# Question
Title: What piece is this ARC-170 Starfighter cockpit?
I got these with the ARC-170 LEGO Starfighter (archived):

I'd like to get more if possible. They are a part of the cockpit.

# Answer
That looks like 30384 Windscreen 7 x 4 x 2 Round. In general, BrickLink is a pretty decent place to browse around for parts identification. Peeron is also pretty good.

BrickLink provides a comprehensive list of windscreens both plain and decorated.
> 26 votes

# Answer
This is the Trans-Black Windscreen 7 x 4 x 2 Round
> 19 votes

# Answer
(7259) ARC-170 or (8088) ARC-170 Starfighter.

The part can be found in these sets on Bricklink and a cool alternative list.
> 8 votes

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Tags: part-identification, star-wars
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# Question
Title: What is the "LEGO Master Builder Academy"?
At a LEGO store I saw a box advertising the "LEGO Master Builder Academy". It came with a book and a code for online registration, and mentioned a subscription fee.

What is this "Academy"? What do I get with the set? How much does it cost?

# Answer
Basically, it's a program in which LEGO Master Builders share and impart their LEGO building knowledge to members. If you remember LEGO BrickMaster, MBA is sort of a successor to that.

There's a Guide section in the LEGO MBA site that answers your questions. Specifically, from What is LEGO MBA?:

**What is this "Academy"?**

> LEGO Master Builder Academy is an in-home and online experience in which real LEGO Master Builders share the tips and techniques of basic through advanced building, creativity and design with kids (ages 8 or older) who want to become better builders.

**What do I get with the set?**

> The first annual subscription includes LEGO MBA kits 2-6, with one kit delivered every 2 months, plus unlimited access to the members-only LEGOmba.com website! Each LEGO MBA kit includes an 84-page Designer Handbook teaching LEGO Master Builder techniques, plus articles, building instructions full of Master Builder tips, LEGO bricks to create 3 new models (one at a time), and exclusive minifigures or accessories.

**How much does it cost?**

> The subscription, which includes kits 2-6, is $69.99 and available for purchase online or by phone.

This "about" page and the rest of the site should answer some other questions you might have.
> 24 votes

# Answer
It's what replaced the old "BrickMaster" program where Lego company would send a comic book and a new small Lego set every month.

There are pro's and con's to the new program but it's about the same except the first set is a much bigger "starter" set and the building books are more detailed (and I think the comic part is gone but I may have just missed it . . . I've just been getting them and putting them in the closet and not doing much with them).

* PRO: The new books do a better job of explaining how to build the model and have details about why.
* PRO: The books are real books and not pamphlets.
* PRO: Each set builds off the prior sets
* CON: It's more expensive
* CON: It's all on the same "space" theme for now whereas the old program you would get a set from the different series like City, Star Wars, Creator, etc.
> 8 votes

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Tags: shopping
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# Question
Title: Do tools exist to help me translate a real world object to a LEGO design?
It can be a big challenge to create a design for a large object. Are there techniques or tools to simplify this, and to help estimate numbers of blocks required?

# Answer
Lego Digital Designer (~140mb, Mac and PC) is quite useful for creating 3D designs. I haven't personally used it that much but it is quite a powerful tool. It will tell you the number of bricks used in a model as well.

At a pinch, MS Paint (pixel-based), Google Sketchup (find some templates for bricks) and Minecraft could even be used for planing builds.
> 17 votes

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Tags: tools
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title: What is an Erling brick?

text:
# Question
Title: What is an Erling brick?
I have seen people refer to the "Erling brick" or "headlight brick" on LEGO forums. What kind of brick are they talking about?

# Answer
I definitely know them as the headlight brick, and they look like this:

HoMa's world of bricks has a nice page dedicated to this brick!

http://www.holgermatthes.de/bricks/en/lampenstein.php

LEGO's Pick a Brick lists this as an "Angular Brick 1x1", Design ID 4070 (equivalent to the piece/part id).
> 39 votes

# Answer
The Erling Brick: named by the LEGO Designer Erling Dideriksen, who invented this element in 1979.
> 22 votes

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Tags: piece-information, terminology
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title: What is SNOT building?

text:
# Question
Title: What is SNOT building?
I have seen reference on LEGO forums to "SNOT building". This sounds gross! Are there really squishy-sticky LEGO bricks, or what?

# Answer
SNOT stands for **S**tuds **N**ot **O**n **T**op and it means building structures where you use hinges or other techniques to change the direction of the bricks, so they are not one on top of the other as it's done traditionally.

This is a very simple example of SNOT:

The technique is particularly useful for spaceships and even some LEGO sets rely on it, for example, look at the wings of the Imperial Shuttle (10212):

as well as any of the star destroyers, like the latest one, the Super Star Destroyer (10221) (the surfaces near the borders are placed at an angle):

There are many ways of performing this technique. Swooshable's SNOT reference tool has many more practical examples.
> 53 votes

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Tags: terminology, snot
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# Question
Title: What are the arched things above a wheel called?
I have a bunch of second hand bricks and some are "wheel wells" for the lack of better words.

I would like to find out how I use them for example at bricklink, but then I need to find the name for such a thing first

# Answer
That is a Vehicle, Mudguard 2 x 4 with Arch Studded (and a darn hard part to figure out at that).
> 20 votes

# Answer
i'm calling those things "fenders" (don't know the "official" name, too).

**EDIT:**
if found wheel arch 2x4 in the LEGO-shop. this isn't exactly what you were looking for, but looks like a "newer version" - so maybe we should call those pieces "wheel arches" in the future.
> 6 votes

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Tags: part-identification, terminology
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title: What is "micro-scale" building?

text:
# Question
Title: What is "micro-scale" building?
I have seen references to "micro-scale" building in LEGO documentation. How is this different than the "normal" LEGO building scale?

# Answer
> 19 votes
It refers to building items at a much smaller scale than the usual "mini-fig" scale.

For example the "Micro" Star Destroyer:

4492 Mini Star Destroyer

---

**Edit to add:**

Officially however, when bought as a set they are usually referred to as "Mini-scale".

# Answer
> 10 votes
Microscale is not just a technique, it's an artform:

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Tags: terminology, micro-scale
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# Question
Title: Is there an official LEGO brick color reference?
> **Possible Duplicate:**
> How many different colours of lego brick are there?

Is there a canonical reference for the different colors of LEGO bricks?

Ideally this would be a color-matching system like Pantone or RAL but if such a reference isn't available something like sRGB would be acceptable as well.

# Answer
> 5 votes
Every color used in LEGO over the years is listed on the official LEGO color chart at Peeron. It also includes CMYK, RGB and Pantone references.

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Tags: colour
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# Question
Title: Is there virtual LEGO designing software?
> **Possible Duplicate:**
> Do any programs exist that allow you to build own LEGO plans?

Some years ago, there was a really good program to build models from LEGO. But today I can't find it. Do you know such software which runs on a Linux machine?

# Answer
> 1 votes
The LEGO Digital Designer that was the client/creation part of **Design**By**Me** is Windows or Mac only.

This is regularly updated with the latest sets of parts available through Pick a Brick and similar tools.

It allows you to print off building instructions, or upload your creations to the LEGO site.

Previously, you were able to order a boxed set of your model for yourself, friends or family, however The LEGO Group discontinued this service in January 2012.

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Tags: software
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# Question
Title: What are these Technic "Zapfen" ("stoppers") called in English?
What are these pieces called in English? Google translator doesn't help in this case...

# Answer
> 24 votes
The LEGO Pick A Brick store lists them as **connector pegs** (or, more simply, **pegs**) although they are more commonly known as **pins** in the fan community1.

The black ones have added friction for holding things together, while the light gray and beige ones are smoother and allow pieces to rotate, for example tires or beams.

1 BrickLink, Peeron

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Tags: technic, part-identification
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# Question
Title: What are the characteristics of "Miniland" scale?
I have heard many references to "Miniland" scale. From what I have seen, this style of building mostly includes figurines that are larger than normal mini-figs.

What are some other characteristics of "Miniland" scale?

# Answer
> 9 votes
## Mini style {used in LEGO sets and by collectors, not Miniland}

Mini scale/style is typically much smaller than normal LEGO. In Mini scale/style, figures are formed with 2-3 blocks.

Mini scale/style {if I remember correctly} didn't gain popularity until recently. It's so far been popularly used in the LEGO Architecture sets, and in a few others of common landmarks.

It's also common to see three-to-five-dollar packages that contain buildable models {sold in the LEGO stores} in the Mini scale/style.

Examples of Mini sets include:

## Miniland style {used by Legoland amusement parks and a few LEGO sets}

I believe that the LEGO amusement parks use something close to miniland scale. It is, however, much different than normal Mini style/scale. One notable fact is that the people have larger heads. I know this is true for the one in Billund, but I'm not sure about the one in California.

Here and here are the pages of Minilands Billund and California, respectively. The Billund miniland doesn't have its' own page, but it's on the interactive map at the link provided.

A Miniland Flickr group is here if you want to see what Miniland style/scale is.

EDIT! As Zhaph-Ben Duguid pointed out, the Legoland amusement parks are called Miniland, but do not use the Mini scale/style. They use a strange hybrid between DUPLO and LEGO Mini scale/style. It is actually not the more common Mini style/scale used in sets. I've updated this answer to reflect that.

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Tags: terminology
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# Question
Title: What is the name of the Lego product that snaps together with knobs?
I remember owning a very strange Lego set, but have forgotten the name.

The pieces were similar to Technic parts, but different. They were green rounded frames and connected using purple squares with knobs. I do not recall them being able to directly connect to classic Lego bricks.

The set I owned was some sort of space ship. It came with a motor that made parts of it spin.

Any ideas?

# Answer
> 26 votes
I ended up finding my old instruction book. The parts were called Lego Znap.

It still blows my mind that these things exist.

# Answer
> 0 votes
Are you thinking of the BIONICLE line?

> BIONICLE was a theme with series of sets using some of the TECHNIC pieces created by LEGO in 2001 to 2010. It is usually attributed to the TECHNIC line due to the inclusion of TECHNIC specific elements and building-styles although being a largely independent product series.
> BIONICLE - Brickipedia, the LEGO Wiki

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Why are old LEGO bricks more brittle than new ones?
My vintage LEGO sets (circa 1980) are difficult to unbuild. Some pieces are prone to break. Did the plastic recipe change with time or are the bricks simply degrading?

