# Question
Title: What's the most cost effective way to buy bulk LEGO bricks?
I've found a couple places to pick up bulk LEGO, but they all have various issues.

Does anyone have a more effective and efficient way to buy bricks?

# Answer
First off, as you mentioned, Ebay is not the greatest place on the net to get bricks. As you seem to be aware of, it is difficult to get individual bricks from these individual sellers. Having to pay separate shipping from various buyers plus the unreasonable prices can really add up.

Then there's LEGO Shop. Here, you can buy LEGO bricks directly from the LEGO company. You can individually purchase bricks from Pick-A-Brick, or buy their currently advertised sets. The downside to this is that they obviously do not carry discontinued sets, the selection in Pick-A-Brick is limited, and the prices are unsatisfyingly high, making the bucks add up quickly. Shipping times can be pretty quick and cheap, that is, if they're not currently having any difficulties with their warehouse. If they are, then orders can be delayed by a large amount of time, which has happened to me twice. I once placed an order there which took nearly two months to arrive.

Then, there's Bricklink. You seem to be aware of this website. I like it very much. It is, in many people's opinions, the best source from which to acquire LEGO bricks. The prices are cheap, it carries almost every piece and set ever released, (even discontinued ones) the tools for finding bricks are useful, and most of the people there are pretty nice. The interface is quite useful, you just have to be familiar with it. Once you get used to it, I'm sure it won't seem so "clunky" to you. For detailed help, enter the chat room. The people there are very nice, and will be happy to help point you in the right direction. Shipping times vary depending on which area you buy from. Buying from within your country might generate shipping the speed of TLG on their best days. Bricklink, however, is much less likely to have technical difficulties as each order is just an individual seller sending something off to the post office, and has therefore generally been more reliable in my experience.
> 59 votes

# Answer
If you contact your closest LEGO store, they can sell you a 'case' of bricks for about $70, which will give you, I'm told, about 650 2x4 bricks, which is about $0.11 per brick. These are bricks that usually go into the pick-a-brick wall. You might be able to buy case by just walking into the store, but expect the manager to have to order the bricks, with a 4 week lead time.

I feel this approach is a nice complement to bricklink.com.
> 25 votes

# Answer
Bricklink really is the best place to get bricks you are looking for. It works really well once you get the hang of it. It also makes it pretty easy to find pieces you are looking for... if you know what it's called or how to describe it.

The hardest thing to get used to is what parts are called. So my suggestion is to find a seller with a large inventory, and just peruse it and figure out where parts of different types are located and what they're called on Bricklink. Alternatively, you can browse to a set you are familiar with and look at the set inventory to learn what Bricklink calls those parts.

Make sure you use the Wanted List feature. This is one of the most important part of BrickLink and a lot of new users completely miss it. You can have one main Wanted List as well as additional Wanted Lists for your various projects. Once you add items to your wanted list from the main Catalog (you can add sets, parts, sticker-sheets, minifigs - anything in the Catalog), you can check which seller carries all or at least most of the items you want.

You can also narrow down your search by color, price, country, new/used, etc. It is really the most useful feature of BrickLink that will save you lots of time and money as you are shopping around.

Also, pay attention to the sellers' feedback and terms. After you shop for a few months, you will see how incredible BL and the BL community are. BL is really a LEGO fan's dream.
> 19 votes

# Answer
Sets from the Classic line tend to have a good value in terms of cost per brick. The trade-off is that you don't get a large model to build in many advanced pieces.
> 12 votes

# Answer
Brickowl.com is another Bricklink-style site with an updated interface and easier shopping experience that you should check out. The interface is well designed and they have a feature built-in that allows you to find the best combo of stores for the parts in your wishlist, then add them all to your cart at once. It even gives you a total + shipping!
> 12 votes

# Answer
I built a page to locate good deals on bulk LEGO by filtering through eBay results using a custom algorithm.

As others have said, eBay can be a cost effective way to pick up bulk bricks. Unfortunately, it can be tedious to weed through the expensive or spammy items to find just the bulk LEGO.

This web app takes some of this work away by calculating price per pound and sorting results by best value.
> 12 votes

# Answer
I'll make a case for eBay:

Bulk lots of around 4-5 pounds often sell for around $7-8 per pound (or less), including shipping. I buy many of these lots, which I count and sort, and the average cost-per-piece has been about 2.5 cents.

If you are an eBay seller, you can relist the parts you don't want to keep. If a lot yields some scarce or desirable pieces you can sometimes even make your money back or clear a profit. This does require some time and knowledge about LEGO parts, and the ability to spot good lots from the sometimes blurry eBay photos.

Although many common parts sell for 1 or 2 cents each on Bricklink, the more desirable parts and colors are anywhere from 5 cents up to several dollars each - plus shipping. On average, you will pay less per piece with bulk lots from eBay. I have been able to make a small cash profit selling parts from bulk lots and have added about 15,000 pieces to my collection. Not the most efficient method, perhaps, but for cost-effectiveness you can't beat free.
> 10 votes

# Answer
There is an app that will help find combinations of Bricklink stores that provide all wanted parts at lowest price (not including shipping). You can read more about and download this app at http://buildingoutloud.com/brickficiency.php
> 5 votes

# Answer
I don't know where you live, but if you live near a Walmart, visit as often as you can starting about 3 weeks before Xmas. Lego sells their huge creative series parts boxes, 1600 pieces, for about $30 US. Mega Blocks also discounts their equivalent by half. The Lego boxes never last 2 days, regardless of how much they have in stock, Walmart sells out. It takes about a week for them to sell out of the Mega Blocks. Last Xmas I only bought 4 of the Lego, this Xmas I'll buy 10. Of course I'm assuming Lego will do it again.

Ask your Walmart manager if they are part of the Lego Xmas sale. You cannot get these bricks cheaper than this! Next best is Kijiji sales or Bricklink sales. Sometimes schools and firms sell off inventory on Bricklink, but these sales rarely last a couple of days as well. I purchased many hundreds of large technic pieces from a lady in NY city who was clearing out inventory of a school, for $80 including postage. The postage cost $50. She would have sold me NXT robots for $125 but I like VEX instead...
> 5 votes

# Answer
Bricklink. I'd like to add that using software (MLcad, LeoCad, Bricksmith) to build the model or just compile a list of pieces you need there. Open it up in a program called BrickStore and you can then export directly out to your wanted list. This is very handy when using Bricklink. You can even look at price averages in the program and jump straight to other stores selling selected parts !

It's much faster than navigating around all the time - Take a look : )

Also don't worry the 'New' Bricklink will look alot easier on the eyes.
> 4 votes

# Answer
In each official lego store there is a wall with shelves of lego bricks. You can fill a small or large cup there. Now matter how you fill the cup, it's a fixed price per cup. Obviously the selection will be limited, but if you happen to have use for the provided bricks, it's often the most cost-effective way to get bricks.

This is provided that you stack the bricks efficiently (this can save up to 50%).

I know several people who spend entire afternoons filling cups there, the store employees don't seem to mind.
> 3 votes

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Tags: shopping
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# Question
Title: Is code written for NXT bricks compatible with EV3 brick (for Johnny 5 building)?
My son is mad on the robot from Short Circuit (Johnny 5) and I want to build robots with him. We have a copy of Daniele Benedettelli's "Creating Cool Mindstorms NXT Robots" and I was planning to start with the simpler Johnny 5 build (miniJohnNXT) which is on the author's website. We only own simple Lego at the moment so I need to invest in a kit which has bricks, sensors etc. So I have a few questions. I've looked around the web but most questions focus on NXT/EV3 compatibility of hardware, not software.

1. Which kit should I buy given that we want to build the miniJohnNXT (but will obviously also do other builds)? The NXT kit (8527, currently about £170), the EV3 retail kit (31313, currently £218) or the EV3 education kit (45544, currently £371)? I realise I'll have to get extra parts whichever kit I get, but the brick seems the main cost.
2. Will the code written for the NXT brick to control Johnny5 work on the EV3 brick? (I assume so, but need to check)
3. Given that the "eyes" part of the robot is an ultrasonic sensor (53792) in the NXT kit, and in the EV3 retail kit is an IR sensor (95654), will this cause big problems with the coding, or can I just modify it relatively easily (or put and ultrasonic sensor elsewhere on the robot?).

My gut feeling is to get the EV3 retail kit as the EV3 brick is newer technology than NXT, so likely to be more forwardly compatible (I think we have years of Lego ahead of us) and the EV3 education kit seems really overpriced, but if the coding won't work except with NXT then I'll get an NXT kit instead.

# Answer
1. I would advise the EV3 retail version. An NXT costs more than it should because it is getting difficult to find. You can buy additional motors and sensors separately in an official LEGO store or order them from the S@H website. The EV3 education kit cost more than it should because it's "educational". You will not need to modify the Johnny 5 build much to accommodate for the different motors sensor and intelligent brick.
2. No, but you'll be able to view the NXT code in the new software and it shouldn't be to hard to reproduce the EV3 equivalent. The code blocks are similar.
3. There is a new ultrasonic sensor (45504) just for the EV3 brick. It's sold as part of the educational kit but you can also buy it separately (which is in my opinion more cost effective). I suppose you could also modify the code to work with the EV3 IR sensor, but range and precision are significantly poorer for distance sensing. However with the IR, you can set it up to track the IR beacon, or you could use it as a remote control.
> 1 votes

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Tags: ev3, nxt, programming
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title: 9V Battery instead of PF Battery Box

text:
# Question
Title: 9V Battery instead of PF Battery Box
I want to use the PF Light Unit in a small MOC. The battery box contains six 1.5V batteries and is too large.

How can I use a regular 9V block battery to power the lights (and possibly other 9V consumers)? Which wires have to be connected to the poles of the battery?

# Answer
> 9 votes
Most Power Functions pieces will run in classic 9V mode. The IR receiver can't, but motors and lights can.

# A hacky solution:

Many people have done this by cutting up an extension wire, and connecting the two outer cables to their power source of choice.

## From: Lego PF Hacking – Wire Hacking

> * GND – ground wire – Always connected (0V regardless of battery pack direction)
> * C1 – control wire 1 – 9V when battery pack is forward, 0V when in reverse
> * C2 – control wire 2 – 0V when battery pack is forward, 9V when in reverse
> * 9V – power wire – On when battery pack is on (9V regardless of pack direction)

---

# A purist solution:

If you prefer a purist solution, you could get a classic 9V battery box that takes a single regular 9V battery.

They have the classic 9V wire connectors on the top (a little hard to see in the image, but there are 2x6 studs with metal connectors). Just pair that with a Power Functions extension wire (which has a 9V connector adapter) to connect your Power Functions elements.

That will give you a purist solution which doesn't require chopping up your wire.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Check out Philo's pages for details on Power Functions: http://www.philohome.com/pf/pf.htm

Basically, a Powerfunctions cable consists of 4 wires: 9V, C1, C2 and GND. C1 and C2 are also 9V/GND, but output can be controlled by other equipment (such as the IR receiver or the LiPo battery box which has an output power control). The best way to power your lights is by connecting the 9V battery to the C1 and C2 lines (doesn't matter in which order you connect them to the + and - of your battery), and just to be safe you can also connect the + to the 9V and the - to the GND line, but that is optional.

