# Question
Title: Direct/system command for reading the display buffer of EV3 bricks?
I recall being able to read in the display buffer of NXT 2.0 bricks over Bluetooth/USB by issuing Read IO Map system commands. I've looked through the bytecodes and communication documentation for the EV3, but it's not clear how to do this with the EV3. Does anyone have any pointers?

# Answer
> 3 votes
I think you should be able to do this. The screen is represented by a framebuffer device. In Linux, *everything is a file*, so even the framebuffer is a file, namely `/dev/fb0`.

So, you should be able to read the display by reading the `/dev/fb0` file using something like this:

EDIT: Using direct commands didn't work out so well, so here is a sample using system commands.

```
Getting file content
--------------------

Used to upload datalog files - file handle is only closed when reaching EOF
and file is not open for writing

BEGIN_GETFILE:

  Bytes send to the brick:

  xxxxxxxx0196xxxxxxx
  bbbbmmmmttssllllnnn...

  bbbb = Bytes in massage, mmmm = message counter, tt = type of command,
  ss = system command, llll = max bytes to read, nnnn.... = path

  Bytes send to the PC:

  xxxxxxxx039600xxxxxxxx00xxx
  bbbbmmmmttssrrllllllllhhppp...

  bbbb = bytes ion massage, mmmm = message counter, tt = type of command,
  ss = system command, rr = return status, llllllll = File size, hh = Handle,
  ppp... = payload

CONTINUE_GETFILE:

  Bytes send to the brick:

  0700xxxx019700xxxx
  bbbbmmmmttsshhllll

  bbbb = bytes in massage, mmmm = message counter, tt = type of command,
  ss = system command, hh = handle, llll = max bytes to read

  Bytes send to the PC:

  xxxxxxxx039700xxxxxxxx00xxx
  bbbbmmmmttssrrllllllllhhppp...

  bbbb = bytes in message, mmmm = message counter, tt = type of command,
  ss = system command, rr = return status, llllllll = File size,
  hh = Handle, ppp... = payload

```

~~Opcodes come from here~~ System commands come from here. The size returned may be 0 since this is not a real file, but the framebuffer size is 7680 bytes (comes from here, i.e. `(178+2)/3*128`). Also, the maximum number of bytes allowable for `max bytes to read` depends on the connection type (USB, Bluetooth or Wi-Fi). 1000 should be a safe number.

Now, hopefully you have the data, but you still need to decode it. The framebuffer has an unusual format where there are 3 pixels per byte (see datasheet).

Assuming you have packed all of the data read into a single 7680 byte array you can use nested for loops to convert the data to whatever image format you like. For simplicity, I am going to use a .pbm. Just doing this in pseudo code...

```
// framebuffer data - 60 bytes/row * 128 rows
buffer[60*128]

// write the PBM header
write_line("P1")
write_line("178 128")
for (row = 0; row < 128; row++) {
    // last byte in each row only has 1 pixel, so only loop first 59 bytes
    for (offset = 0; offset < 59; offset++) {
        var b = buffer[row * 60 + offset];
        // 3 pixels per byte

        // bit 7 (or 6) is pixel 0
        write((b & 128) ? "1 " : "0 ")
        // bit 4 (or 3) is pixel 1
        write((b & 16) ? "1 " : "0 ")
        // bit 1 (or 0) is pixel 2
        write((b & 2) ? "1 " : "0 ")
    }
    // the last pixel
    b = buffer[row * 60 + offset]
    write_line((b & 128) ? "1" : "0")
}

```

---
Tags: mindstorms, ev3, programming
---


# Question
Title: Is there a way to re-tighten a minifigure's hip joint?
When a minifigure is new, the joints where its legs joins its hips is relatively stiff. However, when a minifig gets old and has been used a lot, this joint can get very loose leaving its legs very floppy. Why does this happen? Is there a risk-free way to re-tighten this joint?

# Answer
I would try pulling off the legs and dropping a tiny, tiny amount of plastic glue on the hinge, smooth it out and let it dry, then put the leg back on. It should provide enough friction to the leg again so they aren't so loose.
> 6 votes

# Answer
This video has a pretty good method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEkVPVgonRk

If you don't want to watch:

1. Pop both legs off the hips.
2. Rip off a small square of paper, preferably tissue paper.
3. Place it over the hole in one of the legs.
4. With the paper still around it, forcibly snap the leg back into place.
5. Repeat for the other leg.
6. Rip off any excess paper that is around the minifig.
7. If the legs get loose again, repeat steps one through six.
> 2 votes

---
Tags: minifigures, repair
---


# Question
Title: Lego remote controlled cargo train not working
I've helped my son put together the Cargo Train set (60052) but now we can't get the remote control to work.

It all looks like it's been assembled correctly with new batteries put in, but it doesn't move.

# Answer
> 9 votes
The best way to solve this type of problem is to break it down and isolate the fault.

You might find that it is easier to remove the Power Functions components from the model for some of the following:

* Check all connections. Disconnect each cable and re-connect everything. Ensure that the plugs are the right way around (they don't sit right if not) and that they are pushed on properly.
* Check that none of the cables are damaged.
* Connect the battery box directly to the train motor, bypassing the IR receiver. Does the train work now? If so, the problem is either the remote or the receier. If not, the problem is either the battery box or the motor.

**Remote / IR Reciever Problems**

If the problem is with the controller / IR receiver:

* Make sure that there is nothing blocking the signal between the controller and the IR receiver. Avoid bright sunlight.
* Check that both controller and receiver are on the same channel. There is an orange 4-position switch on both the IR receiver and on the controller, and this determines the channel. Leaving one switch alone, try all 4 positions on the other.
* Check that the batteries are inserted correctly in the remote. Take them out and put them back in again.
* Check that the batteries are aren't worn out. Sometimes even new batteries don't deliver the correct voltage. If you have one, test your batteries with a volt meter. If not, try swapping them with new batteries, or test the batteries in something else to make sure they're OK.
* Check that the battery terminals are not corroded. Sometimes corrosion isn't obvious. Try taking the batteries out and putting them back in again, or twisting them around until they may contact.
* You may be able to check that the controller is sending a signal. Although you can't see the flashes of IR light yourself, you may find that you can use a digital camera (such as a mobile phone camera) to see the flashes of light when you use the controls on the controller.

These images are from the LEGO web site, which contains more information on both the controller and IR receiver:

**Battery Box / Motor Problems**

Check the batteries in the battery box, following steps 3-5 above. The little green light should come on when they're OK and the battery box is switched on (the green button is the on-off switch).

There is a great description of the battery box on the LEGO web site, which might help explain things better than I can. This picture is from that site:

**If All Else Fails**

Contact LEGO customer services. They'll be deligted to help.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Did you check the channel settings on the remote and the receiver? There are 4 channels, and both the receiver on the train and the controller need to be on the same channel :) It's a little orange switch with the numbers 1-4 written next to it.

# Answer
> 2 votes
I just got two new 8885 remotes. Neither was working. Turns out in my case the plus terminals and the plus side of the batteries were not touching due to the terminals being kept too far away by the plastic housing. I bend the terminals a little by inserting a small screw driver behind them and now it works as a charm. Better to take batteries out when actually doing it not as shown on photo with batteries in it :-)

Bit of bad production.

# Answer
> 2 votes
We have the same problem as outlined above. We realised that the cheap AAA batteries we bought did not make contact with the positive end of the terminals in the controller. In other words the bumpy bit at the positive end of the battery is not high enough to make contact inside the controller. Solution - buy better quality AAA batteries. They will make proper contact.

# Answer
> 1 votes
We have had exactly the same issues with the remote control. We found that by checking the batteries were in correctly and rolling them once inside the unit to ensure good connection worked and the green light came on as well as the light on the reciever. The batteries fit with the outer 2 going one way and the inner one going the other as instructed. Hope this helps

# Answer
> 0 votes
So just bought a brand new LEGO Technic kit number 420030. Both IR remotes do not work when loaded with fresh batteries.

I just got off the phone with LEGO tech support on this and here's the information they provided. DURACELL batteries are the culprit as they're too short (that's per LEGO tech support).

I beg to differ however as I have side by side remotes (I have a third older remote from a previous kit) both loaded with Duracell and one working one not and the condition remains THE SAME even when I swap the batteries.

THIS IS A BAD BUILD ON LEGO'S PART. THEIR TOLERANCES HAVE NOT BEEN CONTROLLED. Applying the manipulation to the positive post on both controllers as detailed above fixed the problem on each.

BOO LEGO own your issues!

---
Tags: building, trains
---


# Question
Title: Why do several of the 2016 Star Wars sets include stands for the minifigs?
I've noticed that several of the new Star Wars sets include stands for the minifigs. For example Droid Escape Pod (75136):

What is the purpose of these? I don't see how they add play or display value.

# Answer
The stands you see aren't actually part of the set. They're there to make it easier to photograph the minifigs, and get photoshopped out in the final version of the set pictures.
> 11 votes

---
Tags: sets, minifigures, star-wars
---


title: Cheapest set containing electric motor

text:
# Question
Title: Cheapest set containing electric motor
Which LEGO set is the cheapest I can buy in a store with an electric motor in it?

# Answer
> 6 votes
First of all: LEGO prices fluctuate depending on retailer (LEGO.com, Wal-Mart, Target, Toys'R'Us, etc.), so "cheapest" also depends on the time of year and the retailer you look at.

Secondly, are you only interested in a PowerFunctions motor, and is the set you ask for just a vehicle to get the motor? In that case you might want to know that you can just buy a single motor from LEGO Shop@Home. Current price (Dec15) is $7.99 plus tax plus shipping.

You can also buy a kit with motor, lights, batterybox and a few gears directly from LEGO here; this set costs currently $29.99.

Power Functions motors typically come in the higher-priced Technic sets, of which currently 42008 Service Truck is the cheapest at $103.98 sale price.