# Answer
The LEGO company switched to ABS in 1963, bricks produced before that have a markedly different quality.

However, if your sets are from around 1980, they should use ABS already and there should be no reason that the plastic is different.

Other possible explanations would be bad storage conditions (too warm, direct sunlight, maybe), or the fat that the set may have only been built once. Indeed, ABS bricks reach their optimal clutch power after having been assembled/disassembled about 8 to 10 times, so if you just built the set once and let it be (for display for example), then the bricks are in fact still too new and clutch together too tighly.
> 18 votes

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Tags: manufacturing, cleaning, plastics, vintage
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title: What does "AFOL" mean?

text:
# Question
Title: What does "AFOL" mean?
I've seen the term *AFOL* around; for example, this site has an tag. What does *AFOL* stand for?

# Answer
AFOL stands for "Adult Fan Of LEGO".

From an unofficial LEGO acronym glossary:

> AFOL
>
> Adult Fan of LEGO. The most common term used to refer to LEGO fans who are adults. Generally pronounced to rhyme with “hay-foal”.

Or from Brickipedia's glossary (also unofficial):

> AFOL - Adult Fan Of LEGO
> 15 votes

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Tags: terminology, afol
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# Question
Title: Can I write programs for the LEGO RCX 2.0 in Java/C++?
Is there a library which makes it possible to write LEGO Mindstorms programs for RCX 2.0 in Java or C++? With the LEGO software it takes so much time to write good programs.

# Answer
> 11 votes
I was looking into this just recently. There are libraries and also it seems there are other firmwares offering alternative operating systems you can embed on the Mindstorm.

For C++ you could try:

* nxtOSEK is an alternative OS offering a C++ api
* BrickOS is an alternative OS with a C/C++ development environment
* NXT++ is a C++ lib for controlling the original Mindstorm with a C++ API (through BlueTooth or USB)

For java solutions might be:

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Tags: mindstorms, programming, automation
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# Question
Title: Is there difference between different colors of LEGO axles?
There are a few different colors of LEGO Technic axles, but not enough to really use for artistic variation - black, grey, some beige, and recently I have started seeing blue.

The particular color used in different Technic sets seems arbitrary to me. Is there a difference between the different colors aside from just the color, like a slightly different size or tensile strength?

# Answer
> 13 votes
The first LEGO axles were milky white and were probably made in a different plastic than they are now.

Later on, LEGO started making all-black axles when they started doing more serious technic sets. However, the tendancy is now to make sure all difficult technic pieces are "color-coded" so that children can pick them out more easily. As such, nowadays, the following axle lengths and colors are standard:

* 2: red, notched
* 3, 5, 7, 9: (new) grey - no 11 yet as far as I know but I suppose it's just a matter of time
* 4, 6, 8, 10, 12: black
* 3 with stud: dark tan
* 4 with stop, 5.5 with stop, 8 with stop: (new) dark grey

Similarly, 2L friction pins are black, non-friction grey, 3L friction pins are blue and non-friction tan, and so on. All that to make sure they're easy to pick. Even gears are being changed now, for example the classic 24T is now dark grey.

That said, there have been other colors used for axles, when the color itself was important. I've seen tan, red, green, brown, but possibly others exists. The long ones (32 and 16) have also been produced in black, white, and yellow (32 only).

As far as I know the plastic used is always the same, so they should all have the same mechanical properties.

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Tags: technic, piece-information, manufacturing
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# Question
Title: Are transparent neon Lego bricks made from a different plastic than usual?
There are several colors of transparent, fluorescent Lego bricks. In particular, "trans neon yellow" and "trans neon orange", introduced in the early 1990s, exist in a variety of specialized shapes like skis, satellite dishes and visors.

A Eurobricks discussion on why minifigs are not made from transparent colors suggests that the transparent colors require a different plastic resin than the normal bricks:

> I think some of the issue is that (according to Jamie Berard \[Lego designer\]), the transparent bricks are made from polycarbonate plastic (PC) rather than ABS. And that's fine most of the time, when you've got opaque ABS and transparent PC, it works just fine. ... But when PC and PC parts get next to each other, they bond VERY TIGHTLY.

I've never really noticed this issue with transparent bricks, but perhaps it's only an issue for certain blocks or with the flexibility needed in minifigs. Still, it's good to know the characteristics of what you're working with!

I can find plenty of information about the normal ABS bricks, but little specifically about how the transparent neon Lego bricks are made. Are these bricks made from PC rather than ABS?

# Answer
> 23 votes
All of this is correct, ABS can't be transparent and thus transparent parts are made of PC. PC against PC bonds way too tighly and designers are actually forbidden to do that in their models. (I've a 4L lightsaber blade stuck in the crossend of a Technic beam, both trans-red, and I can't get it out.)

I'm fairly sure there's a designer (possibly Jamie Berard indeed) presentation on things forbidden to designers but I can't find it back.

Edit: @Grandpappy found it back: http://bramlambrecht.com/tmp/jamieberard-brickstress-bf06.pdf and it's indeed by Jamie Berard. Worth reading again and again.

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Tags: manufacturing, colour, plastics
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# Question
Title: What different bricks exist with studs on the sides?
(Partially inspired by this question.)

I have been wondering recently just how many different LEGO bricks there are with studs on the side.

Which LEGO **bricks** have studs specifically on the sides?

*Note:* I am asking about bricks, not plates and/or other types of elements.

# Answer
There are a lot of elements shown (together with other possibilities and SNOT-techniques) at holgermatthes.de, where there are pieces that are really **bricks with side-studs** (excluding all the other possibilities for SNOT-building) are those (+ the headlight/erling-brick and the big gray blocks you can see here, which are not shown in the following image):
> 6 votes

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Tags: building, snot
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# Question
Title: What are the names for these two pieces of a car chassis and a piece for above the wheels?
I have the following pieces but cannot find their names nor precise usage on BrickLink or elsewhere

The black one has a wheel well on each side - sorry for the poor image quality.

Both the red and black will touch the wheels I have unless I stick a thin piece between them

Please show me an example on how I use them and what the blue piece is for.

\[

# Answer
* : 3787 — Car Mudguard 2 x 4 without Studs
* : 4211 — Car Base 4 x 5
* : 4732 — Bracket 8 x 2 x 1 1/3

In the link for each piece, you'll find actual sets containing them, from which you can find set instructions. In particular, the two mudguard ones need to be one plate apart from regular wheel sets.
> 11 votes

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Tags: part-identification, vehicle
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# Question
Title: Does the LEGO company sell LEGO brick organization bins?
> **Possible Duplicate:**
> What are some storage options?

Are there official LEGO brick storage and organization bins available? If not, then what good 3rd party options are there? I'm looking to transition away from just having large plastic boxes filled with LEGO bricks that require me digging through, and going to having a way to quickly access specific bricks I need when building.

# Answer
The LEGO company has indeed regularly issued storage solutions. They may be great for kids (the latest ones are brick-shaped), but let's face it, for serious fans they are mostly pointless. And expensive.

Depending on the size of your collection and your sorting method (which is another debate, but remember to sort by form first, not by color), you'll want to switch to do-it-yourself storage racks (the ones with lots of plastic drawers) or whatever you fancy. If using drawers, make sure they are translucid, or have a sticker with the image of the part on them. (LEGOland designers glue one specimen of the actual part).

Some people just buy translucid boxes, try to find some shop which sells them in bulk (like, by 100 pieces), ask a caterer where he finds his for example.

It will require some experimenting anyway, so don't buy too much of an expensive item before being sure it's right for you.
> 12 votes

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Tags: storage, organisation
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# Question
Title: What's the largest LEGO construction ever?
In terms of the number of bricks used.

Is this house, constructed by James May for the show *Toy Stories*, the biggest?

# Answer
> 6 votes
This house is the biggest lego ever built unless proven otherwise. I searched a bit and could not find anything using more bricks.

Here are some other project falling short from the 3.3 millions bricks :

* Shopville Le Gru,Grugliasco (Italy), 1.5km long, using 2,901,760 bricks, 13 February 2005
* LEGO Millyard Project at SEE Science Center in Manchester, 3 millions bricks, permanent

Here is a list of LEGO records : http://www.recordholders.org/en/list/lego.html

# Answer
> 5 votes
It depends what you mean by 'construction'. The largest construction project would probably be one of the LEGOLAND Theme Parks. The miniland part of the Windsor park alone has 40 million bricks.

James May's Toy Story LEGO home was made with 3.3 million bricks although some of the bricks accounted for the separate models made to furnish the home.

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Tags: records
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title: What changes were made to Maersk blue?

text:
# Question
Title: What changes were made to Maersk blue?
I read that LEGO recently changed the colour of Maersk blue. Is this true? If so, why did they make a change?

# Answer
> 15 votes
Considering that color has been produced explicitely and exclusively for Maersk sets, it's highly unlikely they would change it. Most people seem to agree that the same color has been used for all Maersk ships sets.

That said, you'll also need to consider that even if LEGO never intended to change the color, small variations in hue are always possible (red and purple are much more susceptible to this). Also, in the case of Maersk, LEGO used their entire supply in 2006 and said at the time that they wouldn't issue Maersk sets again because of that. However, Maersk realized the demand was high (LEGO did consider making a version fo the ships in another color altogether at some point) and agreed to have LEGO make a new batch to later on. So these are in effect different batches, separated by a few years, which means any hue change will be more likely to be noticed than if it appeared gradually over time.

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Tags: colour
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# Question
Title: What is the history of "Modulex" blocks?
I have seen a few very small models using something called "Modulex" pieces and have even heard that they are somehow directly related to LEGO? They don't seem to be around anymore so I was wondering what their history was?

# Answer
> 8 votes
Modulex bricks were produced by LEGO mainly for architects as the dimensions were more easy to scale up (they are 5mm in all directions).

You can find a full history (which I confess I didn't read) here

In time, Modulex started to focus more on signage and separated from LEGO, but it still exists nowadays.

# Answer
> 4 votes
The german Wikipedia article states that they were meant to be used by architects, etc. They are much easier to use for to-scale models, because they are 5 mm high (which results in a comfortable 1:20 scale). It would be quite hard to do that with the standard 8x9.6 mm LEGO bricks.

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Tags: history
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# Question
Title: What is the popular challenge of solving the Rubik cube as quickly as possible using LEGO bricks?
I saw videos of people participating in a race to resolve a Rubik cube as quickly as possible using Mindstorm LEGO robots.

