurements could refine the average and might introduce new extremes.

# Answer
> -6 votes
Simply test it, then divide the force by 2 in order to stay the safe side.

---
Tags: piece-information, technic, mechanical
---


# Question
Title: Are there bricks sized between LEGO (classic) and DUPLO?
I am wondering whether there is a brick-type construction block toys on the market that would be sized between the LEGO (classic/original) and LEGO DUPLO. More specifically I am looking for a 3/4 ratio of DUPLO size.

The fact is that DUPLO is 8x the volume of the "classic" LEGO bricks. Measured in 2D dimensions, 4x4 classical LEGO "units" are the same width as a single 2x2 DUPLO brick. Also DUPLO has double brick height than classic. I wonder whether there is a brick where a single 2x2 brick would have the size of 3x3 LEGO classic units and also would have 3/4 of DUPLO height.

# Answer
> 6 votes
One Single Stud Lego brick is 9.6mm H by 8mm W (technically 7.8mm). So at the scale you are looking for we're searching for single stud bricks that are 28.8mm H by 24mm W.

After an extensive search among multiple Lego-style building block manufacturers, I can't find any that use the dimensions we're looking for. Here is a list of companies I searched:

Best-Lock, Buggi, Built To Rule, Ciddi Toys, Hubelino, Intelliblox, Kre-O, Loc-Bloc, K'Nex, Mega Bloks, NanoBlock, Playbig Bloxx, Q-Bricks, Super Blox, Tente, Super Blocks, Unico

The Best-Lock Juniors were probably the closest I could find but the proportions are still off and I think 2010 was the last time the sold a Juniors set.

One of the biggest selling points most all of these companies made was that their blocks were compatible with other building systems (ie Legos) so chances are they wouldn't deviate from the standard sizes that Lego produces with their own special sizes.

# Answer
> 3 votes
While I don't know the answer for sure, as I don't know every construction brand out there, I see enough problems with the brick size you mention that I doubt anyone would manufacture it.

Children older than 5 all the way to adults prefer regular LEGO elements because they are big enough to create impressive models, yet small enough to add intricate details. They are also just the right size that most children and adults can easily manipulate with their fingers (compared to, for example, NanoBlok pieces that many adults find frustratingly small).

The larger LEGO DUPLO bricks are specifically sized for young children 1 1/2 to 5 years old. They are carefully sized to make sure young children won't be able to choke on them. The larger pieces also allow young children with less coordination to work with, and gradually improve their skills. Also, DUPLO and LEGO bricks are compatible in more than just they way they can stack on each other. For example, the holes inside DUPLO studs can accommodate certain regular LEGO pieces.

There is a lot of science and research that go into making LEGO elements; they must be age-appropriate in both theme and difficulty, they must be safe for a particular age-range, and they much fit into the LEGO system by being compatible with other pieces. The brick size you are talking about would be too small for young children (and thus not safe), and too big for older kids and adults. If there is no target market, why would anyone make such bricks?

The only scenario I could think of is perhaps an old brand from the 1950s-1970s, when LEGO type construction toys were just starting out and manufacturers were experimenting with different sizes and ratios. Once the leader emerged (LEGO), it made more sense for similar brands to align their products with LEGO, or differentiate themselves with a completely unique system (i.e. K'NEX, Lincoln Logs, etc.). What you are asking for is somewhere in between (still LEGO compatible but not quite), which would make little sense businesswise.

# Answer
> -4 votes
There is the Lego System at 8mm stud width, and there are others at half the size (4mm) called Nanoblocks. Between the two we have Modulex at 5mm. Now 3 studs fit underneath of 2 studs in System, inside, at a ratio of 2:3. Now there is a 10mm size, 2× Modulex should fit to Duplo in the same way, but for helping with maths, only 1×1 size. I asked question about Kids' building blocks on this website, they = between size.

