title: Bags in color sets with no instructions

text:
# Question
Title: Bags in color sets with no instructions
Can anyone identify what Lego set these bags are from?

# Answer
Based on the yellow 1x4 technic brick and the 4x6 light bley plate, plus the fact that bags containing similar colours are very common in "classic" sets, this can be identified as part of 11021-1 "90 years of play".
> 5 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Interface A missing PCB

text:
# Question
Title: Interface A missing PCB
I have a Technic Interface A with the cables but lack the printed circuit board (PCB) for PC that I need to use it for automating my models. The card when it was for sale had markings of Lego 9771 and I assume this to be the part number.

Ideally I would like an original card but is there a way of getting a 3rd party card? Or another idea might be if someone does manage to make such an interface please consider building it to run multiple Interface A and/or B modules simultaneously.

I think that I may have parts that run on almost if not all of the powered interfaces that Lego has been kind enough to release. I would be quite grateful indeed if I were able to use them together in my sizeable Lego projects.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Uli posted a link in a comment to https://lgauge.com/technic/LEGOInterfaceA/9750(1093).htm which has a link to http://isodomos.com/Lego-Sets/1093.html , that link is dead but archive.org has a copy http://web.archive.org/web/20081121054400/http://isodomos.com/Lego-Sets/1093.html both sites have the pinout, but the latter site also confirms the logic levels as 5V TTL.

I will repeat the pinout here, in case those sites disappear.

* Pins 1 and 3: 5V
* Other odd numbered pins: Ground
* Even numbered pins 6-16: Outputs 0-5
* Pins 18 and 20: Inputs 6 and 7

Unlike the interface B which is a somewhat-intelligent device that communicates over RS-232 the interface A seems to just use straight digital IO lines. For bi-directional control of motors the outputs can be used in pairs.

The pinout seems to be an exact match for the user port on a BBC micro. I suspect this is not a coincidence.

It would not be difficult to hook this up to something more modern, a 5V Arduino could probably hook up directly. For a Raspberry Pi you would want something to shift the levels, I'd probably use HCT logic running off 5V for the signals from the Pi to the interface A (this may not be strictly needed) and LVC logic running off 3.3V for the signals from the interface A to the Pi.

# Answer
> 0 votes
@Mark I can help you. My website www.brickhacks.com is all about Interface A. It has schematics for all of the hardware, etc.

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Tags: technic, powered-up, vintage, education
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# Question
Title: Need help identifying this set - craft with 2 propellers
old set.

thank you in advance Pls let me know if you need additional information.

# Answer
Based solely on 2x2 brick with 45° slope in olive green (which is a rare part appearing only in 10 sets), this can be identified as part of set 70006-1 "Cragger's Command Ship":

(BTW I wouldn't call a 2013 set "old", as I own sets dated late 1970s)
> 4 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Change Mario Yoshi pose

text:
# Question
Title: Change Mario Yoshi pose
I'm returning to Lego as an adult and struggling with what I thought would be a small project.

Please tell me if this is off topic but as it has a hard answer of no or this is how I though it would be ok.

What I'm trying to do is change the pose of the Lego Mario Yoshi but the way it is built I cant see any way of moving anything.

The goal is from this:

to this:

Can anyone tell me how I would go about this or is the original design too limiting to make it a possibility?

# Answer
I finally got around to making an attempt at designing a pose for Yoshi.

I received set 71406 Yoshi's Gift House as part of 2023 Q2 Activity Support, from which I could have a copy of the original Yoshi as a basis for the task.

I tried to remain faithful to the style of the original Lego version, while still capturing the 'reaching forward' and 'open-mouthed' look of the new pose.

I also kept in mind to limit the additional parts required, and try to use commonly available parts if required.

See my result for yourself:

It's a fairly simple assembly, this photo should be easy to follow:

Only ~10 additional parts are required. (I didn't own ALL the desired colours and parts) These are the ideal parts you'll need to recreate it: *(replace Lime with whatever colour your Yoshi is)*

| Qty | Colour | Part |
| --- | --- | --- |
| 2 | Lime | Bracket 1 x 2 - 1 x 2 (shown here in Light Bluish Grey) |
| 1 | Lime | Slope 30 1 x 2 x 2/3 or 2 of Slope 30 1 x 1 x 2/3 (shown) |
| 1 | White | Slope 30 1 x 2 x 2/3 or 2 of Slope 30 1 x 1 x 2/3 (shown) |
| 2 | Lime | Plate 2 x 3 |
| 1 | Red | Plate, Round 1 x 1 with Open Stud |
| 1 | Red | Bar 6.6L with Stop Ring (shown) or Bar 6L with Stop Ring |
| 1 | Black | Brick 1 x 1 with Studs on 4 Sides or perhaps another colour |
| 1 | White | Slope 30 1 x 1 x 2/3 |
> 9 votes

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Tags: building, set-modification, super-mario
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# Question
Title: Should the LEGO Batcave step 264 use 1x1 Technic bricks?
I've been building the Batcave – Shadow Box (76252):

I have gotten to step 264 and it seems odd to me that the single back bricks have a hole in them as they seem to go in sideways in the picture blocking the holes - hence only a single solid brick was really needed?

# Answer
> 20 votes
This is likely correct. Here's the instruction step that you mentioned:

In order to keep costs lower, TLG tries to limit the number of unique elements in a set and in an individual bag within a set.

The part you mentioned could have been a 1x1 system brick, but using a Technic brick here also works fine. Bag 9, the bag used for this step, already includes 1x1 Technic bricks as they are needed for subsequent steps, such as 265:

None of the other steps related to bag 9 use a 1x1 System brick. It is likely that the 1x1 Technic brick was used in step 264 in order to avoid having to include another element in this bag.

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Tags: piece-information, sets, instructions
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title: Identify set for trans-orange assembly

text:
# Question
Title: Identify set for trans-orange assembly
I am sorting through my son’s old Lego sets and don’t know which this belongs to. The orange polygon pieces are similar to some Nexo Knights sets.

# Answer
This is the tail end section of 70674-1 Fire-Fang.

Found by searching for sets containing "Plate 2X4 cross-coupling".
> 5 votes

# Answer
~~There are only 10 sets containing that piece in trans-orange, and none of them resemble your assembly. This must be the result of some free play using parts from several sets.~~
> 1 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: In what set does this purplish star-stickered part belong?
Hello I need to identify this piece. In which set is it related too.

# Answer
> 4 votes
It seems like it's a medium lavender 2x4 tile from 41055 - Cinderella's Romantic Castle, based on this sticker sheet found on Rebrickable:

It is used to represent a bed/sofa there:

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification
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# Question
Title: Identify this set: loose bag with rounded gears
Got this at a Staples/LEGO event and does not have any instructions. When I scanned the QR code it says 6172061 but nothing found on the LEGO website. Anyone knows what this set might be?

# Answer
> 3 votes
This bag contains bricks from Bricks and Functions (11019) set. You are not supposed to build particular model(s) with elements included within this set. You can find some inspiration instructions.

# Answer
> 0 votes
The same bag has been asked about earlier: https://bricks.stackexchange.com/a/18162/20578

You can find more details about the intention of it in the answer.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Identify pieces from parts list from a video
I have a screenshot of instructions from a Youtube video that include a parts list, but unfortunately no part numbers/names.

My own experience with LEGO is limited, but I was looking for a way to identify these parts to be able to buy them and make it into a gift for a LEGO and AoE2 enthusiast.

Do you have any suggestion on a good way to reliably identify these parts?

**EDIT** I have changed the picture and added numbers to the parts for easier reference. I think I am already able to identify most of them through https://brickognize.com, bricklink.com and LEGO's pick-a-brick, but here are the parts I am unsure about:

* 2,6,13 all have a slightly lighter shade than the dark brown parts (which I have put as Reddish Brown) I would have guessed the lighter shade might be Dark Red, but would welcome some input
* 24, 30, 34 I am unsure which color this is supposed to be, maybe Dark Orange?
* 3, I am also unsure about the color - bright yellow maybe?
* 15 I am unsure. The closest I can think of was Brick, Round 1 x 1 Solid Stud, but it looks a bit like the sides are not smooth, so I am unsure
* 26 I couldn't find
* 31, this seems to be Body Microfigure Complete but I couldn't find it on pick-a-brick
* 35, I think it is Fence 1 x 4 x 1 Lattice but would welcome confirmation
* 11, 13, 20, 40 I could identify, but didn't find it on pick-a-brick to order - does that mean I misidentified or that it is not produced anymore?

