title: What are some uses of part 93589?

text:
# Question
Title: What are some uses of part 93589?
I discovered that part 93589:

Was used in the Creator set Extreme Engines (31072):

This element strikes me as the sort of part-out-of-other-parts that was created to serve a single purpose: the front end on specific race cars. For most cases, it seems like the 4x1 slope curved can do the job quite well minus the slight curve at the front:

The element only gets used in the main model. What are some other uses for this part? Why was it created?

# Answer
This part was introduced for licensed polybags in the Racers Ferrarri line (30195 and 30190):

It has been used that way a few other times since then, but it has also been used a few other ways in released sets.

It was used in 95012-1 BARC Speeder with Sidecar to round out the back end of the CIS speeder nicely:

And identically in 75017-1 Duel on Geonosis:

The part was also used to create a nice nose for a dragon in 70736-1 Attack of the Morro Dragon:

It has also been used in a couple different City sets to round off aircraft components such as the engines on 4209-1 Fire Plane:

And the top of the Helicopter in 60010 Fire Helicopter:

This part has only appeared in about a dozen sets in six different colors. It's fun to have another shape to play with in models, and this part adds some unique possibilities to possible builds.
> 4 votes

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Tags: piece-information, annual-support
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title: How are these transparent stairs made?

text:
# Question
Title: How are these transparent stairs made?
What techniques and bricks are used to support the transparent pieces? Can anyone work it out?

# Answer
The steps are made of 4218: Garage Roller Door Section without Handle pieces in clear transparent.

They are inserted into 2420: Corner 2 x 2 Plate pieces.
> 8 votes

# Answer
I *schmoogle searched* your picture looking for more reference info, and it says it's named:

"*IMGP7842f - 2016 - Glass Staircase Study With Side Shelves" by Deborah Higdon*.

I couldn't find more shots, but this is how she made it from what I can see.

Colors are used to help better visualize this masterpiece. Everything that's hidden from camera view on the left side, like the orange 1x1 plates and the red, dark-gray and white corner tiles is just speculation by me.

Her unorthodox use of the transparent garage pieces as steps are both visually striking and cool, but what makes her piece more grande is when we start reverse engineering it, and become even more pleasantly surprised by what we find.

Taking it all apart, while subtracting the stairs, we realize that the entire left side and right side are reverse studded from the center out?!? Another bit of the unorthodox.

We all know the LEGO system doesn't have top/bottom reverse-studded bricks and plates, so we have to ask ourselves, how'd she connect both sides then?

Then we see how she pins her structure together using a combination of modified studded bricks(red and dark green), which are all held together by a 1x8(reddish-brown) tile and a 2x4(nougat colored) plate, which is very nice!

How she was able to count out the in between plate/brick width of the 1x8 tile is impressive, but what throws me, is BOTH the random use, AND random way she USED the garage pieces for steps. That's cray-cray.

I haven't tested her design in real life. Like most of my designs the final glory is the transition from the digital to the real-life. I want to touch it!! So, for these Steps and Cubbyholes, I can't just yet feel the overall structural integrity to reach her vision of final glory.

And finally, I'm super curious about my speculative guess work on her hidden left side. Sometimes when reverse engineering you begin to feel that you somewhat understand the artist's creative side, and can anticipate what their next move would or should be depending on the overall composition and the flow of the design.

I think I'm 100% on the 1x1 orange plates, but that twisty corner tile use, hmmm damn, wish I could see how close I was to the original.

Animation that shows how the 1x1x1 wall tiles are attached: Exploding animation
> 5 votes

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Tags: building
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# Question
Title: Repeat until sensor value is accepted does not work.
I am trying to create a robot that follows a line. I want the robot to turn on its vertical axis ("move-tank") until it finds the line again and then keep going straight. My problem is that the "repeat turning until color sensor value is less than 20" loop does not stop although the sensor value meets the criteria (i.e. less than 20).

This is my code:

Any ideas what am I doing wrong?

The logic inside the loop 02 is that it turns tank-left (-10,10) for 0.5, then it turns tank-right (-1 x -10, -1 x 10) for 0.5 + 0.3 seconds, etc until it finds the line (sensor value \< 20).

# Answer
The loop does stop but you can not see it: You should add a brake block after the loop that runs until colour sensor\<20 otherwise there is no visible indication that the loop has stopped. Hope this helped.
> 2 votes

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Tags: sensor-colour
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# Question
Title: Can anyone help identify the LEGO bags, lime, dark green, and dark grey?
I have 3 bags of LEGO. I need the instructions. Can anyone help?

# Answer
These bags are from 9457-1: Fangpyre Wrecking Ball

Based on
> 3 votes

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Tags: set-identification, instructions
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# Question
Title: Stepping through Mindstorm program for debugging
The code does not do what I think it should. It is frustrating to tweak it, download it, run it from the block, and find that once again, it does not do what I think it should.

Is there some way to step through a program on the laptop, displaying variables, outputs etc as it runs? Maybe lighting up each block as it is traversed in the program? It is hard to see where my code is bad if I can only test it as a package.

# Answer
> 4 votes
No, the software does not provide these kinds of debugging capabilities (although it does animate each block as it runs if you start the program from the programming software instead of starting it from the brick).

There are other ways to debug though. Here are some ideas:

* Use a display block to show values on the screen
* Use tones/sounds to indicate when a certain point in the program has been reached
* Use the brick lights to indicate the state of the program
* Use a wait block with the brick buttons (or a touch sensor) to "pause" your program at a certain point, then press the button to resume

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Tags: ev3, programming
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# Question
Title: Help identifying LEGO set, smaller pieces with M printed on them?
These are smaller LEGO's than my kids normally play with. Some have an "M" on it and some still have "LEGO" on them. What sets could these be from?

# Answer
> 5 votes
http://lego.wikia.com/wiki/Modulex From the sounds of it looks like they are part of the Modulex line that was released for professionals. From what I've read they are smaller than normal LEGO system parts.

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification
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# Question
Title: Does my child need a smart device to control LEGO Powered Up train sets?
The first two Powered Up train sets can be controlled with smart devices (phone, tablet, etc). Is this required to control the trains?

# Answer
No, a smart device is not required to control train sets 60197 and 60198. These include a standalone Powered Up remote control:

This provides much of the same functionality as a smart device. From the FAQ:

> The LEGO® Powered Up remote control works a lot like how you would use your smart device (mobile phone or tablet for example) to control any other electronic device via Bluetooth technology. If you connect the remote control to the Smarthub in the train, you can control the speed or stop the train.

However, there are some features that are only available from a smart device:

> The app does provide you with additional features, such as sounds, and the ability to see how fast the train is travelling from 0-10 increments.
> 3 votes

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Tags: trains, powered-up
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# Question
Title: How many motors can be controlled using the Powered Up system?
I'm wondering how many motors I can control at the same time using the LEGO Powered Up system? What components are required to make this work?

# Answer
With current hardware, the answer is 10. From the trains FAQ:

> You can run up to 10 trains at the same time from one remote control. There are 5 channels on the remote control (you can tell them apart by their different colors), and with each channel you can control 2 Smarthubs in separate trains with motors plugged in – as long as on one train the motor is in port A of the Smarthub, and on the other train, port B.

Each Smarthub provides two ports:

There are 5 channels available on current remotes, so you can pair up to 5 remotes with Smarthubs and control 5×2=10 outputs at the same time.
> 2 votes

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Tags: powered-up
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# Question
Title: How do I connect the LEGO Powered Up remote control?
I'm trying to use the Powered Up remote control to control my new train set, but it doesn't seem to work. Is there some process that I need to follow to connect or pair the remote with the Smarthub?

# Answer
The Powered Up system uses Bluetooth for control, so the remote needs to be paired with the Smarthub. To accomplish the pairing between the Powered Up remote and the Smarthub, you simply press the green buttons on both devices at the same time as shown in the instructions and in this review by Beyond the Brick:

If the pairing process works correctly, both devices should have their lights lit up in the same color.
> 3 votes

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Tags: powered-up
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# Question
Title: What is the range of the LEGO Powered Up remote control system?
I'm curious how far I will be able get away from my creation before the remote and/or smart device is no longer able to control it.

# Answer
Your mileage may vary, but according to LEGO, the range is about **10m (33ft) in open air**.

> The Bluetooth signal distance is usually around 10 meters/33 feet in an open area, but it can vary, depending on a few things: Low batteries in the remote control, and obstacles – concrete walls, for example – may decrease the signal distance. Try to remove obstacles, or find another place to play with your train, if it seems like the distance is shorter than expected.
> 2 votes

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Tags: powered-up
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# Question
Title: How many and what kind of batteries are needed for LEGO Powered Up?
I'm considering picking up one of the Powered Up train sets. What kind of batteries does the included Powered Up remote control system use?

# Answer
The current line of Powered Up components uses AAA batteries. The Powered Up team has indicated that both regular or rechargeable batteries should work fine.

You will need 10 AAA batteries to control one train with the included remote, or 6 if you are using a smart device as your remote. Here's the battery layout shown in the instructions:
> 5 votes

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Tags: trains, powered-up
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# Question
Title: What is this large drag-grey piece? I see it being sold with 9v train tracks, and it is about the same size
What is this piece? I see it being sold with 9v train tracks

# Answer
That's part 42936 Track System, Straight Track 16 x 8 x 2.

It was used in the Racers track system and was found in sets in the early 2000s such as 4588 Off-Road Race Track:

It really has nothing to do with 9V train track, but sellers don't always understand the details of different track systems and simply sell elements that look like track together.
> 4 votes

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Tags: trains
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# Question
Title: What is this brown flexible wire with 5 sliding pieces?
This is definitely one of the strangest LEGO pieces I've ever found.

The wire caps are both stamped LEGO, one would take half (or quarter) a pin and one a small ball.

What is it and where does it come from?

# Answer
That's a flex system cable with several clutch changeover elements strung onto it. You can see it on the back of 8002 Destroyer Droid:

That's the only set with those parts in brown, so that's certainly where it came from. You can find all of the parts in the set inventory.

Those cable end elements have never felt quite like LEGO bricks to me, as they are one of the few parts that I feel like I might break when taking them apart.
> 6 votes

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification
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# Question
Title: Third power functions train runs backwards, why?
We have the passenger train and freight train, both run from a single controller - one through the red and one through the blue side. At Christmas we got the holiday train, and with the power functions kit coming back in stock with Lego, we just added power to it.

