# Question
Title: Choosing scale for train models: what scale is "L-gauge"?
So, after being a LEGO fan for 40+ years, I'd like to try my luck at building some scale models of train sets (for example, an ICE 2). In planning my build, I ran into some difficulties or doubts determining the proper scale, specifically I was wondering what scale "L-gauge" models typically use.

If you directly relate the LEGO track geometry to a real-life standard gauge track you end up with a scale of 1435mm/37.5mm ~ 1:38.27 - which is somewhat in line with the "1:40" answer to a related question.

Now, per this link, an ICE 2 is 3.07m wide, which would translate to just under 10 studs wide (9.59, to be exact). Alarmingly, this would also mean that each train car model would be over 2 feet long, which is most likely problematic even with third-party R108 or R120 tracks.

On the other hand, when using a smaller scale (e.g., 8 studs wide, roughly 1:48 scale), it becomes basically impossible to create a to-scale interior (e.g., you could only place two seats/minifigs next to each other).

Is there a "standard" scale for LEGO train models or some other best practice to solve this conundrum?

# Answer
> 5 votes
It looks like the best practice is to adjust the proportions to the constraints imposed by the media.

For example, the closest LEGO rendition of a modern high-speed train, the 10233 Horizon Express has cars that are built on a 6x28 chassis piece, which gives a very different width-length ratio than the ICE2 (3.02 m : 26.40 m). And it just works and looks fine, even though the math is completely off the charts.

For other examples, see how LEGO manages to translate the iconic Star Wars vehicles into the Microfighters line, or famous cars into the Speed Champions line. So I'd say it is more than possible to keep the design essence (and thus the recognizability) intact, while adjusting the proportions even to ridiculous ratios, as demanded by other constraints.

The radius of the curved track pieces and the speeds attainable by LEGO trains give completely insane results as well, when viewed as real-world engineering solutions, but in this medium, it is fine. Maybe it necessiatates widening the track gauge a bit compared to real trains (LEGO trains have their wheels almost in line with their sides), or lowering the center of gravity, but even if the physics win over the engineering, it is easy to reassemble the pieces after a crash :)

# Answer
> 6 votes
**TLDR**: Scale for train MOC is a personal preference based on the needs.

Longer version:

There is a lot of personal preferences here. Like, how do you decide if the LEGO track geometry should translate to standard gauge? Why not any other track gauge available in other countries? How do you scale the model if it originally use slightly wider gauge? So there's already some flexibility in how strict you should be considering the scale of your train based on the track gauge.

Next thing is to decide if you want your train to operate within your LEGO city layout or just for the looks? LEGO trains are built in 6-stud wide size. People tend to design their own trains in 6-, 7- and 8-stud width size. They look good in city layouts - not too big and do not cause any serious troubles operating even on LEGO tracks. And somewhat to scale. I've made 48 cm (1.5748 feet) long 8-stud wide scale model of a train loco myself. It could operate on standard LEGO train tracks. And yes, it looks a little ridiculous on curves, but still works. However this scale doesn't let you design detailed interior, so compromises must be made.

Now if you prefer designing your train for the looks and operate it on some train layout (that could be made from LEGO compatible 3rd party elements) only from time to time you can go with whichever scale that fit your needs. It could be wider, longer, so train track geometry is the limit. As you mentioned your initial scaling suggested your train is going to be 2 feet long, which is less than half a foot longer than my model and you are not limiting yourself with just LEGO tracks, there shouldn't be a problem running your model on larger radius 3rd party (LEGO compatible) train tracks.

It is also worth mentioning some people use LEGO tracks as a narrow gauge. In such case train model, is obviously quite wide and it no longer fit into LEGO city (minifigure scale) layout. However there is plenty of space for details.

# Answer
> 2 votes
The new 76405 - Hogwarts Express Collectors Edition breaks from compatibility and goes for a 7 rather than 6 stud gauge, which gives them more room to build out a more accurate scaled carriage with:

> enough space for two minifigures to sit side-by-side inside the passenger compartments and the narrow corridor to pass beside them.

More details, including several images can be found in the Brickset detailed review

# Answer
> 2 votes
One thing with real trains is that the rail spacing is surprisingly narrow for the carriage width - and, as you've found, length.

You'll need to run the wheels on bogies to get round any curves if you want anything like a plausible length, but you'd also need about 100 seats per carriage to fit out the inside, and while you could fit the seats, you still wouldn't fit 4 minifigs (and an aisle) across the carriage. Of course you don't have to put minifigs in at all.

As with all matters of Lego scale, you can't match everything, and you're often better off trying to match the aesthetic at a scale that works for the constraints you have

# Answer
> 1 votes
I'm thinking the Ravenglass & Eskdale railway of narrow 15" = 2 heads of 7•5" each, so like narrow Lego track with 2 studs between as minifigure heads have 1 stud. But then normal 4 studs between is less than normal guage at same scale.

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Tags: trains, tracks, scale
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# Question
Title: What is this 2x1 decorated brick with green screen?
This is not a slope part, just a plain white 2x1 brick with decoration.

# Answer
That's Brick 1 x 2 with TV Screen and 3 Buttons Pattern
> 8 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: How do I identify which minifig is in a blind bag for The Muppets series of figures?
How do I identify which minifig is in a blind bag for The Muppets series of figures?

I would like to know what is the best way to know which minifig is in the bag.

# Answer
I did, I went ahead and purchased a small digital scale, with .01 grams of precision. I weighed the bags and identified them. Here are the results:

Most have unique enough weight. For the ones that are close, you can feel one of the items within the bag.

| Minifigurine Character | Weight (g) | Feel for |
| --- | --- | --- |
| Dr. Bunsen Honeydew | 9.65 |  |
| Kermit the Frog | 9.85 |  |
| Gonzo | 9.96 |  |
| Beaker | 10.05 |  |
| Janice | 10.73 |  |
| Waldorf | 10.88 |  |
| Fozzie Bear | 11.22 | Mic stand |
| Statler | 11.24 | Laptop |
| Swedish Chef | 11.57 |  |
| Miss Piggy | 12.06 |  |
| Rowlf the Dog | 12.55 |  |
| Animal | 14.18 |  |
> 10 votes

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Tags: minifigure-identification, collectable-minifigures
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# Question
Title: Plate perpendicular to bottom of 2x2 round: is this connection legal?
I've played enough with 2x2 round plates and 1-stud-wide plates to know that it's possible to attach a plate underneath a 2x2 plate and perpendicular to it, like so:

The same connection is possible using 2x2 round bricks instead, or using 1-stud-wide tiles.

An observation: each of the 4 wall sections of a 2x2 round brick/plate can flex slightly. This does not happen with the continuous walls in a square brick/plate.

So:

* Is this connection "legal"? (i.e.: Does this connection stress the parts involved?)
* Has this type of connection been used in any official sets?

---

A word of warning: Do not attempt this technique on part 6143 "2x2 round brick *reinforced*": it won't work, and you risk denting your plates (as I just did). Do look for a flat wall section at the bottom of the round plate/brick.

# Answer
It's an illegal brick technique due to you breaking the bricks and it makes the bricks wear away faster and the technique was never in offical Lego sets.
> 0 votes

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Tags: building, connections
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# Question
Title: Sources of minifigures with plain, classical faces
For Reasons™, I am looking for current sets that have minifigures with the plain, classical faces:

However, if I look at the current selection on the Lego website, all the accompanying minifigs have stylized faces. The only currently sold set I have seen so far with plain minifigs is Ikea's BYGGLEK.

Short of hunting for deals for old, retired sets on eBay, are there ways for me to get sets that have plain minifigs?

# Answer
There are several options (moulds) you can choose from:
> 6 votes

# Answer
Adding to the answer provided by Alex, there is also the option to buy this head from the pick-a-brick section on the Lego website.

Specifically, part number 9336 "Minifigure, Head Standard Grin Pattern - Hollow Stud" can be found at https://www.lego.com/pick-and-build/pick-a-brick?filters.i0.key=variants.attributes.designNumber&filters.i0.values.i0=9336
> 6 votes

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Tags: minifigures, shopping
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# Question
Title: Can you identify this mini figure with black Darth Vader-like helmet
I got it in a big box of pieces.

# Answer
> 8 votes
This is NI-L8 Protocol Droid from set 75300-1 Imperial TIE Fighter.

Note that it is similar to (and shares a head with) Death Star Droid but that figure doesn't have the colorful wires in the waist area.

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Tags: minifigure-identification
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# Question
Title: Is there any difference in the power, wheel, and track technology between 2018 trains and 2022 trains?
LEGO came out with 60197 City Passenger Train and 60198 City Cargo Train in 2018. Much more recently they released very similar sets 60337 City Express Passenger Train and 60336 City Freight Train. All four sets have the same "Powered Up" logo on the front and look fairly similar.

Are there any differences in the power, wheel, and track technology between these older sets and the new ones? If so, are their obvious pros and cons of these old versus newer train sets?

# Answer
> 9 votes
Most of essential bits are the same and used in all 4 sets:

The only difference is in wheel used for cars. Instead of using two wheels attached to metal rod (this combination is then mounted together to bogie) TLG switched to wheels that are now attached individually to a different, but similarly looking, bogie.

There was a bit of disappointment and a lot of talks within community about new wheels as they are seen as higher friction option, reducing the performance of (long) trains.

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Tags: motor, trains, powered-up, tracks
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# Question
Title: 1x1 round plate with studs on both sides
I apologize for the poor picture quality, but can anyone identify this piece I found in my collection. It's a 1x1 round plate with studs on both sides. It looks similar to Wheel Center Small with Stub Axles (Pulley Wheel) but it's smaller.

# Answer
> 6 votes
It looks like the double stud part of a 4081b Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Light Attachment - Thick Ring where the 1x1 plate part broke off.

It comes in a couple of metallic colors

Does your part has a break mark?

# Answer
> 3 votes
I don't know the make, but I have one of these and there is no sign of a break mark so seems to have been made like this.

Could possibly be one of these Cobi 1X1 1/3 Duo parts:

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Train level crossing using 2021 road plates
I'm interested in integrating a train level crossing into a city layout using the new road plates, but I've been struggling to figure out the best way to do this. Here's an example level crossing for reference (7936):

The space between the rails is built up using a plate and a tile to make it even with the rails and 3 plates higher than the surface. Ramps are then used to bring cars up to this level. That works well enough, and it can be used with the previous road baseplates if everything is built on a baseplate, but things are trickier with the new road plates:

These are exactly 2 plates tall, which is why I'm struggling to figure out how to best use them for a level crossing. Here's my naive attempt:

That's not terrible, but the rails are one plate higher than the surface of the road, which certainly isn't ideal. I could obviously raise all the roads up by a plate, but that also seems a bit annoying for a large layout given that all of the City sets expect the road plates to be sitting directly on a table.

