# Question
Title: Lego track switch doesn't close properly
Just two weeks ago, my kid got a 60198 cargo train and we added a set of 60238 switching tracks. With two (out of three) switches we have the problem that the switch doesn't close properly anymore to perform the lane change (the position to go straight is fine). As you can see the movable rail part doesn't completely close against the fixed rail track, causing the wheels to miss the turn. The train either just goes straight (best case) or de-rails (worst-case).

Any idea what the cause is, and is there anything I can do to fix this? This happened with two different sets, bought about 5 months apart (but put in use at same time) with two different vendors across Europe, so I'd be surprised this to be a 'bad batch'. I've also tried reversing the locomotive to check it isn't because the wheels are misaligned, but both the powered and non-powered wheels give the same result. On first sight it looks like there is a spring in the switch which got stuck/compressed/..., but I have no idea how to open this without breaking the track.

The correct "go straight" switch position is:

# Answer
> 10 votes
*Warning: LEGO pieces were harmed for this answer*

## How the switch works

* So, how does it work then? Well, let's open it up!

The back plate is held into place by 14 pins. We'll carefully pry it open with a knife. Alternatively, we could use a drill bit to slowly scrape off the pinheads.

**Both methods are destructive**. The back plate needs to be **glued back on** later.

Once we can lift off the backplate, we already got the slider.

Next we'll unplug the switch. Let's take a pair of pliers and carefully -just a bit!- squeeze the peg, then push it out.

* *Yellow*: **The slider** is of a soft plastic. Notice the **oval hole with a nose**. When you move the slider this bit gets squeezed and then snaps into position. There's **two stops**, they have a figure 8 shape.
* *Red*: At the end of the slider there's **a single tooth**. This tooth flicks the switch.
* *Green*: The switch has **a peg** and **a spring**. The spring has **two legs**.
* **The tooth is supposed to sit right between them.**

## What's next?

So much for starters. Now, what about your points?

In any case, use some compressed air first. Switch them repeatedly. Maybe it's just a grain of dust. Still not functioning properly? Can you still return them?

Okay. Let's triple troubleshoot:

* **Is the slider stuck?**
* **Can it move freely? Does it 'snap in'?**
* **Does the spring have enough tension?**

If the slider's malfunctioning, you'd have to remove the back plate. However, if the spring's your suspect there's a less destructive way.

## How to access the peg only

* In theory, one could try to pry out the switch with a flat screwdriver. I didn't dare it. Parts could warp, the peg could break and I think LEGO did their best to prevent creative kids from doing it.

But take a look at the back plate. You can barely see it, but **there's a circle**. It's right **on top of the peg**.

I took a drill bit and started to slowly scratch off some of the plastic. Once the tip was through, I finished off the rest with a scalpel.

Take your time! The plastic is quite thin and the peg's right under it.

I could now easily access the peg with my pliers and push it out. I adjusted the spring and lined everything up.

## How to access the spring

This might also work, but I don't recommend it. I gave it a try. It's way too fiddly.

Take a scalpel and cut a hole in the side of the switch. Now you can take a peek inside. See if the tooth is off-center. If so, try to lift the corresponding leg of the spring with a needle. Good luck.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Okay, this post is closing in 2 years old, but I have found it looking for a solution to my problem, so others may find it too. I found out two important things:

1. You don't need to cut or drill the switch to get to the offending spring. You can lift the pivot peg out getting at it from the top.
2. If the spring is FUBAR or missing, you can actually 3D print it. Full story here: https://www.biasedlogic.com/index.php/fixing-lego-railroad-switches/

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Tags: trains, tracks
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# Question
Title: How do people build large collections of bricks?
How have people built up such large collections of bricks?

I would like to get into building Lego Great Ball Contraption modules, but this needs a lot of parts to play with. I've got some Lego from (30ish) years ago, but not much seems to have survived, and I've bought a couple of bug Technics sets - but I need a lot more Technics, plus more standard bricks, plates, smooth plates etc.

Buying sets is one way, but expensive and I don't like to just make them and then instantly dismantle again.

Buying on a site like Bricklink is great for specific pieces, or when I have something to get it all in the same colour etc.

I've seen random "1Kg lego parts" on ebay which I can try to use that to build up a load - has anyone tried this?