Having set this train to red on channel 2, its forward is counter clockwise. Both trains on channel 1 go forward when the dial is turned clockwise!

How do I reverse the controls of channel 2 without affecting channel 1?

# Answer
The power functions motor block is symmetrical except for where the power cable comes out:

So I think it likely you can (partially) rebuild your city train with the motor turned 180 degrees, which will clearly change the direction the train travels... Since I would expect all trains going in the same direction when exactly built according to the instructions, perhaps you oriented the motor wrong in the city train or the other two trains ?
> 2 votes

# Answer
There are little black switches on the train remote control which you can use to invert the direction.
> 3 votes

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Tags: trains, power-functions
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# Question
Title: How to flash a LEGO Mindstorms brick and program it in another language
I have a basic LEGO Mindstorms kit which I wanted to use for testing a very simple object-avoidance project.

I am trying to find a relatively simple way to flash the brick and upload scripts to it for executing, preferably something simple like Python or C++. I've been looking around the Internet for a few weeks now and have found almost nothing.

I see some instructions how to flash the brick with some generic firmware, but no more information how to get to the point of programming it the way I need. I see the most popular source for programming the NXT in Python is NXT-Python. However, there is 1) no documentation 2) outstanding bugs on the ultrasonic sensor that has not been addressed since 2015 and 3) only executes the program on the PC and sends command to the brick, rather than uploading the program to the brick.

I see that NXT is usually programmed in the language NXC, which fortunately has an extensive documentation in PDF form. However, this language (based in C) seems like an entire beast of its own, and idk if I would have the time or patience to master an entirely new language just to program for this one small project. Furthermore, the GUI for NXC seems to be only for windows, but I'm using Ubuntu.

NXC seems to be translatable from Python using the PyNXC library. However, it also doesn't seem to have any documentation except a couple of examples, and otherwise just pointing to the NXC tutorials.

Anything I am missing here, or is that the entire length and breadth of programming the NXT? I have a feeling there has got to be something more straight forward, as other people online talk about programming the NXT in python as if it was easy.

Thanks

# Answer
I've had great success with Bricx Command Center or BricxCC (as mentioned in this post) on my NXT using NXC (which is easy to pick-up when you already have a C/C++ foundation like you've mentioned).

Installation, using the supplied drivers and connecting via USB is a breeze :)

Hope this helps!
> 2 votes

# Answer
In my experience, most 3rd-party firmware can be flashed to the NXT brick using the standard NXT-G software "Firmware Update Tool." As others have mentioned, BricxCC with NXC is also a great option. And if you're having trouble with the Python implementation, it's definitely worth checking out LeJOS (Java for Mindstorms). While Java may not be the usual choice for robotics, LeJOS runs fast and is easily the most feature-rich of any language available for the NXT.
> 1 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, nxt, nxc, python
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# Question
Title: Any ideas on this mostly white and dark red set?
I recently purchased quite a few Lego pieces from a neighbor. They are a bit of a mess with no instructions. I did find a couple bags that had not been opened. This is bag 2 and 3 and a couple smaller bags. I'm pretty sure bag one is already opened and in the mix of the others. Any ideas what set this could be. Thanks for any help.

# Answer
Based on the White Wedge, Plate 6 x 12 Right, the Light Bluish Gray Technic, Steering Wheel Small, 3 Studs Diameter and Dark Red Wedge 3 x 4 with Stud Notches

I think these parts belong to

75003-1 : A-Wing Starfighter
> 2 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: What is the function of Duplo part# 38507 RAIL ACCESSORY, NO. 4
Can someone explain to me what 38507: RAIL ACCESSORY, NO. 4 (#6225519) is for? I've got this in the new Duplo Train accessory #10882 and can't figure out what it does :S

# Answer
> 10 votes
It's an interactive piece that makes the train perform a cool(ish) function when it rolls over it.

The train has a sensor on the bottom that reads the piece and does the deed.

When the train reads this red one... it stops moving, which is sorta coolish for a jealous older sibling maybe ;).

Watch 3 videos explaining all the cool possibilities. *(), (), ()*.

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Tags: piece-information, trains, duplo
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title: Identify 2x2 chrome/silver emblem

text:
# Question
Title: Identify 2x2 chrome/silver emblem
I want to know which sets this piece is from.

It's 2x2 in size, no writing on it except for an S or 8 in the hole. I've tried googling terms such as chrome/silver indian emblem/plaque to no avail.

# Answer
> 4 votes
It's apparently called a "Sun Disk" (named such in an old magazine) and it appeared in 5 different sets from the 1999 Adventurers: Jungle theme.

Minifig, Utensil Sun Disk Item No: x276

Also it's supposed to be gold, but I think I've seen the old chrome gold discolor like this before.

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Set Identification: 2011 set, bag 3, #135149
Can anyone help identify which set this bag comes from?

# Answer
> 3 votes
This bag is from 75092-1: Naboo Starfighter

Based on

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Tags: set-identification, sets
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title: Please identify the sub assemblies

text:
# Question
Title: Please identify the sub assemblies
Can you please identify the sub assemblies from the pictures. Is this part of a set or something someone just build? As you can see there are a lot of missing pieces. Do they ring a bell to anyone?

**(A)**

---

**(B)**

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**(C)**

# Answer
See instructions 75103-1 page=30

* Assembly C is from page 65 (thanks @ LegoSonicBoy)
> 2 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Need help identifying set from 2011

text:
# Question
Title: Need help identifying set from 2011
Bag came with no instructions. Just these 103 pcs

# Answer
Going from the Tan Panel 2 x 2 x 1 Corner (# 91501), I've dug into bricklink: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=91501&in=S

This particular piece has only been in 9 sets, and the one I can see that matches the rest of the pieces is 10692-1: Creative Bricks
> 3 votes

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Tags: piece-information, set-identification
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# Question
Title: How do you support upper floors in tall buildings?
When I build a skyscraper out of LEGO and the floor above is weak do I remove the flooring from above and a pillar underneath and then put the floor back or something?

# Answer
> 1 votes
Extra support in form of pillars/walls underneath (remember that also weighs something and as such should be supported) is one (and probably the most widely used) solution, another would be to build the floor thicker, and depending on how weak the floor is and how much it has to support yet another solution might be to just not care.

# Answer
> 1 votes
Most real-world buildings will have one or both of the following features:

1. Load bearing columns - in tall tower blocks you'll often find the lifts, emergency stairs, etc form a central column that the floors can be anchored to.
2. Supporting beams - these are typically steel beams that travel from one load bearing wall to another, and the floor will then rest on those.

Where you have both these features, the supporting beams will go from the exterior walls to the support columns, or from column to column, providing both rigidity to the structure and support for the floors.

Your LEGO builds should aim to incorporate those features if you need to support plates that are smaller than your building's floor plan.

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Tags: building, modular-buildings
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title: Identify (very old) bricks with 2 studs

text:
# Question
Title: Identify (very old) bricks with 2 studs
I have this two bricks I got as a present a while ago, and wanted to know a bit more about them.

**Things I noticed:**

* The material is not entirely hard as today's plastic bricks, some small marks can be seen on the righter one.
* When they are put together, there's a little gap left between them, not smooth and tight as today's bricks.
* I'm pretty sure it's very old.

**What I'd like to know:**

* Year of creation (also estimated is great)
* Material
* Manufacturer
* Anything else interesting about it :)

Thanks!

# Answer
They're called *MiniBrix*.

* Year of creation: *1935*.
* Material: *Rubber*.
* Manufacturer: *Premo Rubber Company*.
* Watch my source informative video by **JangBricks** *HERE*, which tells the interesting history of toy bricks before LEGO ;).
> 12 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Serial tower RCX 1.0 works with NQC but flakey with RIS 2.0
Had this baby for 20 years at this point. Some rubber rot on the cables, but other than that, the set's in great shape.

RCX 1.0 with DC-in port. Serial tower. Fresh batteries in tower and RCX.

I have RIS 2.0 installed on a WinXP laptop with a serial port. Tower works and shows green light. The entire 2500-step firmware update process happens just fine (from the RIS settings menu). I've even successfully completed the IR range test, where it makes the RCX beep as long as it's in IR range.

After that, I get periodic "Trouble communicating with the RCX" messages. Downloading a program often takes 2-3 retries because of this. This seems like an okay work-around, but then other times, it just can never complete a download at all.

I just tried NQC today, and it downloads programs every time, reliably. That implies that this isn't an RCX problem or a tower problem. Some kind of RIS software problem.

I've seen discussions of other compatibility issues with newer Windows, but I'm not having those specific issues. Just really flaky program downloading with lots of retries. But the strange thing is that the firmware downloads just fine.... and that's HUGE.

As for why I don't just use NQC.... I'm trying to get this working for my kids. They've never done anything like this before, and the RIS interface is perfect for their skill level.

Update, More details:

Green light on serial tower comes on each time I try to download a program, so nothing else is blocking the serial port. Though you're right that NQC cannot connect to the port if RIS is running. I've tried both near and far range on the tower. Replaced batteries a bunch of times.

The only other bit of behavior that I forgot to mention is that when trying to DL a program, the green light on the tower comes on, and then sometimes the little "receiving" icon on the RCX comes on, but just for a moment. Other times, the receiving icon never comes on at all. Then, after several retries, the receiving icon on the RCX comes on, stays on, and the little progress "dots" on the RCX fill up.

# Answer
> 2 votes
What a strange issue. I'm not sure the exact cause, but I have a few troubleshooting tips for you to try:

1. Make sure the serial tower is set to "Long Range" mode (the little switch on the front).
2. Make sure the RCX is set to "Long Range" mode (Go to the RIS settings page and change the RCX comm range).
3. Make sure the RCX program slots are unlocked (also in the RIS settings page).
4. Try replacing the batteries (again, particularly in the tower).
5. Try downloading the program with the lights off (believe it or not, I've had lightbulbs emitting enough infrared to interfere with communications).
6. Make sure that when the RIS software is running, no other mindstorms software is running. If NQC is running at the same time it might bind up the serial port.

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Tags: mindstorms, rcx
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# Question
Title: What is the name/part number of this 1x1 LEGO brick, used to make "cat eyes"?
Could anyone please tell me the name/part number of the LEGO component used for the cat's eyes?