---
Tags: compatibility, duplo, size
---


# Question
Title: Is it possible to re-flash the LEGO Spike Prime Hub with Mindstorms Robot Inventor Hub Firmware while retaining all functionality? And if so, how?
Unfortunately, LEGO has recently announced that after 24 years, the Mindstorms line of Robotics Kits is officially being discontinued at the end of this year. For this reason, the 51515 Robot Inventor Sets will soon no longer be available. However, LEGO has confirmed that the Spike Prime kits, or the educational counterpart(s) of the Robot Inventor, will continue to be produced. Therefore, I might have to start buying these kits in lieu of the Robot Inventor kits as demand for the retired kits begins to rise. The good news is that the Mindstorms Robot Inventor and Spike Prime kits both share identical hardware, the only difference being the colors and assortment of elements, both of which can be easily circumvented.

However, the Robot Inventor software has several additional features that Spike Prime does not, most notably the recently-enabled Bluetooth Low-Energy (BLE) Daisy-Chaining, or Hub-2-Hub Communication. I currently have a Robot Inventor Hub with an up-to-date version of its firmware installed, and I am strongly considering buying a Spike Prime Hub to use with it for larger models. Because it is currently not yet possible to directly program the Spike Prime Hub with the Robot Inventor Software, I would like to ask if it is possible to re-flash the Spike Prime Hub with the Robot Inventor Hub's firmware so that the Spike Prime Hub will behave the exact same way as a Robot Inventor Hub while retaining the same functionality (especially the ability of Hub-2-Hub communication) of a Robot Inventor Hub. And if so, how?

# Answer
Yes, this is possible. Just connect the SPIKE Prime hub to the MINDSTORMS Robot Inventor App. The app will tell you that the firmware needs to be updated. Follow the instructions in the app to update the firmware. Then use the Robot Inventor app to write the programs for the SPIKE Prime hub.

Since the hubs are virtually identical, it also works the other way around. The MINDSTORMS Robot Inventor hub can be used with the SPIKE Prime app.
> 8 votes

# Answer
There is no problem with switching between SPIKE Legacy and Mindstorms RI firmware.

**But ...**

Do not upgrade your firmware with the SPIKE 3 App. After you will not be able to use your hub with SPIKE 2 (Legacy) or Mindstorms RI app. The only simple solution for downgrade is: https://code.pybricks.com/

Moreover, Mindstorms RI Hubs (green hubs), are not compatible with the New SPIKE app (V3). It's not possible to update your Hub. For sure that's a business strategy.

So be careful with the new application/software.
> 3 votes

# Answer
If you have the SPIKE v3 firmware, in order to flash with Mindstorms RI firmware you need to downgrade SPIKE v3 to SPIKE v2 (Legacy) via this link: https://spikelegacy.legoeducation.com/hubdowngrade/#step-1

After the downgrade, you can proceed to the Mindstorms RI app to flash the hub with the Mindstorms RI firmware.
> 1 votes

---
Tags: technic, mindstorms, programming, education, spike-prime
---


# Question
Title: Help identifying set just with a bag of common bricks
I have a picture of this bag with LEGO bricks in it. Any idea what set this is?

# Answer
Based on the 6 x 12 tan plate and some of the other more basic elements, this appears to be a bag from Bricks and Houses (11008):

If this is the only bag you have, it isn't a complete set and you likely can't build any of the models from the instructions. This set is an assortment of basic elements, so you could still get some good free building value out of the parts you have.
> 3 votes

---
Tags: set-identification
---


title: Ninjago set identification

text:
# Question
Title: Ninjago set identification
I’m trying to identify a set to search for instructions. However all I know it is a Ninjago but cannot find the set on Google. It looks like a helicopter with out the blades on top. I am hoping someone might know what this is.

# Answer
The pieces you have are from Ronin R.E.X. (70735) set.

Instructions can be downloaded from LEGO Customer Service webpage.
> 3 votes

---
Tags: set-identification, ninjago
---


# Question
Title: Lego 42082 Rough Terrain Crane superstructure does not rotate easily when master selector is set to neutral
My son has been building the Lego 42082 crane and is on bag 9. I don't believe the central section is functioning properly as I believe the rings should turn much more easily by hand than ours does.

We just watched a video of someone operating this crane and they noted that when the super-structure selector or the master selector are set to neutral the superstructure (main section that sits on the crane base) can be easily rotated by hand. I have now seen this in other videos: even when the crane is partially built the main circular rings can spin easily.