There are a few non-Technic models every now and then that have Power Functions motors in them but I do not know of any set currently available that has a motor included.

---
Tags: building, piece-information, sets, bricks-and-pieces
---


title: No power to Mindstorm EV3 Brain

text:
# Question
Title: No power to Mindstorm EV3 Brain
My 11 year old just spent her entire Christmas Day assembling the Mindstorm EV3 Reptar, but when we put batteries in the brain nothing happened. It didn't turn on, no lights, no sign of power at all. We made sure the batteries were in correctly but still no luck. Does it need to be replaced or are we doing something wrong? Help!

# Answer
> 2 votes
If you are 100% sure that the batteries are in the correct direction and the batteries are brand-new, unplug all of the cables from the EV3 brick and try again to make sure they could not be causing a short circuit. If it still doesn't now power up, contact LEGO customer support.

In the US, you will be directed as follows...

> We have a dedicated Tech Support team for MINDSTORMS products. They can troubleshoot the problem and either resolve the issue or help you to get a replacement part. Tech Support can be reached at 1-877-680-2800 from Monday through Friday, 7:30am - 5:30pm CST.

---
Tags: ev3
---


# Question
Title: EV3 software crashes on Windows 8 laptop
My cousin has Windows 8 x64 netbook laptop. When he tries to start the application he gets .NET framework error and I can see following text in the log file:

```
+000,016 >> MINDSTORMS EV3 launched at 2015-12-27_12-31-07-odp.
+000,016 >> OS Type: Windows
+000,031 >> OS Version: Microsoft Windows NT 6.2.9200.0
+000,031 >> OS Bitness: 64-bit
+000,063 >> MINDSTORMS EV3 assembly file version: 1.0.11021.3
+000,063 >> MINDSTORMS EV3 build drop: R1-X3-Dev[GC]_20141021.3
+004,349 >> Bluetooth supported: True
+004,352 >> Bluetooth Primary Radio Information:
+004,352 >>     Manufacturer: RalinkTechnology
+004,352 >>     Software Manufacturer: IvtBlueSoleilXxxx
+004,352 >>     Stack Factory: InTheHand.Net.Bluetooth.BluetoothPublicFactory
+004,352 >>     Hardware Status: Running
+004,352 >>     Mode: PowerOff
+004,352 >>     Class: 10C
+004,352 >>     Local Address: 543530126E3A
+004,508 >> Enabling passive scan for TCP;USB
+005,618 >> Unhandled exception occurred at 2015-12-27_12-31-12-odp.
InTheHand.Net.Bluetooth.BlueSoleil.BlueSoleilSocketException (0x80004005): Došlo k pokusu o operaci s něčím, co není soket (BlueSoleil: FUNCTION_NOTSUPPORT (0x0308)).
   in InTheHand.Net.Bluetooth.BlueSoleil.BluesoleilUtils.CheckAndThrow(BtSdkError ret, String descr)
   in InTheHand.Net.Bluetooth.BlueSoleil.BluesoleilFactory.BluesoleilInquiry.<>c__DisplayClass3.<BeginInquiry>b__2()
   in InTheHand.Net.Bluetooth.Factory.CommonBluetoothInquiry`1.BeginInquiry(Int32 maxDevices, TimeSpan inquiryLength, AsyncCallback asyncCallback, Object state, LiveDiscoveryCallback liveDiscoHandler, Object liveDiscoState, ThreadStart startInquiry, DiscoDevsParams args)
   in InTheHand.Net.Bluetooth.BlueSoleil.BluesoleilFactory.BluesoleilInquiry.BeginInquiry(Int32 maxDevices, TimeSpan inquiryLength, AsyncCallback callback, Object state, LiveDiscoveryCallback liveDiscoHandler, Object liveDiscoState, DiscoDevsParams args)
   in InTheHand.Net.Bluetooth.BlueSoleil.BluesoleilClient.BeginInquiry(Int32 maxDevices, AsyncCallback callback, Object state, LiveDiscoveryCallback liveDiscoHandler, Object liveDiscoState, DiscoDevsParams args)
   in InTheHand.Net.Bluetooth.Factory.CommonDiscoveryBluetoothClient.BeginDiscoverDevices(Int32 maxDevices, Boolean authenticated, Boolean remembered, Boolean unknown, Boolean discoverableOnly, AsyncCallback callback, Object state, LiveDiscoveryCallback liveDiscoHandler, Object liveDiscoState)
   in InTheHand.Net.Bluetooth.Factory.CommonDiscoveryBluetoothClient.DiscoverDevices(Int32 maxDevices, Boolean authenticated, Boolean remembered, Boolean unknown, Boolean discoverableOnly)
   in NationalInstruments.Casper.BthDeviceDiscoveryService.ForceActiveScan(IEnumerable`1 transports)
   in NationalInstruments.Casper.DiscoveryManager.ForceActiveScan(IEnumerable`1 transports)
   in NationalInstruments.X3.BrickServerService.Core.PBrickDevice.<StartDiscovery>b__8(Object param0)
   in System.Threading.QueueUserWorkItemCallback.WaitCallback_Context(Object state)
   in System.Threading.ExecutionContext.RunInternal(ExecutionContext executionContext, ContextCallback callback, Object state, Boolean preserveSyncCtx)
   in System.Threading.ExecutionContext.Run(ExecutionContext executionContext, ContextCallback callback, Object state, Boolean preserveSyncCtx)
   in System.Threading.QueueUserWorkItemCallback.System.Threading.IThreadPoolWorkItem.ExecuteWorkItem()
   in System.Threading.ThreadPoolWorkQueue.Dispatch()
   in System.Threading._ThreadPoolWaitCallback.PerformWaitCallback()
Stack trace with ILOffsets:
   at InTheHand.Net.Personal.dll.BluesoleilUtils.CheckAndThrow  (IL offset: 0x70)
   at InTheHand.Net.Personal.dll.<>c__DisplayClass3.<BeginInquiry>b__2  (IL offset: 0x23)
   at InTheHand.Net.Personal.dll.CommonBluetoothInquiry`1.BeginInquiry  (IL offset: 0x9a)
   at InTheHand.Net.Personal.dll.BluesoleilInquiry.BeginInquiry  (IL offset: 0x4c)
   at InTheHand.Net.Personal.dll.BluesoleilClient.BeginInquiry  (IL offset: 0x0)
   at InTheHand.Net.Personal.dll.CommonDiscoveryBluetoothClient.BeginDiscoverDevices  (IL offset: 0x35)
   at InTheHand.Net.Personal.dll.CommonDiscoveryBluetoothClient.DiscoverDevices  (IL offset: 0x0)
   at NationalInstruments.X3.Casper.dll.BthDeviceDiscoveryService.ForceActiveScan  (IL offset: 0x4a)
   at NationalInstruments.X3.Casper.dll.DiscoveryManager.ForceActiveScan  (IL offset: 0x16)
   at NationalInstruments.X3.BrickServerService.Core.dll.PBrickDevice.<StartDiscovery>b__8  (IL offset: 0x0)
   at mscorlib.dll.QueueUserWorkItemCallback.WaitCallback_Context  (IL offset: 0xe)
   at mscorlib.dll.ExecutionContext.RunInternal  (IL offset: 0x70)
   at mscorlib.dll.ExecutionContext.Run  (IL offset: 0x0)
   at mscorlib.dll.QueueUserWorkItemCallback.System.Threading.IThreadPoolWorkItem.ExecuteWorkItem  (IL offset: 0x23)
   at mscorlib.dll.ThreadPoolWorkQueue.Dispatch  (IL offset: 0x9d)
   at mscorlib.dll._ThreadPoolWaitCallback.PerformWaitCallback  (IL offset: 0x0)

```

I was able to get the error number for the Czech error text along with it's English version:

> #10038 Socket operation on nonsocket.

I guess it's something bluetooth related. The program version is `1.1.1` (`20141021.3`) and the corresponding installer name is `LMS-EV3-WIN32-ENUS-01-01-01-full-setup.exe`.

How could I fix that? Any workaround is appreciated.

# Answer
> 1 votes
Yes, it sounds like it does not like your Bluetooth for some reason. Usually, there is a physical switch on laptops that let you disable bluetooth. If there is not a physical switch, there should be a way to do it via software, either via the bluetooth notification tray icon or special Bluetooth software that came with the laptop.

Try turning off/disabling Bluetooth and then start the EV3 software.

Also, be sure to send this crash report to LEGO technical support.

---
Tags: ev3, bluetooth
---


title: Problems with New LEGO Cargo Train

text:
# Question
Title: Problems with New LEGO Cargo Train
My son's LEGO Cargo Train worked the first 10 minutes and then stopped. The batteries are new, Duracell, and both, the remote and the receiver, seem to be ok. Both of them have the green light on. Also they are fixed on the same channel, but the train still doesn't move. What should I do? It was a Christmas Present for my son of 6 years old and now he is a bit disappointed. Help please! Thank you!

