# Question
Title: How should I go about buying 10-20 generic minifigs?
Not a collector, just looking to fill out a few things with sort of generic minifigures. I don't care a ton about what they look like, or even if they're all unique. Just looking for a good variety of maybe 20 minifigs.

It's not obvious to me the easiest and cheapest way to do this.

# Answer
I could suggest checking Bricklink stores in your area/country. It is usually cheaper to buy entire minifigure that individual parts. Unless you need specific items.

Stores have variable inventory, but you need to look for `Minifigs` section, which usually goes after `Sets`, and then `Parts` sections (again, depends on what is being sold in the store). Here you have an option to check all of them or go through individual categories. You might find minifigures you are looking for in `Town` category.
> 5 votes

# Answer
eBay has various auctions for minifig lots; this auction has 10 for $20 (plus shipping). BrickLink might well be cheaper overall, if you can find a seller near you who will allow pickup.

I don't know the seller; I just chose the first hit for `minifig lot` that seemed to match your criteria.
> 7 votes

# Answer
You can get 11 generic minifigs in one set: 40516: Everyone is Awesome!

And you get lots of tiles and plates too.
> -1 votes

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Tags: minifigures, shopping
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# Question
Title: I bought a box of used LEGO and found these 4 bags in it
No pieces stand out. I see just one minifigure with a red body without anything indicating what it is. Any idea what set it belongs to?

# Answer
This is set 31025 Mountain Hut from the Creator theme. The Medium Blue window panes are in this set, and then the minifigure head you see in the top right bag identified this set.
> 39 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Where can one find the documentation for the LEGO Mindstorms Robot Inventor software?
Is the documentation (either official or unofficial) of the programming "language" for the LEGO Mindstorms Robot Inventor software available somewhere? Preferably online, without requiring the download of an application. (I have looked at the official LEGO site for the Mindstorms product line, but found nothing there)

To elaborate, I'm looking for a resource detailing the available commands, their possible parameters, expected results, etc.

# Answer
# Official Docs

## Word Blocks

The *Word Block Descriptions* for the block language (Scratch) are under *Help & Support* in the *Settings*.

*Settings* are found by clicking on the gear icon on the home page.

# Basic Python

For Python, there is a *Knowledge Base* on the side of the screen. Click the book icon to show or hide it.

## Advanced Python

There is also separate documentation for the low-level Python APIs for advanced users.

# Unofficial Docs
> 12 votes

# Answer
Recently following web-page appeared: https://lego.github.io/MINDSTORMS-Robot-Inventor-hub-API/

I learned it from David Lechner (https://github.com/gpdaniels/spike-prime/issues/7#issuecomment-850643719). I haven't seen an official announcement, but the URL implies it's from LEGO.
> 5 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, programming, robot-inventor
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# Question
Title: unknown pieces of a set - stickers on round corner bricks
I have found these pieces in a bulk purchase and I would like to find out the set. They have sticker on it. Maybe a star wars set? many thanks

# Answer
9450 Epic Dragon Battle is the only set that contains part 95188pb12L - Brick, Round Corner 6 x 6 with Slope 33 Edge, Facet Cutout with 3 Diamonds and Black Line Pattern Model Left Side (Sticker) - Set 9450
> 6 votes

# Answer
It looks like 95188pb12L leading to set 9450 Epic Dragon Battle
> 2 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Help identifying potentially two LEGO sets - Hogwart's and Star Wars?
I just received a LEGO Eiffel Tower set from a very generous neighbor. With the set, she included two other bags of LEGO pieces just in case the Eiffel Tower set was not complete and had pieces of it in those two bags. Well, those two bags also included some of these pieces that were already created. One of them appears to be Hogwart's Castle. However, I am not sure what the other set might be. Do any of these pieces look familiar to anyone (particularly the set that looks like it may be a Star Wars set)? Thanks!

# Answer
> 14 votes
You’re correct that the one set looks like Hogwarts. Specifically 5378 Hogwarts Castle (3rd edition). There are three Dolores Umbridge figures, only one with solid pink legs like in your photo. This version only appears in the 3rd edition Hogwarts.

The Star Wars set looks like 8039 Venator-Class Republic Attack Cruiser.

Neither set contains Boat, 14 x 5 x 2 with Oarlocks without Hollow Inside Studs though it does appear in 75954 Hogwarts Great Hall so it could reasonably be part of the collection of someone interested in Harry Potter sets.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Grand piano page 269 of instructions - are the gears suppose to stop after a quarter turn or keep going when reversing directions
The directions show the gears are suppose to move counter clockwise. When I follow the directions on page 268-269, and push the reverse button on the Lego power-up app for the Grand Piano, the gears turn for a quarter turn counterclockwise and then stop. Are the gears suppose to continuing turning? The gears run fine when running clockwise.

# Answer
> 9 votes
**Tl;dr** \- Your piano appears to be functioning correctly. The step you mention appears to be resetting the gear to a known position. The playback direction is clockwise and free of restriction. The reset process is counter-clockwise and is restricted by another mechanism.

---

For reference, here are the instructions as a massive PDF.

It looks like you're following the mini-instructions after step 352. They include pairing your device to the piano and resetting the piano for playback.

The relevant step instructs you to press the button that looks like a gear being turned counter-clockwise.

This action should cause the axle driving the piano to rotate counter-clockwise as shown in the model view included in the step.

It looks like there is a one-way mechanism that is designed to prevent the axle from turning past a specific position when rotating counter-clockwise. It is visible in the step on the left side of the model view.

Notice that the orange Technic, Liftarm Thick 1 x 2 - Axle Hole is bound to the same axle as the gear shown rotating. Notice too that it is currently blocked by the light bluish gray Technic, Liftarm Thick 1 x 5. This liftarm pivots on a red Technic, Axle 2 Notched in its leftmost hole.

The light bluish gray liftarm is free to pivot and will allow the orange liftarm to pass when the axle is rotating clockwise (the orange liftarm contacts the light bluish gray liftarm from below causing it to raise out of the way).

Without having the set, I am guessing that the axle should rotate clockwise when playing.

This mechanism appears to provide a consistent rotational starting point so that the axle is aligned to a known position at the beginning of the sheet music. The axle looks to function as a crankshaft of sorts. The mini-instructions include the process to reset the crankshaft so that that piano is playing in sync with the sheet music being shown in the app.

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Tags: building, instructions, gears, ideas
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# Question
Title: Can the new road plates be used to build ramps or hills?
I have the new LEGO City road plates, and I'm wondering if they can be used to create ramps or hills. Here's the road plate system I'm referring to:

Ramps and hills weren't easy to create with the older baseplate road systems:

I'm wondering if this is easier with the new system.

# Answer
I tried this out recently with the new road plates. Because the new system is composed of proper plates with connection points on the underside, this is fairly simple to do. It really comes down to selecting parts that can allow the road to be held in place securely at an appropriate angle.

Here's what I did using plates with clips and handles:

If you were building this for a display, you could get by with many fewer clips, but I was building this with my 5 year old, so it needed to be able to survive significant play. It's held up just fine for us.

Here's the final result with some bricks added to conceal the open sides:
> 41 votes

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Tags: building
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# Question
Title: How can I remove permanent marker from a LEGO brick?
I need to remove permanent marker from hard plastic. How can I do it?

# Answer
I use pure Eucalyptus oil. It works wonderfully. Keep in mind that if you are using it on LEGO, it will also remove the original printing (but won't harm the plastic itself), so I wouldn't recommend it in that case. But other than that Eucalyptus oil can remove marker, paint, glue-residue, and all kinds of gunk much better and faster than products like Goo-Gone. I'm an artist and use it on a regular basis. Eucalyptus oil is available in small bottles at health-food stores, larger bottles at pharmacies (that's what I use), and also at some Asian stores (usually the cheapest).
> 7 votes

# Answer
I've used a dry erase marker, over the permanent, to remove it from a white board. I don't know if that'd work on Lego or not.
> 3 votes

# Answer
I know it's not the most cost-effective way, but I used to use gasoline on a rag to remove a lot of markings on plastics of all kinds. It won't warp the plastic when used sparingly on a rag.

The only downside is that it may "smear" the marker, depending on the kind of marker that was used.
> 1 votes

# Answer
Rubbing alcohol has worked for me.
> 1 votes

# Answer
Using something you may already have in your home:

Aerosol hairspray

Spraying this over permanent marker allows the marker to be wiped off, and then you can rinse off the residue in warm water. I've used or seen used this remedy on many types of plastic in my life, but I can't recall if I've used it on LEGO pieces before. I think I did use it on a yellow brick some 12+ years ago, but time makes the details unclear.
> 1 votes

# Answer
Assuming it's regular alcohol based permanent markers, 70% Isopropyl alcohol will wipe it off easily. Coat a swab or wet a tissue, don't apply it directly to the brick - it slightly eats away at the material, but not to the degree where you'll shorten the lifespan of the plastic without repeated cleaning or prolonged exposure.
> 1 votes

# Answer
Dry erase marker works great but often just rubbing it out with a dry paper towel works also.
> -3 votes

# Answer
Nail polish remover (or purer acetone if you happen to work in a lab) works really well. You can either soak the piece in it (I like to use a small tupperware container) if it is really covered, or wipe it away with a paper towel wetted with the solution.

This works because the sharpie in is a non-polar molecule and thus will dissolve in solvents like acetone. Rubbing alcohol also works like this, but is markedly less effective.
> -3 votes

# Answer
Using nail polish remover works really well. You can soak the piece in a small tub of it or wet a cotton ball down with the solution and rub the piece. The part that was rubbed will be a little rough, but scrubbing it with water for 30 seconds or so will remove it.
> -3 votes

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Tags: cleaning
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# Question
Title: Can an EV3 power a buggy motor with the NXT to 9V extension cable?
On Philo's motor comparison webpage, https://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm, it says that the buggy motor (42908 lego id, 5292 bricklink id) is not recommended to be powered by an RCX as the RCX cannot provide enough current for the beast.

How about an EV3 with the NXT to 9V conversion cable (bricklink id x1676)? Could the EV3 power the beast (both interested in the EV3 powered by rechargeable batteries or powerful AA batteries)?

Has anyone seen such setup? I cannot find any data about how much current the EV3 can deliver...

