title: Container part identification

text:
# Question
Title: Container part identification
Please help me identify the set this part belongs to, we are going through three tons of bricks and try to put the sets together again...

# Answer
That looks like Container, X-Pod Barrel Section 10 x 10 x 3 1/3, which were used to store bricks for X-Pod sets.

Such container was available in Trans-Red in single set 4415, Auto Pod

And 4417, Aero Pod was the only set to use it Trans-Yellow
> 12 votes

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification
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# Question
Title: Which set does this flywheel-like assembly belong to?
Please help me identify the set this part belongs to.

# Answer
This assembly consist of two parts. Well, technically, four parts, as there are two Technic 2L pins in Black, but these come in multiple sets so out of interest.

Top one in Orange is Flywheel Fairing Lion Shape with Gold and Blue Feathers Pattern (70102)

And the bottom one is Flywheel Plate 2 x 8 with Metal Flywheel and Dark Azure Tire (Chima Rip Cord Base)

Top part was available only in 70102, CHI Waterfall set. And the bottom one was included in 22 sets.
> 8 votes

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification
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title: I want to hang a skull on my wall

text:
# Question
Title: I want to hang a skull on my wall
I want to hang a few of the Rock Skull with Pins on my wall. What parts do I need to connect the pins?

# Answer
> 4 votes
Any Technic brick (or combination of several) with 3 or more holes on the side. Technic, Brick 1 x 4 with Holes is a best single piece that can be used to attach skull without any holes being visible.

Alternatives are:

Technic, Brick 1 x 1 with Hole \+ Technic, Brick 1 x 2 with Holes

Or two of Technic, Brick 1 x 2 with Hole

If you need anything without studs, you can look into Technic Liftarms.

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Tags: design
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# Question
Title: What is the maximum size of Lego instruction booklets?
I am preparing a shelf and, given that LEGO instruction booklets these days are often more like actual little books than the small booklets we had as children, a section of that shelf will be reserved for LEGO instruction booklets.

Therefore, I am interested in the maximum size (width and, in particular, height) that instruction booklets come in so far. To start, I'm assuming a height of 26cm (that's the largest booklets I have here right now), but maybe there are even taller ones?

Note that this question is similar to *What are the measurements of the different Lego instruction booklets?*, however, I am not asking for a list of all sizes, just for the maximum size I would have to reckon with. Therefore, as opposed to the other question, it is also irrelevant to me which sets are (or will be) there in particular - one level in the shelf that is tall enough to fit in all instruction booklets (standing upright, like books) will last for a while, and if that level (let's say, of 1m in width) gets filled, it's time for another solution, anyway.

EDIT: Note that I am based in Europe and, in case instructions come in different sizes for different parts of the world, it can be reasonably assumed that all of the sets will be bought in Europe.

# Answer
> 7 votes
While there are multiple sizes of instructions and lack of database with dimensions my answer is based on personal observation.

Looking at the stash of my instructions from multiple sets (including several largest Technic models) I can state that the largest dimension I have is of A4 paper size, which is 210 x 297 mm. I'd like to note that this is for Europe based sets. There might be different sizes for other markets as LEGO provides two options for their instructions online - optimized for A4 as well as Letter sized paper.

**Edit 1.** As masterX244 pointed out in the comments Star Wars UCS sets may have bigger instructions. This review on Brickset of SW UCS set with highest number of parts (75192 Millennium Falcon) says instructions are 42 x 29 cm in size. This is very close to A3 paper size, which is twice the size of A4.

Picture below, from the very same review by Brickset, shows the instruction relative to side of the box (45 x 39 cm).

**Edit 2.** JPhi1618 found that UCS Star Destroyer 10030 set has a booklet that is slightly larger - 43 x 30 cm (landscape orientation, including the spiral)

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Tags: instructions, size
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# Question
Title: Could not find this LEGO brick, any ideas?
Could you identify this LEGO brick? No ID number found on it...

Many thanks!

# Answer
> 6 votes
That's Legs without Split, which were used for the very first LEGO minifigures.

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Tags: part-identification
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title: Sloped pieces in winter scene

text:
# Question
Title: Sloped pieces in winter scene
I'm trying to build a winter scene similar to this scene. Can anyone identify the large sloped/curved white pieces on the rivers edge, near the bottom of the picture?

# Answer
Looks like Windscreen 6 x 4 x 1 Curved. This piece doesn't come in any of opaque colors yet.
> 9 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Where is an instruction sheet for Ausini set 25418 guitar?
I bought an Ausini brick set AUS-25418, which is a guitar, however as cheap as it was the price, it didn't have the building instructions, at least it looks like no piece bags or stickers are missing.

Does anyone happened to have those around? I would really appreciate any picture you could send me.

Here is a picture of the model:

I Googled for them for some days and send messages to a distributor but never received a reply. I even tried to build it from pictures of the finished model with no success.

# Answer
> 3 votes
***Attack on the Clones: The Purist Punch-Back!***

I'm posting up these clone brick instructions at the very bottom below, but I'm going further by offering a *free digital instruction file* to build this model with official *LEGO* bricks through *Bricklink.com* instead.

This model has 3 pieces that aren't direct clones,so they don't exist in *LEGO*, but we can easily use alternative pieces and make their need a non-issue.

1. *2 x 2 plate with Inverted Studs.*
2. *2 x 2 1/3 Curve Top Brick.*
3. *Roof Tile 2 x 2 x 2/3 Plate.*

The only left over issues are the stickers (the "wow" text, blue flame effects), and the screen printed 2x4 black tile, which represents the six round yellow tuning pegs on the headstock of the guitar. I haven't looked for equivalent official *LEGO* ones, which may or may not exist.

I just used an alternate build to replace all printed art that came with this set.

These clone knock-off brands are straight up shameless. It would be just to reverse their blasphemy, knock them off financially, and offer plans to their designs in official *LEGO* for free.

I wouldn't mind finding the most interesting/popular *Clone Brands*, and just go to town on them. I realize in most cases it will be more expensive, but at least there will be an alternative for the purist who might be less inclined to patronize these clone pirates.

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Tags: building, instructions, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: Opposite brick of Brick, Modified 1 x 2 with Studs on 1 Side
I was wondering if there was an opposite brick to this one:

Basically, I am looking for a 1 x 2 brick with two holes on the side where I could join the brick mentioned above.

# Answer
Your best chances are with Technic, Brick 1 x 2 with Holes. Although LEGO considers such connection illegal depending on application (see slides 2, 11 and 12 of this presentation by Jamie Berard). However it works without major issues.
> 3 votes

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Tags: piece-information
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title: LEGO sticky after painting?

text:
# Question
Title: LEGO sticky after painting?
Why are my LEGO still sticky after I paint them? I use primer beforehand but the acrylic paint is still tacky hours after they're painted. Thanks!

# Answer
> 2 votes
I suspect that you used an acrylic paint with a solvent that softens ABS plastic.

Your bricks may take quite some time to harden.

It's possible they never will.

# Answer
> 1 votes
Sticky paint is usually caused by painting over a coat that wasn't fully dry. If you did not wait several hours after applying primer, that would be the cause.

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Tags: plastics
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# Question
Title: Adding Power Functions to LEGO Mack Anthem Truck (42078)
Does anyone have experience adding *Power Functions* to set *#42078 LEGO Mack Anthem* truck?

It’s a *Technic* set, but only features manually actuated functions.

I have seen it motorized on *YouTube*, even though a Power Function option is not mentioned on the box. Any details on how to do it would be very much appreciated.

# Answer
> 3 votes
There is this thread on Eurobricks:

42078 Mack Anthem Mods and improvements

Also this youtube video

KlikBriks Lego Technic MACK Anthem (RC MOD) l Instructions

# Answer
> 0 votes
There is an instruction on Rebrickable on how to motorize the truck. Please be aware that instructions are not free (I'm not affiliated with model designer).

This gives you list of parts you need to have to complete the motorization.

You can also check Rebrickable for other 42078 set and Mack related modifications, alternate and unique models with instructions (free or paid) available for each of them.

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Tags: technic, power-functions
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# Question
Title: What do these numbers on the top of these mini linear actuators denote?
I'm building 42082 and there are 4 of these but 3 unique numbers in the tops.

* 20X8 on two
* 29X8 on one
* 35X8 on another

I'm guessing they are serial numbers from machines that made them but I wondered if someone had a better idea.

# Answer
First two digits represent week of production followed by a year.

20X8 - 20th week of 2018.

These codes used for quality control. LEGO Customer Service may ask you to provide this number if there were an issue with a set or particular part.

Similar code exist on box seals too.
> 10 votes

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information
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title: Please help to identify the LEGO Set

text:
# Question
Title: Please help to identify the LEGO Set
Please help to identify the LEGO Plastic Bags # (Pack 1-610S7, Pack 2-210S7) I can't even scan the code, it is too small from the camera. These are the packs left over from my son and the boxes were thrown out. Thank you\]

# Answer
> 7 votes
These parts belong to 42060 set.

Identified by unique combination of Technic, Liftarm 1 x 3 Thick with Black '40 1977 - 2017' and 24 Tooth Gear Pattern

and Technic, Panel Fairing # 2 Small Smooth Short, Side B in Orange

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Some of these Blues are not like the other Blues
I'm sorting through used Lego bricks and found that in some stacks of blue bricks there are slightly different shades. I can't find a common shade of blue that matches and I'm not certain that it's not just fading or discoloration due to time and exposure. However there seem to be only 2-3 distinct shades which makes me think they're actually different colors.

Can anyone help identify what color they might not be if not Blue?

For comparison, I've put some of these blue bricks next to my color board of common blueish colors: from left to right Bright Light Blue, Sand Blue, Medium Blue, Medium Azure, Dark Azure, Blue, and Dark Blue

Note the one with the arrow seems very similar to the one 2 to the right of it and is duller & darker than the reference Blue piece, though not as dark as Dark Blue.

# Answer
> 7 votes
It looks like these darker are the same bricks in Blue that have simply "yellowed" over time, which changes the shade of the color. Another answer explains the reason behind this process.

# Answer
> 4 votes
As Alex mentioned, part of the variance can be attributed to yellowing, especially the ones pointed at with the arrow. For the remainder, I think you are looking at variations in color introduced in the production process ... see this question for more details: LEGO color discrepancies and tint variations

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Tags: colour
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title: 2x2x2 cube with smooth plate on bottom?

text:
# Question
Title: 2x2x2 cube with smooth plate on bottom?
I have a follow-up to my previous question about building a 6x6x6 smooth-sided cube.