Can you provide information whether there is a competition and on who is involved? What is the research/design process? Is there any sponsorship? What are the performance obtained?

# Answer
> 11 votes
There's no "race" as this has been solved multiple times by different people (solving rubik's cube isn't that hard). just take a look at the CubeStormer (or, better, the CubeStormer II).

I also saw building-plans and programs for such a cube-solver (not exactly the linked one). If you like to rebuild such a thing: I'll add links as soon as i find them.

**EDIT:**
As promised, there's the Tilted Twister with building plans online. See it in action on this youtube-video. This is very slow compared to the CubeStormer, but looks like it can be built using only the NXT2.0-pack and doesn't need thousands of parts and multiple expensive NXT-logic-blocks.

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Tags: mindstorms, robotic
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# Question
Title: How can I keep LEGO winches from becoming tangled?
I have some LEGO winches/strings with hooks.

Putting these away inevitably results in tangled strings (the next time I take them out). Even winding them up doesn't help.

Storing these in drawers and/or shelves is not an option for me. I keep most of my LEGO collection in a LEGO Star Wars box.

Is there some way I could build other bricks onto these so they won't unwind?

# Answer
> 13 votes
I take 2 of these:

Place 2 pins in the holes

And then sandwich the loop of string between.

It works well and you likely have the pieces lying nearby.

# Answer
> 5 votes
i've put mine into one of these little film-cans:

very simple, but effective: that way they're easy to find and can fly around in a big LEGO-box with all the other bricks without getting tangled.

# Answer
> 1 votes
You could try wrapping the winch in a rubber band to prevent it from becoming unravelled.

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Tags: storage
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# Question
Title: How are the LEGO instruction manuals made?
I wish to know how the LEGO instruction manuals are made. What is the process currently used?

# Answer
> 11 votes
## How lego does it today.

I found little information about Autodesk Maya being the 3D modeling software being used. Here\`s a blurb about their current design process :

> Primary concept and development work takes place at the Billund headquarters, where the company employs approximately 120 designers. The company also has smaller design offices in the UK, Spain, Germany, and Japan, which are tasked with developing products aimed specifically at these markets.
>
> The average development period for a new product is around twelve months, in three stages.
>
> The first stage is to identify market trends and developments, including contact by the designers directly with the market; some are stationed in toy shops close to holiday periods, while others interview children.
>
> The second stage is the design and development of the product based upon the results of the first stage. As of September 2008 the design teams use 3D modeling software to generate CAD drawings from initial design sketches.
>
> The designs are then prototyped using an in-house stereolithography machine. These are presented to the entire project team for comment and for testing by parents and children during the "validation" process. Designs may then be altered in accordance with the results from the focus groups.
>
> Virtual models of completed Lego products are built concurrently with the writing of the user instructions. Completed CAD models are also used in the wider organization, such as for marketing and packaging.

Source : wikipedia

## How people do it themselves

LEGO provide software that does just that. Check for "LEGO Digital Designer" which allows to create a model, save a building manuals and buy the LEGO parts online.

Also check up this related question :"Do any programs exist that allow you to build own LEGO plans?"

For more information on how to create high quality computer images of LEGO models, check this question : "How can I create synthetic imagery (rendering) of lego models?"

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Tags: instructions
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title: What is a good ratio to buy bricks in?

text:
# Question
Title: What is a good ratio to buy bricks in?
I want to add to my collection by buying an assortment of 2x4,2x2,1x2, and 1x1 bricks in a variety of colors. I want these to be general purpose bricks, primarily for sculptures and buildings.

**What is a good ratio for parts?** For example, should I buy mostly 2x4s or 2x2s? What colors are used the most?

# Answer
> 9 votes
## Colours

It's difficult to tell which colours are used the most. I have six different colours of bricks that are I'd consider essential for every day city building:

* (Monochrome) Black & White
* (Primary) Red, Green & Blue
* (Secondary) Yellow

I chose these six colours because they are commonly sold in buckets and tubs and are widely available. They tend to have the best brick to price ratio around and they are also very versatile, you can build most models out of these six colours. They also happen to be the only six colours that can be recognised by a NXT/EV3 colour sensor.

As your collection builds, you get a better idea about what kind of things you like to build. A builder specialising in medieval models would probably find colours like grey and brown essential.

## Bricks

A good ratio of parts is variable depending on your needs.

Say for example I wanted to build a the wall in the image below, I'd require 40 1x2s and 8 1x1s. That would be a ratio of five 1x2's for every 1x1.

Of course, this isn't going to apply to everything you build, you'll need to make an educated guess based on what creation you're trying to make.

# Answer
> 3 votes
If you want to get a stock for building internal structure and the color isn't important, pick one which is cheaper. Blue is a good candidate, red isn't. Black should be OK too.

As for the sizes, there's no real way to answer that, but if building 2 studs wide, 2x4 is the one you'll need most, with a dash of 2x2 for ends. They are usually easiest to find and cheaper than longer ones.

For 1 stud wide building, you'll of course need some 1x1 for ends, but using only 2x2 can be cumbersome unless you want the effect (try a well in 1x2 dark red plates, it's superb), so then you'll want to stock on 1x4, 1x6 and 1x8. Again, check the prices per stud.

But if you're willing to buy big quantities and are after good prices, the simplest is to by full tubs - and then you don't need to worry about which ones you'll get as the assortment is fixed. You may also want to check specific creator sets for clearance (houses are a good source of 1x bricks).

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Tags: shopping
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# Question
Title: Which BIONICLE set did this mask came from?
I just unearthed a rather wealthy stash of semi-rare Great Kanohi masks. Never knew I collected them! Anyway, among them was this clear transparent Kaukau (Great Mask of Water Breathing):

You may recognize this mask in transparent blue as worn by Toa Gali and some Ga-Matoran (notably Hahli) on Mata Nui.

But what stumps me about this mask is the fact that it's not blue; it's *colorless*. I've looked in Peeron but it doesn't list this as one of the colors it occurred in.

Does anyone know which BIONICLE set this mask may have come from?

# Answer
> 10 votes
I found the answer while I was writing this question, but I'm posting question and answer just for dibs on the tag ;)

---

The Peeron page for that mask I just linked to lists the part number as **32571**. I do a search for the part number, and come across the Brickipedia page for that part. Scrolling down, I find the source:

> **Transparent:**

Apparently, I found this mask along with the numerous bronze and silver Great Kanohi masks in one of those mask packs.

Fun fact: this colorless Kaukau was designed to be wearable by Toa Kopaka, and possibly also the Ko-Matoran. The Toa is known to have had this mask equipped in BIONICLE Chronicles 1: Tale of the Toa, but it's not entirely clear if this is part of the canon. There aren't any named Ko-Matoran with this mask as far as I know.

---
Tags: piece-information, bionicle
---


# Question
Title: Why did Lego use the same number for two different sets?
For example, Ricky Racoon on his Scooter from 1979 is a completely different set from House with Garage from 1996, but they share the same number (324). Why did Lego recycle numbers like this? Do they contunue to re-use old numbers?

# Answer
> 16 votes
I recall someone asking this to a Danish employee at a public event in the US around 2003. In a very humble voice the LEGO employee simply said "We forgot." LEGO employees were admitting before that to using brickshelf for old instructions because they didn't have digital company archives yet.

It's possible they knew about the numbers and saw no problem with reusing the retired number. It's we obsessive fans that are the problem! When I was a kid, making my first LEGO master catalog, I was upset to discover 540 had been reused, for Swiss Villa, 1973 and Police Units, 1979 (before they assigned it to Basic Building Set, 1985. Argh!)

You can find many examples with this Peeron search Change the -2 to -3, etc to find more layers. Open a set, then edit the URL to -1 to see what it clobbered (sometimes Peeron has the newer set inventoried first as -1.)

So you can see how they are still doing it. But mostly it is done to impulse items, promos, basic bricks, and non-brick lines. I can't find a core set bumping off another set number after 2000 (see Scorpion Buggy for example.) Maybe they have stopped after that?

---
Tags: set-numbering
---


# Question
Title: Why do some sets have two different numbers?
> **Possible Duplicate:**
> Why did Lego use the same number for two different sets?

For example, 324 Ricky Racoon on his Scooter and 3605 Ricky Racoon and his Scooter appear to be identical in every way but the set number. So why did Lego use two different numbers?

# Answer
In some cases, there were different numbers for the USA and the rest of the world, but I don't know if that's the case with Ricky Racoon.

LEGO also extended from a 3-digit numbering to a 4-digit numbering around that time, so maybe some sets were renumbered. At the time, LEGO didn't seem to care that much about set numbers (and as you've noted, reused some).
> 6 votes

---
Tags: set-numbering
---


title: What is the bley (blay) color?

text:
# Question
Title: What is the bley (blay) color?
I keep reading on various lego web sites about an elusive brick color called "bley" or "blay". What is it and what is the story behind this?

# Answer
Around 2004 (if I remember correctly) LEGO changed the grey and dark grey colors. The colors before the change were the original grey colors which were in use from their introduction. They were somewhat warmer than the colors today, which was perceived as looking faded, though it had nothing to do with aging. Part of the problem was that the competition (Megabloks) was using more blueish greys, which made the LEGO greys look old.

The newer colors have a colder, blueish tone, and were widely disliked in the AFOL community, because most of the time they look awful if used together with the existing old grey pieces. Depending on the lighting it can also be quite hard to tell old and new greys apart.

Hence the term "bley" is used as a name for the new blueish grey.

BrickShelf
> 33 votes

# Answer
At some point, LEGO changed three of its staple colors: light gray, dark gray and brown. This was but the latest on a long series of traumatic changes imposed by the Danish company, and some fans couldn't stand it any more.

While some vowed to never touch LEGO again and some didn't really care, the vast majority, who knew they couldn't fight their addiction if they wanted, decided for a more half-hearted protest approach that consisted of amalgaming "blue" and "grey" to name the new colors "bley". They hoped to show LEGO how much the new color induced nausea to them, but eventually grew accustomed to it. And it's not like they had a choice anyway.