# Answer
> 4 votes
The motor drivers are protected by resettable fuses. Each fuse protects two output ports (A/B or C/D). The amount of current that can be delivered depends on the time that it is applied. The 1.1A listed in the schematic is the max sustained current. The datasheet for the resettable fuses provides more details.

The 2.2A trip current listed in the data sheet is still less than the 3.2A stall current for the motor, so the EV3 will probably struggle with this motor.

Note: The full EV3 schematic is included in the *Hardware Developer Kit* available for download on the official LEGO MINDSTORMS download page.

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Tags: ev3, motor, electronics
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title: Gearing problem

text:
# Question
Title: Gearing problem
I have a technic MOC with lots of gears which runs fine when motorized with the Control+ L motor, the motor itself attached to the "dumb" battery box that would have been included with the Osprey but which you now can buy separately.

The Philo home page https://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm says a loaded Control+ motor has the following characteristics:

8,81 N.cm torque, 198 rpm

I then wanted more power/speed so I tried to replace the Control+ L motor with the race buggy motor and battery box as in set 8287 "motor box"... The motor stalled immediately.

The Philo home page says the race buggy motor has the following characteristics

5.7 N.cm torque, 780 rpm

This is for the outer output, the inner output which I'm using is geared up by a factor 23/17 so I expect the characteristics to be:

4.2 N.cm torque, 1055 rpm...

So understandable, higher speed but less torque -\> motors might stall. I have in my technic MOC 2 pairs of gears gearing up by a factor 25 (8 tooth gear and 40 tooth gear, two pairs) I tried to replace the gears by 2 pairs of bevel gears, the 12 tooth gear and 36 tooth gear. 2 such pairs giving a speedup of factor 9.

So taking this modification in mind, I expect the torque to increase by a factor of 25/9 and the speed to decrease by a factor 9/25 Giving me

11,6 N.cm and 379 rpm

Which is clearly a greater torque than the Control+ motor, so I expected it to work. Unfortunately it didn't; the contraption moves slowly for about 1 second and then stalls...

Am I making a mistake in my reasoning? Are there other factors to consider? Or do I just have bad luck with my buggy motor (or good luck with my Control+ L motor) ? Perhaps the friction of bevel gears is significantly higher than the older 8 and 40 tooth gears ?

I used in both cases new AA alkaline batteries, all from the same brand.

# Answer
> 2 votes
I think the issue here is with your power unit - battery box. It sounds like your motor is consuming more current than battery box can provide.

RC motor (5292) is known to be power hungry and as far as I know the only LEGO control unit that can provide enough of it is Electric RC Race Buggy Battery / Receiver Unit with Auxiliary Output (6272c01):

Electric RC Race Buggy Battery / Receiver Unit without Auxiliary Output (6293c01) maybe as well.

Any other LEGO battery box will have issues with its current/thermal protection kicking in sooner than RC motor can provide its full potential.

This is issue was one of the reasons why 3rd party controllers/power units became available.

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Tags: technic, gears
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# Question
Title: What does 18853 (Friends flower) connect to besides 37695 (Plant stem with 3 leaves) or 11609 (Friends accessories star)?
What does 18853 (Friends flower) connect to besides 37695 (Plant stem with 3 leaves) or 11609 (Friends accessories star)?

Is there a good way to attach it to common plant stems (3741) like this one:

# Answer
> Is there a good way to attach it to common plant stems (3741)?

Although strictly a non-official connection, the Technic pneumatic hose (or its rigid variant) can fit over the plant stem, and thus the Friends flower pin. If the connecting piece is cut short enough, the resulting assembly might even look somewhat good.
> 5 votes

# Answer
> What does 18853 (Friends flower) connect to?

Most of Friends animals have this type of connection to attach accessories like flower you mention, bow or other. Coule of examples:

Dolphin, Friends / Elves, Jumping with Bottom Axle Holder with Medium Azure Eyes with Eyelashes Pattern

Bear, Friends / Elves, Baby Cub, Sitting with Black Nose and Claws and Dark Azure Eyes Pattern

Number of hair pieces have attachment point for accessories like the flower:

Tile, Round 1 x 1 with Bar and Pin Holder gives an option to attach these kind of accessories to usual studs, as this has been used several times on this picture:

> Is there a good way to attach it to common plant stems (3741)

If you define "good way" such as attaching stud to anti-stud then no. Both ends of these elements are of the same type.
> 4 votes

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Tags: building, compatibility, friends, connections
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# Question
Title: My copy of Republic Fighter tank 7679 doesn't have a part count. Is it legit?
Oddly enough it has no part count on the box whatsoever and I bought it from a Italian seller on Bricklink. It was quite expensive. I doubt this is a counterfeit. But you can't be to sure. Why is there no part count? Is that a thing that happens with some LEGO sets?

# Answer
LEGO boxes in Europe do not have piece count on the front. There is no legal requirement within EU to present this information on packaging.

Actually, depending on where you live, it may be odder to see boxes *with* part count on its front.
> 5 votes

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Tags: star-wars
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# Question
Title: Unsure what set this bag of small tan and grey elements goes to
I found this bag and I'm not sure what set it goes to.

# Answer
> 8 votes
The large number of tan 1x1 bricks with studs on adjacent sides means this can only be one of a very small number of sets. The other parts make it appear that this is a bag from Assembly Square (10255):

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Duplo block with facecloth or towel on

text:
# Question
Title: Duplo block with facecloth or towel on
I'm currently kitting out a new bathroom for my Lego son, and I would like to modify a set of drawers, including using Duplo pieces as labels for the drawer contents. I've found Duplo blocks for toothbrushes/toothpaste, toilet rolls, shampoo/soap etc like these ones:

but I'd like one for the drawer containing flannels (washcloths for faces).

So I'm looking for a Duplo block, preferably 1x2x2, with a picture of a towel or a washcloth or similar, but can't find a suitable one. Can anyone suggest a suitable block?

(also a 1x2x2 toothbrush/toothpaste block, if one exists)

# Answer
> 8 votes
I have gone through 32 pages of 1x2x2 bricks, and there do not appear to be any towel bricks. (There are, however alternate soaps)

The only sets that I can find with towels all use cloth ones

# Answer
> 2 votes
Sorry, I could not find any towel blocks, and trust me, I have looked and looked just as @Chronocidal did, and the closest block I could find was this and sorry its not even Duplo: https://www.brickowl.com/catalog/lego-brick-1-x-6-x-5-with-green-towel-sticker-hairdressing-salon-3754 But I guess you could take a white brick: https://www.brickowl.com/catalog/lego-duplo-brick-1-x-2-x-2-with-bottom-tube-15847-76371 and custom design one of your own by designing a sticker and adding it on.

# Answer
> 2 votes
You might get a good result with a water-transfer decal. However that could be quite permanent.

A satisfactory effect might be achieved by simply printing a small icon onto some paper, cut out with scissors, and then glue it to the brick. You can also get sheets of plain white or clear sticker paper for printing onto directly, fill the page with icons to save paper.

Glues and adhesives tend to stick poorly to smooth plastic, so the sticker could be peeled off easily. Or if you want to make it permanent, tooth up the plastic with some sandpaper before applying.

Another option might be to paint directly on the block with model paints, though this would need a steady hand and an artistic ability.

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Tags: duplo
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# Question
Title: Can anyone tell me where to donate a lot of Hero Factory parts and pieces?
Wondering where to donate gently used Hero Factory parts and pieces. Surely there are people who might want them. Not sure if Goodwill will take them. I have already tried eBay. Any other ideas? I'd hate to put them in the trash. I'm in the metro Atlanta, GA area. Thanks!

# Answer
If I were you, I'd try one of the following:

1. If you wish to get some money for them, post them as an auction on eBay without a minimal (reserve) price. This way somebody will surely bid at least some amount, and the lot will be off your hands and on it's way to someone who actually wants it at least a bit.
2. Posting on local marketplace boards (like Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, etc.) could attract some interested recipients as well, either for money or for free.
3. If you don't want to get any compensation for it, you could try local kindergartens - I suppose they would welcome additional toys for the kids there.
4. If all else fails, you could just pack them up in a bag, attach a note abut what it is and what are your intentions, then leave the bag in a playground for someone to find. This is the most risky option, as parents in your area might be rightfully hesitant to let their kids pick up anything remotely suspicious, but it surely beats throwing the lot in the trash.
> 2 votes

# Answer
Have you tried a local elementary school? In the UK, Lego is very popular in therapy sessions, and for social support groups.
> 1 votes

# Answer
For donating LEGO, I would look at local libraries. Many public libraries in my region of the US have "LEGO clubs" and are always looking for spare brick. I also agree with an earlier answer that you might want to look for any adult LEGO clubs in your area. Even if the adults fans are not interested in what you have they often have connections to people who want spare LEGO.

Another source for donations could be FIRST LEGO LEAGUE robotic teams in your area. These teams are often in need of spare parts and even Hero Factory pieces can be used for decorating the robots.

Whatever you do, don't put them in the trash. ABS is a very recyclable material, but furthermore LEGO is in high demand. It would be multiple levels of shame to put it in a landfill. My guess is that Goodwill wil take them, as I often bring the clone bricks to thrift shops when I separate them from second hand LEGO piles that I grab at yard sales or Facebook marketplace.
> 1 votes

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Tags: bionicle
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title: more help identifying material

text:
# Question
Title: more help identifying material
Ok, since my daughter has gotten into LEGO extensively lately, and I've pulled out all the bins that I got good deals on from prior years (like back in 2018/2019, I found one other (hopefully last) bin with some LEGO in it. Could anyone help me identify any of these potential sets or parts of sets? Thanks so much!!!

# Answer
> 2 votes
I'm definitely seeing (parts of) the following sets in the photos:

# Answer
> 1 votes
You can do some research yourself if you want to dig around the set database over at Brickset (https://brickset.com)

Just glancing at the figs that are in the photos, most of this stuff is mid 1990s era sets. Ex: The ufo figures are from https://brickset.com/sets/theme-Space/subtheme-UFO

I'd just take a look at BS lego catalog around those years and you will probably be able to pick out the sets you have.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I do see that the bottom one with all the pink and green, is probably from lego friends set: Looks like this set:https://www.lego.com/en-us/product/beach-house-41428 And I do see some medieval figurines so its probably from this set: https://www.ebay.com/p/141206538 And I also see moon rovers so here: ROVER

OH and is that INDIANA JONES?! : INDI

yes it is and also race carsRACECARS

And You're Welcome!