I've tried using curve slopes such as 71771:

However for the height to work out the front lip of the slope has to be sitting 1/2 plate below the surface of the road, which also doesn't look great:

This seems like a common use case that TLG would have considered, especially given that they'll likely create a level crossing set at some point using this new system. Am I missing an obvious way to make this work? What is the simplest way to create a flush level crossing using the new road plates?

# Answer
> 9 votes
It occurred to me that you could use 8-stud-long tiles, tilted ~3 degrees, resting on plates at different heights.

Side view from a quick LeoCAD mock-up:

Since clipping the tile to plates at different heights might stress the tile, I suggest to place it resting on top of tiles at different heights.

---

Edit: After several iterations, I think the ramp should be better made out of 2x4 tiles, resting on top of tiles at the railtrack side, and free-standing at the roadplate side, like so:

That's trivially built with 1x4 tiles, 4x8 plates and 1x8 plates.

There are variations of this kind of ramp, depending on the parts available. For example, the following uses 15068 2x2 Slope, curved instead of tiles. I'm assuming the slope would help the ramp to slide in place a bit better, plus the 2x2 plates help the ramp to not slide alongside the track:

Note, in the image above, how the tiniest bit of yellow plate is visible to the right of the blue slope - that means the assembly is so slightly over 8 studs long (when tilted), which makes it pretty much impossible to use hinges for the ramp.

A similar anti-slide arrangement can be made roadside. I suggest using 32028 1x2 plate with door rail, on both sides of a 1x10 plate, with tiles on top, like so:

I guess that could be easily replaced with "1x1 plate with teeth".

# Answer
> 4 votes
Since the lips of slope bricks rest half a plate below the two-plate-thick roadplates, a solution might be.... to elevate the whole track by half a plate. This can be done with baseplates:

Of course, this assumes that your train tracks will be elevated by one baseplate all around. But that's OK because we've learned from sets 4539-1 and 10128-1 that it's meant to be done that way, right? *Right*?

And there's the problem of aligning/attaching the baseplate to the roadplate.

Luckily, we can use the SNOT techniques described at https://forum.brickset.com/discussion/26463/plate-versus-baseplate-height-how-to-align-them , and disguise the connector as the support for a barrier:

# Answer
> 4 votes
There's now an "official" answer to this question thanks to the summer 2022 Train Station (60335):

This set includes a level crossing that is built as follows:

This doesn't make use of any novel elements, and the part used to create the ramp up to the tracks is 88930 Slope Brick Curved 2 x 4 x 2/3:

While this is a somewhat different approach than the larger ramps used in my question, the same basic issue is still present with a half-plate high bump in road:

Overall, I think the look works alright. The choice to transition to light gray at the crossing to make it clear that there are different materials in play helps to remove the expectation that there would be a clean and flush interface at that point.

# Answer
> 2 votes
I would try and use part 15068 Slope Curved 2x2 to go from road to track. Have you tried this?

Edit: upon closer inspection, I think this gives the same result as your ramps, just with a shorter slope, so this might not be a useful suggestion.

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Tags: building, trains, city
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# Question
Title: Identify unnumbered bags from 11015 - with pictures
I bought LEGO Classic 11015 set. I have 7 unnumbered bags that came with the set all other numbered bags have been completed so I'm unsure what set they are from.

# Answer
I took a sampling of the most interesting parts visible in your bags, and all are contained in the 11015 set inventory in the correct amounts. Based on this I'd conclude that these simply came with the set, just not in numbered bags. This is further supported by the existence of parts like SKI STICK 3M, W/SHAFT Ø3,2, two of which are clearly visible in your photo, but none is included in any of the official models buildable from the seven numbered bags. Yet they are included in the set inventory, so they must be there for the creative play.
> 2 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: How do I get missing parts for a Cobi set?
I got the 1305 set from Cobi. I am missing 3 or more pieces. I can't complete the model without these pieces:

* 2 normal black 1 cm high, 6 studs long, rectangular (not round edge)
* 1 black rectangular flat 3 studs long, 2 studs wide.

How do I order only these parts?

# Answer
> 3 votes
You can order individual parts using Blocks by Piece.

I think the two parts you describe are 2x6 czarny and 2x3 1/3.

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Tags: clone-brands, replacement-parts
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# Question
Title: EV3 Device Manager ghost on my mac - how to remove?
TLDR: how to remove EV3 software completely from Mac?

A year ago I got a used Mindstorms EV3 set, fired it up and played around with my son who was 8 at the time. I installed a setup where we could write Python scripts to control the robot. But it was too time consuming and maybe my son just didn't get a big spark for robotics, so we stopped using it.

I think I uninstalled the parts that I could, but lately some EV3 manager part has started running itself in the background erroneously, consuming 90% of CPU and heating up the computer. I can stop the process from Activity Monitor. But I struggle to find and remove this program. I have no clue why it fires up randomly!

Any help?

# Answer
> 2 votes
On Mac, the *EV3 Device Manager* program is located at `/Library/EV3 Device Manager`. This directory contains an uninstaller. You can run it from a terminal window like this:

```
/Library/EV3 Device Manager/uninstall.command

```

Note: you will be prompted for your password since the uninstall requires administrative privileges.

---

Background:

The *EV3 Device Manager* is a background service that serves as a communication bridge to allow https://ev3manager.education.lego.com to connect to your EV3, so it is only needed if you want to use that website to do firmware updates.

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Tags: ev3, software, mac
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# Question
Title: Do Duplo train cars with two female ends exist?
Most Duplo train cars have a male and a female connector, such as Duplo Car Base 2 x 6 with Red Wheels with Fake Bolts and Open Hitch End.

Since most tractors, in the widest meaning of cars meant to pull other cars only have a male ending, such as Duplo Car Base 4 x 8 with Four Black Wheels and White Hubs, you can only make Duplo trains which go one way.

Commuter trains in my city have a cab on each side on the train, meaning that when they are at the terminus, the driver just has to move to the far-end cab, and be on his way. My son would like to build such a train, but cannot connect an other tractor at the end of his train, since it is always male - male.

Are you aware of a female - female train car, that would allow such a two-way train? (Or any other way to achieve this!)

# Answer
> 7 votes
I'm not familiar with any train cars like what you describe.

It sounds like you could get this to work by building one of the locomotives backwards on its base.

For example, here's the locomotive assembly from the Cargo Train (10875).

You could build a second "locomotive" by putting the same orange train chassis on top of the regular train car base backwards:

The train could then be pulled (or pushed) by the real locomotive and the other unpowered locomotive could be attached to the opposite end of the train.

That general technique should work for most trains, but you may have to get a little creative if the parts for the locomotive interfere with the connectors on one of the train wagons.

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Tags: trains, duplo
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# Question
Title: can anyone identify these bags of Lego? lots of dark and light grey, dark red
Found these Lego bags but don't the set they belong to. What set are they part of?

# Answer
It looks like two sets.

Top right bag seems to be a Death Star UCS.

Based on

* at least 5 White Technic, Plate 2 x 4 with 3 Holes
* Light Bluish Gray Brick 2 x 2 Corner
* Dark Bluish Gray Technic Reel 3 x 2

Those pieces together seem to only belong to 10188-1 Death Star - UCS

The top left bag seems to have pieces from this, too:

* Dark Bluish Gray Dish 2 x 2 Inverted (Radar)
* Dark Bluish Gray Plate 2 x 2 Corner
* Light Bluish Gray Minifigure, Weapon Lightsaber Hilt Straight
* Light Bluish Gray Technic, Pin Connector Round 2L with Slot (Pin Joiner Round)

The middle left bag seems to have pieces from this, too:

* Light Bluish Gray Bar 6L with Stop Ring
* Dark Bluish Gray Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Bar Handle on Side - Free Ends
* Tan Plate, Round 2 x 2 with Rounded Bottom (Boat Stud)
* Light Bluish Gray Hinge Plate 1 x 2 Locking with 2 Fingers on Side and 9 Teeth
* Red Plate, Round 2 x 2 with Axle Hole

The bottom right bag seems to also have pieces from this set.

The bottom left bag, however seems to be from 76104-1 The Hulkbuster Smash-Up

* Dark Bluish Gray Tile, Modified 2 x 2 Inverted
* Pearl Gold Slope, Curved 2 x 2 x 2/3 with Two Studs and Curved Sides
* Dark Bluish Gray Technic, Brick Modified 2 x 2 with Ball Socket and Axle Hole - Straight Forks with Round Ends and Open Sides

These 3 together only occur in 2 sets, and only 1 of them has all that Dark Red.
> 1 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: What sets do these go to? Large grey plates and Technic and giant grey dish
Please, what sets do these go to? Can anyone identify these parts?

# Answer
> 3 votes
Looking at the bottom right bag, it's also the Death Star

Based on

* Dark Bluish Gray Plate, Modified 8 x 8 with Grille and Hole in Center
* Light Bluish Gray Cone 3 x 3 x 2

These two only appear together in

10188-1 Death Star - UCS

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: What do the Blue Lines in Lego 42145 (Airbus H175) step 34 mean
In Step 34 there are three dotted blue lines shown on the assembled piece. I have thoroughly examined the build so far and am pretty certain it is right but I cannot figure out what the dotted blue lines are trying to tell me.

# Answer
This indicates that you have to align the parts as shown in the step. In this case the white and the gray half beams share the same axle and you have to make sure they are aligned properly otherwise the mechanism doesn't work
> 5 votes

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Tags: technic, instructions
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# Question
Title: Lego Boost: how can I gain access to all the programming blocks?
I've just started playing with Lego Boost. Currently I only have very few programming blocks available in the Android app. According to this, I should be able to unlock all blocks by pressing the symbol with the three bricks. But this symbol doesn't exist in my version of the app.

Does anyone know how to unlock all the blocks? Or can anyone recommend using an older version of the app that does allow you to unlock all the blocks?