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Tags: power-functions, battery
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# Question
Title: Difference between Linear Actuator vs. Linear Actuator Mini
I'd like to know the difference in terms of usage between the standard Linear Actuator:

vs. the "mini" version:

Both of these parts provide the really fun mechanic of translating rotational energy into lateral motion (the essence of an actuator) in a particularly powerful way (in the sense of a worm screw).

My question revolves around the fact that the "standard" actuator is a lot more expensive. When new it comes sealed in its own plastic bag. The "mini" ones are a lot cheaper. Aside from general differences in geometry associated with the two parts, is there any *other* reason one would choose the "standard" actuator? Does it provide any mechanical virtues one would want to consider when designing a build?

# Answer
The biggest difference I can think of that would impact my choice would be that the standard linear actuator is much more sturdy.

The standard linear actuator has a metal pole and is very rigid.

The mini linear actuators are made all of plastic, wiggle quite a bit, and whatever mechanism is inside will skip fairly easily.
> 8 votes

# Answer
The large linear actuator extends 5 studs (from 11 retracted to 16 fully extended)

The small one extends 3 studs (from 7 retracted to 10 fully extended)

That's a large functional difference.
> 7 votes

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Tags: technic, piece-information, mechanical
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title: Direct control of EV3

text:
# Question
Title: Direct control of EV3
I need to control a car with an EV3 brick. I want to control it remotely. The trouble is, I'm using an education set so I don't have the remote. What means of controlling it remotely could I use? I already tried it with some Android phone apps but none of them worked quite right. It's a car that uses rack and pinion steering and the apps seemed to be better suited for skid steering. Is there some other way I could have remote control of it? Perhaps through a laptop or a Playstation controller or something else?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

# Answer
> 2 votes
There is always the .NET API for Windows 8/ if you don't mind programming an app yourself (this would work for Windows/Windows Phone 8). The sample provided would allow you to control the individual ports of the brick but it doesn't take much to change this to control multiple ports from one button press. https://github.com/BrianPeek/legoev3

Sadly this solution is probably no good if programming isn't your strong suite :/

# Answer
> 1 votes
Here are some ideas...

Hardware options:

Software options:

# Answer
> 1 votes
Here is a short curses \[1\] script written in Perl with which you can use the arrow keys on your usb/bluetooth/WLAN connected PC to control the EV3.

It uses ev3duder, part of c4ev3, to establish a connection to the device and then keep sending direct messages to the motors. That way you don't need to modify any software on the EV3.

---

\[1\]: Curses is a terminal control library for Unix and is only used to capture the arrows keys. Check Stackoverflow for other means to do so on your Platform.

# Answer
> 1 votes
You can use second EV3 block (of corse if you have one)

If you know a little bit of Mindstorms then you need to use a sending block (it's blue).

But here is the algorithm you need to make two programs the Master program and the Slave program. (One little secret: it will better work if will load the programs with the USB cable turn off Bluetuth on your computer).

Here is the skeleton of the Master program

And here is the skeleton of the Slave program

Here I am making a program where by a big A motor I am controlling the speed of my robot but you can add anything like gyroscope or touch sensor.

# Answer
> 0 votes
It is possible to connect a Playstation controller (Sixaxis or DS3) directly to the EV3 brick over Bluetooth. Here is how I do it: http://www.pabr.org/bricks/brickhid/brickhid.en.html

There is a servo emulation mode which should support rack-and-pinion steering.

Note that this is a quick-and-dirty proof of concept with several limitations:

* A PC is needed to upload and start a native program on the EV3 brick at every power-up.
* A WiFi dongle must remain attached to the EV3 brick.
* Joystick events are mapped to motor commands directly; they cannot be processed by EV3 programs (but you can customize and cross-compile the C source code).

The proper way to do this is with a custom firmware with full Bluetooth HID support.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I would definitely use bluetooth instead of wifi, i've tried the dongle but it doesn't operate very smoothly. If you are having trouble with the steering I would use different controls on the app. Also make sure to use the official app as I have not tinkered with other apps yet.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I have long sought such a program, eventually wrote it himself. The basis is - on the basis of EV3Messenger its added buttons and handling keyboard events. I can send the latest version

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Tags: mindstorms, ev3, bluetooth
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# Question
Title: How do I take out this pin from an axle connector?
I have an axle connector with a blue pin stuck in it. How do I get it out?

It looks like this:

It's on very tightly. I tried removing it for 5 or so minutes, but it's too slippery.

# Answer
> 16 votes
I usually attach it to a Technic beam, then put something to fill the hole so it can't squeeze together and come out, to give a handle.

The flexible rods tend to be a nice options for filling the hole, the older ones may be a bit better, but I've had success with other pieces that fit minifig hands.

Once you have the blue pin attached to the beam instead of that red piece, you can take the rod out and push it out with an axle or something if needed.

# Answer
> 0 votes
The Brick Separator can be used to apply a force between blue and red pieces (use the sharp end)

# Answer
> 0 votes
You can use a monkey wrench, but the connector will be a little bit squeezed.

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Tags: technic, disassembly
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# Question
Title: Which set does this small bag of LEGO pieces belong to?
I just received a box of LEGO bricks and have no idea what sets they make up. This packet was in there unopened and thought someone might know where they are from?

# Answer
All the pieces shown are used in **Day 17** of the **2012 LEGO City Advent Calendar (4428)**.

It looks like you only have 10 out of the 14 pieces required to build the model, the other pieces must have either been removed at some point or were never included (which is unlikely).
> 8 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Can anyone ID this torso? White torso with electronics and tubing printed
Looks to be a Star Wars pilot torso, but I tried many different keywords on BrickLink and could not find this torso!! I found many very similar torsos, but not this one. Would appreciate any help in finding this part ID, thanks!

# Answer
It is 973pb0270c02 Torso SW AT-AT Driver Pattern / Dark Bluish Gray Arms / White Hands.

Comes from three possible sets: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=973pb0270c02&in=S
> 5 votes

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Tags: part-identification, minifigure-identification
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title: Why is LEGO usually uppercase?

text:
# Question
Title: Why is LEGO usually uppercase?
Everyone I see on here and mostly everywhere else (including LEGO boxes) *LEGO* is written as *LEGO.* I always thought it should be written like *Lego* until I came here.

Why is it always written in uppercase? This seems to also be done by The LEGO Group, as it is on their boxes and website. Is *LEGO* an acronym, or is that just how it is?

# Answer
No, it's not an acronym.

> The name 'LEGO' is an abbreviation of the two Danish words "leg godt", meaning "play well".

All-caps is how the LEGO company asks to have their brand treated.

> ## Using the LEGO® brand
>
> * **ALWAYS** write the LEGO brand name in capital letters.
> * **ALWAYS** use a descriptive noun after the LEGO brand name, it must never appear on its own.
>     + E.g. wrong use: I play with LEGO.
>     + E.g. correct use: I play with LEGO bricks.
> * **ALWAYS** accompany the LEGO brand name by the Registered symbol ® in headlines and the first time it appears in copy text.
> * **NEVER** use the LEGO brand name as a generic term, add a possessive ‘s,’ plural ‘s’ or hyphen.
>     + E.g. wrong use: LEGO’s, LEGOs, LEGO-bricks.
>     + E.g. correct use: the LEGO brand’s, LEGO bricks.
> * **NEVER** use the Registered symbol ® in connection with a company name.
>     + E.g. wrong use: LEGO® System A/S.
>     + E.g. correct use: LEGO System A/S.
> * **NEVER** change or adjust the graphical design of the LEGO logo.
>
> **Thank you for helping us protect the LEGO® brand!**
> 25 votes

# Answer
Alexander O'Mara's answer is correct, however I'd like to add the reasoning behind LEGO's desire to impose such strict rules on their name's usage.

According to the copyright laws **generic terms can't be a protected trademark** and thus if people start using "lego" as a term to describe any bricks-based game - they might loose the exclusivity to their brand. There is an entire list of terms that lost their exclusivity and protection.

Take a look at Google's **Rules of proper usage** for their brand. They sound an awful lot similar to ones imposed by Lego and the thing is - they are just afraid of the term "googling" in regards to any internet search.
> 12 votes

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Tags: lego-group, terminology, marketing
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# Question
Title: I have a bunch of LEGO pieces given to me already setup, any ideas to what set? Tan base with white and transparent cheese wedges?
These were already set up in a box of LEGO pieces that I got. Anyone have an idea of what they might go to?

# Answer
They appear to be part of the Sydney Opera House set:

It contains that tan slope brick:

And those white hinge brick bases:

And you can see those parts in that configuration.
> 9 votes

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Tags: piece-information, set-identification
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# Question
Title: System.ArgumentException: Only Sequence Wires can be snapped
I try to open an project on last version of LEGO Mindstorm EV3 Home Edition, but the system shows the next error message 'An unexcpected error has ocurred. Please restart LEGO MINDSTORM EV3.' After that it generate a log with the next error message:

> ================================================================================ ev3-crash-sl-2017-02-25\_10-41-11-PM.log
>
> Unhandled exception occurred at 2017-02-25\_10-40-43-PM System.ArgumentException: Only Sequence Wires can be snapped. at NationalInstruments.X3.Model.Wiring.X3WireHelper.IsWireSnapped(Wire wire) at NationalInstruments.X3.Model.Block.TabletImportHelpers.CleanupTabletImportPrograms(IEnumerable\`1 vis) at NationalInstruments.X3.X3VI.Design.MultiProjectSupport.\<\>c\__DisplayClass3f.\<\>c\__DisplayClass43.b\__3a() at NationalInstruments.X3.Base.EditorHelpers.PerformActionWhenNoLoadsPending(Project project, Action noLoadsPendingAction, Action projectClosedAction)
> at NationalInstruments.X3.Base.EditorHelpers.\<\>c\__DisplayClassd.b\__a() Stack trace with ILOffsets: at .X3WireHelper.IsWireSnapped (IL offset: 0xffffffff) at .TabletImportHelpers.CleanupTabletImportPrograms (IL offset: 0xffffffff) at .\<\>c\__DisplayClass43.b\__3a (IL offset: 0xffffffff) at .EditorHelpers.PerformActionWhenNoLoadsPending (IL offset: 0xffffffff) at .\<\>c\__DisplayClassd.b\__a (IL offset: 0xffffffff)
>
> ================================================================================ ev3-log-sl-2017-02-25\_10-41-11-PM.log
>
> +000,024 \>\> MINDSTORMS EV3 launched at 2017-02-25\_10-39-52-p.m. +000,024 \>\> OS Type: Mac +000,024 \>\> OS Version: Mac OS X 10.12.1 16B2555 +000,024 \>\> Silverlight version: 5.1.50901.0 +000,026 \>\> MINDSTORMS EV3 assembly file version: 1.0.30908.1 +000,026 \>\> MINDSTORMS EV3 build drop: R1-X3-Dev\[GC\]\_20160908.1 +000,122 \>\> In Application\_Startup +000,125 \>\> Starting plugin loading +002,079 \>\> Starting InitializeNewRespectingForRootCatalog +005,571 \>\> Starting GetExportedValue() +005,595 \>\> Starting GetExportedValue() +006,321 \>\> Generated XmlSerializer for requests/responses/server messages in (seconds): 0,660005 +006,358 \>\> Message queue successfully claimed. +006,382 \>\> Starting GetExportedValue() +006,388 \>\> MINDSTORMS EV3 version: 1.2.2 +006,388 \>\> MINDSTORMS EV3 running as: Retail +006,388 \>\> Starting setup phase 1 +006,433 \>\> MINDSTORMS EV3 language: en-US +006,434 \>\> Starting setup phase 2 +006.448 \>\> \_implicitFallbackString set to "" +006.450 \>\> Starting setup phase 3 +006.855 \>\> FallbackString is "" +006.857 \>\> Starting setup phase 4 +007.209 \>\> Generated XmlSerializer for requests/responses/server messages in (seconds): 0.326752 +007.845 \>\> Starting setup phase 5 +007.852 \>\> Starting setup phase 6 +007.854 \>\> Starting setup phase 7 +008.059 \>\> Starting setup phase 8 +008.059 \>\> Starting setup phase 9 +008.069 \>\> Startup done +010.566 \>\> Time for CreateAndRelinquishX3ProjectInstanceAtLaunch (seconds): 1.346874 +012.597 \>\> Time to load lobby (seconds): 2.027232 +012.597 \>\> Editor load completed +013.536 \>\> Loading project from "/Users/JoseCoronel/Desktop/WALL-E7\_bazmarc/BT\_WALL-E71\_LEFT.ev3" +017.277 \>\> Generating XmlSerializer for BlockHelpSupport took (seconds): 0.015914 +024,729 \>\> Time to create XmlSerializer for MEFAndSerializationHelper (seconds): 0,086546 +051.091 \>\> Unhandled exception occurred at 2017-02-25\_10-40-43-PM System.ArgumentException: Only Sequence Wires can be snapped. at NationalInstruments.X3.Model.Wiring.X3WireHelper.IsWireSnapped(Wire wire) at NationalInstruments.X3.Model.Block.TabletImportHelpers.CleanupTabletImportPrograms(IEnumerable\`1 vis) at NationalInstruments.X3.X3VI.Design.MultiProjectSupport.\<\>c\__DisplayClass3f.\<\>c\__DisplayClass43.b\__3a() at NationalInstruments.X3.Base.EditorHelpers.PerformActionWhenNoLoadsPending(Project project, Action noLoadsPendingAction, Action projectClosedAction)
> at NationalInstruments.X3.Base.EditorHelpers.\<\>c\__DisplayClassd.b\__a() Stack trace with ILOffsets: at .X3WireHelper.IsWireSnapped (IL offset: 0xffffffff) at .TabletImportHelpers.CleanupTabletImportPrograms (IL offset: 0xffffffff) at .\<\>c\__DisplayClass43.b\__3a (IL offset: 0xffffffff) at .EditorHelpers.PerformActionWhenNoLoadsPending (IL offset: 0xffffffff) at .\<\>c\__DisplayClassd.b\__a (IL offset: 0xffffffff)
>
> +051.091 \>\> App exiting (crash)
>
> ================================================================================ ev3-log-wpf-2017-02-25\_10-41-11-PM.log
>
> +000,002 \>\> MINDSTORMS EV3 launched at 2017-02-25\_10-39-48-p.m. +000,011 \>\> OS Type: Mac +000,011 \>\> OS Version: Mono reports the following but it is inaccurate: Unix 16.1.0.0 +000,011 \>\> OS Bitness: 32-bit +000,011 \>\> MINDSTORMS EV3 assembly file version and drop cannot be determined on Mac Desktop - see Silverlight log for this info. +000,227 \>\> Enabling passive scan for TCP;USB +000,340 \>\> Generated XmlSerializer for server messages in (seconds): 0,088872 +000,389 \>\> Generated XmlSerializers for requests/responses messages in (seconds): 0,044407 +010,317 \>\> Message queue successfully claimed. +016,121 \>\> AppFullyLoadedEvent received +054,705 \>\> App trying to exit (crash) +054,710 \>\> WorkingSet64: 446,377,984 +054,710 \>\> VirtualMemorySize64: 1,589,334,016 +069,046 \>\> App exiting (crash)

How I can open the project again to fix the issue?

# Answer
\*.ev3 project files are zip files that contain a bunch of files.

Using a copy of the original project file you might be able to edit the zip file and throw out a file at a time to see if the project file can be opened.

Otherwise, reloading the EV3 software application might be helpful.

None of that is a real solution, but might be worth a try.
> 2 votes

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms
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title: Saturn V set from the 60s?

text:
# Question
Title: Saturn V set from the 60s?
I have some of my dad's old Lego sets from the 1960s when he was a kid. There are circular discs that fit on top of each other to connect and form a rocket. Is this a Saturn V rocket model (the ones that took the Apollo astronauts to the moon) or perhaps some other rocket? What Lego sets like this were available in that period?

# Answer
> 8 votes
It's hard to answer this definitively without a picture identifying the exact parts you have, but this sounds a lot like the set Rocket Base (358-1) from 1973:

That was one of the first space themed sets. The round parts are similar to what you've described. It looks like an obvious tribute to the Apollo program, though it isn't licensed or branded that way.

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Tags: set-identification, space
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title: EV3 won't run a certain loop

text:
# Question
Title: EV3 won't run a certain loop
I'm trying to make a program where an EV3 is IR controlled but if button 9 (toggle) is pressed it goes in autonomous mode. However, my EV3 will not run a certain loop in the program.

It looks like this:

The big one won't run; no matter what I put in it.

# Answer
1. A program should have only one "Start" block (the green play button).
2. Your 3 segments of code are not linked together, you need to drag a "beam" from the exit of one loop to the block that should execute after the loop exits.
3. You need to link the action of pressing the button to an exit condition for your loops. You are using infinite loops. The only way to escape an infinite loop is a Loop Interrupt block. Click on the infinity symbol on the loop blocks for more options.
> 0 votes

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Tags: ev3, software
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# Question
Title: In lego mindstorm EV3, can you make the individual programs in a project into functions which can be used in the other programs?
The bit where you program what the robot does using your computer. I'm making a project and I can't fit it all onto the screen, so if you can't do functions, is there any way to zoom out of the screen or something, so I can add more?

# Answer
> 4 votes
You can turn parts of your program into custom blocks by selecting them and choosing Tools -\> My Block Builder from the menu. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CApCoGQJRcU for a tutorial on this feature.

# Answer
> 1 votes
In the MINDSTORMS EV3 software you can Zoom in and out to be able to view your complete program (there are magnifier icon and an 1:1 on the top right)

You can also create MyBlock ... select a group of block that do something specific like rotate till object detected - then click on Tool in the menu - then on MyBlock Builder -- once a MyBlock is created they appear in the CYAN colored block tab below (the one on the far right) Now every time you want to seek for object just call that MyBlock

# Answer
> 1 votes
MyBlocks are the right way to go, but you can still end up with a program that is larger than will fit on your screen.

The canvas on which you create your programs can be scrolled left to right and up and down.

In MS Windows, hold the Alt key and click and drag on an empty space in the canvas. I don't know the equivalent key on a Mac, but I'm sure there is one. There should also be arrows you can click on at each edge of the screen if your program is not fitting in the window. If you have a scroll wheel on your mouse, you can also use that to scroll up and down.

Blocks need not be adjacent. Though not considered a best practice in EV3 programming, you can "snake" the program on screen by breaking code up into sections of blocks that will fit the width of the screen in consecutive rows. Non-adjacent blocks can be connected with a "Beam" by dragging from the exit point of one block to the entry point of the next block.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I'm not particularly familiar with Mindstorms EV3, but I know that NXT-G has the capability to call other programs from a main program using MyBlocks.

As far as I know, you can't zoom out of the EV3 and NXT programming environments, although in NXT-G there is an overall view you can get by switching the tabs in the lower left hand corner.

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Tags: mindstorms, programming, ev3
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title: Which move block to use with Gyro?

text:
# Question
Title: Which move block to use with Gyro?
We would like to make a series Gyro drive blocks. As a general rule what would be the benefits and drawbacks from using the move tank and move steer blocks?

My basic design is to read the gyro and compute the error from the desired direction the multiply the error by a gain. This gain would be the direction for the move steer block. For the move tank we subtract the error from one motor and add the error to the other motor.

Another option would be to only change the motor power on one side for the tank steer.

My plan is to test all three types but I would like to hear comments from those of you with more experience.

# Answer
> 1 votes
Here are some gyro issues you still have to contend with.

1. Lag. The gyro reading lags behind the actual movement. If, for example, you are spinning and waiting for a reading of 90 degrees before stopping the movement, you will be beyond 90 degrees after you stop, unless you are moving *very* slowly.
2. Accuracy. They gyro only reads in increments of 1 degree and it's also not terribly accurate (repeatable).
3. "Offset". As your gyro algorithm does it's processing, the steering correction will restore the heading, but you may no longer be on the same linear path. Let's say your robot has a left bias. As it turns off course to the left and the gyro algorithm corrects back to the right, you may be back on the correct heading, but your path is now slightly to the left of where you started. You will zig-zag like this all the way there.

If you can deal with those issues, your algorithm idea is solid. But you may find that Move Steer and Move Tank are more accurate. It really depends on the situation.

I have written blocks that use the gyro to set the heading for movement, but not for in-place turns. In-place turns are made very difficult by the lag issue unless you are willing to do all your turns at the same speed and use a simple offset value to compensate (i.e., stop motors at 86 degrees, usually comes to rest at 90).

With my "Move Gyro" block, I don't even need to execute an explicit turn motion, I can say "move 10 inches at heading of 0 degrees, then 10 inches at heading 90 degrees, the gyro algorithm makes the turn automatically (and rather quickly) as it moves forward. It will be close, but the result will not be exactly 10 inches in both directions.

**EDIT**

After re-reading your question, I may be a little off the mark, or just not clear on what you are asking. Your use of Move-Steer or Move-Tank depends on what you are trying to do.

To turn without driving forward, you could use either Move-Tank or Move-Steer until you reach your desired gyro angle. Move-Tank should pivot mostly in-place around the midpoint between the drive wheels. A Move-Steer turn without driving forward would require maximum turning input which should keep one wheel un-powered. This is called a pivot turn and is probably better executed by operating the 2 motors independently. Turn one motor off and apply the brake, then power the other motor until your desired turn is made. You can probably do this just as accurately without the gyro. In a pivot turn, one wheel moves along an arc. The length of this arc for a given turn angle can be calculated based on the distance between your drive wheels (wheel track) and the circumference of your wheels. Thus, lock one motor, drive the other motor the necessary distance to travel along the arc. If you aren't into geometry, post a new question for the math on that.

To drive forward along a gyro heading, your algorithm idea is a good one, except for my point in item 3 above. But if your robot tracks well, that offset should be minor.