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification
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title: Pentagonal shield attachments

text:
# Question
Title: Pentagonal shield attachments
Do the Pentagonal Power Shields have 2 anti-studs on the back. Would they attach more firmly to a LegoBrick, Modified 1 x 1 x 1 2/3 with Studs on 1 Side then a basic headlight brick?

# Answer
Yes, they have two anti-studs. You can see both through the trans-clear version of this part on the back of 76193 The Guardians’ Ship.

Like I mentioned in my comment, it appears LEGO is comfortable using a single stud to hold this piece when attached by its anti-studs. This can be seen when looking at Minifigure, Shield Pentagonal, though it may be the case that adding a second stud to the shield was undesirable for another reason (mold issues, proximity to edge, difficulty removing the tile from the shield, etc).

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Using the modified brick you’ve suggested will definitely provide a stronger connection in addition to preventing rotation. I haven’t been able to find an official stance from LEGO on whether they recommend connecting to multiple anti-studs with the same piece.
> 6 votes

# Answer
The basic headlight brick or Ehrling brick https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=4070 has its side stud recessed half a plate, so there is a bottom lip that's in the way to attach any plate or tile in the central tubes... Any other element with 1x1 or 1x2 studs fits rather tight in the tubes, tighter than other anti-studs but it's a perfectly legal building technique as far as I know...
> 2 votes

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Tags: design
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# Question
Title: Remove 3, maybe 4, decades old PVA glue from Lego
A friend of mine gave me a large crate of Lego that he found in the house he just bought.
It appears to be several sets from the late 70's. (I spotted the building instructions for the 850 and 851 Technic sets in there.)

Unfortunately that crate also contained a bunch of other stuff, including a large plastic squirt-bottle of PVA wood glue. The bottle burst open and the glue leaked into some of the Lego.
I have about 500 bricks fused together with several booklets of building instructions into a sort of modern sculpture.

I would like to get the glue off, without destroying the bricks, but this glue has been there for 30, maybe 40 years.

The usual approach for dissolving old PVA glue is soaking it with hot water, white vinegar or methylated spirits (in order of aggressiveness).

But would that be safe for the Lego?
As far as I know hot water, if too hot, might soften/deform Lego bricks.
Methylated spirits is, in general, not safe to use on plastics and will probably affect the plastic used in Lego bricks.
White vinegar is, as far as I know, safe to use on Lego.

So I'm thinking of just soaking everything in warm water (say 40 degrees Celsius) for a couple of days and seeing how that goes. If that doesn't dissolve the glue I can try again with white vinegar.

Does anyone see a problem with that? Does anyone know a better way of doing this?

# Answer
Take it for what it is, I am not a material scientist and this is not a guarantee that the following information will work in your case.

---

I believe your approach is correct, or at least as good as you'll be able to get considering the material properties of the bricks and the glue.

LEGO bricks are made of ABS plastic (at least after 1963).

According to data from the Cole-Parmer Chemical Compatibility Database, ABS plastic is very susceptible to damage from nearly all the normal solvents used to remove PVA glue.

| Chemical | Compatibility with ABS plastic |
| --- | --- |
| Acetone | D - Severe Effect: Not recommended for any use. |
| Methanol (Methyl Alcohol) | D - Severe Effect: Not recommended for any use. |
| Vinegar | A - Excellent |

Vinegar looks like it may work, especially if you expose the glue to soften it before attempting to remove it from the bricks. Unfortunately, the instructions are almost certainly beyond saving.

Concerning heat, ABS appears to be safe until around 80°C (176°F) when it starts to deform. This is good considering PVA softens as early as 30°C (86°F). However, as Alex points out, LEGO recommends using water no warmer than 40°C (104°F).

You might try submerging the LEGO-berg in hot water for an extended period of time (articles I found suggested multiple hours, changing the water as needed) then using a syringe or spray bottle to apply vinegar to one area at a time. With some force, the weakened glue should release. Assuming it has weakened sufficiently, wiping with a course cloth should remove the residue.

It is unclear in my searching whether time is a significant factor in the susceptibility of PVA glue to heat. It is a resin, so there may be some long-term curing that prevents the glue from re-softening, but I couldn't find a definitive source one way or the other.

As an additional consideration, exposure to extended heat, chemical treatments, and physical cleaning may impact the surface quality of your bricks. Additionally, if the solvents present in the glue when it was applied to the surface also affect ABS, the glue may be bonded to the structure of the brick, not just the surface. If this is the case, you will not be able to salvage the brick without a destructive process like sanding that will inevitably leave signs.

If you can identify a small chunk of bricks to test the process on, you can at least see if heat and vinegar are a potential solution for the rest of your bricks.
> 16 votes

# Answer
Self-answer to let you all know how things went.

Warm water was having some effect but it took forever. So Saturday morning I went to the DIY store and got myself a 5 liter jerrycan of white vinegar.

Taking my small test-clump I dropped it in a a bucket with a 50/50 mix of warm water and vinegar. In about 5 minutes the top 2-3 millimeter of the glue had turned in a slimy gooey layer. Rinsing that of with a brush and exposing the still solid glue underneath started the dissolve the glue underneath as well.

Took less than 15 minutes to break up the whole clump and to brush the Lego pieces more or less clean. The more I could break up the clump the quicker it went. After that I gave them a second rinse in another bucket with water/vinegar mix just to get rid of the remaining residue and finally rinsed them off under running tap-water.

The first bucket now contained a very nasty slimy water/vinegar/glue mix.
I threw that away and refilled with fresh warm water/vinegar.
Stuck the large clump in (it was too large to submerge completely, part of it stuck above water) and let it soak for another 10 minutes.
Was then able to break up the under-water section in smaller pieces so eventually I was able to get everything soaking.

After another 10 minutes I had broken up the entire clump into small clumps each containing maybe 10 to 15 Lego pieces. Left these to soak some more.
Another 15 minutes later I had freed all Lego pieces and just needed to brush/rinse the remaining goo off.

Conclusion: Vinegar worked really well. Mixing it with warm water might have somewhat sped up the process as well.
There doesn't seem to be any negative impact on the Lego bricks.
> 13 votes

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Tags: cleaning, disassembly, glue
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# Question
Title: Simplest/cheapest way to build a tensegrity model?
My daughter saw some beautiful and interesting *tensegrity* (tensional integrity) LEGO models on the Internet:

and she would like to get one for her birthday.

We've got a few Harry Potter LEGO sets at home, but the only chain I've found was from "Hungarian Horntail Triwizard Challenge - 75946", and it's probably too long.

What would be the easiest (=fewest sets) or cheapest way to get the required bricks and chains?

I live in Germany, and I've found a custom set with original bricks for 30€, for the simplest model.

I really like the yellow castle above, as well as the Ninjago one. Does anybody know how much it would cost to build them?

Finally, this one (*The Impossible Apartment Complex* by Jeff Friesen) also looks really cool:

Any hint would be welcome!

# Answer
> 17 votes
Tensegrity Sculpture by JKBrickworks has free instructions. Here you can also get full list of elements you need to build it.

Rebrickable has few more "tensegrity" models. All come with instructions and part lists as well as estimated part cost. Example for model shown above:

As for acquiring parts there are multiple ways. If you are looking to purchase missing elements only I would suggest following options (in no particular order):

* LEGO PAB (Pick A Brick) online store
* LEGO B'n'P (Bricks and Pieces)
* Bricklink
* BrickOwl

Each creation/MOC onRebrickable has "Buy parts" tab, which use Bricklink and BrickOwl shops. Or you can use "add to wishlist/wanted list" options available for Bricklink and BrickOwl from Inventory tab.

# Answer
> 13 votes
Lack of chains should not be a showstopper for such a project, as any flexible, non-expandable material can work instead. You may use LEGO strings, like those included with Spiderman sets with the tubular grip sections or the plain one:

Or in their absence even plain, 3rd party string can work, either tied to, or gripped between LEGO bricks:

I have had success with rubber bands and pneumatic tubing as well, so grab anything suitable and start building :)

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Tags: shopping, design, moc
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# Question
Title: Mindstorms Vision Command - what shall I do with it?
I have a Vision Command camera, bricks and book, still boxed with instructions and a W98 coaster, er I mean CD, and was about to donate it to a charity shop but it seems there's no 64 bit driver for it? Windows can't find one anyway.

I'm not sure it's worth wasting their time with it. I suppose a note saying "not for new versions of Windows" might still attract someone with an older PC but I'm open to suggestions?

Regards

# Answer
> 2 votes
I've tried with limited success to get this hardware to work with various systems. There was a single third-party cam driver for OS X that let it be used as a digi-cam. That is, there was no integration with other LEGO software or firmware.

It is some sort of Logitech, but the devil is in the details. There are no modern Windows drivers. OS X is probably no longer a viable option, though I have not checked recently (recently: last 3-4 releases). Linux or BSD is probably where experimentation might pan out.

Even so, getting the camera to work is different than getting it to work with any other era of Mindstorms equipment.

It is essentially abandon-ware or experiment-ware.

My only advice is to give it away or sell it "as-is". I did consider cracking it open and replacing the guts with more modern hardware (perhaps a bluetooth or wi-fi camera to get rid of the tether) but without any integration into Mindstorms, it's just another digi-cam. But at least it could be one that easily attaches to other LEGO.

# Answer
> 2 votes
It is a Logitech Quickcam, and yes, it still works on Linux (I've tried it on ev3dev with my EV3 and Ubuntu 20.04)

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Tags: mindstorms
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# Question
Title: Can anyone identify what set these may have come from? Lots of burgundy colored pieces and a few Technic pieces
The year listed is 2011, but I really have no other information as these were salvaged from a thrift store.

# Answer
Based on

SLIDE SHOE ROUND 2X2 in red

SLIDE SHOE ROUND 2X2 in trans yellow

and the different gray parts

these bags are from

7964: Republic Frigate
> 4 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: What are possible sets for these castle pieces?
I bought what I thought was a box of Lego bricks that contained a castle. About half the castle pieces were there. This is a picture of some of the major and larger pieces. I'm wondering if someone can help me identify some sets these may belong to.

# Answer
> 9 votes
The parts on the bottom left of your picture are 98287 "Bracket 3x4 3x4", which appear in a very limited number of sets. Of those, I think you have bits and pieces of 4204-1 "The Mine":

Note 30293+30294 boulders, 6108 arch 1x12x3, 98280 panel 1x6x3 with studs on sides and 30150 crate 3x4x1⅔ all appear in that set too.

