# Question
Title: Is it possible to use multiple IR beacons on different channels to control EV3?
One IR beacon has very few buttons and I would like to buy additional beacons and use them simultaneously to be able to control more channels.

I can't find any information if this setup will work. Can anyone provide references or maybe from the own experience if multiple IR beacons can be used?

I don't want to buy them and then figure out that only one can be used at a time.

# Answer
Yes, it is possible to use up to 4 beacons at the same time since there are 4 selectable infrared signal channels.

Also, the 8885 LEGO® Power Functions IR Remote Control is compatible with the EV3 Infrared Sensor if you have one of those already (it only has up down rocker switches and no beacon button, so it is not an exact replacement).

Other LEGO remote controls are not compatible.
> 2 votes

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Tags: ev3, remote-control
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title: Which part is this grey circular piece?

text:
# Question
Title: Which part is this grey circular piece?
Hello all, the base of the gun barrel, does anyone know which part is it?

# Answer
> 6 votes
This is called Middle Ring, or with the Bricklink terminology "Light Bluish Gray Technic Driving Ring Extension":

You can buy it here on Bricklink.

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information
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# Question
Title: Can someone help me identify this glitter dark-blue Mega Bloks part and possible sets it's in?
I need help identifying the following part please?

It has `AM 16956 4` printed on it, in addition to the Mega Bloks logo.

# Answer
> 5 votes
*Set #96845 Covenant Brute Chopper.*

Build instructions ***HERE***.

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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title: Can you please identify this set?

text:
# Question
Title: Can you please identify this set?
I got this set but it is missing pieces and I am trying to figure out which set it is. Can you help please?

# Answer
Looking up all sets that have this piece in tan, had me guessing at *Set #5771-1 Hillside House*.

**EDIT**: At least two maybe a third set...

Looking at white fence in upper right corner of 2nd pic.

*Set #3938 Andrea's Bunny House.*

Again looking at that upper right hand corner of 2nd pic.

I spy with my little eye a tan cone that is not in the previous sets.

*Set #Set 3937 Olivia's Speedboat*.

Possible 4th???
> 9 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Has LEGO Made A Minifigure-Scale Shopping Cart Piece?
For the current MOC I am working on, I am going to need a LEGO Minifigure-scale shopping cart. I thought I had seen one in an official set, but after searching Bricklink extensively, I am now not sure they have. **Has LEGO produced a shopping cart piece or will I just have to make my own?**

# Answer
> 7 votes
The 41118 Heartlake Supermarket contains a Friends scale shopping cart. This is how it looks like:

There is, however, a cute little MOC design with Window 1 x 2 x 2 2/3 Pane Lattice Diamond with Rounded Top on both sides and 1x2 tile modified grilles. This is, I think, a perfect shopping cart:

@MindS1 This is how far I got with it. The panes bend the grilles quite a bit. I would consider this an illegal building technique. I also don't see how the droid arms connect to the wheels and to the basket part.

# Answer
> 5 votes
*LEGO* heard the wishes, and finally put one out new this year *(2019)*.

*Part #49649 Minifigure, Utensil Shopping Cart Frame.*

*Part #2496 Wheel Skateboard / Trolley.*

Is this for a *Fortnite* project?

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information
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# Question
Title: Can you please help identify this light-green and gold set?
Can you guys please help me identify this set, looks like some Ninjago set, but that is as far as I can get.

# Answer
*Set #70612 Green Ninja Mech Dragon.*

The color, sand green, doesn't come up often in sets. Cross search a very unique piece in this off color, to get a short list of potential hits, then zone in.
> 9 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: How do you make your own LEGO instructions?
As per the title, how can I make my own LEGO instructions?

# Answer
Use LDD. LDD is a free program made by LEGO that enables you to build LEGO creations digitally, and it automatically can produce instructions for whatever you build. The main downsides are that it's very hard to use and the selection of pieces is not amazing, and that it is no longer being updated by LEGO. I use this program. Another option is to use stud.io. I don't know very much about it, but what I know is that it's a program made by BrickLink, and you can make your own designs for stuff and buy them off of bricklink.
> 0 votes

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Tags: instructions, lego-group
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# Question
Title: Why do Technic beams have an odd number of holes?
Why do LEGO Technic beams tend to have an odd numbers of holes? Is it for making it suitable for designing models? Or does the owner of The LEGO Group love either odd or even numbers?

# Answer
> 12 votes
It's to make them fit with the original Technic bricks which have an even number of studs and the holes go in-between.

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Tags: technic, piece-information, history
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# Question
Title: Question about compliance of LEGO videos on Youtube and the new COPPA rules
I make some LEGO videos and post them on Youtube. I'm wondering whether I should flag them as "for kids" or not. Most (if not all) of them are not intended to be specifically for kids, but for all people. They are mostly videos of my MOCs. According to my interpretation of Jangbricks's video on the subject, all LEGO videos (LEGO being a toy) should be flagged as "for kids". Is my interpretation correct? What should I do? Any answers are appreciated.

# Answer
> 1 votes
For the time being, it would be smart practice to mark any videos related to LEGO as "for kids," even if that is not your target audience. At the current moment, we know very little about what quantifies as "for kids," but "toys that appeal to children" most definitely includes LEGO. I suspect that we will learn more in the coming months as literally millions of YouTubers try to figure out what their content should be categorized under. At the moment, the risk is simply not worth it. Video deletion, Channel termination, and being fined large amounts of money are all possible if I read everything correctly. With that all said, I am not a lawyer, so I highly recommend you go ask the folks over at the Law Stack Exchange.

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Tags: moc
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# Question
Title: Is anyone able to identify these two pieces?
I'm struggling to identify these two parts. I have searched all parts on Rebrickable, but without any luck. Is someone out there able to help me?

# Answer
These are Skeleton Arm #4:

and Skeleton Leg:
> 18 votes

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Tags: part-identification, minifigure-identification
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# Question
Title: Rearing off to the left without telling it to
I've started to build a robot, but when it drives it veers off to the left even though I'm just telling it to go straight. I think I need to do something to the motors but I don't know what or how. I'm programming an NXT block.

# Answer
Veering off a little bit is normal. Can it be reduced? Yes. There are several possibilities to consider, one of which is the programming. Put a pin in the hub of each wheel to serve as a marker, spin the wheels so the in the same position. Write a program to go straight for 20 revolutions. Hold the robot in the air, run the program, and examine the location of the pins. The should match. Differences can be programming issues, but more likely the position sensors in the motors. Try switching swapping one motor and retrying the test.

More likely, putting the robot on the ground and running the program will show the pins match, but the robot veered. Again, several possible causes, one likely cause is the friction on one side of the robot is greater. Changing to a caster will reduce the friction and might help. Another possibility is that the motors are a bit wobbly and allow the axles to bend so they do not match. This can often be helped by adding a skirt on the outside of the robot to support the axles from the outside.
> 1 votes

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Tags: nxt, programming, motor
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# Question
Title: Can you change the sensitivity of an EV3 Touch Sensor?
My son is making a LEGO pinball machine and is wondering if it is possible to increase the sensitivity of an Ev3 Touch Sensor as when a ball hits it? Or does he need to use Color Sensors?

# Answer
It is not possible to increase the sensitivity of the touch sensor in-programming. Generally, you can use a lever to decrease the amount of force required.

Here the "load" is the touch sensor button, the "effort" is the ball hitting the lever, and the beam is a lego beam.

If the ball you're using is too light, you still probably won't be able to depress the touch sensor, regardless of how long the lever is. You can experiment with a heavier ball and a lever arm to try to get it working.

If you can't get a mechanical solution working, or if it is required that the ball is only detected when it hits a small target, a light/color sensor might be the next thing to try.

Side note, I think it's really great you're helping your son with his project. Feel free to post back here if you have more questions!
> 5 votes

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Tags: ev3, sensor-colour, sensor
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# Question
Title: What are these parts? Building Tip: Traffic Light Lego Creator
This look like a sturdy well designed set of traffic lights by LEGO. The constructing video links are below.

Unfortunately LEGO didn't provide the part details. I am no expert, can anyone help?

On the image I've put numbers next to unique parts. If you only know a few all good, we can collate them into a final list.

https://www.lego.com/en-us/kids/videos/creator/building-tip-traffic-light-252f2b716b40469a86f8688e5c8cad91

https://www.lego.com/en-us/kids/videos/creator-252f2b716b40469a86f8688e5c8cad91

# Answer
01 - *Part #6003 - Plate, Round Corner 6 x 6.*

* \[Color\] Dark Bluish Grey.

02 - *Part #3795 - Plate 2 x 6.*

* \[Color\] Dark Bluish Grey.

03 - *Part #3700 Technic, Brick 1 x 2 with Hole.*

* \[Color\] Black.

04 - *Part #60897 - Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Clip Vertical - Type 4 (thick open O clip).*

* \[Color\] Black.

05 - *Part #3024 - Plate 1 x 1.*

* \[Color\] Black.

06 - *Part # 98138 - Tile, Round 1 x 1.*

* \[Colors\] Trans-Red, Trans-Yellow, and Trans-Green.

07 - *Part #3069b - Tile 1 x 2 with Groove.*

* \[Color\] Black.

08 - *Part #2431 - Tile 1 x 4.*

* \[Color\] Light Bluish Grey.

09 - *Part #14418 - Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Small Towball Socket on End.*

* \[Color\] Light Bluish Grey.

10 - *Part #60474 - Plate, Round 4 x 4 with Hole.*

* \[Color\] Light Bluish Grey.

11 - *Part #3941 - Brick, Round 2 x 2 with Axle Hole.*

* \[Color\] Light Bluish Grey.

12 - *Part #32062 - Technic, Axle 2 Notched.*

* \[Color\] Red.

13 - *Part #6628 - Technic, Pin with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and Towball.*

* \[Color\] Black.

14 - Part #4519 - Technic, Axle 3.

* \[Color\] Light Bluish Grey.

15 - *Part #32073 - Technic, Axle 5.*

* \[Color\] Light Bluish Grey.

16 - *Part #60485 - Technic, Axle 9.*

* \[Color\] Light Bluish Grey.

17 - *Part #32034 - Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Angled #2 - 180 degrees.*

* \[Color\] Light Bluish Grey.

18 - *Part #32014 - Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Angled #6 - 90 degrees.*

* \[Color\] Light Bluish Grey.

19 - *Part #60187 - Hose, Rigid 3mm D. 4L / 3.2cm.*

* \[Color\] Light Bluish Grey.

20 - *Part #4274 - Technic, Pin 1/2.*

* \[Color\] Light Bluish Grey.

21 - *Part #32039 - Technic, Axle Connector with Axle Hole.*

* \[Color\] Light Bluish Grey.

22 - *Part #59443 - Technic, Axle Connector 2L (Smooth with x Hole + Orientation).*

* \[Color\] Light Bluish Grey.