Do these three pieces create a 2x2x2 cube, smooth on top and bottom, and all four sides, with the height exactly the same as the width and the length?

For completeness, can someone provide a sketch?

AFOL, returning to the LEGO universe. Thanks.

# Answer
Yes. 1x1 Brick dimensions are 5x5x6 units. 1x1 Plate/Tile dimensions are 5x5x2 units. Since we have the top surface measured 2x2 studs, this brings us to top with 10x10 units in size. From here we need to construct a side of 10 units too. Taking out top and bottom tiles (10-2-2) we are left with 6 units, which is exactly a height of a brick.

Here's an example:
> 8 votes

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Tags: piece-information, design
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# Question
Title: Is it possible to buy a bulk of 1000s of basic bricks (mostly 2x4)?
Several years ago I remember being able to walk into toy shops and actually shovel lego bricks into a bag and thus buy them in bulk. Unfortunately I can't seem to find stores anymore that offer this service.

Is it possible to buy the basic blocks in bulk anywhere online?

# Answer
The LEGO Store has the Pick-a-Brick service, which allows you to bulk buy elements, up to 999 of any one element apparently.

It's not necessarily the cheapest, for example 2x4's are GBP£0.19 each, so purchasing 999 of them would cost me £189.81 plus shipping - there's no obvious savings/discounts for bulk ordering.

As Refro points out, BrickLink might be a better option: the prices are more variable, but often cheaper than PaB, discounts for bulk purchases can be found from some sellers, but shipping costs might be higher depending on where the seller is based relative to you.
> 12 votes

# Answer
Besides the options mentioned above there is a lugbulk program targeted at afols. If your a member of a LUG you might be able to order bricks that way. Typically the prices are lower than if you order via the Lego stores.

As an alternative you could use bricklink to get the desired amounts.
> 10 votes

# Answer
> Several years ago I remember being able to walk into toy shops and actually shovel lego bricks into a bag and thus buy them in bulk.

Official LEGO retail stores offer a similar service called Pick-A-Brick, which is available online and in stores. Despite having the same name, they each have their own differences:

* The LEGO retail outlets house a matrix of bins, each filled with a certain type of brick. The bricks used tend be excess bricks from LEGO's own factories and some bricks of the same kind may be included in more than one bin. Bricks are packed into small or large plastic cups, you pay for getting as many bricks as you can in one cup.
* The online version of Pick-A-Brick allows you to choose between thousands of individual pieces and colours. Parts are sold by the brick, each with their own prices with an additional fee for postage, packaging and handling involved.
* Then there are also the LEGOLAND stores which aren't classified as LEGO stores (despite The Lego Group having a large chunk in the theme park company). These too offer a similar Pick-A-Brick service, with a larger range of parts then the average LEGO retail store. Since the stores are located inside the park you must pay admission to the park to browse the shop.1

> Unfortunately I can't seem to find stores anymore that offer this service.

There are many unofficial stores dedicated to selling LEGO.2 It's possible that some of these independent stores would offer their own service which typically sells bricks by weight.

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1. Incidentally, I had contacted the Legoland Windsor representatives in 2010 to see if it's possible to visit the store without paying admission. 'You will need to purchase a full day ticket on arrival but as long as you return to guest services within 30 minutes these will be fully refunded'.

 2. I haven't come across any independent LEGO stores living in England but I've seen a few in Eastern European counties.
> 8 votes

# Answer
If you go to the Lego store and get a case of 2x4 bricks, it'll cost about $70. People in my LUG have found that you can expect to find about 675 per case, which puts them at about 10 cents a piece.

We found this to be significantly cheaper than Lego's online Pick-a-Brick, or Bricklink.
> 6 votes

# Answer
You can also buy bricks on brickowl.com. They cost about 20 cents each thus you can get 50 for 10 AU dollars.
> 1 votes

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Tags: shopping, pick-a-brick
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title: Is this online shop legit?

text:
# Question
Title: Is this online shop legit?
I am wondering if this site is legit or no because I want to buy this LEGO set.

Here is the screenshot:

You can see the URL in the image.

# Answer
That's a scam. I was going to write reasons why it is so, but there are so much red flags all over this website, I don't know where to begin.. Even Chinese copy cost more.
> 5 votes

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Tags: lego-store
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# Question
Title: What set did this Technic container come from?
This box has a lot of Technic LEGO pieces but I don't know which set this is from. The box is small, violet.

# Answer
That's Container, Throwbot / Slizer 'Flying' Case Lid

This item in Purple color was available in two sets.
> 5 votes

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Tags: part-identification, technic
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title: Has anyone made LEGO fly?

text:
# Question
Title: Has anyone made LEGO fly?
It may not be the ideal material. But has there ever been a LEGO model airplane with the ability to glide, under power maybe, or some other kind of successful lifting airship? Helicopter, blimp, kite, even rocket? Sliding down a string doesn't count. Has anyone produced any kind of limiting analysis for this problem?

# Answer
**Non powered/motorized flight has been achieved**

**Bamboo copter**

Anna Vuurzoon made a Flying machine using only Lego parts which uses a ripcord to propel a three blade propeller on a stick (see http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/288875). I was able to duplicate her results, so can validate it does work. It is really a modification of a bamboo copter. The 2015 Ninjago Lego Airjitzu series ( Lego #70739, 70740, 70741, 70742, 70743, 70744) are bamboo copters and work on the same basic concept as Anna Vuurzoon's flying machine.

**Glider design**

Daron Williams (via Drat Glider) and Milan "grohl" Reindl from Czech Republic have both reported making working/flying Lego gliders using mainly Technic cross-axles components. Both gliders travelled between 20 to 30 feet with the Drat Glider with the bigger wingspan going a bit longer. The wing cross section is more or less flat (one stud tall airfoil) and acting more like an air sail (paraglider) than an airfoil. Williams uses Lego Plastic sheets from the Mars Exploration Rover Set to cover the wing (wing cowling). Plastic sheets is the lightest wing covering that can be used but Lego does not make very large ones. Reindl uses plastic from garbage bag and tape to cover the wing on his glider - this allows for a bigger but heavier cowling. I have made my own Lego glider using the plastic from Lego store bags as my wing canvas using similar construction techniques as Williams and Reindl . My preliminary indoor flying test validate the results by Williams and Reindl. Milan Reindl is now a Lego Group junior designer (you can see his profile on Lego Technic Designer Profile).

http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/1769

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3CQcCoZ9rcY

**The Challenge:**

Lego does not make a quality aerial propeller or water/hydrodaulic screw-prop with a fuel efficient power stroke. The aerial propeller design for an all-electric aircraft have already be optimized by the Radio control aircraft community and can be fitted to a Technic axle but modern aerial prop design need to run from 4000 to 10000 rpm and use poly lithuim batery packs and motors that run at higher current and voltage than the Lego power function components.

The Vuurzoon design takes a lot of torque/power to fly and uses the power that it is given inefficiently. The only thing going for the Vuurzoon prop design is that it has the most efficient rotor angle to create lift. The Vuurzoon design uses hand power instead of electrical power and thus avoids the low power limitation of Lego electrical motors and battery pack systems. Lego motors without gearing don't go above 2000 rpm at their set voltage/current level and have a high weight to power ratio which is bad for flying. Going over an 8:1 gearing causes a Lego motor to lose so much power/torque that any propellers slow down due to wind resistance (even the most energy efficient light weight two blade electrical propellers has this problem). Lego motors can go a bit faster if pumped with higher current and higher voltage from a non standard non-lego power source (e.g. poly-Lithium +15V power pack) but many believe this will shorten the motor lifespan. Lego Power Function electrical packs are also too heavy for flight the lightest battery pack is a Li-ion rechargable pack which weights about 75 grams. The heaviest Lego battery pack is the AA battery pack with alkline batteries which weights 195 grams — which is enough to sink a two catamaran hull or a large single hulled lego boat. Standard Lego bricks are too heavy for an heavier-than-air airframe. The lightest Lego parts that can be used as an air frame are the technic axles followed by the half width technic beams— both are only semi-ridge so some bracing is need if air frame rigidity is required. In order to get a battery pack light enough and with sufficient voltage levels to fly as part of the aircraft — Lego needs to have to Lithium polymer battery pack kicking out between 18vdc to 30vdc — at those voltage levels the mini hi RPM motors used on Quadcopters and helicopter toys can start to be posssible.

## Analysis of other attempts

**Lego Quadcopter**

There are several efforts to use Lego to make the frame of a quadcopter and uses a non lego high speed lightweight motors, hi powered batteries, and electric propeller. The high speed motors usually run at 3400 to 15000 rpm @ 13 to 30 vdc and are very light weight. In addition it is using a non lego Poly-Lithium power pack some output as high as 30vdc even with heavy current drains. Some are using a Arudino microprocessor like device for remote communication.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DkrTJh0H1fs

http://robotsquare.com/2012/03/02/flying-lego/

http://tinkernology.blogspot.com/2010/08/lego-nxt-quadcopter-no-really.html

http://www.suasnews.com/2012/12/20276/drone-made-of-lego-takes-flight/

**Lego NXT Blimp-Airship**

A lighter than air Lego Airship which was made by The Lego Group for a European Lego show/convention — uses Lego education propellers (from the renewable energy kit) and standard Lego motors and power supply. Prototype (non-commerical, custom made) helium balloons are used to create a neutral buoyancy so that the propellers can create lift and push the airship forward. The Lego airship (called the C5) was demonstrated in an auditorium/stadium with a very high ceiling (there is no wind of any kind that the Airship would have to overcome).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GefwcBUioAE
> 35 votes

# Answer
LEGO seems to be way too heavy and not aerodynamic enough to build a plane so the best bet would be to build a zeppelin.

There's a video on youtube that shows such a zeppelin where the nacelle is build with LEGO (not sure if it's pure LEGO, take a look at it at about 1:55 in the video).

Another, much simpler example using only 5 helium-balloons and a 9V-motor: youtube-video

After some more searching I found this video. A LEGO-model of a Bell-Boeing V-22 that looks like it lifts off and flies by the power of his own engine but is suspended by wire.

**Conclusion:** Flying lego is possible when you add some none-lego-parts - building a zeppelin seems to be really easy using some helium-balloons while building an aircraft without suspension is not possible (or at least: not if you plan to use LEGO-motors as they simply don't have enough power).
> 19 votes

# Answer
Some family built a LEGO quad-copter. Unsurprisingly, it uses non-LEGO parts. Also, the design might seem a bit weird and worst of all, it's glued (uuurrrgh).