More seriously, LEGO called the new colors "medium stone grey", "dark stone grey" and "reddish brown", while the fans named them "light bluish gray", "dark bluish gray" and "reddish brown". Then LEGO produced "light stone grey", just to confuse everyone, but to their defense, if you name something "medium", it sort of implies it's not the end of the scale, doesn't it?
> 15 votes

---
Tags: terminology, colour
---


# Question
Title: What kind of metal/alloy were on the old LEGO 9V train tracks?
LEGO's train tracks (the actual rail part) were made from some kind of metal alloy that does not seem to oxidize, and seems to have good electrical charateristics (low resistance).

Any ideas what this might be?

# Answer
I'm not sure about LEGO, but Märklin, a company that specialized in building train models used simple stainless steel since 1982, chances are that LEGO did the same:

* Stainless steel is relatively cheap
* It doesn't oxidize (as the name implies)
* The electrical charateristics aren't good, but you don't need a very good (and expensive) material like copper for something "small" like toy train tracks (Märklin shows that it works)
* Märklin builT the electric "H0" trains since 1935, such an experienced company might have been a inspiring example when choosing a material

Like starblue said, nickel-siver might also be possible. Another indication of this speculation is the German Wikipedia entry wich says:

> Die Schienenprofile von Modelleisenbahnen \[...\] bestehen mitunter aus Neusilber \[...\]

Translated: "the rail profile of model railways \[...\] sometimes consist of nickel-silver \[...\]"
> 10 votes

# Answer
Maybe nickel silver, which would be a suitable material. But I only found a somewhat indirect claim on the german site 1000steine.
> 3 votes

---
Tags: trains, manufacturing, 9v
---


# Question
Title: LEGO Safety: Known risks and how to avoid them?
I run an after school program that teaches engineering to kids, mainly Kindergarten through 3rd grade (roughly ages 5 - 9). I'm trying to educate my coaches as to the known safety risks regarding using LEGO bricks, so that they can be forewarned and can take steps to avoid them. I think reading about specific, known cases, would be most helpful, along with any non-obvious preventative measures.

Anything that applies to class-safety would probably apply to home safety, too.

# Answer
> 14 votes
The most obvious risk is swallowing parts, even though at that age it's probably less likely to happen. Magnets are the most dangerous, but LEGO has done a good job of hiding them recently.

Projectiles are also a risk, whether they are intended as such or not. Actual LEGO lauching machanisms (zamor spheres launchers, for example) can be quite dangerous and there's always an icon in the instructions to warn children of that risk.

Electrical parts can be hazardous, in particular if liquids are close. Although LEGO does a good job of protecting its parts (I've heard PF motors run wel even underwater), be particularly careful of mains adapters.

Spinning parts. It's fun, until you pinch you finger between two fast-spinning gears. Why do you think the saw blade first introduced with exo-force doesn't have a cross axle hole?

Pointy parts. LEGO tries to make them as soft as possible nowadays, or rubbery when possible.

And then there's the possible frustration of not being able to make the exact same creation that you have in mind.

# Answer
> 11 votes
1. **Make sure the kids avoid separating pieces with their teeth.** Give them some brick separator tools and teach them to use them.
2. **Sharing is very important!** You don't want another kid bopping someone in the head because they stole their piece. If you don't have enough of a certain piece for everyone then don't include that piece.
3. **If using projectiles only use 1 missile at a time.** Safer to go 1 at a time than having 50 at a time. Also remember that kids only need the "cannon" while designing, not the missile.

# Answer
> 8 votes
If possible, give the kids large, rimmed trays (or even the lids from storage boxes) to keep their loose elements in.

This will reduce the number of pieces that fall on the floor and get stepped, knelt or sat on.

# Answer
> 8 votes
Never fire bricks towards another persons face. There are certain sets that provide mechanisms to fire bricks such as the Agents: Gold Hunt set. The missiles are rubber tipped to minimise damage.

If your school students are tasked with a project that involves projectiles I'd make sure they wear safety goggles, Especially if it involves non-lego parts or motors.

# Answer
> 6 votes
Don't lift too many bricks at one time. Being slightly older, I find a bag full of bricks can actually get heavy. I recently pulled a back muscle lifting a bag of 9,000 bricks. Hmmm, need to lift with my knees!

Granted, most people won't encounter this problem, I'm just saying....

---
Tags: safety
---


title: Where can I find LEGO technic pieces?

text:
# Question
Title: Where can I find LEGO technic pieces?
I love the design by me software, but there are too few LEGO Technic pieces.

Do you know somes places (in Europe) where I can find LEGO Technic pieces without buying sets ?

# Answer
Directly from LEGO:

Third party:

bricklink is cheaper in most cases, on both you can choose and buy only the pieces you really need.
> 7 votes

# Answer
I'll pretend I didn't read the "without bying sets" part.

**Go buy some!**

Seriously, this is the simplest way to acquire good packs of assorted Technic parts, and if you haven't got much experience with Technic yet, building the models is a great way to learn.

Of course, some models are better than others in terms of assortment provided , but I don't know for sure what's the best value for money at the moment. Whether you want electric or pneumatic parts will play a role, as will possible clearances in your area.

If you can find a LEGO education reseller, they also carry Technic parts packs, but BrickLink is probably going to be cheaper anyway (you can filter by country, too — buying from someone in your country is usually easier and cheaper).
> 2 votes

---
Tags: technic, shopping
---


# Question
Title: Under what conditions are the LEGO boardgame dice unfair, and by how much?
For LEGO's board game line, they have moulded a LEGO die, with a 2x2 stud pattern on each side.

Obviously, weight distribution is going to be thrown off if you use a full studless plate on one side and four 1x1 studless plates on another because of the kerf.

Experimentally (by constructing different dice and rolling hundreds of times) or analytically (by analyzing the weight distribution of different plate configurations), how unfair can this die be assuming all studs are covered by a studless plate? What can be done to minimize the unfairness?

# Answer
**Conditions for unfairness:**

* Different shaped tiles applied to each side resulting in different weight wich maked the dice "biased."

**Example:**

The maximum difference in weight (when all studs get covered) is one side using a 2x2 tile, and another side is using 4 1x1 tiles. the weight difference in this case is calculated based on using these measurements. To show the difference:

```
X X X X X X X X X X
X       . .       X
X       . .       X
X       . .       X
X . . . . . . . . X
X . . . . . . . . X
X       . .       X
X       . .       X
X       . .       X
X X X X X X X X X X

```

`X` = borders
`.` = border from the 1x1 tiles that are missing using a 2x2 tile

So there are `~ 28 legounits³` = `44.8 mm³` difference in material used. ABS, the material used for LEGO bricks has a density of between `1.04` and `1.12 g/cm³` so `44.8 mm³` have a maximum height of:

```
1.12g/cm³ / 1000mm³ * 44.8mm³ = 0.050176g

```

**`0.05 g`** would be way too much for a precision-dice used in a casino, but for a "toy" it's almost nothing (it's less than 1% of the die's total weight - I'd like to calculate that, but I can't find information about its weight), so I won't expect anyone to notice the LEGO-dice is "unfair".

**EDIT:**
Found the dice on bricklink. weight: `8.02 g`, so the `0.05 g` are just `~ 0.6 %` of the total weight.
> 14 votes

---
Tags: manufacturing, lego-games, weight
---


# Question
Title: How do I create manuals in the same style as LEGO instruction manuals?
> **Possible Duplicate:**
> Do any programs exist that allow you to build your own LEGO manuals?

I want to create my own manuals, but I want them to look and feel like actual LEGO instruction manuals. So, I probably need a style guide and / or tool that helps me to achieve this. Are these tools and style guides available?

# Answer
> 4 votes
The online consensus on this question seems to be using LDraw, and progressively create the model while saving the steps (like this tutorial explains).

However, I remember an other way, but I can't put .. oh wait, it was using MLCad.

# Answer
> 2 votes
LPub is a program designed specifically to produce step-by-step construction documentation from LDraw files. I haven't tried it myself (it's Windows-only) but I believe most of the fan-created instructions out there are made with it.

Edit: As Retracile notes in his answer to a similar question there is a newer version, LPub 4, which also supports Mac.

---
Tags: tools, instructions
---


# Question
Title: How much weight can a handle of Technic pegs and beams support?
Some Lego spaceships have handles attached, made out of Technic beam and pegs, and attached to the model using Technic bricks, pegs, and axles.

For example, 7644: MX-81 Hypersonic Operations Aircraft has a handle on the top (circled below), and the shuttle in 7690: MB-01 Eagle Command Base has a small handle on the bottom side.

This handle is great for play, transport, and mounting, and I'd like to incorporate this feature into my own designs. However, I don't know what a safe number of pegs and beams is relative to the weight of the model. To be really useful, it needs to support not just the weight of the model, but a reasonable amount of centrifugal force caused by rapid course adjustments as it flies around my living room. Are there official Lego Group guidelines on this, or has someone done a study of the strength of peg-and-beam constructions?

# Answer
Tristan Lostroh did an exhaustive test of both studded beams and stud-less beams with and without connections. Here are his results:

> * Studless beams are better in tension than studded
> * Studded beams are better in transverse than studless
> * Studless beams are stronger in transverse with the pins on the side
> * Connections to other components will fail before the beam (Either connections themselves or the connection area of the beam)(IE the (unstressed) centre of the beam will not fail)
> * Pin connections will probably pull apart before they fail catastrophically
> * The more pins, the stronger the connection
> * In transverse 3 pin overlap, with 2 pins used is almost as strong as 3 pin overlap and 3 pins used
> * Beams in transverse conditions won’t fail (but will bend) if the pivot points match the end of the connection
> * Lego is quite strong for its weight

From the report it looks like two beams linked with 5 pins will break at about 57lb of transverse force.

**Edit**: Just for the fun of it I calculated this 'real life' scenario. Imagine a kid with 40cm arms spinning around a 2lb Lego ship. To create the 57lb of centrifugal force necessary to break the handle he would have to turn at 252rpm. I don't think any amount of sugar can do that.
> 26 votes

---
Tags: technic, building, durability
---


title: How can I make custom LEGO packaging?

text:
# Question
Title: How can I make custom LEGO packaging?
How can I print high-quality custom packaging for a custom-made model?

I am aware of DesignByMe. But as many of you know, the pieces for that are limited, as are the options for making your own box.

If I have six images that I can apply to each face, what techniques can I use for getting the images on a real box, and where do you recommend getting a box most like those sold by LEGO?

# Answer
> 7 votes
Maybe a search for custom box design although I doubt they'd make small volumes either. It would look very professional, though.