**NEW!**

***FAST'N'Fuss-less*** download option:

If anyone is planning to purchase said pieces, I've amassed a LXF file with all the parts.

Just *download the file* to your system, go to *Bricklink.com*, create a new wanted list, and from there drag and drop this file.

**BOOM!** You're ready to buy your pieces.
> 8 votes

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information, creator
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# Question
Title: Anyone knows this piece with a clip and a pin hole?
Does anyone know what this piece is?

# Answer
This is the so-called Bad Robot Arm, introduced with the Exo-Force theme but used since then:
> 9 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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title: Help Me Identify This Brick / Bracket

text:
# Question
Title: Help Me Identify This Brick / Bracket
I'm trying to recreate the building in the picture (*Berghain by Matteo Plateroti*), but I'm having trouble finding what bricks, tiles, or brackets were used at the bottom layer with white stripes.

I assume those are 1x2 tiles at the front but what are they attached to?

Close-up (cut from a larger resolution image):

# Answer
> 16 votes
Picture little blurry, but this is what I see... The builder attached the tiles to *Part Number Forty-Seventy*.

*Part #4864a*, the (black) window piece is really *trans-black* in color, but the way it's used here, with it being reversed and all, obstructs the proper identity of the white 1x1 bricks, causing some viewing tricks on the eyes...

# Answer
> 3 votes
Welcome to Bricks.SE! The picture is a bit of an eye-chart, but upon zooming in you can see that the white lines (and the grey lines in other pillars) are half a plate high. This means they are likely the vertical part of a white 99780 Bracket 1x2 - 1x2 Inverted or 99207 Bracket 1x2 - 2x2 Inverted, placed vertically facing down against the back structure of the building.

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information
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# Question
Title: Does anyone know what these gold and dark green pieces make?
I have these LEGO pieces and I don't know what they go to.

# Answer
Looks like *Set #70503 - The Golden Dragon.*
> 10 votes

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification
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# Question
Title: Is there a way to convert .ev3 files to .uf2 files?
I am using Lego Mindstorms EV3 Education Edition and I am wondering if there is a way to convert the default `.ev3` files to `.uf2` files

# Answer
> 3 votes
The `.UF2` file format appears to be a fairly compact, binary format for reliably transferring data to "microcontrollers" (i.e. small embedded systems such as the EV3 controller), and is the format used by the Microsoft MakeCode application, recommended as part of the First LEGO League.

The `.ev3` file is actually a zip file containing a number of additional files, of which the `.ev3p` is an XML file representing the program itself.

At this time there isn't an official way to convert `.ev3` programs to the `.uf2` format, not least because things like custom blocks will need to be re-written in JavaScript, and certain other features may not be currently supported (i.e. data logging beyond console logging, 3rd party sensors, etc.).

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Tags: ev3, technic, robotic, education
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# Question
Title: Can I use the original Lego Boost to create the R2D2 droid set?
My son has the original Lego Boost set (with Vernie, Frankie, etc), but is also a big Star Wars fan and would be love to have the R2D2 droid version. Would it be possible to control the original boost set with the new droid specific functionality, or is the move hub not compatible with the Star Wars app functions?

I am thinking of building the R2D2 droid from parts rather than buy the whole set again.

# Answer
Theoretically possible, but I think you'll find that the droid set contains quite a bit of lego elements that are rather rare, and hence difficult to find in your own collection or from other sources like bricklink. But at least the electronics can be re-used from the 17101 set.

I myself bought the 75253 boost commander droid set. You can build all three models, but motors and hub needs to be switched from model to model. Since I had a couple of 17101 Lego Boost set lying around, I used those components to complete the other two models. You do need a couple of extra parts, which are a bit easier sourced from your own collection or bricklink:
> 9 votes

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Tags: star-wars, boost
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title: Double linear actuator boom movement

text:
# Question
Title: Double linear actuator boom movement
The following Technic sets

* 8043 (Motorized excavator)
* 42009 (Mobile crane)
* 42082 (Rough terrain crane)
* 42110 (Liebherr)

and likely a couple of more have a double set of linear actuators to move the boom.

For all these models, rotation is administered simultaneously on the gears of the linear actuators through bevel gears that are symmetrically placed.

I've been told that the symmetrical placement of the bevel gears is problematic. The reasoning being that as the boom moves up or down, additional rotation is placed on the linear actuator gears, but in opposite direction, causing one LA to slightly retract while the other to slightly extend, causing torsion on the boom. Hence it would be better to place the bevel gears asymmetrical.

My questions:

* Is the reasoning wrong? (I think not)
* If the reasoning is correct, why are the Lego designers seemingly not aware of this and haven't they addressed this in later Technic sets ?

# Answer
> Is the reasoning wrong?

Most probably it is not wrong, but its effect is small enough to be negligible (at least compared to other factors, like ensuring an error-free building experience). In serious engineering applications this effect would certainly have to be taken into account.

> why are the Lego designers seemingly not aware of this and haven't they addressed this in later technic sets?

I took a look at my copy of the Bucket Wheel Excavator, and found that there is a minuscule difference in the angle of the double linear actuators between the highest and lowest boom elevation configurations:

I don't have the relevant values right now, but I'd guess this angle of rotation does not result in a measurable difference in the lenghts of the two actuators. Or if it does, it is certainly absorbed by the flexibility of the structure without causing any harmful amounts of stress.

I think the same applies for the other such sets as well, but I'd welcome anyone providing data to either confirm or disprove this theory.
> 2 votes

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Tags: technic, design
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# Question
Title: Is the EV3RSTORM from Lego Mindstorms programmable using a real programming language?
I'm a software developer and Lego fan. I'll create a robot with Lego Mindstorms, but I'll like to know that the is EV3RSTORM is programable using a real programming language *(Python, C#, JavaScript, etc.)*.

I don't like the brick system because it's too 'easy' for me.

# Answer
The EV3 brick runs a linux kernel so it is extremely compatible with many different programming languages. 3rd-party support packages for basically any language you can think of have been made, and most are very mature by this point. A quick google search can come up with some of these. This previous post, among many others on this site, can help point you in the right direction.

In summary, EV3Dev is always a good starting point - the framework is kind of a catch-all of the various programming languages available. LeJOS (Java) is a big step up in terms of features (and is generally higher performance than an on-brick Python interpreter, for example). The highest performance solution is probably EV3RT, if you really want to practice your embedded C/C++. But for a project as simple as EV3RSTORM, EV3Dev should be more than sufficient.
> 5 votes

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Tags: ev3, programming
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# Question
Title: Where can I buy bulk DUPLO sized bricks?
I am working on a project where I need LOTS of basic DUPLO sized bricks and/or plates. I need only the simple sizes, 2x2 and 2x4 and possibly 2x6. I do not want any pieces with curves, slopes, decals, etc...

I do not even require them to be LEGO brand. It would be an added benefit if they were, but I really just need to cheapest way to find lots of these pieces.

I would like a source for NEW or LIKE NEW parts. I don't necessarily have to have new parts, but I don't want to mess around with ordering used parts that can have a wide variety of things wrong with them.

I have looked on Bricklink, as they have been an awesome resource for normal sized LEGO parts. However, there just doesn't seem to be much of a supply of DUPLO on there.

Any ideas where to look next?

Perhaps there is a Clone brand that I can order specific parts from?

# Answer
> 4 votes
Duplo is less often stocked than normal LEGO, but this (US) Bricklink store seems to have quite some in stock. You might find other Bricklink stores in different parts of the world that have stock as well.

Another option is looking for the 10622 Duplo Large Creative Box, which was on Black Friday sale at Walmart recently. It can still be found on Amazon and eBay, but contains many "other" kinds of bricks apart from your basic 2x4 and 2x2 bricks. Also, at ~$0.30 per brick (MSRP) this might not be your cheapest option - the Bricklink store I linked earlier has 2x2 bricks for as little as $0.12. Also check out last year's 10557 Duplo Creative Tower \- it has more pieces (200 vs 193) and sells for less on Amazon currently.

You can also find bulk lots of Duplo bricks on eBay, such as this one. Price with shipping is still ~$0.30 per brick.

EDIT: Two more options:

1) If you're in North America, go look up a second-hand baby/children's clothing store like Once Upon A Child. I went there today and found several sealed bags and boxes with Duplo blocks. Common price was ~$6 for a bag. It was difficult to see what was in each item, but this might get you something.

2) You can look at Mega Blocks - their large bricks don't interconnect with LEGO or Duplo, but depending on what you are trying to do that might not matter. You could always stack them sideways, or modify them, or even (yikes!) glue LEGO bricks on top to make a connection.

# Answer
> 4 votes
The official Lego site sells individual Duplo and Lego bricks, but they don't make it easy. For Lego it's not too hard, just Shop By Bricks, then Pick a Brick. For Duplo it's less obvious: hover over the Support tab, then click on Replacement parts, then Buy Bricks (for some reason they then ask how old you are; no Duplo to be sold to under 18's, like beer). You can then enter the Set number or Element/design number. I found the Element/design number by first searching the site for Duplo sets (Themes, Duplo), choosing a set and entering the Set number into the Set number bar, then getting the individual Design number for each part of the set I wanted. (Do they want us to buy the stuff or what?) I found the Design number for standard 4X2 Duplo bricks is 3011, for 2X2 it's 3437, for 3X2 it's 87084, and 6X2 is 2300. Individual Brick prices range from about £ .59 to £2.46 depending on design and colour. It took me over an hour to figure this out and buy some bricks. I hope this makes it a lot easier for anyone else. Happy Building!

# Answer
> 1 votes
Most of the time, best place to obtain LEGO bricks in any shape and colour is Bricklink.

# Answer
> 0 votes
There are always "starter packs" with more of the simplest Duplo bricks available, at the time of the writing of this answer those are the sets #10848 (My First Bricks), #10572 (lego duplo all in one box of fun), and #10887 (Creative Fun).

# Answer
> 0 votes
I don't know what the equivalent in your country is, but I've had a lot of luck with Craigslist in the USA. When my daughter first got interested, I found a table with a TON of bricks for about $100, and I regularly see bulk DUPLO lots in the $30-80 range.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I've had good luck at donation driven places such as The Goodwill, Salvation Army, and thrift stores.

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Tags: duplo, lugbulk
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# Question
Title: What LEGO set do these numbered bags of pieces come from?
I found these bags in the attic any idea what LEGO set they belong to?

They are numbered 1, 3 and 5, but I don't know if they all came from the same set or not.

# Answer
> 17 votes
These bags don't seem to belong to any specific LEGO set.

First, they are filled very sparsely. Normally LEGO bags are filled with more elements than that depicted here.

Secondly, in bag #3 we clearly see a Plate 6X6 W. Bow in medium lilac:

And a Right Plate 3X8 W/Angle in bright yellow:

But these two parts have never been sold in the same set. These contain the lilac plate, and these the yellow plate.