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You seem to have exactly 12 of 90195 Window 1x2x2 castle, in tan colour. That narrows down the search quite a lot, down to 8639-1 Big Bentley Bust Out:

That's also the only set to feature 2454pb062 "Brick 1x2x5 with Electricity Danger Sign Pattern (Sticker)", which is only barely visible in the above picture:

The parts list for that set also lists 6233 Cone 2x3x2 and 60208 wheel 31mm D. x 15mm in dark bluish gray.

That set does **not** cover the 8x8 tan plate, though.

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Your brown parts (in particular, the reddish brown 4790b rudder wheel) suggest that you have parts of *several* pirate boat sets.

My *wild guess* is 70413-1 The Brick Bounty, but just because the parts list for it also includes a 64951 barrel half large AKA "crow's nest" and a 30150 crate 3x4x1⅔. I could be wrong, though.

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The two technic-looking parts at the very right of your photograph seem to be "Projectile Cannon", either 57029c01 or 57029c02. There is a limited number of sets with two such parts, but I cannot give a good guess.

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For the rest of the parts, I have no good guesses.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Is there an open dataset of LEGO part photos suitable for machine learning?
I'm working on an app to identify LEGO elements from a photo using machine learning. I've completed a crude prototype that only supports the most common 10 elements.

I'm currently rendering images for the dataset using LeoCAD, but this isn't ideal, as I'd like the training data to look as much like real-world photos as possible to improve accuracy. I'm aware that I could get better renders using Blender or other tools, but that wouldn't provide all the elements of real photos (odd backgrounds, shadows, poor lighting, etc).

Is there an open dataset of LEGO part photos suitable for machine learning applications? I'm aware of a Kaggle dataset, but it uses renders rather than photos. I'm also aware of a couple of folks (Daniel West and Jacques Mattheij) who have used a dataset like the one I'm looking for, but I believe they created it themselves and did not share it for public use.

Update:

I've heard from both Daniel and Jacques. Daniel's dataset has already been exclusively licensed. Jacques wouldn't be easy to generalize due the optics used (mirrors to capture multiple angles), and has already been deleted.

Update 2:

There is now a larger rendered dataset on Kaggle.

# Answer
I am not aware of any open public databases, but it might be worth contacting Peeron and BrickLink to see if they would grant access to their libraries of user submitted photos of parts. I have no idea if either of them would actually grant the access, but it couldn't hurt to ask either.
> 5 votes

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Tags: part-database
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# Question
Title: Which set would these red and grey pieces be from?
Hoping for help in identifying which set these bags have come from. These were given to my son but we are missing bag 1 and instructions. Pictures of front and back of packets:

# Answer
These bags belong to Neptune Carrier (8075) set.

Identified by collection of elements, like Window 1 x 4 x 2 Plane, Single Hole Top and Bottom for Glass, Technic, Panel Fairing #18 Large Smooth, Side B, Wedge 16 x 4 Triple Curved in Red color and Propeller 7 Blade 6 Diameter in Pearl Light Gray.

**Instructions** can be downloaded from LEGO. Even though you miss the first bag it contains only minifigs and supplemental models.

Bags, starting from bag #2, contain elements required to build main model:
> 6 votes

# Answer
These parts are from

8075: Neptune Carrier

Keyparts :
> 2 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Are there factories in China that produce raw LEGO-compatible blocks?
Nowadays Chinese are getting really good at making LEGO-compatible blocks. Some sets are really unique and of very good quality. But still - we got our own ideas. I wonder does anyone here know any source in China, that produces blocks (not sets)? So blocks of requested shape and color. I would like to contact them somehow. They should exist, since set producing companies do not seem to produce blocks themselves, but rather taking them from somewhere else.

# Answer
> 8 votes
There are vendors that sell LEGO compatible blocks. One place to look for these is on AliExpress, which is an online marketplace affiliated with Alibaba, the world's largest retailer (wikipedia).

You can search around for what you want, but here are two sellers that I found as an example (, ).

Note that these don't appear to be significantly better prices than what you might find on a secondary LEGO market such as Bricklink, and quality varies a lot between brands, so I'd recommend sticking with Bricklink unless you are looking for massive quantities and quality isn't as important to you.

High quality LEGO compatible brick manufacturing requires very high mold tolerance and tight tolerances on the entire injection molding process. It isn't easy to do cheaply, and LEGO's scale allows them to be fairly price competitive on bulk parts among manufactures with similar quality.

# Answer
> -2 votes
If you are looking for a product in China, but do not know where to find a manufacturer, I suggest you consider using a sourcing agent. These companies can help people in European and American countries find suitable factories. They are locals and have more experience in doing such things.

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Tags: compatibility, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: Does Enlighten Brick mainly produce copies of old LEGO sets?
I have recently purchased the Enlighten Brick Black Pearl set. It seems to me though that the set is not an original, and is mainly a copy of a prior LEGO set (6285).

Is it true? And does it apply to all Enlighten Brick products?

# Answer
Enlighten Brick is a Chinese LEGO knock-off brand.

A lot of, if-not most of, the sets the produce are basically copies of existing LEGO sets, either current ones or popular retired ones.

From their website though, they do appear to have some of their own designs.

Edit by Phil B: **Word of Warning: By buying counterfeited sets (such as these Enlighten Bricks copies of LEGO sets) you are sponsoring illegal activities, which if not stopped might ultimately cause irreversible damage to the LEGO brand and the high quality, original sets it provides. Enlighten can offer sets for less than what the equivalent LEGO set would cost purely because instead of investing in R&D they have stolen LEGO's Intellectual Property.**
> 11 votes

# Answer
Lepin is a Chinese brand that exclusively clones LEGO sets or user-created MOCS.

Most other Chinese brands sell (mostly) sets based on original designs. Englighten is one such brand.

For example, Enlighten sells several military themed sets, which is a theme LEGO has always avoided :

It also has sets in various other themes that are totally original designs :

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It does appear, however, that at least some of their designs are in fact copies of LEGO designs. As you pointed out yourself, the Enlighten Brick Black Pearl set is clearly a copy of LEGO set 6285 or 10040.

I've seen many Enlighten sets, however, and this is the first one I encounter that is actually based on a LEGO set.
> 1 votes

# Answer
The Enlighten sets from the "combat zones" old series are copied from the LEGO Indiana Jones sets. For example, the amphibian vehicle is a copy of the set number 7625 River Chase.
> 1 votes

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Tags: sets, clone-brands
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title: 2001 BIONICLE Trading Card #255?

text:
# Question
Title: 2001 BIONICLE Trading Card #255?
This is probably a long shot, but does anyone have or know where to find a picture of the 2001 BIONICLE trading card #255? It's presumably one of the illustrated story cards, and likely features a Muaka or maybe a Tarakava.

Unfortunately BIONICLEsector01 does not have a picture of this card, nor have I been able to find one with a Google search.

Any other information about the card, like proof it does not actually exist, would also be acceptable.

# Answer
> 5 votes
Via this Reddit post, I was able to find this Google Drive link which had scans of the base game, the Rahi Challenge expansion pack (including the front and back of card #255), and the Bohrok Swarm standalone game. The drive has been stable for a year as of writing (June 2021), but you may wish to archive its contents in the event it becomes unavailable.

The scans appear to be higher quality than the other archive I found on Brickshelf which did not have card #255.

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Tags: bionicle
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title: Can I make a Complete Red Skeleton

text:
# Question
Title: Can I make a Complete Red Skeleton
So, it looks like, from searching on Bricklink, there are no red skeleton torsos - only arms and legs. Is that right?

# Answer
Yes, if you can get your hands on a test-printed torso.
> 4 votes

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Tags: piece-information
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title: Rigid Hose attachment

text:
# Question
Title: Rigid Hose attachment
I'm trying to supplement some vines with rigid hoses. I'd like to attach some fruit and other things to them. I have Hose, Soft 3mm D. 5L / 4.0cm. But it doesn't grip very well with the hollow studs I'm using. Is there a better part I can use that will grip onto a rigid hose while attaching to other pieces. (Or is there a different hose I can use)?

Here's a Link to a video that will display the problem I'm having and a photo of the build:

Update: I tried some other hoses and some of them worked better. There does seem to be some slight variation in diameter between hoses.

# Answer
For clarification, based on your video it looks like you are using a rigid hose, not the soft hose linked in your question. The soft hoses don't hold their shape as much. They can stretch around other elements like the pneumatic hoses do. They aren't common. One use is for the SCUBA mask (32037) in the 1997 Technic Search Sub:

It appears that you are using something like Hose, Rigid 3mm D. 8L. These parts should be able to do what you want them to do. I've tested with a number of mine from different eras, and they all had a strong enough connection that the 1x1 plate didn't fall off.

This part is made of a softer plastic than the regular ABS, so it is more susceptible to wear than elements like the 4L bar. I did find that some of my parts had a weaker connection than others. It is possible that your part is a little worn down, or that a slightly smaller non-LEGO hose snuck into your collection. I believe I've had that happen to me in the past, as there's no LEGO logo on these parts.

I would recommend trying with another hose. If you are using the soft hose, try using one of the rigid hoses. It's possible that the 1x1 plate is the problem, but that can be easily tested by confirming that a bar connects firmly.
> 5 votes

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Tags: design
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# Question
Title: What part number is this? - 1 x 1 at a right angle with one stud and one hole
My son needs this part and I'm unable to find its part number. Can anyone identify it?

# Answer
> 13 votes
The black part is:

Part# 42446 : Minifigure Neck Bracket with Back Stud - Thin Back Wall

or

Part# 28974 : Minifigure Neck Bracket with Back Stud - Thick Back Wall

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: List of sets with large spiral-bound instructions?
I am looking for instructions similar to those of the 75192 Millennium Falcon, i.e. large-format ring binder instructions. Is there a list of sets that have these? Or a database from which this information can be derived? Bricklink does have images of the instructions, but doesn't specify the binding type.

It would be nice if such a list existed. If you know some sets with this binding type, please also mention those.

I own the 75192, 75252 and 10188 instructions, all are nice examples of this type.