# Answer
**Name:** Lever Small Base 4592.

Bricklink link *HERE*.
> 22 votes

# Answer
Looks like https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=4592c02#T=C but with the lever removed.
> 12 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: How did they make the LEGO Batman cutscenes?
I want to know what programs they used to make the videos the old LEGO video games like the 2008 LEGO Batman, 2007 Lego Star Wars, and maybe the 2011 LEGO Star Wars for a little modern-ish feel. I want to learn how they made the models, textures, effects, map and etc.

I've just been inspired to make my own LEGO animations. What programs should I use to start?

# Answer
> 4 votes
Most likely Autodesk Maya and possibly some other tools based on LEGO internal parts libraries like the Easy Builder Tool or Brick Builder.

All of those games are made by Traveller's Tales. In a video on the development process for their Jurassic Park title you will see that they use Maya to create and animate their models (the right screen would be very familiar looking to a Maya user).

More-than-likely this is the same software they use to animate their cutscenes, and I doubt they have changed software packages since then.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Here is a good little write up from Animal Logic, who made the Lego Movie, Lego Batman Movie, etc:

https://www.animallogic.com/portfolio/projects/tlm/

A lot of it is custom built for them and they don't reveal the secrets.

This little bit is pretty good as well:

https://www.fxguide.com/featured/brick-by-brick-how-animal-logic-crafted-the-lego-movie/

There are loads of people on YouTube who make Lego films some great, some good and some rubbish. Just spend some time researching it all.

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Tags: animation
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# Question
Title: What is the writing on this sticky note tile?
Is it a bullet-point list? Or some kind of poem? Or non-words?

LEGO Tile 1 x 1 with Black Writing (Sticky Note / Post-It) with Groove (25389)

# Answer
LEGO seems to be serious about the fan base, so I wrote 'em, and gave 'em the task...

...And they just wrote back.

So, a recap-y-cap:

* Doesn't mean anything.
* The letters are initials of some LEGO designers,
* Which designers, (they can't tell).
* Done to fill up space that requires letters (since a real memo note needs some sort of lettering symbols).
* The smile face and the question mark is just flair, or gibberish to make it look (more) like a note.
* The circles in front of each line is to represent a check box.

Original poster was right 2 out of 3 speculative reasons behind this piece's creation. Good job *Ben*.

Task complete, and we're very impressed with Joseph's prompt reply from LEGO Customer Service. Thanks again Joe Joe, and now we're off to finish the LEGO survey on "How they did today"...

No, no. You're welcome LEGO, and thanks for *your* help ;). Later!
> 6 votes

# Answer
First trace of that piece is in LEGO Olivia's Exploration Car Set 41116. It featured stickied on an astronomy-oriented map.

Probably a bullet point list, and the second word might be `Mars ?`. No idea about the first one

It was also released in other sets at around the same time, one of those is Emma Creative Workshop 41115-1

In that case the sticky note is in a girly room/workshop, and it could conceivably be a list of two character names, `Ian` and `Marc`, as @V2Blast said in the commands. These sets are part of the Heartlake stuff of LEGO Friends, I don't know if there are two characters with these names.

And, in the end, it's probably left vague deliberately, after all it's LEGO, where we are supposed to create new stuff from their bricks, not be constrained by the sticky note's words. As an examples this sticky notes brick is also used in a LEGO Ideas (Old Fishing Store), where it is on top of the cash register, and it's clearly not used for what's written on the note (Ian, Marc or Mars), just as a generic sticky note.
> 7 votes

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Tags: piece-information
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# Question
Title: How to send through Bluetooth motor angle position and mirror that position on another motor?
I've built a steering wheel that checks the servomotor position using NXC function - `MotorRotationCount()`. Now, I want to send that position to second brick using Bluetooth and apply that servomotor position to another servomotor controlling the car's steering. I've figured out how to send the data between bricks but I can't find a way to mirror that servomotor position. Is it possible?

# Answer
> 0 votes
Yes it's definitely possible. See the motor functions here. I would try the following:

1. Receive the controller's position over bluetooth.
2. Use `MotorTachoCount (byte output)` to get the position of the steering motor.
3. Compare controller's position to the steering motor's position.

`if(controller > steering) drive steering forward.
else drive steering backward.`
4. Repeat 1-4.

There are a few enhancements you can make as well, once you get this working. For one, it may help to set the steering motor's power proportional to the difference between the positions. For example, `pwr = 0.5*abs(controller - steering)` . Adjust the 0.5 by trial and error until the steering is responsive, but not over-responsive. This will make the steering faster if the difference is large, and slower when the difference is small. It may also be worth looking into the motor PID functions to make the steering even smoother.

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Tags: nxt, programming, bluetooth, nxc, motor
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# Question
Title: Please help me identify this partially assembled set, red and 2 large propellers?
A sweet neighbor kid handed down his LEGO collection to us. I’ve been able to find quite a few sets by searching Google, but this one has me stumped.

# Answer
This is 8060-1: Typhoon Turbo Sub
> 8 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Can you help me identify this odd fence-like brick?
This brick was found in a selection of unopened LEGO bags left with an instruction book that were donated to my mother's workplace. Bags did not correspond to the book and and as such I am left at an impasse to find this brick as it is odd enough that I have been unable to find it so that my brother and I can obtain more of them.

# Answer
You have part number 64448: Support 1 x 6 x 5 Girder Rectangular

I'm not sure what color your piece is, but here is a list of sets it comes in.
> 5 votes

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Tags: part-identification
---


# Question
Title: What would be the origin of these 1x1 bricks with the top part and stud having a different color?
Last weekend while visiting Legoland Germany, we found the following pieces in the discount crates:

They are white 1x1 bricks, with the top part (and stud) in light bluish gray.

What would be the origin of these pieces? How are they produced?

# Answer
> Looks like they may be spray-painted? Perhaps for a store display or mosaic? – TheBrickBlogger Jul 14 at 0:40

I agree with this hypothesis. In particular, the pieces would have been assembled and then spray painted. This accounts for the faint tinge of gray on the top edge of the sides of the pieces (paint in the gap between adjacent bricks), and why some of the pieces (right side of the photo) have gray sides.

The tops of the studs look slightly less sharp than LEGO plastic molding usually is, which would be due to the paint slightly rounding everything over.

It is also unlikely that this effect would have been produced by regular injection molding, because the plastic does not enter the mold in neat flat layers so you can't do this by just putting two different colors in. "Overmolding" can create an object with two plastics stuck together, but they would have a crisp edge usually with a detectable seam, not the faintly fuzzy one here. In any case, some very unusual process would have been used, and I doubt that TLG would have gone to the trouble.

It's paint.
> 4 votes

# Answer
Please excuse my answer, because it is pure speculation.

Unfortunately, I don't know anyone that works for LEGO Germany, but Plastic Toy Industry-wise, I have a few friends that work at Hasbro headquarters in Rhode Island, USA, where their casting department spits out many prototypes of toys in the oddest of colors, where the reasoning behind doing so could be varied.

They may need to:

* Test run injection molds,
* Spot sculpting errors,
* Test the plastic tolerances,
* Test articulation,
* Changing from one color to another,
* See how it sits in a box for purchase.
* Possible spray-painted for some type of display reason could also work here.

Somewhere in my basement I have two Transformers entirely purple given to me by my friends at Hasbro.

Check out this pretty ugly Skeletor from Mattel. If I found him in the discount crate maybe I'd buy him too... Big maybe...

So, in review, it might be rare for us outsiders to come across these items, but I don't think this is an odd thing for a company in the Plastic Toy industry to do when bringing an idea to market, thus ending my speculation on why these pieces have different colors.
> 3 votes

---
Tags: part-identification, manufacturing
---


title: Repairing disintegrated old 9V wire

text:
# Question
Title: Repairing disintegrated old 9V wire
I have a number of old technic motors and battery boxes I would like to use however the wires have disintegrated in storage to the point that the metal conductors touch and short out.

Does anybody know the best wire to replace them with? I'm thinking it probably needs to be flexible multicore but I'm not sure of the required current capacity or AWG?

# Answer
MindS1 is correct that in terms of electrical properties you don't need to be terribly picky. As you noted you will want multicore wire to allow for flexibility and prevent breakage.

I'd also add that the standard 9V battery boxes are current limited, so in practice you can get away with 22 AWG or even 24 AWG wire. I'd encourage you to try out the wire in advance to make sure it meets your power requirements. A pair of buggy motors is very different than a few lights or a train motor.

It is possible, though more difficult, to replace the entire wire rather than splicing out and replacing the bad bits. This is covered in detail on Instructables. Here's the gist:

1. Carefully remove the back plate from the connector using two flat blade screwdrivers to release the clips:

2. If you are using a compatible wire size, you can simply slide the wire into the metal clips exactly as the original wire was attached. Otherwise, you can solder it in place:

3. Pop the back plate back on being careful to route the wires and tabs appropriately.

If you are working with the longer wires, and the break is near the end, you can simply remove the wire, cut off the bad end, and reconnect the remainder of the original wire. Your wire will be a few cm shorter, but that isn't a big deal for many applications.
> 3 votes

# Answer
You don't really need to worry about the wire gauge for Lego parts. This source indicates that only the beefiest lego motors breach 1A, and even then, only while *completely stalled*. Most of those motors even have thermal protection systems built-in to prevent damage in the stalled case. So anything around gauge 20 or lower would do the trick.

Make sure to get a stranded core instead of a solid core so it will be flexible.

After you trim out the old damaged wire, slip on some cheap heat-shrink tubing over the remaining part before you twist/solder on the new wire. The heat-shrink tubing will reinforce and protect the new connections you made.
> 2 votes

---
Tags: technic, repair, electronics, 9v
---


# Question
Title: LEGO part counts on boxes without treads
I want to buy another LEGO Technic set therefore I'm trying to analyze the challenge to price ratio of different sets. I first thought that the part count may be somewhat proportional to challenge and fun of building but the winner of this category is the 42069 set (extreme adventure) and this set seems to have a lot of tread parts which probably are included in the part count on the box so I was wondering if there is the "real part" count somewhere so my calculations are more accurate or maybe there are some reviews that include numerical fun factors or challenge factors that I can compare to price.

# Answer
> 2 votes
The "realest" of the real part count for any piece is always located somewhere in the back of the instruction booklet piece manifest.

Look at middle row last piece bottom, where it says we're gonna need ***108x 6014648***.

Wow, this thing looks cool! Have fun!!

Source: LEGO instructions - Technic - 42069 - Extreme Adventure (Model 1) by *LEGO instructions - Fan - Site*.