So the only remaining possibilities are, in order of descending probability:

1. The bags have been opened and the contents changed (possibly resealed later)
2. These are not genuine LEGO products (but the bags do have "The LEGO Group" printed on them)
3. Someone at a LEGO factory has made a grave mistake

# Answer
> 11 votes
The dark purple plate pulls up only three sets, but these brick combinations don't match a set from those three. Hmmm... If the bags are sealed then they might have been a custom *LEGO* "*Pick-a-Brick*" order.

LEGO has two versions of the LEGO Pick-A-Brick service. One is inside a brick and mortar store, the other is selected on line.

If a customer's online order exceeds a certain threshold, (can't remember, something like 200 bricks), then the order is sent to the LEGO main distribution factory in Denmark, which adds three or so weeks to get your bricks, but I think they seal/ship them in these bags.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: LEGO Boost Windows application malfunction
When I like to run an external driver, my LEGO hub is driving B driver when driven from PC (Windows 10 app installed).
When I try the same application using a smartphone it works as expected.

Have you encountered a similar situation?

# Answer
The issue is connected with that Lego stopped supporting and developing Windows application.
> 1 votes

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Tags: boost
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# Question
Title: Is there a way to plan and organize your LEGO project like a GitHub hosted software?
I have the idea to host, plan and maintain a LEGO project (building a MOC in several steps with different functionalities) like a software in GitHub. The project should have forks, pull requests and version tracking.

1. Is there a possibility to do this with existing software? LDD, Leocad, Stud.io in combination with GitHub or similar?
2. How to realize a crowd/community project that builds on a LEGO model? What functionality might be needed?

# Answer
> 9 votes
While you could indeed manage the project with a tool like GitHub (using the Issues feature), you might be better off initially managing the tasks through a tool like Trello which allows you to create tasks and move them through various status (i.e. Planned, In Progress, Review, Complete) in a fairly simple, intuitive user interface.

An issue with managing the actual project files within source control is around the format of them - some file types work better than others when it comes to source control, and some formats of those types work better than others as well.

Git is a "Distributed Version Control System", which means that anyone can work on any file in the repository on their local machine - this is usually fine when working with text based files, but is not so good when you have binary files, because understanding the differences between two versions is often not easy. If the tool you choose stores projects in binary files, Git is probably not the best option.

I would strongly recommend that you consider a **Centralised Version Control System** such as Subversion (SVN) or Team Foundation Version Control (TFVC or TFS) as this allows your collaborators to "checkout" or "lock" a specific file to say they are working on it, and then when they've updated it, "check-in" their changes - this will (hopefully) get around the main pain points of trying to merge changes in these files, albeit with the caveat that you might still have people check-out a file and then "go dark" and forget to check it back in for a long time.

Sadly for you, most developers have moved to Git based source control, as it's very good at dealing with code files, and generally much quicker when working locally, allows for "offline" working, etc. and solves the problem of people working on different parts of the same file or project simultaneously, so most of the free options (GitHub, GitLab, etc.) focus on that. You might be able to use the free options within Azure DevOps to create a TFS based project, or find another SVN host for your project. Most of these also offer "Work Item" tracking for task planning and management.

In terms of the current software for building your MoC, the likely contenders are:

1. **Stud.io** \- uses a binary (.zip) format. This doesn't play well in Git. Furthermore it's a password protected archive, so you can't easily extract the underlying .ldr files.
2. **LDraw** \- uses a text based format. Potentially a better fit for Git, however the format itself would be very easy to mess up in merges if two people work on the same model files at the same time.
3. **LEGO Digital Designer** \- uses a text (XML) based format. Potentially a good fit for Git. While XML can get messed up in merges, it's usually easier to see in merge tools where the changes should belong, and so easier to correct/adjust if two people work on the same model file. However, this is likely end-of-life now, especially with the announced purchase of BrickLink by The LEGO Group.
> **What about Studio and LEGO Digital Designer – what will happen with the two digital building experiences since they’re quite similar?**
> The LEGO Group is planning to support and evolve Studio and will review opportunities for both services following the closing of the deal.

# Answer
> 7 votes
I'll address some points from Zhaph - Ben Duguid's answer:

> While you could indeed manage the project with a tool like GitHub (using the Issues feature), you might be better off initially managing the tasks through a tool like Trello which allows you to create tasks and move them through various status (i.e. Planned, In Progress, Review, Complete) in a fairly simple, intuitive user interface.

Github actually has this as well in the form of Project Boards. They integrate with the rest of the GitHub ecosystem, so you can reference issues, pull requests, assign milestones and labels, etc.

> Git is a "Distributed Version Control System", which means that anyone can work on any file in the repository on their local machine - this is usually fine when working with text based files, but is not so good when you have binary files, because understanding the differences between two versions is often not easy.

This was a painful point for a long while. However, git now supports Large File Storage. It stores references to the files, so checking changes between commits would show that a file was updated and not waste space trying to calculate diffs. I have used this for images and other binary files and it works well, though it does add a small extra step to upload or download the files when pushing or pulling.

You could easily use LFS for the various binary files the programs use for creating.

**Edit: File locking**

> I would strongly recommend that you consider a Centralised Version Control System such as Subversion (SVN) or Team Foundation Version Control (TFVC or TFS) as this allows your collaborators to "checkout" or "lock" a specific file to say they are working on it, and then when they've updated it, "check-in" their changes - this will (hopefully) get around the main pain points of trying to merge changes in these files, albeit with the caveat that you might still have people check-out a file and then "go dark" and forget to check it back in for a long time.

Git LFS also has file locking (Since 2.0, March 2017). I do agree that it is more complicated than SVN. I do not know if the web platforms or desktop apps (GitHub Desktop) show locks, but I do know that you can lock and manage locks via the command line:

```
git lfs lock file.ext    # lock file
git lfs locks            # show locked files
git lfs unlock file.ext  # unlock file

```

You can enable locking for an extension across a repo by adding `*.[extension] lockable` to your `.gitattributes` file, and if a user has locked a file and disappeared someone with the proper permissions can unlock the file with `git lfs unlock file.ext --force`.

---
Tags: technic, lego-group, afol
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# Question
Title: Issues with my LEGO Land Rover Defender - Low rear
Just built the 42110 LEGO Land Rover Defender and found the rear of the car sitting very low on its base and the rear wheels almost touching the wheel arches.

This is very low compared to the front end, what have I done wrong in the build, and how can I correct it please?

# Answer
> 9 votes
I would suggest looking at a speed build of this model and comparing the placement of pieces with that of your own.

So, let's try...this guy's video =\> *The Austrian Lego Fan* seems to have banged out a step by step build of this model, which shows a many angles of the area you're have issues with.

To get those butt-dragging results, you may have got your springs pinned in the wrong hole. Hey, but we can give more input if you provide a pic or two.

Both pictures are the same. One is text-less so the words don't get in the way.

Focus your attention on these spots. Is each spring pinned to the correct hole?

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Tags: technic, sets, vehicle
---


title: Advanced mode in EV3 ultrasonic sensor

text:
# Question
Title: Advanced mode in EV3 ultrasonic sensor
The EV3 Ultrasonic Sensor has an “Advanced mode" which measures either in centimeters or in inches. When exactly do you use this mode? Why doesn’t the sensor send just a single ultrasonic signal?

# Answer
> 1 votes
From the official LEGO education site:

> Measure – Advanced - Centimeters
>
> The Measure – Advanced – Centimeters mode is similar to the Measure – Distance Centimeters mode, except that you can choose whether the sensor sends a single ultrasonic signal or continuous signals with the Measuring Mode input. The distance in centimeters is output in the Distance in Centimeters."

I can only guess to the reason why LEGO implemented this “Measuring Mode” option in a separate Advanced mode, but most likely it is to hide the subtle difference, which might be difficult to understand at first, from beginner users. The default measuring mode is the easiest to understand.

---
Tags: ev3, mindstorms, sensor-ultrasonic
---


# Question
Title: How to fix the 4.3V output supply of a NXT 2.0?
I have a Mindstorm NXT 2.0 from 2007 (PCB code: 62115.40H) at which the sensors except the simple "Touch sensor" are no longer working. Also the tacho-signal of the motors do no longer work. (The motors work but do not stop after e.g. 5 rotations)

By looking at the schematics of the slightly older NXT (1.0) I could figure out that the problem seems to be caused by a defect in the 4.3V output supply. So I opened the housing and measured at TP79 of my NXT 2.0 the voltage of IPOWERA, IPOWERB, IPOWERC, IPOWERD and POWERMA, POWERMA, POWERMC. The voltage was not having 4.3V while the 5V supply "VCC\_RS485" from which the 4.3V output supply is generated was fine.

My problem: The circuit which generates the 4.3V output supply from VCC\_RS485 was changed in the NXT-2.0, while I can only find the schematics of the older NXT (1.0). This made it for me impossible to find the defective component (since nothing looks obviously defective)

Does anybody know how to fix the 4.3V output supply of an NXT-2.0?
Or does anybody know where to find the schematics of the NXT-2.0?

# Answer
Finally I've found a solution. It is not perfect since I wasn't able to find the schematics of the NXT-2.0 nor could I reverse engineer it. But this workaround seems to work pretty well.

This workaround works at the following conditions:

* You have an NXT-2.0 (not a NXT-1)
* The 4.3V voltage for the motors and sensors is no longer there (Voltage at C61 is zero.)
* The 5.0V voltage VCC\_RS485 has still 5.0V (Voltage at C57 is 5V)

As you can see in the image below I soldered a 1N4007 rectifier diode between the positive terminal of capacitor C57 and the positive terminal of C61. The cathode of the diode has to touch C61. Ensure not to touch the test-point T41 close to C57 since this should have 3.3V on NXT-2.0 (while it had 5V on NXT-1).

A silicon rectifier diode causes usually a ~0.7V drop. So it makes 4.3V from the correct 5V source. If you don't have an exact drop of 0.7V don't worry: The NXT motors work also with the Lego-EV3 and according to the spec. of the EV3 that brick sends even 5V directly to the motor-sensors. (So even a wire instead of the diode might work - but I used the diode to stay on the safe side)

To solder the diode you have to open the NXT and to disconnect the battery holder, which requires some desolder work.

Dependent on your skills this might be some tricky work. Please don't blame me if this kills your NXT totally. Only do it if your feeling qualified to do it and if you've understood the explanations above.
> 2 votes

# Answer
I was in same situation. In my case I fixed the problem replacing C61 capacitor that was shorted. I have found this schematic, but it seems not corresponding to 2.0 also because I can't follow it.
> 1 votes

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Tags: nxt, repair, electronics
---


# Question
Title: Help identifying inverted wedge with studs on the slope
I have found these bricks (images below), which have "Lego" branding, but there is no model numbers on it.