Right from the time my son completed bag #2 we noticed the center solid black ring could not spin easily by hand. However if we were to spin the white gear on the bottom of the crane (I only see one white one), it would make the other gears nearby turn and would cause the black circular section on top to slowly spin. So we figured it was operating properly and that the motor would cause this all to turn. We now see videos showing the black rings should be much easier to turn by hand than ours does. When I turn it to the left it turns with light force. If I turn it to the right it requires more force to turn. But in both cases it is clearly not spinning easily enough.

We are on about bag 9 so I am not sure if the only issue is that it does not turn easily when in neutral, or if this means that this section will not turn at all with the motor. I am hoping to figure out how serious this issue is before going any further (is it likely to still function with the motor) and if anyone has a suggestion how to fix it so it can turn easily by hand.

# Answer
I have not built this set myself, however I went through instructions to understand your issue. Based on your description it seems to me that gear train used to rotate the top section is currently stopped/blocked and by applying force you are overcoming white gear's resistance, which is a clutch gear and is a safety feature.

There should be a lever (#3 below) on the other size of the model. Per my understanding it should be in neutral/central/top position to allow top section rotate freely. Any other position would engage gear train with motor and would not spin freely until you overcome resistance of clutch gear.
> 2 votes

---
Tags: technic, gears
---


# Question
Title: Problem with emulating EV3 brick via wifi
I'm trying to emulate Lego EV3 brick connection via wifi. First I found the repo and rewrote it a bit in C# so now I have this:
*LabVIEW.cs*

```
public class LabVIEW
{
    public string Serial { get; set; }
    public UInt16 Port { get; set; }
    public string? Name { get; set; }
    public string Protocol { get; set; }

    public LabVIEW()
    {
        Serial = "001612345678";
        Port = 5555;
        Name = "EV3-rcv";
        Protocol = "EV3";
    }

    public void SpawnConnectThread()
    {
        var udpSocket = new Socket(AddressFamily.InterNetwork, SocketType.Dgram, ProtocolType.Udp);
        var localIP = new IPEndPoint(IPAddress.Parse("0.0.0.0"), 0);
        udpSocket.Bind(localIP);
        udpSocket.ReceiveTimeout = 10000;
        udpSocket.EnableBroadcast = true;

        var task = Task.Run(() =>
        {
            var sendStr = string.Format(
                "Serial-Number: {0}\r\nPort: {1}\r\nName: {2}\r\nProtocol: {3}\r\n",
                Serial, Port, Name, Protocol
            );
            var remoteIP = new IPEndPoint(IPAddress.Parse("127.255.255.255"), 3015);
            Console.WriteLine(sendStr);
            while (true)
            {
                byte[] toSend = Encoding.UTF8.GetBytes(sendStr);
                int sentAmount = udpSocket.SendTo(toSend, remoteIP);
                if (sentAmount == toSend.Length)
                {
                    byte[] recvBuff = new byte[64];
                    udpSocket.Receive(recvBuff, 0, 64, SocketFlags.None, out SocketError err);
                    if (err != SocketError.Success)
                    {
                        continue;
                    }

                    Console.WriteLine(Encoding.UTF8.GetString(recvBuff));
                }
                Task.Delay(5000);
            }
        });
    }

    public Socket Connect()
    {
        IPAddress localAddr = IPAddress.Parse("127.0.0.1");
        TcpListener server = new TcpListener(localAddr, Port);
        server.Start();
        var sct = server.AcceptSocket();
        byte[] recvBuff = new byte[64];
        sct.Receive(recvBuff);
        Console.WriteLine(Encoding.UTF8.GetString(recvBuff));
        byte[] toSend = Encoding.UTF8.GetBytes("Accept:EV340\r\n\r\n");
        sct.Send(toSend);
        return sct;
    }
}