Or is there another way I'm missing?

# Answer
> 2 votes
I keep my eye on Craigslist and Facebook Martketplace. There’s always someone selling a collection or a bucket of pieces. There’s also a subreddit /r/legomarketplace that sometimes has good deals. I’ve had success with all of these this year and have put together a great supply of parts and sets.

# Answer
> 1 votes
I haven't tried to buy a load but Facebook marketplace seems to have more choice these days for local heavy items for collection. Might be worth a look.

# Answer
> 0 votes
Generally speaking, for bulk bricks the best place is eBay.

For greater selection (probably what you need for largish pieces),

For individual pieces, Pick-A-Brick or Bricklink.

Also for several months now, Costco has been selling a 1500-piece Creator box for ~$40 which is as good as I've ever seen for new bricks.

# Answer
> 0 votes
Find a teenager you already know who will spread the word that you will trade old, boring Lego collections for new, shiny video game cash.

Their parents will HATE you.

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Tags: technic, shopping
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title: What brand set do I have?

text:
# Question
Title: What brand set do I have?
I'm trying to find the LEGO-like set I have so I can buy more and I want to make sure they are compatible. The box top says "max" and I have some of the instructions. You can build a castle, a house, ducks, giraffes. I thinks it's 2 different ones honestly. We bought 2. One in a red box and one with bags we added to it.

# Answer
I think you have a box of MAX building bricks, a clone brand from ZURU toys.
> 6 votes

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Tags: set-identification, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: Instructions or details for the buildings in Set 190
A wave of nostalgia has struck me this holiday weekend, and I have been doing some research on the kits in the big plastic tub in my closet. Among many others, I discovered that among my collection is Set #190, Building Set with People - Farm. I would guess this set was given to me when I was between ages four and seven, and I am now 40+. I remembered the tractor and plow, and some sort of house with a fence around it, and the parts I have confirm the match.

However, my instruction booklet is long lost for this set, and the scans I have found on ToysPeriod and Peeron seem to have only instructions for the vehicles and animals, but not for the greenhouse, house, and barn shown in the photos. In fact, based on the creases and location of page breaks, these two sites appear to have the same scan. I've found other sites with even fewer pages of these instructions.

I more or less figured out the fence and greenhouse from the photos, although I ran out of clear bricks for the greenhouse so probably I made a mistake somewhere. I may or may not have similar luck with the rest- I plan to try later.

I believe that sometimes Lego did this intentionally- put photos on the box just to give an idea or starting point. Does anyone know if this is what happened in this case?

Are there other places I can look for instructions, or at least detailed photos from other angles to help me build this?

# Answer
The instructions for that model are not included in the set.1

Youtube user BrickTsar LEGO® Collector rebuilt the model using the box as reference. The image below shows a screenshot from the video linked at the end of this post, it might be clearer to you how it was built.

The model he made isn't an exact like for like copy of the model shown on the set, but is very close. It is possible you won't use all the pieces provided in the set but it's worth checking that you have all the parts needed before you start using the inventory provided on Bricklink.

1 Youtube. LEGO 190 Building Set With People Farm Set from 1975 VINTAGE. Time: 1:58.
> 6 votes

# Answer
Five years after first posting this question, I discovered stud.io. Using my notes and photos from then, I re-built these three items again, this time in the virtual space, and posted them on bricklink:

As before, these are just my best guesses as to how things might have been, in a set I got as a gift some time in the mid to late 1970s. I also don't want to take anything away from Ambo100's great answer at the time. I'm just adding this for completeness, now that I have the designs available.
> 2 votes

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Tags: sets, instructions
---


title: Spike Prime remote command using screen

text:
# Question
Title: Spike Prime remote command using screen
I am trying to execute commands using the -X switch on the Spike Prime Hub but all I get is either nothing, or unknown command errors. Here is what I tried so far:

`screen /dev/ttyACM0 -X 'print("test")'
screen /dev/ttyACM0 -X $'print("test")/n'
screen /dev/ttyACM0 | 'print("test")'
screen /dev/ttyACM0 | $'print("test")/n'`

The piped commands gave me unknown command errors. When I change the main.py and add some prints, they are shown even if printed before I login. So stream wise that is working no matter when I login.