# Answer
> 3 votes
Based on the link provided by @RSchulz, this is my current understanding of programming blocks availability in the Lego Boost app:

There are two different types of canvas areas in which you can create projects: the Coding Canvas which you can reach by tapping on the big red toolbox that is in each robot submenu, and the Creative Canvas, which can be reached from the main menu by tapping on the open window.

The former has different blocks for each robot, and gets blocks added every time you complete one of the predefined tasks.

The latter has many advanced blocks but is missing robot-specific blocks that are in the other canvases.

There is no canvas that makes all existing blocks available.

# Answer
> 1 votes
If memory serves, and according to this review on Tom's Guide, "As you navigate through the Boost program, you need to complete the simplest levels within each robot section before you can unlock the more complicated ones."

So perhaps you just need to keep using it? Or have you unlocked everything your version of the app has available?

# Answer
> 1 votes
To unlock any level in Boost app: press and hold the padlock. It will open after 5 seconds. Have fun!

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Tags: boost
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# Question
Title: Identify these bags: mostly grey and black
No luck identifying what set these belong to. Can anyone help?

# Answer
Based on a search for sets containing 12x6 wings in light gray and 4x4 round plates in black, this can be identified as part of UCS Death Star, either set 10188-1 from 2008 or set 75159-1 from 2016:

The inventory for the set fits most of the bags in your photograph - parts like the 8x8 black tile, or the 10x10 light gray radar dish, 8x8 grille plate, or the 3x1 technic beam can be seen in both.

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The bag on the lower left, however, is from a different set. Based on the 2x2 corner plates in tan, 1x4 inverted curved slope in light grey and 1x6 plate in dark tan, a search points to two sets: either 75151-1 Clone Turbo Tank or 75292 The Razor Crest.
> 2 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: I picked up these bags of Lego - mostly greys and black
I picked up these bags of legos at a garage sale but don't know what the set is they belong to. Can you help me with identifying what set they belong to?

# Answer
> 1 votes
The top right bag has a rare windscreen and a half-cylinder. In those colors, they still only show up in 10188-1 Death Star - UCS.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Can you identify this egg shaped pedestal
Can you identify this white egg shaped pedestal? I've searched Bricklink for `egg` and `pedestal` and couldn't find it.

# Answer
> 8 votes
You're looking at part 24946 "Egg with small pin hole".

The bottom of the egg is hollow and accepts a stud, so your "pedestal" is nothing but a 1x1 plate.

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: What will LEGO do when all the crude oil on earth is used?
When crude is no longer available (which is in 53.3 years) what will LEGO do, since oil is needed in order to make plastic? Is there a plastic alternative, or another type of material that is strong and durable like ABS plastic?

# Answer
They're working on it! Should be ready in 15 years.

http://www.nbcnews.com/science/environment/no-more-plastic-legos-company-searches-sustainable-material-n379976
> 6 votes

# Answer
Hmmm... would have to be something relatively light, slightly flexible but also mostly rigid, preferably waterproof/buoyant, easy to mold, and cheap... perhaps some future form of carbon fiber? Or perhaps some organic material that comes from animals, and so is infinitely sustainable...
> 0 votes

# Answer
Our estimated time to run out of crude oil in roughly 500 years. As timeless of a product as LEGO is, I think that playing with them in 500 years will be like playing with rag dolls. And those were more like 350 years ago. After that, boys had guns instead, and girls were learning more productive uses of their time than running around with rags sewn around a walnut and giving them names.

And besides, we probably won't hit that 500 year official estimate, because when something is becoming scarce, you plug your car into a wall instead, and make your coffee cups out of corn. But if we do just chug along and then all the oil just disappears at the 500-year mark, do you really think that plastic won't have been replaced?

Wood was a big deal. Then it was flint/obsidian. Then copper, tin, bronze, iron, steel, plastic, polymer...

I think we'll have either moved on from LEGO or moved on from ABS plastics in 500 years.
> 0 votes

# Answer
Oil won't run out in 46 years' time, it will just need more energy to extract it than it can be got from it. Lego can still afford the small amount required for each brick even then. Guess perfected re-cycling by then, all plastic returned to maker to make the same things again, which means Lego won't get much.
> 0 votes

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Tags: manufacturing, plastics
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# Question
Title: Why do older bricks have greater clutch power?
I have some pre-2000 (rough date to split the collection to old/new) System and Technic sets that are from different sources: some are from my childhood, while others have been acquired in "used" as well as "new" condition. They share a common property compared to newer sets - brick clutch power in older sets is a lot stronger. And this is something of a common observation in AFOL community.

Take Technic 8880 set for example. You can feel greater power is required to assemble and take apart Technic bricks compared to what would modern same parts needed. They are not damaged or bent, and still look the same as new part. I've also noticed, when handling the assembled model, you can hear many connection points squeak, which isn't a case with modern sets.

It is known TLG made a change from pre-colored plastic pellets to "base + colored dye" used in production these days. Newer bricks have slightly different properties too, like they doesn't yellow as much as old ones. So obviously, some changes were made to plastic formula, but it is still ABS plastic (question is about opaque colored bricks).

So I wish to understand what's the reason behind this.

* Was the clutch power always like that for bricks of that era?
* Is it because of chemical nature where some elements within ABS plastic mixture cause clutch power to change?
* Maybe some physical nature like temperature or humidity causing plastic to degrade/shrink over time?

Ideally I would like to see answers with facts, but keeping in mind TLG may be good at keeping their secrets I'm open to all the answers with some sort of proof of the statement.

# Answer
> 9 votes
This is a partial answer (or theory).
The moulds for most of the basic bricks have been changed over the years to use less plastic while (hopefully) retaining clutch.

2 x N bricks were given thinner walls with 'notches' for the studs. This may have slightly weakened clutch power.

1 x N bricks (and some plates) were given holes through the bottom tubes and had some supporting walls removed. Not sure how this might've affected clutch power though.

*Photos taken from here.*

# Answer
> 3 votes
I may found a hint onto what's going on with old elements made of ABS on sister website - Chemistry.SE. That question discuss other problem with ABS plastic - brittleness, however answer provide some interesting facts:

> The original ABS substance is a copolymer made of acrylonitrile, butadiene and styrene. It is rather hard and brittle. To make it softer, some proportion of a plasticizer has to be added when it's hot and malleable. In the last century, the plasticizer was in general dinonylphthalate. It works well, but it is a bit volatile. So after a couple of years, the plasticizer gets evaporated, and the polymer becomes brittle again. This "illness" can only be cured by remelting the plastic and adding some new dinonylphthalate. Today better plasticizers have been discovered that are not so volatile.

The "old parts" I had in mind are from early 90's or so, which fits the description. It also makes sense that ABS becomes less plastic when it looses its plasticizer, thus no longer being flexible enough to adjust to tiny deformations during assembly. This results in, say antistuds, no longer adjusting to studs once attached and now being tiny bit smaller causing greater clutch power.

# Answer
> -1 votes
New bricks (having cross support) are lighter, 2•25 grammes instead of 2•68 (from my own weighing). Fits to older Lego that don't hold together well better, but new bricks not hold to 1990's as well as those of then to their top. Must be changing sizes? The ribs inside squash? Also the yellow is a different shade, can shine a light through, & the new ones light up, so there is a difference.

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Tags: lego-group, plastics, system
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# Question
Title: How to differentiate Cellulose acetate vs ABS LEGO bricks?
If one had a large tub of old LEGO brick, with some pieces going back to the 1950s, but all mixed together, are there any distinguishing features or appearance to the 1950s cellulose acetate bricks compared to the newer ABS plastic? Do the plastics look different somehow? Or would you just have to look for other features like lack of studs, flat bottoms on 1x1 round pieces, etc?

# Answer
LEGO switched from cellulose acetate (CA) plastic to ABS plastic in 1963. They continued to distribute CA pieces in sets until their existing supply was exhausted, so during the transition beginning in 1963 both types of pieces were sold in sets. In North America, LEGO pieces were manufactured beginning in 1961 under license by Samsonite, which continued to distribute CA pieces mixed in sets until about 1970.

Distinguishing CA from ABS pieces based on intrinsic criteria is something of an art.

The first thing to look for is warping. CA plastic is much more prone to warp than ABS, which is perhaps the main reason the switch was made. If you find an old piece that is warped, odds are it is CA. You can check for warping by placing a piece on a flat surface and checking for any "wobble." Another good method is to build a simple brick wall with the pieces and look for gaps or poor connections.

Generally CA plastic is much shinier than ABS plastic when it is in good condition. CA pieces will lose the shine with wear, so this is not always possible to see.

There are also some tell-tale clues in the colors.

* Red CA pieces have more orange than the ABS version.
* Yellow CA pieces are not as bright as ABS pieces.
* Blue CA pieces are a brighter shade than the ABS version.
* Black, white, gray and clear CA pieces are harder to differentiate. Transparent CA bricks can be somewhat brownish, while later transparent bricks, made from polycarbonate, can have a bluish cast.
* Green CA bricks are very scarce, but some green plates are CA.
> 7 votes

# Answer
As 62Bricks has said, this can be an art.

Based on my experience (in the UK):

* CA bricks tend to have less clutch (stickiness to other bricks) than ABS bricks. I'm not sure if this is because they are more prone to wear, because they tend to warp or just because they're old and worn out. Nevertheless, some of my CA bricks are so non-grippy that they're all but useless.
* Due to their age, CA bricks have older logos and are made using older moulds. For this reason, they typically have an older LEGO font on the studs, for example.
* CA bricks are more translucent than old ABS bricks. (Although recent ABS bricks can be somewhat translucent, too).
* Many parts have only been produced in the post-CA era, so will only exist in ABS. Similarly, some older parts have never been produced in ABS, so will only exist in CA.
> 4 votes

# Answer
To sort ABS bricks from CA bricks can sometimes be difficult. What helps is they SOUND differently. An ABS brick emits a higher pitched sound when dropped than a CA brick which sounds more like a "thud". So if you are not sure, drop the brick and the sound will tell you what it is.
> 2 votes

# Answer
The blue looks dull, other ways to sort are: No pips & don't hold together well are old so CA. End pips & flowrib & 'pat. pend.' maybe CA or ABS. Stud pips instead & no flowrib again are ABS, now made with cross support on 2×3 & 2×4 as well as on the bigger bricks. As for ×1's, no pillars old, then pillars, then full depth cross support, then back to as before but now on all pillars.