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Tags: ev3, gyro
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# Question
Title: Where can I find a LEGO tube piece that is ridged on the outside
I have tried Amazon and had no luck.

# Answer
Try BrickLink, a site which can solve all of your lego needs. It's pretty useful and relatively easy to navigate. Takes a while to get used to, but it's personally my favorite third-party lego site out there. Here are a couple screenshots of some of the items in the 'hose' categories. You can buy any item that has been listed by any of the thousands of sellers on the site! It's much better than Amazon, eBay, or LEGO.com/pickabrick in terms of variety, price, and convenience.
> 4 votes

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Tags: piece-information
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title: What set is this head from?

text:
# Question
Title: What set is this head from?
Could somebody tell me what set this head was used in. I swore it came from an Indiana jones set, but after looking it up I guess not.

# Answer
> 2 votes
This is part 3626bpb0402:

This part is present in six sets, but if you are getting it confused with something from Indiana Jones, my bet would be on it coming from this Prince of Persia set (7573 Battle of Alamut):

Here's the complete minifig with that head from the set:

Here's the list of other sets if that isn't the right one.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Bazooka blast ev3 Mindstorms using Python
I would like to shoot balls with the ev3 Lego robot. How can I code it using Python?

Which components do I need for that and which function and motor use ?

# Answer
> 2 votes
ev3dev works pretty well for that purpose, and all you need is a microSD card.

You'll need to use the Motor class. It work with both large and medium motors, and either can be use to shoot balls, so this part will be at your preference.

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms, programming, python
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# Question
Title: Website with layout plans for LEGO Duplo trains?
Can anybody suggest a web site with plans for LEGO Duplo trains?

I've searched the net for a while without any interesting results. Any hints appreciated!

# Answer
> 10 votes
I'm not aware of any sites that are dedicated to DUPLO train layouts, but there are certainly interesting layout ideas out there. For example, this was included in set 2932:

There are also loads of great creations in this Pinterest category:

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Tags: trains, duplo, monorail
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title: Is using the term "Legos" always wrong?

text:
# Question
Title: Is using the term "Legos" always wrong?
LEGO tries very hard to protect its brand name. There is a company policy to use the expression "Lego bricks" rather than "Legos."

I am fortunate to live close to a Legoland and a LEGO retail store. However, I occasionally hear an employee say "Legos," and of course the (American) public uses "Legos" all the time.

**Is this incorrect**? Are we just being lazy?

# Answer
You can say "Legos" if you want to. But for The LEGO Group it's an important matter, because if people start saying "Legos" about similar products produced by other companies, LEGO might lose their brand if it is deemed genericized.

For instance, see Wikipedia which has an entry about "Legos" in the Generic trademark article:

> The Lego Company has worked to prevent the genericization of its plastic building blocks following the expiration of Lego's last major patents in 1978. Lego manuals and catalogs throughout the 1980s included a message imploring customers to preserve the brand name by "referring to \[their\] bricks as 'LEGO Bricks or Toys', and not just 'LEGOS'." In the early 2000s, the company acquired the Legos.com URL in order to redirect customers to the Lego.com website and deliver a similar message. Despite these efforts, many children and adults in the United States continue to use "Legos" as the plural form of "Lego".

For LEGO guidelides, see this picture:
> 7 votes

# Answer
(I feel like this should be pinned to the homepage or something, as I've seen this question a LOT.)

Here is a link to their official policy statement:

https://www.lego.com/en-us/legal/legal-notice/fair-play

Relevant excerpts:

"**A Trademark must be Protected**

A trademark must be able to distinguish the goods of one company from those of another. If a trademark loses this ability, the owner may find that it can no longer prevent others from using the trademark. An owner must prevent the improper use of its trademarks to prevent the public from being deceived. This is why the LEGO Group is very active around the world in making sure that its trademarks are not misused."

"**Proper Use of the LEGO Trademark on a Web Site**

If the LEGO trademark is used at all, it should always be used as an adjective, not as a noun. For example, say "MODELS BUILT OF LEGO BRICKS". Never say "MODELS BUILT OF LEGOs". Also, the trademark should appear in the same typeface as the surrounding text and should not be isolated or set apart from the surrounding text. In other words, the trademarks should not be emphasized or highlighted. Finally, the LEGO trademark should always appear with a ® symbol each time it is used."
> 2 votes

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Tags: lego-group, popular-culture
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title: What is the name of this part

text:
# Question
Title: What is the name of this part
This part is usually used on the simple 4 wide car base mostly seen in city sets. With making these simple cars, it sits on the sides, and provides a base under a 1x4 Panel pieces. 4 studs on the lower part, 1 higher stud on each side which touches with the fender pieces. Dimensions for this piece is **1x6x1**.

# Answer
BrickLink calls it **Part 52501 Slope, Inverted 45 6 x 1 Double with 1 x 4 Cutout**:
> 4 votes

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Tags: part-identification, city
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title: How can I find LEGO bargains on eBay?

text:
# Question
Title: How can I find LEGO bargains on eBay?
Sometimes I have been able to find some good deals on used LEGO sets, however most of the time I spend looking for sets is trial and error.

I usually search from **Toys & Games \> Construction Toys & Kits \> Lego** to weed out most of the clone brands and sort by **Best Match**.

Are there any particular good search terms, web services or techniques that can make it easier to find LEGO bargains on eBay?

# Answer
I don't think there is a single strategy that will always work - it all depends on what other people are looking for at the same time as you are looking. For example, I have seen Lego Maersk train sets (I'm a Train fan :) ) sell for $250 in certain auctions, but have managed to pick up one with extra power functions for less than that in a separate auction.

Here are a few things that might make your life easier:

1. Create searches and save them (you can even get notification emails for new finds this way). These are called "Followed Searches".
2. Use the tips and techniques in the Advanced Search section of eBay Help to refine your searches. For example, if you want LEGO but not Duplo, you could search for "Lego -Duplo".
3. Always compare with current retail values (check Amazon.com, shop.lego.com or brickset.com) if the set is still current
4. For sets that are no longer current - look at brickset.com to see what they used to go for. If you have the time, check out Bricklink.com and see how much the same set costs there, or, if you *really* have the time, use the Inventory feature and see if you can get a better deal just buying the set pieces :). For the popular holiday train (10173) for example, which easily sells for \>$500 on eBay, the cost in pieces is typically around $200 on Bricklink, lower if you already have some of the critical pieces.
5. When it gets to bidding, look into using Sniping software, which allows you to place a bid in the closing seconds of an auction. This often helps you win auctions if no others are using snipes. JBidWatcher is a good starting point.
6. For bidding, check out what others have already bid ("Bid History") and also look at "Show Automatic Bids". This allows you to see who is really eager to get it and how often they have bid.

There are for sure other techniques out there, but these are the ones I find work best for me.
> 5 votes

# Answer
I've put together a basic web service that does this if you are specifically searching for bulk LEGO (e.g. 5 pounds of assorted bricks). It is available here:

https://joncraton.org/lego-by-pound/

It searches US eBay for bulk LEGO via a number of search terms. It then limits the results to only those for a which a weight can be determined from the listing title. It excludes all results for which the price + shipping is over $10 per pound. The results are returned sorted by soonest end time.

This has been very helpful for me in identifying bulk lots that are a good value, so I wanted to add it here as another method of bargain hunting on eBay.
> 5 votes

# Answer
I don't know about ebay, but I have used bricklink to get parts. I looked for an old Unitron set (Star Hawk II), and it produced an itemized list with links to each part, or group of parts. I was able to order small groups of parts from different vendors (other users) on that site. You may want to factor in shipping or use the terminology you get from bricklink to search ebay, as most enthusiasts tend to keep the vocabulary the same. Hope that helps!
> 2 votes

# Answer
The following is for **complete sets**:

First of all, I get a feeling for what currently is a "bargin". Prices for sets vary a lot throughout the year. Therefore, I do the following:

**Search term**: lego "set number"

**Search options**: auction, soonest end time

After a few auctions have ended, I already know what would be a good price for a given set. Then I save the search and look for promising auctions, with patience. Usually I don't follow "MISB, NEW etc." because I want to build, not put away sealed. I also watch out for "no minifigs" because that reduces the price significantly. I also don't care about the original box. Building instructions, on the other hand, are important to me.

Sometimes, missing parts come in handy when you know how to replace them (or already have them). Even simple missing parts tend to reduce the final bid.

Note: After a couple of months your bargin price may not be a bargin any more: Once, I didn't buy a used 42009 for around 110 Euros, now it costs at least 160. Too much patience is not good if you really want to own a particular set. :)

Note 2: I have never understood the "Best results" default. "Best" means that many other bidders are already aware of that particular item. Not good for bargins.
> 1 votes

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Tags: shopping, ebay
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# Question
Title: Set identification for white Technic panel with sticker that says "5974"
I would like to know what set these are from. We have 2 of them! Thanks!!

# Answer
You have

LegoTechnic, Panel Fairing #18 Large Smooth, Side B with '5974' and Air Intake Pattern (Sticker) - Set 5974

from 5974-1: Galactic Enforcer
> 2 votes

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification
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# Question
Title: How to remove an unslotted length-2 technic axle from a one-way axle hole?
A problem that sometimes occurs during disassembling is an unslotted length-2 technic axle being stuck in some axle hole that is a dead end, i.e., you cannot push the axle out with a longer axle from the other side, e.g., like this:

With longer axles, you usually have a better grip and more leverage to get them out, and slotted axles can be grabbed by the slots. But an unslotted length-2 axle may be quite difficult to remove.

Are there any tricks to do this?

# Answer
> 2 votes
1. Take a thin technic beam or plate with an axle hole, preferably in the middle. I like the rotor 2 blade, which already has a firm grip on axles to begin with.
2. Push it over the axle.
3. Apply a slight rotating force like this:
4. Slowly and straightly pull out the axle (while still applying the force).
5. Free the axle from the tool with standard means.

# Answer
> 3 votes
The method I use is not as "purist" as Wrzlprmft's, but it also works. Wrap the exposed section of the axle in a piece of cloth (a T-shirt works well), then gently grab the cloth-wrapped axle with pliers and pull out. The cloth is to prevent any marring of the axle piece, and it also provides a good grip for the plyers. Needle-nose or other small pliers work the best as they give you the most control for manipulating small LEGO pieces.

# Answer
> 0 votes
For me, I try to use any gears or wheels that is more stiff to pull it out by attaching it with the gear or wheel. If cannot, I directly use a tapered nose pliers with a piece of cloth to pull it out.

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Tags: technic, disassembly
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# Question
Title: Identify this figure - soccer shirt with a "VS" (or cut off "US") logo with soccer ball (football) on front, and "7" on back
Checked lots of different categories on BrickLink, but couldn't find anything on this figure, or even the torso by itself. Any help to get me closer to figuring out who this little guy is would be much appreciated!

# Answer
## Soccer Player White Team Player 5

This minifigure appeared only once in the 2002 set Grand Championship Cup - U.S. Men's Team Cup Edition (3425).