Another issue occures with the rshell rsync. I had to add a switch to stop the sound files from syncing since they crash rshell. Also rshell stops the code execution on the hub. I tried the above commands before and after rshell rsync call. When I login the hub after rshell I can enter python commands without hitting ctrl+c. Before rsync I have to stop execution with ctrl+c before I am able to type.

But the screen command does not execute python in all cases. Any ideas ?

The main task I want to achieve is that the hub continues execution after rsync. I wanted that with a screen command. But the whole Spike Prime software seems buggy and sluggish from the open source point of view.

# Answer
With the prime hub you need to exit the hub default process before you can send commands using `ctrl`-`c`.

`Ctrl`-`c` is the character `0x03`.

This is my python script that I use to send micropython scripts over to my hub: https://github.com/gpdaniels/spike-prime/blob/master/simulator/run.py

It has lots of nastyness in it like this:

```
port.write(b'\x03')
time.sleep(0.1)
port.write(b'\x03')
time.sleep(1.0)

```

To try and get the hub to stop the running script and behave.

Also there's functions to read the serial input from the hub until it sees the `>>>` characters which indicate the REPL is ready to receive python commands.
> 4 votes

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Tags: spike-prime, micropython
---


# Question
Title: Why does Pybricks on ev3dev have slow performance compared to EV3-G?
I got MINDSTORMS EV3 for my son and me. We installed Python (ev3dev) and ii seems to be running very slowly. I tried setting up the classic LEGO ev3g (block code), and that seems to run fine.

Are we doing something wrong or is Python very slow on MINDSTORMS?

Please help!

Example:

Simple program - display count and loop 100 times

Python: ~1.5s

ev3g: ~0.15s

Edit:

```
#!/usr/bin/env pybricks-micropython

from pybricks.hubs import EV3Brick
from pybricks.tools import wait, StopWatch

ev3 = EV3Brick()
ev3.speaker.beep()
timer = StopWatch()

for x in range(0, 100):
    ev3.screen.print(str(x) + ':' + str(timer.time()))

wait(5000)

```

This on the screen the last line displayed is 99:1113

this takes just over ~ 1.1s to loop 100 times

# Answer
Printing text in `pybricks-micropython` on ev3dev has known performance issues, so we don't recommend doing that in a loop. The trade off is that, unlike ev3-g, you can also print in other languages that don't use Latin scripts like Chinese and Russian. Most other things should run much faster.
> 2 votes

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms, ev3dev, pybricks
---


# Question
Title: Early 1980s snap together shop/house scene toy
Hoping someone can help. I grew up in the 80s and LEGO was my life but one birthday my grandparents bought me a building set which included plastic panels that snap together. When all put together it made a shop and street scene. From memory there were: Grey path pieces that interlocked, beige panels for the house, red/brown panels for the roof. The set also included green stems and little coloured flower pieces which when put together could fit into little holes in the grey path panels. There were also a few other little pieces that made up the scene.

I’ve researched on google looking at old toy catalogues, I’ve looked on eBay but can’t find anything.

Hopefully someone has an idea as it’s really racking my brain trying to figure out what this early 1980s plastic snap together set was called.

# Answer
Yes, I had the same sets, they formed roads for toy metal cars like Matchbox and Hot Wheels. The product name was Majo-kit, from a company called Majorette.
> 6 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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title: How to assemble the snake-head axe

text:
# Question
Title: How to assemble the snake-head axe
I want to make an axe out of the axe head with snake

There's a picture of how they did it here:

I don't know how to look up the accessories on the minifig on the right with the axe. Can anyone explain to me the parts used to attache the axe-head there?

# Answer
The axe is made of

as seen on page 5 of the instructions from set # 70626
> 5 votes

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Tags: minifigures
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title: How to generate Duplo instructions?

text:
# Question
Title: How to generate Duplo instructions?
I am aware of how to create a Lego model and generate instructions using LDD and Stud.io

However, I am having trouble figuring out how to do this for Duplo. How does one do this?

EDIT: @alex yes I think my question was poorly phrased.

I think my real question is "how can I create a Duplo model in LDD or Stud.io"

# Answer
> 4 votes
I can see some Duplo bricks in LDraw parts library, which is used by Stud.io as well, so you should be able to work out instructions the same way you do with usual bricks.