# Answer
> 6 votes
After some manual search, I found only a small number of sets that definitely have spiral-bound instructions. All of them are from the Star Wars theme and almost all of them are UCS models. This is the list so far:

10030 Imperial Star Destroyer - UCS (either glued or spiral-bound)
10179 Millennium Falcon - UCS
10188 Death Star
10221 Super Star Destroyer - UCS
75159 Death Star - UCS
75192 Millennium Falcon - UCS (2nd edition)
75252 Imperial Star Destroyer - UCS (2nd edition)
21005 Fallingwater

Please comment or edit if you are aware of other sets.

The following sets were confirmed to not have spiral-bound instructions:

31203 World Map
10276 Colosseum
71043 Hogwarts
10256 Taj Mahal
71741 Ninjago City Gardens
75978 Diagon Alley

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Tags: instructions, set-database
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title: What parts are these (showerhead)?

text:
# Question
Title: What parts are these (showerhead)?
Just trying to identify all the metallic colored parts here and the gray one at the top... assuming they are LEGO:

# Answer
> 16 votes
I believe that this is 65578 attached to an angled lightsaber hilt and a light reflector dish.

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Tags: part-identification
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title: Bag with blue, brown, and white blocks

text:
# Question
Title: Bag with blue, brown, and white blocks
I have this bag and I don’t know which set it came from. Mostly blue, brown and white blocks. Some green flowers with little lime green cylinder blocks, too.

# Answer
This must be part of 21134: The Waterfall Base:

It contains all of the visible items and in the required amounts:
> 5 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: What is this rounded, textured piece with connections at right angles?
Can someone please help me to identify this LEGO brick?

Here is another view:

# Answer
It's hard to prove a negative, but searching Bricklink for "brick 1x1 modified" does not give any relevant results.

Combined with the utter lack of familiarity from all commenters above, it is more than probable that this is a 3rd party (clone) brick, and not an official LEGO design.
> 6 votes

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: Downloading Stud.io files for official sets
I am looking for a Stud.io file for the 31120: Medieval Castle, but I am unaware of a place where you can find Stud.io files. Is there such a place?

# Answer
I usually check at Eurobricks forums, as they have "Official Lego sets made in LDraw" topic, where community share LDraw files for digitally built LEGO sets. The list of available sets is rather limited since this a community effort after all.

At this point of time I couldn't find files for 31120 on EB yet.
> 3 votes

# Answer
The BrickLink gallery also includes a number of builds of official sets, however many of them aren't titled with the set name, but may include it in the description. Sadly there also doesn't appear to be any versions of 31120 yet.

You could download the instructions and have the fun of virtually building it yourself ;)
> 3 votes

# Answer
There is a 3D model available on Mecabricks, which can be viewed, edited or exported into various formats, if one of these fits your use case.
> 3 votes

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Tags: bricklink-studio
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# Question
Title: Can I control PF M-motor with PF train controller?
Can I control Power Functions M-motor from 8293 set with remote control from 60051 train set? It seems from the picture, that the sockets fit into each other. So if I have the train set, and want to build a remote controlled car, should I buy the 8293?

# Answer
> Can I control Power Functions M-motor from 8293 set with remote control from 60051 train set? It seems from the picture, that the sockets fit into each other.

Yes, you can control any motor from Power Functions line with IR Speed Remote Control Unit found in 60051 set.

> So if I have the train set, and want to build a remote controlled car, should I buy the 8293?

It depends. 8293 set contains single M-motor, which you can only use to drive back-forward or turn the wheels. You would need two sets at least to have a driving and steering model. It also depends how big of a vehicle you have as M-motors aren't very powerful and you might want to look into L-motor or XL-motor.
> 3 votes

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Tags: power-functions, remote-control
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title: Cost effective sagging palm trees

text:
# Question
Title: Cost effective sagging palm trees
I'd like to build about a dozen palm trees that have some curve or sag to them, not just vertical. The 2 methods I've found are

1. The Baryonyx face-off set uses a dinosaur tail to make a curve in the tree. Instructions can be found here, starting at about step 33.
2. The various Palm trunk pieces available on Bricklink.

Unfortunately, both of these pieces are hard to find in quantity and can be priced quite high. Is there a more cost effective way to build sagging palm trees?

# Answer
> 10 votes
You could loosely stack Brick, Round 1 x 1 Open Stud around a core Hose, Rigid 3mm D.. As long as the stack is loose, you should be able to bend the trunk to your desired shape.

As a bonus, you get the segmented look of the trunk for free. A reference photo:

Or if your scale is smaller, maybe consider Hose, Ribbed 7mm D..

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Tags: design
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# Question
Title: Identify large tile sticker with flaming monster
I have a large tile (inclined) with a sticker of what looks like a fire monster with flames. Can you help me identifying the set? Could it be a Ninjago set?

# Answer
> 7 votes
This stickered Slope 10 6 x 8 comes from

9464: The Vampyre Hearse

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification
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# Question
Title: Can anyone identify these two makers marks (logos) on these "Clone" bricks?
This may seem a bit weird but over a number of years I've saved a small collection of random Lego bricks I've found among driftwood/debris along the Ohio River bank, after rises and falls of the river. I enjoy collecting pieces of driftwood, and occasionally find fishing lures, bobbers and other odds and ends in my hikes. So recently, I was studying them closely and noticed a few are competitor brands including Mega Bloks and Tyco. But I can't figure out what the brand is of these two, with different logos on them. I will attach a pic of each logo. I tried to get the pics sharp and clear enough to make out. One of them is on the bottom and looks like an "A F" inside of a circle. The other appears on the top. It seems like it is familiar but I can't place it. Neither one of these bricks has any logo or lettering on the studs. Any ideas on maker or brand name?? Thanks!!

EDIT - An additional comment, added 7/4/21: Just added three more pics to show the bricks with the "AF in a circle" logo on bottom (the group of four). Although the red brick has it marked "correctly", all three blue ones have the AF circle logo backwards! Including pics showing both the top and bottom of the bricks. Don't know what type of plastic they are made from, but they have that softer, sorta "waxy" feel something like the PP (number 5) plastic. These were probably found in the 1990s.

# Answer
> 8 votes
According to an earlier question, the second is

> a Kawada Dia Block made in Japan. Entex and Sears imported those into the US in the 70’s and 80’s and repackaged them under such brands as Loc Bloc and Brix Blox. The “S” is actually a K on top of a D, which is the emblem for the Japanese toy company Kawada. Dia Blocks are still made and available in Japan today.

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Tags: clone-brands
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# Question
Title: Is it illegal to use an illustration of me as a LEGO minifigure on my website?
I created an education web platform with different activities so I have have made my LEGO illustration representing me in the different contexts of my site: classroom, consulting workshop room, lecture room, book club. As I became LSP certified facilitator, I have just read tonight that we are not allowed to use almost anything with LEGO TM especially minifigures. Can anyone help with more information? How to contact the legal department of Lego, persons in charge of brand?

# Answer
> 5 votes
First, I need to state that we're not affiliated with The LEGO Group, but we are an officially Recognised LEGO Fan Media outlet, and that I'm not a lawyer.

The best I can suggest is reading through the LEGO Group's Fair Play statement and note the FAQ on the Serious Play section of their site:

> **What is meant with “iconic and/or emphasized use of the LEGO minifigures and/or the LEGO bricks/knobs is not allowed” according to the Trademark Guidelines?**
> It means that enhanced/stand-alone use of the LEGO® minifigure, the LEGO® brick or the knob configuration/pattern – i.e. as a business identifier/logo/sign or as an eye catching design element on various materials/web sites etc. – is not allowed. Only the LEGO Group can use the trademarks as source indicators, meaning an indication of origin of a service or a product. The knob configuration/pattern is typically used by the LEGO Group as background on a website, on a book cover or displayed on license products.

And the full guidelines can be found here (PDF).

Finally, in terms of contacting them, you could start with their Contact page, either "LEGO Company | Information about the LEGO Group" or "LEGO Company | Anything Else".

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Tags: minifigures, lego-group
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# Question
Title: What is the correct snowspeeder to pair with the AT-AT?
Wanting to replicate the scene from Empire Strikes Back where Luke is flying a snowspeeder on Hoth and harpoons an AT-AT. I have already purchased and built the AT-AT model number 75288 but I'm having trouble figuring out what is right for this scene? Is it the discontinued model 75259 or 75268?

**Edit:**

I'm looking to replicate the scene with the current AT-AT I have but I'm unsure which Snowspeeder should be used that will pair well in size with the AT-AT. The Snowspeeders I've researched are different sizes and I'm unsure if 75259 is an oversized representation to be used as a model only or if 75268 is the correct size representation for the scene. From my research doesn't appear they'll come out with any other variations to a Snowspeeder.

# Answer
> 11 votes
**Taking the most probable and most objectively answerable interpretation ("Which has the closest scale?") the answer can be clearly decided:**

According to the Star Wars Wiki the AT-AT is 22,5 meters high and 20 meters long. The 75288 set you purchased is 34 cm high and 38 cm long, this gives a 1:66,17 or 1:52,63 scale, depending on whether you take the height or the length. *(On a side note, here we can see that the LEGO model itself is already not to scale with the movie model.)*

Using these scales the 5,3 meter length of the Snowspeeder would be the best depicted by a model 10,07 or 8,00 cm long. Of your alternatives the 75268 is a bit closer to it at 11 cm, while the 75259 is about twice as large (18 cm).

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Tags: star-wars, compatibility
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# Question
Title: Identify parts number - two sides and top of a square (one solid piece)
Please help me identify this part. It has nothing on it except "LEGO". Thanks.

# Answer
> 6 votes
This is part # 821

Garage Door Frame

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Tags: part-identification, vintage
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# Question
Title: Continuous power supply for the SPIKE Prime or Robot Inventor hubs?
The hubs present in the Mindstorms Robot Inventor or SPIKE Prime sets have 2100mAh lithium-ion batteries which can be charged with the accompanied cable with a micro USB connector on one end and a regular USB connector on the other end. You need to provide your own USB charger and a high performant one such as the ones used with an Apple or Samsung device is recommended.

My question is, during an exposition, e.g. when the hub is used in a GBC module, can you leave the cable connected so it will function as a continuous power supply? Or is this not recommended because it could mess up the charging cycles of the rechargeable batteries? Would the performance of the models stay constant?