```

And the *Main* part:

```
public class Program
{
    public static void Main(string[] args)
    {
        var lv = new LabVIEW();
        lv.SpawnConnectThread();
        var conn = lv.Connect();

        while (true)
        {
            if (conn.Available > 0)
            {
                byte[] buff = conn.ReadLVReply();
                Console.WriteLine(ByteArrayToString(buff));
                if (buff[4] == 0x80 || buff[4] == 0x81)
                {
                    // No response expected
                    continue;
                }
            }

            Thread.Sleep(300);
        }
    }

    public static string ByteArrayToString(byte[] ba)
    {
        StringBuilder hex = new StringBuilder(ba.Length * 2);
        foreach (byte b in ba)
            hex.AppendFormat("{0:x2} ", b);
        return hex.ToString();
    }
}

```

And some extensions for sockets:

```
public static class SocketExtensions
{
    public static void SendLVReply(this Socket sct, byte[] dataIn)
    {
        byte[] data = null;
        ushort length = (ushort)dataIn.Length;
        data = new byte[length + 2];
        data[0] = (byte)(length & 0x00ff);
        data[1] = (byte)((length & 0xff00) >> 2);
        Array.Copy(dataIn, 0, data, 2, dataIn.Length);
        sct.Send(data);
    }

    public static byte[] ReadLVReply(this Socket sct)
    {
        byte[] lengthBytes = new byte[2];
        byte[] data = new byte[0];
        int expectedlength = 0;

        sct.Receive(lengthBytes);
        expectedlength = (ushort) (0x0000 | lengthBytes[0] | (lengthBytes[1] << 2));
        if(expectedlength > 0){
            data = new byte[expectedlength];
            sct.Receive(data);
        }
        return data;
    }
}

```

So what is the problem? The brick is successfully visible in Lego Mindstorms editor (or something, I don't know what it is) but when I click to connect to it, the error appears:
I saw that I received something weird to my buffer after establishing a connection (it was weird because there is nothing in the document about the bytes). So I decided to take a real EV3 brick and check out what are they sending to each other. Using RawCap and opening the result through WireShark I saw that they are "messaging" a lot sending each other different things like the version of firmware on the brick, the name of the brick, the location of my project and so on. Here are the bytes:

```
after the brick sent "Accept:EV340\r\n\r\n". The PC sends to the brick this
14 00 01 00 00 18 00 8f 60 c0 0c 83 bb 69 17 65 60 d3 0d 14 64 0a
and the brick replies with this
1b 00 01 00 02 5a e5 c5 51 45 56 33 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
and so on

```

As I said before - there is nothing about it in the communication document.
And I want to say one more thing. If I use the C# library to control the real EV3 brick - there is none of this strange communication after establishing.
So now the question. Is there a way to control or ignore these messages from the Lego Mindstorms editor?

# Answer
> 5 votes
There are two types of commands. "System" commands and "Direct" command. The document that you linked lists all of the system commands but only gives examples of direct commands and does not exhaustively list all of the direct commands. Direct commands are any valid bytecodes to be interpreted directly by the VM running on the EV3, so to completely emulate the EV3, you will need to recreate the full lms2012 VM.

You can find more documentation on the bytecodes used in direct commands at http://ev3.fantastic.computer/doxygen/bytecodes.html (this is documentation from the official LEGO source code that has been built and published by a fan). Beware that the documentation isn't always 100% accurate - you should always check the source code to see how things are actually implemented as well.

There is a machine-readable file of all bytecodes in YAML format at https://github.com/ev3dev/lmsasm/blob/master/bytecodes/data/ev3.yml. This is useful if you want to automatically generate code instead of manually implementing all of the bytecodes.

---
Tags: ev3, mindstorms, programming, wi-fi
---


# Question
Title: Can you identify these parts and assemblies?
I just spent a lovely afternoon going through a box of childhood (40+ years ago) identifying bricks, but ended with a half dozen I couldn't. Here is a picture:

I know some are newer, but some are original (3 & 6)

If you could help me find the actual part numbers I would appreciate it.