One thing to note is that availability of Duplo parts in LDraw is rather limited.

Alternatively, you can use LDCad (which uses LDraw library) to create your model. In this case you can find most of the Duplo elements under **Library sorted by function \> Duplo**.

---
Tags: instructions, duplo, cad
---


# Question
Title: Can you help me identify this grey part?
Could someone please help me identify this part?

# Answer
Minifigure, Hand Armor - Partnumber 28803 or 15407 Pearl Dark Gray
> 4 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Are there any sets without a lot of fluff?
I'm an adult but have come to fall back in love with LEGO again after building the LEGO Apollo Rocket kit.

I wanted to buy a large set of just various LEGO bricks to build neat things. But what I am finding is a lot of the basic sets are filled with fluff pieces. Things like little men and accents and things like that. Is there a way to buy just a box of classic pieces like when I was a kid?

# Answer
While nearly all sets these days to include a certain number of parts that you may be referring to as "fluff", the Classic line has the highest ratio of more typical bricks and plates that you may be used to and has a number of sets at quite a few price points that may be useful to you and are available both direct from LEGO and from many retailers.

A note of caution over your classification of those "fluff" pieces though: You may find if you progress to more advanced building techniques that many of those pieces you currently disdain are absolutely indispensable to accomplish some very interesting effects that are simply not possible with standard bricks and plates. Don't discount the utility of a part simply because you may not be familiar with their usefulness or that they may not be immediately related to your current project. A fairly common term in the community is NPU which stands for New (or sometimes Novel) Parts Usage and stems from people being very creative with parts that might not immediately seem to have any other purpose than their basic form might suggest, and has led to very interesting and quite stunning results.
> 12 votes

# Answer
While I really agree with Nathan's take on this, I'd like to point out another option. Why not just get a bucket of bricks like the 10698: Large Creative Brick Box? You even get a decent container to keep your collection of LEGO in:

Another view:

There aren't many instructions to get in your way. You get parts in a variety of colors. If you want more bricks you can save up and buy another bucket and be assured you'll get more of the same stuff.

Amazon in the US currently has this on sale even.
> 9 votes

# Answer
You can buy individual bricks in any quantity you want on the Lego.com website using pick-a-brick. There are about 1400 bricks to choose from in that system. You buy just the bricks you want and nothing you don't. If you feel like you need 500 pink 2x4 bricks you can order that. Its usually somewhere around 10 cents each for the smaller bricks.

https://www.lego.com/en-us/page/static/pick-a-brick

You can also order individual bricks using Bricks & Pieces. Its meant as a way to order replacement parts, but there is nothing that prevents you from ordering whatever you want. Unfortunately you need to know the part numbers (or the part number of a set containing the brick) to be able to find anything (because there is no catalog for that system). If you want to just order a bunch of gears or something like that, this is the way to go.

https://www.lego.com/en-us/service/replacementparts/
> 6 votes

# Answer
Anecdotally, I've had fantastic success with bulk, used LEGO, which is typically sold by weight on eBay et al. This is much more economical than buying new and tends to come in a more practical variety than kits if it's from an individual (rather than a larger re-seller).

If it's from an individual, remember that somebody loved that LEGO, so be excited, kind, and also wash it.
> 1 votes

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Tags: set-identification, shopping, bricks-and-pieces
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# Question
Title: Do old LEGO bricks contain lead, cadmium, or other hazardous elements?
I have a set of LEGO bricks from Denmark and they were made in the late 1960's; should I be concerned about my son playing with them because of any danger of lead, cadmium, or other substances in the product?

# Answer
> 22 votes
No, you should not be concerned about lead. LEGO has always used lead-free colors in their elements, even back in the beginning.

However, not all LEGO-compatible bricks are lead free. For example, Mega Bloks, which are made in China, suffered from the poor quality control that led to massive recalls over lead-tainted products a few years ago.