---
Tags: technic, piece-information, sets, part-database
---


# Question
Title: Please identify LEGO sets based on these parts
Any ideas what set they belong?

# Answer
You have the fuselage of 4618 Twin Rotor Cargo:

The red windshield is from one of these sets (the yellow sticker does not belong):

And the 2x3 slope is from one of these sets.
> 3 votes

---
Tags: part-identification, set-identification
---


title: What to do with old LEGO Magazines

text:
# Question
Title: What to do with old LEGO Magazines
I'm in the process of moving, and I have come upon my old collection of LEGO magazines. All from the early 2000s, I have the LEGO Magazine, the Mania Magazine, and a bunch of Shop-at-Home catalogues.

Are these of any value? I checked e-bay, and I saw a few lots of maybe 10 or so, but nothing seemed to be moving. I've sitting on close to 100 of these things. I need to get rid of them, but I'd hate to just toss them. (I may give them to a neighborhood kid, but his parents might get a bit overwhelmed with 100 LEGO magazines suddenly showing up on the doorstep!)

I'd appreciate any feedback from y'all. (I live in Boston if anyone else is nearby.)

# Answer
You might consider donating them to your local library, or an after-school program. Kids love to flip through them!
> 5 votes

# Answer
They are listed on bricklink, they seem to be sold from time to time. I estimate for about 30 cent each on average...

https://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?pg=1&catString=462&catType=B&v=1
> 1 votes

---
Tags: shopping, value
---


title: EV3 Brick Error Symbols?

text:
# Question
Title: EV3 Brick Error Symbols?
I am currently developing an EV3 robot that sorts colored technic beams. However, the brick will only run part of the program and then generate a strange error code on the brick's screen. The error contains no text, only symbols. The symbol appears as a triangle with an exclamation point on it, and right next to it is an imitation of programming blocks from the EV3 programming software. Does anyone know what this symbol means, and what to do about it?

After further experimentation, I have narrowed down the possibilities. Both MyBlocks that cause the on-brick error contain loops that are configured to loop until a logic variable becomes true. One of these MyBlocks that has that loop contains more blocks after the loop, but the error comes and the program stops before these instructions are executed. Still unable to provide a picture, but does someone know why the EV3 does not like logic loops?

# Answer
> 8 votes
I know that this question is old, but if someone else has this question, I have found that these error messages often appear when you are either trying to access a non existent array (i.e. you copied the block from another project and you did not change the name of the variable) OR when trying to access a value of an array with an index that does not exist (i.e. In an array of size 4 you are trying to access index #4 or index #5)

# Answer
> 5 votes
I had the same problem. I figured out that this is caused by something trying to read something on a numeric array that was not there. well, if that is the problem, use an array function as append and put in the value of what you want, kind of like this:

I need to put the number two in the array "dorp 2", so I do this:

# Answer
> 3 votes
I think that it mean that the virtual machine running on the EV3 brick has encountered an unknown instruction.

Perhaps your program has become corrupted or there is an block that is not configured correctly.

I would copy and paste your blocks into a new program and see if it works. If it does not, start a new program from scratch or just copy a little bit of the program at a time and run it in between copies until you find what is causing the error.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I have found that usualy it is a problem with the brick not the program, try restarting the brick and turning off wifi and bluetooth

---
Tags: ev3, programming
---


# Question
Title: Can Boost programs be transferred off the tablet / phone / PC?
I'd like to be able to transfer Boost programs from one device to another and to back them up. Is this possible?

Ideally I'd like some app-supported mechanism for this.

I have a Google Pixel, a Nexus 5X and a Windows 10 PC. I've poked around on the filesystem looking for saved files but haven't found anything. I'd like to be able to transfer programs from my Windows 10 PC to a phone and vice versa. I am especially thinking of using Boost for exhibits where it would be handy to have a variety of devices having exact copies of the same program. I'm also hoping to find a way to version-control the programs and maybe even reverse-engineer them so that we can generate files without all the touch-screen drag-and-drop silliness.

# Answer
This should be possible. On my Android device, the Boost files are located at `Android/data/com.lego.boost.boost/files`. There are subdirectories there for each model (`Cat`, `Guitar`, `Vernie`, etc).

The `CreativeCanvas` directory stores the generic programs that you have created via the canvas. These are divided into themes and activities. A single activity would be stored at `Android/data/com.lego.boost.boost/files/CreativeCanvas/Theme_nnnnnnnnnn/Activity_nnnnnnnnnn`. That folder then contains numbered directories containing the following file structure:

* Composite Blocks
    + {any composite blocks created}
* RecordedAudio
    + {any audio files}
* metadata.json
* palette.json
* program.json
* Template.json
* thumbnail.png

`metadata.json` gives you an easy way to see what project you are looking at as it shows the name:

```
{
  "creationDate": "2018-07-30T13:17:13",
  "modificationDate": "2018-07-30T15:55:54",
  "name": "Ragana",
  "thumbnail": "thumbnail.png",
  "paletteLevel": 2
}

```

It appears that the program itself is stored in `program.json`. That files looks like this:

```
{
  "mainCanvas": {
    "positionedSequences": [
      {
        "position": {
          "x": -3.49160075,
          "y": 2.56404877
        },
        "PositionedObject": {
          "instructions": [
            {
              "operation": "Start"
            }
          ]
        }
      },
      {
        "position": {
          "x": -0.637803435,
          "y": 3.23562384
        },
        "PositionedObject": {
          "instructions": [
            {
              "operation": "PlaySound",
              "literalParams": [
                2406
              ]
            },
            {
              "operation": "PlaySound",
              "literalParams": [
                1110
              ]
            },
            {
              "operation": "EncMotorSpeedDuration",
              "literalParams": [
                100.0,
                1.0
              ]
            },
            {
              "operation": "DrivebaseBothSpeedTankDuration",
              "literalParams": [
                50.0,
                50.0,
                1.0
              ]
            },
            {
              "operation": "DrivebaseBothSpeedTankDuration",
              "literalParams": [
                -49.0,
                -50.0,
                1.0
              ]
            },
            {
              "operation": "DrivebaseBothSpeedTankDuration",
              "literalParams": [
                -26.0,
                -50.0,
                1.0
              ]
            },
            {
              "operation": "/Generic/Wait/WaitForColor",
              "literalParams": [
                9.0
              ]
            }
          ]
        }
      },
      {
        "position": {
          "x": -2.94540381,
          "y": 0.827951133
        },
        "PositionedObject": {
          "instructions": [
            {
              "operation": "/Generic/Trigger/TriggerOnColor",
              "literalParams": [
                1
              ]
            },
            {
              "operation": "DrivebaseBothSpeedTankDuration",
              "literalParams": [
                50.0,
                50.0,
                1.0
              ]
            },
            {
              "operation": "DrivebaseBothSpeedTankDuration",
              "literalParams": [
                -48.0,
                -53.0,
                1.0
              ]
            }
          ]
        }
      },
      {
        "position": {
          "x": 3.88817477,
          "y": 1.29482651
        },
        "PositionedObject": {
          "instructions": [
            {
              "operation": "/Generic/Trigger/TriggerOnOrientation",
              "literalParams": [
                2
              ]
            },
            {
              "operation": "EncMotorSpeedDuration",
              "literalParams": [
                50.0,
                1.0
              ]
            }
          ]
        }
      },
      {
        "position": {
          "x": 3.715327,
          "y": -0.0692780837
        },
        "PositionedObject": {
          "instructions": [
            {
              "operation": "/Generic/Trigger/TriggerOnOrientation",
              "literalParams": [
                0.0
              ]
            }
          ]
        }
      }
    ],
    "positionedDataBlocks": [],
    "viewState": {
      "position": {
        "x": 2.3166585,
        "y": 1.16671765
      },
      "scale": 4.0
    }
  }
}

```

These are simply JSON files, so you can certainly commit them to version control.

I have confirmed that copying `program.json` from one activity to another effectively clones the activity program. This worked for me for a basic program, but I assume you'll want the entire project structure in version control to catch more complex programs with composite blocks or other things.

There is an analogous path on Windows with these files in it at `C:\Users\username\AppData\Local\Packages\TheLEGOGroup.LEGOBOOST_m36angppq0g76\LocalState\CreativeCanvas\Theme_nnnnnn\Activity_nnn\nnn`.

I'm also not familiar with any tools yet to automate this sort of thing, but it seems like they could be created fairly easily.
> 4 votes

---
Tags: boost
---


# Question
Title: How to check the missing pieces of a given set?
I have a collection of LEGO sets, from which only the B model is assembled and the remaining pieces have been lost.

What is the easiest way to figure out which pieces are missing from these sets?

# Answer
> 4 votes
You can use the Compare Sets function on Rebrickable for that (if the B model is an official model or a MOC on Rebrickable).

Here an example for both official models from the 42069 set.

---
Tags: storage, organisation, alternate-model
---


title: What are these mini figures?

text:
# Question
Title: What are these mini figures?
I have just brought these mini figures and was wondering if anyone could identify them?

# Answer
> 5 votes
The skate board is this one: Minifig, Utensil Skateboard with Trolley Wheel Holders with Minifig Skull on Star and Winged Heart Pattern

With thanks to Rin Rio-Oki

---
Tags: part-identification, minifigures, minifigure-identification
---


# Question
Title: Can you identify this Star Wars LEGO set?
Can anyone identify this Star Wars LEGO set:

Any help gratefully received. I think it's a Star Wars set.

# Answer
> 4 votes
The top and right parts are from the Ninjago Manta Ray Bomber.

The parts on the left are from the Star Wars Magazine Gift Y-Wing.

The panel at the bottom left is from Star Wars Death Star Final Duel (as per Syberion).

# Answer
> 2 votes

---
Tags: set-identification, star-wars
---


# Question
Title: How much do the PF XL motors help speed in the 4x4 crawler?
I'm wanting an answer if anyone has swapped the PF L motors in the 4x4 crawler to PF XL motors and if this increases the speed or not.

# Answer
> 1 votes
You can speed up the Bucket Wheel Excavator by adding an additional XL motor. It is not just about changing the motor, it is also about changing the gear ratios. There is a very good instructional video here: https://youtu.be/aLQh\_VWzy9Y

---
Tags: power-functions
---


# Question
Title: Confused about Power Functions M-motor 8883 and 8293
Is the motor that comes with the Technic power functions motor set (8293) and the stand alone motor 8883 the same? We have just built the LEGO Creator 10261 roller coaster set and it specifies a 8883 with 88000 battery box. Not sure if I have bought the wrong thing with the 8293 set which is on its way. Any guidance appreciated.