But it does work and appears to be very stable, enough to provide a nice remote camera view.
> 6 votes

# Answer
Not a pure Lego solution, as it uses helium balloons for lift, but it is (mostly) made from Lego and also uses a Mindstorms NTX for control.

Article on engaget

Direct link to YouTube vidio
> 5 votes

# Answer
The Brick Experiment Channel on Youtube shows a Lego Drone that flies. It's built with a combination of Lego propellors, Lego Power Functions L motors, a Lego frame, and some non-Lego flight-control computer, radio receiver, and batteries.

https://youtu.be/wUVvQk7XLd4

This is a truly amazing feat, showing how deep knowledge of the Lego motors and technic gear ratios can lead to tricks nobody believed possible, such as flight or breaking steel. I didn't think it was possible until I saw this video. A pure Lego solution would have to replace the flight controller, RF recveiver, and batteries with something like a Control+ Powered Up hub, which has a tilt sensor, bluetooth, and batteries, but is so much larger it would almost certainly be too heavy to fly, not to mention not well suited to the task of maintaining level flight for a drone (I doubt it's possible with a stock Powered Up solution to control motor power levels quickly enough in order to correct flight direction, but I've been wrong before).
> 3 votes

# Answer
Try Using Foam wings, and if you have the money, you could probably add motors, you would just need a *Fast* motor and the smallest battery box. I have a science fair and I'm going to use foam wings, Check it out!!!
> 2 votes

# Answer
I'm surprised to see that nobody has yet mentioned Peter Sripol's functional RC airplane constructed from LEGO!

It's not a "pure" solution - the powertrain, electronics, and control linkages are all constructed from hobby-grade products, not official LEGO, some pieces were cut to size, and some non-LEGO components were glued or taped in order to secure them to the LEGO components, but the airframe itself was otherwise constructed from LEGO using legal techniques.

For those who might not be able to watch the video or are uninterested in viewing the whole thing, the fuselage is mostly Technic and 1xN plates, with Technic beams supporting the wings and control surfaces, which are constructed from baseplates, except for the vertical stabilizer, which is constructed from bricks. The plane itself uses a 3-channel control scheme (power, pitch, yaw) controlled by traditional RC hobby-quality servos, receiver, battery, ESC, brushless motor, and propellor. The dimensions of the aircraft appear to be roughly one meter wingspan by one meter fuselage length. The wings and control surfaces, being constructed of baseplates, are not true airfoils, and instead generate lift and pitch/yawing moments by airflow deflection, aided by the ample thrust of the powerful motor and large propellor. The plane appears to be very difficult to control and prone to stalls, spins, and fluttering, but it does fly, if only for a couple minutes.
> 2 votes

# Answer
I made a 100% LEGO flying machine. It's built from three parts:

1. Propeller number 30333,
2. An axle (female end) Technic pin (male end two spaces),
3. A three inch axle.

To fly it you hold it in your hands and slide them past each other spinning the contraption. The highest it's flown is about six feet, I've made other ones similar with different pieces but now this seems the most comfortable to spin.
> 1 votes

# Answer
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpttq5IlPx8

no joke, this video is a flying pure lego helicopter.

he just uses a nxt/mindstorms motor

and the blades do have pitch so it makes sense for it to fly
> -1 votes

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Tags: building
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# Question
Title: 6x6x6 cube with smooth plates on bottom?
Adult, returning to Legoland and the world of LEGO.

I'm interested in building a static 6x6x6 cube that is smooth on all six sides. I can see how to get the top smooth, using an appropriate build up with blocks and plates, and capped with smooth tiles.

The sides are easy, of course, just being the sides of blocks and other pieces.

But what about the bottom? What works for reversing the studs, so that smooth tiles can be used for the final finish on the bottom?

I would like the final build to be rock solid, exactly 6x6x6 -- no movement like a rubik's cube needed at all.

Just interested in best techniques for a smooth bottom, before I order parts for my bigger build. Want to limit pieces to standard blocks, plates, and smooth tiles.

Suggestions, threads to review, links to solutions?

PS: Sorry I couldn't post tags like: "6x6x6 cube tiles smooth"; suggestions welcome.

# Answer
> 18 votes
While there could be various approaches building studless the easiest one would be with Tile, Modified 2 x 2 Inverted. These modified tiles have studs on one side, which fit under bricks and plates, and smooth surface on the other side.

Here is a prototype which features equal 6-stud (or 30 modules) long sides. Parts can be changed upon availability, but it gives the idea how high you need to go to reach 6-stud height. Red parts are modified tiles mentioned above.

# Answer
> 12 votes
As mentioned in another answer, there are dedicated pieces for this now.

But... 6x6x6 cube is plenty big enough to have a stud-reversing construction inside, then the bottom can be a simple 6x6 plate with regular smooth tiles.

For example put some of these inside the cube:

# Answer
> 5 votes
Your question sparked an idea of making a completely symmetrical 6x6x6 cube with the same tile on each face.

This is what I came up with:

The LDCad file is here.

Parts list: 6x-10202, 8x-26604, 8x-30414, 2x-3958

I used only parts available in LDCad version 1.6b

# Answer
> 2 votes
I had a whole bunch of pieces that were flat, 2x2 with studs on both sides. They were not actually LEGOs but some knock-off brand - I want to say Tyco? Not sure, it's been a while, but it was 100% compatible. I used them for this sort of thing all the time. It annoyed me that there weren't any official LEGO pieces that served this purpose at the time, but the off-brand ones worked well enough.

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Tags: design, piece-usage
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# Question
Title: Differences in varieties of 2x2 tile ( 3068 3068a 3068b )?
New AFOL here.

I am interested in the differences between the three flavors of 2x2 tile:

3068 Tile 2 x 2 (Undetermined Version)

3068a Tile 2 x 2 without Groove

3068b Tile 2 x 2 with Groove

Could someone explain the differences in these pieces, and perhaps post an image showing the differences?

# Answer
> 7 votes
The difference is actually explained within the naming, which comes from Bricklink, a place where people buy and sell LEGO items around the world. In cases like Bricklink, especially with AFOLs, it is necessary to know which exactly parts you are dealing with.

During the years LEGO has been upgrading parts, where Tile 2 x 2 is not an exception.

Initial version is 3068a, which comes without a groove - its side is same like any other plate - smooth. While it may look great in an assembly it is hard to remove - there is no real gap between a tile and other part it is attached to. There's also no stud on top you could somehow use to take things apart (for example, with brick separator).

So LEGO eventually updated this tile (Bricklink denotes it as 3068b) to include a small groove, which helps with disassembling tile from other bits without much effort.

Bricklink uses "Undetermined version" for cases where seller can list an item without specifying which actual type (with or without a groove) it is.

I don't have any old parts on hand to take a picture, however you can see both tiles used in digital form are different. Green one doesn't have groove and Yellow one has.

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Tags: piece-information, bricklink
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title: Colors common to multiple parts?

text:
# Question
Title: Colors common to multiple parts?
New AFOL here, learning the ropes of BrickLink searches.

Can't see how to do this, yet:

For which specific colors are all of the following parts available?

* 2 x 2 Brick *(Part# 3003)*.
* 1 x 2 Plate *(Part# 3023)*.
* 2 x 2 Tile *(Part# 3068. Either 3068a or 3068b)*.
* 2 x 2 Inverted Tile (*Part# 11203*).

For bonus points (10000 thanks, give or take), is there a simple way to find these specific colors using the query capabilities in BrickLink?

# Answer
> 6 votes
The best way to figure out what colors a set of parts have in common is to use BrickLink’s Stud.io digital design software. I am unable to show screenshots at the moment, but here are the steps:

1. Open Stud.io
2. Place the parts in question on your virtual building workspace (doesnt matter in which color)
3. Select all the parts together, either by:
    * using the mouse to draw a selection square around the parts
    * using the mouse and the CTRL key to select parts one by one
    * using the parts list on the right side of the screen (the Step list) and with CTRL pressed selecting the parts there
4. In the Top of the right sidebar under “Color Palette”, click on the dropdown with the color name in it. This dropdown will show only the colors that the selected parts have in common.

You will have to check the “Hide unavailable colors” checkbox in this dropdown to make it work.

# Answer
> 1 votes
Unfortunately, you need to check available color for each individual part:

3003 3023 3068 11203

From what I can see most of the colors 11203 comes in are available in other parts as well.

Following your edit I can suggest another option for you - Color Guide. Select a color and click on Parts column to find all parts available in particular color.

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Tags: piece-information, colour, bricklink
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# Question
Title: What is the meaning of the available color lists in Bricklink searches?
Recent AFOL; figuring out Bricklink.

I'm trying to understand the color lists that are retrieved by searches in Bricklink.

Using Bricklink, I searched for part 3068a (2x2 tile without Groove), and looking at availability, and so forth.

Four categories of color lists are given in Bricklink:

Lots for Sale

On Wanted list

Price Guide info

Known Colors

The colors displayed in these categories puzzle me. For example, how is it possible for a color to be in the "Lots for Sale" list, and not be in the "Known Colors" list? Other possible discrepancies exist in these lists.

**What do these lists of colors represent?**

Here's a link to the available color lists for part 3068a:

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?id=17085#T=C

For part 3068a, I scraped the data, looking for differences.

Here's a screenshot of part of the results, highlighting a couple of colors that are in lots for sale and are priced, but are not in the known color list:

# Answer
Lots for Sale - this contains colors in which current part is being listed for sale.

On Wanted list - this shows which colors Bricklink members have added to their "wanted list". It doesn't mean parts in this color have existed. Most likely this being used to add non-existing color to list of wanted items and mark for notification. In such case if wanted item ever to appear for sale (and seller pushed this notification) person with desired item would be notified.

Price Guide info - here you can see sale/price history for each color for the past 6 months as well as items currently listed for sale.

Known Colors - here you can find colors which appear in released sets. Bricks in this list are tied to set inventories produced by community of Bricklink. If there ever be an error with inventory or it has alternative selection of bricks, this is being addressed by fixing or adding an alternative inventory for the same set. Every Bricklink member is welcome to make these fixes.