# Answer
I would start by breaking down the problem into a few simple checks:

1. Take the battery pack out of the engine of the train and press the green button. Does the green LED light turn on? If no, there is likely a problem with either the batteries or the battery housing itself. You might want to take all the batteries out and reinsert them, or rotate the batteries a bit when they are inserted (I have found that this sometimes improves the contact they make).
2. Put the battery pack back in the train, and connect the train motor directly to the battery pack (i.e. do NOT connect the IR receiver in between the motor and the battery pack). If you press the green button on the battery pack, do the wheels of the train spin? If yes, do they spin fast? If the battery pack refuses to turn the wheels, there might be a problem with the train motor (but there could also be a problem with the charge level of the batteries).
3. Assuming both the battery pack and the motor work fine, now connect the IR receiver between the battery pack and the motor. Look closely onto which of the two connectors you put the motor connector (red or blue).
4. Check the remote and make sure it has batteries inserted and that the batteries are inserted in the correct direction. Press one of the red buttons on the remote. This should make the green LED light in the middle of the remote light up. If it doesn't, you have either not inserted the batteries right, or they have come loose, or the remote control is broken.
5. Using the remote, turn the control knob of either the red or blue control section (depending on where in step 3 you connected the wires) and see if this makes the motor turn. If it does not, try turning the knob further. Also, make sure that the receiver is in direct line of sight from the remote control (you should be able to see the black curved top of the IR receiver from where you are standing with your remote control)
6. If the wheels still do not turn, check the channel setting of the remote and the IR receiver - they should be the same. Try again to turn the knob once you set them both to the same channel. If that still does not work, try different channel settings (e.g. both on Channel 2, both on Channel 3 etc) - you might have some interference from another IR source.
7. If after all this the wheels on the train still do not turn, you have a defective motor (it might have burned through because of too much resistance etc.). Try calling LEGO Customer Service (in the US, their number is 1 (800) 835-4386) or visit them online. If you have a LEGO store nearby, you could ask them to assist as well, though all they can do is do an exchange which they may or may not do depending on the state of the unpacked set.

Good luck and let us know what happens ...
> 6 votes

---
Tags: power-functions
---


title: Where can I get RCX 1.0 software?

text:
# Question
Title: Where can I get RCX 1.0 software?
We've got a LEGO RCX 1.0 without any Software. I've installed the USB IR Tower, what should I do now?

I've downloaded the EV3 Software from the LEGO homepage and thought I could use this, but I don't know how.

Can you tell me, how my son could play with it?

# Answer
The EV3 software is not backwards compatible with RCX 1.0.

You will need to install the software from the CD-ROM that would have come with your set. If you do decide to purchase one online, you can do so from a 3rd party marketplace such as Bricklink.

Be sure to install the correct version of the CD-ROM (RCX 1.0) and check to see if your operating system is compatible with the software.
> 2 votes

# Answer
You can use **any** version of the original Robotics Instruction Set (RIS) with this brick: 1.0, 1.5, or 2.0. There is also one release of software from LEGO Education that was the last that supported the RCX brick, but I don't know much about that. Any of these will work with the brick you have.

These releases are Windows only, AFAIK. If you don't run Windows, your biggest hurdle will be getting a Windows VM working with the serial or USB IR tower.

It will upload the latest firmware to the brick, so even if your brick says "1.0" on it, it will accept any version of the bundled (or supplied by you) firmware. That is, firmware versions 3.09, 3.28, 3.32 will all work on the original RCX 1.0.

So, my advice is to find a copy of RIS 2.0 for your son. You should be able to find it on eBay or Bricklink.

I see there is another answer that attempts to help you find the RIS 2.0 package.
> 0 votes

# Answer
Instead of the LEGO RIS software, you can use BricxCC to write programs for the RCX.

It's not graphical as the LEGO software but is intended to teach programming instead of drawing blocks on screen.

It works well under Wine if you're using Linux.
> -1 votes

---
Tags: software, rcx
---


# Question
Title: How can I stop the LEGO Cargo train 60052 wheels from skidding on track?
I have the Cargo train 60052, it's only around a year old and lately I've found on starting it (on both straight and curved track pieces) it isn't moving, the wheels seem to skid on the tracks and I have to give it a little nudge to get it going, even then it tends to stop further down.

I'm wondering if this is an issue with the tracks or the wheels?

I have taken them off and tried wiping them and 'rotating' them but no luck. I have looked online but haven't found any resolution, can anyone help me? :)

# Answer
> 5 votes
Replace or reset the rubber bands on the wheels. This trick works on the 80s era trains so should work here too.

---
Tags: piece-information, trains
---


title: DNX on LEGO Mindstorms

text:
# Question
Title: DNX on LEGO Mindstorms
I am not familiar with ARM development but I am wondering would it be possible to compile DNX against LEGO Mindstorms EV3 processor. I know there is some ARM support and even there are some builds against it (nuget packages for arm architecture for asp.net-5) but I don't know if there are any differences between ARM processors that would prevent doing this on LEGO.

I know that there are projects like lejos that compile java runtime and run it on LEGO brick. There is Mono Brick project that runs mono runtime and uses mono libraries. DNX is also open source so I would believe that can be done.

So my question is if DNX currently support this or it would need some serious rewrite?

Can https://github.com/aspnet/dnx/tree/dev/src/dnx.coreclr.unix project be used as a startup point?

I am currently interested only in some very simple implementation runtime that bootstrap a simple .net application on EV3 brick. No sensors are needed.

# Answer
> 0 votes
Totally possible, see the link and issue tracker here : https://twitter.com/shanselman/status/667144339353526272 https://github.com/aspnet/dnx/issues/3145

---
Tags: ev3, programming, monobrick
---


title: Is this a LEGO Friends set?

text:
# Question
Title: Is this a LEGO Friends set?
Got a bag with a lot of pink bricks. I think it is one of the LEGO Friends sets but don't know which set. Can anybody help me identify?

# Answer
The door is probably Frame 2X4X6 in Medium Lilac. This depends on the thickness of the piece 1 or 2 studs as this is not clear on the picture.

This piece in combination with the white door only comes in 2 sets :

Neither set contains the other pieces. I can't find the other pieces on Brickset. Are these pieces coming out of an official Lego sealed bag?

Based one the quality of the darker green one, I'm not sure if these are Lego parts as there are blisters and leftover plastic on them (between top leaf and rest of the part).
> 6 votes

---
Tags: set-identification, friends
---


title: DUPLO Train Shopping Resources

text:
# Question
Title: DUPLO Train Shopping Resources
I recently bought the **10508** train set for my 3 year old and he just loves playing with it. I am aware of the **10507** and **10506** sets to expand further.

Are there any other resources available to buy locomotives / coaches and track pieces, bridges, etc. that are not part of the above 2 mentioned sets but will work with the **10508** set?

# Answer
> 3 votes
You might consider buying duplicates of some of the train sets to get more tracks and bridges, or you can buy the pieces individually on BrickLink, the largest online LEGO marketplace. For example if I pull up the #10508 set on BrickLink and look at the parts selection, I can see that the straight train tracks are available for about a dollar each from many different sellers. Same for the curved tracks. Here are some direct links:

Straight tracks: http://alpha.bricklink.com/pages/clone/catalogitem.page?P=6377&idColor=85#T=P&C=85

Curved tracks: http://alpha.bricklink.com/pages/clone/catalogitem.page?P=6378&idColor=85#T=P&C=85

And you can do the same for other pieces, including the bridge section, etc. Here is the page for the main set where you can look at the parts selection and see the ones you would like to get more of: http://alpha.bricklink.com/pages/clone/catalogitem.page?S=10508-1#T=I

And here are all the DUPLO train sets ever made: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?catType=S&catString=167.441

---
Tags: shopping, trains, duplo
---


# Question
Title: Reading current motor speed, opOutput_Read
I'm trying to read current motor speed using direct command:

```
Instruction        opOutput_Read (LAYER, NO, *SPEED, *TACHO)
Opcode             0xA8
Arguments          (Data8) LAYER – Specify chain layer number [0 - 3]
                   (Data8) NO – Port number [0 - 3]
                   (Data8) *SPEED – Output speed level detected, [-100 - 100]
                   (Data32) *TACHO – Current output tacho count

```

When I'm sending something like this:

```
unsigned char opOutput_Read[]
{
    0x0A, 0x00,              // bytes in message
    0x00, 0x00,              // message counter
    DIRECT_COMMAND_REPLY,    // tt   = Direct command with reply
    0x02, 0x00,              // 2 values will be returned
    0xA8,                    // opOutput_Read,
    GV0(0),                  // speed in return
    GV2(1)                   // tacho in return
};

```

I'm getting DIRECT\_REPLY\_ERROR. What am I doing wrong?

# Answer
The TACHO parameter is 4 bytes (32 bits).

```
(Data32) *TACHO – Current output tacho count

```

However, you have only allocated it 2 bytes (16 bits)

```
GV2(1)                   // tacho in return

```

Try using `GV4` instead of `GV2`.
> 1 votes

# Answer
You need to reserve 1 byte for the speed in return and 4 bytes for the tacho in return. However, the tacho has to be 32-bit-aligned and so you will need 3 padding bytes after the speed:

```
unsigned char opOutput_Read[]
{
    0x0A, 0x00,              // bytes in message
    0x00, 0x00,              // message counter
    DIRECT_COMMAND_REPLY,    // tt   = Direct command with reply
    0x08, 0x00,              // 8 values will be reserved
    0xA8,                    // opOutput_Read,
    GV0(0),                  // speed in return
    GV0(4)                   // tacho in return
};

```
> 1 votes

# Answer
I've found answer here: http://topikachu.github.io/python-ev3/bytecodeexamples.html. It can be done using direct command:

```
Instruction        opInput_Device (CMD, ...)
Opcode             0x99
Arguments          (Data8) CMD => Specific command parameter documented below
                   CMD:READY_SI = 0x1D
                   Arguments
                       (Data8) LAYER – Specify chain layer number [0-3]
                       (Data8) NO – Port number
                       (Data8) TYPE – Specify device type (0 = Don’t change type)
                       (Data8) MODE – Device mode [0-7] (-1 = Don’t change mode)
                       (Data8) VALUES – Number of return values
                   Returns (Depending on number of data samples requested in (VALUES))
                       (DataF) VALUE1 – First value received from sensor in the specified mode