# Answer
> 17 votes
1. Brick, Modified 1 x 2 with Digger Bucket Arm Holder and Vehicle, Digger Bucket Arm, Small - 2 x 6 x 2
2. Windscreen 5 x 2 x 1 2/3
3. This is a broken Hook Slope 45 2 x 3 x 1 1/3 Double with Arm and Light Gray Tow Hook
4. Both `a` and `b` are an assembly of Brick, Modified 1 x 1 with Headlight with Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Light Attachment - Thick Ring
5. Combination on Hinge Brick 1 x 2 Base and Hinge Brick 1 x 2 Top Plate
6. Assembly of Plate, Modified 1 x 4 with Tow Ball and Plate, Modified 1 x 4 with Tow Ball Socket, Long, 4 Slots (8mm Socket Length)

---
Tags: part-identification, piece-information
---


# Question
Title: Can anyone identify what this set is from please? Green terrain base with large grey and black mountain pieces
Can anyone identify what this set is from?

# Answer
> 8 votes
A little bit of searching identifies baseplates as being from Mega Bloks Dragons. The line isn't well-documented, however, so I couldn't tell exactly what set these pieces came from, or if they are indeed only from one set.

\[Phil B\]: Added image from the above website for reference:

# Answer
> 2 votes
Those base plates actually seem to be from a Power Ranger set:

https://bricker.info/osets/MEGABLOKS/5730/

---
Tags: part-identification, set-identification, clone-brands
---


# Question
Title: Identify Duplos that were in the Red Bunny Purse
Can anyone tell me what Duplos were included in the Red Bunny Purse? I believe that was purchased in 1984.

# Answer
Plush Red Bunny / Rabbit Storage Bag (Bricklink)

Bricklink only lists 1 gear item and no other elements, so I'm inclined to think Mr. Bunny came without any Duplo elements, you had to fill him with your own Duplo bricks.
> 8 votes

# Answer
It's been a while -- I bought that set for my infant / toddler son probably around 1985. As I recall, it included 20 or 30 duplo blocks, no special shapes, several primary colors. There were enough blocks to fully stuff the bunny's innards, as I recall.
> 1 votes

---
Tags: duplo
---


# Question
Title: How could I motorize the LEGO Land Rover Classic Defender (10317)?
The latest LEGO Land Rover is primarily a system set:

Can this set be motorized using Technic or other components?

# Answer
The set isn't motorized out of the box, but this is possible without too much modification. There is a Technic structure inside the vehicle to facilitate the working steering wheel and suspension found in the model:

We can make use of this to connect both a drive and steering motor to this set.

## Driving the Rear Wheels

The real wheels are attached to an axle assembly connected to the rest of the vehicle via a suspension system:

Here's the rear axle:

One way to drive this axle is to replace it with a motorized version that attaches to the suspension. This isn't how a real car would be driven, but it limits the amount of modification that we need to make to the rest of the vehicle. Here's a quick example I came up with:

If you're wondering what happened to that motor, I happened to use one that I've opened previously.

## Steering

Because this model already features a working steering wheel, it is fairly easily to motorize.

This is made even simpler because the design uses a central gear that can drive a steering wheel on either the left or right of the vehicle for easy modification.

We can replace the engine in the front of the vehicle with an L motor in order to drive the wheels:

Unfortunately, the linkage used does not support much torque, so the L motor will break this connection if allowed to drive the steering at full power.

At reduced power on the steering motor, this all works together fairly nicely as expected:

There's certainly more optimization that could be done to clean up this build, but this shows one way to motorize this vehicle with as little rebuilding as possible.

Despite the fact that this model can be motorized, it isn't really well suited for it. Being a relatively large system build, there are many bits and pieces that can fall off of this when driving around. As just one example, the wheel arches are just held on by a few studs can can fall off easily. This set can be motorized if desired, but it may be better off as a display model.
> 5 votes

---
Tags: motor, powered-up, set-modification
---


# Question
Title: Does LEGO make a electronically controlled pneumatic valve bank?
I've decided to try my hand at building a working LEGO Concrete Block Making Machine, as shown in this picture:

with the idea being that the machine will be controlled by both manual and automatic input. The machine will be controlled by a pneumatic air system using various cylinders.

The manual control is the easy bit, as it's just a bunch of levers next to each other. The problem comes in the form of the automatic system whereby the Technic controller needs to be able to control a pneumatic valve bank in order to run the machine.

My question is this, does LEGO make an electronically controlled valve bank? If so, where can I find one? If not, what would be the best way in accomplishing this?