So sort into 4 types; no pip (little mark on end where mould filled, or middle 2 letters on 1 stud of 'LEGO' faulty), with end pips, with stud pips, & stud pips + cross support for 2×3 & 2×4.

Looks like a hypocritical question, so not matter where you are. Before 1958 no tubes.
> 1 votes

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Tags: plastics, cellulose-acetate
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# Question
Title: Identification of LEGO set ... probably star wars ship? dark grey, black, transparent red, all angular
I got 20 kg of LEGO bricks from family friend.

I found a lot of original sets, but these are still unknown.

# Answer
> 5 votes
Based on

* Dark Bluish Gray Wedge, Plate 3 x 6 Cut Corners
* Trans-Red Plate 1 x 2
* Black Plate, Round 2 x 2 with Rounded Bottom (Boat Stud)
* Black Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Clip on End (Horizontal Grip)

BrickLink only shows 1 set that has all of these

75104-1 Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle

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Tags: set-identification, star-wars
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# Question
Title: Does anyone know what is this LEGO Mursten set?
I'm having a hard time identifying what set this is. I want to sell it but I don't know how to name it.

# Answer
It's apparently LEGO Mursten 700/6 Gift Package, specifically the first variant from 1953-1954.

> Early versions of this set from 1953 through 1954 had only automatic binding bricks type windows and doors without glass. In 1954 they were replaced by tall classic windows and doors with glass. From 1956 to 1965, the set had only the classic type of windows and doors.

It appears it is listed as 700.6-1 Gift Package (Lego Mursten) on BrickLink, however the inventory appears to be of later versions of the set with newer windows.

Figuring out what it might be worth is likely going to be very difficult. There aren't may similar sets listed or sold on BrickLink. What you have appears to be fairly rare, but it may be the kind of rare that nobody really knows about to look for and buy.
> 7 votes

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Tags: set-identification, vintage
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# Question
Title: Can you identify this purple torso (looks like a bathrobe)
I searched Bricklink for bathrobe and dark turquoise/magenta torso but couldn't find it. Can anyone identify this?

# Answer
> 7 votes
It's Dumbledore's torso, from 2001-2002 (in the ancient **Purple** color). The BrickLink descriptions for the torso and legs assembly don't mention "sash" or "robe" or anything useful - just "Dumbledore pattern".

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: What set are these 3 Lego bags from? Lots of white and tan
My nephew purchased this Lego set at a thrift store, we need your help identifying what set it is. Thanks for your help!

# Answer
The top bag is from 41711-1 Emma's Art School.

Based on

* White Hinge Plate 1 x 4 Swivel (2429 / 2430)
* Sand Green Plate 1 x 10

The second bag looks like it could be from the same set based on a few pieces I looked at.

The last bag, however, already has things built, so is almost definitely not sealed. It might be a mix, it might be everything from the other bags, there's no practical way I know of to be sure. The White 6 x 12 plate is in that set, at least. And the mini-doll with the hoodie looks like Felix. And the built part on the left, with the yellow circular pieces, seems to be in the picture near the bicycle.
> 3 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Is Robot Inventor 51515 future proof?

text:
# Question
Title: Is Robot Inventor 51515 future proof?
I need to buy one of Spike Prime or Robot Inventor 51515, but torn between the two choices. The latter is discontinued unfortunately, but is better bang for the buck with more lego pieces.

Robot Inventor will not provide firmware updates soon. Given this situation and I buy the Robot Inventor 51515, will I be able to install new Spike Prime firmware on the Robot Inventor hub to get new goodies?

Will I be able to switch to Spike Prime firmware and software and continue to use the Robot Inventor lego pieces?

Will I ever need to buy Spike Prime Hub along its motors and sensors because the Robot Inventor hub won't be compatible with new Spike Prime firmware or software?

Also planning to use this for First Lego League for the next few years. I am also hoping they won't close the gate for Robot Inventor in the competitions in future years.

The safe bet is to buy Spike Prime, but if there is some assurance of future compatibility, I would be inclined to buy the Robot Inventor for its better value. Please guide. Thank you!

# Answer
LEGO has announced that Mindstorms, the long-running robotics range, will be discontinued at the end of 2022. An official statement follows:

"Since its launch in September 1998, LEGO Mindstorms has been one of the core ‘Build & Code’ experiences in the company’s portfolio, carrying with it significant brand equity and becoming a stand-out experience for the early days of consumer robotics and leading to current Build & Code experiences such as SPIKE Prime, from LEGO Education’s LEGO Learning System.

"However, now having a number of priorities in LEGO Education and other Build & Code experiences, we have decided to focus our resources and future plans by redirecting our Mindstorms Robot Inventor team and their expertise into different areas of the business.

"This means the physical Mindstorms Robot Inventor product (51515) and its related elements (88016 and 88018) are to exit our portfolio from the end of 2022, whilst digital platforms – such as the LEGO Mindstorms Robot Inventor App – will remain live until at least the end of 2024.

"We still have strong belief in the Build & Code proposition and will continue to support it through platforms such as SPIKE Prime, and we are continuing to hold on to the trademark for the Mindstorms brand and assessing our future plans together with LEGO Education."
> -3 votes

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Tags: technic, mindstorms, spike-prime, robot-inventor
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# Question
Title: LEGO Duplo cargo train - traction problem on bridge
I bought my son a 10875 cargo train. The train is great for playing, but I have a problem with crossing the bridge. I saw that this is common problem with 10875 and 10874 LEGO Duplo trains, so I would like to ask if there is any solution to improve traction. I regularly clean the train and wagons, but it still happens that the axle slips from the wheel when I have to cross the bridge. Did this option of adding rubber to the wheels improve traction?

I've tried changing the batteries.

Edit to add:

I don't think it's the pinion on the motor. I checked and cleaned all the gears and there is no damage to anything. I just didn't know how to remove and disassemble the rear wheels in order to check the part between the axle and the wheels, but I saw in other posts that when it breaks, the wheels should be free to spin.

It seems to me that they designed the wheels to slip badly. I would try to somehow improve that part for better traction between the axle and the wheels.

The train starts to climb the bridge piece and you can see that it has power, but it happens that you hear a screeching sound, and then the train stops, at that moment the wheel does not slip between the rail and the wheel, but just between the axle and the wheel.

That piece is used for slipping and was installed probably for the safety of small kids and children, but it lacks traction to cross the bridge track. If it was completely fixed, it would probably damage the tracks if the train gets stuck somewhere.

I think it slips on this part of the picture. It is between the wheel and the drive axle.

We have two bridges in the set, so that's quite a problem.

# Answer
> 2 votes
In a very similar question the following alternatives have been suggested:

* Use non-rechargeable batteries due to their higher voltage and thus power
* Replace the pinion with a metal one

Your idea of using a rubber band is not mentioned, but can be useful in one specific scenario - if the wheels are slipping on the tracks. In your question you write that "the axle slips from the wheel" - is it really so though? If so, then the clutch between the axle and the wheel needs to be improved, for example by coating the end of the axle with cling wrap or nail polish to slightly increase its diameter or just straight away gluing it to the wheel itself.

But if the wheels are slipping on the tracks, you should indeed try the "rubber band around the wheel" idea, or some variation of it - e.g. duct tape, which similarly increases the traction but doesn't increase the wheel diameter too much (which would make the climbing more difficult by requiring more power from the motor).

In the last scenario, if the motor is stalled when going upwards with the wheels and the axle standing still due to insufficient power you still have a few possibilities:

* You could try using stronger batteries (with more voltage)
* You could experiment with changing the slope of the track (perhaps by slanting the whole track, or adding some padding under the lower sections to reduce the angle of incline)
* You could remove some weight from the engine or the attached cars
* You could add another engine and use both simultaneously

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Tags: trains, duplo
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# Question
Title: What's the easiest way to remove the license plate on the Time Machine?
I have the 10300 Back to the Future Time Machine. I'm assembling it for the first time, Following the directions. and I'm at the end where they're allowing me to pick which of the three I want to install. I started down for the first movie, and it's asking me to put in the license plate, into the frame. (The license plate is piece number 60602. The frame is item number 60593.)

I'm a little hesitant to put it in, because I'm not sure how I could remove it. The license plate frame snapped in.

So now there isn't a good way to remove the license plate holder.

What are my options for removing the license plate? I only can think of one: Just start removing pieces from the bumper until I can access the back of the license plate frame, to push the frame out, or plate itself.

Any other recommendations?

# Answer
The way I would approach it, is to start by lifting off the two big black "exhausts" (with the cooling fins) at the back of the vehicle. These were installed in steps 292 and 302 resp. :

That should give you access to the back of the license plate holder. Via the gaps on either side of the blue sloped bricks, you should be able to push out the license plate holder from the back (a finger might not fit, so a thinner tool might be needed). An earlier construction state shows the gap more clearly from a different angle :

You can just about see one of the two balls which the license plate holder sockets slot onto.

To make access easier, you can additionally lift off the plate installed in step 203 :

Once the license plate holder is out, you can simply push the license plate out from the back (again with a thin tool - like eg. a brick separator).

This video by 2bricks demonstrates this procedure, but with a twist. They've adapted the license plate holder slightly to make removal much more convenient. If you intend to swap license plates regularly, that might be an option for you.
> 5 votes

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Tags: disassembly, window
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# Question
Title: Would this be a Star Wars ship? It's full of greys, has round bits on the sides, and a trap door on top
I cannot find which set this is.

# Answer
> 5 votes
Based on

* Dark Bluish Gray Slope, Curved 4 x 1 x 2/3 Double
* Light Bluish Gray Plate, Modified 6 x 8 Trap Door Frame Horizontal (Long Pin Holders)

It looks like 75152-1 Imperial Assault Hovertank

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Tags: set-identification, star-wars
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# Question
Title: I was given a Lego set bag with no box or instructions - mostly blacks, whites, greys, browns
I was given a bag of a Lego set with no box or instructions and my kid wants to build it. The bag number is 5, from 2017. QR code and picture of pieces attached.

# Answer
> 13 votes
Based on

* Pearl Gold Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Tooth Vertical
* Black Wedge, Plate A-Shape with 2 Rows of 4 Studs
* Dark Bluish Gray Wedge, Plate 3 x 3 Cut Corner

71719-1 Zane's Mino Creature

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Falcon Shield Attachment

text:
# Question
Title: Falcon Shield Attachment
If I want to attach the Falcon shield to a wall, what kind of attachment do I need? I suspect I need a horizontal clip but I'm not sure.