The white brick has "4" and "A" on the back, and the red has "6" and "A".

I've searched BrickLink for ages to no avail.

# Answer
> 5 votes
It's an old piece from 1969 - 1982, typically used for train cars or trucks with buckets that could be tipped to dump their contents.

3145 Vehicle, Tipper End Flat with Pins

There's also a newer variant from 1996 - 2016 without the pins and hole.

30022 Vehicle, Tipper End Flat without Pins

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Tags: part-identification
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title: What LEGO set has the biggest box?

text:
# Question
Title: What LEGO set has the biggest box?
I know the 2017 LEGO Star Wars Millennium Falcon is the biggest set in terms of piece count, but what is the biggest box a regular set ever came in?

By regular set I mean produced for the mass markets, and not something like The ultimate battle for Chima (just an example, not saying that it is the biggest box).

# Answer
As far as regular sets go (ie. no furniture or big-boxes like that Chima combo), the current UCS Millennium Falcon does appear to be the largest box by total volume.

## 75192-1 Millennium Falcon - UCS (2nd edition)

54 x 45 x 39 cm = 94770 cm3

54 x 45 cm = 2430 cm2

The original UCS Millennium Falcon box was actually larger in 2 directions however, though the total volume is smaller.

# 10179-1 Millennium Falcon - UCS

64.39 x 47.63 x 19.69 cm = 60387.176333 cm3

64.39 x 47.63 cm = 3066.8957 cm2

There appear to be a number of sets that are larger in at-least one direction, see this answer for the longest one identified so-far.
> 21 votes

# Answer
Maybe straining the definition a little (although not too much, as at-least some of them did come with LEGO pieces), LEGO has in the past sold furniture.

I think all of these items were shipped disassembled, and I can't find much information on exactly how large the box they came in was and can't be sure what I did find is accurate, but I would imagine one of these items takes the cake (depending on your definition of largest).

## 4509g - 3-Seat Playtable (101.5 x 74.5 x 18.5 cm)

## 5004063 - 3-Seat Playtable (probably about same size)

## 5003468 - 3-Seat Playtable Creative Play Station Center Pack (probably about same size)

## 5003483 - 3-Seat Playtable Creative Play Station Center Pack Duplo (probably about same size)

## IF-LTW2C - Activity Table and Chair Set (67.8 x 66.8 x 27.94 cm)
> 15 votes

# Answer
Straining the definition a little less than Alexander, some of the First LEGO League challenges came in boxes with the mat folded, making the box unexceptional, but some came in boxes with the mat rolled up.

According to bricklink the 2015 challenge came in a box that was 117 cm long. That is quite a bit more than any of the dimensions of the Millenium Falcon, which according to bricklink came in a box that was 54 x 45 x 39 cm. As I haven't seen other boxes that thick I'm going to guess that takes the price according to volume. (possibly discounting the furniture).

Another regular set that has a large box is 71043 Hogwarts Castle, according to bricklink that box is 58.5 x 48.5 x 18.5 cm, that is a larger front then the Millenium Falcon, but under half the thickness.

I also believe the Millenium Falcon wins on weight, if that is what you meant by size, and can come in a "trolly box":
> 12 votes

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Tags: sets, packaging
---


# Question
Title: What is the use of a single ultrasonic signal?
The EV3 ultrasonic sensor has an advanced mode that includes an option to use single or continuous sensing as described in the Help page:

> You can choose whether the sensor sends a single ultrasonic signal or continuous signals with the Measuring Mode input.

What is the purpose of a single ultrasonic signal? In what situations may the sensor need to send a single signal?

# Answer
I'm not an EV3 expert, but my understanding is that continuous mode stores results into a buffer that can be read nearly instantly. Single mode will need to wait to hear a ping back before reporting results.

Continuous mode will give you a faster response time. However, if you are using a number of ultrasonic sensors, they may interfere with one another, and using single mode should prevent this.
> 6 votes

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms, piece-information, piece-usage, sensor-ultrasonic
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title: What LEGO set has the smallest box?

text:
# Question
Title: What LEGO set has the smallest box?
Similar to What Lego set has the biggest box? but probably more-challenging to answer, what LEGO set has the *smallest* box (either square or cubic dimensions work)?

I'm talking actual sets with an item number and an actual boxes, not polybags or sub-components in a set (like a minifig cape box).

# Answer
I thought that promotional boxed sets were good candidates for the smallest box as well, as I own a 1630-1 Helicopter (which, incidentally, I got as a promotional gift for buying toothpaste at some point in the 90s IIRC), at 7 x 7 x 4.5 cm (220cm3/0.22 litres).

There are sets with similar dimensions as well, such as 5018-1 Gravity Games Promotional Set at 7 x 7.5 x 4 cm (210cm3/0.21 litres), 7912-1 Helicopter Promotional (Duracell), 5017-1 Hockey Promotional set. and some others.

I thought those were the smallest in volume, but after a deeper search on bricklink I came up with a thinner 2.5cm (281-1 1 x 2 and 3 x 2 Sloping Bricks, Red with 8.6 x 6.2 x 2.5 cm / 133cm3/0.133 litres):

And after delving in the sets with a low part cound, I came up with an even thinner 1.8cm box with 1222-2 1x1 round bricks, at 7.5 x 5.5 x 1.8 cm (74.25cm3/0.074 litres) (same box size as 1241-2, 1240-2, 1230-2 and possibly others):

Also of note are the 1:87-scale cars from the 60s, like e.g. 265-2 1:87 Karmann Ghia with Garage:

The "box" itself is a transparent hollow brick, specifically part number 721, 4x8 studs wide by 3 bricks high wrapped in a paper strip, which puts it at 3.2cm x 6.4cm x 3.04cm or 62.25cm3/0.062 litres. (Hey, you asked for the smallest box, not the smallest *cardboard* box!)

Apparently some of these 1:87-scale cars, e.g. 671-3 1:87 Vauxhall Victor Estate with Garage were sold with an actual cardboard box around them, with listed dimensions of 3.2 x 3.2 x 6.5cm (66.56cm3/0.066 litres):
> 12 votes

# Answer
As with “biggest”, smallest also has different definitions (weight? Width? Volume?). Here are a few candidates:

5005250 Party Banana Juice Bar \- 8 x 4.5 x 11 cm (the Chicken version also qualifies)

600-2 Police Patrol \- 9.5 x 5.6 x 3.6 cm

I don’t have a link or box picture, but the Dutch store opening gift Windmill comes in a pretty small box as well.

EDIT: Michael Verschaeve pointed me to the BL entry for the Windmill. 14.5 x 14.5 x 4.5 doesn’t exactly make the box a good candidate.
> 5 votes

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Tags: sets, packaging
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# Question
Title: Where is the motor in the 42082 Rough Terrain Crane box supposed to be?
The Rough Terrain Crane set (42082) has an outer box with a lot of parts-bags and the 4 wheels in it.
And there is an 2nd inner box with the manuals, the battery-holder and more parts-bags.

I received my set yesterday and did a quick check on the parts-bags but I couldn't locate the motor.
Didn't actually open any of the bags. Will leave that until I'm ready to actually build the thing during the Christmas holiday.

Does anyone know where the motor is supposed to be?
Loose in the inner- or outer-box, one of the parts-bags in the inner-box, one of the bags in the outer-box?

I probably just overlooked it, but knowing where to look for that motor would help.

# Answer
> 4 votes
YouTuber *Swedish Brick* put up a nice unboxing video of your set ***here***.

The motor/battery box seem to be in the white enclosed box, he pulls them both out off camera.

By his video, you will end up with:

* 26 Bags.
* 2 Motors 1 Battery holder, and 1 Motor in a sealed bag.
* 4 Wheels.
* 4 Rims.
* A sealed instructions bag with 1 sheet of stickers, and 2 large manuals.

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Tags: piece-information, packaging
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title: Removable glue for LEGO models

text:
# Question
Title: Removable glue for LEGO models
I want to glue my 4-year-old's LEGO bricks, but I want to be able to remove the glue when he is older. What is the best glue to use that is removable and okay to use on LEGO bricks?

# Answer
Officially, LEGO Group doesn't recommend any adhesive on the toys. It can lead to corrosion or warping chemically, warping physically (the glue puts pressure on the pieces), and the removal of the adhesive also carries these risks. Plus, you'd be killing not only the the monetary value of the set, but the ability of those pieces to be active stimuli for creativity and motor skills.

The LEGO Movie clearly shows that using glue on the toys is what the villain does.
> 11 votes

# Answer
I would say low temp hot glue. I have done this for several my son really wanted to "keep". I figure one day he will be able to take it apart but it saves it from dropping and such!
> 8 votes

# Answer
Your question doesn't explain why you want to glue the models for a 4 year old, so I'm going to go ahead and advocate that you don't glue and instead let your 4 year old build. 4 years old is a great time to be learning the fine motor skills, geometry, physics, colour and esthetics, not to mention creativity and storytelling. Gluing the models takes away their potential and makes Lego a blocky imitation of other toys.

Lego sells kits to 4 year olds (the Juniors line) that uses the exact same parts as the more complicated models in the other product lines. The main difference is build complexity; Lego Juniors use simple builds with few parts. With a bit of practice, your child should be able to handle the more complex construction of the other lines, which are typically set for ages 5 and up. That's only next year anyway.
> 7 votes

# Answer
There are three factors you have to consider here: the possible chocking hazard for your child, the possible toxicity of the glue to your child, and the degree of removability of the glue.

I don't think there exist a glue that is (1) completely secure (i.e. won't allow small parts to become chocking hazards), (2) safe to be handled and possibly ingested, and (3) completely removable for future play.

If I have to recommend a glue with the safety of your child in mind, I would recommend Super-glue. Once dry, it is non-toxic and it won't melt the plastic in the bricks. However, it is more-or-less permanent, which is important for safe playing time (and obviously doesn't meet condition 3 above).

I strongly recommend that you consider age-appropriate building toys, such as LEGO Duplo bricks. If you visit the LEGO Store, you can shop sets by age range to get an idea of what is available for your child.
> 3 votes

# Answer
As Nick says, LEGO System is probably not quite the right toy for a 4 year old. LEGO Duplo or possibly the new LEGO Juniors range would be better. LEGO obviously caution about the small parts on almost all System sets.

However, if you're looking for a temporary glue for now, then I'd probably go with a water based glue such as PVA that you'll eventually be able to soak off.

Be aware though, that this will not create as secure a bond as a permanent glue, so I would certainly advise supervising the play in case smaller elements come off.
> 2 votes

# Answer
You could perhaps try `hot glue` in some old test parts and after a few days, use rubbing alcohol to remove the joining power of the glue.