> David Clerk, the magazine's publisher and the executive director of Les Editions Protégez-Vous, said that after consulting with Health Canada, the magazine hired an independent lab in Quebec to perform what he called a "total lead test" on 32 toys, including the Maxi blocks.
>
> Essentially, the process involves scraping off a sample of the toy's plastic, dissolving it in acid and then analyzing the solution.
>
> When the results were returned by a lab, which Clerk said he could not identify because of a confidentiality agreement, a yellow Maxi block was the only toy that exceeded the 600-parts-per-million limit for lead set by Canada and the United States. Blue and red Maxi blocks showed no lead at all.
>
> For confirmation, the magazine tested a second yellow block. It contained 1,180 parts per million of lead, nearly double the initial result.

# Answer
> 1 votes
While this question was asked in 2012, in late 2018 there was a flurry of inflammatory headlines and blog posts on the topic. The origin of these is a January 2018 study “Concentrations and Migratabilities of Hazardous Elements in Second-Hand Children’s Plastic toys”, in the scientific journal *Environmental Science & Technology*, by Andrew Turner, open access. The author also gave a needlessly provocative (in my view) quote to the BBC: “Lego bricks from the 70s and 80s are the big fail”.

The study compared a couple dozen vintage plastic toys to modern European safety standards for nine hazardous elements, including lead and cadmium. Among other things, it found that a few colors of LEGO bricks exceeded modern standards for cadmium (but not lead). The key findings are in Table 3 on page 4 of the PDF. So then the question becomes: is this a genuine safety concern?

The specific standard in question is related to swallowing: “ingestion of a small quantity of material and defined by 2 \[hour\] extraction under simulated gastric conditions”. Being hard plastic, LEGOs fall under the “scraped-off” standard (as opposed to “brittle, powder, pliable” or “liquid, sticky”) of 23 micrograms cadmium per gram of LEGO (µg/g) (Table 1).

The worst-scoring LEGOs were red bricks from “sets that appear to have been purchased in the 1970s”. These had 274 µg/g of cadmium, about 12× the limit.

My own view as a layperson (scientist in a different field) is that this is not a significant health concern for LEGOs, for two reasons. First, safety standards are appropriately quite conservative, so consuming a small number of bricks I would guess is not a problem. More importantly, however, consuming LEGO bricks presents far more serious mechanical risks (choking, intestinal damage, etc.).

DUPLOs may be a little different since their audience is definitely the chew-on-stuff crowd. However, it seems the risk is swallowing material rather than licking the blocks, so any child scraping off a non-trivial amount of material with their teeth also risks breaking off and swallowing larger fragments, again putting us into mechanical territory.

Bottom line in my view, don’t eat your LEGOs and don’t let your kids eat them, but the reason is not cadmium.

(Quotations from the study unless otherwise specified.)

# Answer
> 0 votes
Read this blog post on the topic

https://tamararubin.com/2019/05/vintage-1970s-legos-test-positive-for-a-high-level-of-a-known-carcinogen-how-can-i-tell-if-my-legos-are-safe/

# Answer
> 0 votes
Wrong. Lego had lead in its bricks up to 1984. The probability of finding lead in Lego bricks exponentially over the years, but there was still a small probability of finding lead in the early 1980s.

Here is one article that covers the topic.

https://offspring.lifehacker.com/your-old-legos-might-be-toxic-1822608757

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Tags: history, safety
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# Question
Title: Technic Rough Terrain Crane (42082) doesn't move
After first book, crane won't roll if pushed. If this normal. I know when you free soon one wheel, the other will go opposite direction, but when I try to spin all four in one direction, it locks. It this normal until motors are functional?

# Answer
> 5 votes
Motor is only being used to operate the crane, not to drive the model. So driving/pushing shouldn't be blocked at any time. I suspect there will be an issue with position of differential - if placed incorrectly both axles will spin opposite directions. And if placed on the ground the model will simply not move.

Check steps 169 and 268 in instructions booklet to compare and confirm the position of differential housings in your model.

Step 169 has this picture:

Step 268:

Further step 273 has this picture showing that both differentials should be facing opposite directions:

It is also important to check the placement of the gears if they haven't been pushed too hard against any liftarms/beams and are not jammed.

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Tags: technic, gears
---


# Question
Title: Is there a MILS-like standard for medieval villages and castles?
I'm aware of the MILS standard for building large layouts including city and train elements:

This could obviously be adapted for use in medieval layouts, but is there something like this that has already been standardized and put in use by LUGs?