# Answer
I found some answers on Bricklink, Rebrickable and other sources:

| # | Amount | Name | Part # | Color |
| --- | --- | --- | --- | --- |
| 1. | 13 | Tile 1 x 1 with Groove | 3070, 30039, 35403, 39727, 53836 | Reddish Brown |
| 2. | 4 | Tile 1 x 1 with Groove | 3070, 30039, 35403, 39727, 53836 | Dark Red |
| 3. | 1 | Tile, Round 1 x 1 | 98138, 35380, 35381, 39797 | Pearl Gold |
| 4. | 1 | Plate 1 x 1 | 3024, 28554, 30008, 63326 | Reddish Brown |
| 5. | 106 | Slope 30 1 x 1 x 2/3 | 54200, 18862, 33847, 35338, 50746, 63290 | Reddish Brown |
| 6. | 56 | Slope 30 1 x 1 x 2/3 | 54200, 18862, 33847, 35338, 50746, 63290 | Dark Red |
| 7. | 9 | Tile, Modified 1 x 2 Grille with Bottom Groove / Lip | 15561, 30244, 35248, 51815, 71957, 72582, 78812 | Reddish Brown |
| 8. | 6 | Plate 1 x 2 | 3023, 6225, 28653 | Reddish Brown |
| 9. | 2 | Plate 1 x 2 | 3023, 6225, 28653 | Light Bluish Gray |
| 10. | 4 | Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with 1 Stud with Groove and Bottom Stud Holder (Jumper) | 15573, 78823 | Reddish Brown |
| 11. | 15 | Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Tooth Horizontal | 49668, 35162, 49673 | Reddish Brown |
| 12. | 4 | Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with 1 Stud with Groove and Bottom Stud Holder (Jumper) | 15573, 78823 | Light Bluish Gray |
| 13. | 1 | Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Tooth Horizontal | 49668, 35162, 49673 | Dark Red |
| 14. | 20 | Brick 1 x 1 | 3005, 30071, 35382 | Reddish Brown |
| 15. | 1 | Brick, Round 1 x 1 Open Stud | 3062b, 18860, 30068, 35390 | Reddish Brown |
| 16. | 24 | Brick 1 x 1 | 3005, 30071, 35382 | Light Bluish Gray |
| 17. | 18 | Brick, Modified 1 x 1 with Stud on Side | 87087 | Dark Bluish Gray |
| 18. | 1 | Plate, Modified 2 x 2 with Groove and 1 Stud in Center (Jumper) | 87580 | Reddish Brown |
| 19. | 2 | Slope 45 2 x 1 | 3040 | Light Bluish Gray |
| 20. | 2 | Minifigure, Weapon Knife | 44658a | Dark Bluish Gray |
| 21. | 6 | Brick 1 x 2 | 3004 | Light Bluish Gray |
| 22. | 681 | Brick, Modified 1 x 2 with Masonry Profile | 98283 | Dark Bluish Gray |
| 23. | 1 | Plate 1 x 4 | 3710 | Light Bluish Gray |
| 24. | 2 | Plate 2 x 3 | 3021 | Dark Orange |
| 25. | 2 | Brick, Modified 1 x 2 with Open O Clip Thick (Vertical Grip) | 42925 | Dark Bluish Gray |
| 26. | 2 | Bar 3L (Bar Arrow) | 87994, 17715, 19385, 37078 | Light Bluish Gray |
| 27. | 12 | Brick 1 x 3 | 3622 | Light Bluish Gray |
| 28. | 20 | Slope 45 2 x 2 | 3039 | Light Bluish Gray |
| 29. | 4 | Slope 45 2 x 2 Double Convex Corner | 3045 | Light Bluish Gray |
| 30. | 2 | Slope, Inverted 45 2 x 2 Double Convex | 3676 | Dark Orange |
| 31. | 2 | Body Microfigure Complete | 85863 | White |
| 32. | 7 | Plate 2 x 4 | 3020 | Reddish Brown |
| 33. | 6 | Plate 2 x 4 | 3020 | Bright Blue |
| 34. | 4 | Plate 2 x 4 | 3020 | Dark Orange |
| 35. | 6 | Fence 1 x 4 x 1 Lattice | 3633 | Reddish Brown |
| 36. | 6 | Window 1 x 2 x 2 Flat Front | 60592 | Reddish Brown |
| 37. | 1 | Brick 1 x 2 x 2 | 3245c | Light Bluish Gray |
| 38. | 3 | Plate 1 x 6 | 3666 | Light Bluish Gray |
| 39. | 2 | Plate 2 x 6 | 3795 | Reddish Brown |
| 40. | 2 | Minifigure, Shield Ovoid | 2586 | Bright Blue |
| 41. | 2 | Plate 1 x 8 | 3460 | Bright Blue |
| 42. | 12 | Plate 1 x 8 | 3460 | Reddish brown |
| 43. | 6 | Plate 1 x 8 | 3460 | Light Bluish Gray |
| 44. | 6 | Slope, Inverted 75 2 x 1 x 3 | 2449 | Reddish Brown |
| 45. | 2 | Panel 1 x 2 x 3 - Hollow Studs | 2362b, 30009b | Reddish Brown |
| 46. | 4 | Plate 2 x 8 | 3034 | Light Bluish Gray |
| 47. | 2 | Brick 1 x 8 | 3008 | Light Bluish Gray |
| 48. | 2 | Plate 1 x 10 | 4477 | Light Bluish Gray |
| 49. | 2 | Arch 1 x 6 x 2 - Medium Thick Top without Reinforced Underside | 15254 | Dark Bluish Gray |

---

**Notes**:

1. Picture shows incorrect amount. You need 68 pieces of Brick, Modified 1 x 2 with Masonry Profile to actually build that model. Checking individual steps the number of bricks adds up to 68.
> 5 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Is the NASA Space-Shuttle the object with most reproductions in LEGO sets?
Even within the last twenty years, there have been a large number of LEGO reproductions of NASA's Space Shuttle, e.g.

There have also been Space-Shuttles made in Duplo (10944 Space Shuttle Mission), sets with shuttle-like craft which may or may not be the shuttle (60080 Spaceport), and actual space-shuttles included in other sets (e.g. 21312 Women of NASA).

This got me to thinking that perhaps the Space Shuttle may be the object(s) which have been most reproduced in LEGO, but then thinking more logically it is more likely to be something more generic like a police-car (where I can see at least five sets that consist of *just a police-car* on the first page when searching for instructions on the LEGO website).

**Does anyone know what object (or building, character, etc.) has been reproduced in as many independent LEGO sets as possible?**

# Answer
Without a more precise definition of what you are looking for it is very difficult to say what has been done most. For instance, a "building" is something you can find in several thousand sets of Lego.

So, if we narrow it down and say we only consider something which can be identified as the same, the highest reproductions I can find is the Millennium Falcon from Star Wars.

This varies from a small polybag set to *the* Millenium Falcon with over 7500 bricks

According to Brick Land there have been 25 reproductions so far.
> 2 votes

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Tags: history
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# Question
Title: Has anyone had problems fitting the stalactites and stalagmites in the 76252 Lego Batcave?
I have got to stage 403 and, whilst I have had problems fitting the pieces together previously, at this stage I simply cannot get the stalactites or stalagmites to fit into the studs - they seem to have a bulbous end and they simply will not fit. Is glue the answer? Has anyone else had the problem?

# Answer
Step 403 of the instructions for set 76252 - Batcave - Shadow Box constructs two stalactites like follows, so I'll assume that's the set you're talking about :

Given your description of what doesn't work for you, the only thing I can think of is that you're trying to insert the 1x1 round stud with hole (the middle part in the assembly) upside down. Look closely at the image, and make sure it's the right side up, and it should fit just fine.
> 2 votes

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Tags: building, instructions
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# Question
Title: Where can I find the assembly instructions of the chinese Ferrari Daytona gold/black variant?
I bought on Aliexpress a Ferrari Daytona, 1:1 compatible with the original LEGO set, but it's the black/gold variant.

I didn't receive the book, as expected, but I was unaware that the set has no PDF either.

So I'm at the end of pack 3 of 7. The 4th box is where we start to build the front end of the car. I cannot continue to guess which red parts are now black and which are not gold.

Too difficult.

Do you know if a PDF is available somewhere for this variant?

If it doesn't exist, feel free to answer "no", I will upvote anyway.

# Answer
So this is my solution to the chinese clones:

* Step one is to sort the pieces by color
* Step two is to use LEGO's official instructions site to download both high-quality books.
* Step three is to build using the instructions as if red and silver were replaced, so this means red pieces are black and the silver ones are gold.

(I haven't done this myself yet so this is just an idea)

EDIT: so this Chinese clone needs a refund to the Ali seller for the instructions supplied by a cloner (a cloner has more steps in same pages than LEGO was).
> 0 votes

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Tags: technic, clone-brands, instructions
---


# Question
Title: What is the difference between LOCAL memory for programs and LOCAL memory for Direct Commands?
I've learned a bit about Direct Commands in EV3 and understood the work of Local and Global memory. Using the Direct Commands I can access the memory using an offset of the accessing byte/bytes (like if I want to access the byte 4 - I could write smth like `LVX(4)` (if I use already prepared library)). Now I want to work with *.rbf* files and found a cool repo that can decompile it into something readable.
And then to this:
Now I really don't understand what is going on. I had some other programs decompiled and as I understood these thing like `$LOCAL4` the number in it is directing not to a offset of bytes but bits. There were also some locals like `$LOCAL120` and `$LOCAL121`.
I want to understand is there something common between these local things? And is there docs about memory used by *.rbf* files?

# Answer
It looks like the disassembler you used doesn't show the complete picture. Like many programming languages, the `lmsasm` language allows allocating variables with either a global scope or a local scope.

I wrote a disassembler in Python that will create a `.lms` file that can be recompiled with the lmsasm assembler. Using this disassembler should show the actual allocations, although not with the correct data types.

To explain it better, consider this example:

```
DATA32 MyGlobalInt

subcall MySubroutine1
{
  DATA32 MyLocalInt

  // subcall can use both global and its own local variables
  ADD32(MyGlobalInt, 10, MyLocalInt) // MyLocalInt = MyGlobalInt + 10
  ...
}

subcall MySubroutine2
{
  ADD32(MyGlobalInt, 10, MyLocalInt) // ERROR! MyLocalInt is not defined

  // we could define MyLocalInt at the start of this subcall
  // to fix the error, but it would be a new variable, not
  // related to the one with the same name in MySubroutine1
  ...
}

...

```

Global variables are declared at the top level of the file and can be used in any blocks (`subcall`, `vmthread`, etc.) and will have the same value everywhere.

Local variables are declared inside of a block (between curly braces). Those variables can only be accessed in that block and the value does not persist between calls of that block.

---

Direct commands also run as a program. They just have more limited rules compared to a user program.

So, to answer the fundamental question: memory isn't directly shared between programs.

However, there are some opcodes that can be used to access memory in other programs.

From http://ev3.fantastic.computer/doxygen/VM.html:

> **opMEMORY\_WRITE (PRGID, OBJID, OFFSET, SIZE, ARRAY)**
>
> Write VM memory
>
> Dispatch status unchanged
>
> Parameters
>
> * (DATA16) PRGID - Program slot number (must be running) (see prgid)
> * (DATA16) OBJID - Object id (zero means globals)
> * (DATA32) OFFSET - Offset (start from)
> * (DATA32) SIZE - Size (length of array to write)
> * (DATA8) ARRAY - First element of DATA8 array to write
>
> Direct command example
>
> **opMEMORY\_READ (PRGID, OBJID, OFFSET, SIZE, ARRAY)**
>
> Read VM memory
>
> Dispatch status unchanged
>
> Parameters
>
> * (DATA16) PRGID - Program slot number (must be running) (see prgid)
> * (DATA16) OBJID - Object id (zero means globals)
> * (DATA32) OFFSET - Offset (start from)
> * (DATA32) SIZE - Size (length of array to read)
>
> Returns
>
> * (DATA8) ARRAY - First element of DATA8 array to receive data
>
> Direct command example

---

Using these instructions seems dangerous since one program doesn't really know what is running in the other slot, so you may or may not be reading from the memory you intended to and writing to the wrong memory could cause crashes or other unexpected behavior.

Instead, I would recommend using the mailbox opcodes to transfer information between programs if needed.
> 2 votes

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Tags: ev3, programming
---


# Question
Title: Every time Robot is launched (without changing the code) it is not following the exact path
I'm working on FLL mission and every time our team launches the robot (*without changing the program, and we are making sure that it is starting from same location every time*) it is not following the same turns and distance.

Any idea what is going wrong?

# Answer
This is actually a fairly typical problem, with several possible causes.

The motors do not directly drive the axle, there is a gear train hiding inside the plastic casing. That gear train can be deflected without turning the motor.

The software controlling the motor maintains a last known position so that several move blocks can be run in sequence and the over/under at the transition between blocks is taken into account. This is typically a problem when the robot is picked up during an aborted run, and the program is rerun. The robot acts like it remembers the previous run and twitches to the left or right when it is restarted. There is a motor reset block to handle this problem.