What I've seen fans selling custom kits doing is using simple white boxes with stickers on them. Usually the buyers are more interested in the contents anyway. Sticker printing shouldn't be a problem (as it's going to be put on cardboard a simple inkjet-sticker sheet should do), and I assume plain white boxes shouldn't be too hard to find.

An laternative would be to print your images on cardboard which you can fold yourself, but then you'll need to think properly about placement of images. If the cardboard is thin, you can use it as an outer shell for an inner white box which would be more solid. 3mm cardboard may be overkill, but that's the general idea.

# Answer
> 4 votes
For our lead singer's birthday, his sister created this lego kit which came in two boxes, one for the band, one for the...accessory. All in their own baggies.

She printed the images onto normal paper, then glued these to thin cardboard boxes.

They came out looking absolutely brilliant - feel free to compare with the real thing at www.metaltech.me

---
Tags: manufacturing, customization
---


# Question
Title: How do I build a sloped roof with a 60° rake?
I've seen the sloped roof on the "Winter Village Post Office" and similar using plates, and I want to build a roof with a similar angle:

What should I use to ensure they are well attached?

# Answer
See the instruction for that set on pages 56-59, 65 and 68/69 for the 3 different roofs of it.

they're using a different technique and different pieces for all of them, so this perfectly shows up some alternatives (technic-like parts for the big roof to the right, blocks with studs on the sides for the small 90°-roofs and 1x1 with clips for the roof to the left).
> 21 votes

# Answer
In the past, LEGO produced a perfect element for this:

It's probably hard to find in big quantities now, so I give it more for reference than anything. I wish LEGO would still produce it though (not to mention its educative value).
> 16 votes

# Answer
To keep it simple I would use hinges placed on top of the wall, connect the roof plates and angle them to fit.

\<-- or --\>

**Edit**: You could even add a small plate hinge at the roof ridge, under the roof plates. This would keep them from separating.
> 15 votes

---
Tags: building, angles
---


# Question
Title: Where can I get 'classic' Lego heads from?
The new heads with expressions are all well and good, but I for one prefer the expressionless 'classic' faces.

Are they available anywhere?

# Answer
The well known, smiling, gender-neutral multifigure head can be bought on auction sites like Bricklink.

The classic faces are still in production now and are on the minifig or every set in the modular series. (The Grand Emporium alone has seven of these heads) As well as other modern classics like the carousel, winter toy shop and town plan.

Up to five of these heads can be found in most editions of the Vintage Minifigure Collection.
> 13 votes

# Answer
bricklink has links to most lego bricks, new as old.

Something like this head?
> 9 votes

---
Tags: minifigures, shopping
---


# Question
Title: How many spaceman minifigure variations exist?
I was looking at collecting all the different Spaceman minifigures. So I'm wondering how many different types(styles) of Spaceman do exist. Color variations is not necessarily but it would also be interesting to know that.

Note: Only astronauts (not robots & aliens)

So far I only have those three:

# Answer
A full list of space related minifigures can be found on Bricklink here as well as under the Town theme. If you count fantasy themes there are also many astronaut minifigures under Alien Conquest, Blacktron, Life on Mars, Mars Mission, Space Police, etc...

There is also the Spaceman from the 1st Collectible Minifigure series.
> 11 votes

# Answer
They also used the following helmet variation in Series 1 of the Minifigures set:

I also have the limited edition orange Lego Universe Spaceman that can be seen here:

Neither of these came with backpacks.

There is also now the Minifigures "Galaxy Patrol" style spaceman which started appearing in Series 8:

This combined a new helmet with the much enhanced backpack/shoulder armour element.
> 3 votes

# Answer
Not sure if you would include the Futuron Astronaut or Classic Space Astronaut in this list (image courtesy of http://www.toplessrobot.com/2009/05/the\_30\_greatest\_lego\_minifigs\_of\_all\_time.php?page=2):

I had several of these as a kid - I remember black, blue, yellow, and red variants.
> 3 votes

---
Tags: minifigures, space
---


# Question
Title: Alternative products compatible with LEGO
I heard that lately a patent for LEGO expired and now everyone can create a company to produce bricks that are compatible with LEGO.

I am wondering how many of such companies are there.

I know one from my country, Cobi. Can you point me another alternatives?

# Answer
> 12 votes
there are at least:

Note that some of this only produce custom accessories for minifigs, very small sets or exact copies of the official sets, no own really "big" sets like LEGO does

# Answer
> 3 votes
Here are a few:

# Answer
> 1 votes
Brickarms makes nice custom Lego-compatible weapons, accessories, and minifigures.

---
Tags: patent
---


# Question
Title: What is inside the "weight element" brick?
I own a few bricks that contain a weight inside of them. 52g according to Lego.

What exactly is inside of these bricks that makes them heavy?

# Answer
I did the unthinkable! ...I had to know.

I opened one of my two weighted bricks. One of the two ends has a glued on cap that I've cut around using an utility knife.

The piece of metal it contains fit almost perfectly in the cavity. I don't know metals but it has a rainbowish kind of sheen to it. Here's a close up:

I'm now gluing it back with super glue.
> 37 votes

# Answer
I had two of these bricks in red, one is broken (one of the side-caps dropped off): there's just a piece of galvanized iron/steel in it.

My blocks were bought about 19 years ago, so maybe they changed the weight to an other/cheaper material in the meantime, but I don't think so.
> 13 votes

# Answer
I'm fairly sure it's one or two pieces of iron, but I would need to check with someone who actually opened one. You can easily check that it's a *ferrous* metal if it attracts magnets.
> 6 votes

---
Tags: piece-information, weight
---


# Question
Title: What kind of activities can I expect to find at a LEGO Kids Fest?
There is a LEGO Kid's Fest coming to my community soon, but I noticed that the admission price is steep ($20.00 for each adult). What kind of activities can I expect for the kids?

Link to LEGO Kids Fest Website

# Answer
> 8 votes
The available activities vary from city to city, but are listed on that city's page under "Fun Activities". According to the site, they do not vary notably from day to day.

Some common elements at all the events which are not regular at other Lego attractions are:

> **Creation Nation** \- Build your own LEGO creation to add to a huge map of the United States. In the days following the event, come back to the website to see photos of the completed map.
>
> **Big Brick Pile** \- Mix children's imagination with a big pile of brick -- more loose brick than you've seen anywhere else -- and you'll be amazed by the results.
>
> **Mystery Mural Build** \- Join fellow LEGO KidsFest attendees and contribute to a giant piece of LEGO artwork. Assemble a small, color-coded tile of LEGO bricks and add it to the Mystery Mural. As the weekend progresses, the picture develops. In the days following the event, come back to the website to see photos of the final result!

As well as the standard model displays, building areas, race ramps, and store you'll find at Legoland Discovery Centers, Legoland parks, or regular Lego stores.

---
Tags: events
---


# Question
Title: Historically, what types of sets have proven to be a great investment?
My brother recently sold some of the lego he had as a child, and they went for a *lot* more than they cost originally, even taking inflation into account.

So, what *types* of sets have risen in value most over the years?

# Answer
The less sets there are available, the better the chances of a rising price. This implies the sets that will get more expensive with time are:

* Sets that are or very close to being out of production
* Sets that are expensive when they come out (\> less sales)
* Very large sets (expensive \> less sales)
* Licensed sets like Harry Potter or Star Wars (short production-time \> less sales / collector's value)
* Sets with unique/limited parts or colors like the maersk-ships
* Collector's editions

But note that it's never so easy - licensed but small sets for example won't become very expensive as they usually sell very well, so you should look for a set with a combination of this criteria. For example: a very big licensed set like the Millennium Falcon.
> 8 votes

---
Tags: investment, value
---


# Question
Title: How can I automate orders from Lego Pick-a-Brick?
Is there a way to automate the process of ordering from Lego's online Pick-a-Brick? I'd like to be able to go from a .csv with part IDs to a filled cart on their site, or even all the way through to a placed order. Are there any options short of using a web testing/automation framework to drive the site?

# Answer
> 11 votes
I believe that many AFOL user groups had previously been able to buy in bulk from LEGO, but I don't know if that's still an option with the release of pick-a-brick - however as Joubarc points out there are often limits on the number of different elements, as well as a group limit on the number of bricks. Couple that with the fact that the process often takes months to deliver, and it's not an easy option.

Another option would be to take it offline: the LEGO catalogue often lists Pick-a-Brick elements and has a postal order form, so you could format that up in your spreadsheet application of choice and mail it in.

Doing a quick snoop around the network traffic when adding items from Pick-a-Brick shows that currently it uses a fairly simple post to submit the details to the basket:

```
ba     0
bricks 4239601,1          <- ElementId,quantity
cat    UK
id     4239601,1          <- ElementId,quantity
sid    0.4886243118128015

```

So something could possibly be created, but as Joubarc points out, there's no guarantee that the site would continue this way.

---
Tags: shopping, software, pick-a-brick
---


# Question
Title: Starting out with trains: PF, RC, 9v or what?
I've always wanted Lego trains as a child, but never had any. However, now my son is old enough to appreciate them, I thought I might invest in some 2nd hand sets. The problem is, what standard to settle on?

Growing up, I always wanted to go 9v because of the automatic points etc. but is it still worthwhile going that route since Lego have long since stopped producing compatible hardware?

# Answer
> 15 votes
If you opt for an older system which isn't produced anymore, it's going to be very hard for you to reach a decent collection and maintain it. Even 9v which was only recently been discontinued will be hard to find, especially straight tracks.

Also, 9V points were **not** automated, so if you really want automated points, you'll have to go back to 12v, which is even older and harder to get in quantities (not to mention the parts become fragile).

Rolling stock will usually be fairly compatible since the gauge has always been the same, and magnets have always been used as coupling mechanism. So there you can buy whatever you find.

And if it's for your son, keep in mind that other relatives (granparents for example) may be less informed than you and will tend to just buy whatever they find in stores. So if you go for a 9v layout but your kids receives PF tracks, he won't be too happy, much to the chagrin of the relative.

On the contrary, if you opt for plastic-only Power Function trains, even if someone manages to buy you 9v track, you can use it as is, it's fully compatible. Also, the flexible track part is easy for a kid to work with and not bother too much about whether the layout will work or not, something which can't be said for older systems where you would sometimes need to draw your layout in advance to know if the geometry would make sense.

In short, I think it's easiest for a kid to just embrace the new Power Function trains, but stay clear of the two "RC" trains which weren't too good.