I use this method in foam planes and it separates the glue just fine.
> 1 votes

# Answer
www.le-glue.com is perfect for what you need.
> 0 votes

# Answer
If the goal is just to make the LEGO builds sturdier, and not straight unbreakable, I'd give a thought to the various food-based "glues", like sugar syrup (will probably become sticky to the touch as well) or flour paste. Both have the benefits of being 100% food-safe and water-soluble, while still providing a bit of adhesive force.
> 0 votes

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Tags: glue
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# Question
Title: How to verify authenticity of smaller LEGO parts?
Can anyone help me identify the logo or mark on some smaller LEGO pieces?

* I have many 1\*1\*2/3 slope with no LEGO stamp but do have a (C) copyright symbol (full circle not just brackets) and a number
* Dark green - 3 with no number, n.o 31, n.o 3, n.o 5
* Red/brown - n.o 29, 2 with n.o 15.
* Trans orange and red - 8 with different or no n.o

The colours are spot on and I can't fault the quality, so I assume these are genuine however I would like to know if this (C) symbol and the general quality is a solid identifying method.

Also with the 1\*1 round brick and nose cone - are there ANY markings usually?

Also with the weapons and tools - I have many with a (C) but some with nothing...

Any hints or tips?

# Answer
> 4 votes
> I have many 1\*1\*2/3 slope

On this piece the LEGO marking should be seen on the flat, semicircular part on the bottom:

> Dark green - 3 with no number, n.o 31, n.o 3, n.o 5

I'm sorry, but I can't identify this piece, a photo would be helpful here.

> Red/brown - n.o 29, 2 with n.o 15.

Just like here

> Trans orange and red - 8 with different or no n.o

Or here.

> Also with the 1\*1 round brick and nose cone - are there ANY markings usually?

Yes, there are, but they are quite tricky to find. On the 1x1 round, you should be able find the marking on the inner side of the top ring, facing down:

While on the cone, it is similarly on the underside of the flat ring, but close to the bottom, so easier to see:

> Also with the weapons and tools - I have many with a (C) but some with nothing...

These are quite broad categories, so if you have any specific pieces, I'd love to help you :)

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information
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# Question
Title: Can you identify these LEGO bags from the thrift store? Mostly white and dark grey pieces, and some bared doors
I got these at the thrift store. What set did these come from?

# Answer
> 9 votes
Based on:

BRICK 1X16, Ø4,9 in white

LATTICE FOR FRAME 4X6 in Medium Stone Grey

TRAPDOOR FRAME 6X8 in Dark Stone Grey

4504228: Wall Element 1X6X5, Abs in white

and the trans blue parts window pieces

These bags are from:

60047-1: Police Station

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Yet, another part ID question: Large blue dish
Does anyone have an idea what the circled piece could be? Picture from this Flickr gallery.

I'm thinking it's circular so I've been scouring BrickLink for dishes and disks but have not been successful so far. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

# Answer
*Set #4417- Aero Pod*.

1. Top. Part #4767 - Blue Container, X-Pod Top Cap 9 x 9 x 1 1/3.
2. Middle.  Part #47674 - Trans-Yellow Container, X-Pod Barrel Section 10 x 10 x 3 1/3.
3. Bottom.  Part #47676 - Blue Container, X-Pod Bottom Cap 9 x 9 x 1.
> 8 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: What alternative LEGO-compatible toys are avaliable?
My kids love LEGO toys, but we find them expensive. Often, they get all the sets of a series, but keep asking for something similar.

We have thus begun buying Mega Bloks and Kre-O, which include some very fancy stuff such as Transformers and CityVille Invasion.

I was wondering what sort of other alternative brick toys are available which are still compatible with LEGO brick.

# Answer
> 21 votes
"Communist LEGO" is a comprehensive list of all the LEGO imitators and clone brands. It is an interesting read: https://uploads.brickset.com/docs/clonebrands\_v1.8.pdf

Keep in mind that, while clone brands may be cheaper at the beginning, they have minimal or no resale value, and thus can end up being more expensive than genuine LEGO. Because of LEGO's quality, reputation and popularity, you can always resell your collection once your kids outgrow them, and thus recoup the money you spent (as long as your kids kept them in reasonably good condition). Clones are hard to even give away, not to speak of selling.

Another thing to consider is safety. LEGO puts tremendous care and effort into making sure that their products are safe. This is not always the case with cheap imitators. Children often put toys in their mouths. You don't want to expose them to lead-based paints on printed items and leaching plastics.

Mega-Bloks and Kre-O should be safe as they are made by leading toy manufacturers with a long history. Their products are not the same quality as LEGO, so the resale value is not as good, but at least you know they won't poison your kids. It is best to stick with products with proven safety records rather than choosing toys just because they are cheap.

Also, you might consider the educational value of LEGO. It is not just a toy, but a system for building and learning. Math, science, coordination, engineering and creativity are all integral part of building with LEGO, and many schools and educational institutions use LEGO as part of their curriculum. So if you look at the whole package - quality, safety, and value - LEGO will still likely be your best option.

Based on your original post it appears that your children already have a good amount of LEGO, but they keep asking for more. I would suggest that you explore new activities with the LEGO they already have. LEGO provides many alternate building instructions, project suggestions, games, and lessons on their website, and there are also third-party websites, books and other materials to let your children explore the endless possibilities even a handful of LEGO bricks can provide.

# Answer
> 5 votes
Mega Bloks and Kre-O are almost certainly the best LEGO clones out there when it comes to compatibility with the actual LEGO pieces. Most of the other no-name LEGO clones are technically compatible, but the fit will be so loose that it is almost not worth it.

If you want to check them out, here are a few:

* BanBao, Best-Lock, Cobi, K'Nex, Kre-O, Mega Bloks, Oxford, Tyco, Super Blocks, Guangdong Loongon

I would also encourage you to check out alternative building toys that are not compatible with LEGO, there are a lot of construction toys that kids who like LEGOs will enjoy, but may be more abstract, more architectural, etc.

List of LEGO alternatives

# Answer
> 5 votes
Today, early 2019, there are many, many brands out there that sell sets with Lego-compatible pieces. Most of them are Chinese brands, but there's also several brands from other countries.

Here's but some of this long list of brands :

Lepin is a brand specialized in cloning complete Lego sets, from individual pieces & minifigs to instructions and box art. That means this brand is véry controversial and buying it may be illegal in your country. The quality of the bricks is very good, though, although Lepin sets are more likely to have missing bricks or poorly moulded bricks than Lego sets.

All other brands listed sell their own sets with their own unique designs. The quality & price varies significantly from brand to brand. Many of these brands produce real-life military designs (tanks, airplanes) that Lego has a policy of never releasing.

In my experience, Oxford provides the highest quality, and in fact may even provide better quality than Lego in some aspects. However, it's also at a similar price range as Lego and not a good option if cost is a primary criterion for looking at other brands. Kre-O bricks come from Oxford but are marketed by Hasbro and are easier and cheaper to find on Amazon.

XingBao also provides high quality sets, including some modular buildings with piece counts \> 4,000. And while not without flaws, the designs of these modular buildings is on par with those sold by Lego, at a fraction of the cost. Xingbao even has a version of the Lego Ideas system where people vote for uploaded sets they want to see put into mass production. XingBao has the same mother company as Lepin, however, sort of a "legal" branch of the same company. So you may want to avoid it if you have a problem with Lepin's business practices.

For a brand that is almost as high quality as XingBao but which isn't shrouded in the same controversy, you might want to check out Enlighten. Especially their recent sets are pretty high quality. They don't sell any sets as complex as full-size modular buildings, though.

Where can you buy these brands, you might want to know? For non-Chinese brands like Oxford or Cobi, you might want to check out Ebay or Amazon. For Chinese brands, the most popular venue is AliExpress.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Some Lego-compatible sets are available on AliExpress, but it should be noted that some suppliers on that site infringe on Lego intellectual property by directly cloning Lego sets.

Parts from various resellers are just like Lego, and some are superior. Yes, superior. China has come a long way. Lego now has factories there too!

# Answer
> 2 votes
There is also a range of giant lego-like blocks that are made of cartons and plastic. Two are gigi bloks and edo bloks.

# Answer
> -1 votes
Cada bricks are good quality Lego alternative. Please relate to our Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/DOUBLEECaDA Cada website: http://en.doubleeagle.cc/ Actually, there are quite a few reviews of Cada on Youtube.

Cheers

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Tags: compatibility, clone-brands
---


# Question
Title: Does the ordering of contents in LEGO advent calendars vary between specimens?
In general, LEGO advent calendars are boxes where for each day, there is a small model, or sometimes a minifig, hidden behind the window. Some superficial instructions on how to assemble the model are printed on the inside of the window lid.

Now, in general, the exact content of an advent calendar is supposed to be somewhat of a surprise to the one opening the window. While for LEGO advent calendars, all minifigs and models are contained somewhere on the imagery that decorates the outside of the calendar, I wonder whether at least the ordering is a bit of a surprise.

Or, in other words: If I bought the same LEGO advent calendar twice, would there be a chance that the content were ordered differently? (The box art on the 2019 city calendar weakly implies the answer might be *yes*, given that the example on the back side shows some open windows with their content, and said content was due on different days in our own copy.)

Thus: **Are there differently ordered versions of these advent calendars? Are they somehow randomized, or is there just a handful of different sorting patterns? Even if so, are there any windows/days that always have the same content (e.g. day 24)?**

# Answer
> 6 votes
No. The ordering is always the same.

If it wasn't there probably wouldn't be daily reviews of today's gift(s) on sites like Brickset.

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Tags: advent-calendar
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# Question
Title: What was or is the longest running Lego set?
What is the longest running Lego set, retired or still in production?

I remember seeing set 7239 Fire Truck in the Lego catalog for years. That fire truck out lived three fire stations (7240, 7945, 7208)!

I'm having trouble finding an end date for sets, is there any way to know how long a set was released?

For example Brickset lists the fire truck's availability at LEGO.com as Oct 2007 through Dec 2011, but I know the set ran longer then that (I got it in 2005).

So what is/was the longest running Lego set?

# Answer
> 8 votes
I'm going to stretch your definition of "set" and say "32x32 green baseplate". You could get set 745-1 in 1978...

...then 840-1 in 1980, then 813-1 in 1986, then 626-1 in 1996:

And since 2015 there's 10700-1, altough it seems that the shade of green is different than the previous iterations:

Since those sets have exactly the same piece count (one) and each piece is functionally the same, I will argue that the green 32x32 baseplate set has been in production since 1978 until today (2019). That's over 40 years.

If you consider these to be different sets because they have different set numbers, then the record goes to 1996's 626-1, with 19 years.

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Tags: sets, history
---


# Question
Title: Has anyone made their own custom LEGO bricks?
As I've just learned, LEGO bricks are made from ABS plastics.