There could be several reasons why there are more colors for sale than on a list of known colors:

* An error is an obvious thing. It is quite easy to make a mistake while listing individual part for sale if it has been produced in similar colors, or has variety in shape (with/without groove). Some shades of Blue and Pink are hard to distinguish. Shape differences aren't always so easy to notice too.
* Some parts you see for sale may have been prototypes, test bricks or produced for specific project (like life-size LEGO Bugatti has a ton of non-existing parts) which may have made their way somehow from the factory. This is not something you could request for as LEGO is trying to not let these items into the market.

One more thing to note. If you find a part in odd color and it isn't listed as HTF (Hard To Find) or Special Color, this is most likely a mistake while listing. Odd parts have quite a high value (depends on availability). Although it doesn't hurt to contact the seller to confirm the case before ordering.
> 5 votes

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Tags: piece-information, colour, bricklink
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title: How to make a church bell

text:
# Question
Title: How to make a church bell
I'm planning a scene that includes a church bell. It's will need to fit into roughly 10X10X6 space. It doesn't need to actually make any sound but the ability to swing a bit would be nice.
Here's the image from the scene

I figure I can use a bar, some clips and some stoplights to make the swinging part. Can anyone recomend some parts for the bell itself?

# Answer
> 4 votes
Look at the bell in the Lego kit for Big Ben (#10253). Building instructions are here (Step 276).

The bell itself is made from several round plates and parabolic reflector dishes. It's not hollow, but it could certainly be made to swing.

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Tags: design
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# Question
Title: Can you identify the parts for this red wizard?
Can anyone identify the hair, head, or the sapphire gem in this photo?

# Answer
* Hair :

Part # 16691pb01

Minifigure, Hair Long with Nougat Headband Pattern

* Head :

Part # 3626cpb0931

Minifigure, Head Dual Sided Black Eyebrows, Cheek Lines, Chin Dimple, Determined / Bared Teeth with Red Eyes Pattern (Superman) - Hollow Stud

* Gem:

Part # 30153

Rock 1 x 1 Jewel 24 Facet in Transred
> 3 votes

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Tags: part-identification, minifigure-identification
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title: What kind of LEGO are these?

text:
# Question
Title: What kind of LEGO are these?
Can somebody tell me what are these round heads and these strange cars? I bought these from a bazaar. The heads are round. There weren't any bodies, just heads. The cars are strange. Looks like from ninja. They look like they won't be LEGO.

# Answer
> 6 votes
These parts were used in large figures as a part of LEGO Knights Kingdom II sets.

"Strange cars" are actually torso/body piece used for these figures.

As an example Large Figure Torso KK with Santis Pattern - Series 1

# Answer
> 1 votes
There are also some Bionicle masks among the parts, e.g.

Bionicle Mask Kakama Nuva and a Bionicle Shoulder Armor

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information
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title: Can anyone ID this set, please?

text:
# Question
Title: Can anyone ID this set, please?
Has typical City plane tail. Has 2 ADU (Earth Defense) minifigs inside. Cannot find online. Thank you for your help!

# Answer
There's a part on the front of the model named Wedge 10 x 3 Right with White Stripes, Yellow Triangle and Gray Lines Pattern (Stickers) - Set 8093

This piece was available in a single set - 8093-1 Plo Koon's Jedi Starfighter:

The model in question is not the same as the set which means it is someone's unique creation (MOC).
> 6 votes

# Answer
I can't make out the "*LEGO*" logo stamp on the studs at the front of the build. Back end top has an asymmetric build flow. Looks non-official. Fan made.
> -1 votes

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Tags: set-identification, moc
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title: Mounting a mosaic modularly

text:
# Question
Title: Mounting a mosaic modularly
I have this LEGO mosaic consisting out of 3 by 3 baseplates (32x32):

As it takes up too much space lying flat, I would like to mount it vertically or near vertically, slightly leaning backwards, like on an easel.

I'm looking for a solution that is modular, i.e. that I can easily take apart in smaller parts so I can put it in luggage for travelling and that is also as easy as possible to reassemble.

Also, I'd prefer a purist lego only solution, avoiding gluing if possible.

Any ideas?

# Answer
I can suggest using a base MILS module (BTM-1 on the picture below), basically an extra layer including some Technic Bricks around the edge for connectivity between modules as well as some plates on top of existing baseplate. Yes, it is going to be bulkier and heavier, but at the same time much more sturdy and easy to assemble and take apart for travelling.

This also has an added benefit of making your surface 3D (BTM-2) if needed.

**UPDATE**

LEGO has now produced their own MILS-like elements used as a base layer for mosaic sets as well - Technic, Brick 16 x 16 x 1 1/3 with Holes (65803)
> 4 votes

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Tags: building, disassembly, mosaic
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# Question
Title: Part differences between main and alternate models of 8285 set
Someone is selling the alternate model of the 8285 set

But I'm really more interested in the main model of that set.

* Does anyone know how many bricks I'm going to be missing when only the bricks from the completed alternate model is included?
* Do you know where can I download an inventory list for the alternate model?

# Answer
> 7 votes
Rebrickable has an option to compare set's main models and some of the B-models as well. However there is no inventory for second model for 8285 set available on Rebrickable. The best I could find is a LDraw file available on Eurobricks.

I've imported this file as a custom list on Rebrickable that could be used to compare with sets and MOCs. Imported file gave me some errors (so final result won't be 100% accurate) and I had to tweak this list a bit as there were wrong color or part type used on a file sourced from Eurobricks.

In the end it gave me a number of 83.% shared parts between both versions. Main model needs the rest 17%, which is roughly 320 parts (92 unique) that are not in B-model (excluding spare parts).

I would like to note this set comes in multiple inventories as it known to be initially released with some parts in Metallic Silver, which later were changed to Light Bluish Gray.

List of parts you would need for main model (not 100% accurate, but very close; may have some minor discrepancies due to issues with source file of alternate model):

# Answer
> 0 votes
I went through the 8285-2/alternate model instruction leaflets and made a list of how many of each part was used for the build.

I only had a (quite bad) PDF from Lego's website, so it might not be 100% correct, but I thought that others might get use of it, so I created it as a custom list on Rebrickable (I'm not yet high enough level to submit it as an official inventory).

Here's a link to the list: https://rebrickable.com/users/Hildesheim/lists/68485/

Here's a link to the comparison to the main 8285 model: https://rebrickable.com/sets/compare/slow/?1-set=8285-1&1-inv=24316&1-user\_list=&2-set=&2-user\_list=68485

(I don't take any responsibility for the list's accuracy -- might be a couple of parts off...)

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Tags: technic, part-database, inventory, alternate-model
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title: Can anyone ID this ship, please?

text:
# Question
Title: Can anyone ID this ship, please?
None of this looks familiar to me, but its incredibly complicated. A LEGO set or fan-made? Thanks

# Answer
~~Not a LEGO set.~~ *Following up on details in comments it appears that Dcbarkley has managed to identify pictured model as a LEGO set thanks to this answer. However, my initial (wrong) assumption was based on dark color of the bricks used in the model. Picking up quite unique piece for cross-checking eventually led to correct set identification. Below you will find original answer:*

Confirmed with Slope, Curved 5 x 8 x 2/3. It appears to be used in Black, however there's no set produced to have these slopes in Black. In case Dark Bluish Gray was used in the model, then still, none of the sets having this slope look like your model.
> 1 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Looking to identify set from a part

text:
# Question
Title: Looking to identify set from a part
Looking to identify set from the following part

# Answer
> 8 votes
That's Support Crane Stand Double and Blue color was used in a single set - Highway Construction (6600)

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Why are there "unique" characters in many sets?
When I was young, about 30 years ago, I'd had no problem to have two policemen, two yellow astronauts or knights. Then I had some lack of Lego sets and didn't know what was happening on this field.

Now, when my son begins (or rather "has begun") his Lego adventure, I realized, that there are theme sets based on movies, stories etc. But there are sets containing the same character.

When he was about 3-4, he was an admirer of Disney/Pixar Cars movie. Lego had a collection, firstly four sets 5813, 5814, 5815 and 5816.

As the Lightning McQueen is in three sets, there is no reason (from my point of view) to repeat Sheriff in 5814 and 5816 sets. So my son has two Sheriffs.

Some years later he changed from Cars to Lego Ninjago. On every occasion (birthday, Christmas, ...) he was receiving Lego Ninjago sets. Now he has eight Zanes, three Coles, three Kais, two Jays.

The same is now, but in smaller scale, in Lego Chima.

As I was looking at the Lego StarWars theme this is even worse. Ok, I can agree to have 8 clone troopers, but for what reasons have three Darth Vaders?

In my opinion this is not a good marketing practice. If for someone the sets are expensive, he would buy one set and (perhaps) a Luke Skywalker minifigure. He can re-think whether to buy a new set with a character he already has.

If each set had a unique minifigure, I would be more likely to buy more sets, just to make a collection.

It's also not ok (for me) to have the same characters for example in Lego Heroica.

I know that sets are larger and smaller, and there are people who buy cheaper ones, and they also should have something interesting, but why then copy the same characters to larger ones?

Does it has some rational explanation?

# Answer
> 15 votes
As a child, I was really into Star Wars and had lots of star wars figures. However, it was always annoying that Star Wars vehicles and playsets didn't come with figures. The Ewok Village has no Ewoks in it. The X-Wing has no pilot. Etc.

This policy let Kenner (now Hasbro) sell the figures at full retail on a per-figure basis and let collectors buy only what they needed, but for me it meant that my figures never matched my vehicles or playsets.

Lego sells products that directly compete with Hasbro's line of Star Wars vehicles and playsets. Lego could take the approach that Hasbro did, and sell the minifigs separately, except that they were forbidden from doing so by the terms of their license agreement. This is why the earliest Star Wars minifig packs were discontinued and replaced with the army builder sets, which had some minimum number of bricks required to make them "building toys" and not "action figures".

But if Lego sold the figures separately, you'd still have the problem of sets that lack play value, because they require additional purchases. Instead of having the X-Wing with R2D2 and Luke Skywalker in pilot outfit, you'd just have the X-Wing. The X-Wing itself would be maybe $3 cheaper but you'd have to spend $6 just to get the figures that go with it (I'm basing these numbers on the prices of the collectible minifigs). Stores would have to stock huge displays of minifgs. Or they'd only stock a few different ones, and you wouldn't be able to find the right fig to go with whatever ship you had.

The other alternative, where hero figs are sold in small sets and supporting figs only in large sets doesn't really help: Often a kid only gets ONE kit at a time.