Dirt/dust on the wheels can also cause issues, as can wheels not firmly positioned on the hubs. This year we spent a whole session trying to get the robot to go straight and ended up trading wheel/hubs until we found a pair that worked fairly well.

Some wheel/hub combinations slip. We spent a long time thinking some old yellow hub + shiny black wheels would work. What a mistake. The wheels didn't slip at first. After a couple runs that smacked into the wall and they loosened and nothing, not rubber bands, not different hubs, not ...

The big message isn't to find a combination that goes straight. Expect it to wander.
> 2 votes

# Answer
If you are using a wheeled robot, make sure that the wheels aren't disturbed in any way. If they move slightly on the axel or the tyre changes position on the rim, turns well be off and in a long program without calibration points, the problem vill propagate and get worse for each turn.

However, this should not affect distances.
> 0 votes

# Answer
We have this problem all the time too, very frustrating... We have found that the robot is very sensitive to the charging level of the battery. Keep the battery well charged at all time - seems to help...

Best solution is probably to use sensors to keep track of where on the FLL table you are.
> 0 votes

# Answer
In addition to the suggestions already mentioned, we discovered a very unexpected problem causing our inconsistency. Ultimately we found the problem was because the robot was moving a motor though there was no instruction to move the motor in the program at that time. During a turn, the medium motor pushed an arm down on the table, increasing the friction during the turn. Because the arm was already resting on the table, this change in pressure wasn't visible, but the result was significant, as the angle of the turn would often vary by 5-10 degrees. This movement of the arm was noticed only when the program was accidentally run while someone was holding it.

After deleting the program from the robot, changing the program then reloading it, the motor was not moving the arm and the turn was consistent again.
> 0 votes

# Answer
We found that after any accessory motor use (lift, or any motion other than wheels), we needed to unpair and re-pair the wheel motors. For whatever reason, that works! We are using Python so we made a function to do this automatically when we use the wheel motors. (You can do the same in block code with MyBlocks.) We still have issues after using the bot for about an hour... I just have to assume that's battery-related. It seems better after a charge. Maybe it is all in our heads though. We are not using the gyro as it is glitchy and inserts wrong values often enough that we won't use it. (Are all Spike Prime gyros like this? This is our first year with this bot). Maybe we just have to buy a new hub to get a new gyro... but YES, we have seen the motors do strange and unexplainable things at random moments. I guess that's why we get 3 runs in competition... to try to make your code just work! (I do miss the gyro! We had it working really well last year with the EV3.)
> 0 votes

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Tags: ev3, fll
---


# Question
Title: Identify this set: assemblies of black plates and tiles
I have these parts but not what set they are to. Can you help me with what set they are a part of? What set is this?

# Answer
Based on 6171264: TILE 4X4, W/ BOW in black, this is from:

75296: Darth Vader Meditation Chamber
> 4 votes

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Tags: set-identification
---


title: What set do these four bags belong to?

text:
# Question
Title: What set do these four bags belong to?
Found these four sealed bags. Any idea what set they go to?

# Answer
Starting with IvanSanchez's search (sets with at least two of trans-red projectile 8L, two of dark bley 4x6 plate w/ door hinge, two of light bley 3x12 wing/wedge), this is probably the 2019 millenium falcon 75257

If you look correctly bag 7 contains C3PO and in bag 8 is a R2D2 body. When going through the instruction of this set you see C3PO is in bag 7 and R2D2 is in bag 8
> 5 votes

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: Is it possible to connect a motor to a spike hub without connecting the cables?
I know it sounds foolish but can I?

I've tried Robot Inventor, but it just doesn't connect and doesn't work.

# Answer
Definitely not. Without cables, no electric current can flow so the motors would not be powered. Wireless power transmission at such wattage levels is not yet part of LEGO's technology stack and probably won't be for a long time. Wireless control would be possible though, but that would still necessitate some kind of power supply at the motors (batteries, mains converter, or such).
> 0 votes

---
Tags: spike-prime
---


# Question
Title: How to import a .ev3 project file into Mindstorms software
My son just built this Rubik's Cube solver and I wanted to help him with the software aspect of it. Despite being a pretty big computer geek, I'm stumped!

The software instructions say to download the .zip, unpack it, and then open the project. Instructions make reference to 1.4.0 ("as of 1.4.0...") and also recommend updating to the latest version, so presumably the instructions were written when 1.4.x or higher was the current version.

I have 1.5.0 installed.

The instructions show this in the File menu:

I only have a File \> Open open, and it only allows selecting two types of files, .lmsp and .lleu. Navigating to the extracted .zip folder indeed shows it as an empty directory despite the .ev3 file being in there.

This seems stupidly stupid, though I struck out googling my way out of this. I was doubting I even had the right mindstorm software installed, so I went down a rabbit hole, finding this MS page which seems exactly right, but ultimately links to a nothing page. More searching led me to think this is the current software to use for ev3 based kits, but upon install, I find it also only allows .lmsp and .lleu files.

Could someone kindly assist in pointing me in the right direction? Is it just that this project my son found is so old I have to track down an archived historical version of the software?

# Answer
I'd already written this and by guessing did indeed confirm the issue is just that `.ev3` files must be for an old version of Mindstorms software. I figured I might as well post the answer to help any others running into this and confused like I was.

I ultimately installed v1.4.5, which is what downloads from the section titled "Retired LEGO® MINDSTORMS® EV3 Home Edition software for PC and Mac" on this page, which also looks to be the correct page for downloading the current (but "modern") version of Mindstorms software for EV3 sets.
> 3 votes

---
Tags: ev3, software
---


title: Help Identify this Lego Item/Set

text:
# Question
Title: Help Identify this Lego Item/Set
The photo is from December 30,1991. Colors are red, yellow, black, green and white. It was a Christmas gift for our 10 year old.

# Answer
That would be: 6956: Stellar Recon Voyager
> 8 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Which LEGO set is this from?

text:
# Question
Title: Which LEGO set is this from?
I recently bought a second hand LEGO set which contained 1 random sealed bag from another set. Its bag #3, the QR code on it gives number 6171968. Can anyone identify the set from the attached photo? Many thanks!

# Answer
Based on

* White Plate, Modified 2 x 3 with Hole and
* Tan Brick, Round Corner 3 x 3 x 2 Dome Top

this would be from 41349: Drifting Diner
> 5 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Recognize these white and gray ships?

text:
# Question
Title: Recognize these white and gray ships?
I want to get missing pieces but don't know Lego set number.

# Answer
The top ship looked like a Star Wars X-wing, and after a bit of searching it can be identified as set 75218:

Notably, the stickers in its sticker sheet match your photograph:

---

Based on trans-blue 2x2 radar dish alone, the smaller ship can be identified as set 8085 "Freeco Speeder":
> 6 votes

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Tags: set-identification, star-wars
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# Question
Title: Bag Identification: Bag 5 Possible Alien kit
We have an unidentified bag #5. It matches the color palette from Space Mission 11022 bag 5: Black, Magenta, Grey, Purple, Neon Yellow.

Distinct pieces include 4 silver grey ray guns, 4 silver grey chalets, 5 purple bionicles.

# Answer
Going out on a limb here, but can it be that your bag is indeed THE #5 bag from Space Mission 11022? It ticks off all boxes:
> 1 votes

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Tags: model-identification
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# Question
Title: Trouble connecting NXT 2.0 block to Mindstorms Home EV3 software on Mac
My son has finally shown an interest in Mindstorms and we are trying to use an NXT block with my 2015 Macbook Pro (latest OS) running the EV3 Mindstorms home edition software.

I have read in many posts and Youtube videos that it is possible to program in the EV3 software and upload to the NXT 2.0 brick - with a few caveats for updated sensors not being included and etc.

However my problem is I just cant see to connect the NXT by either Bluetooth or USB using the 'connect' icon at the top left of the program window. The NXT is connected Bluetooth as shows in the connected devices list. The Wizard goes through the steps to connect but just wont find it under Bluetooth or USB and just sits there.

When I try and connect in reverse from the NXT block itself to my Mac - it can then see Mac but when I click on it - it says 'failed!' on the NXT LCD.

The NXT version is showing as 1.31

The software I downloaded is 'Mindstorms home' 1.5.0

Any ideas?

# Answer
> 3 votes
The "new" Scratch-based LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 software products don't support NXT. This includes "MINDSTORMS Home" and "EV3 Classroom".

The "old" LabView-based EV3 software does support NXT. However, it is 32-bit software and won't run on modern macOS because they require 64-bit software.

If you have access to a Windows computer or can run a Windows VM on your Mac, you can use the "old" EV3 software or even the original NXT software. Both are still available for download on the LEGO Education Retired Products page.

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Tags: ev3, nxt, bluetooth, mac
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# Question
Title: Which LEGO set is a gray vehicle frame from?
I bought a bag of LEGO in 2020, there is a frame which I think belongs to a vehicle. I have tried to search for the gray bricks with holes of 14x1 , but I could not identify the set. I might make a mistake with the color. Can anyone can identify the set from the photo? Any help is greatly appreciated.

# Answer
This appears to be set 75086 Battle Droid Troop Carrier.
> 4 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: How can I remove a Lego 4x4 plate from a non-Lego baseplate?
I have tried using a brick separator, prying with fingers, bending the plate and stacking bricks on it.

# Answer
> 1 votes
Have you tried combining the already tried approaches? For example, adding some 2x4 bricks on the plate to act as a lever (in the direction of the longer side of the 2x4s), then bend the plate and the baseplate in different directions and slip the edge of a brick separator in the (hopefully) revealed space between the plate and baseplate.

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Tags: disassembly
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# Question
Title: Part Identification - What are these bricks?
Any idea of what these are? Came in a lot with vintage LEGO, Nintendo Blocks (N&B) and a few other vintage items that tell me this is probably from 60's era.

# Answer
A picture from Identify (very old) bricks with 2 studs provided me with the answer: It's "American Bricks", the plastic ones, manufactured by "Elgo Plastics, Inc". They date around 1950s.
> 3 votes

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Tags: clone-brands, vintage
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# Question
Title: How to find this LEGO part name? For connection of Technic bricks and steering liftarms
I have checked Bricklink for Lego Technic but still can't find it's name.

# Answer
> 5 votes
This is part# 32069 or 64920: Technic, Steering Arm with Pins.

Found by looking at the (relatively short) list of parts in Bricklink's inventory under the Technic, Steering category.

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Tags: part-identification, technic
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# Question
Title: Hinge parts between instruction steps in Studio 2
LEGO instructions sometimes hinge out bricks between two steps, as shown in this example taken from an instruction randomly:

Step 25:

Step 26:

Is it possible to do something similar in Studio 2?

# Answer
> 0 votes
I don't think so. The only workaround I can imagine is creating the building instructions on BL Studio until the step with the hinge. Then export as PDF. Do the hinge(s) and go ahead with the instructions. At last merge the PDF files.