# Answer
a horizontal clip won't work because on the back the shield has both a vertical and a horizontal bar and the horizontal one will be in the way. The way Lego uses to attach this kind of shields to a wall is to use a Brick, Modified 1 x 1 with Stud on Side and put the horizontal bar of the shield into the hole of the previously mentioned brick.
> 3 votes

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Tags: piece-information, building, connections
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# Question
Title: Impact of Mindstorms sets being discontinued?
I was given some Mindstorms sets a while ago and I'm waiting for my kids to grow up so they can use them. Does the recent announcement of their end mean it will brick (pun intended) the kit? Will the software parts still be available for download?

NOTE: I've never used Mindstorms yet, so I'm not sure what it involves.

Side question: are they being replaced by something else?

# Answer
Your Mindstorms kits will work as well as they ever did, as long as you don't upgrade your computer to something incompatible. This happened before with the Serial IR base.

The software is so common now that it seems unlikely you'd ever not be able to find a download, likely from Lego themselves.

I've read that FIRST Lego League had effectively already moved to Spike Prime, but I can not yet spot any official statement to that effect.
> 2 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, software
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# Question
Title: How to overcome a roller coaster track gap of a length of 1 or 2?
I'm creating a roller coaster MOC with a looping based on the Creater Expert set #10261. All track pieces have a length of 8 or 16. However due to my looping I have an offset of 6. To reconnect my track with the starting point I therefore have a gap of 2 somewhere.

I played a bit and created a construction that might work (at least with 3 or more vehicles):

But I'm still not happy with this solution.

I'm wondering what might be the best way to overcome this gap? Does there probably already exist any brick that can be used?

**Update:**

The Plate, Modified 1x2 with Bar Handles does not work, for the vehicles get stuck on the studs. However the tip with the bar was good! I found the Pneumatic T Piece First Version (T Bar). Together with a Hinge Brick 1 x 2 Base and Top this might work:

However I do not own the Pneumatic T Piece First Version (T Bar) and cannot test it. I wonder if the hinges will not "hinge without permission"?

# Answer
> 14 votes
Here's what I came up with:

The key element I used is the hose nozzle (60849):

I opted not to use hinges to try to create as rigid of a connection as I could. Here's the build:

This seemed to work fine in the small amount of testing I did, but it does require a bit of careful adjusting to get everything aligned properly initially.

# Answer
> 10 votes
Thanks for all your contributions that helped me a lot and gave me very good pointers. Here is my final solution I will use:

I'll use Pneumatic T Piece First Version (T Bar) on Hinge Bricks 1 x 2 Base and Top. To avoid unintended "hinging" of the hinge bricks I put a plate 1 x 2 and a tile 1 x 2 beside them and a Hinge Plate 1 x 2 with 3 Fingers On Side on top. I found a similar brick to the Pneumatic T Piece and that worked well.

And a detail view.

# Answer
> 6 votes
Roller-coaster tracks are using rails in common LEGO measurement of 3.18mm. Also referred as *bar*. There are plenty of other elements having bars of this size. I don't have exact solution, but you could give a try with either of two types of Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Bar Handles. These have 2 studs long bars, so would fit in your gap.

# Answer
> 0 votes
Here is one solution by Masao Hidaka https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fwg5YFPZ6xw using the plate, modified 1x2 with bar handles. He shows 4 ways to use this part.

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Tags: tracks
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# Question
Title: Mystery Bag of Blue and Green Lego pieces
Can you help with identifying this bag of Lego pieces?

Thank you!

# Answer
> 2 votes
Based on

* Lime Plate 2 x 3
* Blue Plate 2 x 10

This is also from 11021-1 90 Years of Play

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Does anyone know what brick this is? Looks like half a cylinder
Red, LEGO Technic, cylinder shape and both sides slope inwards, at different gradients.

# Answer
That is Vehicle, Tipper Drum 3 x 6 x 10 Half with 4 Pin Holes. Red colored piece was used in just single set \- Neptune Carrier (8075):
> 13 votes

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Tags: part-identification, technic
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# Question
Title: Does anyone know what set these Mega Bloks grey parts are from?
My son bought some loose Mega Bloks in the UK and we are trying to identify what sets these parts could be from.

# Answer
> 1 votes
The part with the suctioncup and the cannon part are from Skylanders Giants

Battle portals

Zeppelin Airship Assault

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Tags: set-identification, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: Can you identify this 1x1 red hemisphere?
Can you identify this red 1x1 hemisphere. It has a cross inside so it looks like it's made to fit on the end of an axle. 1x2 masonry brick added for sizing reference.

# Answer
Looks like a “VOODOO BALL Ø10,2” -

Element ID: 4290714 Design ID: 32474

Notable used in the recent LEGO Christmas wreath set to represent holly berries.
> 5 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: What is the length of this axle? like 5L
What is the axle length of the axle circled in red like 5L

# Answer
> 6 votes
Looks like a 3L axle to me.

It's the same length as the blue pin next to it which is also 3L. The 3L axle also typically comes in medium grey.

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Tags: part-identification, technic
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title: What is the axle length of this?

text:
# Question
Title: What is the axle length of this?
What are the lengths of the bottom axles on this picture? Like 5L

# Answer
> 2 votes
It's running through 2 33299 Technic Crank pieces and is as wide as the pins of 2 crank pieces side-by-side.

That would make it a 4L axle which typically are black.

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Tags: part-identification, technic
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title: Why aren't LEGO bricks cubic?

text:
# Question
Title: Why aren't LEGO bricks cubic?
The height of the 1x1x1 LEGO brick is 6/5 times its width. Is there any particular reason for these proportions? And especially why not making a cubic brick (it would have made SNOT building easier)?

# Answer
In the 60s, Lego did produce a separate system for architectural modelling called Modulex which used a 1:1 ratio 5mm cube as its basic brick. It wasn't successful and was discontinued in the late 60s.

I believe the 6:5 was chosen so that studs could fit into the geometry. Related: why the plate is 1/3 of the brick's height. By adding two plates to the height of the brick vertically you can now match the centres of two horizontal units (6+2+2):(5+5)
> 26 votes

# Answer
Thinking Lego started with 2×4 bricks of 1.25 inches. As they made model tractors not from bricks, they made the height of bricks to be equal to the difference between the small and large wheels' centres to build tractors. So (√10 - √2) ÷ 2, but needed to add the size of a stud. Or could just be that 2×4 studs fit the size of a large wheel. In fact 2×4 fits large wheel, but 2×2 overlaps the tyre on small wheel. Slope, 1:1, 100%, 45°, but they have a vertical edge. Guess that = 1/16" & needed to take studs underneath, but not as much as a slimbrick as sloping up from it.

Plates need enough height for studs underneath.

I have some bricks (not compatible with Lego) whose height equals the width of one stud pieces, and whose height is equal to that of 2 plates. I guess a 1/2 Lego plate wouldn't look right for a flat roof, which is their main use?
> 0 votes

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Tags: piece-information, history
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# Question
Title: Salt Lake City Temple : side tower windows
I've been challenged to build the Salt Lake City LDS Temple. I've made some progress on the main wall, but the side towers are a bit difficult. Can I get some tips on how to make the dark slit in the middle and the decorative piece above each window?

Here's a picture of what I'm trying to build:

Here's what I've done so far (just imagine it all in gray)

# Answer
> 7 votes
First off, I'm gonna suggest you pop the columns out and use octogonal 2x2 bricks for the tower columns. Enhancing these details is an easy way to convey the architecture of the building:

For the slit, I'll propose a SNOT assembly with vertical plates. There are several ways to achieve this, but since I can see some 1x1 plates with thick ring, here's a possible assembly (including a jumper plate):

The assembly rests one brick below the window baseline, and the jumper plate makes it possible to align it properly. You'll need some internal scaffolding, though.

Here's a view from the back to illustrate this alignment:

If you prefer the slit to be dark instead of see-thru, you can use a 1x3 black plate.

And, of course, remember that this is not the only way of building a SNOT assembly for the slit - I'm sure you can make alternative arrangements that should be easy to hide inside the tower.

# Answer
> 4 votes
I'm glad you've found an acceptable solution already. As IvanSanchez points our there are multiple ways to build such a solution.

To me the slits seem to resemble the narrow windows for firing arrows in the current (as of November 2022) Lion King's castle set, so I looked at how those were constructed.

Reading the instruction (which can be found here on the LEGO website), the first time one of these slit windows is built is in steps 77-79, and consists of two tiles (e.g. FLAT TILE 1x3, Design ID: 63864), oriented vertically on either side of the window; each supported by "BRICK 1X1X1 2/3, W/ VERT. KNOBS" (Design ID: 32952).

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Tags: building
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title: Identifying Vintage LEGO Instructions

text:
# Question
Title: Identifying Vintage LEGO Instructions
I bought a box of old LEGO from the charity shop and the instruction booklet is missing the front page so, I’m struggling to find out information on it and how old it is! Can anyone help?!

# Answer
These are instructions from "*LEGO Books - Idea Book #1* or 221", that was released in 1973.

YouTuber *BrickTsar* uploaded his entire childhood book *HERE*.

Similar to the LEGO Idea books I had as a kid in the late 80's, these types of books were made with multiple sets in mind.

So, there isn't a focus on one specific set. The focus was you nagging your parents on what was vital for your next birthday.
> 15 votes

# Answer
The big red wheel on the blue tractor was included in sets 1963-1975: Wheel Old with 12 Studs. There are only a twenty sets the big wheel appeared in, so you can look through the page linked above and see which set is the best match. My guess that it is one of the creative boxes with lots of bricks and alternate builds.
> 1 votes

# Answer
I have this book, also found it on lego.brickinstructions.com:

There is no "No.1" on mine. I also have an earlier Ideas book, so this not the first one.
> 1 votes

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Tags: instructions, vintage
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# Question
Title: Has anyone else had problems with the tail rotor drive shaft on the Lego Airbus Model 42145?
I am partway through this build and at step 565. I have found the drive mechanism to be very tight and have tried to loosen the drive elements as much as possible. I have found what I think is a weakness in the design at step 515. Basically, a key part of the drive is this linkage where the white connector sleeve is linked to the other elements with smooth-ended connection pieces. When at stage 565 I found this simply slips as there is no positive drive link between the sleeve and two blue connectors. My solution has been to replace the white sleeve and two blue connection pieces with a solid splined connector that I happened to have spare. I hope it now works when connected. I have attached two photos to show the original detail and my "fix".  Am I missing something here ?