Having several minifigs already in the package means the set is complete; you can enjoy it without purchasing anything else, and if you lose one of your Darth Vaders, you probably have a spare somewhere. Oh, and siblings don't have to fight over who gets to play with Luke Skywalker.

# Answer
> 23 votes
It seems like you understand why there are unique minifigs, but I'll point it out explicitly anyway. Unique minifigs add character to sets, and add to playability. For example, I always wanted this guy as a kid:

Without him, my pirates were just a leaderless band, but once they have a fearless leader with a peg leg and hook, things become a lot more exciting. As you pointed out, unique figs are also a necessary part of the licensed themes. What would Star Wars be without Darth Vader?

The core of your questions seems to be why these unique figs end up in so many sets such that you have duplicates and triplicates of them. I'm sure this isn't TLG's goal, but there are some marketing reasons which cause it to happen.

First, TLG ideally wants each set to be a whole product. This generally means that the sets should be able to stand on their own, and upon seeing a set, a customer would actually want to buy it. Keep in mind that your rationality as a parent isn't always the same as others who may be buying Lego for your child, or children themselves. Here's an example of set to help me explain what I mean:

That's Gandalf Arrives (set 9469). As you can see, it is a pretty small set with Gandalf and Frodo. These are both core characters, and they each appear in several sets, but this set wouldn't be able to stand on its own without them. While this set may have less appeal to you or your child because you might already have these minifigs, the set has greater appeal to children who don't already have these minifigs. It also has greater appeal to your sister-in-law who needs to pick up a Lego set for your child's birthday party. She won't know what minifigs your child has already, and she's just looking for a nice reasonably cheap set with good playability.

Second, TLG uses unique minifigs to create desire to collect the whole product line. While there is duplication among the major characters, if you want to have all of the minor characters available, you pretty much have to buy every major set in the theme. This makes a lot of sense from a marketing point of view. For example, if you already own Helm's Deep (9474), does a small add-on really have much appeal to you? Uruk-Hai Army (9471) is a small set which attaches to the side of Helm's Deep:

This set may not have much appeal. It's just a basic castle wall with some men fighting some bad guys. However, this is the only set which contains the guy (Eomer) who brings in the cavalry and ultimately makes the battle a victorious one. This adds to this otherwise somewhat boring set, and makes it more appealing to consumers.

As an aside, many Lego fans want to get a complete set of minifigs, but can't afford all the sets, so your extra Vader's have good resale value on sites like Bricklink where they sell for about $10 used.

# Answer
> 7 votes
Also if you have multiple children having multiples of the main people (Darth Vader, Han Solo, etc) is a good thing to help keep the peace.

# Answer
> 5 votes
In my opinion, this is a marketing ploy, especially in licensed themes, to make people want to buy all the sets. This is especially true in the Superheroes theme where the iconic superhero minifigures are often the selling point of a set. Look at The Hobbit line for example. To be able to obtain a complete company of dwarves, one needs to buy all the sets of the wave, save for an exception: The small "Riddles of the Rings" set. Throughout the whole wave, Bilbo Baggins is included thrice, and buying all the sets except the aforementioned examples would net you with 2 Bilbos, despite being different variants. Here comes the Riddles of the Rings set. It is the smallest set of the wave, and contains two, fairly desirable characters, Gollum and Bilbo, despite not being exclusive. Keep in mind that one of the sets containing Bilbo is very large, and the other is a limited edition set. By buying this smallest set, kids would already be satisfied to be able to obtain Bilbo.

As other people mentioned in the above, it needs to be a complete set. You can't have an X-Wing set without Luke Skywalker just because he also star in a Snowspeeder set that was only released a year ago. He is pivotal to that scene, and so he needs to be there.

Remember that LEGO is still a company trying to make profit, and it is far more profitable to include the characters in multiple sets so everybody can have him, as opposed to a highly desirable character only included in one colossal set.

Although I have to agree The Lone Ranger is pushing it a bit too far :)

# Answer
> 2 votes
Expanding from some of my comments:

Another interesting use of "duplicate" unique characters is as generic characters in builds from other themes.

For example:

* Indiana Jones can become a new sidekick for Han Solo (just give him a blaster), a new raptor trainer trainee, or a generic cowboy, park ranger, or other type of outdoorsman.
* Emmet from *The Lego Movie* is a construction worker, so you can add him to a CITY construction site as an extra worker. With his high-visibility vest, he can also serve as a transportation worker on a railroad build or a rescue worker.
* Gandalf can be a new wizarding instructor at Hogwarts, a wizened Jedi Master, or even a generic scholar or educator figure (new teacher in town, and he's a little odd!).
* Dumbledore fell into some sort of time-space anomaly and now finds himself at the battle of Helm's Deep.
* Palpatine can be a Death Eater.
* Elsa has always wanted to be a Jedi.
* C3PO can be a new Stark invention.
* The Elves of *Lego Elves* are now raising Baby Yodas.
* The Elves of *Lego Elves* can be a band of Elven warriors on a Lord of the Rings layout.
* The characters from Legends of Chima are now a new Star Wars faction.

You can even build versatile teams:

* Obi-Wan Kenobi, Palpatine, Gandalf, Dumbledore, and Majisto (from classic Castle) are your wizards - pick any of them when you need another stock spellcaster for some purpose.
* Iron Man, War Machine, Black Panther, Darth Vader, Boba Fett, and The Mandalorian are a new band of pirates attacking a Classic Space settlement. Time to call Batman to help reinforce defenses at the Monorail! Don't forget to recruit a few Clone Troopers as mercenaries!

You can also think generally about themes that can work well together:

* Space-farers: Star Wars, unlicensed Space, and space-themed City builds work well together. The CITY Lunar Space Station is now in orbit around Corellia, and its astronauts are now CorSec agents.
* Fairy-tale world of magic: Harry Potter, Lord of the Rings, classic Castle, Disney Princess, and some Ninjago elements go together to make your own fairy tale.

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Tags: sets, minifigures, lego-group
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title: Capes and Hoods

text:
# Question
Title: Capes and Hoods
Is it possible to fit both a cape and a hood on a single minifigure?

# Answer
This minifigure utilize both of your items:
> 4 votes

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Tags: minifigures, accessories
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title: Flame Emblem and Cape

text:
# Question
Title: Flame Emblem and Cape
I'd like to build a minifig with this flame emblem on the chest. Typically, this is done with an armor piece such as this. However, I also want to give the figure a cape, and I'm not sure if that will fit with the armor. Is there an alternative way to put a 1x1 round tile on the chest of a minifigure? Has anyone had experience doing something like this?

# Answer
> 5 votes
Have you considered putting that tile on a Minifigure, Neck Bracket with Back Stud - Thin Back Wall? Normally this is used to put something on a minifig's back, but it could also work on the chest.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Some minifigures have a combination with a cape you are looking for.

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Tags: minifigures, design
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title: Rifle across the back

text:
# Question
Title: Rifle across the back
I'd like to build a hunter minifig with a rifle slung diagonally across his back.

I thought about using the dual katanas armor but it looks like it would only fit a flat blade, right?

Does anyone have any ideas?

Also, what would be a good torso for an outdoors/forest/hunter type?

# Answer
> 8 votes
You could use

Minifigure, Neck Bracket with Back Stud

28974 thick / 42446thin

With Tile, Modified 1 x 1 with Clip

15712 / 2555

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Tags: minifigures
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title: Which set does this part belong to?

text:
# Question
Title: Which set does this part belong to?
Which set does this part belong to? Thanks very much!

# Answer
Here are all the possible sets: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=30382&in=S

To me, that piece looks dark blueish gray, which would suggest either set 4209 or set 8095.
> 2 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: What is the rarest LEGO production element (colour/shape combination)?
What is the rarest LEGO element according to the following criteria:

# Answer
I would tend to say that any part produced for only one set would qualify, especially if said set is priced high. Looking at the inventory of 10179 Millenium Falcon UCS for example, the following candidates come to mind:

Considering the price the set goes for nowadays, and the fact that most people who buy it will probably build it once and leave it so (that is, if they open the box at all), I think the grey boat mast rigging is a very good candidate. There are four people selling some on BrickLink as of february 2013, but a glance at the prices asked comforts me in my reasoning. Even the printed radar dish is cheaper.
> 13 votes

# Answer
I'm not sure whether to consider these real Lego parts or not, but many of the old HO scale vehicles and greenery are incredibly rare. For example, the Jaguar is quite rare in any color, but especially in red and black.
> 10 votes

# Answer
**712pb01 Plate, Round Curved 4 x 8 Left with Red Line on Curved Edge Pattern**

To be honest, I don't know if this is especially rare. I do know, however, that to find the rarest part we'll need to factor in:

**1. Parts that appear in small numbers in very few sets**

For example:

* "White Minifig, Headgear Hair Female Pigtails" piece only appeared in a few sets.
* The parts unique to the 10179 Millennium Falcon UCS.

Often, rare parts have an unusual design or colour.

**2. Of those, sets that had a limited production run**

Sets with a limited run might include:

* Promotional sets (although these rarely have unique parts)
* Sets that are limited to a single locality

The Millennium Falcon might be a candidate here.

**3. Of those, parts that are unlikely to have survived the ravages of time**

This might include:

* Old sets - anything from the 1950s, for example
* Sets designed for community play, e.g. Educational establishments

All things considered, I imagine that the rarest piece of proper LEGO is from one of the oldest sets: which is why I suggest something like, "712pb01 Plate, Round Curved 4 x 8 Left with Red Line on Curved Edge Pattern" that appeared in a single set in 1958.

Alternatively, (if you care to count them as part of the system) many of the parts from the 1940s Automatic Binding Bricks era will be quite rare by now.
> 8 votes

# Answer
I was just reading about the 8485 Technic Control Center II, where you can make a dinosaur, helicopter, or hovercraft controlled by a big panel, and which I have on hand. According to a reviewer (http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=75864) there are a few rare pieces that were included with this set, which retailed for $219 in 1995. The price of the set and quickly-outdated electronics probably could imply that the set is relatively rare. Some of the parts are pictured here - http://www.flickr.com/photos/mostlytechnic/8158411568/ Red wing plates (x2 Left, x2 Right) that were used in the helicopter build, and one other set. Little white coils for bundling wires together, only used in an earlier Multi Control set and educational sets (probably quickly lost). And a black steering yoke used in the dinosaur build - only ever included in this set. It was released in white in a 1980s car set.