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Tags: bricklink-studio
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title: Which minifig is this?

text:
# Question
Title: Which minifig is this?
I have this minifig in a set I bought. But I cannot identify it.

Does anyone know which one this is?

# Answer
A few image searches can identify the components of the minifig.

Helmet is part x164, AKA "star wars rebel helmet" in plain light bley. It's Luke Skywalker's alternate headpiece in two millenium falcons (set 7965, set 75192).

As pointed out by fellow user Sander De Dycker, the head is part 3626cpb0817. It appears in more than 100 Star Wars sets, most of the time as part of an imperial stormtrooper.

Torso is part 973pb1944c01, AKA "Ultron Prime torso", which appears only in set 76031.

Legs are part 970c00pb0316 AKA "Ezra Bridger's legs" (a character from "Star Wars: Rebels"). It appears in three star wars sets.
> 16 votes

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Tags: minifigure-identification
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title: Bricks with an axle hole

text:
# Question
Title: Bricks with an axle hole
I'm looking for bricks/elements with an axle hole in it "sideways". I.e. so the axle hole direction is perpendicular to the stud direction. The 1x1 and 1x2 technic bricks are obvious, but besides that, I can find only one other brick which seems to me pretty rare/exotic. I thought there were more.

# Answer
I'd like to nominate the following pieces:

They all have axle holes that are perpendicular to some of their studs.
> 5 votes

# Answer

> 5 votes

# Answer
Since a few people have expressed they wouldn't mind an additional answer, here are some more parts to add to the list, without expectation that they're going to be particularly useful to the OP.

Some rare/exotic parts :

Plate, Modified 2 x 2 with Pin Hole on Side and Axle Hole on Bottom :

Projectile Launcher, 2 x 4 with 5 Studs, Axle Hole and Pin Lever :

Technic, Brick Modified 2 x 2 with Axle Hole, Rotation Joint Ball Half Vertical, and Fist :

And finally also a variation of a part from @IvanSanchez' answer (simply added for completeness) :

Technic, Brick 2 x 4 x 1 1/3 with Axle Holes and 2 x 2 Cutout :
> 4 votes

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Tags: piece-information
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title: Lego Prototype or Megablok?

text:
# Question
Title: Lego Prototype or Megablok?
I came across this brick while sorting some Lego I purchased. It's similar to an Electric, Light Bulb Cover (colored globe), but with three major differences. It is a bit wider, the lower lip is a bit higher, and rather than being mostly hollow (to receive a bulb) it is designed to receive a bar. I was unable to find the part when searching Bricklink's trans-red part list.

The inside has what appear to be a part number of 10780 and a mold identifier of 1-8. Given there is no Lego stamp I'm guessing it is a knockoff, but I'd like other opinions as I'm unsure whether prototype bricks are all marked. Given the source of the parts there is a small chance it is a prototype.

# Answer
> 5 votes
I can no longer access the Bricks.SE account I used to submit the original question. But this piece is a Kreo element from the "Space Dive" set.

# Answer
> 2 votes
The finish of the piece and the numbering scheme reminds me of Megabloks pieces, but it is far from a 100% sure, definitive answer. After half an hour of searching on Google and on the Megabloks website, I have seen no such product that would contain this piece, but based on its apparent age, this information is still not decisive.

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information
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# Question
Title: Found 2 random bags in my son's set any idea what they are?
Help finding what these pieces are would be appreciated. Colors are brown, tan, gray and black there are wheels and eyes if any of this info helps

# Answer
> 5 votes
Based on 6 parts that I identified:

* 4x4 plate (3031) in Tan
* 2 2x2 round plates (4032) in DBG
* 2x8 plate (3034) in White
* Slope 3x2 (3298) in Reddish Brown
* 1x6 brick (3009) in Tan
* 4 rims (8mm d. x 6mm w/ slot) (34337) in White

All these parts are in Creative Ocean Fun (11018) set

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Getting started creating LEGO kinetic sculptures
I’m brand new here and fairly new to LEGO. I’m an adult artist who wants to make LEGO-based kinetic sculptures. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

My experience is very limited — as a child raised in the “dark ages,” I was forbidden from owning or playing with LEGO because I was female (though I used to beg my parents for them, LOL). So I’ve only built a few sets recently, mostly architectural and for display. I’ve been watching videos, and reading a few LEGO idea books, but not finding a lot of info on Technic, though I did build a Mindstorms robotics set back in the 2000’s. And I’m not real interested in building cars, though I suppose I do need Technics pieces. Now I’m considering getting some of the new Technics space sets for 2024, though.

Thoughts on how I should proceed to making my first kinetic sculpture?

(I hope I asked this question the right way. It’s my first one.)

# Answer
> 2 votes
If you are interested in kinetic sculptures, as you have already figured out, you would need Technic elements, mostly. While it is possible to use non-Technic elements to build moving contraptions, Technic system is designed for dynamic models and for increased model rigidity.

General advice on learning new techniques is just either building sets you are interested in or other people's MOCs (My Own Creations). For later I suggest checking Rebrickable \- it is also a great website for inspiration. While you can get general understanding of Technic system by reading some literature you need to know your elements, their physical properties, geometry, how they interact and what kind of result you could get combining several of them together. For this you may want to get yourself familiar with a variety of Technic elements - you can find them listed in Bricklink catalog under "Technic" categories. This is one of the major places where you can acquire individual parts for your own models too.

I know you mentioned you don't like building cars, but these sets usually contain the greatest variety of moving elements you cannot find in more "static" models. Bigger sets are great "part-packs" as they help out with getting yourself a decent amount of parts of different sizes and shapes. While brand new stuff is great, Technic sets are pretty robust so you may look for older models in used condition, to save some money for more LEGO.

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Tags: technic, building, motor, moc
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# Question
Title: Colour sensor is not working on Mindstorms EV3
If I plug the colour sensor into one of my EV3 bricks, on Port View it recognises it. However, on my other brick, it shows the colour sensor symbol but says `unknown`, and shows no reading. The colour sensor also flashes rather than solidly showing a single colour.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Since the color sensor works on one EV3 but not another, it seems logical to conclude that the issue is with the input ports on the second EV3 rather than the color sensor or the cable.

If both EV3s are running the same firmware, then it is more likely to be a hardware issue rather than a software/firmware issue.

The repeated flashing means that the sensor is getting power (pins 3 and 4) but either sensor detection (pin 1) or UART communications (pins 5 and 6) aren't working.

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms, sensor-colour
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# Question
Title: Any other Technic parts with a pinhole slot like part 18940?
I haven't kept up with new parts or sets for at least a decade, but recently when browsing BrickLink I ran into part 18940:

This caught my attention as I'm working on a MOC project right now where a major sticking point has been reducing off-axis slop in sliding motion. This is a very nontrivial problem in Technic builds because liftarms are ever so slightly thinner than a stud gap. The above piece caught my eye because it employs elongated pin-hole slots (see below) to solve this problem which results in a relatively rigid sliding connection that introduces impressively little friction.

However, these pieces have several other drawbacks, with half-stud-wide walls that create awkward spacing, and generally a lot of bulkiness that's difficult to build around just to take advantage of the pin slots. So I would like to know: are there any other pieces I am unaware of that feature a pinhole-slot like this?

# Answer
After scanning the relevant Technic part subcategories (plain Technic, Connector, Gear, Disk, Figure Accessory, Liftarm, Panel, Plate, Steering) on Bricklink, I'd say there is at most one such part besides your example and its various stickered versions:

Technic, Liftarm, Modified Bent Thick 1 x 11.5 Double

But the length of the slot is ... probably less than what you need.
> 1 votes

# Answer
I can only think of Technic Beam Frame 3 x 19 with 2 Center Cross Beams, 3 Openings Thick being similar shape, with 3 elongated openings.
> 0 votes

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Tags: technic, piece-information, mechanical
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# Question
Title: DUPLO train engine base part# 28743 engine is not working
I've went through all of the steps here:

How to disassemble the propulsion wheels of the LEGO/DUPLO train engine base part# 28743 drivetrain?

which was a great learning exercise but unfortunately it seems like the actual motor itself has kicked the bucket. I can hear it activating when I try to push start it and kick it off from Bluetooth. It even works for a half a second.

Any idea where you can get a spare or even people who have been able to go in and fix it?

# Answer
> 2 votes
Bricklink is often the best place to find individual LEGO and Duplo parts. The 28743c01 "Duplo, Train Locomotive Base Push & Go Motor" is currently available 18 times from $17.04 to $53.99. This is perfect if you just want the one part and you don't want to deal with other new parts.

Bricklink also has new-in-the-box sets that include this part such as the 10874-1 Steam Train for $41.08. Getting some extra parts and having it all be new-in-the-box sounds like a better deal to me. This motor was in a total of 3 sets, so you may prefer one of the other two Duplo trains that have this part.

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Tags: shopping, trains, duplo
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title: Where are Knox clone bricks made?

text:
# Question
Title: Where are Knox clone bricks made?
I bought a mix of LEGO pieces, that included some bricks with KNOX on studs - for example a 1×1 with KNOX on its stud, 2×3 & 2×4 with the logo on 1/2 of the studs. They have tubes like those used by LEGO but with hole going right through. Corners a little rounded. Also a brick like plate with tall hollow studs, guess holds better.

Where were they made?

# Answer
> 4 votes
I think this question is about K'Nex bricks

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Tags: clone-brands
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title: Existence of a Technic 1M Half Beam

text:
# Question
Title: Existence of a Technic 1M Half Beam
I am building a fidget spinner out of LEGO and need two parts to help it spin better while not being extremely loose. The only part I can think of that would work would be a Technic 1M Half Beam, but I don't know if it exists. Does that piece exist? If so, where can I buy it from? If not, do you know of any piece that would work just as well?

Here is a picture of my WIP:  You can see in the middle where there are two spaces that I would like to be filled. Something the height of a tile would fit.

# Answer
If I understand your question, you are seeking a spacer that can spin freely on a Technic axle. Essentially, you want a 1/2 bush that has a round hole rather than an axle hole. I don't believe that this piece exists in Technic.

The old Technic Hub/Handle (424) may do what you want, but it is thicker than a 1/2 bush:

Failing that, a minifig ring may work for what you need if you have one handy:

Feel free to post pictures of your WIP and we may be able to provide better suggestions if those don't work.

Edit:

Now that you've posted a photo, I wonder if a 1/2 Bush might just work:

Edit2:

I've now had a chance to play around with some alternate designs, and the one that I like best simply replaces the 2x2 plate and 2x2 tile with this wheel hub (3482):

This is solid and has a nice feel in the hand. It gives you the flexibility to have this rotate as tightly or loosely as you'd like.

Some others like to just use an additional 2x2 round plate:
> 3 votes

# Answer
A little late, but a round tile with hole exists now.

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=15535#T=C
> 5 votes

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Tags: technic, piece-information
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# Question
Title: Do Dreamzzz sets include multiple builds?
I've seen the Dreamzzz sets, and I am curious if they generally include multiple builds per set. For example, here's a shot from the back of Dream Village (40657):

Is this a different build than the main model pictured on the front of the box? Are there separate instructions for this model?