```

so to read speed from port A the one should send:

```
unsigned char opInput_Device[] =
{
    0x0D, 0x00,              //bbbb = bytes in message
    0x00, 0x00,              //mmmm = message counter
    DIRECT_COMMAND_REPLY,    //tt   = Direct command with reply
    0x04, 0x00,              //
    0x99, 0x1D,              //opInput_Device, READY_SI
    LC0(0),                  //Layer 0
    LC0(16),                 //16=PortA, 17=PortB, 18=PortC, 19=PortD
    LC0(0),                  //default type
    LC0(2),                  //mode 2
    LC0(1),                  //1 value will be returned
    0x60                     //local variable 0
};

```
> 0 votes

---
Tags: ev3, programming
---


# Question
Title: LEGO Mindstorms EV3 crashes on OS X El Capitan
I get the following problem details, can anyone help me?

```
Process:               MindstormsEV3 [595]
Path:                  /Applications/LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 Home Edition.app/Contents/MacOS/MindstormsEV3
Identifier:            ___ev3.lego.com
Version:               1.0 (1)
Code Type:             X86 (Native)
Parent Process:        ??? [1]
Responsible:           MindstormsEV3 [595]
User ID:               501

Date/Time:             2016-01-02 19:49:06.678 +0100
OS Version:            Mac OS X 10.11.2 (15C50)
Report Version:        11
Anonymous UUID:        7C4B40A6-2FAA-BA7A-5740-01D0F51AF6AB

Time Awake Since Boot: 2100 seconds

System Integrity Protection: enabled

Crashed Thread:        0  Dispatch queue: com.apple.main-thread

Exception Type:        EXC_CRASH (SIGABRT)
Exception Codes:       0x0000000000000000, 0x0000000000000000
Exception Note:        EXC_CORPSE_NOTIFY

Application Specific Information:
abort() called

Thread 0 Crashed:: Dispatch queue: com.apple.main-thread

Logical CPU:     0
Error Code:      0x00080148
Trap Number:     132

```

# Answer
> 5 votes
Check if you have Silverlight plugin on your mac:

1. Access your hard drive
2. Double-click the hard drive icon on your desktop
3. Find the plugin
4. Navigate to your Internet Plug-Ins directory: /Library/Internet Plug-Ins/

If installed:

1. Remove the plugin
2. Drag any of the following into your trash bin:
    * Silverlight.plugin

Then dowload and install the Silverlight plugin from here:

https://www.microsoft.com/silverlight/

If not ok remove and reinstall Mindstorms software.

---
Tags: mindstorms, ev3, software, mac
---


# Question
Title: How do you sync the LEGO high speed train remote?
How do you sync the LEGO high speed train remote?

# Answer
> 2 votes
I'm going to take a stab at this. Presumably you're asking how to make the train remote properly control the train. There are two things to consider: 1. Which channel to use, and 2. Motor direction.

1. Channel: The train remote features two wheels which can be used to control two motors independently. One has a blue line and one has an red line. These correspond to the blue and red markers on the IR sensor. Also, the IR sensor and the remote have an red sliding tab with numbers 1-4. These need to be set to the same number. So check on your IR sensor and see which number your slider is set to, and which side (blue or red) your motor is connected to. Then make sure you set the slider on the remote to match the IR, and use the appropriate wheel.
2. Direction: There are two ways to control the direction the train goes when you turn the wheel. One way is to flip the polarity switch on the train battery box. The other way is to flip the direction switch on the remote. If you find the train goes backwards when you turn the wheel meaning it to go forwards, just flip this switch.

Aside from these cases, there is nothing else to configure about the remote. As long as your batteries are fresh and your train is wired up properly, it should work just fine with any combination of sensors and remotes. You can even use one remote to control multiple trains as long as each one is on a separate channel/colour.

---
Tags: power-functions
---


title: How to fix the Gyro

text:
# Question
Title: How to fix the Gyro
Currently the gyro sensor connected to the EV3 brick doesn't really work. whenever the gyro is attempted to be used the robot will just sit and spin once it gets to where it needs to use the gyro. Any suggestions would be appreciated

```
forward(4.8, rotations, 50);
wait(.5, seconds);
resetGyro(S2);
setMotor(motorB, 35);
setMotor(motorC, -35);
waitUntil (getGyroDegrees(gyroSensor) > 80);
forward(2, rotations, 50);
wait(.5, seconds);
resetGyro(S2);
setMotor(motorB, 35);
setMotor(motorC, -35);
waitUntil (getGyroDegrees(gyroSensor) > 80);
forward(4.8, rotations, 50);
wait(.5, seconds);
resetGyro(S2);
setMotor(motorB, -35);
setMotor(motorC, 35);
waitUntil (getGyroDegrees(gyroSensor) > 80);
forward(2, rotations, 50);
wait(.5, seconds);
resetGyro(S2);
setMotor(motorB, -35);
setMotor(motorC, 35);
waitUntil (getGyroDegrees(gyroSensor) > 80);

```

# Answer
Debugging tip: Inside of the wait loop, print the gyro angle on the screen so that you can see what the actual value is.

---

In your code, I see...

```
setMotor(motorB, 35);
setMotor(motorC, -35);

```

...which presumably causes the robot to rotate clockwise. And also...

```
setMotor(motorB, -35);
setMotor(motorC, 35);

```

...which presumably rotates the robot counter clockwise. *But*, you always have...

```
waitUntil (getGyroDegrees(gyroSensor) > 80);

```

I would assume that when you rotate counter-clockwise that the angle gets smaller (or it could be the opposite depending on which way the gyro is oriented). In this case, I would thing you need...

```
waitUntil (getGyroDegrees(gyroSensor) < -80);

```

...instead since the value will be decreasing from 0.

---

You also need to be aware of gyro drift that can cause the angle to change even when the robot is not moving. Calling `resetGyro(S2);` resets the angle reading to 0, but it probably does not "calibrate" the sensor to eliminate drift. Common ways of doing this are unplugging the sensor and plugging it back it and changing the "mode" of the sensor (e.g. by reading rate and then reading angle).
> 2 votes

---
Tags: ev3, robotc, gyro
---


# Question
Title: How do I find a set number without box or instructions?
So my brother found a open bag of a LEGO Chima kit. It had some of the pieces in it. I want to replace the missing pieces but I don't have the box. I tried looking for unique pieces but it didn't seem to have any. I also don't have the instructions.

# Answer
> 7 votes
Choose a brick, the most distinctive the better.

Look for the part number. These are on the underside of plates, or inside bricks. They can be microscopic but every piece had one.

Go to peeron.com. Enter the part number into the search box. A list of all the sets containing that part number should, with luck, come up.

If you need to, repeat with another brick. Because you know it's a Chima set you should be able to deduce the set, set number and parts list fairly quickly. I've done this many times.

# Answer
> 0 votes
Do you have any of the minifigures from the set? That would be the easiest way to identify the set. Other than that, your only option is to look for the most unique looking part and see which sets it appeared in. I know you mentioned none of the parts appear to be unique, but sometimes just a color variation can narrow it down. Anything like wheels, slopes, larger plates can help, as they appear in less sets. Also, you may want to post a picture here of the parts assortment you have, and see if someone can identify the set for you.

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: Piece to hot air balloon won't fit. Anything I can do?
I am putting together the 41097 hot air balloon with my daughter and there is a red piece that shows a rod should go through however the rod will not go through no matter what we do. There seems to be a stop inside the red piece.

# Answer
My son had the exact same problem with this set at Christmas.

In step 1, you put the red joiner on the axle. In step 2, there is a smaller axle that gets put in the other end. The only clue is that each step shows what parts are needed, so you can see that there is a little axle there that needs to be incorporated.
> 11 votes

---
Tags: friends
---


# Question
Title: Why did LEGO stop selling sets for <1.5 year old (Primo etc)?
LEGO used to make Primo sets and baby toys for 6 month+ babies.

As a parent of a young child the only option I have is Lego Duplo that isn't quite ready for her age.

Are used Lego Primo sets safe for children? I don't get why LEGO only sells toys for children older than 1.5 years. Why did they stop?

# Answer
> 6 votes
I can't comment on why Lego stopped selling Primo. But I can assure you that Duplo is fine for children. The smallest pieces are way too large to choke on, as far as I can tell. Small babies probably don't know how to put the pieces together very well, but that doesn't stop you from building a little house or car or something and letting them play with it.

---
Tags: duplo, safety
---


# Question
Title: Where can I find the instructions for the crane on the back page of Lego Juniors: Construction (10667)
Where can I find the instructions for the crane on the back page of Lego Juniors: Construction (10667), as pictured.

I tried contacting Lego Support who replied unhelpfully with:

*We currently have over 3300 building instructions available online on LEGO.com/service under Building Instructions. They’re really easy to find: You can search by set number, keyword, play theme or launch year.*

# Answer
> 10 votes
I rebuilt the model as best as I could in Lego Digital Designer using only parts from that particular set.

There were a few parts where I couldn't actually find a piece in that set so I used a replacement part that exists in the set.

**LDD File**

**PDF Instructions + Part List**

# Answer
> 4 votes
I think LEGO has got you fooled here - they do not mention that the pictured model has specific alternate building instructions, they just mention that there are a lot of building instructions online. Pretty sad of course and I agree they do make you think this set has other building instructions for the pictured model.

I've looked at LEGO/service, BrickSet, Brickpedia, BrickInstructions.com and nowhere does anyone list an alternative model with instructions for this set.

# Answer
> 1 votes
The Lego website makes it hard to find, but it's there. (I found this question while trying to find it in fact.)

1. Search for kit number 10667, which takes you to the 10667 kit page
2. Click the "Building instructions" tab below the image...
3. ...which will reveal a *single link*, "Building instructions". Yes. Clicking that will take you to a page with a box containing links to five PDFs
4. The last PDF, labeled **10667 WEB BI** (no cover image), is the one you want. (Here's a link to the PDF served from Akamai which won't work forever.)

---
Tags: instructions, juniors
---


title: How can I reuse LEGO part bags?

text:
# Question
Title: How can I reuse LEGO part bags?
I go through so many of these annoying plastic bags. Unfortunately, not many places recycle them. Are there any ways they can be re-sealed?