# Answer
This is what the 45678 user guide says:

> EN
>
> Important information: Only use a high-quality Power Adaptor, PC or Laptop for charging the rechargeable battery. Output 5V DC, 500-1500mA. Use the supplied LEGO® USB cable. How to charge the battery: Charge the battery fully the first time it is used. The battery can be charged when inserted in the TECHNIC Large Hub. Connect the LEGO USB cable to a power source. The Charging Light will turn red when the power source is connected. The Charging Light will turn green when the battery is fully charged. Charging time for the battery is up to six hours. The TECHNIC Large Hub can be used during charging but this will increase the charging time. If the battery is fully discharged and the TECHNIC Large Hub cannot be turned on when the power source is connected, the battery will need up to one hour charging time before the TECHNIC Large Hub can be turned on. Warning! Do not dispose your battery by incineration. Dispose the battery in accordance with the current legislation in your country. Do not short-circuit the battery. Do not damage the battery. Do not dispose in fire. Never use a damaged battery.

There is no information on how long the SPIKE hub can be connected and operating from an external DC power source.

For your purpose it may work or it may shutdown. It depends on if the GBC module draws more current than the USB power source can supply.
> 5 votes

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Tags: electronics, robot-inventor, spike-prime, gbc
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# Question
Title: Please help identify these bricks with holes between the rows of studs
Hi I came across these bricks. But I have no idea what they are. They are plastic as far as I can tell.

I hope someone knows a bit more

# Answer
These are early IDEMA bricks. http://www.inverso.pt/legos/clones/texts/idema.htm

Photo from linked site:
> 5 votes

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: Which item no is this minifigure head - prominent eyebrows raised in the middle, lots of teeth
I'm searching for the item number of this minifigure head:

Thanks for your help!

# Answer
I could only find minifigure head with same face expression but with freckles:

Minifigure, Head Dark Brown Eyebrows, Dark Orange Freckles, Open Mouth Crooked Smile Pattern (Jay) - Hollow Stud (3626cpb1872)

While I cannot yet confirm if this is the only piece with such face expression, it is not unheard of such modification (within LEGO community), where unwanted printing is removed.
> 6 votes

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Tags: part-identification, minifigure-identification
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# Question
Title: Difference between the "Simple Medium Linear Motor" (45303) and the "Medium Linear Motor" (88008) Powered Up motors
What is the difference between the "Simple Medium Linear Motor" (45303) and the "Medium Linear Motor" (88008) Powered Up motors, other than the size and design? Is the performance similar, and can the different motors do different things in the app or when controlled by the remote controller? Can they be mixed freely?

What combination would you recommend for the following use cases:

* Two motors with one 88009 hub and remote controller to build an RC car (movement forward + steering)
* Rollercoaster chain movement
* Helicopter blade rotation

# Answer
The main difference is that the 88008 Medium Linear Motor includes a rotation encoder with 1° resolution. Otherwise it weighs a bit more (34g vs 43g), is a bit slower (380 rpm vs 255 rpm) but also needs less power (60 mA vs 41 mA when freely running). For more subtle differences see Philo's excellent motor comparison page (where I got the above from as well).

---

As for the recommended combinations for the above use cases, I'd use a 88008 to steer the car (so that you can use its encoder to return the steering to central) and the 45303 to drive it (as it's faster and stronger).

The other two use cases don't need such precise control, so the 45303 should be adequate, if not outright overkill for both of these.
> 10 votes

---
Tags: motor, remote-control, powered-up
---


# Question
Title: What are black sausage pieces used for in Crocodile Locomotive set 10277?
After assembly I have these 5 pieces left. Should I have put them somewhere? I can't find any missed step that would use them. So why are these there at all?

# Answer
> 26 votes
These are placed next to the magnets at the front and the back of the train. See step 142 in the instructions.

4 are needed and there is 1 spare.

BrickInstructions shows it here:

---
Tags: trains, piece-usage
---


# Question
Title: Is there a piece that is a plate 4x4 with 1 center knob?
I can make something similar with a 2x2 with center knob and stone surrounding pieces, but I really want it in one single piece.

# Answer
No there isn’t such a plate (yet). Your proposed alternative is the best way to create a 4x4 surface with a single centered stud.
> 6 votes

# Answer
The closest I could think of in 4 x 4 size would be Turntable 4 x 4 Square Base, Locking. It doesn't feature a stud in the center and has this ring on top, unfortunately. However, depending on your use case center hole still could be used to attach whatever you are building.
> 6 votes

---
Tags: piece-information
---


# Question
Title: Is it possible to create a slope (roof hip) on a 45 degree angle?
In the LEGO Super Mario app, they have created some neat looking bases, however they have a lot of complicated slopes and smooth plates. It's clearly a 3D model, but it looks as though as if it could theoretically be created using available LEGO parts. I can't seem to figure out how to make a slope on a 45 degree angle though. It looks like the base has 65-degree angled slopes which would be totally impossible using available parts, but if you were to build this using *45-degree* slopes, you wouldn't want to use 3045 to corner it on the left side, you'd want to use some kind of angled part at the corner. I was curious to know if the following is even possible:

# Answer
A 45 degree slope doesn't fit the standard geometry of the LEGO system.

The basic "3D module" of the system (a 1x1 plate) is 5 units square by 2 units tall.

A brick is three plates tall - i.e. 5 units square by 6 units tall.

Therefore, the smallest *perfect cube* you can build is 6 bricks square by 5 bricks tall. It should be clear that can't be split into two "wedges" or "cheese pieces" with 45 degree slopes.

The 2x2 wedge piece in zovits's answer, and all the other 45 degree slope brick parts, work round this by having a small vertical base under the 45 degree sections to make them one brick tall, and therefore they are not stackable to make a *smooth* 45 degree slope. If you do stack them, the "average slope" is close to 50 degrees, not 45.
> 3 votes

# Answer
At a small scale the part Wedge 2 x 2 (Slope 45 Corner) could do this, but this approach can't be scaled up:
> 2 votes

---
Tags: slope, angles
---


# Question
Title: Which sets do these half-built pieces belong to? Lime green vehicle, long yellowish vehicle, creature with claws
Which set does each one of these belong to?

# Answer
The first looks like 60181 Forest Tractor

The second looks like 60178 Speed Record Car

The third looks like 31073 Mythical Creatures
> 10 votes

---
Tags: set-identification
---


title: LEGO EV3 Brick Type Data File not found

text:
# Question
Title: LEGO EV3 Brick Type Data File not found
So this morning, I was going to build something with my EV3 kit, when I turned on the brick, the brick said 'Type data File not found'. Then I plugged in my touch sensor and all the motors in their proper place, they all said unknown, only the ultrasonic, gyro and color sensor were working. I really don't understand what is wrong here, so please, give me your ideas. So I can fix the problem.

# Answer
> 2 votes
The type data file is probably this file. It contains definitions for non-UART sensors, which explains why the motors and touch sensor do not work but the other sensors do.

I'm not sure how it could be missing since it normally isn't exposed to the user (maybe the flash memory got corrupted or some 3rd-party tool was used to delete the file). You could try flashing the firmware again. If that doesn't work, contact LEGO customer support.

---
Tags: ev3, mindstorms
---


# Question
Title: Which sets do these pieces belong to? Orange (non-Lego) and orange/black (Lego)
Which sets do these pieces belong to?

Thanks!

# Answer
> 8 votes
The first isn't (entirely) Lego - you can see the open studs on the top-left build.

The second seems to be 70645 Cole - Dragon Master

# Answer
> 8 votes
The other LEGO sets seen in first picture have pieces of Arctic Ice Crawler (60192)

And Drone Explorer (31071)

# Answer
> 5 votes
Bottom left is from The Guardians' Ship (30525), you can tell from the cockpit.

I believe that makes the top left the only clone brand sub-assembly.

---
Tags: set-identification, clone-brands
---


# Question
Title: Are these bricks with dimple on top of a stud LEGO?
These bricks came in a lot of LEGO bricks from the 1960's-1970's. I have looked on Google to check other manufacturers and I couldn't find a match to them.

# Answer
I think these bricks are Lino Method
> 8 votes

---
Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
---


# Question
Title: EV3 not recognizing resistance correctly (MicroPython)
I recently tried measuring the resistance of a thermistor using the `.resistance()` method, the results are sadly not accurate. I measured the resistance with a multimeter and it showed 100kΩ, while the different EV3's all showed something between 330kΩ and 360kΩ. Even with no resistance the EV3 shows around 10kΩ resistance, so the results are not off by a fixed amount, but the results are repeatable.

Here is the code I used:

```
#!/usr/bin/env pybricks-micropython

from pybricks.hubs import EV3Brick
from pybricks.iodevices import AnalogSensor
from pybricks.parameters import Port

ev3 = EV3Brick()

thermistor = AnalogSensor(Port.S1)

x = thermistor.resistance()

print(x)

```

Any help, explanation or like a formula to calculate the real resistance would be very appreciated.

# Answer
Here is the schematic of an input port on the EV3 (available on official LEGO MINDSTORMS download page):

And this is the implementation of the `resistance()` method from Pybricks MicroPython:

```
STATIC mp_obj_t iodevices_AnalogSensor_resistance(mp_obj_t self_in) {
    iodevices_AnalogSensor_obj_t *self = MP_OBJ_TO_PTR(self_in);
    int32_t voltage;
    uint8_t mode = self->active ? PBIO_IODEV_MODE_NXT_ANALOG__ACTIVE : PBIO_IODEV_MODE_NXT_ANALOG__PASSIVE;
    pb_device_get_values(self->pbdev, mode, &voltage);

    // Open terminal/infinite resistance, return infinite resistance
    const int32_t vmax = 4972;
    if (voltage >= vmax) {
        return mp_obj_new_int(MP_SSIZE_MAX);
    }
    // Return as if a pure voltage divider between load and 10K internal resistor
    return mp_obj_new_int((10000 * voltage) / (vmax - voltage));
}

```

---

A seen in the schematic, `R119` pulls up pin 1 to 5V with a 10k resistor. This is why the `resistance()` method measures 10k without anything connected.

The `resistance()` method assumes that you are connecting the external resistance between pin 1 and pin 3 (ground) and it assumes that the 5V supply is actually 4.972V.