I wonder if it would be possible to make some simple molds at home, get some ABS pellets, melt them up and make your own custom bricks? Novelty shapes or colours, perhaps?

Has anyone tried this, did it work?

# Answer
People with 3d printers have made their own LEGO bricks. The plastic used is ABS.

Blog post

Interestingly, 3d printers can be constructed out of LEGO parts - you could have it self replicating!

Of course, you would need a very expensive and high quality printer to make good pieces. Cheaper ones can only make hollow bottoms and the banding from manufacture is highly visible.
> 29 votes

# Answer
Big Ben Bricks sells some custom LEGO-compatible elements, mostly train wheels. Since they produce sizes which the LEGO company doesn't, they have some customer, but the production cost is usually quite high for such a quality.

BrickForge does sell custom elements too, and so do BrickArms. Usually, custom element producer will focus on elements the LEGO company is not likely to make, either because they feel the element fills too small a niche, or because they don't want to (arms). Yet there is some demand, so these sites aim to fill the gap.

If you've got ideas, maybe contacting one of those would be interesting, either to learn about their processes, or to suggest the part.
> 22 votes

# Answer
Yes, is it definitly possible. However, as this page states:

> Producing physical prints from our provided 3D models prompts certain fabrication considerations. According to Wikipedia, the precision of Lego pieces is less than 10 microns. As of early 2012, however, standard Makerbot printers have an XY resolution of 100 microns (0.1mm) and a default layer thickness of 360 microns (0.36mm). We thus caution that fabrication of the Free Universal Construction Kit with current (2012-era) solutions for DIY stereolithography, such as the Makerbot, Printrbot or RepRap, may lack the precision required for reliable or satisfactory coupling with standard commercial pieces. A great deal depends on how well-tuned the printer is; thus, your mileage may vary. In any case, we expect this situation will improve gradually, but inexorably, in tandem with improvements to these vibrantly evolving fabrication platforms. The artist’s proof shown here was created in a UV-cured white resin using a commercial-grade Objet (“polyjet”) 3D printer, which has a horizontal resolution of 42 microns, and a layer thickness of 16 microns. Ponoko.com and other private fabrication services offer printing from Objet machines and other high-resolution devices.

Free Art and Technology \[F.A.T.\] Lab and Sy-Lab. “The Free Universal Construction Kit.” Fffff.at, 20 March 2012. http://fffff.at/free-universal-construction-kit.

The article cited deals with a universal construction kit that allows you to connect ten diffent types of construction sets together, and as this is a Lego site, you may not want to visit it.

However, the point being that "standard" 3D printers (such as the Makerbot or RepRap) will probably lack the precision to produce tolerable Lego bricks.
> 10 votes

# Answer
Here is a UV printer that can print on the Lego brick, see this link. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OD2DCCpe2U&t=15s

And I think this A3 UV printer is good choice. http://www.wayprinter.com/uv-flatbed-printer/XP600-Epson-uv-printer-XP600sUV.html
> 1 votes

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Tags: manufacturing, customization
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# Question
Title: Port problem? Mindstorms EV3 brick doesn't detect sensor blocks
I've just bought a second hand Mindstorms EV3 home edition set but the ports aren't detecting any of the sensors just the motors.
When checking the ports on the EV3 brick it says "none". I've updated the firmware and I'm running the Mindstorms home edition software for Mac (Mac mini with OS Capitan).

# Answer
> 5 votes
Welcome Violetta. The EV3 Brick has a total of 8 ports - 4 output ports on one side labeled A-D, used for driving motors, and 4 input ports on the other side of the brick labeled 1-4, used for getting information from sensors.

(Image sourced from this page)

Make sure you have plugged your sensors into the correct port, as plugging them into ports A-D will not allow the Brick to detect them.

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Tags: ev3, mac
---


# Question
Title: Why was LEGO reluctant to use additional colours for regular bricks in former times?
Looking back to what LEGO offered in the 1980s and early 1990s (oh, those memories ...), it looks a lot like LEGO's colour palette had been limited to a small number of colours - unless I'm missing something, and just counting non-transparent colours now, mostly:

* white
* black
* red
* blue
* yellow
* light grey

But wait: A couple of other colours had been around for a long time, but had only been used for quite special elements for many years:

* dark gray (some other castle accessories, such as minifig swords, at least since 1981 ... before the colour started getting slightly more widespread in actual buildings in the shape of BURPs, starting in 1993)
* brown (some castle accessories, such as minifig spears or bows with arrows, at least since 1984 ... until LEGO finally started using some brown for trees instead of approximating them with black around 1993)
* green (granted, this one appeared as plates in castle sets at least since 1984, but was otherwise mostly reserved to plant parts, baseplates, and special decorative elements such as flags ... until around 1992, when the fictional Octan gasoline brand was introduced and green started becoming a "mainstream" colour)

Now, I am aware I have not listed all the parts that ever came in the respective colours; my point is that, at least in my impression, these three colours listed above were mainly used for a rather small number of accessories or other specific elements for many years, as opposed to seeing widespread use as regular plates and bricks, compared to the other aforementioned colours.

**Is there any known reason in terms of business/design decisions/the material used for each of the colours for this?**

# Answer
> 49 votes
The answer I've heard the most (with a source citing the official confirmation) is that green, brown and gray bricks were omitted from the LEGO palette because the company wanted to discourage kids from building tanks, planes, and other realistic military hardware.

# Answer
> 26 votes
Early LEGO colors were inspired by the work of Mondriaan, which mainly consists of white, black, red, blue and yellow. These primary colors were considered to be most appealing to kids.

From the book “Brick by Brick”:

> The new product was patented in 1958 and within a few years bright yellow, red and blue Lego bricks, colours inspired by the paintings of the Dutch Modernist painter Piet Mondrian, were scattered across the floors of millions of homes.

# Answer
> 16 votes
I have a background in precision injection moulding, although not to the extremely tight tolerances of Lego. Here's why a manufacturer would try to reduce the number of colours they used, particularly in the old days.

Most resin (the raw material) nowadays comes pre-coloured, especially for a large customer like Lego. That wasn't the case fifty or sixty years ago: we used to get white resin and colour it with powdered pigment. This operation would have to be repeated for each batch of each colour, a batch being (in the old days) a cement mixer's worth of resin. Between colours you would need to clean the mixer out thoroughly, because a small amount of the wrong pigment could contaminate many pieces. The contamination would be hard to see: try examining 1,000 pieces for a small swirl of the wrong colour!

If the colour of a moulded piece was off we would have to re-grind it, add more pigment / plain resin and re-mould it. We couldn't do that for pieces of different colours, or for badly contaminated pieces. We had the advantage of manufacturing some products in black that would hide most discolourations, so we would reserve contaminated material for those.

Moulding machines used to have a hopper above the machine, and the coloured resin would literally be carried up a ladder and poured inside. To switch between colours we would generally run the hopper until it was almost empty, possibly add some plain or disposable reground material to "purge" it, and then add the new material. A certain amount of pieces would necessarily be contaminated by the old colour, which meant that changing colours for small batches could be quite wasteful. Nowadays we have vacuum feeders instead of large hoppers. We still have the problem of colour contamination, but this has been reduced by better mould design.

Speaking of moulds, older moulds used to convey the plastic down a channel to the moulds for the individual pieces. When the mould emptied the channels, called sprues, would separate or be sepaarated from the puieces and reground. There would invariably be a certain amount of this material left at the end of a job, and it could be a pain keeping track of it for next time.

When you add these costs in time/quality together it's easy to see that (keeping the total number of pieces constant) adding extra colours rapidly increases your overheads. It isn't just the fixed cost of changeover and storage, but the potential for things going wrong. I think this would have given Lego a good reason to reduce the number of colours they used, particularly when the firm was smaller and technology wasn't as advanced.

# Answer
> 15 votes
A practical engineering concern could be a reason to limit the colours used for molding in ABS plastic.

The colourant added to the base plastic can affect the physical properties of the molded part. Depending on how tight the dimensional tolerances are for the finished part a separate mold may be required for each colour.

Perhaps the Lego group process engineers have enough controls in the automated molding process now to tweak the mold setups to compensate for the variations induced by the colourants.

# Answer
> 4 votes
Manufacturing logistics play a part in this decision. If you have to maintain six different dyes or pellet hopper combinations in the injection molding pipeline in your factory, that is a different story in terms of cost than maintaining sixteen or thirty hopper combinations or dye vats. If the pellets are pre-dyed (as I believe was the case), sourcing these will depend on the logistics of and the options made available by the supplier.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Most bricks in sets are picked from large bins of a given colour/shape when making up a set, and used in many different sets. Hence there is a cost advantage to limiting the number of colours and hence the number of different brick.

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Tags: history, colour
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title: Cleaning between the studs of a build

text:
# Question
Title: Cleaning between the studs of a build
I've unpacked a few of my models after moving home some time ago, these models have been in a cardboard boxes for several months and need cleaning:

I've tried compressed air, which only makes some of the dust airborne. I've also tried cotton buds but the process is tedious and they end up looking like this after several stokes.

More importantly, I would like to be able to clean my models without going through the tedious process of taking them apart, washing, drying and building them again.

# Answer
When cleaning dust from scale models, sculptures, figurines or LEGO models I use an artist 'Fan' brush. This is the best method I've found to clean dust rapidly without damaging models.

The fan brush's long hairs combined with the thin spread enables you to dust 'any shapes and surfaces without risk of damage. For example, it would clean a LEGO antenna (1 stud attachment only) without making it fall. You can can really push the brush into the bumps and cracks and the long hairs will bend and reach around the features.
Also, when dusting a big piece, I also set an electric fan a low power to blow air across my work table. This prevents the dust from just going up and settling back down on the model.

A huge advantage, learned after cleaning model boats, is that it is also perfect for dusting ropes (small cables). This worked like a charm on my LEGO Technic crane with all the complex cable system. It is also good on cloth, so it would work for the minifigures capes.
> 20 votes

# Answer
Have you tried one of the smaller portable vacuum cleaners? I've had a few of the battery operated "Keyboard Cleaner" type of thing, which usually come with a brush nozzle and work quite well.

Unlike firing compressed air and scattering dust/crumbs/contaminants everywhere, they are designed to catch most of it.

Faster than doing it by hand with a tooth brush or cotton bud.
> 16 votes

# Answer
I've successfully used a paint brush to clean my dust-covered MOCs.
> 9 votes

# Answer
A soft toothbrush can do a good job on an assembled model. Just make sure the bristles aren't too stiff. They could scratch the elements. It's still tedious, but easier than cotton swabs.
> 7 votes

# Answer
Try the cyberputty gunk that picks up dust. it's basically silly putty but it does what it says it does. I use it for random things like this all the time. Radioshack has it for $1.99 last I saw.
> 6 votes

# Answer
I use a static duster for dusting models. They use soft polyester filaments that won't scratch, and which attract dust using static charge. It may take a few passes to get all the dust if it is thick, but they work well.
> 3 votes

# Answer
Most of the answers here use various combinations of air and brushes to get rid of dust. This works fairly well; I used to dust my model airplanes with the same paintbrushes I used for painting them. I second the tiny portable vacuum cleaner too.