# Answer
> 5 votes
The Dreamzzz sets are not 2-in-1 sets in the same vein as sets such as Exotic Parrot from Creator 3-in-1 that include completely distinct builds using using the parts included in the set:

However, they do tend to include a choose your own adventure element as part of the build. There is commonly a point in the build where the builder gets to decide between different paths that lead to somewhat different final models. Here's what this looks like specifically for Dream Village:

In the case of that set, there are no new parts to add after this point. The choice is between assembling the six modular components created so far into a single large structure, or 3 smaller structures. In essence, each of the smaller building can split into a lower and upper story. If desired, these have connections points on certain edges that can allow them for form a larger structure:

This approach is common in the Dreamzzz line. Many of the larger sets include customization instructions after a barebones model has been completed. Here are the two included options for Stable of Dream Creatures:

Instructions are provided for these 2 styles, but the intent appears to be to demonstrate that there is opportunity for modification, adjustment, creativity and rebuilding with these sets.

Some sets go even farther than this by providing alternatives for significant portions of the build. Fantastical Tree House includes a pair of options:

These options may look similar at first, but they actually require building completely different modules:

The modules used in that set are the same basic size as those from the Dream Village, so there is opportunity to remix between different sets within the theme:

Overall, these sets don't provide the same experience as true multi-build sets, but they do have additional build paths beyond a standard set.

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Tags: sets
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# Question
Title: How do I make apps in Lego Mindstorms EV3 Education?
In the EV3 manual, it says you can create custom apps, in the same page as the IR control and Port View. How do you make a new app? I found a button under tools which says "Download as app", however this is pretty much the same as a usual project - is there a way to make apps special, or are they just the same?

# Answer
> 1 votes
As you guessed, the only real difference between an app and a project is which menu they appear in on the EV3.

Going a bit deeper though (and taking the title question literally), the LEGO "apps" that come pre-installed on the EV3 are not written using the LabView-based software. They are written in the LSMASM programming language, which is a language created specifically for the EV3. The source code for these can be found here.

You can modify these or create your own and compile them with the lmsasm compiler to create your own more advanced apps that can make use of all available EV3 bytecodes that allow you to do things you can't do in the other block programming languages.

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms, programming
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title: Lego China Cabinet

text:
# Question
Title: Lego China Cabinet
I'm building a Lego china cabinet and I'm looking for some nice pieces to put in it. (Fancy dishes, table settings etc). Here's a picture of what I have so far:

Here's some pieces I've identified in my want list so far:

Can you suggest any other nice pieces that would go well in this build?

# Answer
There are some nice tea bowls in the Tranquil Garden Set. You could also appropriate some pieces as figurines, such as the famous frog in a pretty color, or some of the tiny flower combinations. My grandmother used to keep such china figurines in her cabinet.
> 2 votes

# Answer
You could go macabre, and source a pirate skull, or a ninjago villain such as this snake head

http://76.my/Malaysia/lego-ninjago-snake-villain-spitta-minifigure-newl-yesbrick-1307-08-yesbrick@1.jpg
> 0 votes

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Tags: design
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# Question
Title: Control MoveHub (Boost) and Mindstorms Inventor Hub over one app
I'd like to control Lego Boost (Move)Hub and the mindstorms inventor hub with one app. I know that it is probably possible with python, but my son is not yet ready to programm in a fully fledged development environment.

Consequently, I'd like to provide him a scratch like environment where he can work with both hubs at the same time. E.g. creating a joystick with Boost that controls a mindstorms robot.

Could someone point me to the right direction.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Since November 2023, Pybricks now includes a block programming language that works with most Powered Up hubs, including BOOST, and MINDSTORMS Robot Inventor. This also includes Bluetooth communications that is compatible between all hubs.

As of this writing, the blocks are in beta and require a paid subscription.

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Tags: mindstorms, compatibility, boost, robot-inventor
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# Question
Title: If I put the bushing wavy side the wrong way will it affect my build? (Technic Ferrari car)
I am on step 81 and just realized that the small parts have a wavy and straight side and that I have to put them a certain way, I’m not sure if all of them are the correct order will this affect my build? If it shows that the wavy side is on the inside and I put it on the outside?

# Answer
> 10 votes
Assuming you're talking about Technic Bush :

The wavy side is such that it can interface with studs. For example using a Technic, Plate 2 x 4 with 3 Holes :

As long as the bushing isn't sitting against studs (like the example above), the orientation doesn't really matter.

# Answer
> 8 votes
I assume your set is Ferrari Daytona SP3 (42143).

The step 81 you refer to looks like this:

In this particular case and most of the time it doesn't really matter which side you place Technic Bush within the model. Well, maybe for reasons of aesthetics you may want to keep symmetry. Modern sets have a tiny ring around both end to reduce surface friction. As long you don't push bush too much it will allow rotation no matter which side you place it.

"Wavy" feature isn't really used that much these days. But the reason one of the ends is wavy is illustrated in answer by Sander De Dycker.

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Tags: technic, piece-usage
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# Question
Title: Which Hot Wheels vehicles are compatible with LEGO bricks?
I recently came across this Hot Wheels vehicle:

It includes a pair of LEGO-compatible elements along with studs that can be used to customize the vehicle. Are there other Hot Wheels vehicles that are compatible with LEGO?

# Answer
I am aware of 5 Hot Wheels castings that provide LEGO-compatible connections currently:

These are all Mega collaborations created between 2021 and 2023. Kevin Cao was designer for all of these.

There have been other collaborations in the past that were LEGO compatible, such as Mega Bloks Hot Wheels 3-in-1, but these are more like building sets than traditional Hot Wheels cars. There is at least one element of interest in these sets, though. There is a 2x8 vehicle base that is compatible with Hot Wheels track that can be used as the base for custom vehicles:
> 6 votes

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Tags: compatibility, vehicle
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# Question
Title: Detect stalling Motor in the new EV3 Education Classroom
I have a gripper that should automatically stop closing when an object is grabbed. I achieved this in the older EV3 Home Edition by reading the motor current and comparing it to normal values. If it differed, the action would be stopped because the gripper arms caught the object and the motor 'stalled.' I'm keen on achieving this by reading the motor values as I dont have enough touch sensors on hand.

Now, while migrating to the newer Scratch-like version of the EV3 App, I cannot find a block that serves this purpose. I did some research but found nothing(regarding the newer version at least), except for this post: Read power usage and respond when motor is straining which, as far as I understood correctly, does not answer my question.

Is there a block in the newer Mindstorms Classroom version that has similar functionality that I've just overlooked, or are there some mechanisms I can use that have the same result/effect as my current programm in the older version?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks!

# Answer
There are only two motor feedback blocks in EV3 Classroom, one that measures the motor position and one that measured the motor speed.

When a motor is stalling or is overloaded, the measured speed will be less than the requested speed, so you should be able to use that to implement stall detection.
> 3 votes

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms, programming, motor, software
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title: Please help me identify LEGO set

text:
# Question
Title: Please help me identify LEGO set
I bought used set (75301) but the bricks seems not to belong to the set actually. Could you please help me to identify the right set?

I am very grateful for any help :-)

# Answer
Based on the 4x4 radar dish in dark blue from the top-left bag (and a bit of digging), the **top two bags** seem to be consistent with set 75283 Armored Assault Tank:

The 2x2 light grey tile with the insignia, however, should be a sticker instead of a printed tile (according to the parts list for the set):

---

Based on parts Aircraft Fuselage Forward Bottom Curved 6 x 10 with 3 Holes and Technic, Axle Connector Block Round with 2 Pin Holes and 3 Axle Holes, the **two bottom bags** can be identified as part of set 75314 The Bad Batch Attack Shuttle:

Note the fuselage part and the sheer amount of technic connectors in the bottom right bag. Also, note part 98834pb30 Vehicle, Spoiler with Bar Handle with Black Outline Bolts on Sand Blue Background Pattern (Sticker) in the bottom left bag:

Why you have stickered parts in seemingly sealed bags, and why is there a 2x2 tile with separatist insignia in the bottom left bag, I cannot tell.
> 2 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Can I connect technic hub 88012 to remote 88010 directly?
My seven year old has got the Technic hub and remote, and we were expecting them to pair but they won't. Do we have to pair them via the app or can they pair directly?

# Answer
You can connect them directly using Pybricks (a 3rd-party firmware for the Technic hub).

There are some tutorials at: https://pybricks.com/projects/tutorials/wireless/remote-control

Using official LEGO software, you have to use an app as a relay between the two.
> 3 votes

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Tags: technic, powered-up
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# Question
Title: Can anyone identify this red LEGO Technic car set from the late 80's/early 90's?
Kit built a jeep or race car. Roughly from the late 80's/early 90's.

Car had a rear differential, wishbone suspension and rack and pinion steering.

Very similar to http://www.technicopedia.com/8865.html but I don't think they are the same.

Photo in its current state might have modifications from the original plans though.

**Update** here's it rebuilt, couldn't be bothered finding some pieces in the correct colours though...

# Answer
> 5 votes
Searching for sets containing both 1x6 technic bricks and 6x10 plates in red quickly yields set 8865.

Note that this set came with instructions for two different builds; you seem to have the remnants of the alternate build (seen on the bottom of the cover for the instructions booklet).

See also the back of the cardboard box from this eurobricks review:

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Tags: set-identification, technic
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title: Minifigure overview and Combinator

text:
# Question
Title: Minifigure overview and Combinator
Does anyone know website or program which provides an easy overview over LEGO minifigures and allow me to recombine parts from different minifigures and show me kind of preview picture?

# Answer
As noted by J.C. Tchang, some options include leocad's minifig wizard...

... and bricksmith's minifig generator:
> 6 votes

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Tags: minifigures, software
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title: No instructions for sealed Lego bags

text:
# Question
Title: No instructions for sealed Lego bags
I have 4 sealed bags of lego with no instructions. Each bag has a QR code which provides a number (one is 6172062) but nothing comes up online.

Please see photo below of bags. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

KR Mark

# Answer
These bags appear to be from "90 Years of Play" (11021) set released in 2022. You can download instructions directly from LEGO. Identified by Technic, Brick 1 x 4 with Holes in Yellow.
> 1 votes

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Tags: set-identification, instructions
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title: Help ID this set!

text:
# Question
Title: Help ID this set!
My school received a bunch of built Lego donations. However this was in with it and we don’t have instructions or know the set!

6 bags has bag three with blue pink and purple mostly with pieces that remind me of a steering wheel for a ship! Has pieces with eye lashes

Every time I upload a photo it says too large

# Answer
Based on the fact that most (if not all) lego "classic" sets group colours by bags, and my guess that "pieces that remind me of a steering wheel for a ship" might mean round plates with gear teeth, I can make an educated guess for set 11019.