# Answer
> 7 votes
Yes, both items contain the same M-Motor part.

---
Tags: technic, power-functions, motor, creator
---


title: M-Tron spaceships complete list

text:
# Question
Title: M-Tron spaceships complete list
In a old LEGO box lost in my garage I found pieces and instructions of various M-Tron models:

* 6811 Pulsar Charger
* 6833 Beacon Tracer
* 6877 Vector Detector
* 6896 Celestial Forager
* 6923 Particle Ionizer
* 6596 Stellar Recon Voyager

In there any place where I can found the complete list of M-Tron sets? I remember at least a couple more: a big wheeled vehicle (found! 6986 Mega Core Magnetizer) and something else.

Is there any "official list" or something similar? Thank you!

# Answer
> 4 votes
BrickSet has a list of items in the Space: M-Tron theme.

---
Tags: theme
---


# Question
Title: How do I connect part 62113 together to form a ladder?
I am looking to build a ladder. I saw part 62113 and was wondering if its possible to connect part 62113? Here's what that part looks like:

# Answer
> 2 votes
There are many ways to connect these together to form something like a ladder. One simple way is to use this fairly common arm element (30377):

This technique is shown on the ladder in the Creator Treehouse (31010):

Here are the relevant instruction steps in case it is hard to see in that photo:

---
Tags: building
---


title: Childhood lego car ID, 1980s early 90s

text:
# Question
Title: Childhood lego car ID, 1980s early 90s
I'm looking to ID 2 sets I had as a kid,

One was a rally car, it was white with a red base, the wheel centres were red. The driver I think was white upper, red or white lower and with a red helmet and white body with stripe from one side to the other of his upper body. I think the car roof had a sun roof, I think the windows and sun roof were blue tint?

The other was a yellow 4wd with a trailer, which I think had a blue motorbike. From memory the 4wd had a black base, the wheels possibly had white centres.

# Answer
I guess the second set you describe is 6677 Motocross racing (from 1986):
> 7 votes

# Answer
Could the first car be the 6634 Stockcar?

The driver would be this, maybe the other sets he appeared in would help.
> 5 votes

---
Tags: set-identification, sets
---


title: What set did this assembly come from?

text:
# Question
Title: What set did this assembly come from?
What set did this assembly come from?

Any ideas? I'm inclined to think it's come from a Star Wars set.

# Answer
> 9 votes
I think I found it:

SW911617-1: Palpatine's Shuttle

it was apparently included in a Star Wars comic magazine in November 2016

How did I do it ?

I'm the author of `pyrebrickable` (Github page here), and by installing the python package `rebrickable-data` we can explore the rebrickable database directly (query it with SQL). Rebrickable contains a seemingly exhaustive set inventories with parts colors etc. In that case, I looked at 3 distinctive parts in your picture:

```
2540 # Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Handle on Side - Free Ends
# thought it was white at first but it is in fact light bluish gray

60471 # Hinge Plate 1 x 2 Locking with 2 Fingers on Side
# in black

3023 # Plate 1 X 2
# in trans-clear

```

By searching in the database for sets that contain at least one of all these parts, I could narrow down to a handful of sets, and in it was that Palpatine shuttle from which we can easily recognize a part of the main ship body

---
Tags: set-identification, star-wars
---


title: How can a sticker be removed?

text:
# Question
Title: How can a sticker be removed?
In my younger days I may have placed a few stickers on my bricks. Including some that covered multiple bricks.

Now my daughter has the tendency to do the same thing :)

How can I best remove the stickers, particularly old ones?

# Answer
> 17 votes
the best way i found out till now is to get them of as good as possible with your nails or a plastic-knife (i wouldn't recommend to use metal knifes or razorblades - if you do, be careful to avoid scratching the bricks surface) and then remove the remaining glue with:

* pure alcohol or
* glass cleaner
* cheap hairspay (spray 2-3 seconds from very close distance and then rub of with a piece of cloth) sometimes also does a good job

# Answer
> 14 votes
I performed my own experiments to determine which methods work by randomly applying three stickers (which are similar to the stickers that come in LEGO sets) onto a simple brick wall.

* Using my **finger nails** to peel the stickers worked well. This is how I've always removed stickers and in my experience, I haven't had any problems doing so.
* Heating the brick wall for 15-30 seconds, evenly with a **hairdryer** made it easier to take the sticker off manually. It was still quite fiddley to pick the corner but the sticker comes off more smoothly.
* Firmly taping over the stickers with **sellotape** and peeling off failed to work, even after several attempts. Two of the three stickers had been peeled into half.
* Sceptical about using a sharp blade to remove a sticker, I'd re-built my LEGO wall out of old, damaged bricks. Using a **craft knife** to remove the stickers was very easy, however there was a risk of scraping the brick and causing damage.

I haven't tried hair spray, pure-alcohol or any other chemical cleaning products.

# Answer
> 11 votes
Best to remove as much as you can by mechanical means (plastic spatula/fingernail, nothing harder unless you like scratching your bricks) then use some 'Sticky Stuff Remover' to get the sticky residue off.

This stuff works on just about anything without leaving a mark, Lego is made from ABS and will not be affected by it.

# Answer
> 5 votes
I have used a razor blade to remove the sticker, then a wee bit of food oil to remove the residual glue.

Sometimes just using some tape and a repetitive dubbing motion have done the trick as well.

# Answer
> 5 votes
If you don't care about preserving the old sticker, remove it with your fingers or a plastic knife and then use rubbing alcohol to remove the remaining sticky bits. As other posters have noted, metal knives/razors leave the risk of scratching the plastic bricks - it all depends on the level of confidence in your knife/razor skills.

I use alcohol instead of harsher chemicals (like glass cleaner or hairspray) to reduce the amount of possibly toxic chemicals on the bricks, since kids will be playing with them after the sticker is removed.

# Answer
> 5 votes
Acetone (fingernail polish remover) works quite well also, I used to use it to get rid of marker and stickers on my LEGO bricks as a kid. Definitely ***do not*** soak your bricks in it though or you will notice your brick will turn out quite rubbery when you remove it! I found that out the hard way.

# Answer
> 4 votes
I use a hair dryer to heat the sticker up a bit. Then a plastic scrapper or plastic knife or fingernail to scrape off the sticker and as much of the glue as possible. The genuine LEGO stickers seem to come off better than the after market stickers. I use a bit of rubbing alcohol on a micro-fiber cloth to remove any residue. The remove any alcohol with a dry micro-fiber cloth.

This leaves nice clean LEGO's.

# Answer
> 3 votes
There is/was a product called Un-Du that would soften the adhesive of stickers so that they could be removed and reused. I was able to find a few links online, so I guess it's still around. The "patented" part of the "Un-Du" product was the tool extension attached to the bottle. The important part is the liquid and that is plain heptane. I haven't checked it against ABS, but I think it's worth a look see

# Answer
> 3 votes
Rapid remover works wonders. Also, hot water soak and then just peel it off.

---
Tags: stickers, disassembly
---


# Question
Title: Can you identify this LEGO minifig head please, black with grey lines and silver eyes?
My son's favorite LEGO minifig head, came in a box of loose LEGO. I have searched hundreds of images and have not found a match.

# Answer
> 8 votes
That is the head of the 2011 Star Wars V-Wing pilot.

It came in 7915 Imperial V-wing Starfighter.

---
Tags: part-identification
---


# Question
Title: Please help identify this set with red, black, and lime colors?
Can someone tell me what it is so I can get instructions for it. All pieces are shown. I removed a couple I hope can help identify it

# Answer
> 5 votes
Based on the printed Atlantis part, this looks like Neptune Carrier (8075-1).

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: Mysterious Part ID help, clear blue disk with electronics inside
My kiddo has recently been given a random parts grab bag, and we’re unable to ID one particular item, of which he has three: anyone know this part?

# Answer
That's a LEGO Dimensions Toy Tag, used to connect the physical toys to the now discontinued LEGO Dimensions game. See it here: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=18603c00a#T=C&C=15

Yours is the plain kind (no printing on top), which means it was not used for a minifig, but for one of the small builds in a LEGO Dimensions set. Here is a list of all the sets the part you have appeared in: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=18603c00a&in=S
> 7 votes

---
Tags: piece-information, part-identification
---


# Question
Title: How can I find the original bag listing for 42083 Bugatti Chiron?
I'm buying a used set (42083 Bugatti Chiron to be specific) and I would like to sort the parts in their original module bags. However, I can only find the complete part list, not the parts per module. Does anyone have a pointer as to how to retrieve the original sorting?

# Answer
> 2 votes
As far as I know there is no such resource on the internet. It's asked from time to time on other fora and groups I frequent, mainly from people who have a collection of bags and want to gather entire sets. The best that can be done to get the parts per module is disassembling the set in reverse order of the instructions...

---
Tags: organisation, set-database
---


# Question
Title: Is it possible to create a custom differential if I don't have it as a ready-to-use element?
I have numerous gears, axles and other elements from different Lego Technic sets. I wonder if using them I can make a kind of differential like this?

If not, how can I implement similar functionality in case I have two motorized wheels on one axis that can be steered and connected to motor(s) via cardans/u-joints like this:

# Answer
This can definitely be accomplished, although it will be difficult to create a differential as small as the dedicated piece that you mentioned.

Some builders create their own differentials for use in larger models because of the inherent torque limits and slippage that the traditional differential and single bevel gears introduce. Here's one example (source) of a differential that can be created using fairly common elements:

The key is to build the frame containing the three gears and then attach a fixed gear to the frame. The tricky part is finding a gear that can pass an axle through the center without being fixed on it. In the example above, half of a turntable was used, but there are a few other parts that could work as well. Here's the turntable (48452):

If you are comfortable with modifying your parts, you could also drill out the center of a gear to allow it to turn freely.
> 9 votes

# Answer
Yes - in fact, you can even improve upon the basic design, to create a limited-slip differential.

Here's one by Rob Stehlik, via http://individual.utoronto.ca/stehlik/torsen.html (found via https://www.planetdiecast.com/index.php?option=com\_zoo&task=item&item\_id=29846)

The key here, which other answers don't note, is that the rotating part of the axle does not have to pass through the *center* of the cog. Instead, here it is offset through the outer holes.
> 7 votes

# Answer
The delicate problem in a brick-built differential is to create the frame. It must have a gear to drive the differential and this gear must let the axle rotate freely. Without parts modification, the only possibility is to use a turntable, either the big one or the small one. Anyway, the solution is bulky and not economical (the differential parts are cheap!). The big version can be interesting nonetheless in large vehicules that require a lot of torque, see here.
> 1 votes

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Tags: technic, building
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title: Extra pieces in 76112 Batmobile

text:
# Question
Title: Extra pieces in 76112 Batmobile
I've been building the new app-controlled Batmobile. As far as I can tell, step 34 shows many more elements in the parts list than are actually used in the build. What is going on here?