# Answer
> 2 votes
Use a manual impulse sealer. It consists of a linear heating element specifically for sealing bags in the fashion LEGO parts bags are sealed by the factory. Narrow sealers can be purchased new online for as little as $12-15. It's helpful that LEGO parts bags are relatively small.

I use these devices to reuse bags for various non-LEGO parts storage. There is a dial on the front to adjust the heating cutoff. Depending on the material and thickness a different heating time is needed to ensure a good seal without damaging the plastic.

Here's a video demonstrating its use: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iH-SbjYNzQc

# Answer
> 2 votes
One way of resealing the bags is to use a laminator. Most laminators aren't designed to seal anything other than lamination pouches so you'd want to be particularly careful using them to re-seal LEGO bags.

No matter how careful you are when you open them, most polybags tear slightly and leave rough edges that cannot be fed easily into a laminator.

I suggest cutting a straight line with scissors or a ruler/box cutter, just below the original seam.

Start up the laminator to get it warmed up and fill your polybag, I don't recommend you fill it up more than 1/2 or 2/3 of the bag as it can be difficult to feed the laminator.

Don't let it run too long as it will be quite difficult to remove (as shown in my example, I left it about a second too late, the second time I fed it into the laminator), it doesn't take a long time for it too seal completely and it takes a few tries to get it work well.

After the bag expands, it should be airtight and you can turn of the laminator, and remove it when it is safe to do so.

---
Tags: packaging
---


title: Can I change the spec of a MyBlock

text:
# Question
Title: Can I change the spec of a MyBlock
If I create my own block (MyBlock) with one param and later discover that I should have used 2 params or different icon or something like that, what do I do?

Is it possible to change the existing definition of a block or do I need to build a fully new block?

# Answer
> 0 votes
Just start a new block with an operation block you won't need, set the proper number of params; select everything in the old MyBlock and paste it into the new, then delete the thing you don't need.

---
Tags: ev3
---


title: LEGO Cleaning/Sterilisation

text:
# Question
Title: LEGO Cleaning/Sterilisation
I am just looking to see if anyone knows of a LEGO product that exists that allows you to sterilise your LEGO using your dishwasher.

Thanks

# Answer
> 2 votes
There is no LEGO product specifically meant for this, however you can use third-party laundry-bags, or even a pillow-case, to wash your LEGO in the dishwasher or washing-machine. If you use the dishwasher, make sure you use the top-rack, and the water should be luke-warm. You can use mild soap.

# Answer
> 1 votes
I don't know if this is the generally accepted method, but when I cleaned my old pieces, I put them in a washbasin in soapy water and then used a soft toothbrush to clean them off. After that I just air-dried them. Most of the pieces became nice and clean after this but old discoloration and scratches won't go away.

Using hot water (dishwasher or not) and / or hot air may warp the pieces.

---
Tags: cleaning
---


# Question
Title: How to control a RCX from a Mindstorms NXT
I have both an RCX and an NXT. I would like to control the RCX brick from the NXT (and possibly communicate back to to the NXT from the RCX). I would like to avoid purchasing the Mindsensors RCX to NXT Communication Adapter which is no longer available in their store, and instead control the RCX via inputs to one of it's sensor ports via outputs from an NXT sensor port.

The physical connection can be achieved with the NTX to RCX converter cable but I am unsure how to control the output from the NXT sensor port to emulate any of the sensors that the RCX can recognise.

I found this post on another forum asking a very similar question, but the people who responded don't seem to have understood OP's intent, it is however worth a look for the illustrations.

This then is really a question about programming the NXT to gain fine control over the output from a sensor port to emulate a RCX sensor and if it is even possible.

I am open to solutions in any programming language/environment.

# Answer
I think you're overlooking a very simple yet elegant solution: connect a NXT motor to the motor port (no problem there, that's what it's for), connect a RCX rotation sensor to the RCX (again, the intended purpose), and by now you should pretty much know where I'm going with this: connect the rotation sensor mechanically to the NXT motor.

Considering the NXT motor has a good precision, you can easily you this to send messages from the NXT to the RCX; but of course you'll need to invent the protocol yourself; that is, decide what these messages mean. And you won't have feedback from the RCX to the NXT (you didn't ask for it though)

I know you don't want to purchase anything, but for reference, there is now the IR Link Sensor made by HiTechnic and sold directly by LEGO, which is presumably easier to use (and you can get feedback through it, too).

I don't think you'll be able to use a converter cable directly; you'll need to use some intermediary electronic, possibly using the I2C protocol. This prototype board solution (also from HiTechnic) should do the trick if you use one of the outputs to drive the RCX input (you can probably use an analogue one).

And if it's more ports you're after, you'll want to consider their multiplexers too.
> 5 votes

# Answer
I know this is 3 and a half years late, but I figured I'd throw in my two cents.

Attach an NXT light sensor and an RCX light sensor facing into each other. You can communicate bi-directionally by flashing the built-in LEDs.

On the RCX side, this can be accomplished by switching the sensor mode between touch sensor and light sensor to passivate or activate the LED. From the NXT, things should be simpler, and even the NXT-G software has the ability to turn on and off the LED.
> 3 votes

---
Tags: nxt, mindstorms, software, programming, rcx
---


# Question
Title: Is there a changelog for any firmware updates on an EV3 brick?
When a firmware update is released for the Mindstorms EV3 brick, are there usually any changelogs for them explaining what's been added or changed? If so, where can they be found?

# Answer
Update:

I have found a changelog in the firmware source code available on the download page at http://mindstorms.lego.com. The file is `lms2012/doc/Implementation`. Here is the history since v1.03 which shipped with the first retail EV3s.

```
/******************************************************************************
 * APPLICATION VERSIONS
 *****************************************************************************/
/*! \page applicationversions Application Versions
 *
 *  This section describes the relative changes from previous version
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v109D
 *
 *-# As v109H but telnet enabled with password "Just a bit off the block!"                    \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v109
 *
 *-# As v1081 but version changed to 1.09                                                     \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v1081
 *
 *-# Telnet disabled                                                                          \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v108
 *
 *-# Support for edimax added                                                                 \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v107
 *
 *-# As v1066 but version changed to 1.07                                                     \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v1066
 *
 *-# ISSUE 4330 - sub call aliases block local issue UN-fixed                                 \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v1065
 *
 *-# Bluetooth bundle changed to "BA9Q76VTQG" "com.lego.education.ev3"                        \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v1064
 *
 *-# Bluetooth bundle changed to "BA9Q76VTQG" "com.lego.edu.ev3"                              \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v1063
 *
 *-# Bluetooth bundle changed                                                                 \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v1062
 *
 *-# Bluetooth bundle changed for test                                                        \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v1061
 *
 *-# "Brick Name" app implemented                                                             \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v106_140502
 *
 *-# As v105a but version changed to 1.06                                                     \n
 *
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v105a_140327
 *
 *-# IIC issue with automatic update blocking access fixed in "d_iic.c"                       \n
 *-# UART protocol escape future issue fixed in "d_uart.c"                                    \n
 *
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v105H_140211
 *
 *-# As v104x but version changed to 1.05                                                     \n
 *
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v104x_140206
 *
 *-# ISSUE 4330 - sub call aliases block local issue fixed                                    \n
 *-# Number of memory handles rised from 250 to 500 (MAX_HANDLES = 500)                       \n
 *-# Color sensor mode 4 data checksum issue fixed                                            \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v104w_140110
 *
 *-# Test app "Sensors" changed to use "Modes" instead of "Views" in mode change limit        \n
 *-# opINPUT SETUP - IIC third party sensor read/write issue fixed                            \n
 *-# opINPUT READY_IIC implemented                                                            \n
 *-# More documentation about sensor reading (see \ref thirdpartydevicedesign "Third Party Device Design Guidelines ") \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v104v_131205
 *
 *-# Release of version 104u for testing                                                      \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v104u_131205
 *
 *-# Corrected issue when connecting to several devices using bluetooth (c_bt.c)              \n
 *-# opUI_DRAW VALUE bug fixed (negative figures)                                             \n
 *-# opUI_DRAW VIEW_UBIT bug fixed (negative figures)                                         \n
 *-# opINPUT_DEVICE INSERT_TYPE implemented                                                   \n
 *-# opINPUT_DEVICE SET_TYPEMODE implemented                                                  \n
 *-# Corrected issue if trying to search for BT devices and allready connected to 7 devices   \n
 *-# Corrected issue if get remote bluetooth name fails in a bluetooth search                 \n
 *-# Bluetooth connect is not called if create paired device fails                            \n
 *-# Bluetooth connection attempt actively rejected if user presses X on the UI               \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v104t_131108
 *
 *-# Corrected remote bluetooth name issue                                                    \n
 *-# Corrected brick crashing if number of motors diff from 2 in sync'ed motor cmds           \n
 *-# Corrected filetransfer between SD cards in bricks - Folder type issue                    \n
 *-# Corrected filetransfer between SD cards in bricks - Filehandle issue                     \n
 *-# opFILE CLOSE_LOG changed to free up handle when logging in memory                        \n
 *-# SD card back key bug fixed                                                               \n
 *-# ISSUE 2636 - "Brick Program" app - test for attached sensor                              \n
 *-# ISSUE 3226 - opMATH MOD8, MOD16, MOD32 zero bug fixed                                    \n
 *-# ISSUE 3492 - opUI_DRAW LINE and RECT hang bug fixed                                      \n
 *-# ISSUE 3565 - Brick Hang with 3rd party sensor bug fixed                                  \n
 *-# Added TIInit_6.6.15.bts to the filesystem to support 1325A version bluetooth             \n
 *-# Special exception text added to headers: "lmstypes.h", "lms2012.h" and "bytecodes.h"     \n
 *-# opINPUT_DEVICE INSERT_TYPE implemented for test                                                            \n
 *-# IIC 3rd party hang and data instability issue fixed                                                        \n
 *
 *\version lms2012_v104H_130531
 *
 *-# Bluetooth transfer folder error fixed in cComCreateBeginDL                               \n
 *-# First release for AFOL                                                                   \n
 *
 *

```

Original answer:

The LEGO Group has not been publishing changelogs for the EV3 firmware. You should call customer support or write them a letter and encourage them to do so.