# Answer
> 8 votes
The "white connector sleeve linked to the other elements with smooth ended connection pieces" is certainly the intended way to build the model. The lack of rigid connection there acts as a torque-limiting clutch, preventing damage or injury if anything gets caught in the tail rotor while it's spinning.

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Tags: technic, building
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# Question
Title: What is this piece? 4x4 ring with studs, anyone have a clue for part #?
This is simply a ring with 8 studs on it. Anyone know what it is or what set it's from? Can't find it anywhere on BrickLink. No part number visible anywhere on the part. 1x2 tile on the side for extra size perspective.

# Answer
> 13 votes
It's the face plate for a Lego watch. There's a couple different watches this particular piece could have come from, including this Darth Vader watch and this Luke Skywalker one. I'm unable to find an element or design ID for this part though.

# Answer
> 4 votes
This question is now three years old, but I was looking for this part too.

It's Watch Part, Case Attachment - Bezel Ring with Studs (bb1008).

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Tags: piece-information, part-identification
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# Question
Title: Identify this part, looks like a black handheld controller
Does anyone have information about this LEGO item? It appears to be an infrared controller. Maybe for an old LEGO train.

# Answer
A quick image search points to part 40529c01, which appeared only in two sets from 2006: 7897-1 Passenger Train and 7898-1 Cargo Train Deluxe.
> 9 votes

# Answer
You are making me feel old, I'd consider that part of a relatively new train ;) I'll try to put your train into context by briefly describing what came before it, then describing the system you have, then briefly describing what came since.

---

In the pre-9V era there were 4.5V and 12V trains. The main rails were blue or grey plastic and sleepers and rails were supplied separately. The blue rails just used ordinary lego studs to attach to the sleepers, while the later grey track added special clips for more rigidity. The 4.5V trains were battery powered and controlled by physical switches on the train while the 12V trains used a central rail.

When trains came into the "Electric system 9V" era, the system was radically redesigned. The separate plastic rails and sleepers were replaced by single clip-together panels of track, with metal-covered rails. Trains were powered via the rails from a mains powered "transformer and speed regulator".

This system lasted a very long time with sets released all the way from 1991 to 2006.

---

Towards the end of the "Electric system 9V" era, Lego introduced a couple of trains with infrared remote control instead of track power. This is what you appear to have one of the parts of. There were three main functional components to the system.

* The remote control which you have.
* The train motor. This was similar in size and shape to the previous 9V train motor, but the electric wheels were gone, it had to be powered by a cable within the train.
* The "train base". This contained the infrared receiver and the battery box. It also had the main chassis plate for the train to which the train motor and the free-wheeling bogie would be clipped.

Alongside this Lego introduced a new type of track. This was non-conductive, but was made out of fixed panels similar to the 9V electric track. The new plastic track connected together with the 9V electrified track so both could be used for the new infrared trains.

This system did not appear to last long, it appears there were only ever two sets made, both released in 2006. The train base made the system inflexible, giving little choice in the design of the train. The motor also seems to have been released separately as an accessory in 2009.

---

The next revision of Lego trains kept the plastic track but switched from "Electric system 9V" to "power functions". This system split the infrared receiver from the battery box, allowing more flexibility in train design (and also allowing the same parts to be re-used in train and non-train applications). This lasted longer than the first generation of RC trains, though not as long as the 9V track powered trains, with sets released in 2010 to 2015.

The current revision of Lego trains, with sets released from 2018 to 2022, moves to the "powered up" system. This re-integrates the receiver with the battery box, but it uses Bluetooth instead of IR, so the receiver doesn't need line of sight.
> 4 votes

---
Tags: part-identification, trains
---


# Question
Title: Why do Star Wars sets include the Disney logo/brand name while Marvel Super Heroes sets do not?
I have noticed that LEGO sets from the past few years of their Star Wars theme include a prominent, or at least noticeable, Disney logo, typically in one of the corners. For example, see this Imperial AT Hauler set, with the trademark quasi-signature Disney logo in the lower right corner:

On the other hand, Marvel Super Heroes sets (e.g. the Thanos: Ultimate Battle set below) do not seem to include a Disney logo, despite the fact that both Lucasfilm/Star Wars (since 2012) and Marvel Comics (since 2009) are owned by Disney.

**Why is this?** Is this primarily a result of different contractual clauses in the specific licensing agreements for Star Wars and Marvel (i.e. this is done for *legal* reasons), or is this primarily a *marketing* decision by LEGO? I could easily see how they might do this to make it seem less violent and more appealing to parents with small children - "No, son, Star Wars is a really violent series about a father and son that are always fighting and chop each others' hands off, then team up to throw a local politician down a pit - wait a minute, it's *Disney*? Ok then!", but then that doesn't explain why they wouldn't do the same with Marvel, which also has a lot of young fans.

# Answer
> 11 votes
I emailed TLG:

> These changes are different as it is how Disney would like it be displayed. Prior to a set release, each set goes through a number of reviews. One of these, is our designers show Disney the boxes for them to sign off on and approve, after they review the boxes. For each set, they said the boxes were approved for release!
>
> It does appear that for the Marvel, they were ok with the Disney Logo not included on the exterior but they did want the Disney Logo on the Star Wars sets!

I also talked with a customer service representative. He took ~5 minutes to "do research." Here's a portion of (only) what he said (comment and ping me in chat if you want the full transcript):

> I'm sorry, but we don't have a clear answer on why the boxes differ. What we do know is that the designers create the artwork for the boxes that the sets come in \[sic; in\] and after that the parent company (Disney) signs off on the designs!
>
> That's it exactly! We provide the images to the parent company and they do have a say in what appears on the box, once we get the okay from them we print them off. With the Marvel and Star Wars TM they were both approved, but have the different printing.

He suggested reaching out to Disney. Unfortunately, I am still in the process of doing so.

What the above replies mean is that (1) designer decided to design a box a certain way (possibly for aesthetic reasons), (2) Disney approved the design, (3) this is the design you see on your boxes. As such, there is no "real reason" the boxes were designed this way.

~~*I will be updating the answer with a reply from Disney.*~~

The (second) reply from Disney; the first was a generic "thanks for the feedback":

> That is actually a good question for LEGO- there is a contact page in the links you sent us. This is not something we could answer...

# Answer
> -2 votes
That is very strange indeed that Disney themselves are not exactly clear on this decision and say that it should be directed towards the Lego Group alone. For some time it has bugged me, and I have been seeking an honest answer. So maybe I should contact Lego/Disney myself (3 years later). I have always thought that this decision was taken by the merchandise department of Star Wars (since it was bought by The Walt Disney Company in October 2012), this addition to branding is because of contractual agreements since becoming part of Disney, and that comes through Disney tax. It has indeed seemed that a majority of Marvel merchandise (wherever sold) has been generally more affordable by a small margin and a big factor of this is Lego sets - Lego Marvel sets value Vs Lego Star Wars sets value. The Force Awakens had the biggest amount of merchandise a film ever had (even with a big amount of merch not even based off the film) because it was Disney's time to shine big, and additional Disney Tax on Star Wars merch has especially been clear across the 5 Disney Star Wars films from 2015 to 2019. Also, we notice that Lego Star Wars sets typically have to have accuracy to the franchise, and I know there are officials at Lego who consult with Disney on what exactly to put in every main set, from build to minifigures. That is not as much the case with Lego Marvel, and their often off-comic/film builds.

---
Tags: sets, star-wars, lego-group, marketing, disney
---


# Question
Title: I found these parts but cannot find the set(s) they go to - one is largely tan, others are black and greys
I found these parts but cannot find the set they go to. Can anyone help identify the sets they belong to?

# Answer
> 10 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Salt Lake City Temple : Spires

text:
# Question
Title: Salt Lake City Temple : Spires
I'm trying to plan the tops of the spires for a lego replica of the salt lake city LDS temple. Here's a picture:

I figure I can use a technic ball joint for the round parts, or a ski pole for the top part but I can't use them together as there's no open axle on top of the ball joint. Is there any kind of sphere that a bar can be put through?

# Answer
> 5 votes
"Bar" items can fit into Technic "axle" hole. Based on that I have couple of options. Both are similar to Technic ball joint you've found, but have holes on both ends.

Technic Ball Joint with Through Axle Hole.

Technic Ball with Grooves

# Answer
> 5 votes
I'll suggest using 15395 2x2 dome bottom and 553 2x2 dome top. The dome top has a stud with hole on its end, which makes it very easy to place a ski pole, or a 1x2 plate to support a minifig:

There's downsides to this approach, though:

* The shape of the domes is not entirely round
* The 2x2 bottom dome *in light grey* colour is quite rare, and therefore relatively expensive in the aftermarket.

---

Another option is to use 44358 3x3 ball turret socket and 44359 3x3 ball turret. These have been used as cannons in several Star Wars sets and should be easy to find.

The 3x3 ball turret provides an axle on top - in order to provide a stud for supporting a minifig, you may modify a 6587 3L axle with stud, cutting it down to 1L so it fits flush within the top part of the ball turret. I know cutting down parts is frowned upon by purists; and fitting the axle flush may make it hard to get it out.

---
Tags: building, design
---


# Question
Title: Alternative source for instructions of LEGO set 7784 Batmobile?
The PDF instructions provided on the LEGO website are of very low quality. With all the black pieces, no contours can be identified. I bought a used 7784 without original instructions and with some missing part and have difficulties finding what is actually missing.

The set is almost complete, only this area is incomplete:

Is there an alternative source for LEGO instructions, possibly by a community that addresses this problem?

# Answer
Those instructions are indeed of low quality. I haven't found a downloadable copy of better quality than that either.

Unless you can find someone with a physical copy that is willing to scan them for you, or can convince the Lego company to dig you up a higher quality pdf, your best option appears to be buying a physical copy on the secondary market, like on Bricklink or Brickowl eg.

As an alternative, there are some Youtube videos showing the full instructions, if that's up your alley. Just look for "lego 7784 instructions".