However, my go-to option for dusting models that have been standing around too long is soapy water. I recently partially disassembled the 4483 Lego AT-AT that's been standing on my desk for years. Pop the legs off, the head off, and the panels off the top, etc; it comes apart into, say, 10-15 large modules. Dunk them in soapy water then rinse in warm clear water, and let it dry. It takes a while to dry but when it's done, it's clean. Much cleaner than the dusting approach.

I've washed individual pieces this way too, by putting them in a mesh bag (like the kind for washing delicates in a clothes-washing machine) first, then dunking the whole bag of parts into the water. It takes a while to dry though.
> 2 votes

# Answer
My personal favorite method is using a **submerged** toothbrush. It works much better than any other method I've tried, as the brush dislodges the dust and the water ensures that the dust does not fall back.
> 1 votes

# Answer
I just use my Dyson DC39 vacuum cleaner with either the crevice or dusting tool. As long as you're careful, this works well.
> 0 votes

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Tags: cleaning, tools
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title: Going from LDraw/LeoCAD to Physical Set

text:
# Question
Title: Going from LDraw/LeoCAD to Physical Set
Once I've designed a MOC using either LDraw or LeoCAD where can I go to get the bricks I need to then build that set in the real world?

I've been poking around forums for an hour now trying to get to the answer and I must be missing something.

Any advice would be helpful, thanks.

# Answer
> 5 votes
Welcome to BricksSE! No question is silly (Maybe duplicitous), but never silly.

1. Go to *Bricklink.com*
2. Create an Account.
3. Go to "Want" drop down menu.
4. Click "Wanted List".
5. Look for the blue box that says "+ Created Wanted List".
6. **Important:** Create and give the new list a meaningful name other than "default" or all future uploads will be merged into one list named "default" (*very annoying*).
7. Go back to the "Want" drop down menu and click on "upload". You'll get the screeny below.
8. Find your build's file location. Make sure your file is a compatible upload type.
9. Click, Hold, Drag, and Drop your file onto the upload screen.
10. Upload your pieces to the meaningful Wanted List name you've created.

The site fills in the magic of getting you connected to the people who'd like to sell you your parts.

Note the condition of each part after you upload can be ***new***, ***used*** or ***any***.

If you're buying ***Tiles***, always buy them new. Scratched *Tiles* always look bad.

For any type of brick, always buy these colors new too: White, Yellow, Blue, Light gray. They tend to also make your final build look... worn if bought mixed or used.

# Answer
> 2 votes
In case you have all your sets as well as additional/spare bricks added to Rebrickable you can upload your digital model file and identify just the bricks you are missing. Custom list can be created in the following place: Main page \> My LEGO \> My Custom lists

Once you upload the file you can use "Build this List" feature. And then "Buy parts". This would give you options from Bricklink as well as Brickowl.

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Tags: building, moc, ldraw
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title: How to fix cracked minifig arms?

text:
# Question
Title: How to fix cracked minifig arms?
I have a few minifigs with their arms cracked lengthwise, which is a big problem as the hands constantly fall off at the slightest touch (or even fall off of their own accord). Is there any way to fix this? Sorry for any inconvenience, but I don't know how to put a picture up. Any help is appreciated.

# Answer
> 3 votes
## Arms are cheap

I'd recommend just buying some cheap replacements from a site like BrickLink. You can buy an unpainted torso for example, and some sellers even sell just the arms (some of the cheapest listings are described as cracked though, so avoid those). So long as the arm is not painted (which they are not usually), this should be a relatively cheap solution with no repair work besides swapping the arms.

Plus, considering how small they are I'm not really sure there is a practical way to repair them, and still retain their full function.

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Tags: piece-information, minifigures, repair
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title: How many LEGO bricks exist in total?

text:
# Question
Title: How many LEGO bricks exist in total?
How many LEGO bricks have been produced in total? I'm asking only about real LEGO, not other brand's "blocks."

This article from Gizmodo puts the number at 400 Billion, but that was written in 2008.

The BBC from 2018 says "75 billion bricks are sold annually."

An answer on Quora puts the number at 600 billion sold.

I understand that the number sold, and number produced is likely very different, thus my sources are not particularity useful. So how many LEGO bricks exist?

# Answer
It does not seem as if it would ever be possible to come to a definitive assertion—or even a sufficiently precise approximation—of "how many LEGO bricks exists." For the English Wikipedia article "Lego" in the "Manufacturing" section informs,

> Annual production of Lego bricks averages approximately 36 billion, or about 1140 elements per second.

Although this quotation conflates "bricks" and "elements" thereby ambiguating whether it refers specifically to bricks or generally to any LEGO component, it nevertheless indicates that the number of LEGO bricks is indefatigably increasing. Thus, even if a total number of LEGO bricks in existence *could* be concluded, that number would immediately be inaccurate as a result of additional bricks continuously manufactured. Furthermore, as Eran perceived in the comments, LEGO bricks eventually disintegrate or become unidentifiable as LEGO; therefore, even if there were documentation of exactly how many bricks were produced up to any given time, it would still be infeasible to establish how many LEGO bricks exist because it would be extraordinary difficult to ascertain which individual LEGO bricks are currently in existence.
> 8 votes

# Answer
This is all just speculation based on the Wikipedia entry for LEGO and some of the sources linked within it.

In 2008, TIME reported that the LEGO Group estimated that they had produced about 400 billion LEGO elements.

In 2006, Bloomberg reported that LEGO was producing about 15 billion elements per year. ()

In the Wikipedia entry, it is stated that "Annual production of Lego bricks averages approximately 36 billion," but that statement does not have a citation, so I don't know where it came from or when it was referring to. However, I would guess that it is a more recent estimate than 2008.

If we use the 2006 estimate of 15 billion and assume 2019 for the 36 billion estimate, we can work out an annual production increase of about 1.6 billion. Working from that, we can get a number around 706 billion total elements produced. And it looks like they'll hit 1 trillion elements sometime around 2026.

Again, this involves a lot of speculation and assumption, so don't quote me. ;)
> 2 votes

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Tags: history, lego-group
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# Question
Title: Help identifying window frame with hinge pin holes
Can anyone identify this piece (picture below)?

It looks like the top half of a window frame with some 2 pin holes in it.

The size is 1 x 6 x 4, it has no model number on it but does have LEGO branding on the studs.

# Answer
That would be 821 Garage Door Frame (Old style).

As the name implies, it was for the old garage door in these sets from the 50s and 60s.
> 4 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: What kind of software can I use to design LEGO MOCs?
What kind of software can I use to design LEGO MOCs? I hear the LDD is not so good to use so is there alternative software I can use?

# Answer
> 7 votes
A popular alternative is stud.io, provided by Bricklink.

Another possibility mentioned by Alex in the comments is LDCad.

# Answer
> 6 votes
In the comments you asked,

> ...do you know if it is possible also to work in stud.io with other 3d-files or only with bricks that are pre-integrated? So if i would have designed new bricks could i use them too?...

Looks like *Brinklink* also offers a tweak program to make custom bricks called *PartDesigner*, that's able to export right into *Stud.io*. I've never used it, but it might be promising to you.

# Answer
> 0 votes
The kinds of software used to design *LEGO MOC* doesn't necessarily have to be solely confined to *Computer Aided Design* programs.

We can get really creative and exploit functions of programs never intended to be used for *MOC* bricking.

Enter: *Adobe Photoshop* \- *PS's* main role is a visual graphic editor, but it does something strange if an image is magnified past 400%. *PS* breaks the image down into nice square shaped pixels. Perfect for making *LEGO MOCs*.

I use the *PS* squares created in two main ways:

* 1) ***Top View*** pixel creation - Where the scale is a perfect 1:1.
* 2) ***Side View*** pixel creation - Where two 1x1 plates stacked on top each other, almost equaling a *PS* square.

Note: A 2x2 plate stacked on a 2x2 brick makes a nice a square also, but this will increase the size of our creation.

Well, anyway, the magnifying function is clearly not intended to brick out an outline, but it works well here.

I'm sure there are many other methods within and outside this specific graphic program to aid us in our build. *PS* does has a pixelation filter, and outside the program there are *LEGO* mosaic makers, but this interesting quirk breaks a solid image into pieces, where with minimum time and effort, a more precise stud length can be quickly counted out.

Speaking of counting, it will also help to know your *LEGO Math* here. So, when using ***Side View***, 3 Plates = 1 Brick. Pixels of the same color can be group and merged into money saving bricks.

Here are two examples of **Top View**.

*

Below is an example of one ***Side View*** pixel method I'm *currently* working on.

*

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Tags: software, ldd
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# Question
Title: Help identifying utensil looking round support piece with 2 bars
Here is a picture of the piece (red brick below it is just for showing the size).

It has "© LEGO" and "8-01" written on it.

# Answer
> 7 votes
This piece is called Space binoculars or electrobinoculars and has part number 30304.

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Are these parts from one set, lots of related sets or just a big messy jumble?
I bought a job lot of approx 2kg of Lego at a (UK) car boot sale and I'm struggling to identify the set/s that the pieces relate to. The owner said that it belonged to her late husband and that she thought that they were...

> "...all from the same set".

There are four separated bags, all of which contain fairly similar parts, mostly yellow flat plates and small black pieces with lots of large tracks and propellers. I've snapped the most obviously unusual pieces in each bag.

**Bag 1:**

**Bag 2:**

**Bag 3:**

**Bag 4:**

Any ideas?

# Answer
> 2 votes
They are definitely not from a single set, as the 16x16 yellow plate was only ever sold in Friends sets, that do not contain any Technic track pieces.

Another telltale sign is the transparent orange Brick with Shaft 1x8x1, whose only occurrence is in a few Star Wars podracer and Alpha Team sets from 1999-2001, none of which has any propeller pieces.

The first picture contains a black turbine insert with many blades, this was sold in many unrelated sets across the years.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Sprocket, Ø40,7 in white only comes in 1 set:

42065-1: RC Tracked Racer

Plate 16X16 and Plate 6X6 W. Bow in cool yellow only come together in 1 set:

41035-1: Heartlake Juice Bar

Thanks to Zovits for identifying Chain Wheel, Ø25,8, Dec. as this part only comes in 1 set together with 4528407: Sprocket, Ø40,7 in bright orange:

8996-1: Skopio XV-1

Propeller Ø71.84 in Reddish Brown also only comes in 1 set:

7260-1: Wookiee Catamaran

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Half sized block

text:
# Question
Title: Half sized block
I know a standard block is 9.6mm tall and a plate is 1/3 of that at 3.2mm. I found several blocks that are 4.8mm tall or 1/2. What are they called? Are they still made and where can I get some?