I have gathered some information mostly from the (unofficial) LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 Facebook Page and also discussions with other MINDSTORMS hackers. This list is most likely incomplete.

* v1.10E: Add USB support for Microsoft MakeCode (EV3 now appears as USB drive).
* v1.09H/E: Disable telnet service (security issue in response to this German language article on how malware was discovered running on an EV3).
* v1.09D: This is a new "developer" version of the firmware available on the LEGO Education website that has telnet enabled and there is now a password for `root` (see the readme.txt file that comes with the 1.09D firmware).
* v1.08H/E: Add support for the popular Edimax EW-7811UN Wi-Fi dongle.
* v1.07H/E: Add support for new Bluetooth chip shipping with newer EV3s (starting circa July 2015).
* v1.06H/E: Work around checksum bug on EV3 color sensor RGB mode (used by custom block from David Gilday on the MindCuber)
> 8 votes

---
Tags: ev3
---


# Question
Title: What is the special LEGO Movie 1x1 element shown in the Channel 4 documentary 'Inside LEGO at Christmas'?
I recently watched the UK Channel 4 documentary 'Inside LEGO At Christmas' and in it, one of the employees of Bright Bricks showed a tall 1x1 element that he described as a brick that Lego came up with for The Lego Movie set.

It can be viewed on YouTube here @7:17

* Is this element included in any commercially available sets?
* Is it indexed on Bricklink?

I have done several web searches for other references and also searched Bricklink but have been unable to find any other information about it.

# Answer
The Piece of Resistance

can be found in 11 sets

bricklink link
> 6 votes

# Answer
The piece that Syberion linked to in his answer isn't entirely correct. While the Piece of Resistance in the *LEGO Movie* sets is *similar* to the one seen in the movie, the actual piece didn't have the square hole. (That was used in the sets based on the movie so you didn't need to actually glue the piece to the minifigure!)

It doesn't look like a "real" 1x1x2 piece has been used in any sets yet. 1x1x3 ones have, and obviously 1x1x1 ones, but not the in-between size.
> 0 votes

---
Tags: part-identification, the-lego-movie
---


# Question
Title: Dichotomous key for identifying / discovering LEGO pieces?
Is there a dichotomous key available for looking up LEGO pieces by progressively answering information about their characteristics? It doesn't necessarily need to fit the strict definition of a dichotomous key (namely there being only two choices per stage of identification).

For example:

* Does it have studs? **Yes**
* How many sides have studs? **2**
* How many studs are there total? **6**
* What color is the piece? **Gray**

might yield part number 4277927

Additional characteristics such as estimated date of manufacture or whether a piece is counterfeit may be discerned by applying the same method to non-functional features such as the font of the logo.

# Answer
> 1 votes
Closest thing that I know of is the peeron site - you can use google to search only peeron by adding "site:peeron.com" or you can use the peeron website to find the part. Start by looking at the part list for a few sets you have (or see for sale) and then when you get used to the terminology you should know how to search for the unknown part. It lists all sets/years that the part came from, and all colors it is available in, and uses Lego part numbers and set numbers (it ads an extra digit to set numbers that have been reused by Lego)

brickwiki says:

Peeron is a set database with set inventories and an instruction scan repository (PICSL1) run by Dan Boger, with the help of a number of volunteers (Clark Stephens, TWS Garrison and a number of developers).

\[ . . . \]

Peeron is one of the three major sources (with BrickLink and LDraw.org) for nomenclature and classification, it maintains a color list, and assigns (in cooperation with LDraw) names and numbers for parts that haven't yet been named.

---
Tags: part-identification
---


title: Shipping to Turkey

text:
# Question
Title: Shipping to Turkey
I am trying to order different single bricks with Pick a Brick system. It seems there is no shipping options to Turkey. I already picked around 32 Euro pieces but couldn't be able to change the shipping country.

Our distributer doesn't have Pick a Brick. So i am stuck. Any idea how to ship to Turkey? (http://shop.lego.com/en-DE/Pick-A-Brick-ByTheme)

# Answer
I would recommend you look at one of the online third-party LEGO marketplaces. There are two main ones: BrickLink and BrickOwl. Both marketplaces offer individual pieces (both new and used) as well as sets. Added bonus, the sellers on these marketplaces have many more parts in stock than LEGO Pick-A-Brick, including no longer produced bricks. Especially BrickLink can be a little daunting at first use, but start with searching the Catalog and you'll quickly get the hang of it.

For both sites it works best if you create a Wishlist/Wanted List with all the pieces you need, and then start searching for sellers who have most of the items in stock, so you minimize the number of sellers you use (and hence the shipping fee). You can even filter by seller location (so you could get only Turkish sellers - Bricklink currently has 18 stores located in Turkey itself). BrickOwl even has a great "optimizing" routine which helps you get the lowest price across several sellers.
> 4 votes

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Tags: shopping, pick-a-brick
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title: Pick A Brick delivery times

text:
# Question
Title: Pick A Brick delivery times
I am about to order some bricks using the online Pick A Brick service. Unfortunately, its delivery time information is confusing. In the right column of the checkout page, it says:

> Your item will be delivered in up to 5 business days.

However, in the left column, it says:

> Please allow up to 15 business days (Monday through Friday excluding holidays) for delivery time.

So, which one is correct? What's your experience?

# Answer
From the UK, about two weeks. I have used the service maybe seven times and it hasn't been less than a week.
> 3 votes

# Answer
Pick-A-Brick orders are shipped from Denmark so they take longer, and they also need more processing time. In my experience they take 2 weeks to arrive. I'm in the USA. Hope this helps.
> 5 votes

# Answer
The LEGO catalog says that orders in stock will deliver within 3-8 business days and "LEGO® Pick a Brick, please allow an additional 10 business days for processing time." So if you do the math, its really somewhere between 13-18 business days excluding holidays
> 1 votes

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Tags: pick-a-brick
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title: Order Number Problems

text:
# Question
Title: Order Number Problems
I think something is wrong with the email I use and for whatever reason i didn't get the email with the order details after I ordered. I quadruple checked that I got the email right before I typed it in but didn't get the email all the same. I would like to track my order but because I did not get the email I do not have the order number.

# Answer
> 2 votes
**Just to clarify: this forum is manned by Fans of LEGO, not by the LEGO Group themselves.**

That said, LEGO order confirmations sometimes take a little while to arrive (a couple of hours). You can always check your order status online (if you were logged in to shop.lego.com and/or have a VIP account), the US-based Order Status page is here.

Finally, if it's been longer than a day, call LEGO Customer Service. The US number is 1-800-835-4386 (check the LEGO website for your local access number if you're not in the US).

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Tags: shopping
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# Question
Title: How to store a matrix of values and pick out certain elements and compute the difference?
I at the moment am trying to make an EV3 robot which is capable of following a gradient decent method. The idea was to store a discretized function in a 2D matrix, and make several lookups in that 2D matrix where I compute the difference between its position and its neighbor's position. and then make the robot move in the direction with descending gradient.

To do so...

How do I use the EV3 software to:

* Create a Matrix?
* Store values in matrix?
* Make lookups in matrix?
* Subtract those lookups?

This could be way easier in C++, but is there any supported firmware capable of running C or C++ in the same way as with NXC or something like this? Something with some form of documentation?

# Answer
> 2 votes
This application does seem to be pushing the limits of the official software provided by LEGO. If you are interested in C/C++ (or any other programming language), check out http://www.ev3dev.org.

I like to say that ev3dev is not firmware since it runs from a microSD card and is not loaded into the flash memory on the EV3. Nevertheless, it is an alternate operating system for the EV3 with the goal of being able to program in any language that you like. You can find a list of existing programming libraries here.

# Answer
> 0 votes
EV3-G supports single dimensional arrays only. You could write one array that is m times n in length where m is the number of rows, and n is the number of columns. The correct row of the single dimensional array would be (col-1)\*n+row. You would have to write a myBlock to convert 2D index values to 1D index values and vice versa. However, doing matrix manipulations in EV3-G is painful. Using the array block, all you can really do is read at an index, write at an index, append, and calculate array length. This would cover most of your goals (assuming you convert the 2D to a 1D array). Possible, but painful. ev3dev, LeJOS, or RobotC all would be better methods and they support multidimensional arrays.

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Tags: ev3, software, nxc
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title: LEGO G-Scale train?

text:
# Question
Title: LEGO G-Scale train?
I have a 45mm gauge LGB-based G-scale garden railway and want my grandson to have a push-along loco and some rolling stock for it. Can we make this with LEGO? The wheels need to be non-metal and have inner flanges. Apart from the gauge itself, it does not have to be to scale or be highly realistic. At his age, it's the scope for imaginative play with figures and loads that we're after.

# Answer
> 5 votes
The beauty of LEGO is that you can create virtually anything with it. I assume you are aware of the existence of LEGO Trains such as 60052 Cargo Train? The scale of these trains is not directly compatible with LGB's G-scale (the LEGO scale is sometimes referred to as L-Scale or L-Gauge) but many of the train elements can be used for building different scales. More details on the LEGO L-Gauge can be found here(l-gauge.org).

Some of the train elements you want to take a look at are Wheels, Magnetic Couplings and Axles, which form the basis of any train and/or wagon.