Here is the equivalent circuit - a voltage divider:

With a bit of algebra, we can see that the equation in implementation is correct.

```
TH1 = (10k*MES1)/(VCC-MES1)

```

---

The inaccuracy comes from the hard-coded values for the VCC voltage and the R119 resistance (`Rinternal`). These could be measured more precisely. First to measure VCC, simply record the value using the `voltage()` method when nothing is attached to the port. To calculate R119, get a 10k resistor and measure it with your multimeter to get an exact value (`Rtest`). Then connect it to pins 1 and 3 and measure the voltage with the `voltage()` method (`Vtest`). Then:

```
Rinternal = (Rtest*Vtest)/(VCC-Vtest)

```

Then you can make your own resistance function using those values:

```

# replace ... with exact measure values
VCC = ...
R_INTERNAL_PORT_A = ...

sensor = AnalogSensor(Port.A)

def resistance():
    v = sensor.voltage()
    return R_INTERNAL_PORT_A * v / (VCC - v)

```

However, the further away from 10k that the thermistor gets, the less precise the measurement will be due to the fact that the value approaches infinity as `v` approaches `VCC`.

---

Another alternative could be a hardware solution. Using an op amp, you could create a circuit that has an output in the range of 0-5V. The op amp circuit could even be designed to make the output linear with respect to temperature rather than linear to resistance. With the analog circuit eliminating the non-linearity, the analog digital converter in the EV3 would have equal precision across the full range of temperatures.
> 8 votes

---
Tags: ev3, programming, electronics, micropython, pybricks
---


# Question
Title: What can this curved brick with square holes be used for?
I recently came across this piece:

What piece is it, and how can it be used?

# Answer
> 18 votes
The part is Window Round 3 x 3 x 2 (73878).

It was a new mold for 2021, and one of its first uses was as windows on Andrea's House (41449).

This piece can be used on buildings anywhere you'd like a curved window. It is easy to imagine how it could have been used on earlier sets, such as the "curved" windows on the Pet Shop:

This part introduces opportunities for curved windows, but it continues to use existing window glass. It uses the 1x2x2 glass (60601):

This means that the part is also compatible with other window panes, such as the 1x2x2 bars:

These parts are paired together to create the curved window seen in Chamber of Secrets (76389):

Like most parts, there's plenty of ways to use it. It shows up as fences in Heartlake City Park (41447):

It even gets used to create a water wheel in Medieval Castle (31120):

I played around a little with this part at microscale and put together a Mars research station based around the idea of round pods:

---
Tags: part-identification, piece-usage, activity-support
---


# Question
Title: Motorizing Crocodile Locomotive set 10277 - are there any sets that include hub & motor I need?
Crocodile Locomotive can be powered up by using 1 x 88009 and 1 x 88013. Reviews on hubs and motors strongly suggest it is better, financially, to buy them as part of the sets, not separately.

Is there any set that contains both of these? And how to find it? If there is none, sets that contains only one or the other would be appreciated.

Additional criteria for the "goodness" of answer:

* Generic train, Technic or Powered Up parts, as I'd be buying it for the parts, not the model.
* Low price, or low price per brick (prices may change but relation between prices seems roughly constant for sets in production)
* Set is available now, as of middle of 2021, to buy new from The LEGO Group

# Answer
These parts are not found in the same set at this time, but there may still be an adequate solution.

This is a good question for Bricklink. In Bricklink terms the numbers you listed are for the "sets" that include these individual parts. The parts you are looking for are included in sets other than the set just for the part. The L-Motor appears in eight other sets and the Train hub appears in five different sets (numbers are valid by the time of this answer).

Based on that we can only conclude that these parts are not in the same set at this point, but that doesn't have to be the only conclusion. The list of sets with the hub includes three train sets. For instance, the 60198 Cargo Train is still available directly from LEGO and includes the train motor. The train motor seems like an easier way to power your train. The 60197 Passenger Train is also still available, and it is cheaper. The Disney Train is still available, but it is the most expensive.
> 4 votes

---
Tags: technic, trains, powered-up
---


# Question
Title: Looking for a way to convert a 3D model I found online into an LDD model (or related software)
I was recently viewing bricklink.com's user gallery and I found a design that I would like to recreate. I know the exact pieces that I need for the design (about 5000), but there are no detailed instructions on how to build it and the only thing available to me is a 3D blueprint of the design provided by the author. I tried contacting the designer for the LDD file but was unsuccessful. Since I know the exact pieces, Is it possible to somehow translate the online blueprint into LDD or a related software?

# Answer
> 4 votes
The design is created in Stud.io (as all designs on Studio Gallery) and the creator has explicitly chosen to not make his .io file available. So in trying to recreate this, you would go against the authors wishes, basically committing a copyright violation.

If you could somehow persuade the author to give you the .io file, than you could theoretically export it to .ldr file format (LDRAW file) from Stud.io and import it back into LDD. However for a model of this size and complexity, there would be guaranteed some complications and issues you need to resolve manually... Also bare in mind that LDD is no longer maintained or supported while Stud.io is. The latter has also a much richer feature set, e.g. the ability to order the necessary bricks from bricklink.

---
Tags: design, ldd, bricklink
---


# Question
Title: What are the best options for building a LEGO RC car?
I would like to build a remote controlled car. And if someone already has a good solution for that I would be glad to try it.

It's been a while since I had the time and material to build some LEGO creations. And now I am willing to start anew.

Last time I toyed with LEGO there were electric engines and such, but all I had was remote controlled with a cable and the functions were very basic. I am looking for a more advanced and wireless solution.

I am aware of the Power Functions. But I have no experience with these. Would these be a good start? What are the other options?

---

**Edit**: Mindstorms as suggested in a few answers could be the solution, but I am not sure it will be practical yet...

It seems there was an official line of LEGO RC cars at some point. I was thinking about something more like it.

Although I'd like to avoid cutting and gluing 3rd party components I don't mind hacking a few parts together to get something really cool.

As suggested by @pcantin there are adapters I could buy to interface LEGO with 3rd party engines etc... I will look into it. But I would appreciate some better pointers in this regard.

---

**Edit** I am already aware of the Power Functions IR remote control It's a good solution to start with (now), but I was looking for something more advanced.

I have never heard of Arduino before, but as a developer I am absolutely thrilled by this solution. I won't have the time to test it now. But it could become the answer I was looking for.

# Answer
> 15 votes
Personally I would go with Arduino (on the car) and an Android phone as the controller (via bluetooth). There's plenty of reference on the web about mixing the two.

The main problem is interfacing with non Lego parts (motors, PCB, ...). Luckily, you can find Lego adapter parts in many Robot/Electronic sites. For example at Pololu: http://www.pololu.com/search?query=lego&x=0&y=0

**Edit 1** (Howto) *Android bluetooth communication*: There's the main page and the sample (I started from that one and modified it). You can also use the 'Sena Bterm' app to send and receive characters (no programming necessary but very basic).

*Arduino bluetooth communication*: This is the most simple part. All you need is a bluetooth breakout board and connect it to the Arduino like so. Using the board is as simple as any normal Serial communication ex:

```
void setup()
{
  Serial.begin(115200);
}

int inByte = 0;

void loop()
{
  if (Serial.available() > 0)
  {
    inByte = Serial.read();

    if(inByte == '1'){
       Serial.println("test1");
    } else {
       Serial.println("test2");
    }
  }
}

```

This code reads the incoming bytes and write 'test1' or 'test2' in return.

*Hardware*: this is the coolest part because you get to do what ever you want. I personal use a lot of Lego Technics and sometime modified them to interface with foreign parts. Search the web and you'll find cool Lego-compatible stuff like this servo joint, this servo bracket or this wheel.

# Answer
> 15 votes
I use a Mindstorms NXT brick and an Android smartphone for my remote controlled tank. The downside is that the NXT motors are slower than the regular Power Functions motors, and connecting PF motors to the NXT brick requires additional components.

Personally, I am satisfied with NXT motors and don't bother kludging PF motors. (Yet.)

Here is a modular truck design as an example: http://www.nxtprograms.com/MTV/index.html
I use this app for my remote control: https://market.android.com/details?id=org.jfedor.nxtremotecontrol

# Answer
> 11 votes
LEGO have produced an IR Speed Remote Control unit as part of their current "Power Functions" range.

This offers:

* Features 4 RC channels, 2 stop button and 2 direction control switches!
* Use the jog wheels to control your motor speed!

You will also need the receivers as well.

# Answer
> 8 votes
The MindStorms NXT controller can work over bluetooth:

http://mindstorms.lego.com/

# Answer
> 8 votes
The 9398-1: 4x4 Crawler is an interesting candidate with the new servo motor. It comes in 2H2012. There are more pictures on TechnicBricks.

# Answer
> 5 votes
I saw an official Lego remote control car at the Lego Store once and I should have gotten it that day because I haven't seen it again.

That said, with Mindstorms and a bluetooth enabled phone it should be possible to build one one your own.

# Answer
> 3 votes
I would not recommend Power Functions if you are just getting started, as that system is being retired. It sounds like Technic Control+ should meet your needs. A set like the Off-road Buggy (42124) might be a good place to start:

That set provides two motors and a Bluetooth hub for forward, reverse, and steering controls from your smartphone. You can create customized controls for nearly any setup in a MOC using the Powered Up app.

Physical remotes are a more complicated story. There have been a few train sets that use physical remotes (28739) for the Powered Up products:

The remotes are sold separately, but are not very flexible out of the box. They can pair with hubs that control Technic motors, but they simply provide on/off control and can't be easily used for speed control or a return-to-center servo like you'd likely want for steering. However, sets like the Batmobile work alright with a physical remote, thanks to the skid steering.

If you're a technical individual, it is possible to upload custom code to Powered Up hubs using Pybricks or similar software. This is commonly used to create autonomous robots, but it can also be used to customize the interface between the hubs and a physical controller.