This might be one of the rarest individual parts that's not from a promotional or movie-themed set.
> 5 votes

# Answer
Based on the conversation in this thread, the 2x4 brick in trans-neon-green is also quite rare. Last selling price on Bricklink was from Oct 2014 and was set to $75.
> 1 votes

# Answer
Perhaps the Chrome Green Rock 1 x 1 Crystal 5 Point?

It is the only chrome green part.
> 1 votes

# Answer
How about a surprisingly rare part: the Lime Green 1x1 plate. Only produced in one set in 2005.

Edit: Re-issued in 2014,so for 9 years, it was rare.
> 1 votes

# Answer
It's impossible to provide an accurate answer without accurate information to base it off of. Without knowing production quantities on every set, it is impossible to know if there's a part that only comes one per copy of a set that sold 10 million units, or if there's another part that only comes ten copies of a set that sold 10,000 units. Age of sets can also affect the answer because parts that have not been made in decades will exist in much smaller numbers now than when they were brand-new, due to all the various ways that a LEGO part could be destroyed over the years. Some sets have been recalled and changed, which may have allowed a small number of a rare element to make it out into the wild, after which the supply was cut off. And some elements have been retired almost immediately after they were first put into production. Assuming stuff like SDCC minifigs are excluded (not meant to be sold), I have to put my vote on 8-spoked wheel #51377. In 2005, they first introduced this wheel in metallic-silver for a Designer set and a Tiny Turbos set. In 2006, they produced it in pearl-gold for the first Batmobile and the Catwoman/Dragster set. Before those two Batman sets went out of production, they had introduced the reversible wheel #55981 with six spokes on one side and bolts on the other. In the two Batman sets, they replaced the 8-spoke wheel with the new reversible one, which means they made the 8-spoke wheel in pearl-gold for only a few months before the mold was permanently retired. I bought one copy of each Batman set at release, and a second copy soon after, and only got the 8-spoke wheel in the first copies I bought. And that's too bad, because it's a really cool looking wheel.
> 1 votes

# Answer
Antannae piece from the 70s. The ones nowadays are almost all broken, so these are rare. Also Chrome Gold 2x2
> 0 votes

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Tags: piece-information
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# Question
Title: Do Thomas the Tank Engine Duplo trains seat figures?
Lego made Thomas the Tank Engine licensed Duplo sets in the 2000's decade at the same scale as current Duplo trains. Do the Thomas trains seat Duplo figures like current trains do? I've seen some pictures of disassembled Thomas trains (e.g. in this video) that seem to indicate that there is space under the roof of the train, but all of the Thomas trains seem to have opaque windows, possibly implying that adding figures was not a priority.

# Answer
The train bodies do indeed consist of a stack of 4x4 "blocks" that were fully enclosed when assembled - and as I recall, we could fit a seated Duplo character within most of the cab sections.

Toby and the coaches had the most room, but most engines just about had room.
> 4 votes

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Tags: trains, duplo
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title: Transparent Technic elements

text:
# Question
Title: Transparent Technic elements
I know these Technic liftarms come in clear transparent:

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32278#T=S&C=12

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32009#T=S&C=12

These liftarms come in a couple of transparent colors (not clear transparent):

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32348#T=S&C=15

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32449#T=S&C=15

Also this connector comes in transparent

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32016#T=S&C=12

And these connectors come in transparent red

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=6538b#T=S&C=17

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32013#T=S&C=17

Are there any other liftarms, connectors or Technic elements in general that come in transparent colors?

# Answer
There are far more parts within Technic category in Transparent colors and just too many parts to list them all. I suggest checking Color Guide on BrickLink, Transparent Colors section and pick first column (named Parts) Most of the colors have Technic bits in colors you are interested in.

For example, just Trans-Clear color has 23 items under various Technic categories.
> 1 votes

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Tags: piece-information, technic, colour
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# Question
Title: What went in the orange cylinders from Mars Mission?
While sifting a bin of LEGO's that I received as a gift I found this strange orange cylinder:

I was able to determine that it was part 58947pb01, the "Cylinder 9 x 4 x 2 Tapered with Flat Bottom, Pin Holes with 'HIGH RISK AREA' and Captured Alien Pattern (Sticker)". It turns out to be from the Mars Mission theme, and appeared in six sets in 2007-2007. I'm guessing this one came from 7694-1: MT-31 Trike:

As you can see the tube forms the spine of the trike and it has something in it. Despite consulting the instructions and watching weird youtubes that turn out to be unrelated I still have no definitive idea what the things in the tube are.

Do you know how you were supposed to play with this? What went into the orange tube?

# Answer
I'd assume from the partslist this guy is in the tube:

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?M=mm001
> 5 votes

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Tags: piece-information, theme, space
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# Question
Title: What is the design number of this brick?
Attached is a picture of one of the bricks from the Dinosaur Set 31058. It is however not listed in the content list on lego.com, so I have not been able to find a replacement.

# Answer
> 6 votes
That's 98613c01 - Hero Factory Arm / Leg Extender with Ball Joint and Ball Socket on BrickLink.

LEGO call this item Ball Cup High Friction W. Rubber and use 74261 (design ID) and 6106472 (Element number) for latest sets.

LEGO doesn't always have full list of parts within a set as this depends on parts availability (maybe some other reasons too). You would get much better set inventory on BrickLink. Check your set - 31058 on BrickLink, where you can find the part you are looking to identify.

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Tags: part-identification, creator
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title: Improving EV3 Screen Readability

text:
# Question
Title: Improving EV3 Screen Readability
I often have a hard time reading the EV3’s LCD display. I presume that I’m not the only one who has experienced this issue. Is there a way to improve its readability?

For example, are there any good magnifiers that fit, or any ways to add backlighting or mirror the displays to a larger screen?

# Answer
> 2 votes
One guy found a way to make the EV3 Brick's screen have light on it like it is on any device, but if you think training for soldering and blowing $30 just to see your EV3's screen is not worth it, you might as well use a lamp.

Here's the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPNJC5Uz9HY&t=0s

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Tags: ev3
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# Question
Title: What is this? Is it LEGO? Dark Green, detailed mouldings, roughly trapezoid shaped
I've been sifting through a few gifted bins of LEGO with a small percentage of trash and stuff. I've had pretty good luck with finding new and strange LEGO pieces on bricklink, but this one has me stumped.

I don't see LEGO printed anywhere on it. Another discouraging factor is on the bottom where I see numbers that would suggest it is not LEGO:

But it fits Technic pins perfectly so maybe it is something LEGO that I've never seen before:

So have I been lured in by some clone part or is this a real LEGO thing?

# Answer
That's LEGO piece - 47299 - Bionicle Toa Metru Knee Cover. You can see © sign in LEGO font as well as "47299" part number on the bottom, both of which confirm this is legit item.
> 29 votes

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Tags: part-identification, bionicle
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title: Unsure what set this is

text:
# Question
Title: Unsure what set this is
I have a LEGO set without box or instructions. Some information about it is that it has a brick that’s kind of odd. It’s clear but at the bottom it isn’t and it has some type of metal in it the bag should all over say 135149. And I’m pretty sure it is not the Star Wars set. As I remember the box faintly.

# Answer
This is:

31051-1: Lighthouse Point

based on the 1 x3 brick in Medium Blue and the Red Plate, Modified 1 x 4 with 2 Studs without Groove

The "odd' brick is Dark Bluish Gray Electric, Light Brick 2 x 3 x 1 1/3 with Trans-Clear Top and Yellow LED Light (Glows Orange)
> 6 votes

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Tags: set-identification, sets
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title: Fiery hair/head

text:
# Question
Title: Fiery hair/head
I thought I saw a head with flames on it. (Maybe it was a hair piece?). I looked for 'flame' and 'fire' on BrickLink but couldn't find it.

Here's a custom minifigure that may be using the hair piece I'm looking for.

# Answer
I could find a few pieces with flames on BrickLink:

Minifigure, Headgear Head Cover, Flame Head Piece

Minifigure, Head Modified Alien with Trans Orange Flaming Hair and Reddish Brown Face, Yellow Eyes and Headband Pattern

Minifigure, Head Modified Alien with Trans Orange Flaming Hair and Skull with Yellow Eyes Pattern

Minifigure, Head Modified Alien with Trans-Orange Flaming Hair and Pumpkin Jack O' Lantern Pattern

Your picture seem to be showing a non-LEGO piece, which is similar to Minifigure, Hair Spiked Top, Plain. Also a comment on Flickr for this picture suggest: "It appears to be a trans-red knockoff piece with the goggles painted on"
> 4 votes

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Tags: minifigures, clone-brands, minifigure-identification
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title: How to remove printed decoration

text:
# Question
Title: How to remove printed decoration
This is probably heresy, but how can I remove the printed decoration on a brick? I managed to buy a large number of bricks with an eye decoration cheap and found that rubbing a long time with isopropanol removed the decoration but also scratched the surface. Is there a readily-available solvent that can dissolve decorations without needing rubbing, or otherwise damaging the brick?

# Answer
> 16 votes
Brasso (yes, the metal polish) works wonders as far as removing print. Yes, you still have to rub it, but it won't damage or scratch the surface and it works fast. Just use a soft cloth, pour some Brasso on it and wipe away the print.

Also, pure Eucalyptus Oil works really well. It requires a bit of soaking, but it will remove the print wonderfully and it smells good to - unlike Brasso. Saturate a piece of cotton in Eucalyptus Oil, place it on the printed surface, let it sit for a few minutes, then wipe away the print. It may require a bit of rubbing too, but usually not much.

Hope this helps!...(c;

# Answer
> 3 votes
I tried Eucalyptus Oil a found on some figures it worked very slowly and took a lot of rubbing, while on other figures it worked on very quickly. I don't know what the difference in the figures paint/decal is or could be.

I did find that Ethyl Alcohol (not Isopropyl, have not tested yet) worked fairly quickly with aggressive rubbing with a q-tip swab.

I also notice in some cases there was a slight "ghost" impression left behind. Likely the new decal or paint would cover that though.

# Answer
> 3 votes
I got good results using Soft Scrub with Bleach, an old towel, a Scotch-Brite scrubber sponge (the green and yellow one), a bottle brush, and a pile of Q-tips.

Put a dollop of Soft Scrub on an old towel, dip the Lego piece in the cleanser, and rub 30-60 seconds on the scrubber side of the sponge. Check for results and keep rubbing until decoration is gone. Rinse well.

If there is a lot of residue buildup inside the piece or stubborn paint after rubbing, use the bottle brush and Q-tips for cleanup and detail work.