(Of course, for a very young child, Duplo trains might be a good choice too ;-)

---
Tags: trains
---


# Question
Title: Does Lego market sets that were designed by fans?
My {son, daughter} read on a LEGO box that the set was designed by a LEGO fan. That is amazing! Is this common and how does my {son, daughter} get into that?

What sets were designed by fans so far?

# Answer
In addition of the already mentionned Blacksmith shop and the three first LEGO factory sets (5524 — Airport, 5525 — Amusement park and 5526 — Skyline, combined from the 10 winners entries of the contest), the following sets have been designed by fans:

Also, you have to keep in mind that the line between high-profile AFOL and LEGO designer is becoming very thin, and some people have crossed that line (Pierre Normandin, for example). As such, can't it be said that the sets they design now are created by fans? Designers are fans in their own right!

Also, in addition of the fans-turned-designers, LEGO does invite fans for workshops from time to time. Theire influence on 10194 — Emerald Night for instance is obvious, if only for them pushing LEGO to make big train wheels.

So, the line between fan and designer is blurry, and that's for the better.
> 14 votes

# Answer
If I recall correctly, it started in 2007 with LEGO's initiative called LEGO Factory, where fans were invited to compete in designing models using LEGO Digital Designer. The winners would then have their entries made into the very first fan-designed commercial LEGO sets.

Today, LEGO Factory is superseded by Design by Me. It follows a similar concept, except not in a competitive sense but a personal sense. This means you or your child can use LDD to design a set, share it, and even create custom box art for it, and have it ship right to your door, just as if you ordered a set from the LEGO online store itself.

I believe there were previous events that resulted in fan creations being marketed and mass-produced, but models created in the Factory competition and Design by Me initiative are not mass-produced.
> 10 votes

# Answer
Set 3739 Blacksmith Shop was created by adult fan creation by Daniel Siskind, and was marketed by Lego in 2002. It was the first in the My Own Creation series.
> 5 votes

# Answer
Lego Cusoo is a website where you can upload pictures of your creations, and if they get enough followers,votes, they can be made into official set by Lego. (The current requirement is 10k votes) The first model mass produced was the Shinkai 6500. To date, several more models have been released, including the Hayabusa satellite, a Minecraft set, Back to the Future, and the Mars Curiosity rover.(in order)

* Shinkai 6500
> 3 votes

# Answer
The Lego Design byMe program offers the opportunity to design, build, and purchase custom Lego sets by utilizing the Lego Digital Designer software.
> 1 votes

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Tags: design, sets
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title: What does SNIR stand for?

text:
# Question
Title: What does SNIR stand for?
I know that SNOT means "Studs Not On Top", but I've also seen "SNIR" used, often in the same context as SNOT, but clearly different - what does it mean?

# Answer
> 18 votes
SNIR is the abbreviation for "**S**tuds **N**ot **I**n a **R**ow" - almost self-explaining, but for more information, take a look at this small article.

> \[...\] very useful on walls and other things. In Lego, studs (nubs, dots, etc.) are in a row, and a straight one. Using SNIR makes studs be in zigzags or diagonal lines. \[...\]

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Tags: terminology, snir
---


# Question
Title: Is there a logic to the way The LEGO Group fills the plastic bags?
When opening a new box, most of the pieces are in closed plastic bags, and sometimes inside those plastic bags is another plastic bag for smaller pieces.

I find the pieces, for the most part, rather random. Sometimes a particular brick shows up in more than one bag.

It seems like an odd way to make sure all of the pieces are there in the box, and yet, a box is rarely, if ever, missing a brick.

Any rhyme or reason to how Lego packages the pieces for a new set?

# Answer
> 13 votes
The goals for packaging are most likely efficiency and dependability. I would think LEGO's interest is to achieve this using an automated process. This explains why a missing piece is a very rare event.

* Size concerns: Similar piece volume in each bags.
* Sub packaging symmetry: Same bag used several time in a box.
* QA is done by weighting bags. Extra (small) pieces are favored over the occasional missing piece.

Check this video on the lego plant automation.

# Answer
> 14 votes
The main goal is certainly packaging efficiency (possibly where parts come from in the factory, for example), but there are other factors coming in.

Sets which have "modular" building need to have numbered bags, and the numbering has prioity on other considerations — you'll need all bricks for module 1 to be in bags numbered "1" (plus sometimes, unbagged parts).

Also, elements which are too similar are usually in different bags. This helps finding them when building, but another reason for that might be the random checks which are done on bag contents during the packaging process, as I believe these are manual.

Sometimes, if an element is in huge quantity in a set, it can also get its own bag; and as jfyelle says, sometimes a same bag can appear twice in a set — it's easier for packaging than two bags with different contents.

# Answer
> 6 votes
This way of packaging is most likely optimized to prevent packaging errors. One of the leading method is the poka-yoke technique.

> Poka-yoke is a technique for avoiding simple human error in the workplace.

By using jigs, automated(robotic) counting and other means this method aims to eliminate errors in a repetitive workflow.

# Answer
> 0 votes
Yes. In the instructions, you will see a big number 1 or 2. These numbers are also printed on the bags. So all the parts you need for section 1 will be in bag 1, all the parts for section 2 will be in bag 2, etc.

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Tags: manufacturing, packaging
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# Question
Title: How strong are blocks in general - is adhesive necessary when building large structures?
I'm really intrigued by all the amazing bridge architecture and designs people come up with (for example: Lego Cable Stayed Bridge) and it got me wondering, do larger structures like that *need* any form of adhesive between the bricks? Are bricks (in general) strong enough to hold larger structures on their own?

# Answer
Such structures in LEGOland parks are usually reinforced with a metallic structure hidden within the model. And they use glue. No wonder LEGO sold them away.

Some fans do use similar tricks, I've seen some make trees by embedding a wooden skewer in a trunk of 1x1 round bricks. Without that, the tree would collapse too often, and that's not even a large structure to start with. (Purists would use rigid 3mm LEGO hoses)

For a pure LEGO structure, in any case you would need to make sure not to rely on clutch power only, but I suppose you guessed as much already. As stack of 1x2 bricks won't hold, a length of interleaved 1x2 plates will be sturdier. Depending on the length, you'll need more layers, but that's about it.

I doubt adhesive would help that much — glue maybe, but let's not go there.

There\`s the question "How much weight can a handle of Technic pegs and beams support?" covering the principles for structures. You can find a mechanical stress study right here.
> 11 votes

# Answer
For building anything of normal Lego size, the bricks generally stick together nicely if you overlap your bricks during construction. If you are making something of great size, walls of 2 or 4 dots using an overlapping pattern will produce something quite strong.

Because of the shape of Legos, they are weakest when pulled from the bottom. They are designed to rely on Gravity for strength, not to work against it. So, if you move something heavy, the bottom of the model must be supported or a portion of it will likely pull loose.

And of course, if you are building something permanent, like in Legoland park, the suggestions above to glue and support the internal structure are valid. But for typical home use, it is unnecessary.
> 2 votes

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Tags: bridge, glue
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# Question
Title: How can I easily remove a jumper plate without a brick separator?
How can I easily remove a jumper plate?

I find it very difficult to remove this kind of brick with a brick separator.

# Answer
> 28 votes
A 1x1x5 brick has enough leverage to remove most jumper plates. Apply pressure to the top of the brick and pull or push away from the length of the jumper plate.

Even a 1x1 brick works in certain cramped places, although It doesn't provide as much leverage.

# Answer
> 14 votes
I'll try to show how I'd do this using a 2×12 plate (or something similar). Imagine you're looking at it from the side:

```
      n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_ --> Pull     | narrow, long plate
     _n_                                    | jumper plate
_n_n_n_n_n_n_                               | baseplate

```

`n` = stud

Just attach a plate or brick to the top of the jumper and push it to the side so it will tip over.

*PS: I hope the ASCII-art makes clear what I tried to explain - I don't have a LEGO-designer here at work*

# Answer
> 7 votes
Use the new Jumper Tile 2.0 instead! Easier to remove! Comes in many1 colors2! Advanced features3! Comes in many colours4! Lighter than the old, clumsy version!

Don't wait, contact your closest LEGO reseller to upgrade your collection of obsolete jumpers to new, shiny ones!

1. Three.
2. U.S. version only.
3. The same as Jumper 1.0, plus Easier removal
4. U.K. version only.

---

Seriously though, LEGO just added a groove on jumpers, see the difference:

Which admittedly doesn't help you right now, but at least you can take comfort in knowing LEGO adressed the issue somehow.

# Answer
> 6 votes
Use the new brick separator:

...when it becomes available.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Place a regular 1x2 plate on top of it (the hollow stud of the jumper plate fits around the post in the bottom of the 1x2), and apply lateral force to the combination. They should come off together. Then rotate the two to separate them from each other.

# Answer
> 1 votes
There are a few parts that can be used in place of a brick separator

This won't help with jumper plates in the middle of baseplates, but can be useful in other situations.

Original here.

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Tags: tools, disassembly
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# Question
Title: What is the basis of purism in LEGO building?
LEGO purism is the idea that LEGO constructions should be made with only with official LEGO blocks with no modifications. Other bits of plastic, papercraft, metal supports, and so on are frowned upon.

**What is the reasoning to why one might build using solely LEGO elements?** Is there something *particular* about LEGO as a building toy to which inspires this way of thinking?

# Answer
I'm not too sure how to answer that. I don't want to modify any brick whatsoever myself, save for the occasional eletrical wire cut, but on the other hand I don't really care what other people do.

Considering LEGO designers aren't purist themselves (Need this part in green? Ok, I'll paint a yellow one.), why bother? Why not cut your own baseplates to the dimensions you want, when you know LEGO produces them exactly the same way, by cutting large sheets?

Then again you have different levels of purism. Part modifications. Non-LEGO usage. Non-LEGO stickers usage. Brick printing. Brick engraving. \*cough\*Glue\*cough\*. MegaBloks. And frankly, to each his or her own.

What I *can* say however is why I'm mostly a purist myself, if that's of any help. I don't want to modify bricks, or use anything non-LEGO, simply because **I feel it would be cheating**. **I see building as a challenge**, and each challenge has its own rules and limitations. If the part I would need to build something does not exist, then I have the additionnal challenge of finding another way to build so that I don't need it. And that's the thrill I get from LEGO building: finding the right *existing* part to suit my needs.