# Answer
I don't know of any electronically controlled LEGO pneumatics.

However it's not too hard to get the needed functionality. I see two main parts to the equation :

### Controlling the pressure in the system

LEGO have released several pumps over the years. A recent example is Pneumatic Pump Small (6L) V2 with Reinforced Cylinder. A pump like that can relatively easily be driven by a regular motor (by transforming the motor's rotary motion into a linear back and forth motion - using a cam mechanism eg.), which in turn can be controlled by your controller of choice.

Note, you can make this as complicated as you want, with features to protect your motor from overload, to more evenly generate pressure, etc. Many examples of varying complexity can be found on the internet.

### Controlling the direction of air flow

LEGO have released several switches over the years. A recent example is Pneumatic Switch with Pin Holes and Axle Hole, which has a convenient axle hole to allow it to be driven by a motor. Ideally a servo motor, but a regular motor can be made to act like a servo motor if needed.

Some example solutions (mostly using the older style switches that didn't have an axle hole) can be found in How to motorize a LEGO Pneumatic valve?.
> 5 votes

# Answer
There were a few sets with pneumatics and compressors available from the early '90's, my sister had the 8868 Air Tech Claw Rig which came with a 9V motor to keep the compressor working to provide the pressure to move the various parts around

Sadly though as you point out, the switching was at that time all manual.
> 3 votes

---
Tags: technic, programming, electronics, pneumatic, automation
---


title: 2 bags of LEGO bricks without box

text:
# Question
Title: 2 bags of LEGO bricks without box
Don't know what box these came from and there's no instructions.

# Answer
Base on all 6 I identified myself:

1. 1x2 SNOT brick with stud on one side (11211) in Yellow.
2. some 4x4 plates? (3031) in Green
3. 2 2x4 bricks (3001) in Blue.
4. 1x2 Technic (3700) in LBG.
5. 3x3 plate (11212) in Tan.
6. Slope 33 3x2 (3298) in Reddish brown.

If you identified all 6 on Bl results:

This refers to Set 11018: Creative Ocean Fun
> 3 votes

---
Tags: set-identification
---


title: What is this yellow bulldozer set?

text:
# Question
Title: What is this yellow bulldozer set?
In the research field of neural radiance fields, you frequently find the following yellow LEGO bulldozer, and I assume it a set. (Searching for "neural radiance fields bulldozer" will provide many more images.) Given that many of the parts are the generic 1xn parts with the holes instead of more specialized parts, I assume it is a set from at least ten years ago, if not older.
Can anyone identify what set it is?

from https://github.com/NVlabs/instant-ngp

# Answer
That looks like set # 856: Bulldozer

The same set was released in the US with set# 951
> 9 votes

---
Tags: set-identification, technic
---


title: Kids' building blocks

text:
# Question
Title: Kids' building blocks
Found this on eBay, looks to be just 1×2 bricks with round ends, what size are they, is having just that size to restrict?

Just found link on Kiddle website, see there that there are also 1×1's & 1×3's both straight & about 45° corner.

O! not the same, having side indents.

# Answer
> 2 votes
After a few reverse image searches, I found the same kind of building blocks at https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000201944997.html with the following diagram:

i.e. a single 2x1 block is supposed to be 25mm tall, 18.5mm wide and 10mm deep.

---
Tags: clone-brands
---


title: Size of packaging of Battery Box 88015

text:
# Question
Title: Size of packaging of Battery Box 88015
I am interested in the dimensions of the packaging of this product. I am able to find only the dimensions of the battery box itself, but not the box.

# Answer
The packaging's dimensions are just slightly bigger than the battery box in it (it fits with little headroom, and room for a booklet). Specifically, 8 x 7.5 x 4.5 cm (ref. 88015-1 (Original Box Entry)).
> 4 votes

# Answer
I received the component today. The exact dimensions are 43 mm x 72 mm x 77 mm.
> 0 votes

---
Tags: technic, powered-up, size, packaging
---


title: Star Wars Lego build ID help

text:
# Question
Title: Star Wars Lego build ID help
I have an old set built that for the life of me I cannot identify. It has been collecting dust for a number of years. I was able to identify one of the others (Jek-14's Stealth Starfighter) but this one isn't even similar to everything I have seen so far.