I had 60 pieces from which to remove the paint. The above method took me 1-2 minutes per piece vs. Brasso, which took about 5-6 minutes per piece.

Hand cramps are the mother of invention, I guess?

# Answer
> 2 votes
I used tea tree oil, it worked but tended to leve a ghost and if removed that would impair the plastics ability to reflect sunlight.

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Tags: cleaning, customization
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# Question
Title: Can anyone identify this wheel-like part from the Kazi 10005 80cm WW2 German Railway Gun "Dora"?
Pictures below show a part from the Kazi 10005 80cm WW2 German Railway Gun "Dora".

I've been looking on Bricklink for this part, but I can't seem to find it.

Does anyone know if this actually exists in LEGO? And if so, what's the part number?

# Answer
> 2 votes
I know of similarly looking LEGO piece - Minifigure, Utensil Barbell Weight.

# Answer
> 1 votes
Kazi bricks are not manufactured by Lego. They're a separate brand of "compatible" bricks manufactured in China and, as such, won't appear on Bricklink since that site is reserved exclusively for the sale of official LEGO blocks.

> *"The Site acts as an online platform for sellers to sell LEGO® items and designs for a model or creation using bricks"*

You can find the full Kazi set available online here. I haven't seen any sites that sell Kazi bricks individually, but AliExpress host their '*official online store*'. I'm reasonably certain if you contact Ali with an enquiry about replacing a specific (missing?) brick, they can pass it along to Kazi and get it sent out to you, especially if you stress that you're a loyal customer of their brand.

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: What is a "MOD" and how does it differ from a "MOC"?
In this imgur post, one of the images is captioned "MODs and MOCs - Ocean Beach, Kingsman Tailor shop, Sanctum Santorum."

If a "MOC" is a "My Own Creation," what is (the most commonly used definition of) a "MOD"?

This thread on Eurobrick suggests that "MOD" could stand for "My Own Design" (which might or might not be different from "MOC"), or could just be a relatively minor "MODification" of an existing set.

I didn't see a consensus over there, and I don't see the question raised on StackExchange yet, so I thought I'd ask StackExchange. **What's a MOD?** And when would you use that term instead of "MOC"?

# Answer
It's MODification, "My Own Design" is silly. Also used quite extensively outside of the LEGO community, e.g. in gaming a MOD is altered game code you execute, either to cheat or to change graphics for fun.

So an existing set where you altered things to is a MOD.

A MOC is created from scratch.
> 10 votes

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Tags: moc, terminology, afol, set-modification
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# Question
Title: Please help me identify the set these LEGO parts are from
They could definitely be from two separate sets. Any help would be appreciated!

# Answer
> 12 votes
That's an easy one:

It's part of the Modular Buildings series in the LEGO Creator Expert line. It's a series intended for the advanced builder, consisting of detailed buildings that click together to form a street.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Bugatti Chiron - loose connection to wheels
I’m currently building this set and I notice that the connection to the front wheels often falls out. This is the small red line between the wheel and ball joint.

It depends on the angle. It is almost certain to come apart of you pull the wheel away from the body.

Is this resolved and held in place later in the build, or have I missed something? \[!\[enter image description here\]\[2\]\]\[2\]

\[2\]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GmFXM.jpg

# Answer
I see a gap between the grey part and the black part. They should be flush picture 1. Normally it take some force to assemble these hub parts.

If you look to the back side of the "back" side you must see the clip of the grey as picture 2.

The grey part must rotate freely so if you apply some force to if and have it slow down if its own it must continue to rotate for some seconds until it stops
> 6 votes

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Tags: technic, instructions, vehicle
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# Question
Title: Does a 1x3 Lego technic liftarm with two round holes and one axle socket exist? (for tank suspension usage)
I have been searching for some time for parts like these (with no success):

But with two holes (instead of three) and one socket for Lego axles at one side.

Likewise two holes (instead of one) and one socket for Lego axles at one side. So does any of the above parts exist?

What I am trying to do is to make the roadwheels of the suspension more sensitive to movement. Now the Lego sword blade goes through the axle hole of the 3l liftarm, but that creates a lot of friction and the roadwheels won't spin with the tracks. If the brick I was searching for existed, I would attach the roadwheels to a Lego axle which would go through the round hole of the liftarm generating minimal resistance. But anyways...

Do you guys have any better ideas?

# Answer
I can't see a lift arm with two round holes and one axle hole on the same plane, but there is one where the holes are perpendicular

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=42003

If you have the space you could try joining a standard 3L arm to one of these

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=60483

*Updated suggestion* Now that I see what you're trying to do, have you considered one of these

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32449

It's 4L but the extra axle hole would be concealed by the wheel, and the wheel would have it's axle through a pin hole and spin freely.
> 7 votes

# Answer
Not sure if you’re still working on this build but easy answer,

If it needs to be able to not pull apart and if height doesn’t matter above the wheel this is also an option.

!

This is the skinniest version that I’ve posted you can reinforce it so it’s more securely anchored to the axles rotation by making it thicker like this,
> 0 votes

# Answer
You could modify the 4L. By chopping off the fourth /end-slot you should now have the right amount of plastic in the right places.
> -1 votes

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Tags: technic, building
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# Question
Title: Realistic Lego car sets containing gearboxes and engines?
Lego Technic 853/956 Auto Chassis contains a car chassis, complete with a transmission gearbox. Other sets like Lego Technic 858/8858 Auto Engines contain parts to build working models of real-life Inline engines, V6 engines, Boxer engines, and 2-cycle engines.

Most Lego cars are unrealistic as they only have wheels and axles. I am looking for sets that contain a chassis, a transmission gearbox, and an engine. In other words, I am looking for Lego sets that model real cars. Are there any such sets in the 21st century?

# Answer
**LEGO sets**

There are more than one set with such characteristics. While first four are from 20th century, I've included them anyway, since they are well-known and include characteristics you are interested in.

Let's begin with 8860 - Car Chassis from 1980. This model has steering, 4-cylinder engine, 3-speed transmission, adjustable seats, rear suspension, differential:

The second one is 8865 - Test Car with steering, V4 engine, 3-speed transmission, adjustable seats, 4 wheel suspension, differential, retractable headlights:

Next is 8880 - Super Car from 1994 with 4-wheel steering, V8 engine, 4-speed synchronized transmission, 4 wheel independent suspension, 3 differentials, all-wheel drive:

Then 8448 - Super Street Sensation from 1999 with steering, V8 engine, 5-speed synchronized transmission with reverse, suspension, differential:

Now moving forward to the 21st century.

8466 - 4 X 4 Off-Roader is the first set from 2001 with steering, V8 engine, 5-speed synchronized transmission with reverse, suspension, 4 wheel drive:

42056 - Porsche 911 GT3 RS from 2016 has steering, rear flat 6 engine, rear-wheel drive, 4-speed synchronized with reverse and paddle shifting, suspension:

42048 - Race Kart from 2016 is another, while small model, but still has 1 cylinder engine and 2-speed gearbox:

42083 - Bugatti Chiron from 2018 comes with steering, rear W16 engine, 8-speed gearbox with paddle shifting, suspension:

42110 - Land Rover Defender from 2019 with steering, in-line 6 engine, 4-speed sequential gearbox, suspension:

42115 - Lamborghini Sián FKP 37 from 2020. It has steering, W12 engine, 8-speed sequential transmission with paddle shifting, suspension:

And the latest addition - 42143 - Ferrari Daytona SP3 from 2022. It has steering, V8 engine, 8-speed sequential transmission with paddle shifting, suspension:

**LEGO MOCs**

In case you are not limiting yourself to LEGO sets there is another option - MOCs produced by AFOLs. You can find them mostly on Rebrickable. There are a lot of creations based on real-life vehicles with functions sometime (quite often for larger models) exceeding those you can find in LEGO sets. Not all of them are as sturdy as LEGO models, but that is a personal preference. Although all of them come with free/paid instructions. Here is an example of MOCs in Technic theme.

---

Features for sets from early days up to and including 8466 are sourced from Technicopedia. Here you can find animations and more details for each of those sets. Newer sets, sadly, have not been reviewed on Technicopedia.
> 26 votes

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Tags: technic, sets, vehicle
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title: What set is the head in this MOC from?

text:
# Question
Title: What set is the head in this MOC from?
This MOC uses some kind of armour for the head and possibly the thighs. I thought it was Hero Factory but I couldn’t find it on Bricklink.

I would greatly appreciate any help in identifying it!

# Answer
> 1 votes
It looks like Hero Factory Weapon Accessory - Machinery Armor is the part you are looking for.

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Tags: part-identification, moc, bionicle, hero-factory
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title: Do you know what set these go to?

text:
# Question
Title: Do you know what set these go to?
These are more dark grey than green. Maybe from a jet or alligator or crocodile? !

# Answer
Wedge 6 x 2 Right with Reptile Skin, Red Eye, White Teeth Pattern

Wedge 6 x 2 Left with Reptile Skin, Red Eye, White Teeth Pattern

These two wedges appear in The Batboat: Hunt for Killer Croc

Wedge 4 x 4 Triple with Stud Notches with Exo-Force Circuitry Pattern (Sticker) - Set 7705

As name suggest this piece comes in 7705 - Gate Assault

Wedge 4 x 4 No Top Studs with Two Red Arrows on Dark Bluish Gray Background Pattern (Sticker) - Set 7256 in your picture has incorrectly applied sticker.

Again, set is described in the name - 7256 - Jedi Starfighter & Vulture Droid

The last item depends on the color, it is either Windscreen 10 x 6 x 3 Bubble Canopy Double Tapered with **Light Bluish Gray** Jedi Starfighter Pattern and is part of single set.

or Windscreen 10 x 6 x 3 Bubble Canopy Double Tapered with **Dark Bluish Gray** Jedi Starfighter Pattern which appear in 3 sets.

Since you got a wedge piece from 7256 it is highly likely the canopy is from the same set.
> 2 votes

# Answer
Those parts are from different sets. The wedges at the top left have only appeared in The Batboat: Hunt for Killer Croc

That set does not contain the other parts in your picture.
> 0 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Actuator availability?

text:
# Question
Title: Actuator availability?
Is it true that there is no way to purchase any sort of Technic/PF/PU linear actuator directly from Lego at this time? The current giant Liebherr excavator seems to include #40918, a part which was only introduced last year, but they can't be bought individually on the store, Pick-a-Brick or the Education site. Is this true, or am I missing something?