# Answer
> 1 votes
You seem to be describing *LEGO Modulex* bricks.

Video of the history of *LEGO Modulex* ***HERE***.

And a post on *LEGO* brick sizes ***HERE***.

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Tags: piece-information, size
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# Question
Title: ID this set: Rocket launch installation?
While cleaning out the attic of my deceased cousin I found a plastic bag with parts that supposedly is a single set from late 70 or early 80's.

Actually there where multiple bags, each containing a single set. Some had the instructions leaflet and others I could relatively easily identify. They all date from around 1980. So that is why I presume that the one bag left is also a single set from that period.

Sorry that I don't have pictures. I may add one later.

* A large green ground-plate (about 40x30 nobs, I didn't count them exactly) with white printed markings where the first layer of bricks should go.
* 2 pieces of straight blue railroad track.
* Regular bricks mostly 1x1x4 and 1x1x8 in blue.
* A bunch of white quarter-circle bricks and some (4) black ones + a white nose-cone piece. Would together make a small white rocket with a black band or black markings. A bit Saturn-V like.

It looks as if this would make a rocket + a base or launch-tower. The tracks are maybe part of a moveable launch-pad? There are no wheels to go with the track though.

Does this ring a bell for someone?

# Answer
> 10 votes
Minus the reference to the large green baseplate, could it be pieces from *Set #358 - Rocket Base?*

**Edit**: A few original, used red baseplates can be easily had under $10 bucks through a few Canadian sellers ***HERE***.

# Answer
> 3 votes
The closest I can find is 358 Rocket Base, but it contains more pieces than you describe and the baseplate is red not green.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: What Lego set has the most unique colours?
What Lego set, past or current has had the most unique colours (colors) regardless of piece count?

I've found bricklink's color list but I have not found any way to filter sets biased on most colors.

# Answer
I have no idea where to find any sources for an answer, but I can offer a guess.

When it came out 70620 Ninjago City was the set with the most different elements ever made (That wasn't hard to verify, if I can remember how, I'll check later if it still is, and if any other contenders offer more colours), a guess is that they will come in many different colours. And they do, if I counted correctly there's 51 different colours in that set, quite a bit more than the 20 @Joubarc mentioned in a comment.
> 3 votes

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Tags: sets, history, colour
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title: Help identifying utensil spear

text:
# Question
Title: Help identifying utensil spear
I'm not sure this piece is actually Lego seeing as there is no branding on it.

Note that it looks like some type of spear or arrow.

See picture below (not the minifig) with one in flat silver and the other in chrome silver.

# Answer
This is an official LEGO piece. It is called 57467a Minifigure, Weapon Harpoon, 4 Grooves in Shaft and has been produced for almost 20 years, appearing in 37 sets.

Chrome Silver is the common color, Flat Silver (the one on the left in the picture) is the rarer color, only appearing in 1 set - 70800 Getaway Glider from The LEGO Movie \- but this piece is still cheap on BrickLink, so no real value increase despite its rarity.
> 7 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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title: Restoring valuable minifigures

text:
# Question
Title: Restoring valuable minifigures
I recently purchased a lot of LEGO minifigures. Included in the lot was a first issue green goblin. The figure is in great condition aside from having a permanent marker line on the torso. Is there a way that I can remove the marker without damaging the print on the figure? My son and I collect together and have been looking for the green goblin fig to go with our collection.

# Answer
I have had pretty good luck in the past using isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip.
> 1 votes

# Answer
First off be *very careful* of the printing on the minifigure, the plastic is quite durable but the printing can wipe off rather easily. I list a few different methods to remove permanent marker all have their varying degrees of risk. They are listed in the order I'd try them in.

* Dry erase marker?! Just cover over the permanent marker with a dry erase marker then wipe it off. yes it works.
* Aerosol hairspray, body spray, Rubbing alcohol (Isopropyl alcohol), etc. Like JohnnyB suggested alcohol is a good cleaner for permanent marker, especially on plastic. Just be careful of the printing any alcohol biased cleaner can and will remove the printing.
* Nail polish remover. Be *very* careful with this one, nail polish remover's active ingredient is acetone. Acetone with enough time will dissolve ABS (and rubber tires very quickly) but long before that happens it will remove the printing :( I'd only try acetone as a last resort.
* Toothpaste I'd recommend skipping this social media craze, it may work (on lego) but there are better ways. On the plus side I doubt the toothpaste it will hurt the minifig, however all the scrubbing necessary to remove the marker that is another story...
> 4 votes

# Answer
Try using window cleaner spray, like this:

Such products are designed to remove nasty stains and their alcohol content should be able to loosen the permanent marker ink, since it is alcohol-based as well. To protect the underlaying print, do not use the spray head, but apply the fluid to the affected area(s) with a precision tool, like a toothpick or the corner of a sponge or tissue.

Other apolar solvents, like oils could be tried too.

Another option would be the use of a so-called "magic eraser sponge":

These work by being abrasive, so effectively scrubbing away the top layer of anything, so be careful to only touch the parts covered by the permanent marker. Optionally combine this with alcohol-based cleaning agents.

On the same page, a pencil eraser might work, especially if the surface has a sheen which the ink could not penetrate.

The gentlest possible method I have found an endorsement for is the use of water and soap, but there are others who haven't had problems using nail polish remover either. I'm a bit sceptical here, as acetone is known to solve ABS, but if used with precision, care and moderation, the collateral damage could be contained.
> 1 votes

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Tags: minifigures, cleaning
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# Question
Title: Help find Lego number for large Technic F1 Ferrari
Help! I'm trying to find the Lego number, and missing parts for the rear wing etc.

# Answer
> 4 votes
This is set 8386 Ferrari F1 Racer 1:10.

It's hard to tell from your photo exactly what is missing. Obviously the rear spoiler is missing, but there may be several other smaller elements missing.

Brickset and LEGO.com both have the full instructions, so the best way to determine what is missing is probably to walk through those. Here they are:

https://www.lego.com/biassets/bi/4280172.pdf

You can find the complete parts list for this set on Bricklink if you'd like to order any replacement parts.

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification
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title: How To Make a Small Security Camera?

text:
# Question
Title: How To Make a Small Security Camera?
I’m looking to make a wall mounted security camera in LDD to mimic this one: https://icdn5.digitaltrends.com/image/digitaltrends/swann-4k-9f-768x479-c.jpg

Any clever ideas? It needs to be angled down like the one in the picture. White pieces with a black lens. As small as possible, ideally 1x1 Camera body.

Here's what I came up with but it needs a tilt down piece.

# Answer
> 25 votes
***Added a Ver.2.Oh*** *belowww*...

***Here's*** the *LDD* file if you want it.

***Here's*** the file for *2nd helpings*. Eat up!

# Answer
> 23 votes
I've come up with five different ways to make a micro security camera that look like your reference image.

I'll run through the different methods in the image above from left to right 1 through 5.

## Far left camera 1

Tile, Round 1 x 1 in black (the lens), Brick, Round 1 x 1 Open Stud in white (camera body), Plate, Modified 1 x 1 Rounded with Handle in white (the mount), all held by Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Clip Horizontal (or part 6019).

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## Camera 2

Plate, Round 1 x 1 in black, Brick, Round 1 x 1 Open Stud in white, on Bar 1L with Towball, held by Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Small Towball Socket on Side
This is the only design here that always rotation on more then one axis, which can be a big plus.

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## Camera 3

Plate, Round 1 x 1 in black, Brick, Round 1 x 1 Open Stud in white, on Bar 1L with Clip Mechanical Claw held by Plate, Modified 1 x 1 Rounded with Handle

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## Camera 4 *(my favorite)*

Tile, Round 1 x 1 with Bar and Pin Holder in black, Bar Holder with Clip in white, held by a Plate, Modified 1 x 1 Rounded with Handle
Just two pieces and looks great.

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## Far right camera 5

Two Plate, Round 1 x 1 pieces (the lens and body length), a Tap 1 x 1 in white for the body and mount. The camera assembly is held by a Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Clip Horizontal (or part 6019).

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Tags: design, ldd, piece-usage
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# Question
Title: Does anybody know the LEGO number for this white ship with 6 wings?
Does anyone know the LEGO set number for this?

# Answer
This is not a LEGO set, it is a clone brand. The indentations on the slopes show this. You will also find that the studs do not bear the LEGO logo.
> 9 votes

# Answer
* Company: *Cra-Z-Art*.
* Clone Brand: *Super Blox*.
* Set Name: *Space Fighters*.
* Year: *2010*.
> 2 votes

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Tags: set-identification, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: What are some LEGO Christmas trees designs I can build?
It's Christmas time, and I'd like to build a Christmas tree to add to my winter scenes. Unfortunately the large LEGO pine tree is a little small, and also doesn't offer much by way of decorating opportunity.

What are some larger (but not too large!) and nicer-looking Christmas tree designs I can build?

# Answer
This is the design I created last year for the Winter Bash 2018 Building Competition.

It's very detailed and has many outward-facing studs to which decorations can be attached.

Here's some instructions for building the tree without decorations (note that many of the pieces are internal and do not have to be green).

(Click the image to view the instructions larger)

NOTE: In step 9, you will need to rotate some of the stems to avoid overlapping in order to attach them all.
> 7 votes

# Answer
Here's a brick-built design I've been using for a few years. It doesn't have many decoration points, but it is fairly small and simple to build.

Here's some instructions for building the tree.

As a final step, you can add a 1x1 cylinder for the tree trunk to the bottom.
> 4 votes

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Tags: building, design
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# Question
Title: Connected flexible 2 x 2 white plates - what set?
I'm going through my old Lego collection and trying to identify the original sets they're from. The bulk of the Lego is from the 70s and 80s.

I have a piece that is two white 2 x 2 plates joined together by a thin cord. I seem to remember it joined a car to a cart or something like that, but I can't find the part in any of the sites I've looked.

Can anyone help me with this piece (either how to properly describe it when searching catalogues or possible sets it may be from).

# Answer
> 9 votes
That's an old 650 Hinge Coupling Nylon - Two Connected 2 x 2 Plates from the 60s.

It only ever came in 20 sets, but it's typically clear. It's listed as a possible alternate for the following set, but it's possible other sets could have had it as an alternate too.

901-2 2 Large Wheels with Accessories

# Answer
> 1 votes
> Can anyone help me with this piece (either how to properly describe it when searching catalogues...)

When searching *Bricklink.com* the syntax is specific too. It only comes up as: "`2 x 2 plates`"

*2\[space\]x\[space\]2\[space\]plate(s)*

Anything different like typing only the singular word "plate", and you'll get no hits.

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification, piece-information
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