# Answer
They are in a perforated bag and the entire contents of the bag is listed. You only need some of them in this step and in a few steps later on. I think such bag is called an "accessory" bag and it is common to have the instructions like this for such bag. The first set that comes to mind that did the same was the Big Ben 10253 where on step 269 on page 187 the entire contents of the bag with minifig tools is listed while you only need 4 times 2 pieces to build the clock arrows.
> 4 votes

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Tags: building, powered-up
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# Question
Title: How many polypags would I need to get to have good odds of getting all in the series?
Despite helpful prior answers about squeezing polybags to determine contents, the new Unikitty! series seems pretty immune to this sort of the effort since all of them are in one of 3 shapes and there are inner bags which make it even harder to feel the parts. So I bought a bunch of polybags from two different stores in the same town. After buying 25+ polybags I'm still 5 short of the set. Is it just bad luck or is my guess of the odds that far off?

# Answer
> 3 votes
It's known as the "Coupon collector's problem". To get all 12 you would on average need to buy 38. Buying a whole box (or finding someone who did and buying a set from them) seems like a much more attractive solution.

# Answer
> 1 votes
If you are on good terms with your lego store, you could buy an unopened box with 60 bags which will guarantee you to have 5 of each. You shouldn't have much difficulty selling the other series, even if the bags are opened, to get your money back.

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Tags: shopping, collectable-minifigures
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# Question
Title: What electronics are inside the LEGO Powered Up hub?
I'm curious what the internals of the new Powered Up hub look like? What components are inside?

# Answer
The bulk of the space inside the Powered Up hub is consumed by the housing for the 6 AAA batteries. A small portion of the top of the hub contains the main printed circuit board. Here's how it looks removed from the hub:

And here's another shot showing the back:

The main chip is very similar to the one used in Boost. It uses an STM32F030 from ST Microelectronics. This includes a 32 bit ARM Cortex-M0 clocked at 48Mhz.

For Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) communication, the Powered Up hub uses a CC2640 from Texas Instruments.

The largest chip on the underside of the board is an LB1836. I haven't done any testing on the traces, but that part is a dual-channel stepper motor driver and is placed near the output ports, so it is almost certainly used to drive the output current to servo motors. The front side includes a pair of 74HC2G125DP chips near the output ports. These are likely used select which CPU pin the output pin is connected to.
> 15 votes

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Tags: electronics, powered-up
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# Question
Title: How to retrieve a deleted program file from the lego NXT
I have been programming a complex file for my Lego Mindstorms NXT. I accidentally deleted my file from the PC, but it is still available on my NXT brick. Is there any way that I can retrieve the file from my NXT and continue programming it? The file is complex, and it will be difficult for me to recreate it. Also, if this helps (or places restrictions), I made the program with the EV3 software (as is backward compatible - and I do have the NXT software also). I haven't tried any methods (I don't know any to try) so I can't tell you what doesn't already work for me.

Also, the PC I used is not mine, so I do not have a way to recover the file from that PC. If I could recover it from my NXT I can get the program on my personal computer. Thanks!

# Answer
According to Wikipedia's Lego Mindstorms NXT page Next Bytes Code (http://bricxcc.sourceforge.net/nbc/) can be used to decompile the bytecode program on the brick. I have however no experience with this, nor have I heard of people being successful with this.
> 1 votes

# Answer
NXT programs are compiled into a program the brick can run. It *might* be possible to pull the compiled code off the brick, but I'm not aware of any disassemblers or decompilers for the compiled programs.

I think your best chance at recovering the program would be to try to recover the deleted file on your PC with a deleted file recovery program.
> 1 votes

# Answer
You can upload a program from the NXT back to the PC, but unless you can interpret the assembly byte code, it won't be of any use to you. A better option might be to try to *recover the deleted file from your PC* (what?? I can do that??).

**This is URGENT. You have to act quickly if you want to recover a deleted file.**
Usually deleted files go to the recycle bin. Assuming it's been deleted from there as well, a deleted file's data is actually *not immediately lost*. That storage space is now liable to be overwritten by other files (hence, *recycle* bin). As long as it hasn't been overwritten yet, the data can be recovered.

1. Close out of all programs on your computer.
2. Grab a flash drive or some other external memory device.
3. Download portable Recuva software from here, *directly to your flash drive*. Change your browser's download settings if necessary.
4. Extract the zip file, again, *directly to your flash drive*.
5. Right click recuva.exe, click "Run as Administrator".
6. A wizard will start that will help you recover deleted files on your hard drive.

Again, the goal here is to use your computer as little as possible in the meantime to minimize the risk that your deleted data will be overwritten.

Good luck!
> 0 votes

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Tags: nxt, programming
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# Question
Title: How to make a Lego Mindstorms ev3 self driving car?
I recently got the Lego Mindstorms EV3 kit. I wanted to make a self driving car, but I got stuck on the building part. I saw another question like this, however it was for NXT and had no decent answers. I need to make a rotating disk on top of the robot for the Ultrasonic sensor; otherwise I would need 2 more sensors to avoid hitting walls. Remember that it needs to fit on top of a moving robot, not be a stationary stand! I got the self driving car to work, but because the sensor was not rotating, it could only see in front of it. I do not know if this is possible with the EV3 kit, but if you know how, please let me know! Anyways, thanks for reading this! :D

# Answer
> 0 votes
I don't have a Lego EV3, but I have created a self-driving car with my NXT brick. I found the instructions from nxtprograms.com, but they are for the NXT. (I'm sure that you can adapt them for the EV3 though). The program is also for the NXT, but nxtprograms provides enough comment blocks that I think you should easily be able to build your own program with the EV3 software.

Here are the instructions: http://nxtprograms.com/NXT2/explorer/index.html

# Answer
> 0 votes
I built mine with an IR sensor on the left, an ultrasonic sensor on the right and some touch sensors in the front and back. It worked really well to get through a track made of wooden blocks and around the room.

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Tags: ev3
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# Question
Title: How many sealed bags are there in the LEGO set 4504 Millennium Falcon?
I'm not sure if this is the correct site for this question. I'm new to LEGO and just acquired an older LEGO Star War Set 4504 Millennium Falcon. The box was open and the sealed bags are not numbered.

I was wondering if anyone knew how many sealed bags there should be in this set.

# Answer
I had a look at the instructions, video/picture reviews of the set and eBay listings that could potentially show how many bags are missing.

The only solution I could think of would be to place all the bags back in the box, with the instructions and any other parts that were included and weigh the box.

If the weight is noticeably less than what it should be, you may be missing a bag. According to Brickset the Millennium Falcon should weigh 1.83Kg (4.03 lb).

Aside from opening the bags and trying to build the set, you could follow the instructions whilst the bags are sealed and check that you have all the parts as you go along, although this may be quite time consuming.
> 3 votes

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Tags: sets, star-wars
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# Question
Title: Are only two new train sets available in August 2018?
I want to get started on LEGO trains. However when I look up which trains sets are available I find only two:

Does that mean I can only buy two different trains for my railway? That seems very limiting. What am I missing here? Are there more trains available?

# Answer
> 9 votes
Those are the two City-themed trains that are currently available. LEGO is currently transitioning to a new electrical system for trains, so that may explain the relatively low number of trains available. There are a couple of other trains available if you are interested in something outside of the City theme.

There's Winter Holiday Train (10254):

And also the new Hogwart's Express(75955) (currently backordered):

These are just the sets currently available directly from TLG. LEGO has produced many, many trains over the years. You can find out-of-production train sets on secondary markets such as Bricklink or eBay.

# Answer
> 9 votes
As jncraton noted LEGO is going through a transitional time now. Sadly trains are not a huge portion of their sales so it tends to ebb and flow through time anyway. So if you want a train definitely grab it while it is for sale widely. If you wait a year or two it could be gone or harder to find.

There are other options however...

# Buy new trains on the aftermarket

You can spend crazy money on old LEGO trains. But there are recent trains that are available at reasonable prices:

Be careful to not go too far back. If you go far enough back track is different and you will run into compatibility issues. The first book I mention in the next section does a good job of going through the history, but it doesn't get into the 2018 trains or their electronics.

# Build with instructions

There are a few books on building trains in LEGO:

https://brickset.com/sets/ISBN1593278195-1/The-LEGO-Trains-Book

I've got the one above. It goes into part by part detail on several train and train car designs. The designs are flexible in that you can change the colors. There are folks who make labels that compatible with these designs as well. I haven't managed to build any of these yet, but I'm working on gathering the parts.

There's another book that came out this year: https://brickset.com/sets/ISBN1513261134-1/Build-It!-Trains

I don't have this one yet, but it looks like it has potential. When it arrives I'll edit this somehow.

# Answer
> 3 votes
The components to motorize trains with the new "Powered Up" system should be available by the end of this year. So you could pick-up some older trains and motorize them yourself at a given point... I did so recently with 10219 Maersk train (2011 set, hard to find, expensive) and components salvaged from the new train and I believe the result is fabulous.

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Tags: shopping, trains
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# Question
Title: XL motor and M motor on IR receiver = same output?
I am really puzzled by my small car build with balloon tires (55976). I tried swapping between an XL and an M (PF) motor, both geared down (up?) to about the same torque (I tested by how sleep a slope it can climb), both motors virtually run the car at the same speed.

I would have thought with the same torque output (just about 3-4 cogs of different sizes in both cases till the differential) the XL would give me much higher speed, at least 1.5 times if not twice, but to the contrary it looked to me like the M motor runs a hair bit faster.

Any ideas guys? I know this is a bit generic, but what could it be?

* there are frictions but in both of my cases they should be roughly the same
* the XL motor is quite a bit heavier
* the IR receiver (v1) has limited output or my batteries don't? (6 AA kind), there is only one more M motor (for steering, so it is off during my test) on the IR receiver, IR receiver attached to the battery box directly
* I am using 2 u-joints for the drive axle instead of a cv joint - could that make so much of a difference?