But then again, I'm not purist enough to care about what others do. Sure, I'll point a finger at them, but it's all in good fun.

Of course, glue will get you more than finger-pointing. Heretic!
> 20 votes

# Answer
> Is there something particular about LEGO as a building toy which inspires this way of thinking?

Of course. LEGO is reusable. It's high-quality, durable, and you expect it to last many years. You might keep a construction together for some time, but always with the potential of being disassembled and turned into something else. Modifications like painting, cutting, or gluing are no longer reversible. You only make these changes when you're sure you don't need those pieces in their original state.

Have I irreversibly modified LEGO? Yes: I've made small stickers, painted minifigs, or used a few bricks in a permanent decorative piece. Nor do I really feel I have to use *only* LEGO. I would add a paper umbrella, a cardboard backdrop, a styrofoam support—anything I was sure wouldn't harm my bricks. On the other hand, I don't think I could bear to glue or paint a whole structure. (That's what other building toys and strategies are for, like modelmaking, dollhouse furniture, or model railroad set construction.)

To me, construction of something too permanent would subvert one of the reasons I love LEGO. There's always a bit of hidden potential: I might need those pieces for the next thing I'm dreaming about building...
> 13 votes

# Answer
This IS a subjective question and answer, but here is my take speaking as someone who got a start with LEGO toys in the 80's it came down to this:

1. The minifigs for non-LEGO brands were terrible and incompatible! Nothing beats the lovable, quirky shape to the official minifigs. You often had to construct differently for the different dimensions of the non-LEGO figures, or toss them out.
2. Non-LEGO brands at the time would snap together with official LEGO pieces, but the fit was different: either too much or not enough friction.
3. At the time: LEGO had the dominant brand, therefore, most of your pieces were likely to be LEGO brand, so the fewer pieces of the non-LEGO brand would be annoying for reasons 1 & 2.
4. LEGO was the original brand. There is nostalgia in it like real Coke vs store brand cola.
> 10 votes

# Answer
> **What is the reasoning to why one might build using solely LEGO?** Is it just an affectation, or is there some deeper meaning? Is there something particular about LEGO as a building toy to which inspires this way of thinking? I am interesting in understanding both sides of the argument.

I agree that this question is highly subjective, but it reminds me of several discussions that I've heard or participated in.

Many of the purists that I've spoken with have mentioned that they've enjoyed the challenge of building something with a limited palette. The restriction to only use LEGO parts challenged their creativity and forced them to work around issues without using non-LEGO parts that would make the project "easier." As other posters have noted, they felt that using non-LEGO parts was "cheating" - a highly personal opinion.

One other factor that some purists have mentioned is that this restriction to use only LEGO parts also permits **any other** LEGO builder to replicate their project, if so desired. Some of these builders were scientists, and they liked the idea of being able to reproduce a project.

I've also observed a sliding scale of purism - ranging from the use of only LEGO parts but permitting the use of glue/stickers to the use of only official LEGO parts/stickers.

On the other hand, my non-purist friends just want to make cool projects and don't care what parts or techniques they might use to accomplish their goals.

Again, there's no right or wrong answer, but I found that the purists enjoyed the challenge and wanted to allow others to replicate their work, while non-purists just liked the joy of building.
> 6 votes

# Answer
> Is there something particular about LEGO as a building toy to which inspires this way of thinking?

No - it's just the way humans are. At a very basic psychological level we make distinctions based on the most arbitrary criteria. In many activities, a 'purist' group will emerge, as will an 'extreme' one etc.

I think I have been mostly a purist, but that is just because there are so many things you can do with basic sets that I haven't needed to modify.

I am a definite purist though when it comes to the merchandise LEGO kits (like the star wars ones, or any with a piece that can have only one use - a cockpit canopy, or a strange wing element, for example) - I reckon keeping it old school is much better :-)
> 3 votes

# Answer
IMHO: It's a matter of quality, physics & imagination. To me, non LEGO elements visualy "clank" when viewed amongst a LEGO scene. I can't stand Megablocks. The pieces are inconsistant & quality control is poor when measured by the LEGO standards. As for what lurks beneath the surface of a LEGO model, well, I suppose it all depends on what you are making. Some models require creative solutions. Hidden frames & underlying supports certainly reduce the number of unseen pieces required in a display & give you the ability to flex your LEGO imagination by freeing those elements up so you can add them to your build.

Now my answer to the question: LEGO elements seem to flow and blend nicely. Their quality is excelent, and the overall playing experience is satisfying. Mixing in other elements into a LEGO build somehow seems to reduce the visual impact of the model. So, I say it's the outside that counts. Master Builders may use shims, but friends don't let friends use Megablocks.
> 3 votes

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Tags: history, sociology
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# Question
Title: Can Lego soccer (football) parts be used for anything other than soccer?
I had the Lego soccer field, but took it apart. What else can the parts be used for besides soccer? I'm specifically wanting to know about the green bases and minifigure stands.

# Answer
> 9 votes
The green parts are great to make a green smooth field, which is kinda obvious. Landscaping is one usage, and if you find it too uniform, don't forget you can cover some areas with additionnal hills or whatever. The Technic hole in there can come handy as you can easily attach something in it. Since it'll rotate freely, your added decoration can even be placed at an angle. Trees come to mind too: you can attach them to the Technic hole too, and maybe fill the green curved area with brown 1x1 round plates to symbolize earth.

The fact that it's green isn't always the most important aspect; sometimes you'll just need a big horizontal flat surface just for its flatness. I've used some of these parts (tan ones) to create a flat layer udner a SNOT river (basically a wall of blue bricks on the side). Doing that with 2x2 tiles would have been cumbersome, and more importantly I could use parts which I usually have no use for. In my specific case, the fact that they can be attached on duplo bricks was a plus.

The minifig stands aren't that much useful, but the spring in them means you can hope to build interesting mechanisms, especially projectile ones. Have a look at the instructions of set 7020 — Army of Vikings with Heavy Artillery Wagon, the designer of that set did an excellent missile launcher with it.

Don't get me started on what to do with the soccer balls.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Bricklinks information about Sports Minifig Stand, has information on where it's used in some sets that are not sports-related. For example:

I don't own any of these sets, so I don't know exactly *how* this piece is used in there - maybe someone else can give information about that.

The Sports Field Section 8 x 8 has only been used for Sports sets (soccer and basketball).

# Answer
> 3 votes
The minifigure stands make great commodes if you ever build a scene with a restroom.

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Tags: piece-usage
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# Question
Title: Can I get LEGO compatible wheels 3cm in diameter or bigger?
I want to make a formula one car at least 30 cm in length out of standard LEGO parts. None of the LEGO wheels I have are big enough for this scale. Where can I get some big wheels that would look ok? The big tires here are too big. I looked on BrickLink, but just got confused.

# Answer
> 4 votes
You may want to have a look at some official LEGO sets of that scal to check what LEGO has been using.

For example, 2556-1 — SHELL Promotional Set F1 Ferrari seems to be about that length and uses 49mm diameter wheels and tires.

A similar wheel can be found in more recent sets, such as 8041 — Race Truck, which may be cheaper.

You can also look in the specific section for wheels on BrickLink for other sizes.

# Answer
> 5 votes
`Wheel 30.4 x 14 VR` with the tire is ~3 cm (the 30.4 and 14 is mm). It also looks good for sports cars.

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Tags: vehicle
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# Question
Title: Is there a database of original Minifigure configurations, including their personal gear?
Is there a minifigure museum? I have a gallon jar (& more) of minifigures that my kids have mixed and matched. Is there a website I can reference in order to put the minifigures back in their original configurations (including their gear)?

# Answer
The website Brickset.com has an extensive database of sets, digital copies of instructions and a Minifig database built in cooperation with Bricklink. The layout and style may be a little more user friendly than the Bricklink catalogue and if you register on the site you can keep track of your collection.
> 11 votes

# Answer
The Unofficial LEGO Minifigure Catalog lists every minifigure ever produced, up to 2010.
> 9 votes

# Answer
At BrickLink you can browse through, what seams to be, all the existing Minifigures.

This link is the query that seams to returns most of them but you will have to dig around in the other Lego themes(categories) to find the other ones.
> 5 votes

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Tags: minifigures, minifigure-identification
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# Question
Title: Steering mechanism for City-scale vehicle
I'd like to build city-scale (6 studs wide) motorized vehicles with PF remote control. There are already several suggestions on how to motorize wheels. The next challenge is steering mechanism that can be connected to motor (with gears or by other means). Sure, solution with 2 rotation axes is preferred, but rigid axle turning at center is OK too.

# Answer
> 11 votes
It's difficult, but not impossible. A rigid axle turning at the centre would be mechanically simpler. As my crude drawing illustrates; I would place a 24-tooth gear over the 2x4 wheel axle. A 8-tooth gear is optional but will provide finer control over the steering. The two teeth gears can also be replaced with a pulley gear.

This technique however will not work with current Lego CITY vehicals unless the wheel arch is removed or replaced.

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Tags: power-functions, vehicle, design, city, steering
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# Question
Title: Is there anything like a 'recipe generator' for LEGO models?
For me, most of the fun of LEGO toys, is building new things from the instructions. Rebuilding things can be fun, but if I know I have certain bricks (or even sets), is there somewhere to cross-reference these with the content of other constructions/sets (official or otherwise)?

# Answer
> 52 votes
Yes there is! Rebrickable.com is dedicated entirely to doing so. You can save time and import your LEGO collection from Brickset.com (If you have an account). The site will then search for other sets and MOCs you can build from the bricks you have in your collection.

# Answer
> 15 votes
If you want to know if you can build a certain set with the parts you have, you can have a look at set inventories on Peeron or BrickLink

You can also even enter a list of your own parts on Peeron and have it check it against existing sets, thus letting you know what you can build, or what you need to buy to build the set you want.

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Tags: instructions, software, set-database
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# Question
Title: Are companies producing custom molded LEGO pieces legally entitled to do so?
We have seen (or I have seen, given I am a member of a few popular BIONICLE fan sites) an uproar from custom molding companies -- that is, companies that create their own LEGO pieces.

My question is simply whether these kinds of things are legal, as I know LEGO is very tight with legal issues.