It has been played with by my two sons (21 and 7) so may not be exactly accurate, but the bones of it have to have been made from instructions.

Trying to find the build instructions to remake it the way it was intended. Any help would be appreciated.

# Answer
> 5 votes
This is from 75025: Jedi Defender-class Cruiser

keypart: Dark Red Wedge, Plate 4 x 4 Cut Corner

---
Tags: set-identification, star-wars
---


# Question
Title: Seeing if anyone can possibly tell me what brick this is
Trying to find out what kind of brick this is for a wedding book that I'm trying to make and will need quite a few of these.

# Answer
It is Brick, Modified 1 x 2 x 1 2/3 with Studs on Side (22885)
> 4 votes

# Answer
To expand on Alex's answer, an example of it being used can be found in set 60243 - Police Helicopter chase
> -2 votes

---
Tags: part-identification
---


title: Converting Nanobocks builds to LEGO

text:
# Question
Title: Converting Nanobocks builds to LEGO
Had anyone attempted and had any success in converting a nanoblocks build to use LEGO bricks?

On the horizontal plane, the nanoblocks bricks seem to be half the size of LEGO bricks (4mm x 4mm versus 8mm x 8mm), so a purely 2D model could be simply reproduced at double (or four time considering the area) the size.

However, I am finding it harder to determine how to scale the two vertically - nanoblocks quote a height of 5mm, but this is to the top of the stud rather than the height of the brick, which seems to be roughly half as high. This means nanoblock scaled up to the same width would be half the height of LEGO bricks. So perhaps replacing every nanoblocks 1x1 brick with a LEGO 2x2 would work?

Another problem is that nanoblocks produce a 'T' shaped piece which LEGO is missing, but this could be much easier to work around.

Has anyone experimented with this and have any conclusions?

\[I'll tag this with clone brands, but I don't think nanoblocks actually qualifies as a clone (different size, not compatible)!\]

# Answer
I was thinking that Nanoblocks are the same height as Lego plates, not counting the stud. I've built a church from Lego, then tried to build one just as big using Nanoblocks: it having a 30-brick tall tower, but found it to be about 1 brick short, so I estimate Nanoblocks are 3•1mm tall which is what it says on LNO Nanoblocks box, with double height 6•3, guess they expect a 0•1 gap. The 5mm given as their height includes the stud.

So 2 Lego plates will be just over twice as tall as Nanoblocks. One may as well do each level of Nanoblocks as the 2 Lego plates levels using joins in differing places. 1st layer Lego plate, then bricks where also wanted for 2nd layer of Nano, then finish 1st layer Nano with 2nd layer of Lego plate, or maybe start with bricks.

Kawada Nano Block of Japan don't use tubes, but a ridge. This lets the brick below to be positioned anywhere along its length. It is the same with the 1×x pieces as they have no bars. Lego tiles 1×2 with 1 stud & 1×3 with 2 studs can position under their studs if they have groove.

Looking at building a Lego elephant from Nano instructions, it uses 1×4's with round ends. These Lego plates are only in 1 set. To be able to move the ears back to ~45°, I considered using hollow bricks, so square end bricks could turn like a round 1 can. A panel corner 1×1 does the job & needs to be mounted 1 plate lower so the corner of the brick is over its base. Back of Lego elephant, black = 1×3 +2 studs & groove, white = 1×2 +1 stud & groove, yellow = 1×2 +1 stud normal & grey = 2×2 corner. There be 2 ways of doing the top part of legs. Used plate 6×x & so not hollow. Nano, red when I've not dark gray, 2×2 corner as not Kawada.

Photo of orca (killer whale), I do not have the right Lego ball joints, see 1 full brick on fin, some clone brand, 2nd black from front are 2 1×3's with 2 studs with 1×2's atop (I've none for the Nano, so got there a 1×3 atop).

As for T shape, as 2 layer, 1 using 1×3 & other 2×2 corner both with a 1×1. Bulldog, from Wise Hawk, full brick for mouth with top part hidden for Lego.