# Answer
> 4 votes
The Modular Medieval Village Standard put together by the Rochester, NY LUG (RochLUG) provides this. It features an underlying support layer very similar to MILS:

Most modules will feature a randomized cobblestone road providing transit between structures:

Structures of various kinds can be added to the modules:

Many modules created by different people can be connected to create convincing medieval villages:

Complete details of the system can be found in the PDF shared by RochLUG.

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Tags: design, afol
---


title: Who designed EV3RSTORM?

text:
# Question
Title: Who designed EV3RSTORM?
I wonder, who designed EV3RSTORM? I have searched on Google but no results.

# Answer
Brickset identifies JØRN THOMSEN as the designer of the 31313 set:

https://brickset.com/sets/31313-1/Mindstorms-EV3

Although I'm also inclined to believe that probably a group of people came up with the various initial robots.
> 2 votes

# Answer
I think that actually the five main robots were made by a *group of people*.

On this page, it tells who designed the fan robots, but it doesn't say so for the 5 main robots, which include EV3RSTORM.

To quote from this site:

> Like the early robot turtles, these programmable Lego constructions were still tethered to a computer with wires. So Seymour Papert wondered if it would be possible to create a Lego brick that could serve as the computer – a fully programmable brick.
>
> A working prototype was built by the Media Lab in 1987, but it wasn’t until a decade later that Lego trademarked Mindstorms – a nod to Papert’s 1980 book Mindstorms: Children, Computers, and Powerful Ideas – and brought the programmable brick to market.

It says it was made by a group called Media Lab. It doesn't mention any specific names though, so once again it's likely a group of people... who probably designed *all* of the EV3, including the brick itself and all 5 main models.

oh I forgot, Papert was one of the people in the media lab apparently
> 0 votes

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms, history
---


# Question
Title: What other uses are there for pull-back motors?
Sets 42010 and 42011 feature a pull-back motor. They have a very high torque for a very small numbers of turns, they then free-wheel.

I'm trying to find alternate usage for them. That is anything but connecting them directly to the wheels without gears, as putting any gear demultiplication is great while the motor is turning, but it quickly prevents the vehicle moving when free wheeling.

What I've managed to do so far:

* Using it to launch a spinning top
* Launch a rotor blade

Anything else ?

# Answer
> 8 votes
Yoshihito Isogawa made clock mechanisms from it (well... tic-tac generators) http://www.isogawastudio.co.jp/legostudio/modelgallery\_model/b077.html and http://www.isogawastudio.co.jp/legostudio/modelgallery\_model/b078.html.

Majorna created a "programmable" pull back racer http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=69748&#entry1744425

...and another clock by neomomonga: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3-CDFw4O38

# Answer
> 7 votes
Just today I tried to use it quite successfully as an alternative to suspension springs. Right now I don't have it assembled so I can't post a screenshot, but the idea is to wind up the pullback motor then attach it to your construction with a cross axis from one side and beams from another and limit its moving with some details. If you are interested in how I have done it, I will assemble it to demo and post images.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Once I built a hand-powered semi-automated screwdriver toy for kids. They needed to "charge it" first by rotating a gear and then push a button to release power. Then they could apply it to a crane or other models.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Build a catapult with it. The catapult arm would be attached to the motor. Pulling the arm down will wind the motor

# Answer
> 0 votes
I built a ball launcher out of one. Kind of like a baseball launcher.

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Tags: technic, piece-usage
---


title: What pieces are prone to breaking?

text:
# Question
Title: What pieces are prone to breaking?
I've had a few pieces break over the years, which was a real bummer as I was not expecting them to.

**What are some commonly used pieces that are prone to breaking?** Pieces that should be handled carefully and stored separately.