# Answer
> 11 votes
from the german wikipedia entry (translated with my poor english-skills):

* The Federal Court of germany opened the market for LEGO-like bricks on december 2nd 2004
* The European Court of Justice decided in september 2010 that LEGO-Bricks can be copied as they aren't protected by patents anymore

so at least in europe there doesn't seem to be a problem in producing custom bricks and exact copies of LEGO-bricks.

# Answer
> 7 votes
LEGO is a multinational corporation. Patents, laws and regulations vary in different countries. Moreover in, many cases, even if there is an operation recognized as illegal, enforcement may be difficult to achieve.

As a result, a proliferation of compatible brands and clones (fake LEGO) do exist. There is also the edge cases of artists selling custom made minifigs parts, etc.

According to the latest jurisprudence

* On November 17, 2005, the Supreme Court of Canada upheld Mega Bloks' right to continue selling the product in Canada. This effectively permit Lego compatible brick systems to be sold in Canada
* On September 14, 2010, the European Court of Justice ruling had Lego lost their protection on their brick design.

More about this on the wikipedia Megabrand article

# Answer
> 6 votes
As you say, LEGO is very tight with legal issues, so if custom molding was entirely illegal, it's likely we wouldn't see such companies, or maybe in unreachable countries only.

Now, LEGO may be tight with legal issues, but on the other hand they know how to be benevolent when it benefits them. (Consider the openness around the various Mindstorms systems, for example.)

The key here is that LEGO is very protective of its own brand and image, but as long as you don't infringe on that, you're most likely to be OK. In the case of custom molding, it means you can't make any part that LEGO makes or has made itself, and of course you can't pretend it's LEGO at all.

And then you have to hope that LEGO doesn't want to copy you, but even there they can play nice if they feel it's best for them. For an example, take the development of the Emerald Night train. When LEGO started thinking about that, they didn't produce big wheels; but one of the fans who participated in a workshop brought Big Ben Bricks train wheels with him, and by showing LEGO the great models they could build with them, them managed to have LEGO change its position and produce some larger wheels.

Whether LEGO had talks with Big Ben Bricks, or what could have been discussed in these talks, is unknown; but you can notice that Big Ben Bricks still exists eventhough LEGO knows about them. Moreover, LEGO doesn't produce all sizes that BBB does, and even then in limited sets and quantities only (always 4 regulars and 2 blinds together), so that it's likely LEGO tries not to impede too much on BBB.

I a way, I think LEGO is very conscious that these companies fill a gap that they themselves can't, or don't want. As such, as long as these companies play nice, LEGO knows better than to go after them.

# Answer
> 3 votes
**(I am not a lawyer)**

The key thing now is that the basic brick designs (studs on top and tubes underneath) are no longer covered by *patents*, which is how mega-blocks et. al managed to survive and create "LEGO Compatible" components - without that, LEGO would have taken them down completely.

What then remains is the copyright and trade marks of the LEGO logo, wording, etc, and indeed the "Basic Brick" in some countries. (Lego Fair Play). How far they go with enforcing that, I'm not sure, and you'd need to talk to the likes of Big Ben Bricks and see if they have any explicit agreements in place.

# Answer
> 1 votes
From the Wikipedia Lego Group article:

> The LEGO Group has attempted to trademark the "LEGO Indicia", the studded appearance of the LEGO brick, hoping to stop production of Mega Bloks. On 24 May 2002, the Federal Court of Canada dismissed the case, asserting the design is functional and therefore ineligible for trademark protection\[4\]. The LEGO Group's appeal was dismissed by the Federal Court of Appeal on 14 July 2003\[5\]. In October 2005, the Supreme Court ruled unanimously that "Trademark law should not be used to perpetuate monopoly rights enjoyed under now-expired patents." and held that Mega Bloks can continue to manufacture their bricks.

As other posters have mentioned, other companies have limited or dismissed Lego's rights to force out competitors. From my personal observation, Lego has increased its licensing efforts of popular movies (Star Wars, Indiana Jones, Harry Potter, etc.) to improve its competitiveness against Lego clones.

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Tags: piece-information, manufacturing, 3rd-party, patent
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# Question
Title: What are proven methods to sort/categorize a large number of parts?
How would you recommend to sort your Lego parts? Finding a certain part in a box with parts of about 20 models takes ages.

Should I sort by color? Or by size? Another category?

# Answer
> 26 votes
I think the correct approach to this is to consider the whole process and not just the sorting part, although the short answer "sort by form" will still be valid.

The whole process is not limited to sorting, but in a more general way goes from the moment you decide to store a part away to the moment when you retrieve it to put it in a model.

As such, you have to keep in mind your ultimate goal: find the part you need for the model you're currently building. Most of the time, you'll have a specific part in a specific color in mind, and need to find it as fast as possible. But not always! Sometimes you don't care what color the part is in (invisible support structure), or maybe you can't see it (blind kids). In most cases, the form is at least as important as color, but sometimes it's just color you're after.

So what is sorting? Sorting is a way to do some of the finding work in advance so that when you need that particular part, you don't have to waste too much time. You'll also win serious time on the sorting since you do it for a lot of parts at the same time.

Let's assume you're after a specific part in a specific color, which will be most of the time. So that means your parts have to be sorted both by color and by form. That may prove too impractical for normal people, but keep in mind some serious builders do that.

So the trick is since you have two sorting criteria, you use one at the moment of building, and the other when storing or sorting parts (with discipline1, you'll sort when storing). Usually, you'll want to do as much tedious work when sorting, so you'll keep the color-sorting for when you're building. Color-sorting is the fastest, just think of a tub with all red bricks of all sorts and find 5 1x1 bricks in it, then picture the same task from a tub full of 1x1 bricks of all colors.

Again, this depends on what you'll end up doing with the bricks; if you want to build a lot of 2-studs-wide uniform walls for example, maybe a tub with one color of 2xn bricks makes more sense than separating the 2x2, 2x3 in different color tubs.

In any case, keep in mind the ideal way is to have each part in each color stored separately. If this is impractical, consider mixing parts which have as little in common as possible. If one container holds 1x3 and 1x4 bricks together, it will be more trouble to pick them apart than if you mix 1x1 and 2x3. Or, maybe you can mix 2L Technic axles with 1x2 slopes.

And the last thing to consider is how many of the part you have. If you have 2000 blue 1x1 bricks, and only a few dozens of other colors, don't mix them. Separate the blue ones and the others, or better, separate the blue ones but keep a few mixed with the others, so that the nearly-2000 blue-only 1x1 bricks can go to long-term storage. Similarly, make sure that rare parts for which you only have a few are easy to find, even if that means they have to have their own storage bin (maybe they can be mixed together, though).

# Answer
> 25 votes
If you have a lot of unsorted lego, it isn't easy to apply a fully-developed categorisation system without a *lot* of work up-front. One way around this is to develop a sorting system gradually.

* Exactly how you sort will depend on the size of your collection, the profile of your pieces, the time you have available and the categories that are convenient for you.

## What not to do

* As a general rule, don't bother sorting by color until you've already sorted by shape.

## General notes

* You'll probably have an "everything else" container for a while. Don't worry about it.
* This is your collection - sort things in a way that is convenient for you and into categories that are convenient for you.
* Think about how you'll use the bricks. Sort for use rather than because the categories are neat. For example, I keep some wheels on axels rather than separating them out because I usually want them that way when I'm building.

## Starting off

* It is often easier to sort out the big bits first because they're easiest to find.
* Some things, like tangled cables and string, can really make things messy.

Get things out of the way: \- Pull out the big baseboards \- Pull out any cables, winches or anything else that is prone to tangling \- Pull out any really big parts \- Pull out any instructions, catalogues, etc.

## Next steps

* Develop some broad categories of things that tend to be used together. Whenever you come across anything that belongs in these categories, pull them out into a separate container. You don't have to sort all of the bricks in these categories at once - just pull them out whenever you find them.

Examples of major categories: \- Technic \- Electronics \- Minifigs and their tools

* As you go, pull out anything that really isn't lego:
    + Duplo
    + "Heretic" bricks (MegaBlocks etc.)
    + Other toys
    + Scraps of paper
    + Fluff, twigs etc.

## Sort by shape

* Stick similar parts together. Ignore color.

+ Make stacks of 2x2 bricks
    + Stick the round things together
    + Make stacks of plates. Offset the plates so they are easy to separate
* Whenever you come across pairs of pieces (e.g. wheels and their tires, right and left-hand wings) stick them together. You'll probably need them as pairs when you're building.

## Categorize by general purpose

* Stuff for vehicles

+ Wheels and axels
    + Windshields
    + Wheel arches
* Stuff for buildings

+ Doors and windows
    + Fences
* Train stuff
* Boat stuff

## Categorise by general shape

* Big bricks
* Slopes
* Round bricks
* Arches
* Plates
* 1x? bricks
* 2x? bricks
* Hinges and turntables

## Sort strictly by shape

* 1x1 bricks

## Finally, sort by color

Where you have a lot of bricks the same shape, sort by color as well.

* 1x1 yellow bricks

# Answer
> 10 votes
First group by fit. So you put for example normal bricks on one stack, those technic bricks with holes on another and so on. Then start grouping the different sizes of your bricks like 7 long bars with holes, 9 long bars with holes and so on. I never sorted by color, but after the last step, if you have still to big stacks, you should do that.

# Answer
> 3 votes
A pigeon hole drop panel connected to the rear of a rack of pullout storage trays is a proven way to sort small parts. Just toss your bit into the correct slot and collect the sorted pieces from down below. I haven't seen one built specificly for LEGO elements, but the idea is sound. It would work great in a studio situation where large sorts, frequent model breakdowns, and bulk element storage are part of the routine.

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Tags: organisation
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# Question
Title: How well does the new interior lighting system intergrate into a new build?
I enjoyed the interior LEGO lighting I saw at Brickcon 2011. How does the lighting system affect the fit of the LEGO elements involved?

# Answer
> 8 votes
Considering the new PF lights are more compact at the point where the light is, I would say it's easier to integrate in creations. They do have a big block on the cable where the two lights are separated, but that leaves you more liberty compared to previous 9V lamps for which you had to have the cable connector on the lamp itself, which took quite a lot of space.

As such, you may be able to fit PF lights in tighter places, and have less constraints on the orientation (I'm thinking ceiling light with the bulb directed downwards, for example).

By the way, that's an area where a lot of LEGO fans are more willing to toss purism aside and use their own leds and cabling, which can easily be done without damaging a single brick, takes less place, and usually costs less.

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Tags: lighting
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