On the other hand, your question does make it seem like you're really interested in the list of parts, and not so much the building instructions. In that case, there are several websites that can provide that information. A selection :
> 7 votes

# Answer
There are people who do an awesome job and remake entire sets in LEGO Digital Designer.

Luckily they did your model too:

https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=41226&view=findpost&p=1097640

https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=41226&view=findpost&p=909795
> 7 votes

# Answer
This is to wrap up this question. I accepted @Sander De Dycker's answer because it directly led to the solution. The images show the critical section of the crappy official PDF plus a screenshot from a speed build video.
> 3 votes

---
Tags: instructions
---


# Question
Title: When did bricks start to have the LEGO Group text engraved on them?
Here's an example of a part (17836) that shows this text molded on the underside:

When did bricks start to have the LEGO Group text engraved on them?

And what was the first set to use these?

# Answer
It appears that this text was introduced sometime around 2010.

It's hard to determine a definitive answer here, because not all new parts include this text (nor even the LEGO logo). This is likely often due to space constraints, but there may be other considerations as well.

The 8x16 tile from 2004 does not have this text despite being large enough:

The 2006 2x3 tile with clips is also missing this text:

However, some variants of the 2x4 tile introduced in 2010 do have this:

So it appears to have been added around this time.

The 2x3 tiles introduced in 2016 also have this text.
> 2 votes

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Tags: history
---


title: Finding minifigs in a specific theme

text:
# Question
Title: Finding minifigs in a specific theme
A couple of times I've been asked by people what is the cheapest or easiest way to buy some random complete minifigs in some theme. For example:

* they have a couple of fairground sets and they want to create a diorama populated with minifigures is summer/leisure attire...
* they have a winter village they want to populate with minifigs that are warmly dressed...
* they have a shopping mall or business district, they want minifigs in more formal attire...
* some workers on a construction site...

They usually don't want to spend the time picking out individual minifig elements, just some random complete figs with some restrictions on their attire and preferably as cheap as possible.

What would you recommend to these people?

# Answer
> 3 votes
Where I live, Brisbane Australia, we have BrickResales online as well as an actual shop. They often sell packets with six or eight minifigs relating to a theme. I've purchased half a dozen construction workers in one lot, for example. Have a look in your area for similar.

# Answer
> 3 votes
BrickLink has minifigures broken out by category and many people sell them this way because often the minifigs are the most valuable part of a set. The biggest problem I foresee in using this method is that the categories might not line up with what you are looking for very well. You might need to search through a few categories to find all of the options.

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Tags: minifigures, shopping
---


# Question
Title: Can you identify these half cylinder tiles
Can someone identify these white half cylinder tiles? I've searched bricklink for white round tile and semicylinder but couldn't find them. They are similar to the half circle tile but they are more extended, like a cylinder.

# Answer
That looks like Brick Curved 1 x 1 x 2/3 Double Curved Top, No Studs (49307) to me.
> 9 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Is this piece identifiable? A plus-shaped pyramid?
Some kind of 1x1 slope.. a plus-shaped pyramid? I'm not sure where to start searching for this piece.. thanks for any help!

# Answer
> 1 votes
It certainly looks similar to an upside down Rock 1 x 1 Crystal 4 Point rendered at low resolution:

An equally possible solution is a Brick, Modified 1 x 1 with Studs on 4 Sides with four Slope 30 1 x 1 x 2/3 (aka cheese) on the side studs.

A less probable option is a Brick, Round 1 x 1 with Fins with exaggerated fin thickness and without any roundness:

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Volvo Articulated Hauler (42114) doesn't operate the bucket
I cannot get the rams to lift or lower the tipper body. I suspect it has something to do with the clutch mechanism since all the shafts and gears rotate freely until the clutch is connected. The white clutch mechanism seems very stiff to turn. Is this normal for this clutch in a new set?

I can get the hauler to drive and steer ok but it won't operate the loader.

# Answer
Two steps below are taken from first instruction booklet for the 42114 set. Since one end of the clutch is locked it basically tells, that under normal conditions, clutch should not be spinning at all. Clutch is used as a safety feature within the build, when something get stuck, not to cause further damage to gears or human flesh. So in this case it should only begin spinning if the rest of the gear train is having issues.

I'm not entirely sure what could be causing your issue of bed not operating, but I suspect one other tricky place could be the reason. Please pay attention to the location of 20 tooth bevel gear for each side (highlighted in blue) in the pictures below. One of these needs to be on top on one side and on the bottom on the other. If placed in the same direction, one side will pull while the other will be pushing.
> 8 votes

# Answer
I built this project and found that I also had issues with the build. After several rip-aparts and tests, I discovered what I believe many are messing up on this build.

1. The early steps of building the gearbox are crucial to later success.
2. Once you get the gearbox built, but before you have connected the motors, operate everything manually to ensure that the purple clips and the orange shifter are aligned as shown in the diagram.
3. Also, be sure that each of the shift rings is connected properly to the orange shifter. You can test this by rotating the purple shift actuator axle above and ensuring that all 3 shift rings move accordingly.
4. Don't forget the extra red gears at the end of the gearbox assembly. If you have extra gears sitting in a bag at the end of bag 1, you probably did something wrong.

The shifting works as follows:

There is a Park Gear at full clockwise for the purple clip. It will be at the bottom. This is also where you can operate the dump function.

* 1st gear is 90 degrees counterclockwise with the purple clip away from you.
* 2nd gear is with the purple clip straight up.
* 3rd gear is with the purple clip flat and towards you.

Once you've fully assembled the model and connected the cab to the rear unit you can test to be sure that everything functions correctly.

Be sure and do a recalibration if you changed anything in the gearing.

I had forgotten that there is a 3rd differential hidden underneath the yellow 3x3 / under the dump function gearing in the center. If you don't connect the cab or alternately connect a geared load to the center shaft, nothing will operate and you'll wonder why.

Hopefully, these more detailed instructions will get you unstuck and you'll be operating your truck in no time.
> 4 votes

# Answer
A video showing the dumper drive running forward (up) and backward (down) can be seen here. I didn't make the video but it helped me correct the problems I was having with my build. https://bricksafe.com/pages/VermontDave
> 2 votes

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Tags: technic
---


title: Help identifying 4 weird Duplo pieces

text:
# Question
Title: Help identifying 4 weird Duplo pieces
I don't collect Duplo so I'm not familiar with a lot of the pieces they have. Here are the four that stump me:

* 4x10x3-ish freight hopper: I searched "duplo hopper" in BrickLink but only got this
* 2x2 brick with axle(?). The axles are hollow up to the edge of the brick
* 2x2 blue dome brick with eyes and a clip. The studs are hollow
* 5x5-ish dome bricks with a 2x2 centre. They have two tiny holes in the bottom, and a groove at the top. Initially I thought they belonged with the tube system pieces because I have several of those, but the circle size is too big for that.

None have dates on them.

Thanks!

# Answer
The yellow piece looks like 40637 Duplo, Brick 2 x 2 with Digger Bucket Arm Holder.
> 7 votes

# Answer
I just found the answers to 75% of my question! I was scrolling BrickLink for "duplo tube" since I have several of those pieces, then found the blue dome with eyes: it's "Duplo Ball Tube Cover Ring Hinged Top with Eyes". It only appears in one set, and attaches to another piece which I don't have, which then connects to the tubes, so that's why I didn't know it related to the tube pieces.

In this set's inventory, I then found two more of my pieces: the green hopper, which is "Duplo Loading Chute with 2 x 4 Base Bricks", and the red/blue inverted domes, which are "Duplo Egg Base". So I was right about the bases relating to the tubes, but they don't actually connect to them, they just sit there.

I haven't identified the yellow axle brick though!
> 6 votes

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Tags: part-identification, duplo
---


# Question
Title: Downgrade from Spike 3 Hub OS to Spike 2 Hub OS
**I'm trying to downgrade our Spike Prime Hub from the Spike App v3's firmware to the Spike App v2's firmware.** Has anyone been successful? Or does anyone have suggestions on how to flash the firmware to a version that's compatible with Spike App v2.0.8 or v2.0.9?

#### Context

I upgraded our hub to Spike 3. This is the default recommended behavior through the new v3 app as of December 1st, 2022, as follows.

> **DO NOT DO THESE STEPS IF YOU NEED YOUR v2 CODE TO WORK WITH YOUR SPIKE PRIME HUB**
>
> - Navigate to Spike App v3 (link above) and notice that there is a new version of the app
> - Select Prime
> - Click Update Hub on the popup
> - Follow the steps to update the firmware for the v3 Spike App

After doing so, I realized our existing v2 Spike Prime code would no longer be compatible. There's a different filename extension for the new files (`.llsp3` vs `.llsp`). Eventually, I want to switch to the newer app, but for now, I am trying to get our .llsp code working again.

#### Attempted resolution

>

# Answer
> 1 votes
Aha!

1. *Prerequisite for Windows:* Use this tool to install a driver. (See tips here.)
2. Use the https://spikelegacy.legoeducation.com/hubdowngrade/ downgrade tool.
3. Go back to https://spikelegacy.legoeducation.com/ to reconnect.
4. Follow the prompts to update the Hub OS one last time.

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Tags: software, spike-prime
---


# Question
Title: How can I stop bricks 'skating' over plates?
I've just read all around the question about 'clutch power' from nine years ago and the changing molds, both here and on Rebrickable, but these don't answer my problem.

Has anyone else had the problem of bricks and plates not wanting to stick to plates being used as base plates? As in MILS plates, for example? Often they just slide over the plates not wanting the engage, especially when I'm trying to stick a structure with EG a footprint of 6 x 4 studs onto a MILS plate. I'm using a mixture of new and I don't know how old.

Anything I can do about it? Wondering if I should wash everything in lemon juice.

# Answer
I suspect you are encountering an effect similar to what happens when stacking large plates together. 6x4 doesn’t seem particularly large but any area larger than 2x2 can be difficult to initially connect to a large contiguous area. The comment from Sander is a good one: try attaching one corner of your structure first. Then apply pressure radiating from that corner to connect the rest. You may need to use some of the techniques mentioned in the linked answer to get it fully connected.

I would VERY STRONGLY recommend AGAINST using any fruit juices to wash any parts in any circumstances! Any fruit juice, even a highly acidic one like lemon juice, contains sugars that will be hard to remove completely and can lead to mold or insect infestations depending on how the parts are stored or displayed.
> 5 votes

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Tags: compatibility, cleaning, durability, quality
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# Question
Title: Is "modular" just a theme, or is it bigger?
I first heard of "modular" in the Lego world about the series of modular buildings in sets produced from 2007 onward. The architecture seems to be 1800s to late 2000s.

Then read that the Lego system as a whole is considered modular. "This modular system is a set of basic building blocks that can be combined in different ways to build numerous varying creations.