You will have to experiment a bit with sizing, e.g. how many bricks wide is G-scale track, and how do flange and thread dimensions of wheels work on G-scale rails. LEGO's assortment of train wheels is limited (only a few sizes), but you might want to check out Big Ben Bricks' Custom Train wheel collection for additional sizes.

You are not the first one to attempt this, though, a quick Google search showed several images and videos of LEGO trains running on G-scale track. Here is one recent video that I found interesting. The author's website (lgtrains.com) has more info on these trains.

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Tags: trains
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# Question
Title: Does the Mindstorms EV3 software run on OS X El Capitan?
El Capitan was released a few days ago, and I want to upgrade. Will there be issues with the software, or will it run nicely on El Capitan?

My Mac: Retina MacBook Pro 13", Early 2015

# Answer
> 4 votes
I had the same error message as Stefan on opening. I fixed the problem by installing Silverlight 5.1.41212.0.

I'm running:

* El Capitan 10.11.4 (15E27e) (beta)
* Late 2015 Retina iMac i7 4GHz

So providing you've got the correct version of Silverlight installed, you should be able to run it.

# Answer
> 6 votes
I've recently upgraded to OS X 10.11 El Capitan (as a matter of fact, I have the exact same model of computer). I've done some basic tests with the EV3 software without running into any issues. I've downloaded programs to the brick using both USB and Bluetooth.

Base on past experience with OS upgrades with both the NXT and EV3 software, the problems have usually been with Bluetooth. The fact that this is working is a good sign.

I have not used the EV3 software extensively yet on OS X 10.11, so there could be some minor issues I don't know about, but at least I can say that it is usable.

# Answer
> 1 votes
The official LEGO.com page says:

> Mac OS 10.6, 10.7 and 10.8 with the latest Service packs

This does not include 10.11, but seeing that another official LEGO.com page says:

> Fixed Bluetooth crashing in various ways on OSX Yosemite (10.10)

it seems probable that LEGO supports their software better than their homepage :)

So while we don't have a definitive answer yet, I think even if there are show-stopper changes in El Capitan, LEGO will patch the EV3 to work flawlessly.

# Answer
> 1 votes
I use EV3 with El Capitan. No issues, though I bought a WiFi dongle as Bluetooth experiences with prior NXT really wasted so much of my time.

# Answer
> 1 votes
I tried to install it newly on el capitan and got an error message that I should contact the software supplier... So for me it did not work

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Tags: mindstorms, ev3, software, compatibility, mac
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# Question
Title: Instructions for LEGO bag dated 2007 bought at a Thrift store
I need the instructions for a LEGO parts bag I purchased at a Thrift store

# Answer
Based on the parts, it looks suspiciously like an internal part bag for 10232 Palace Cinema \- which means there's no specific instructions to make something with just those parts - the whole set of instructions can be found online.

To clarify - a set like Palace Cinema will have a number of "Numbered" bags that correspond to part of the building instructions, and those bags sometimes contain smaller sealed bags of small parts - it looks like this is what you have there.

This is based on the two black doors - these seem to be fairly rare these days and the other parts (especially the 11 new dark red 2x2 tiles) fit nicely with the contents of that set.

Note that the year printed on the bag is the date the bag design was introduced - according to BrickSet the pink circles were first produced in 2008 - and of the 80 sets that it has appeared in, only one of them contains the black doors as well.
> 7 votes

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Tags: instructions
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# Question
Title: Loop doesn't work, always inputs the same condition
I have a loop but always inputs the same condition, please see the picture.

# Answer
> 2 votes
You have the motor power set to 1 and you are waiting for 1 full rotation. If the motor moves at all, it will take a long time to complete one rotation. Most of the loop is spent waiting for the rotation to complete (or if the motor is not moving at all, then the loop never actually loops).

Try using a higher power - at least 10. Also, use less than one rotation, or use time (just a fraction of a second) instead for the duration of the motor block.

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Tags: ev3, ev3-g
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title: Yellow cross-shaped LEGO piece ID

text:
# Question
Title: Yellow cross-shaped LEGO piece ID
I have had this for a while and was wondering what it is.

# Answer
> 5 votes
It is a Propeller 4 Blade 5 Diameter with Hole for Rotor Holder \- used in 71 sets, but only in 5 in the yellow color you have.

It was produced by LEGO until 1994, and would have fit on Plate 2x3 with Helicopter Rotor Holder.

Together they would have made the rotor of a helicopter, such as in 1469-1 Helicopter Polybag.

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: What is this piece and what is its number?
Does anyone know what number piece this is?

# Answer
Looks like it's Support 2 x 4 x 5 Stanchion Inclined 4476a or 4476b.
> 10 votes

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Tags: piece-information, part-identification
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# Question
Title: How to build ar Z6 (TR-8R) riot control baton for 75114 (First Order Stormtrooper)?
Set 75114 has two guns but I would like my stormtrooper to have the iconic melee weapon.

How can I build one?

# Answer
> 4 votes
You could use the Chima sword:

Perhaps with the gun/torch as a handle:

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Tags: star-wars, moc
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title: Torso ID (No hands)

text:
# Question
Title: Torso ID (No hands)
What is the number of the piece and where does it come from?

# Answer
This is a Torso Overalls Blue Pattern (Dungarees) / White Arms / Yellow Hands, which is used in 48 sets and 16 minifigs. It was last produced by LEGO in 2005.

I'd seriously recommend you make yourself familiar with BrickLink's Catalog Search feature and the LEGO naming standards as it helps you get these answers faster in the future, without having to rely on others on this forum to do the searching for you.
> 6 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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title: Sticker Identification

text:
# Question
Title: Sticker Identification
Does anybody know where this sticker is used or the set number it's used in?

# Answer
> 4 votes
This piece is 42023pb005R - Slope, Curved 6 x 1 Inverted with Orange and Yellow Marbled Flames and 'G' Pattern Model Right Side (Sticker) - Set 8897, which is used in only 1 set: 8897 - Jagged Jaws Reef.

But once more, please look at the Catalog Search function in BrickLink and spend some time learning it - this is the third consecutive "What is this piece" question for pieces that are fairly trivial to find. Bricks with a curved end are called "Slope" and are a common type (other common types are "Plate", "Brick", "Tile", "Minifig", "Wheel" etc.). You can also use the search bar at the top of the BrickLink screen, just make sure you switch the Search Scope field to "Catalog Item".

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Tags: part-identification
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title: What is the name/number of this brick

text:
# Question
Title: What is the name/number of this brick
I was wondering what the two grey tile like bricks in the image below are? I wish to order some online, so would appreciate knowing their name.

# Answer
> 7 votes
This is a 3743 - Technic, Gear Rack 1 x 4 and there are 2 times 2 of these in your picture (2 on the left and 2 on the right).

I guess your description is a little vague, because if you are talking about the middle part (the shining light gray pieces), they are actually not bricks/tiles, but the axle end of an NXT motor (the right side of the motor in the below picture).

# Answer
> 2 votes
It's difficult to be certain due to the angle and quality of the image but I think they are these:

Technic, Liftarm 1 x 3 Thick

Item No: 32523

They are/were produced in many colours including both 'light bluish grey' and light grey'.

More details on bricklink

**Edit**

Just realised you you referred to them as 'tile like bricks' so maybe it is this:

Part 3743 Technic, Gear Rack 1 x 4 Bricklink link

It would be a lot easier if you could isolate the elements you are interested in and take better photo

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Tags: technic, part-identification
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# Question
Title: Is there a way to convert a 3D model into a lego sculpture?
After researching this question for a few days, I want to post it here so I can share what I learned in an answer, and hopefully learn some new techniques too.

If anyone has found another way to do this, please share! If anyone has used Legolizer for 3ds Max, an answer explaining that process or that has examples of it being used would be useful too.

# Answer
You can use Brickify for that. You just upload an STL file and it is converted to LEGO bricks. You don't need the 3D printing part and can go ahead to download the building instructions.
> 7 votes

# Answer
I found a few ways to convert a 3D model into a Lego sculpture. The first is a program called Dolphin Brickr. It works very well, as you can see in this image of Yoshi:

The downside to this program is that it only runs on Macs, This runs on both Windows and Macs now and the output format is a series of images, one for each layer. So you can't import it into MLCAD or your favorite Lego building software. I was looking for something that uses the .ldr format.

Another program is LSculpt. This worked okay but I couldn't seem to get great results. I'll been using a 3D model of Nautilus for my examples. Here is a picture of the LSculpt results:

The **black** version was created from **LSculpt** and the **blue** version was creating using my **alternate method**. It is also worth mentioning there is another technique, a 3ds Max script called Legolizer. Unfortunately, I don't have 3ds Max so that wasn't an option for me. I wanted to do this using only open source software on Windows. Here is how you do it:

---

## Step 1 - Scale your 3D model

You need to scale your model down by a factor of `.833`. I used MeshLab and the process that it described in the Dolphin manual.

## Step 2 - Convert a 3D model into a binvox file

This is done using a program called `binvox.exe`. You can read about it and find the download link on this minecraft wiki. All you need to do is to download `binvox.exe` and then copy your 3D model into that folder. Open command prompt, `cd` into that folder, and run a command that looks something like this:

```
binvox nautilus.obj -d 128 -rotz -rotz

```

`nautilus.obj` is the name of my 3D model, `-d 128` specifies the size (128 x 128 x 128 voxels), and `-rotz` and `-rotx` will rotate the model. **You will have to experiment to get the right rotation, or your bricks won't face up at the end.** You might want to start with `-d 32` to speed up the process until you get the orientation right, which you won't find out until the end. The output from this is a file with the name `nautilus.binvox`.

## Step 3 - Install Cygwin (optional if you know what you're doing)

I would recommend installing cygwin for the following steps, since that is what I used, but you don't necessarily need it. You just need a way to run `c++` and `Perl` programs. When you install it you can select packages, make sure you install the package named `perl` and the package named `gcc-g++`.