There are two sticker sheets included in the set (, ), the second sticker sheet shows the stickers used on the minifigures. However the sticker used is for player number 7, but BrickLink calls this minifig player 5 (which isn't a huge difference but possibly worth mentioning for identification).

The instructions don't provide any particular guidance as to which minifigure is which number, probably because none of them represent real football players. You probably couldn't find the exact Minifig on Bricklink because they use an image without the stickers.
> 5 votes

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Tags: minifigure-identification
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title: How to make LEGO unbreakable

text:
# Question
Title: How to make LEGO unbreakable
I would like to build a LEGO model which is unbreakable.

What is the best approach?

I am not looking for **just** glue here.

EDIT:

I don't just want to strengthen the bond between the bricks, but the model as a whole. The level of force to withstand is in the area where it would actually break a single brick.

/EDIT

Has anyone tried the kind of spray on film you can use to protect your car from bumps? How does these kind of product react with LEGO plastic?

Also important is that whatever I would use should not add a thick layer on top of the LEGO, it needs to retain it's original size to some extent. A millimeter or maybe two in some places could be ok.

# Answer
> 3 votes
This is really nearly impossible unless you have a lifetime supply of super glue.

A good structure using Technic LEGO bricks will provide better support and a lot more "stick" to each other, making the creation less breakable. Building the structure in which the strongest side will take the most hits/pressure should be an excellent way to make the model unbreakable. Joining a Technic skeleton with other bricks should improve your model's durability. Technic and regular LEGO bricks create the best possible way for models to not fall apart.

Overlapping bricks (longer bricks preferred) like bricks can make a strong support for each other. Each piece helps each other support a piece, having no weak points unless layered unevenly.

Try making your models fall and see where they break most often. The place where they break off is probably a weak point and needs more support or the pieces used are just too weak for the job. Replace/rebuild to improve the overall structure of the model. Of course, long bricks are preferred as the pressure is more evenly placed, making the hits seem pitiful against the strong model.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Is there a specific scenario in which it should be unbreakable? You definitely should use different techniques to prevent a spaceship from falling apart when dropped from a meter and to prevent a brick wall from separating when hit by a rolling football.

For System bricks using larger, longer bricks in overlapping configuration (think real life bricklaying) will certainly strengthen a model. You can also experiment with SNOT building to better withstand forces from other directions too.

For larger models a Technic skeleton can be built to be surprisingly strong, especially if you can anticipate the direction of the force and build accordingly.

Another approach to consider is to not build a single unbreakable model, but to plan it so that it has a few predefined breaking points where it will come apart. Then you can always put it back together easily. But of course it depends on your specific use case.

# Answer
> 2 votes
It's hard to answer this question without knowing more about the model in question. Something like a small Lowell Sphere would probably be made 'unbreakable' by a little squirt of expanding foam insulation inside. A Technic vehicle would be a whole different problem.

# Answer
> 0 votes
You could glue each brick together from inside the brick.

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Tags: glue, durability
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# Question
Title: Lego Batman Figures In Picture Unknown? Please Help
I missed this purchase by seconds; I was devastated and so was my son; probably me more so. Secretly I am a massive fan.

There are some unusual Batman figures that I haven't seen before. I was wondering if someone is able to identify these so I can search again. Chances of the same bunch coming up are very unlikely. Will buy them individually if that's what it takes.

# Answer
> 2 votes
First off let me apologize for fueling your future addiction to Batman LEGO minifigures.

Bricklink finds me 211 minifigures searching for "batman"

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/search.page?q=batman#T=M

Many of these are related characters and not Batman himself, but there are a lot of Batman minifigures, including some really odd ones:

I can also confirm that some of the ones shown in your picture are not Batman and are assembled incorrectly, the middle far right figure appears to be a Nightwing body with a different head and an added cape and batman cowl (original Nightwing shown below), also upper right is clearly superman wearing a bat cowl, if the picture was better you could tell it was dark blue and not black.

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Tags: minifigures, lego-group, minifigure-identification
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# Question
Title: Technic 8858 Rebel Wrecker alternate model impossible to build?
I don't mean "difficult", I mean it appears to have an actually impossible instruction. Or am I missing something obvious? Here's the deal (pardon my lack of standard names for parts):

I recently dusted off my 8858 Rebel Wrecker, and decided to build for the first time ever the alternate model, a quad bike. It's fine, despite its fondness for difficult-to-separate brick combinations, until I get to the steering linkage, which involves a connecting bar with a socket on either end.

One socket connects to the rack (a toothed plate with a ball on both ends; this happens in Step 8), the other to a ball on a part that forms the wheel mount. The catch is that the connecting bar has little flanges in the sockets that (a) make it so the ball won't immediately pop out the other side, but crucially here, (b) make it so the both balls must be inserted from the *same* side. The model has the balls on *opposite* sides. I cannot figure out how to make this work without breaking the flanges. Any advice?

# Answer
> 8 votes
Welcome to LEGO Answers! That's a great question.

I don't actually have this set, but I believe the issue is that the linkage piece that you are using comes in two separate variants:

The variation is subtle, but the small flanges that you mention in your question were added in a variant that came later than the set you are trying to build. This is what prevents you from connecting ball joints from different sides, and is one of the cases where part variants are not equivalent for particular building scenarios. You really need to use 2739a here rather than 2739b.

Hopefully you still have the original 2739a parts around, but if not, you can pick them up on Bricklink relatively cheaply.

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Tags: technic, building, compatibility
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# Question
Title: Doubt about minifigures of LEGO Star Wars on BrickLink not having accessories like weapons
another user recommend to me in another post this page to buy miniatures for my growing collection of minifigures of LEGO Star Wars.

My question regarding the page is simple, there is a large assortment of minifigures of all the years, but why no one includes their accessories? For example, laser sheets or blasters ...

Can the originals be obtained in any way within the page or is there any other method to obtain them?

I've been looking at Amazon, but the prices are very high ... But they do include the minifigures accessories.

Any ideas?

# Answer
> 5 votes
As you've noticed, the Starwars Minifigs don't come with accessories - this probably makes it easier for the sellers and buyers in terms of sorting: for example the battle packs often came with 3 or 4 different characters along with 2 different weapon styles - there's no definitive "this character has this style of weapon".

The weapons can be found using the Parts - Minifig, Weapon category - there are (at present) 4 guns tagged with `(SW)`, as well as the various different lightsaber hilts (listed as `Weapon Lightsaber Hilt`), various generic weapons (pikes/spears) and the newer "Shooter Mini with \[...\] Trigger" that is appearing for more play value over authentic weapon styles (another reason why you might want to buy the weapons separately).

In terms of lightsabers, the beams themselves are listed as `Bar 4L (Lightsaber Blade / Wand)` under the Bars category (there's also Kylo Ren's `Bar 4L / 2L Crossed`).

If you're after more "realistic" weapons, then third party producers may be what you're after. BrickArms do a nice line in Sci-Fi weapons that include Han's DL-44 and the Imperial issued EL-11, DC-15, DC-15S and D9-AR.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Since you are asking 'why' accessories are not included in listings for minifigures, I will give you a short and simple answer to directly answer that part of your question.

It is not nearly as efficient to try and have figures with their accessories be listed as it would be for them to be alone. Accessories are different from a minifig's hat, persay, because we do not see a character bald in universe, so the hat is a necessity for their character, but a weapon or accessory does not have that same necessity.

In addition to this, proneness to discrepancies in listings from seller to seller would be much higher when accessories are involved. This is especially true if a figure comes in more than one set, but has different accessories in each set. By keeping accessories and minifigures separate, there will be fewer catalog entries in the database. The goal is always to keep the database as simplistic and easy to use as possible.

I hope that sheds some light on why BL does not list its figures with their accessories (nor does any other third-party-lego-selling website).

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Tags: minifigures, star-wars, bricklink
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# Question
Title: What's the purpose of the decoration on the BrickHeadz piece?
I just bought a BrickHeadz set (the Captain America one) and it comes with a piece to put on the models base. The part number is 6188632 and is described on a few sites as a black 2x4 with decoration. What I don't get is what the purpose of the decoration is. Here is a picture of the piece.

The decoration looks like a generic BrickHeadz head with a speech bubble with the number one. So is that all there really is to it or is there something I'm missing? I thought it might represent the models number but this particular one is number five in the series not one.

What am I missing here?

# Answer
> 8 votes
According to LEGO, it's the BrickHeadz icon with the series number.

> He also stands on a buildable baseplate with series number and BrickHeadz icon for easy display -- Batman Brickheadz LEGO Shop page

If they release another series of Brickheadz, those sets will probably have a similar piece with a "2" on it.

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Tags: piece-information, piece-usage
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# Question
Title: Why do many minifigures have printing on their neck pegs?
Why do many minifigures have printing on their neck pegs?

For example:

I also remember most (if not all) of the minifigures from the classic Space, Town, and Castle sets from the 1980s having similar printing on the neck peg. (I don't have a good sampling of current minifigures, but I've seen some with and some without the printing.)

What is the printing for? It is not visible when the head is attached, it does not seem to resemble anything (like a tie or scarf). The only thing I can think of is to prevent the head from sticking to the neck peg (or to reduce wear on the plastic itself), but if that's the case, why do some torsos have them and some don't, and why would they be only on the front of the neck peg?

(My guess for the last answer is that their manufacturing equipment usually prints only on the front of torso anyway.)

# Answer
> 7 votes
It is explained and demonstrated in this documentary from the LEGO factory: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnRRDIFNxoM&t=3m33s

While the machines in Denmark use a sensor to detect the paint on the neck-posts to attach the arms correctly, the machines in China use a more sophisticated modern camera to detect torso print, and they don't need the paint on the neck-post. This is why minifigures made in China (collectible minifigures, magnet and keychain minifigs, etc.) do not have the paint mark on the neck.

# Answer
> 3 votes
The neck printing is a visual cue for the manufacturing machinery to indicate which side of the minifig is the front. This is done to avoid incorrect assembly of arms, and likely also assists in the printing of the torso.

---
Tags: minifigures, manufacturing
---


# Question
Title: Any way to track a light source in 1 dimension using one color sensor?
I would like to know if there is any workable way to use a single color sensor to track a light source in one axis of rotation?

Would rotating the sensor back and forth within a few degrees, every few seconds, to check differing light levels work?

# Answer
> 4 votes
Yes this is doable.

The typical use is with a robot, a lamp/light placed some distance away, with the goal being: navigate towards the light.

Assuming a robot that can spin (turn in place without moving forward or backward); mount a light sensor in a tunnel that shield the sensor from most of the light except light coming from straight forward.

Spin the robot until the light sensor sees the light (anything above 80% is reasonable).

Drive forward while the bright light is visible, when it isn't stop, spin until it is visible.

The color sensor has an ambient light setting, use that.

There are a number of line-following algorithms that can be modified to handle moving toward a point of light.

---
Tags: ev3
---


# Question
Title: Can anyone please tell me what these old white 4x4 circles are?
What are these?

They are from a box of very old LEGO bricks, circa 1981.