Note that the instructions booklet for the set show that a blue-pink-purple assembly with gear plates and lashy eyes can be made from bag 3:
> 3 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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title: How do the DUPLO Action Bricks work?

text:
# Question
Title: How do the DUPLO Action Bricks work?
Does anybody know what is the technology the DUPLO Action Bricks are based on?

It is not any RFID or NFC because I printed out the white one on normal white paper which turns lights on/off. The symbol on the brick is not important - even a white paper with a printed symbol of rain drop turns the light on/off.

I'm not able to make coloured ones - blue, red, green or yellow. Is the exact color shade so important? If so, then how can one make their own Action Bricks?

# Answer
It is about color and length

The Duplo action brick uses a color sensor, so you want to use the correct colors and it needs the length of the brick for the sensor to determine the color.

paper replacement (youtube)

How to 3d print your own
> 6 votes

# Answer
Color sensor for some amount of time.

I was able to make green Lego tiles work, if the area I covered was 2x8 (in LEGO scale, not DUPLO) bumps. I put a standard Lego scale 4x8 brick under the Duplo track piece, and then built up the exposed area to the height of the center of the Duplo track, and then put 2 green Lego tiles (1x8) on top. This worked really well, but is not child safe.

Trans green (even with solid green underneath) does not register.
I ran two tests to verify this.
I cut the center tie out of a piece of straight Duplo track.
I used a standard Lego scale 4x12 centered under the piece of track.
This alone, did not cause the train to reverse (due to distance from sensor).
I then built up the area by putting a Lego 2x8 on top, taking the Lego bump top to the same height as the center tie would have been.
This was a tile less deep than my previous test.
This worked, the train did reverse.
This also worked with a 2x10, but only the length of 8 was needed to trigger the reverse.
I then tried using a Trans Green duplo track (without the center tie cut). I put the standard Lego scale 4x12 underneath and then built up the area on each side of the tie with Green Lego 2x4 bricks.
This did not work. The center tie, where the color was trans-green (on top of regular green), was an interruption.
None of my solutions are considered child safe. But if this is not a concern, I recommend the solution that does not alter the train track piece, and using Lego scale 1x8 tiles.
If choking is a concern, the solution where I cut out the center tie, and then use large standard Lego scale green bricks, is a bit safer. But even this solution, where the smallest brick is 2x10 (standard Lego scale), does not meet child safety requirements.
I bought some extra green Duplo smart tiles.
> 5 votes

# Answer
As seen in this question there is a sensor below the train. This is most likely to be a color sensor which is how it detects action brick.
> 3 votes

# Answer
The following is deduced from looking at the train and its reactions on the tiles. (I know about electronics)

It seem that if no reflections are detected within approximtely 1 second, then the train switches off. In normal driving, the gray track parts reflect light on/off. But if you lift the train, then it sees no alternating reflections - and stops.

The colored tiles: Looking at the bottom of the DUPLO train, you see a tiny window. Inside this is a 3 color LED diode. It looks as if the diode is cycling through the colors black (actually off) - red, blue, green, cyan, magenta, yellow, white. These are the colors possible if each diode is just switched on or off (I dont know if it uses brightness modulation - but I think not)

In the window is also some light detector, measuring the amount of reflected light. So a red tile will reflect a lot when the red LED is on, but a green tile will reflect very little when the red is on.

This provides 7 possible tiles for the coding.
> 2 votes

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Tags: trains, duplo
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# Question
Title: Electronic inside Spike Ultrasonic Sensor 45604
What is inside the Spike Ultrasonic Sensor 45604?

Pictures of Top&Bottom PCB-Assembly would be helpful.

PoweredUp Cable and Connector use 6-Pin, but why is there used 8-Pin connector inside "black-and-white" Module connection? Are these 2 additional pins in use? What is their function?

# Answer
> 4 votes
The back of this sensor unscrews. The back breaks out the 6-pin cable into an 8-pin connector:

The order of the connections for the pins in that picture from left to right are:

```
 6    5    4    3    x    x    2    1
ID2  ID1  VCC  GND   x    x   M2   M1

```

The primary sensor can be pulled out of the front of the part:

We can then remove the shroud around the sensor to reveal the front side of the PCB:

The largest chip on the front side is an STM8S105K6.

Here's the PCB from the back:

The largest chip on the back is a HEF4049BT hex inverting buffer.

I don't have any insight into why an 8-pin connector is used internally when there are only 6 conductors in the wire, but I did confirm electrically that 6 of the 8 pins are connected to the 6 conductors in the wire.

There are 3rd-party breakout boards that can make the connections from the back of the ultrasonic sensor available for advanced usage:

A header (or individual wires) of appropriate size can also be inserted directly into the back of the sensor without a specialized board, but the pitch is smaller (0.050" or 1.27mm) than what is typically used by hobbyists.

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Tags: mindstorms, electronics, powered-up, disassembly, spike-prime
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title: Instructions for bag 2 with id 135149

text:
# Question
Title: Instructions for bag 2 with id 135149
My kids thinks it’s something form a Star Wars bag but we don’t have instructions anymore. Appreciate your help.

# Answer
Based on the red & blue 1x2 brackets, the 2x2 dark blue curved slopes and the minifig binoculars, this can be identified as set 75317 "The Mandalorian and Child"
> 2 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Calibration Freeze on D11

text:
# Question
Title: Calibration Freeze on D11
I've read through similar posts, but haven't seen exactly the same issue. Built it once, and froze during several calibration attempts. Stripped it all down, rebuilt it very carefully and still have same issue. I've since downloaded Brick Controller 2 and all motors/functionality seems to be there and working correctly. Obviously it's a very clunky interface for controlling the model, so then tried again with Control+, but had the same issue that it will move the blade a little, then just seems to stop trying anything else. Any ideas?

# Answer
> 1 votes
I haven't got enough reputation to add a comment. I had the same issue running the Control+ app from my Android phone.

Installed the app in an iPad, worked first time.

I have also been victim to other posts saying it's my build quality. I tore the whole machine apart and started from scratch, facing the same issue and much hair pulling.

Dear Lego support, PLEASE fix the Android app for the D11!

# Answer
> 0 votes
I have also read similar messages: after calibrating the blade, the sound remains on, but then nothing happens. Who has the solution. Build again? I already did that....

I found a solution: **I installed the Control+ software, not on the phone, but on another device (a tablet in my case).**

It works for me. Good luck.

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Tags: technic, software, repair, control-plus
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title: How do I repair loose arm joints?

text:
# Question
Title: How do I repair loose arm joints?
The arms on my LEGO minifigures are loose. How can I repair these to remain in place when I move the arm to the location I want it to stay in?

# Answer
> 5 votes
I have been experimenting to find the answer to this question, and today I have finally found it. I stumbled across a youtube vid of a child explaining his method, and mine was built off of his. His idea is to take labels, cut them into tiny pieces that are stuck onto the arm at the point where it connects into the torso. This works, all too well. Here's the problem. The arms get incredibly tight, as a result of there being too much pressure. This pressure slowly puts stress on the torso, and within weeks you will notice the modified figures busting open at the seam off the torso. This is generally on the sides, at the base, and it slowly cracks it's way up to the armpit permanently destroying your figures. I found this out the hard way when 10 of my superhero figures were destroyed. Still, I am thankful because this lead to my discovery. Once the figures had been destroyed, I quickly removed the labels from all the others I had done, to stop them from suffering the same fate. What I realized was that once the arms had been doctored, after removing the label (I used small pieces of a cat hair roller, and I'd advise you use this because I'm not sure labels are sticky enough) the arms retained Their clutch. This is a result of the stickiness staying with the arms after the sticky paper/cat roller material had been removed, but it feels like a perfect arm. The clutch is there, and you will not have to worry about the torso cracking. So now that you know, don't make the same mistake I did. This is what I would advise.

1. Remove the loose arm.
2. cut a small square off the cat roller.
3. place it on the connected part of the loose arm.
4. insert it into a torso that you have double of, or don't care about.
5. set it down, and wait an hour.
6. remove the arm, take off the sticky paper.
7. carefully insert arm back into the original torso.

Now you have a perfect arm. It has amazing clutch, and best of all because the clutch comes from a sticky texture instead of immense pressure, your torsos will stay intact.

# Answer
> 4 votes
You can replace the arm with a new one by carefully removing the old arm and snapping in a newer one. Please note that this should not be done too often, as the procedure will damage the connection and could even crack the torso.

LEGO never intended the arms to be replaceable. It is not like snapping and unsnapping bricks, however it can be done a couple of times with no ill side-effects.

In my experience the most times you can replace an arm on a minifigure without making the connection permanently damaged is 3. Maybe 4 times if you are lucky and you find an arm that is very tight.

The best tactic is to take care of minifigures carefully. Constantly moving their joints will make those connection loose. If you are working on things like stop-motion videos where you are frequently adjusting the joints, it is best to use cheap minifigures. You can still play with more valuable minifigures, but it is best not to constantly move their arm around. Arms get loose faster than legs, so while you can put the minifigure in sitting, standing, or running position many times before the joint will get loose, arms are a bit more delicate.

# Answer
> 4 votes
Put a little clear nail polish or paint on the part that connects into the torso. Not too much, though, or the torso will crack

# Answer
> 3 votes
I have done this many times over the years, and it is a fantastic solution.

Separate the parts, and take a **very** tiny amount of crazy glue and put a dab inside the joint. Let it dry overnight before reassembling so you don't accidentally glue the figure together. The super thin layer of glue will put extra mass into the connection, and because it is crazy glue, it won't easily wear off. Because it is inside the joint, it is completely invisible when assembled.

You might want to mask your parts, as crazy glue dripped on Lego will permanently mark it, and I would suggest practicing this technique a few times on junk parts or trashed figures, because when I say very tiny amounts, I mean it. Lego fits very tightly to begin with, so even worn Lego is only going to need a little bit of material to fill the space.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Let them soak in sea-saltwater for a few hours. Rinse them off and they will have all tight joints.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Best way that I've just tried is to take a small and sharp screw driver and make one or two small scratches on the points where arms connect to the torso.

# Answer
> 1 votes
Like others have said - liquid crazy glue. But I must warn against putting glue on the arm itself, put the crazy glue on the socket in the torso. I speak from unfortunate experience when I say that putting even a little too much glue on the arm can cause even more damage to the joint, and if you put that tiny amount (and I mean tiny) around the inside of the socket it works much better and lasts much longer.

# Answer
> 1 votes
What worked for me for **Playmobil minifigures** was the following. Use transparent glue that dries in a matter of seconds (sometimes called "superglue"). Apply a small drop under the armpit (as if applying deodorant :-) and keep moving the arms while the glue dries (say for some 30 seconds). If the arm is still too loose, just repeat this a second time.