But sometimes the people talking about their modular buildings are talking about MOCs or medieval villages. Is the term being used to mean something more?

# Answer
> 5 votes
Generally speaking "Modular(s)" refers to sets in the Creator Expert theme that are designed with common proportions and common attachment points to allow them to be strung together neatly. Mostly this takes the form of Technic-pin connectors and socket bricks in the same places on each set. It's made somewhat simple by all the sets being built on the same size baseplates, sometimes paired up the half-width version for larger sets.

They're also generally designed so that each floor of the building is itself a module. They have no cross-floor connections, allowing higher levels to be cleanly lifted off lower floors and separated to see what's inside.

While most of them are in the Creator Expert series, and that's generally what people mean when they talk about "Modulars" as a group, there are sets in other themes designed to a compatible specification. Off the top of my head:

There are some sets built with similar techniques (plate size, easily lifted floors) that are not directly/fully compatible with the other "Modulars": 71741 Ninjago City Gardens comes to mind. It doesn't have the sidewalks of the other sets, nor does it have all the attachment points.

Lastly... in the eyes of Lego themselves, "Modular" is not a theme. You can't shop explicitly for sets by their modular nature.  There's a few more themes than those listed above, but "Modular" isn't among them.

# Answer
> 5 votes
"Modularity" is an attribute, that like for example "flexibility" can be applied on different scales. A water droplet is considered flexible, but a larger volume of water is definitely not. Whereas a meter of 1mm diameter copper wire is clearly flexible, but a 5mm piece of it will easily pierce skin.

When people talk about LEGO bricks being modular, they mean they (i.e. the individual bricks) can easily attach to each other in various different configurations (barring some combinations of course). When the same is said about buildings, they mean essentially the same, just on a different scale: that the individual buildings can be attached to each other easily and in various ways. Inbetween, a single LEGO set can be modular as well, meaning it consists of multiple modules that can be connected in different ways, like for example 6973: Deep Freeze Defender, 7633: Construction Site or 60349: Lunar Space Station

# Answer
> 4 votes
I would say term "modular system" is the basic idea behind the LEGO itself. It is the reason there is so much variety in the ways you can attach parts to make your won creations.

"Modulars", on the other hand, is the term commonly used for particular Creator Expert sets of buildings that, once completed, can be attached one another to form a larger exposition. This is because these buildings are modular (have sort of a standard) - they are roughly same scale, have attachment points in the same place, sidewalk is the same width (+- a stud or two depending on a building). All of this makes them look consistent and easily interchangeable i.e. modular. Unlike previously sets with buildings which were standalone or didn't keep to the same "standard".

# Answer
> 4 votes
To add to the answer given by Alex when building a MOC some people also make their creation modular to make it transportable and/or to make it flexible in usage. For landscaping there are some standards created by the community. One example is called MILS(Modular Integrated Landscaping System). In the case of MILS one of its primary objectives is to create a set of standards so that 2 or more people can work together on 1 large creation while not in the same location and make sure it will all fit together.

# Answer
> 2 votes
We are not limited to the modular buildings from LEGO. You can design your own based on documented standards for modular buildings. And the community has designed many modular buildings that you can get instructions for on rebrickable.

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Tags: terminology, modular-buildings
---


# Question
Title: Can LEGO City Powered Up trains be automated?
I have a LEGO City train set (60336):

The set includes a remote control as well as an app that can be used to control the train. Is it possible to automate the operation of LEGO City trains, ideally without needing to be tethered to a smart device to help reduce children getting distracted by a screen?

# Answer
> 57 votes
I've been exploring this recently, and I wanted to share my experiences in the hopes that they are useful to others. There are a few ways this can be accomplished. Some are possible out of the box, and others require extra hardware or 3rd-party software.

## Typical Package Contents

Here's the electronics we typically get out of the box with a Powered Up train set:

1. Powered Up City hub (28738). This includes two I/O ports (used for a motor and possibly lights). The City hub does not include an accelerometer, compass, or GPS, so there is limited feedback provided. It does include a programmable RGB LED and a button.

2. Train Motor (28740). This motor is one of only two Powered Up motors that do not include rotation and distance tracking, so there is no easy way to know how far the train has traveled, but we are able to adjust its relative speed.

3. Lights (22168) may be included as headlights for the train.

## Programming using Powered Up App

The default experience in the Powered Up app provides a controller for the train, but we can also automate the train using a Scratch-like programming environment. This environment is powerful, but the hardware at our disposal is quite limited as a robotics platform. In particular, the included hardware has no useful sensors, which makes the environment unobservable.

If we start the train from a known location, we can run it at a set approximate speed for a certain amount of time, leaving it at a new approximate location. Unfortunately, these locations will change slightly over time, as we have no way of sensing exactly far we have traveled. This might be fine if you just want the train to move for a while then stop for a while, but if you want to stop at stations, things get trickier.

One solution is to induce the train to stop at a known location regularly, such as a siding. We can intentionally stall against the buffer on the siding to reset to a known position.

## Adding Sensors

If we're willing to add some additional hardware, things can get much more advanced. One option is to add a color sensor to the bottom on the train:

We can connect the sensor to the port not being used by the motor.

With this in place, we can modify our track by adding plates or tiles of different colors to indicate location on the track or particular actions to take. In this way, we can have the train reliably stop at stations or take other actions. Here's an example program that allows the train to wait when it sees red under the color sensor:

This is similar in concept to the DUPLO trains in terms of input, but we can program the colors to change behaviors in any way we'd like.

We could also choose to add a different sensor, such as a distance sensor or a tilt sensor. Alternatively, we could replace the City hub with a larger hub and add multiple sensors, but this would likely require redesigning the train and would add significant cost.

## Standalone Operation

One of the weaknesses of the City Hub currently is that it requires a tethered Bluetooth device, such as a phone, tablet or computer, in order to function. By flashing the custom Pybricks firmware to the hub, we can overcome this limitation and write programs directly to the device. This is especially useful for public displays or other use cases where Bluetooth connections may become problematic.

Here is an example Pybricks program that would allow a train to run for 10 seconds and then pause for 35 using the RGB LED on the hub to indicate its status:

```
"""
Simple automated train that runs for 10 seconds then pauses for 35

Light transitions from red to orange to yellow as timer counts down
"""

from pybricks.hubs import CityHub
from pybricks.pupdevices import DCMotor, Light
from pybricks.parameters import Button, Color, Direction, Port, Stop
from pybricks.robotics import DriveBase
from pybricks.tools import wait, StopWatch

hub = CityHub()
motor = DCMotor(Port.A)

while True:
    hub.light.on(Color.GREEN)
    motor.dc(60)
    wait(10000)
    motor.dc(0)
    hub.light.on(Color.RED)
    wait(15000)
    hub.light.on(Color.ORANGE)
    wait(15000)
    hub.light.on(Color.YELLOW)
    wait(5000)

```

I use a setup similar to the above to allow an automated train to run around my son's city without the need to have a screen nearby the whole time.

# Answer
> 7 votes
If you don't want to touch the original hardware, you can replace the smartphone with something else like an ESP32.

https://github.com/corneliusmunz/legoino

This would require some programming knowledge.

# Answer
> 6 votes
For the sake of completeness: it's possible to replace the 2-port "city" powered-up hub with the 6-port technic powered-up hub. That should offer more flexibility when programming.

This is doable since the technic powered-up hub is 4 studs high, so it will fit within the locomotive (leaving a gap of half a stud on the front and back). It will, however, protrude about one stud over the ceiling of the locomotive (without taking into account cables and connectors!), so this is not a very aesthetic approach.

It should be possible to enclose the hub (or at least make it flush with the locomotive's ceiling) by increasing the overall height of the locomotive.

It should also be possible to replace the train motor with a SPIKE medium angular motor (since the latter is slightly smaller than the former), but connecting such an assembly to the train underside (and make it pivot as the train motor does) is a bit too challenging.

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Tags: trains, powered-up, automation
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# Question
Title: What was the purpose of the triangular corner marking and the "points" in Lego instructions starting around 1992?
Around 1992 (possibly, coinciding with the switch from Legoland to Lego System labeling on boxes?), Lego instructions started featuring a triangular marking in the corner of a page. On one side, that marking would show some graphical cue to the theme or subtheme, e.g.:

These exemplary markings are from the instructions of:

In the beginning, the other side of those markings contained what appears to be a points count (the larger the set, the more points it would contain):

Note how this side also contains the set number and the year - based on the instructions I'm looking at right now, I cannot tell whether it is the original release year of the set, or the year this particular instruction sheet was printed.

Oddly enough, TLC discontinued this "points" labeling not long after it had been introduced, but otherwise, the corner marking remained:

**What, if any, was the purpose of those "points"? Once the points were gone, was there still any purpose to the triangular corner marking, or was it merely "traditional"/decorative by then?**

# Answer
> 9 votes
There doesn't appear to be much information left on this. I've only really found this eurobricks thread, that attempts to answer the same question.

In summary, it appears to have been a marketing experiment that was abandoned before it really took off (it only lasted for about 2 years between 1992 and 1994). The idea was (as far as I can gather) that these points could be redeemed for rewards and/or discounts (similar to the current VIP points system).

These points were printed in the instructions for several themes worldwide, with more points allocated to bigger sets. The biggest sets yielded hundreds of points, eg. 600 points for 6086 Black Knight's Castle :

However, I've only found mention of actually being able to use them in the US, and in a very limited fashion at that. This post by star1138 in the same eurobricks thread includes an example of how the points could be redeemed (found in a US Town Mini Catalog from 1993) :

Transcription :

> **HURRY! Offer Expires March 1, 1994**
>
> **Collect Maniac Model Points for FREE Gifts!**
>
> You can get a **FREE** half-year subscription to the LEGO Builders Club Magazine for only 50 Points
> Or get both a **FREE** Police 4x4 Model and the **FREE** half-year subscription for 150 Points!
>
> **Here's How To Do It...**
> Purchase any of the awesome sets shown to the left. Collect the required amount of Maniac Model Points from the building instructions of these sets. (They'll look like the ones pictured here!)
>
> To get your **FREE** gift, clip the Maniac Model Points you've collected and mail them with the order form below.
> **It's really easy ... and fun!**

I haven't found any other examples (trawling through all kinds of instructions and catalogs from different regions in that time period), so all credit goes to star1138 for finding the above one !

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Tags: instructions, history
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