# Answer
> 4 votes
It looks like 3 of Turntable 4 x 4 - Old Type Complete, Perfectly Round which came in 13 different sets from 1963 - 1970.

I'm guessing the one in the middle is either broken or disassembled (if that's possible), and the top of it attached to the bottom of one on the right.

---
Tags: part-identification
---


# Question
Title: Averaged out, as of 2016, how many shapes has Lego introduced per year since brick 1?
Averaged out since Lego first began selling addictive bricks, and discounting the structural redesign of existing bricks (Like the 2x4. Tubes were added, but it was still a 2x4) how many shaped elements has Lego added per year?

To be clear, I'm asking for a shape count, not a color or piece count, and the average number of released shapes over the years, not a breakdown of the treasures recently heaped upon us.

# Answer
The BrickLink catalog has this option. List all parts, then click on "Year summary". There are 45510 parts in total. The list starts in 1950 (8 parts!), everything before that year is year "0". 2002 was the first year with more than 1000 parts, 2016 saw an impressive number of 3490 parts.

**EDIT:**

As pointed out in a comment, the entries in the BrickLink catalog contain all kinds of variants of the same shape. One example:

`Brick 1 x 2 with Yellow Left Arrow and Black Border Pattern
Brick 1 x 2 with Yellow Down Arrow and Black Border Pattern
Brick 1 x 2 with Yellow Grille Pattern
Brick 1 x 2 with Black Grille Pattern
Brick 1 x 2 with White Grille Pattern` ... and so on

It turns out that part descriptions are structured like this:

```
<shape description> "with" or "without" <details>

```

So all above items are "Brick 1 x 2" shape. I wrote a script that takes the csv-formatted BrickLink catalog, deletes all part descriptions from "with" or "without" onwards, and then deletes all duplicate lines.

**Result:** from the **45510** parts of the catalog remain **17236** entries. Looking at this list, I would say that this number is an upper limit to the number of distict shapes that have been produced. Maybe 10% have to be subtracted to get a good estimate.

Example: There are 52 types of Bricks left. There are some transparent bricks and "solid studs" that are not a shape of its own.

`Brick 10 x 10
Brick 10 x 20
Brick 10 x 20 - Undetermined Underside Type
Brick 12 x 24
Brick 1 x 1
Brick 1 x 10
Brick 1 x 12
Brick 1 x 16
Brick 1 x 1 Transparent
Brick 1 x 1 x 3
Brick 1 x 1 x 5
Brick 1 x 1 x 5 - Solid Stud
Brick 1 x 2
Brick 1 x 2 Transparent
Brick 1 x 2 x 2
Brick 1 x 2 x 3
Brick 1 x 2 x 5
Brick 1 x 3
Brick 1 x 3 Transparent
Brick 1 x 3 x 5
Brick 1 x 4
Brick 1 X 4
Brick 1 x 4 Transparent
Brick 1 x 4 x 1
Brick 1 x 6
Brick 1 x 6 Transparent
Brick 1 x 6 x 5
Brick 1 x 8
Brick 1 x 8 Transparent
Brick 2 x 10
Brick 2 x 12
Brick 2 x 14
Brick 2 x 2
Brick 2 x 2 Corner
Brick 2 x 2 Transparent
Brick 2 x 2 x 3
Brick 2 x 3
Brick 2 x 3 Transparent
Brick 2 x 4
Brick 2 x 4 special (special bricks, test bricks and/or prototypes)
Brick 2 x 4 Transparent
Brick 2 x 4 x 3
Brick 2 x 6
Brick 2 x 6 x 3
Brick 2 x 8
Brick 4 x 10
Brick 4 x 12
Brick 4 x 18
Brick 4 x 4 Corner
Brick 4 x 6
Brick 8 x 16
Brick 8 x 8`

This exercise gave me some insight at how many parts exist. Did you know, that there are 64 "dog" shapes, but only 8 "cat"?

I hope this answer did help somehow.

This is the method to manipulate the catalog (Linux environment):

First, load catalog (tab-delimited list) into Excel, and export the column containing the part names to an ASCII file.

Now delete everything including "with" from the lines:

```
awk '{if (index($0," with") != 0) {print substr($0,1,index($0," with")-2)} else {print $0} }' parts.csv > temp.csv

```

Now sort and remove duplicate lines:

```
sort -u temp.csv > unique_shapes.csv

```

That's it. In Linux, there are 1000 ways to do this. I like to use commands that are easy to follow. Now one could refine the method and delete other items that don't qualify as shapes, e.g. cloth or the above mentioned "transparent" bricks. There are endless possibilities :)

P.S.: Reading the question, I just realize that I missed the "per year" part. But this topic is far from over, anyway.
> 6 votes

---
Tags: piece-information, history, shapes
---


# Question
Title: How can I efficiently pick up bricks off the floor?
My floor is covered in bricks. My bare feet can't take much more abuse. Is there a way of collecting up the bricks easily, or should I just get on my knees and start scooping them up with my hands?

# Answer
I actually have somewhere a special Lego picking up device. It has two wheels on the sides and when you slide it across the floor, these turn an attachment at the front. The attachement is basically like the thing on the side of a paddle boat, but taking up the whole width of the front, and it throws the lego pieces into the back of the device as it turns. It works marvelously on carpets!

*Edit:* It's a Brick Vac.
> 18 votes

# Answer
I know the sheet-on-the-carpet idea has been mentionned already, but why not go for a full LEGO solution?

And if you want another pure LEGO solution, I give you… the Brick-O-Dile!
> 11 votes

# Answer
The best idea is just using prevention: Put a big white cloth on the floor, and when you want to clean up, put the corners together and collect the parts from the middle.
> 10 votes

# Answer
I like to get out my Loader-Dozer (from LEGO Rock Raiders) to clean up my bricks:

Obviously this is inspired from the video game, in which the same vehicle serves to remove rubble:

I'm so meta like that.
> 10 votes

# Answer
A dustpan & brush will do a good job:

Just make sure you don't pick up too much dust with the bricks!
> 9 votes

# Answer
Hoover. Or bare feet. They both work well ;)

Seriously though, I'm a bare hands kind of guy if I've not followed the instructions, and split them all over the floor as opposed to doing it on the table or a large butlers tray.
> 3 votes

# Answer
One easy way to prevent them from getting into the carpet, is to first spread the Lego over a sheet that's on the ground. Then you can just pick up the corners and dump the pieces back where they are stored.
> 2 votes

# Answer
We have a rule that you only play with LEGO at the dining room table. The pieces are too little to be played with efficiently on the floor. It's much easier to tidy away as you have a smaller space that you can sweep into a box. Any small piece that gets dropped is picked up by the Roomba iRobot!
> 1 votes

# Answer
I am using my Lego Remote-Controlled Volvo L350F Wheel Loader (42030 set number) just pushing them into a one big pile and then using my own hands.
> 1 votes

---
Tags: cleaning
---


# Question
Title: How to tell if I need a neck kit for 21303 WALL•E?
I heard that some older 21303 WALL-E models (LEGO Ideas #012) have a weak neck connection and that LEGO fixed that in later production runs, and that if I have an older WALLE I can contact customer support to have a "neck kit" sent over.

How can I tell if my model is the older or the newer version? There's nothing obvious on the box, and there is no information on the official LEGO website.

# Answer
I contacted LEGO and this was their reply (emphasis mine):

> All LEGO® 21303 WALL-E sets produced during or after November 2015 already include the neck stability revision, which includes revised Building Instructions and extra parts. You can tell the production date by checking the manufacturing code which is usually printed in black ink on the clear tape holding the box together. **If your number is 47(S)5 or higher, your have the revised set.** You can also tell my looking at the Building Instruction number. This number is printed at the bottom corner on the back cover. **New revised BIs produced from November onwards will have the number 6162870 or 6162871.**

Unfortunately my BI number is 6146260, so I guess I have a model with the old neck connection.
> 6 votes

---
Tags: replacement-parts, ideas
---


# Question
Title: How do you open a logfile (.rdf) downloaded from an EV3 brick?
I have been logging data for a few sensors, and would like to import that data into Excel. What exactly do I need to do? I remember reading somewhere that LabView can export logging data (I have the Education version) but I cannot get LabView to open the datalog files.

# Answer
> 3 votes
In the LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 Education software:

* Open a new experiment.
* Go to the *Tools* menu and select *Data Log File Manager*.
* Browse to the the `.rdf` file and click the *Import* button. (It can be on the brick or on your computer.)
* Close the *Data Log File Manager*
* On the *Tools* menu, select *Export Datasets*
* Save the file as a `.csv` file
* Open the `.csv` file in Excel

---
Tags: ev3, ev3-g
---


# Question
Title: Are there more instructions for LEGO Architecture Studio?
I have a LEGO Architecture Studio set of 1210 pieces. The set have a book about architecture and techniques but it have no instructions for, e.g. build a pyramid, building or others. So I want to know if exists instructions for this, and where could I find them.

# Answer
I don't think so. I've found a few places that show nothing but the original book for it in terms of official LEGO content:

# Tom Alphin's book

While it isn't entirely instructions it does include lots of instructions: Tom Alphin's book *The Lego Architect*. It has been a while since I flipped through it so I just gave it another skim. I'd say that a third to a half of the pages are dedicated to detailed instructions. The rest of it is lovely inspiration so it isn't like filler.

# Brick Architect blog

Tom Alphin also has created a blog that has lots of LEGO architecture designs in it: http://brickarchitect.com/ but I didn't see any instructions there. It is still probably worth checking out for inspiration.
> 4 votes

---
Tags: sets, instructions, architecture
---


title: EV3 Wired Brick to Brick communication

text:
# Question
Title: EV3 Wired Brick to Brick communication
I'm currently working on a project for my intro to engineering class.

As it stands now, one brick is running a LabView program to intake data from a 'barcode' and another brick runs a Matlab program that reads a marble with the color-sensor, and can pass or deny the marble.

I'm having an issue in making the bricks communicate with each other. Because there will be many other bricks in operation where this project will be tested, BlueTooth communication would be unreliable.

From reading that I've done, there might be a way to perform hardwired communication by linking sensor port 4 of both bricks together, but I'm not sure of the specifics.

Both of the bricks are EV3, updated to the latest firmware.

# Answer
The reading you have done about connecting input port 4 is for the NXT, not the EV3. The NXT has a special feature on that port for RS485 serial communications. This is not present on the EV3 bricks.

The EV3 bricks are designed to be able to be daisy chained via USB. There are "Message" blocks in the EV3 software for sending messages from brick to brick. I'm not sure about LabView and Matlab, but I suspect that have a similar block/function for sending messages.
> 3 votes

---
Tags: ev3, programming, labview
---


title: help identify set from parts

text:
# Question
Title: help identify set from parts
Please help me identify which set either of these parts came from (tried using Bricklink but don't know how to describe the bricks to get the correct result)...

# Answer
The first assembly is from the #8087 LEGO Star Wars TIE Defender released in 2010.

The second assembly is not LEGO, but Mega Bloks (Mega Construx).
> 4 votes

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: Please help identify LEGO Batman vehicle
I'm trying to identify the set that this partial Batman vehicle belongs to. I believe the front center piece is part # 4623524 Roof tile 6x10, but all of the sets that contain that part don't seem to match the rest of the pieces.