This does leave a tiny mark of glue on the armpits, but it is subtle enough that it doesn't bother me.

# Answer
> -1 votes
You can superglue them or buy a new arm.

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Tags: minifigures, repair
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title: Getting more tracks for 9V trains

text:
# Question
Title: Getting more tracks for 9V trains
I own sets 4551 (Crocodile Locomotive) and 4583 (Load N' Haul Railroad). The rails are 9V conduction type with metal top.

How can I get additional rail to extend my line?

Can I use RC/PF rails and get the newer trains that do not need conduction from the rails??

# Answer
LEGO doesn't make tracks that can conduct electricity anymore, so to get more you have three options:

1. 3rd party manufacturers - I know there are companies making curved track for larger curves than LEGO's own, I can't rule out that there's also companies making other types of track, but there's also copyright for them to think about
2. Used parts - curved track is cheap, straight tracks are expensive (most train sets came with a lot of curved track to make a circle, only some with a few straight tracks)
3. Make you own - as Ivan's answer details

Another solution is to buy some PF/PU trains motors etc., and rebuild the trains you have to use that, and drive them on plastic tracks. I guess you can find guides (for at least some models) online.
> 3 votes

# Answer
If your problem is obtaining more tracks suitable for 9V lego trains, one option is to use copper foil tape to electrify currently available tracks.

Chris Meyer wrote a lengthy article about this, so please read it. His results look encouraging:
> 2 votes

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Tags: trains, 9v
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# Question
Title: Why is my powered up system allowing only 1 speed, & only with the remote button held down?
My new MOC has a powered up battery box & motor, but only will run at the fastest speed. There is no speed control, when there should be many speed options. Also, it will only operate at all, if the button on the remote is held down. The moment you release the forward or backward button, it stops. Is anyone able to help with figuring this out?

# Answer
What you are describing is bang-bang mode. If the hub isn't connected to a smart-device running the powered-up app and the connected motor isn't a train motor, it's how a powered up hub connected with a powered up remote behaves.

It's reasonably straight-forward to create a project in the powered-up app to implement gradual speed control, but I dislike this option because it requires you to have an additional device (smartphone or tablet) running along side your moc.

My go to solution for this is Pybricks. It installs alternative firmware on your hub, allowing you to upload python programs to the hub. For example here is code to control the LEGO Technic Audi RS Q e-tron (42160) with the powered up remote.
> 5 votes

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Tags: powered-up, remote-control
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# Question
Title: What does a white icon of a brick with a plus sign mean in the instruction booklet?
I'm putting together the LEGO Orchid from the botanicals collection. On page 26 of the instruction booklet, step 34 has a strange icon: a white 2x2 brick with a "+" (plus) symbol.

There are no bricks that look anything like this piece being used in this step, and the arrow is pointing to a rod.

What is this icon trying to communicate?

# Answer
> 6 votes
It means that the part does not come in a numbered bag.

For example, see page 117 of the instructions for set 42158 "NASA Perseverance Rover", which I recently built:

That's telling me to get ready the contents of numbered bag 3, plus the wheels. If I recall correctly, the wheels did *not* come in any numbered bag, but rather in either an unnumbered bag or loose in the set's cardboard box.

Then the symbol is used again in the specific instructions step in which the aforementioned parts (in my case, the wheels) are used:

The same happens with bag 4 and some flex tubes. Again, the flex tubes were **not** inside bag 4:

---

This symbol is not only used in Technic builds. For example, see the instructions for set 60335 "Train Station":

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Specifically for set 10311 "Orchid", note that the symbol also appears on page 20 of its instructions booklet, about what numbered bag goes next:

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Tags: instructions
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# Question
Title: I have a pair of bricks that I would like identified. They are like a Slope 33 3 x 3 Double Convex Corner but with an uptick
I have a pair of unusual bricks that I would like identified, I have lost the instructions so cannot identify them.

I have tried searching on Bricklink and Rebrickable (even Google Image search) but cannot find them.

They are like a Dark Red 3675 (Slope 33 3 x 3 Double Convex Corner) but with an uptick on the opposite corner.

EDIT:

It's certainly not warped, it is curved by design, but perhaps it is not genuine lego, although I cannot remember buying any other sets.

# Answer
I have found it - it's Kre-O rubbish:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hasbro-Transformers-Grimlock-Street-Attack/dp/B00KONR5Z6
> 2 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Duplo train engine base part - replacement DC motor - which part to buy?
I have two Duplo train base parts, one that works, one that I want to repair, as it does not work (connects via Bluetooth, but in the end motor does not move). I disassembled that and figured out the motor does not work, even when I apply 5V manually to plus and minus terminals (on the other hand I can make motor moved that way). The motor shows "open line" resistivity, in contrast to around 10 Ohms in case of working motor. So it is broken (likely the wire has burned inside the motor and hence the open line).

Question: **what motor should I buy for the replacement so that it fits?** It is a relatively new part, so these "must" still be manufactured. The motor has no brand or marking on it whatsoever except for R 033K, which did not help me in any way.

There is a DUPLO train engine base part# 28743 engine is not working but I do not want to buy entire part, just the motor.

# Answer
I don't have that DUPLO part handy, but this certainly looks like a standard type 130 toy motor:

These are available at many online electronics parts stores. Before you order, you'll likely want to confirm with the specific datasheet that the size of the motor matches yours. Here's an example datasheet that you could check against:
> 4 votes

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Tags: repair, duplo, replacement-parts
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# Question
Title: How to connect & program Powered Up train motor?
I'm new to LEGO and am trying to motorize my Hogwarts Express train. Per the LEGO site, I bought the 88011 Train Motor and the 88006 Move Hub. But I can't figure out how to use them. I connected the wire from the Train Motor to the C and D ports but get nothing.

I downloaded the Powered Up App (which I also don't understand) which was synced with the Move Hub so at least I know the Hub batteries were installed correctly. Within the app I created a project ("Train") but then what? Are there instructions that explain the icons in the app and how to use them?

I also have a controller from a City Passenger Train (which does run) but I don't see how to use it with the 88011 Train Motor. The controller seems to control ports A and B but ports A and B on the Move Hub look like red axles.

I've tried YouTube but the YouTube videos don't bother explaining these basics as if to say "If you have to ask, you're probably too dumb to use LEGOs."

So, can someone please help me get to first base by getting this train motor to do something? What do I plug the Train Motor cable into? And then, how do I say "GO"?

Thanks in advance.

# Answer
> Are there instructions that explain the icons in the app and how to use them?

Yes - in LEGO Customer Service section. At the time of this writing:

At the very least, you'll want to start the program...

...set power to the motor connected to port C (or D, as appropriate)...

...wait a few seconds...

...then end the program.
> 2 votes

# Answer
Thank you so much, Ivan! This is EXACTLY what I needed.

For the benefit of others, here is how I connected it.
I decided to attach the Motor Hub to the top of the Train Motor. But, before building up the Train Motor, I strongly advise attaching everything and trying it out.

Step 1: Put batteries in the Motor Hub. If the light doesn't go on when you hit the green button then you probably have a problem with the batteries.

Step 2: Attach the cable from the Train Motor to either the C or D port of the Motor Hub.

Step 3: Download the LEGO Powered Up App. With the app, create a new "project" for your train. Then using bluetooth sync the app to the Motor Hub. This part is tricky but when it's all synced and ready, there will be a green checkmark over the bluetooth symbol on app.

Step 4: Following the advice in Ivan's post above, create a simple program by dragging the pieces from the bottom of the app to the center section and connecting them.

* I recommend inserting a pause right after the "Go" (green arrow) to give you time to put your hands on both sides of the train to keep it from flying off.
* Then add the olive green "start motor" block (it has a lightning bolt.) This block has 2 important parameters. The left parameter sets the port. Change this from A to C or D, depending on where you connected the Train Motor cable. The second parameter specifies the speed and the direction. A negative speed sends the train in reverse.

Step 5: The Train Motor replaces the "coal car". I disassembled the "coal car" and used the parts (plus other spare parts) to build up the Train Motor such that I could attach the Motor Hub on top of the Train Motor. The trickiest part of this is that the Motor Hub is much longer than the Train Motor so, in other to allow the new "motorized" car to attach to the other cars using the coupling plates, I needed to extend it in such a way that the coupling plates were at the same height as on the other cars. This took a few hours of fiddling.

Step 6: There are a lot of other things you can do with that app. For example, you can connect things to the red A and B ports and set your program so that they also spin while the train is running.
> 1 votes

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Tags: trains, powered-up
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# Question
Title: What Disney kit has part number 35347 with vines sticker on it?
What Disney kit has part LEGO Cylinder 3 x 6 x 6 Half with Tower with vines Sticker (35347) on it? Have all the set in pieces but the manual has been lost so do not know which manual to look for.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Based on your description and the element number, the only set I found matching this description is 41154: Cinderella's Dream Castle

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Did LEGO ever make motorised boats?

text:
# Question
Title: Did LEGO ever make motorised boats?
Did LEGO ever make motorised boats? Or an official motor that could be attached to LEGO floating boats.

# Answer
> 21 votes
LEGO had a "Accessory Motor for Boats" included in small number of boats/sets but also released as Accessory Motor for Boats polybag (7099) add-on.

Sets that included the motor in Orange are 7906 and 7899 and in Yellow are 7244, 4669 and 7099 mentioned above.

And here's a picture from Turbo-charged Police Boat (4669) set's instructions showing how to attach and operate the motor.

# Answer
> 12 votes
The Lego police boat (set 4010, from 1987) had a notch for fitting a motor on the bottom of the hull and it was referenced in its instructions:

The instructions read, in several languages:

> In some countries propellor motors (not made by LEGO™) are available from model shops. The notch in the bottom of the hull allows these motors to be attached.

There are other boats with similar hulls: sets 4011, 4012, 4020, 4021, 4022, 4030, 4031.

According to https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/156353-boat-hull-motors/ , the notch is compatible with the Playmobil 5159 Submarine Motor:

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Tags: motor, water, boat
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# Question
Title: What is this 2x2 part with one corner curved up?
I recently came across this LEGO part:

What part is this? What can it be used for?

# Answer
> 8 votes
The part is Plate Special 2 x 2 with Double Inverted Curve, 1 Stud (4190).

It was introduced in a few sets in 2023. It's original use was to provide an upward curve on roofs. This can be seen very easily in Himeji Castle (21060):

It can of course be used for many other things. Trivially, these parts can be tiled to create small peaks in a 4x4 area:

These parts are also compatible with some of the other recent inverted curved slope elements. For example, here it is next to Brick Curved, Internal Double, 3 x 3 with 1/3 Inverted Cutout, Corner (73682):

This is the same profile as Brick Curved, 3 x 1 with 1/3 Inverted Cutout(70681):

This curve also aligns perfectly with the curve of the telephone bow, assuming that is can be inverted:

Here's one way those parts can be used together:

Because the telephone lines up with a pair of these, the 2x1 bow slope also lines up easily:

The notched variant (29119/29120) of those slopes are also compatible:

In fact, those parts can be used to fill both sides of this part at once:

There are plenty of ways to use this part, either by integrating with other slopes, or arranging it using SNOT techniques. For example, here's a quick window that I made to demonstrate how these can be combined to create a nearly circular outline:

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information, piece-usage
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# Question
Title: Does the value of LEGO increase over a period of time?
I have a couple of exclusive LEGO sets such as the 50th Anniversary set, 10184 Town Plan, as well as the LEGO Harry Potter 10217 Diagon Alley set. I was wondering if these will increase in value into the future, and if certain LEGO sets increase in value more than others?