## Step 4 - Convert the binvox file to a readable txt file using `read_binvox`

Download this program called read\_binvox. Make sure it is saved as `read_binvox.cc`. Then copy your `.binvox` file into the same folder. Open Cygwin and `cd` into that folder. Then run

```
g++ read_binvox.cc -o read_binvox

```

to compile the program. Next, you can run it with

```
read_binvox nautilus.binvox

```

This will create an output file called `voxels.txt`.

## Step 5 - Convert `voxels.txt` into your .ldr file

I wrote a program in `Perl` that will convert the `voxels.txt` into a `.ldr` file. Create a new file named `binvox2ldr.pl` in the same directory as your `voxels.txt` file. File it with the contents from this pastebin.

Then go back to that directory in cygwin and run the command:

```
perl binvox2ldr.pl voxels.txt > nautilus.ldr

```

This may take a while to run, depending on what size you made the sculpture. The program uses a very basic algorithm for combining bricks together. It may have floating bricks, so I wouldn't recommend just using the parts list from that and expecting a secure, perfect model. But I think it could be a good way to start a design for a sculpture. The script could definitely use some more improvements, but it's a basic start.

## Step 6 - Editing and Render

You can use these instructions from ldraw.org installing some tools for editing and rendering the sculpture. I used MLCAD to change the color and then rendered it using POV-RAY. Here's what it looks like:
> 13 votes

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Tags: software, tools
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# Question
Title: What set are these minifigs from? What are their names?
Can anyone tell me what minifigs these are?

# Answer
> 4 votes
These look to be Mega Bloks Dragon figures.

The Vorgan (orc) is from the Krystal Wars era, which introduced the Vorgans and had Vorgans with brown vests. I can't find the set that fellow is in right now, but I found a future set with a look-alike in a blue vest where is name was Gohrgroc. The shield isn't used by the the Vorgan (orc), but is used by the Norvagen (blue armored guys not seen in the OP's picture). The Norvagen and that shield with the dragon head on a blue background are also from the Krystal Wars sets.

Here's a look at one of the sets in that line, with many of the names visible:

I've also found this video which shows most of the Krystal Wars figures, if not all, but unfortunately it's not tied to names or sets. Your Vorgan with the large underbite, as are your golden Draigar with horns up and forward, and the shoulder strap that goes across their torso (upper-left shoulder, to opposite waist, clearly visible buckle).

There's a possibility these figures are all from the Draigar Castle set, but the instructions for that are hard to track down and confirm. Mega Bloks has a very poor list of instructions on their support website (where they don't use the same names as available online, or even the same set numbers in some cases, and many sets appear to be absent).

Here's a link to the relevant instructions part for Draigar Castle. Right now, the host Photobucket is down so the link won't work, but it should in a few hours:

http://s935.photobucket.com/user/bloksforum/media/Instructions/9898/9898-03.jpg

---

For the record, I own a small collection of these figures/toys, that I inherited from my brother (I've never bought a MB toy myself). Unfortunately, I don't have the instructions or boxes/tins they came in, so I can't help narrow down the suspects with my own stock.

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Tags: minifigures, clone-brands
---


title: Motorizing Hobby Train 10183

text:
# Question
Title: Motorizing Hobby Train 10183
What are the PF motors available that will power the Hobby Train 10183?

Moving out from 9v tracks, will the existing 10183 wheels fit any other tracks?

Also, is there a difference between the PF motors used for the Technic models and for the train sets?

Much obliged for your help. This is my entry into Lego trains.

# Answer
The motor used in Hobby Trains is the 9V train motor. This motor is externally identical to the new Power Functions train motor, so you should be able to replace one with the other.

That said, the problem with Power Functions is that where in 9V it was enough to have the train motor mounted on the train, in PF you will also need to provide an IR receiver and a battery pack. You would need to modify each Hobby Trains model to have it house those components and the connecting wires (one of which should go through the floor of the train to the PF Train motor, so you need a hole in the floor). Net, it will require some creativity, and some Hobby Trains models are better suited to this adaptation than others.
> 2 votes

# Answer
As Phil notes, the PF train motor is exactly what you are looking for:

You'll also need one of the PF battery boxes and an IR receiver. You will need to modify the trains themselves to house the extra components and make room for the wires.

In response to your second question, 9V, RC, and PF train track is all functionally identical. The only significant difference is the conductors on the 9V rails.

In regards to the PF system, the Technic motors and train motors use the same electrical connections, but they are physically different shapes.
> 1 votes

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Tags: motor, trains, customization
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# Question
Title: Please help identify Star Wars set - I have some very specific dark grey wings with brown paint
Please see attached pic, I reckon these are part of a Star Wars ship. Can anyone help me identify the set?

# Answer
These pieces are indeed Star Wars related, they are from 7957 - Sith Nightspeeder from 2011.
> 6 votes

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification, star-wars
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# Question
Title: What is the set number for these Star Wars parts?
We lost the majority of my son's Lego collections in a flood. The attached pictures are all we have and need them identified for insurance.

Would appreciate your help identifying the set number.

# Answer
You have (part of) set 5974 - Galactic Enforcer (2009). This set is missing a few parts, as the back end is supposed to be rather symmetrical and there is a separate space ship (black). See the picture below.
> 5 votes

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Tags: set-identification, star-wars
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title: Where are these minifigures from?

text:
# Question
Title: Where are these minifigures from?
In this image there are two army guys guarding:

But where were they bought? I'm curious to know where to get them myself.

Reply to Zhaph's Answer: (I don't have enough reputation.)

I'm well aware the minifigures and weapons are custom made, but I'm more curious where exactly to get the same pieces. I will probably find the weapons on some Brickarms seller (for me: Minifigforlife), but I don't seem to find the same minifigs. Any chance I could get either a seller or these or list of parts with sellers?

# Answer
The minifigures and the guns will be custom made. There are a number of sites that offer custom printed minifigs in military uniforms, and Brick Arms is a good place to start if you're after specific weapons.

The LEGO Group have a policy of not creating "realistic" weapons, although both fantasy and futuristic are acceptable.
> 3 votes

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Tags: customization, minifigure-identification
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title: Help identify large white wheels

text:
# Question
Title: Help identify large white wheels
Have lots of mixed pieces that we bought second hand. We have come across very large white plastic solid wheels, resembles sand buggy wheels, but think they must be space related as they are white. Pieces could be from early 80s and forward.I might be wrong to think they are wheels but they came assembled like this so always thought they were. Love to find out which set they might have come from so we can build something awesome..

# Answer
> 4 votes
What you have there is a 6118 Wheel Hard Plastic Small (22mm D. x 24mm), and this wheel is pretty common, it features in 39 sets, but luckily for you only in 4 sets in the color White. These sets are:

If you count the number of wheels you have, you should be able to deduce which set they came from as each set has a different number of wheels.

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Tags: part-identification, wheel, space
---


title: Advanced set for 5.5 years old

text:
# Question
Title: Advanced set for 5.5 years old
My son had great success building a lot of Lego models, including complex sets, such as the Family house set.
And I want to meet him with an advanced model, that includes some gears and more functional.

I thought about 3 models, all of them are a little old but I really love them and I don't know which one to buy. The models are 5893, 4993 and 5767.

I'll be glad to receive an advice, which set is most recommended, considering my son's age (5.5) and props of each set.

I'm open to new suggestions.

# Answer
I'm going to suggest that unless you're getting these sets at their retail price, don't bother getting any of these for a 5 year old. Instead, just get a current set, such as 31017 Sunset Speedster, which is still available at its regular price. Or check out the line of Speed Champions.

My reasoning is that a small child does not care about the vintage of a set and is not completing a collection, so any particular set is equivalent to any other. The sports car model is one that Lego refreshes every so often and there is almost always one available for sale, and you can usually get it at a discount. But all retired sets increase in price on the secondary market and I'd say you are getting zero value for your extra money if you hand this set to a child. They will love the set but not care at all if it's rare or hard to find.

As for how age-appropriate such a set is, it depends on the child. The Creator sets are fairly easy to build, usually. My 5 year old has little difficulty building them, though he has a fair amount of Lego experience. If your son has already built several models, these sets should be fine, even if the ages say 7 or 8 and up. I find that Lego's age recommendations are too conservative for my household, but YMMV.

Addressing your point about wanting to build with gears, etc. Most Creator models have minimal gears involved. Certainly the sports cars do not have working steering or anything like that. Creator sets almost never feature that sort of functionality except on the largest models. When there are moving parts, they are typically just hinged.

If you want something that features actual gears, steering, etc, you need to peruse the Technic line. Most of that is fairly complex. It's aimed at an older audience and I'd wager your 5 year old isn't ready for it - at least, mine wouldn't be. If Technic is too complicated, you might try one of these:

Fairground Mixer

Ferris Wheel

They are large models, fairly expensive, that feature both brick-built devices and mechanical movements. Both can be motorized by adding a motor (sold separately). Both are large sets that display well, but feature lots of play features. The Mixer, especially, is very cleverly constructed. I'd say both are too advanced for a 5 year old, but with a parent's help, and some patience, they should be possible.
> 6 votes

# Answer
The 4993 seems to be just a static display mode with no gears or functionality apart from the opening hood, doors and roof.

The 5893 in contrast has working steering, suspension, winch, etc. These provide playing and learning possibilities.

The 5671 has some odd colors and a working steering wheel, but nothing more than this.

To sum it up, if I were you, I'd buy the 5893. Disclaimer: I don't own any of these sets, I only saw them online. I might be mistaken about what I wrote.
> 1 votes

# Answer
It's my old question but want to share with "new" lego I found, called **Kluntz Lego**.

The Kluntz Lego is for complex structures, gears, etc.

Here is an example.
> 1 votes

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Tags: sets
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