Here is the bottom front of the boat as it has an unusual shape that I can't find:

# Answer
> 8 votes
It appears to actually be an Iron Man set, with the dark green #4623524 piece swapped out for the same piece in black from a Batman set.

The base is 76006-1 Iron Man: Extremis Sea Port Battle

Based on the 1x2 slope piece with the Batman symbol, the #4623524 piece likely comes from 76000-1 Arctic Batman vs. Mr. Freeze: Aquaman on Ice

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: In what colours can I build my whole model?
Is there a tool which, given a list of parts, will tell me the common colours, i.e. the colours that **all** the parts are available in?

# Answer
> 5 votes
I could not find a tool with this ability, so I made one using the Rebrickable API. You can find it here:

https://gist.github.com/ali1234/836ba792390c1a5feca9a3dcb35c14af

It parses an LDraw file and selects all the bricks of a specified colour (by LDraw colour number, eg yellow = 14), then for each unique piece it requests all available colours. Finally it calculates the intersection of all colours and prints a list.

Optional rarity parameter can be used to avoid very rare parts.

Example output:

```
./colourswap pirover.ldr 14
Parts:
3665, 2730, 3660, 3455, 3005, 3002, 3702, 3703, 3700, 3701, 3895
Common Colours:
Blue, Yellow, Black, White, Light Gray, Red, Light Bluish Gray

./colourswap pirover.ldr 14 20
Parts:
3665, 2730, 3660, 3455, 3005, 3002, 3702, 3703, 3700, 3701, 3895
Common Colours:
Black, Red

```

---
Tags: colour, cad
---


# Question
Title: My grandson wants a LEGO motor. What should I get?
My grandson wants a LEGO Power Motor to use with his gigantic box of Lego pieces. He is 11 years old and seems to know his way around the world of LEGO bricks. I, though, haven't a clue what he is asking for. I see things such as "EV3, NXT, RCX, and NXT-G and I'm confused. Can anyone help me? What is it I'm looking for?

# Answer
You say he is looking for a "Power Motor", which sounds like he is referring to the LEGO Power Functions line. The bare minimum you need to get a spinning motor would be one of the battery boxes and one of the motors.

Battery Boxes:

Motors:

(They also make a servo-motor and a train motor, but these are made for special purposes.)

---

The terms you listed however refer to the different generation of Mindstorms robotics.

* EV3: Current generation
* NXT: Previous generation
* RCX: First generation (rather old and difficult to use with modern computers)
* NXT-G: The GUI used to program the NXT robots.

Mindstorms do include motors, among other things, but are mainly geared towards use with robotics.
> 5 votes

# Answer
While Alexander's answer is completely correct, I wanted to provide an alternative that may work a little better while being a bit more expensive. Buying a motor and battery box is certainly the cheapest way to get a spinning motor, but depending on your grandson's collection, this might not provide the best experience.

In order to build creations that operate using motors, it is helpful to have the following in addition to a battery box and motor:

* Gears
* Axles
* Wheels that fit axles (the majority of wheels in the LEGO system are not designed to be driven by a motor)

These pieces form what is commonly branded "Technic", though they are found in non-Technic sets which sometimes feature moving parts.

It can also be helpful to see how motors are used within the larger LEGO system. The best way to get all the needed components and see them in action is to buy a complete set that is motorized. For example:

This set contains loads of axles, wheels, and gears, which together provide a great base for mechanical building. Sets like this are typically expensive ($150+), but could be worth it to you depending on your means.

Here's a list of currently available Technic sets that include electric motors.

Also, to directly respond to your confusion over the many acronyms, the current manually controlled motor system is called Control+ (the previous, and now incompatible, system was called Power Functions). Everything else (EV3, NXT, RCX, etc) is related to robotic and computer controlled motors.
> 5 votes

# Answer
If your grandson has lots of Technic pieces, such as gear wheels, axles, beams with holes etc (if he knows his way around Lego he should be able to confirm that pretty easily), the Lego have a good starter set which contains a motor, battery box and a few other pieces. It's how I started updating my old LEGO Technic sets from the early 90s to be motorised and eventually radio controlled.

https://shop.lego.com/en-NZ/LEGO-Power-Functions-Motor-Set-8293
> 1 votes

---
Tags: power-functions, accessories
---


title: Problem with running two XL motors

text:
# Question
Title: Problem with running two XL motors
We are trying to run our Grand Prix racing car on the IR remote control and would like to use two PF XL motors for the drive. One motor works fine on its own, but when both are connected, they stop running. Could it be that the battery pack power isn't strong enough for two motors?

# Answer
> 2 votes
As others have said, it's difficult know what is going without seeing your design. I would expect what you have described to work, but it is possible that your design is overloading the over current protection in the battery box.

PF battery boxes are designed to provide 800mA. Any more than this, and they have protection built in to cut power and prevent damage.

LEGO indicated that the XL motors draw 300mA under normal conditions, and Philo has the stalled current listed at 1800mA. A single stalled XL motor can overload the battery box, and two of them working hard can easily as well. See this answer for more information.

As a quick check, if you disconnect the motors from your car so that they can just run free, are they able to both run as expected? This should work fine and draw only 160mA if everything is connected and working properly. If not, one of your components must be performing abnormally or not be connected properly. As others have said, a photo would help us diagnose connection or build issues.

---
Tags: motor, power-functions, remote-control
---


title: How much does a LEGO character weigh?

text:
# Question
Title: How much does a LEGO character weigh?
I am doing a science project and I need a 50g passenger for a car. I need to know how much a LEGO character weighs!

# Answer
> 7 votes
## About 3g (2.98g)

Based on a small sample of Minifigure part data provided by Bricklink, a minifigure in it's most basic form (Head, Torso Assembly and Legs Assembley) weighs about 3g.

A small hairpiece or cap will add about 0.3g - 0.4g

Large hairpieces/headgear can add about 0.9g \- 1.0g.

---
Tags: minifigures, size
---


title: DFB LEGO Minifigures

text:
# Question
Title: DFB LEGO Minifigures
I'm a big fan of LEGO still to this day I was wondering are the DFB LEGO Minifigures available in Los Angeles cause I live there hoping to get the LEGO because they look so great.

# Answer
> 2 votes
I believe that no official retailers outside of Germany+Austria+Switzerland go these. I bought mine on amazon.de.

# Answer
> 2 votes
According to LEGO's German Store it is a:

> Retired Product

So if you're going to find it you'll need to look on ebay, Amazon, or other "unofficial" dealers.

---
Tags: minifigures
---


# Question
Title: Is it possible to repair LEGO box creases?
Has anyone tried ironing or flattening a creased lego box to diminish the appearance of the damage?

# Answer
Since creases in cardboard are not mere folds but instead constitute real damage to the box, I don't think you can undo a crease to make it look new again. Even "sort of" straightening it out will not do much good for a box - the damage (compacted internal structure) will remain visible and the area will remain a weak spot for further damage to develop. Finally, the printing is likely also damaged in the creased spot and this damage will show clearly if you manage to straighten out the crease.
> 4 votes

---
Tags: sets, repair
---


# Question
Title: How could I provide power and/or data coupling between train cars?
I'm trying to find a way to create a power/data coupling between train cars that can be connected/disconnected like the car coupling magnets. Has anyone done anything like this?

Background: This is so that I can supply power and control to LED lights (and maybe other devices) in the cars being pulled behind the engine, which will provide the power and control unit (Arduino based MCU)

I've tried using a micro USB magnetic connector, but they are too bulky and don't flex easily enough for this.

I'd love to find if anyone has engineered anything similar.

# Answer
# Power and Data

The classic solution to this for model trains is Digital Command Control (DCC). Basically, when you provide power over the rails, you also include a data signal riding on top of it. Each locomotive or car with a remote controlled function needs an electrical connection to the track and a modest microprocessor to decode DCC instructions. You can do something similar with LEGO trains, but it requires some customization.

For example, here's a modification that I made to one of my 9V motors to include a small microprocessor that controls the wheels instead of driving them directly:

This solution requires that you are using either 9V or 12V powered rails, and is also very expensive as it requires a number of motors that are no longer in production and are expensive on the secondary market.

# Data Only

Assuming that you are just powering a few LED lights in your cars or perhaps a small unloading mechanism that is used infrequently, you can probably get away with using a small lipo or similar battery for your cars. In that case, you just need to figure out a way to get access to control data.

If you just need one way data, you could use a very basic RF receiver/transmitter pair (e.g. receiver, transmitter). This gets tricky to scale up, as you need a separate frequency and transmitter for each car, but could work with a small number of controlled cars.

The solution that I would probably use if I were trying to do this would be to put an ESP8266 in each car:

These parts are quite cheap ($2 - $5) USD, can consume very little power if programmed properly, and provide a ton of flexibility. They provide and 80 MHz CPU and connect to Wifi networks, so you can control everything from a computer if you'd like. They also provide plenty of I/O pins and are more than fast enough for PWM, so you can have fine-grained control of everything and integrate sensors into locomotives and cars if desired.
> 4 votes

---
Tags: trains, electronics
---


# Question
Title: Is there an official list of Fabuland animal characters?
I found in an old box these animal characters.

They are all LEGO original (the logo is present on all their parts).

They are 25, maybe 30, years old. I think is the Fabuland series. I wonder if there is any way to discover how many they were and if there is any way to complete the collection.