# Answer
> 3 votes
It seems like you're mixing up gear ratio with torque with power. It sounds like you have the following scenario:
\- same gear ratio
\- same overall vehicle
\- two different motors
\- (almost) same final speed

And you're asking why the different motors don't change the speed much. Here's what I know:

* The vehicle's mass and internal friction place a load on the motor. This is approximately constant for your vehicle, because practically the difference in mass of the M and XL motors is negligible compared to the total load anyway.
* The M motor has a higher unladen speed but a lower overall torque than the XL motor. This means that for the same load, the M motor's speed will be more greatly affected than the XL motor.
* So in this case: your vehicle might drop the XL motor from 200 to 150 RPM, but drops the M motor from 600 to 175 RPM, because the M motor is affected more. Coincidentally this particular load drops both motors to almost the same final RPM.
* If your vehicle were even more massive, the XL motor's speed would drop, but the M would drop even further, quickly becoming slower than the XL. Add enough weight and eventually that M will drop to 0 RPM while the XL will still be chugging along.

# Answer
> 1 votes
I interpreted it differently, I think the OP DID gear down/up the motors until in his opinion they produced the same torque... However I think his methodology to test if the motors have the same torque is widely inaccurate. I don't think you can conclude that two motors with gearing have the same torque if they can handle the same slope when mounted on a vehicle, it would appear to me too many other factors play a role (friction of driving surface, weight, weight distribution,...) Also quite important I think is the current consumption, could very well be that a motor is stalled earlier than te other although they have the same torque because the current is higher and the IR or battery-box protection kicks in.

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Tags: power-functions, motor
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# Question
Title: Are there active electronics in basic Powered Up motors?
Powered Up is a more advanced system than the Power Functions system that it is replacing. Does each component contain active electronics that identify it to the hub that it is connected to?

# Answer
No.

Powered Up does provide the ability to send data between hubs and connected modules via the addition of two additional wires not present in the 4-wire Power Functions system. However, the system appears to be able to operate basic components using only analog control just like Power Functions. For example, here's a look at the internals of the new train motor from Eurobricks:

There are only two components on the board. C2 is a small capacitor in parallel with the motor to address back EMF, and the larger component in the middle is a fuse to prevent damage to the motor or other components when stalled.

You can see in the photo that the two new PU wires (5 and 6, labeled ID1 and ID2) are connected directly to VCC and GND respectively. It would appear that if these connections for ID1 and ID2 are detected by the hub, the component is treated much like a PF component and M1 and M2 are used to control it. Digital electronics are not required.
> 2 votes

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Tags: electronics, powered-up
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# Question
Title: Connecting 2 NXT bricks in order to control motors and sensors from one brick
Is it possible to connect two bricks using a cable (connecting port 4 to port 4) , and then have both programs run by only pressing one button? I want the sensors attached to one brick affect the motors that are attached to the other brick, if possible. I am only using NXT 2.1 programming if that helps. Thanks !

# Answer
What you're describing is not (directly) possible, but you DO have some alternative options:

The standard solution is to use Bluetooth. Two NXTs can communicate with Bluetooth using the Lego software.

1. Pair the NXTs using the on-brick menus.
2. Write programs for both NXT 1 and NXT 2:
    * At the start of the program, NXT 1 initiates a Bluetooth connection to NXT 2.
    * NXT 1 sends a message when it wants NXT 2 to do something; NXT 2 responds when it's finished.
3. Start both programs manually (in this setup, NXT 2 has to start first so it'll be ready when NXT1 connects).

If something less complex is acceptable, you can communicate using light sensors. Attach 2 light sensors facing directly into each other. One NXT can talk to the other by flashing the light on the sensor.

If you're open to alternative languages, LeJOS (Java for Mindstorms) gets you a lot closer to your goal. Through Bluetooth, NXT 1 can remotely start a program on NXT 2, or even access the motors and sensors. You can even communicate over high-speed RS485 by directly wiring two port 4's together, just like you said.

There used to be a 3rd-party NXT-G block for sending data over RS485. With it you could write programs for NXT 1 and NXT 2 like I described above, but with a direct wire between port 4's instead of Bluetooth. It would probably have lower latency than Bluetooth, but it's still not as direct as you would like.
> 2 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, nxt, bricks-and-pieces
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# Question
Title: How to instruct Mindstorms EV3 from PC conditionally?
I want to direct my LEGO Mindstorms EV3 creature from my PC conditionally (ev3dev, Python). The idea is that the program runs on the computer, collects real-time data from different sources, processes them, and instructs the robot via Wifi/Bluetooth step by step. (The data collection and procession is quite computational so the main program cannot be run on the Brick.) The process is basically remote-control but by the PC program directly.

Is it feasible? So far I know only the way when one should upload the full program to the Brick, but this way there is no option to interact with the Brick continuously.

# Answer
> 3 votes
If you are running ev3dev on the EV3, you can use RPyC to remotely execute Python code on the EV3.

Resources:

# Answer
> 1 votes
It's definitely possible and feasible to communicate from a program on your PC through bluetooth with an EV3 brick, several example projects can be found on the internet.

Assuming you want to code Python on your PC, I found this link: http://ev3directcommands.blogspot.com/2016/01/no-title-specified-page-table-border\_94.html

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Tags: ev3, remote-control, ev3dev, python
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# Question
Title: Does LEGO Digital Designer include part 4539880?
Does anyone know if LEGO Digital Designer includes the part 4539880 (often used for housing differentials) ?

# Answer
> 6 votes
Yes, but only one color choice of light bluish gray is available in the default mode.

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Tags: technic, ldd, gears
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# Question
Title: Is it expected that LEGO will produce small (S or XS) PF motors?
The existing LEGO PF motors are the M, L, and XL, making builders suspect that the S and even the XS names were left out and reserved intentionally for later designs. However, the M motor was released ten years ago, and we have not seen any smaller motors.

Are there any (pro or con) signs suggesting that those motors will or will not be released in the future?

# Answer
Generally, speculative questions are considered off-topic, but in this case very little speculation is required to answer the question.

The clear answer is that S or XS PF motors will never be released.

The entire PF system is on its way out and is being replaced by the newer Powered Up system. For this reason, I would expect production on existing PF components to stop soon, and it seems highly unlikely that TLG would introduce new elements for PF at this point.

It is of course possible that they will include smaller motors as part of the Powered Up system at some point.
> 4 votes

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Tags: power-functions, motor
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title: What set is this green sled from?

text:
# Question
Title: What set is this green sled from?
Anyone know what LEGO set this little green sled is from? The pieces rest on a black 6x4 studded plate. The corner cheese wedges and edge rails on the right and left are a dark green (not black).

# Answer
> 8 votes
This is part of Set # 10198-1: Tantive IV

based on the Dark green Panel 1 x 2 x 1 and Tile 1 x 2 with Avionics SW Copper, Red & Silver Pattern

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Mindstorms EV3 education 1.4.2 for Windows crashes when opening second project
The EV3 software opens the first project with no problems, but when I open a second project it crashes and terminates. I tried to install the EV3 software on Windows 10 (MS Surface laptop i7,16GB RAM), or on Windows 7 (Thinkpad i5, 16GB RAM), but problems remain the same.
Please guide me on how to fix it. Thank you very much.

# Answer
> 1 votes
If the same project crashes your software on multiple installations, the problem is the project file itself. Sometimes files get corrupted. Unfortunately the only real solution is to recreate your project.

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Tags: ev3, education
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# Question
Title: Ideas for a price tag on parts from old city set?
I took advice from my previous question and did a bit more research, but I have somethin specific.

I realised I have had a City set with a few more "unique" parts. The set is 7900 Heavy loader. I can't seem to find any information on pieces, but I know it contains a unique Trapezoid, modified tubes, smooth large grey plates and I think I can get something from it.

My question to you is more of a plea for advice. If you're not familiar set, you surely at least have a better eye for old set value than I do. Any suggestion for next move is welcome!

# Answer
> 2 votes
Bricklink price-guides:

The trapezoid: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogPG.asp?P=55767&ColorID=86

The smooth plates: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogPG.asp?P=48288&ColorID=85

Don't know what you mean with modified tube, but this part might be considered a tube and unique: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogPG.asp?P=40244&ColorID=85

Not exactly the most expensive pieces, so I think you'll make more if you sell the set as a whole rather than parting it out...

The Trapezoid price surprises me a bit as I think it is indeed somewhat unique, it appears in 3 sets but the other two sets it appears in, it appears in orange. I would have thought it's a wanted piece as it can be used to make bridges in train layouts...

The large tiles, I wouldn't pay even the rather low bricklink price for them as I have gotten hold of quite a quantity of them when last visiting Legoland Germany, where they were available in bulk at the "Fabrik" shop.

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Tags: shopping, city
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# Question
Title: Is it worth parting out a set to sell without the minifigs?
I wanted to sell my Lego in a bulk, but then decided I don't have a reason not to sort it out.

I do believe I have the Ninjago Earth Dragon (2509), but before I find the pieces, I know a few things about it's condition immediately.

The bricks are good. I've never had problem with the treatment therefore no scratches or broken stuff.

There are NO minifigures or accessories (I sold all my figs in bulk for 20 dollars a while ago, I know I am an idiot)

There is no box or instructions... Just the bricks. Is it still worth the effort?

# Answer
> 3 votes
Not having the minifigs certainly hurts the value of a set, but it may still be worth parting out the set depending on how valuable your time is to you.

If you haven't already done so, you can use the Price Guide feature on Bricklink to get a rough idea of what your set can sell for.

You can also browse the current listings for the set to get an idea of how much missing minifigs hurt the price. For that set, it looks like not having minifigs knocks off about 40% of the value of the set ($24 USD vs $42 USD).

# Answer
> 2 votes
If it is complete (except for the minifigs), I would sell it separately because it is a relatively small set (low weight) with some interesting parts. You might get 10 Euro/Dollars which is still much more than the 10-15 Euros/kg in a bulk sale.

If you have several Ninjago sets, it might be a good idea to sell all of them in one single Ebay auction. Make sure to include all set numbers in the description. When the rare parts (dragon heads etc.) are in very good condition, you could mention this explicitly.

In the past, I bought several sets without minifigs. I looked for offers including the word "without" in the search. So, it might be advantegous to include "without minifigs" in the title.