Here's a Github repository that includes code demonstrating how to program hubs to work nicely with the physical remote for certain sets. For example, here's the code needed to get the Off-road Buggy to work well:

```
from pybricks.pupdevices import *
from pybricks.parameters import *
from pybricks.tools import wait

steering = Motor(Port.B)
driving = Motor(Port.D)
remoteControl = Remote()

#steering calibration sequence
steering.run_until_stalled(500)
steering.reset_angle(0)
steering.run_until_stalled(-500)
maxAngle = steering.angle()
steering.run_target(500, (maxAngle/2)+10)
steering.reset_angle(0)

#main loop
while True:
    #update pressed buttons information
    pressed = remoteControl.buttons.pressed()

    #commands to drive forwards or backwards
    if Button.LEFT_PLUS in pressed:
        driving.dc(100)
    elif Button.LEFT_MINUS in pressed:
        driving.dc(-100)
    else:
        driving.brake()

    #commands to steer
    if Button.RIGHT_PLUS in pressed:
        steering.run_target(1200, (maxAngle/2)-5, Stop.HOLD,False)
    elif Button.RIGHT_MINUS in pressed:
        steering.run_target(1200, -((maxAngle/2)-5), Stop.HOLD,False)
    else:
        steering.run_target(1200, 0, Stop.HOLD, False)

    wait(100)

```

# Answer
> 2 votes
One possible replacement for the soon to be retiring Power Functions remote is the one included in Remote Controlled Stunt Racer, however this remote appears to be more limited, only offering 2 "forward/reverse" channels (one of which could be configured to control a steering column), rather than the 4 channels offered by the original.

This is also available separately.

---
Tags: technic, remote-control, power-functions, mindstorms, 3rd-party
---


# Question
Title: Does anyone recognize this LEGO piece? 2 studs, big curved section past a hole
I have searched through Rebrickable and Bricklink and can't seem to find this part. Does anyone know what it is or what set it is from?

# Answer
50948 Wedge 4 x 3 Cut Back with Cutout, 2 Studs

ATR 4 (8657) set is the only to include this element in Light Bluish Gray
> 8 votes

---
Tags: part-identification
---


# Question
Title: What is the white building pictured in the San Francisco (21043) set?
Can someone help identify what the red-circled building is (not the cylindrical Coit Tower) in this set? The others are obvious, but this one does not seem to be identified in any of the official literature.

# Answer
I believe it is 50 Fremont Center/Salesforce West Tower (it's right in front of/besides Salesforce Tower);

I acknowledge that the scale seems off. I'm guessing it is the Fremont Center based on it's location, appearance, and that Lego didn't bother labeling it, as if Salesforce West is part of Salesforce Tower. Also, if you were to look at Salesforce Tower from Coit Tower, the white buildings position is pretty much right on (if other buildings weren't blocking your view).
Additionally, none of the landmarks or their proximity to each other are really on scale in this Lego set. I feel like it's more of a representation than a model.
> 9 votes

# Answer
Here is a view from satellite photo:
> 4 votes

# Answer
So it's **Salesforce West Tower**. Or is it?

* Here's the heights, according to wikipedia.

Seems like the proportions are good. Except for Salesforce West Tower. At 600 ft it should be almost half the size of Salesforce Tower. How odd.

* Here's a photo from the instructions booklet.

Notice the building with the pyramid roof (yellow arrow) and the two white ones next to it.

* Here's the same view from above.

Turns out that the white building is Steuart Tower, height 364 ft. That's to scale.

Steuart Tower, however, is home to the Autodesk Gallery that features an 8.5-foot, 62,500 LEGO piece dinosaur in their exhibition.

So something makes me believe that this small white building is in fact: *an easter egg!*

And I think **it's One Market Plaza, Steuart Tower**.

What do you think? Am I wrong?
> 3 votes

# Answer
That’s either the Embarcadero Center (one of the four in a row seen at image below) or it is the Gateway apartments (visible in front of the row of four).

Source (Wikimedia)
> 1 votes

# Answer
To me, it looks a little like 650 Calfornia (right up the hill from the B of A building)…
> 0 votes

---
Tags: model-identification, architecture
---


# Question
Title: What is this part used for? 2x4 plate with a round bit sticking out with a hole
I have 4 of these pieces they are marked Pat Pend. Does any one know what these pieces are?

# Answer
BrickLink calls it a train coupler. So it's for trains. (It might also be a closed variant, I can't tell from the photo.)
> 3 votes

---
Tags: part-identification
---


# Question
Title: Lego Set number or building instructions - lots of lime green and purple and grey
Please help me to identify what is set number for these LEGO sets. I bought them from OP shop but I can’t find what is set number. I just know plastic bag with QR Code and when I scan it becomes 6172090, 2017 The Lego Group

* Plastic bag #2 219g8
* Plastic bag #5 219g8
* Plastic bag #4 319g8

# Answer
> 5 votes
There are also parts from 10188: Death Star

Photo #3 & 4

# Answer
> 1 votes
@HuongNguyen says it's

> Lego set 41346 Lego Friends Friendship Box

but I just wanted this question to stop coming up as unanswered. Don't upvote it.

---
Tags: set-identification
---


title: Can you identify this large sword?

text:
# Question
Title: Can you identify this large sword?
I thought it was something in the bionicle set, but I can't find it on bricklink. Anyone know what this is?

# Answer
> 10 votes
It's actually originally a Hero Factory piece.

11338 - Hero Factory Weapon - Axe/Sword with Jagged Blade

A red one is exclusive to 70203 - CHI Cragger.

---
Tags: part-identification
---


# Question
Title: Does anyone know what set this belongs to? Dark red, and greens
Recently I bought a bunch of LEGO pieces and stuff from a garage sale, but one of the things I also got was this bag. The number says 135149 and it’s from 2011. I figure it might be from Star Wars due to the green laser pieces and maroon pieces, but I’m not sure. There might’ve been other bags that were supposed to go with it, small ones, but I can’t be sure.

# Answer
While proper identification is only fully possible after you follow the comments of Zovits and RSchulz and include a better picture, I am pretty sure this bag belongs to set 75191 Jedi Starfighter with Hyperdrive. This is because:

* It has at least 3 bags due to its size (and you have a bag 3)
* It includes the projectile in trans bright green
* It includes at least one of the 4x6 wedge plates in dark red, visible in the right bottom of the bag. There are other sets with the projectile and dark red pieces (all in the Star Wars theme) but from what I can make out, 75191 is the only one with this wedge plate.
> 2 votes

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: Which LEGO set bricks with words Basel, Genova, Hamburg, Post belong to?
I have these bricks with these words on them. I have searched on the internet, but can't find what sets these would go to. Does anyone know ?

# Answer
> 8 votes
Those pieces were in one set: 113-2 from 1966.

---
Tags: set-identification, vintage
---


# Question
Title: Which set had these LEGO cars with Pat. Pend.?
I have three of these they are marked Pat. Pend. all pieces are the body's are white blocks wheels are red. What set are these from?

# Answer
> 13 votes
These are Train Base 4 x 7 with Wheels Holder

with Train Wheel with 2 x 2 Stud Center, Traction Teeth

and Turntable 4 x 4 Complete, Perfectly Round

They were found in two sets from 1966:

---
Tags: part-identification, set-identification, vintage
---


title: Hair and head for MTG Chandra Ablaze

text:
# Question
Title: Hair and head for MTG Chandra Ablaze
Is there any female head and hair that can approximate the picture from the MTG card "Chandra, Ablaze"?

I don't even have to have the goggles, I'm just looking for that "crazy psycho chic" look.

# Answer
The answer by RSchulz has a much better "hair" than I was able to find, but I did find a couple encouraging heads by searching for "angry face". **Edit:** Since the hair RSchulz found is not detachable from the head, I added hair at the end of the post.

They look like they're meant to be inside hoods/helmets so some modification (color matching, removing edge lines) may be necessary depending on how realistic or close-up you want to go.

Minifigure, Head Dual Sided Balaclava with Face Hole, Orange Eyebrows, Cheek Lines, Smile / Angry Pattern - Hollow Stud

Minifigure, Head Dual Sided Balaclava with Light Nougat Face, Red Eyes, Firm / Angry with Gritted Teeth Pattern - Hollow Stud

And the best hair I can find is this one:

Minifigure, Hair Ponytail High with Orange Flame Pattern
> 8 votes

# Answer
I wasn't able to find any standalone trans-orange flaming hair pieces, which really limits the flexibility of any design. The best I found was the head suggested by RSchulz. Note that this part does come in a number of colors and prints. Another possible option might be the Firestorm version:

Another option that doesn't look as much like fire but that gives more flexibility for selecting an appropriate face may be Syndrome's hair:
> 6 votes

# Answer
Nobody has posted anything better, so I'll try it as an answer:

Perhaps Ghost Rider? Minifigure, Head, Modified Alien with Trans-Orange Flaming Hair and Skull with Yellow Eyes Pattern
> 3 votes

---
Tags: design
---


# Question
Title: How is the curved top of the WWII Aid station tent made?
How did they make the curved top of the tent in the WWII Aid station?

# Answer
I assume you aren't looking for complete instructions, but rather interested in main element used to construct tent. In such case Sports Arena Section / Skateboard Ramp (43085) has been used in Tan.
> 17 votes

# Answer
The models featured on Bricklink include a parts list, model file and instructions. You can see there that the curved tent is a skateboard ramp and the edges are 1x4 tiles attached with Technic pin 1/2.
> 18 votes

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Tags: part-identification, design
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# Question
Title: Sell bulk by colour or by part or by both
I have 100’s of pounds of semi sorted Lego, mostly by colour.

Would it be beneficial to sort by colour and part to sell in bulk? Or sell a bulk lot of one colour but various bricks?

# Answer
It (obviously) depends on what people want to buy.

If someone wants to build something, and doesn't **totally** care what colors are used, then they'll want to buy categorized by shape. It's **so** much easier to find a red 2x4 in a bin of 2x4s than to find a red 2x4 in a bin of red pieces.

But if someone wants to build, say, Big Bird, then they'll just want yellow, and will want to buy categorized by color.

I think the former is **much** more common.

See also: Organizing your LEGO Bricks
> 7 votes

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Tags: shopping, colour
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# Question
Title: Looking for a big set of tires and rims for my monster truck - really beefy tires
I'm looking for big beefy tires and rims for my large Technic monster truck. I also need something for off-roading.

# Answer
You may want to check Sariel's Wheels chart. This table contains all essential details like dimensions of the wheel and rim as well as weight and how rare they are.
> 6 votes

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Tags: technic, compatibility, wheel
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# Question
Title: Can you identify these minifigures - sports, military and aliens
These have no marking on them. Does anyone know who made these and what set these are from?

# Answer
The third figure is from a Best-lock Military set

I think the alien figures are from Make-It Blocks

a Dollartree brand
> 2 votes

# Answer
The first two definitely look like Oyo. The others are identified (with photographic evidence) by @Syberion as Best-Lock and Make-It Blocks.
> 0 votes

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Tags: clone-brands, minifigure-identification
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