# Answer
> 10 votes
Generally speaking, yes. But there are many factors that determine how a given set will be priced over the years. Sets that have rare, more sought after pieces tend to cost more (think monorails), so if you'd happen to have a MISB monorail set you'd be rich. On the other hand, TLG can inadvertently mess with any investment plan by launching sets with similar themes or pieces, making your collection worth just as much as new sets.

Condition is also a key factor, MISB sets are on an entirely different level than opened, used, scratched, faded sets with missing pieces.

For more information i'd suggest looking at BrickPicker. There you can see that while the Diagon Alley has been slowly but steadily gaining value, the Town plan has basically stagnated. This could be caused by the value of a Harry Potter set for collectors, the unique pieces in that set, or any other factors.

There are also other questions in this topic here:

# Answer
> 3 votes
I think anything in excellent condition that is Harry Potter related will go up in value. My cousin has the entire original Lego Harry Potter set, and he's been offered quite a bit for it. Legos are expensive to begin with, and he was offered ten times what he paid.

# Answer
> 2 votes
If sets are popular amongst collectors and AFOLs and not very easy to substitute by other newer sets then yes, generally speaking they increase in value.

The increase in value depends on multiple factors as this Lego investment guide points out:

1. Theme and licence: these sets can not be replicated by different brick companies. The theme and licence enlarges the target group of the set significantly. Especially for Star Wars and Harry Potter.
2. Minifigures: There are many minifigure collectors which will pay a lot to just get the minifigure from the set.
3. Sets from films: fans of specific films are willing to spend more money on sets from a particular film because they associate the film with emotions.

As for both of your sets they increased a lot in value. The 10217 Diagon Alley is now worth around 560€ and the 10184 Town Plan around 360€

# Answer
> 0 votes
Generally a sets price will be a certain amount, say £60, at its release, and will then drop down over a couple of years to about £45. Then, when Lego stops making that set and it "retires", its price will shoot up within the next year, maybe to about £70, and then gradually increase from then onwards. Of course, this is not always the case, as explained in other answers, it depends on certain things, however it is a general trend that is often followed.

If you are looking for the price change or estimated price change in a certain set, I recommend using the website 'Brick Economy'.

https://www.brickeconomy.com/

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Tags: value, harry-potter
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# Question
Title: What set is the best value for what you pay (lowest average cost per brick)?
Which Lego set is the best value for its cost? What I mean, is if you were to find the average cost per brick, which set would be the lowest? I feel like it would be something with lots of tiny pieces, like a mosaic, but not sure what exactly it is.

# Answer
Brickset allows you to sort sets by "price per piece" if that's the metric you're interested in. Go to the sets browser, select a year and/or theme, and choose to sort by "Price per piece".

For 2023 eg., that yields the limited availability set 66747 Animal Play Pack with 486 pieces at a recommended retail price of $14.97, coming to only 3.1c per piece.

As you suspected, sets with lots of small parts can have an even lower price per piece. For example, set 41935 Lots of DOTS contains 1040 pieces (all 1x1 tiles of different shapes and colors) at a recommended retail price of $19.99, coming to only 1.9c per piece.
> 3 votes

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Tags: sets, value, bricks-and-pieces, mosaic
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title: Error correction after building the D11

text:
# Question
Title: Error correction after building the D11
I just finished the D11 bulldozer. The last LEGO set I built was 55 years ago, now I got this big machine and I really enjoy it!

But I have troubles with the the calibration and I think the failure is in the gearbox.

What is the best method to reverse engineer the D11 for error correction?

If possible, I don't want to totally rebuild the whole set.

# Answer
> 8 votes
I made a major rebuild of the D11, opened the gearbox, and found this orange Changeover Rotary Catch in a false position on Step 110 (Page 107) of the instructions. After the correction, the D11 runs fine.

# Answer
> -3 votes
Sometimes the calibration failure can be solved by reinstalling the control+ app.

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Tags: technic, gears
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# Question
Title: Software to do Duplo train track layout?
Anyone know a way to create with a software DUPLO train track layout?

The only thing I found is: http://www.anyrail.com/index\_en.html

It's a bit overkill for what I need and it's $US60, although the limited version can be used free.

LEGO has a track planner for non DUPLO track. http://www.lego.com/en-us/city/trains/track-planner

If I can't find something, I'll probably try to do it myself (I have a background of tools programmer in video game industry)

# Answer
> 11 votes
I would recommend BlueBrick, which is a versatile LEGO layout editor by Alban Nanty.

Apperently it has Duplo parts too, so I believe it should meet your needs. It can actually do much more for your layout planning needs (including modular tables if your club has some, for example), so maybe you'll consider it overkill as well, but since it's specifically made for LEGO layout I think you should be hapy with it.

Disclaimer: I have never used it for Duplo myself - if you do, feel free to share your experience with us in a comment.

# Answer
> 6 votes
You can use **RailModeller Express** or **RailModeller Pro** on macOS. Both feature LEGO tracks (regular and Duplo):

http://www.railmodeller.com/libraries.html

# Answer
> 3 votes
Thanks for mentioning our macOS apps!
You can also use our free app *RailModeller Express* for LEGO Duplo trains: http://www.railmodeller.com/express-edition-en.html

For iPads please check our new iOS app:
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/play-well-d-train/id1231936324?mt=8&at=1000lp7a

# Answer
> 3 votes
mayTracks - Lego Duplo Track Creator

A bit late - but there is an app for Windows and/or MAC to create DUPLO tracks with most known DUPLO bricks. I tested it and it works nice. In minutes and with a view clicks - I created large track plans. There is a PDF export too.

https://maytracks.maydorf.com

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Tags: trains, duplo, tracks
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# Question
Title: How to compare 2 custom lists of lego details?
I have a `.lxf` file for MOC. With Bricklink Studio I can create a list of details for it.

In Rebrickable I have a list of all parts that I own. Do we have a way to get somehow a list a details for this MOC that I do not own?

Rebrickable has this feature for sets and MOCs, but I can't find an option for custom lists.

# Answer
> 4 votes
First you need to create a Custom list on Rebrickable with contents of LXF file you got from Stud.io. Then you go to Compare sets where you have an option to compare a MOC vs your Custom List. You can find needed MOC by either its MOC ID or by its name in "Set Num" field. Custom List can be selected from drop-down menu.

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Tags: technic, bricklink
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title: DUPLO Train Action Bricks

text:
# Question
Title: DUPLO Train Action Bricks
I have the weirdest thing with my son's set. Currently one of the yellow action tiles honks the horn but the other yellow brick does not. No matter the lighting conditions, the position, orientation, etc. They both used to work and suddenly one is specifically not reacting. If it was different colors not responding I would assume battery issue is affecting the color sensor, but they are both the same color surface finish. Any thoughts?

# Answer
You may want to contact the LEGO customer service about it and see if they can provide a replacement brick. Assuming your train is 10874 or 10875, they should still have it in stock and you can probably just order a new one via a replacement part order.

On the other hand, since the recognition appear to be indeed color-based this might not help at all.
> 2 votes

# Answer
It seems the train motor shoots light and detects its reflections to respond to each action bricks. When the surface of the action brick is scratched up, the sensor cannot detect the color properly. This may explain why your toy responds to one yellow and not the other yellow action brick.

Incidentally, I noticed when the battery level is very low, the train fails to respond to any action bricks...
> 1 votes

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Tags: trains, duplo
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title: Best way to store baseplates

text:
# Question
Title: Best way to store baseplates
I recently acquired a large number of 32×32 baseplates (including the now rare tan ones) and old-style road plates that are no longer in their original packaging, but are still pristine.

What's a good (hopefully not too costly) way to store a bunch of baseplates? Currently, I just have them stacked in a cabinet, but I am sure they might get scratched if I keep them that way? Should I be sandwiching something between baseplates if I keep them in a pile? (Of course, a pile/stack makes it difficult to extract plates near the bottom, so better ideas are most welcome.)

# Answer
> 1 votes
I don't think you need such an extra care of the baseplates. I have a couple of used and abused baseplates with broken corners (from used bricks haul) and they still work. Yes, underside is scratched heavily, but the studs on top still hold the bricks.

My only suggestion would be - whatever you do, make sure baseplates do not bend while stored. Slightly bent baseplates still will be usable for your creations (like a buildings), however flat applications may no longer be flat.

Another observation I have is that even though baseplates do not have stud holes underside they still kind of "lock" when placed on top of each other and don't move too much. So I make use of that. Storing them vertically in a deep box proves helpful:

* easy to "lock" so they don't slide too much;
* easy to locate particular color/type you need;
* easy to remove without significant scratching (personally, don't consider them scratching this way);
* easy to transfer large numbers as single item/box.

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Tags: storage
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title: Which LEGO part can build this?

text:
# Question
Title: Which LEGO part can build this?
This is moko’s MOC mech, I want to know what the part highlighted within the blue circle is. I think it’s not 3638...

# Answer
> 21 votes
Neither Brickset nor Bricklink knows of a part with number 3638, so it's unclear what you do not think it is. But I believe it's 3937 Hinge Brick 1 x 2 Base \+ 3938 Hinge Brick 1 x 2 Top Plate.

# Answer
> 8 votes
As Henrik supports the community’s fine answer indicates, this is definitely 3937 Hinge Brick 1×2 Base \+ 3938 Hinge Brick 1×2 Top Plate, with both parts in white. The fact that these parts, as well as all the bricks around it, are white, and the photo is blurry and somewhat overexposed (at least for seeing details in all that white), makes this somewhat more difficult to see than it should be, so I traced out the 3937 piece in the photo to make it easier to see:

Note that this is in a SNOT configuration, with the base connected to studs that are above and behind it, pointed down and to the front of the model. This also matches the blocks on the top of the crest, which are pointing the same way. It may be easier to see the orientation of this section by looking at the end of that column, which is a 54200 Slope 30 1 x 1 x 2/3, a.k.a. the “cheese slope”. That’s pretty clearly visible in the photo, (mostly) filling in the gap that would otherwise exist in the corner (and preventing the 3937+3938 hinge from opening fully). It’s not clear from the photo what pieces were used to achieve this orientation; there are several options.

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Tags: part-identification
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