I know, there are a lot of "could" and might" in the answer, but from my buyer's perspective you might :) consider these things.

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Tags: shopping
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# Question
Title: What is the difference between Star Wars UCS and Master Builder Series?
In the press release for Betrayal at Cloud City (75222) it was noted that this set was part of the Star Wars Master Build Series. What is this? Does this replace the Star Wars Ultimate Collector Series?

# Answer
> 2 votes
Both the Master Builder Series and UCS will continue. Here's the official distinction from the LEGO Star Wars team:

> The Master Builder Series models are large playsets and beside being complex builds they are characterized by having many play features and functions, interior details as well as a range of minifigures. Ultimate Collectors series will remain highly detailed display models providing complex builds with a focus on authenticity and both Ultimate Collectors Series and Master Builder Series will continue as a way to highlight the unique characteristic of each style of model.

It seems like this distinction should help address some of the confusion from fans that UCS sets such as Assault on Hoth (75098) feel very different than the typical large display models.

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Tags: star-wars, theme
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# Question
Title: Can I install EV3 Education software and Retail software side by side?
I have EV3 Retail edition and I like to buy required sensors and build the robots come with the education edition of EV3. I have lots of LEGO Technic spare parts so I expect I can find alternate parts if required.

Can I install EV3 Education software and Retail software side by side?

# Answer
Yes. I have done this on both Windows and Mac.

I've only noticed one minor problem. On Mac, the program ID is the same for both versions, so only one of the two shows up in the Launcher. However you can still start the other by using +`Space`, for example.
> 2 votes

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Tags: ev3
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# Question
Title: Why is the EV3 Ultrasonic Sensor (45504) out of stock?
The EV3 Ultrasonic Sensor (45504) has been out of stock for a long time. Is the sensor discontinued due to an accuracy problem?

Is there an alternate version of "Gyro Boy" that works without the Ultrasonic Sensor and uses Infrared instead?

https://le-www-live-s.legocdn.com/sc/media/lessons/mindstorms-ev3/building-instructions/ev3-model-core-set-gyro-boy-f8a14d8e3d0e63fa23b87f798bf197f4.pdf

# Answer
> 3 votes
Balanc3r is a good alternative for gyro-boy: http://robotsquare.com/2014/06/23/tutorial-building-balanc3r/

However, why do you conclude that the 45504 sensor is out of stock? In my region (Belgium) it can be ordered from the lego website and is listed as "Available", also it is contained in the core educational set (45544) which is certainly still available from various sources...

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Tags: ev3, sensor-ultrasonic, sensor, gyro
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# Question
Title: How can I firmly attach a Technic triangle to a turntable?
I found a couple good technic triangle designs over on brickengineer.com. For example:

How can I firmly attach a triangle to a large turntable?

Details:

* Really I only need to attach parts at the points of an equilateral triangle. These triangles are for example only; Solutions don't necessarily need to use these specific triangle designs.
* The setup should be able to rotate while bearing a small amount of weight (hence the turntable).

# Answer
> 3 votes
Have to say I'm not a big fan of the triangles you've already posted. In my opinion the half beams on the corners are too close together, causing stress on the elements. Triangular technic designs are certainly possible, the following elements are useful:

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=10288

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=57585

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Tags: technic, building
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# Question
Title: Is there an official LEGO terminology for the features of basic pieces?
When I read this question I remember to regularly ask myself what the features of bricks are called. At the top are there nibbles, knobs, or studs? At the bottom are there tubes? New bricks also have little "support walls" (?) at the bottom, known from DUPLO, how do you call these? Is there an official LEGO terminology at least for the most common types of features shown in this image?

# Answer
For an official position, you may want to check older LEGO catalogues or instructions to see if they're naming things, and how. While you can find some names for complete elements in, for example, service parts catalogues, I don't think you'll find much for specific subparts.

Given the 1958 patent illustration, it's likely the patent itself named subparts, and more specifically studs and tubes. The original Kiddicraft patent called studs "bosses", by the way.

Keep in mind LEGO has, until recently, be very protective of what it's been doing internally; as such, the community as a whole didn't have much info, so that a lot of current nowadays terminology isn't official, but rather derived from public habit.

However, that's changed a lot recently, and LEGO isn't as shy as it was when it comes to publish internal data such as colour names and numrical IDs, design IDs, parts IDs, and even part names. The only problem is that they never bothered to have a truly consistent naming scheme, and the fact that English isn't the main language of Denmark doesn't help.

Yet it does help us find official subpart names, which we can hunt through the online pick-a-brick selection.

The first one is a shocker: the "stud" is, in fact, called "knob" (the fan-nicknamed "jumper plate", or LDraw's "Plate 1 x 2 with 1 Stud", being officially a "Plate 1X2 W. 1 Knob", and there are numerous other examples).

The small pins inside 1xn bricks are "pins" (LDraw's "Brick 1 x 2 without Centre Stud" is a "Brick 1X2 Without Pin"). But as connection point on some elements, they are called "Shaft Ø 3.2" (LDraw's "Minifig Accessory Helmet Viking Horn" is "Horn W. Shaft Ø 3.2")

The clip is a "holder" (LDraw's "Brick 1 x 1 with Clip Vertical" is "Brick 1X1 W. Holder, H0rizontal" (sic) or sometimes a "snap" (LDraw's "Bar 7 x 3 with Double Clips" is "Lattice 1X4x6 W. Snap").

I suppose you could find more, but it's rather time-consuming :-)
> 11 votes

# Answer
The bumpy-things on the top of a brick are called **studs**.

At the bottom of the brick, the holes that the studs go into are called **tubes**.

As far as I know, there are no parts of a brick called nibbles or knobs.
> 7 votes

# Answer
Yes, here is the basic terminology Lego bricks names list.
> 6 votes

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Tags: terminology
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# Question
Title: Is it possible to use 5 motors on an EV3 brick?
The EV3 brick has only four output ports (A B C & D) to run motors. Is there any way to use port 1 (sensor port) to control a motor?

# Answer
A sensor port can't directly output to a motor. The sensor drivers can't provide enough power to supply a motor.
You have a couple options:

* Daisy-chain two EV3s together. The first can control the sensors and motors of the second.
* Use an electronic motor multiplexer. EDIT: It should be noted that this requires an external power supply, which will increase the cost and complexity of your project.
* Depending on your project, you might be able to make do with only 4 motors. See this response for driving multiple outputs with a single motor.
> 8 votes

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Tags: ev3, programming, motor
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# Question
Title: Why do some LEGO City vehicles have tiles in their chassis?
While building 60150 Pizza Van, I noticed that the first few steps of building the eponymous vehicle have you place lime green 1x2 tiles in specific positions and black 1x2 plates in others:

These then get covered completely by light grey 2x16 plates (although you can still see them just behind the wheels and mudguards of the finished model):

A similar use of tiles appears in other LEGO City vehicles, such as the ambulance in 60204 LEGO City Hospital.

Why are tiles used in parts of the chassis construction? Is it to (slightly) reduce the number of studs holding onto the tubes of the 2x16 plates, thereby making them easier to remove when taking things apart later?

# Answer
> 12 votes
I asked one of the set designers at LEGO, Samuel Johnson, on Twitter. Here is our conversation:

> This to aid in the building flow for children aged 5 and up. Easy to spot on the page, easy to find in the pile of bricks :)
>
> https://twitter.com/Spider\_Sam\_LEGO/status/1037914372897681409

> Ah! Do both the colour and the shape (studless vs studded) contribute to this?
>
> https://twitter.com/NOVALISTIC/status/1037914613847740416

> Depends on the model :)
>
> 5year olds aren’t very strong, so it can make it easier to build
>
> https://twitter.com/Spider\_Sam\_LEGO/status/1037967767847227392

> That makes sense. Too many stud-and-tube connections can make building difficult even for me at times. Thanks for answering!
>
> https://twitter.com/NOVALISTIC/status/1037994518295994368

So, it's an interaction of several factors including ease of following the instructions, as well as ease of physically attaching elements together (and, presumably in turn, disassembling them).

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Tags: building, design, city
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title: Identification of rare (?) pieces

text:
# Question
Title: Identification of rare (?) pieces
Recently, I bought a large LEGO collection in which, during the sorting, I found some pieces I'm completely unable to identify. Moreover, seeing some of them I doubt if they are LEGO at all (could be parts of an assembly though).

Here is a photo of the unidentified pieces:

I hope you can recognize them, please let me know if more photos would be necessary.

Higher resolution photos of #2 with the cup for scale (I really doubt it is a LEGO item but it might be a part of a motor or something):

# Answer
1 is a pin used to hold train track pieces together during shipping. It can be discarded but some people find uses for it since it fits in a. minifig's hands.

Many of the others are official Lego as can be seen by the brand name printed on them. On the large pieces you should be able to see an ID number printed underneath which will help you out. I'll work through identifying some of the others.

3: Bionicle Gear 8 Tooth with Rhotuka Spinner Rod 2.5L

4: Appendage Spiky / Bionicle Spine / Seaweed / Plant Vine

5: Modified 2x2 Racing Driver, no head

6: Bar 1L with Top Stud and 2 Side Studs (credit to Victorious Victini)

7: Train Coupling New

8: Bionicle 2x3 Axle Connector with Tooth

9: Hinge Brick 1 x 2 Locking with 1 Finger Top

12: Leg Skeleton with Black Square Foot

13: Bar 1 x 8 with Brick 1 x 2 Curved Top End (most likely this newer version, but there are some older ones as well) (credit to Victorious Victini)

14: Fairing, 1x2 Stepped with Two Pins

15: Batwing

16: Modified 1x4 with Angled Tubes

17: Not Lego

18: Fire hose nozzle

19: Bionicle Weapon Cordak Ammo

20: Road Sign Clip-on 2 x 2 Square with Curved Blue Lines and Small Black Squares Pattern

21: Bat-a-rang

22: LEGO Minifig, Weapon Bladed Claw (mostly from Wolverine)

23: Horn Large

24: Minifig, Utensil Space Scanner Tool. (credit to Rin Rio-Oki)
> 10 votes

# Answer
I found a few more:

6: Ø3.2 Shaft With Cored Knob

13: Brick With Shaft 1X8X1
> 7 votes

# Answer
A Few More:

02: ~~LegoTechnic Driving Ring Extension.~~

24: Minifig, Utensil Space Scanner Tool.
> 7 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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