I know that they are available on eBay and other secondary market sites, but it seems odd that they cannot be bought directly.

# Answer
Short answer: Yes.

Long answer:

Technically linear actuators are not part of PF/PU system, so they are treated as generic part. S@H don't sell individual parts apart from PF/PU elements. Pick-a-Brick (PAB) has very limited part selection and linear actuators are never available there as well. I also haven't seen LEGO Education selling any actuators, only PF/PU elements. This brings us to the only possible place - Bricks'n'Pieces (B'n'P). Here you can usually buy most of individual parts from recently produced sets. However some parts are never listed for sale. These are either absent or have a note suggesting that piece cannot be bought this way (for example, PF/PU items). I remember linear actuators being in this grey area so I cannot tell if actuator you are interested in (even though I'm interested in new Technic elements I didn't pay much attention to this piece) was available for sale at any point. Missing/broken parts option, which is similar to B'n'P, on LEGO Service webpage actually has Large Actuator on the list and can be requested if your is broken or missing, obviously. So it may be possible that this item could be purchased on B'n'P after all. However this cannot be confirmed by the time of this answer as Bricks'n'Pieces is unavailable due to COVID-19.

If you really need the piece - you already found it on secondary market. There is nothing really against using it as prices are often lower than LEGO B'n'P offers. Shipping is also quicker than LEGO could offer.
> 4 votes

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Tags: piece-information, shopping
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# Question
Title: Please help me identity this part (Duplo size)
I got a lot of pre-owned blocks and there's a part I couldn't figure what it is for. There is no part number printed on it; I guess it is not produced by LEGO, probably just some clone brands instead. It is Here are the pictures:

.

It is compatible with my other Duplo blocks and I'm curious what can I build with it. Thanks.

# Answer
Thanks everyone for joining the discussion and trying to help. It turns out that the part to be identified is designed to be used as the handle for gears.
> 2 votes

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands, duplo
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# Question
Title: LEGO Powered Up substitution for Power Functions Motor Set 8293
We have a Volvo EW160E, for which the product description says

> Upgrade with the 8293 LEGO Power Functions motor set (not supplied) for a fully motorised boom and working lights.

Well, looks like Power Functions is discontinued (and no longer in stock), apparently replaced by Powered UP. What would be the best Powered UP equivalent of the 8293 set?

# Answer
As with old sets and systems (Power Functions (PF) in this case) are being retired supplementary sets become discontinued as well. There are couple of ways you could handle this situation.

**Power Functions**

In case you have a set which suggest using 8293 set for motorisation it is advised to source that particular set or elements of that set. While LEGO no longer sell 8293 set directly it is still possible to acquire this as set as New or Used on secondary market, like BrickLink, BrickOwl, Ebay, etc.

Depending on your LEGO collection you may already have some of the individual parts included in 8293 set since they are not unique and have been available in other sets too. Here you can to buy just the parts you need.

**Powered UP**

LEGO has decided to discontinue PF system to make a way for newer one called Powered UP. Sadly, at this point of time new system doesn't have have a similar supplemental set to motorise sets. This means required parts need to be sourced individually.

Another issue with PU system - it is not 1:1 copy of old system in terms of element dimensions and properties. But let's review contents of 8293 set and see what PU system could offer.

8293 set contains 4 items of PF system (below) used to bring models alive. I'm going to dismiss non-PF items as these would need to be acquired individually anyway if PU parts are going to be used.

* Battery Box. PF system use standalone battery box, where power to motors is applied directly by using switch on a box itself compared to 88009 PU Hub (LEGO, Bricklink) (which is both Battery Box and Receiver) which will only provide power once signaled from 88010 Controller (LEGO, Bricklink) or smart device via Bluetooth. Next thing is the different form-factor - PU Hub comes in different shape and size (similar to PF small Battery Box), which means it may not fit the originally intended place within a model designed for 8293 set.
* M-motor. Luckily, new 45303 M-Motor (LEGO, Bricklink) is very similar to previously used PF M-motor. Not the same, but most won't be an issue.
* Pole Reverser / Polarity Switch. This item does not exist as PU element.
* Lights. Similarly to PF Lights, newer 88005 PU Lights (LEGO, Bricklink) should work fine.

As seen above, newer elements have quite a different properties and may not fit sets originally designed for 8293 motorisation without substantial modifications or currently offer nothing as a replacement (like a Pole Reverser / Polarity Switch).

It is also worth mentioning that PU system has new connector, so none of the previously released motors/electric components incorporated into new system.
> 6 votes

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Tags: power-functions, powered-up
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title: Help me identify this Batman set

text:
# Question
Title: Help me identify this Batman set
I've tried to look up what I thought were specific bricks without luck, so please help me. I know it's a Batman set, but not much more. The red shield is #17979, its red transparent. There is a hook behind with #24144 and a "bat-rang" #26-01

# Answer
> 6 votes
I did new research on Rebrickable and found out it is **#76086 - Knightcrawler Tunnel Attack**

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: What are the part numbers for these book-like items?
post of LEGO-like books from Aliexpress

# Answer
Your post links to a clone brand

The original LEGO parts are

Part # 24324 : Minifigure, Utensil Book Binding with 2 Studs in Pearl Gold

and the Book Covers from Nexo Knights
> 2 votes

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: How is the neck of the green velociraptor 10757 connected?
I found a green velociraptor in a box on the curb, presumably from the "rescue truck" 10757 box. The head is detached from the body and there is no obvious way to attach it.

I found a light sabre handle that fits as a "neck", as would a basic round pin (on one end).

I can't find what the proper connector is. From official images of the box it looks like it must be a type of stick that is virtually invisible.

I'd appreciate any suggestions to connect the head correcttly.

PS. I may not know the right terminology I don't claim to be a lego expert by any stretch.

# Answer
Looking at inventory for Velociraptor, included in 10757 set you've mentioned, there is a Technic Pin. Since all of the limbs have half of the pin molded into the parts this leaves us with Technic Pin that is used to connect body with a head piece.

Better pictured by this step from LEGO building instruction (thanks Syberion for the tip):
> 8 votes

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information
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# Question
Title: Where to use the dark gray 1x4 flat pieces in Lego Hidden Side Ghost Train Express 70424
I got two out of three pieces left of these after finished the building and I am now asking where they are supposed to be?

The instructions can be viewed here if anyone cares to help and search. https://lego.brickinstructions.com/en/lego\_instructions/set/70424/Ghost\_Train\_Express

# Answer
Step 115 needs all three 1 x 4 Plates in Dark Bluish Gray \[BL\]/Dark Stone Grey \[TLG\].

You've probably skipped sub-step 7 of step 115, where both parts need to be added:
> 3 votes

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Tags: sets, instructions
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# Question
Title: Arranging claws radially and horizontally
I would like to arrange 3 claws in a horizontal circle (parallel to the ground ), pointing outward from the circle with roughly equal radial distance (120 degrees) between them. Any ideas on how I can do that?

# Answer
> 6 votes
Your claws will fit in this Technic element:

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=10288

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Tags: design
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title: Lego RCX 1.0 problem with communication

text:
# Question
Title: Lego RCX 1.0 problem with communication
I have a problem with communication between the tower (it's installed and it's working - green light when communicating by IR ) and a RCX 1.0. It's not downloading .lgo file. I've tried with few versions of this file and it's the same.

Now I'm trying on my PC in ROBOTC. Green light is lighting but RCX doesn't respond. I think it is failed. But manually with built in programs it's working

# Answer
> 1 votes
Try to use this (Windows XP x86):

RIS v2.0 software -\> http://www.mediafire.com/download/vrg2iajcv4uxkf3

Updated USB Tower drivers -\> http://www.philohome.com/sdk25/tower164.zip

Also maybe you have a faulty RCX or IR tower. Try to change the battery of the IR tower.

I recommend the use of the Windows XP x86 (32 bits) for install the RIS v2.0 software. You have to uninstall any QuickTime installed in the PC and install the QuickTime that comes with the RIS v2.0.

# Answer
> 1 votes
I have the same problem. I don't know why, but if I use only the plug adapter (without batteries inside) it works, communicates in/out with the tower. With batteries, no. In my case I only use this RCX with energy from plug adapter. (windows vista, robolab 2.9.4 , rcx 1.0 - usb tower).

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Tags: rcx, robotc
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# Question
Title: How to build a limited slip differential?
Lego provides a couple of ways for building a differential, such as this:

and also provides a limited-slip gear like this:

http://www.brickowl.com/catalog/lego-technic-differential-with-one-gear-28-tooth-bevel-with-open-center-62821

What's the simplest way to combine the two mechanically such that if you have one motor driving two wheels, they can turn at different speeds (i.e. they aren't locked to each other), but at the same time, they will both receive a reasonable amount of force (i.e. if one wheel does not make contact with the ground, the one that does will still apply some force, as opposed it it not spinning at all and the free-hanging one going at twice the speed)?

The simple solution is to just use some belts to drive both wheels, but I would like a geared solution if possible

# Answer
> 7 votes
If you haven't seen it, Sariel's limited slip differential technique might do what you want, but it's a little different than what you are asking for:

This setup doesn't provide a clean way of producing a fixed amount of torque to a wheel if it's partner is running free. It instead simply disables the differential if the wheels have been running at different speeds for too long. This isn't a perfect solution, but it is very simple and may work for you depending on exactly what you are trying to accomplish.

# Answer
> 1 votes
The question is old, but as noted in the accepted answer ("little different"), that does not actually illustrate how to use the Limited-Slip gear. With the limited-slip gear, you can even do without the differential. Note that the weels are on two different axels and the Limited-Slip gear is on the same axel as the opposite normal 24-tooth gear. The Limited-Slip gear does *not* touch the Crown gear.

Of course, it is possible to combine this with a differential:

It is also possible to combine the Limited-Slip gear with your type of differential as illustrated here: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/143133-mod-9398-limited-slip-diff-friction/

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Tags: building, technic, design, gears
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title: Is this an official Lego minifigure?

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# Question
Title: Is this an official Lego minifigure?
I have a spiderman figure, that does fit to Lego bricks and who's hands are the same as a Lego Minifigure, but I can't find out if it is an official (albeit somewhat older) Lego product. Any ideas?

# Answer
This looks like Spider-Man (Junior-fig). Although it is not so easy to confirm if your item is LEGO or clone-branded minifigure. You could look inside the legs if there are any LEGO logos.
> 4 votes

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Tags: minifigures, minifigure-identification
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