With the beagle dog there is a 1×2 at 90° under centre of a 1×4, as can't be seen can use a 1×2 with holes as its hollow studs fit to bars. Maybe use a 1×2 slope. (Has a 1×1 atop, so full brick & plate for 2 Nano.) Cow's udder, this = 2×3 central under 3×4, if 3×4 brick used then no problem as 2×3 fits to tubes, but slope or 2 of 2×3 wedge won't do, with 1 row of studs okay. Other way is 1×3's with 2studs across mid 2 'then 2 other way under,
> 2 votes

# Answer
If you want more exact measurements, this Nanoblock vs Lego article shows the exact figures for 1x1 pieces from each brand, not including the studs:

Nanoblock: 3.8 x 3.8 x 3mm

Lego: 7.8 x 7.8 x 9.6mm

That means they're just under half the width and 1/3 the height.

However, you can also see from the images in the link that a standard Nanoblock piece is just a hair shorter than a standard Lego plate (3.2mm), not including the studs.

Therefore, if you simply use two stacked plates instead of standard-height Lego pieces, you can easily replicate Nanoblock builds using Lego by doubling the other dimensions. This is also a better solution to match color profiles.

Of course, this doesn't solve other problems, like the lack of L-shaped pieces and different locking mechanisms, but those should be easy to overcome with a few simple design changes.
> 1 votes

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Tags: building, clone-brands, scale
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title: Powered Up/Pybricks custom electronics?

text:
# Question
Title: Powered Up/Pybricks custom electronics?
The Pybricks documentation has a page for "custom devices", with a picture that shows circuit boards with Lego compatible cables attached. Additionally, the class that goes along with the picture seems to be used to handle generic devices. This implies its possible to make custom electronic devices for use with powered up stuff, but I can't find anything about it in the docs or on the net in general. Does anyone know anything about this? Apologies if I mess up any terminology, I'm very new to all of this.

Edit: the page in question in the docs is https://docs.pybricks.com/en/stable/iodevices/pupdevice.html

# Answer
The Pybricks PUPDevice class works with any device that supports the LEGO Powered UP (PUP) protocol. If you manage to implement that protocol on some other device like a Pyboard, OpenMV or Arduino, the hub will recognize it as a sensor and receive its data.

The picture you referenced shows a generic device, as well as the bottom half of the Ultrasonic Sensor. This device has two screws in the back that you can remove to reveal 6 breakout pins.

Here are several example projects that make use of it. Example code to implement that protocol is here. These projects show how to do it in Python, but ultimately the protocol referenced above is on top of UART, and could be implemented on Arduino systems too.

All of this would be a bit easier if Pybricks supported plain UART (so you could skip the protocol). You can upvote that particular feature request here.
> 4 votes

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Tags: powered-up, pybricks
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# Question
Title: EV3 screen stuck at starting after inserting MicroSD card
I followed the official guide to download microPython and flash it onto an empty MicroSD card (SanDisk Extreme Pro 32GB), but the EV3 screen is now stuck at "Starting" after I insert the MicroSD card. The EV3 works fine without a MicroSD card.

# Answer
This could be due to a bad SD card or due to bad flashing software. For example, there was a broken version of the Etcher software in early 2019 that caused the same symptoms \[\].
> 5 votes

# Answer
I want to add that I encountered the same problem today with Etcher version 1.18.11. I tried to flash the image on my SD card 4 times with this version. Each time Etcher validation failed, and when I tried the SD card in my EV3 the screen stuck at "Starting".

Then I installed Etcher version 1.5.26 and flashed again: validation was successfull this time, and the EV3 booted correctly with the SD card.

So the solution of using version 1.5.26 (https://github.com/balena-io/etcher/releases/tag/v1.5.26) is still valid.
> 4 votes

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Tags: ev3, pybricks
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# Question
Title: Which LEGO set is this vehicle assembly from?
I found this in my LEGO box. I’ve looked up the brick numbers to try and identify, but I can’t for the life of me figure out what set it’s from or a part of. Looks fairly recent, though I have LEGO sets that are at least 30+ years old. It’s not something I would have built without a plan. Would appreciate the help! I’d like to find the rest of the parts and finish it!

# Answer
> 9 votes
It is a 4x4 from Extreme Team Challenge (6584) set released in 1998.

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Tags: set-identification
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