# Answer
If you were to collect one of every animal type (excluding colour variations) you would at the very least need 20 Fabuland Figures:

* Bear/Panda/Racoon
* Bird
* Bunny
* Cat
* Cow
* Crocodile
* Bulldog
* Dog
* Poodle
* Elephant
* Fox
* Goat
* Hippo
* Horse
* Lamb
* Lion
* Mouse
* Monkey
* Pig
* Walrus

There are variations between figures in the copyright markings on the back of the legs, face printing between similar figures. In addition to the standard figures there are 72 variations of Fabuland Keychains.
> 6 votes

# Answer
I'm not sure how official of a list you are looking for, but there are 93 Fabuland minifigs listed on Bricklink:

Here's the full list from there:

```
fab1a   Fabuland Figure Bear 1
fab1c   Fabuland Figure Bear 2
fab1b   Fabuland Figure Bear 3
Fab2k   Fabuland Figure Bulldog 1
fab2e (Inv)     Fabuland Figure Bulldog 1 with Fire Helmet
fab2a (Inv)     Fabuland Figure Bulldog 1 with Police Hat
fab2b   Fabuland Figure Bulldog 2 with Police Hat
fab2d   Fabuland Figure Bulldog 3
fab2c (Inv)     Fabuland Figure Bulldog 3 with Police Hat
fab2j   Fabuland Figure Bulldog 3 with Police Hat and Post Pattern
fab2l   Fabuland Figure Bulldog 6
fab2g (Inv)     Fabuland Figure Bulldog 6 with Fire Helmet
fab2f   Fabuland Figure Bulldog 7 with Fire Helmet
fab2h   Fabuland Figure Bulldog 8 with Fire Helmet
fab2i   Fabuland Figure Bulldog 9 with Fire Helmet
fab3a   Fabuland Figure Bunny 1
fab3b   Fabuland Figure Bunny 2
fab3c   Fabuland Figure Bunny 3
fab3d   Fabuland Figure Bunny 4 - Collar Pattern
Fab3e   Fabuland Figure Cat 1
fab3f   Fabuland Figure Cat 2
fab3g   Fabuland Figure Cat 3
fab3h   Fabuland Figure Cat 4
fab3i   Fabuland Figure Cat 5
fab4a   Fabuland Figure Cow
fab4b   Fabuland Figure Crocodile 1
fab4c   Fabuland Figure Crocodile 2
fab4d   Fabuland Figure Crow 1 with Aviator Helmet and Black Eyes
fab4h   Fabuland Figure Crow 1 with Aviator Helmet and White Eyes
fab4e   Fabuland Figure Crow 2
Fab4f   Fabuland Figure Crow 3 with Aviator Helmet
Fab4g   Fabuland Figure Dog
fab5a   Fabuland Figure Elephant 1
fab5b   Fabuland Figure Elephant 2
fab5c   Fabuland Figure Elephant 3
fab5d   Fabuland Figure Elephant 4 with Yellow Hat and Black Eyes
fab5i   Fabuland Figure Elephant 4 with Yellow Hat and White Eyes
fab5e   Fabuland Figure Fox 1
fab5f   Fabuland Figure Fox 2 with Yellow Hat
fab5g   Fabuland Figure Goat 1
fab5h   Fabuland Figure Goat 2
fab6e   Fabuland Figure Hippo 1
fab6f   Fabuland Figure Hippo 2 - Necklace Pattern
fab001BHP   Fabuland Figure Hippo 3 - LEGO Centre / Birkenhead Point Sydney Pattern
fab6a   Fabuland Figure Horse 1
fab6b   Fabuland Figure Horse 2
fab6c   Fabuland Figure Horse 3
fab6d   Fabuland Figure Horse 4
fab002BHP   Fabuland Figure Horse 5 - LEGO Centre / Birkenhead Point Sydney Pattern
fab7a   Fabuland Figure Lamb 1
 fab7b  Fabuland Figure Lamb 2
Fab7h   Fabuland Figure Lamb 3
fab7d   Fabuland Figure Lamb 4
fab7e   Fabuland Figure Lion 1
fab7f   Fabuland Figure Lion 2
fab7g   Fabuland Figure Lion 2 with White Hat
fab8a   Fabuland Figure Monkey 1 with Light Gray Hat
fab8b   Fabuland Figure Monkey 1 with Red Hat
fab8f   Fabuland Figure Monkey 2
fab8h   Fabuland Figure Monkey 3 with White Hat
fab8d   Fabuland Figure Monkey 4
fab8e   Fabuland Figure Monkey 5
fab8i   Fabuland Figure Monkey 6 with White Hat
fab8c   Fabuland Figure Monkey 7
fab8g   Fabuland Figure Monkey 8
fab9a   Fabuland Figure Mouse 1
fab9b   Fabuland Figure Mouse 2
fab9d   Fabuland Figure Mouse 3
fab9c   Fabuland Figure Mouse 4
fab9e   Fabuland Figure Mouse 4 with White Cap
fab9f   Fabuland Figure Mouse 6
fab9g   Fabuland Figure Mouse 7
fab10a  Fabuland Figure Panda 1
fab10b  Fabuland Figure Panda 2
fab10c  Fabuland Figure Parrot
fab11a  Fabuland Figure Pig 1
fab11b  Fabuland Figure Pig 2
fab11c  Fabuland Figure Pig 3
fab11d  Fabuland Figure Pig 4
fab11e  Fabuland Figure Pig 5
fab11f  Fabuland Figure Pig 6
fab11g  Fabuland Figure Pig 7
fab7c   Fabuland Figure Poodle
fab14a  Fabuland Figure Poodle with Black Eyes
fab14b  Fabuland Figure Poodle with White Eyes
fab12a  Fabuland Figure Raccoon 1
fab12b  Fabuland Figure Raccoon 2
fab12d  Fabuland Figure Raccoon 3
fab12h  Fabuland Figure Raccoon 4
fab12c  Fabuland Figure Raccoon 5
fab12f  Fabuland Figure Walrus 1
fab12e  Fabuland Figure Walrus 2
fab12g  Fabuland Figure Walrus 3 - Anchor Pattern

```

You can purchase these on Bricklink as well in order to complete your collection.
> 3 votes

# Answer
The Fabuland figures and sets were produced between 1979 and 1989. According to the BrickLink Catalog - which has the most comprehensive list of LEGO minifigures ever released - there are 93 Fabuland characters. Some of these however are slight variations (i.e. same animal, different color torso/legs/arms). You can find the full list here: List of LEGO Fabuland Figures

While some of the Fabuland characters can still be found fairly easily, others are very rare. Also, as the figures are so old, it can be difficult to find them in good condition. As demonstrated by the crow in the last row of your picture, the facial printing didn't stand up well to regular play. The hip and arm joints can also get very loose if the figures were played with regularly.
> 2 votes

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Tags: minifigure-identification, fabuland
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# Question
Title: What parts are in each bag for the Star Wars Death Star 75159?
I have two opened death stars. Some bags are unopened and others are mixed. I need a checklist of what comes in each bag.

I would like to sell one and keep one.

# Answer
> 1 votes
I have an idea that might just work for you. You clearly have two of everything that you need, so I recommend use Bricklink and go through your list selecting the quantity of bricks required from the pile of bricks that have been opened. That should leave you a pile that you do not need (for the second build) This will be a good starting point. Good luck.

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Tags: sets, star-wars
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title: Why are my Technic blue pins breaking?

text:
# Question
Title: Why are my Technic blue pins breaking?
These connectors are cracking very easily:

# Answer
This happens if the parts are under a lot of strain, usually as a result of unevenly distributed weights or improper gear assemblies.

Also make sure that the parts are being handled gently and teeth aren't being used to remove them. Since these can sometimes be hard to remove, students (especially younger ones) often try to use their teeth to grip them while pulling them out. This will almost always lead to the pegs breaking down.
> 3 votes

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Tags: technic
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# Question
Title: What is the writing on this map tile, originally from Indiana Jones sets?
I have this LEGO piece that is a map. It appears to be a map of the Middle East, specifically Israel and Jordan. It also has some writing on it. Any idea what the writing is of? It is a 2x2 tile.

# Answer
I have this piece, and I don't believe there is enough detail in the printing to see what this says. I'm also fairly certain this isn't intended to be actual text, but just to look like words. Here's a higher resolution image of that piece:

I believe there is too much bleed to make out words at this scale. Mine certainly isn't legible even under high magnification.

However, there is a clue as to what this piece was meant to say if there were proper text printed on it. This appears to be a page from the diary prop from Indiana Jones: The Last Crusade. I believe that TLG based the printing for this part off of the following map:

This map is seen in the DVD special features for The Last Crusade, and is known as the "Map with no names".

Again, I don't believe this is meant be the actual text, particularly because this piece appeared later in unlicensed sets, so it isn't just an Indiana Jones part.
> 12 votes

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Tags: piece-information
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# Question
Title: Please identify these two kinds of Lego bricks (circa 1990's)
I recently bought a lot of Lego that was mostly 1990's bricks, and I had a few things I couldn't identify. One I found on Bricklink, but the other two are baffling me. Here is the first one, a different sort of hinged plate that I hadn't seen before:

You would think these would be "modified plates," but I couldn't find them.
Even stranger are these pieces (two varieties):  These obviously allow for perpendicular placement of other pieces, and again I would think they were modified plates, but they aren't, at least in Bricklink.

I'm most curious to see how these pieces were used in sets. Thank you!

# Answer
The first two are:

Hinge Plate 2 x 4 with Articulated Joint - Male

Hinge Plate 2 x 4 with Articulated Joint - Female

They are still used in modern sets sometimes.

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The last two are called "bracket" pieces. They have not appeared in any recent sets.

Bracket 2 x 3 - 1 x 3 (Train Signal Stand)

Bracket 2 x 2 - 1 x 4
> 6 votes

# Answer
I found the left bracket on Swooshable, a website that collects SNOT building techniques (I filtered by degree of 90). As you can guess, it was used for attaching things sideways, and appeared in 13 sets from 1987 to 1999.

Swooshable doesn't list the other piece, but Bricklink categorized the first one as "Bracket", which led me to the second piece, a train signal stand. It appeared in sets from 1980 to 1988.
> 1 votes

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Tags: piece-information, part-identification
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# Question
Title: How can I tell if my gold C-3PO minifigure is legit?
I just bought a used gold C-3PO (not the 14k version, but the 10,000-made version). There are some places under the arms and on the right foot where there is no gold paint. I *think* that they are all like this, but I'm not sure. I'm looking for someone to verify that I didn't just get taken to the cleaners. I can still open an eBay case if I need to.

# Answer
> 5 votes
Yes, that sounds like the genuine article - LEGO was unable to chrome each part separately, so there are bare spots where you describe. Only the customs will have been made up of individually chromed parts.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Yes, I have an original chrome gold CP30 and mine also has those bare spots. Like mentioned earlier, LEGO painted these units as a whole and not separately... so that's what's essentially makes them legit, and the bare spots are all the same on the originals. I have done research on it after I realized that's what I had was the worth a pretty penny haha

# Answer
> 2 votes
Don't worry my friend, those "unchromed" spots are because of the regular use of that minifigure.

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Tags: minifigures, star-wars
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# Question
Title: How can I make a spiral staircase with basic blocks at right angles?
Quite simply, how do I make a spiral like a staircase, but with only these blocks?

There is also a 8x2 block, but my brother has it. Because it is quite an old set, I need a spiral staircase without 45 degree angles. The best I have made is this...

....made with these components:

What is a better alternative?

For Ambo100, it is not needed to support any weight, I merely make these things for pleasure. Additionally, I require it to continue for infinite iterations of layers. And obviously, it need to be vertical. Finally, I would like it to be solid when "running" along it, just to be annoying. =)

Important: I forgot to note this, but my set is based around the 2 x 4 blocks.

# Answer
Based on the limited brick options, and the "it needs to be solid" constraint, I present my "Minecraft Spiral Stair" in LEGO form, and to provide "inifite height", I've gone for a "hung" support option:

1. Start with two 2x2, a 2x4 and a 2x6 in this configuration:
2. Add more steps as you need rotating around the lower 2x2 brick:

(Key: Yellow: 2x2, Blue: 2x4, White: 2x6)
> 5 votes

# Answer
Depending upon the structural integrity required, you can connect the 4x2 bricks by one corner peg consistently (upper left most corner when viewed horizontally) stacked on top of each other, yet rotated such that the side of the brick is against the lower level peg (in upper one from the left on the lower brick). This will make a weak spiral yet with adjustable and relatively tight angles with one step per brick layer.
> 3 votes

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Tags: building
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