# Answer
Lego is generally quite robust, but there are potential weaknesses:

## Material Problems

Some parts are prone to damage as a consequence of the material from which they are made:

### Plastic

* Sunlight can cause discoloration
* Bricks can be damaged by extremes of temperature
* Older bricks (pre ABS) are prone to warping, discoloration and may become brittle
* Most plastic bricks are easily damaged by pressure (eg. from teeth) and abrasion

### Stickers

* Most are easily damaged by water
* Wear easily
* Are easily damaged when they span components

### Rubber

* Rubber bands tend to perish

## Structural Problems

Damage can also be caused due to the shape and structure of some components:

### Long Parts

Long thin parts are prone to bending or snapping under load, for example:

* Long technic beams
* Flags, signs etc. with long stems
* Larger plates and baseboards
* Swords
* Propeller blades

### Clips and Other Joints

* Lego clips are prone to breaking under stress, for example:
    + Minifigure hands
    + Flags that clip on to flag poles
    + Bricks with clips on
    + etc.
* For older types of window frame, the lugs that hold the shutters can snap off quite easily:

* Ball sockets can break if you force the ball out by levering it against the socket instead of pulling it straight out.

* The hinge holes on chests can be stripped out by pushing the lid open too far

### Technic Parts

* Wheels and gears can crack under stress
* Smaller items that fit on technic (axles bushes and the smaller cogs) are easily crushed

### Other Parts

* It is rather easy to supply excessive force to angle brackets eg. by stepping on them or when they are at the junction long parts that can apply leverage

## Electronics

Electronic items have special problems:

* Battery boxes can be ruined by leaking batteries
* Electrical items can be damaged by applying the wrong voltage, eg. 12v to 4.5v lamps
* Most electrical items can be damaged by water
* Cables break easily, and (at least in the case of the old 4.5v system) can easily be pulled from plugs
* Some conductors are prone to corrosion

## Recommendations

I recommend:

* Sort lego before washing to remove parts that will be damaged by water
* Don't play with lego on the floor where it can be stepped on
* Keep bricks out of sunlight
* Don't let bricks get too hot
* Keeping lego away from children(!) and pets
* Remove batteries when not in use
> 15 votes

# Answer
* Minifig Hands (and skeleton arms) - if you replace/change tools often
* Axles - be careful where bearing loads, long axles make easy weak points.
* Gears - I've had cracked 24t gears - old style, cracked old style crown gears, and those tiny bevel gears, the old style - I've had those broken too.
* Pneumatic system push fittings - I've seen sheared off.
* Electrical cables - these can get caught up and kinked which will break the signal.
* Lego space - whip antenna - - these can snap in the long fragile stem.
* Longer accessories - such as Swords and Spears can be bent and broken.
* Technic 2M Cross Axle with Groove have been snapped under load.
* Lego-made rubber bands exposed to oxygen degrade over time.
> 8 votes

# Answer
The pieces that broke most frequently for me were the 2-by-2 square flags:

They are often used in pirate sets as cannon porthole covers (shown in red on the Black Seas Barracuda). The clips tend to break *very* easily.
> 6 votes

# Answer
I would say the most breakable piece, in my opinion, is the **Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Clip Horizontal**.
> 5 votes

# Answer
I've had quite a few of these break:

Peeron calls them Minifig Mechanical Arm (id 30377). Apparently Lego calls them Space Skeleon Arm (I'm guessing that should be Skeleton, but no idea)

They're used as door hinges in the City Passenger Plane:
> 3 votes

# Answer
**Wheel 30.4 x 14 VR** has the tendency to crack around the axle under high stress.
> 2 votes

# Answer
The ones that break for me are the sockets for the ball joints. See http://www.flickr.com/photos/grandpappy/3988584161/...
> 2 votes

# Answer
Minifigure hook hands are easily broken — especially the gold-coloured hooks from the 2010 Pirates line, as the material used for gold pieces is rather fragile.
> 2 votes

# Answer
It isn't even a fair contest. In my childhood of playing with Lego Space sets, this piece (Bracket 2 x 2 - 2 x 2) broke the most.
> 1 votes

# Answer
The ones that gave me the most trouble were the "new-style" BIONICLE axle connectors like this one:

It seems that the parts holding the axle ball were much thinner than on the previous versions, and they tended to crack and break from extensive use. It was possible to use some cracked ones, but some broke beyond that.
> 1 votes

# Answer
98% precent of all the broken LEGO pieces I own are colored in reddish brown. I've broken a lot of them too. Just broke one right now, in fact. They probably use a weaker type plastic on them. I seem to be the only one who's ever noticed this.
> 1 votes

# Answer
I remember that *back in the day* (which would be mid eighties), I had a number of 1×1 translucent plates *split* on me. Right through the middle — and then I had two halves. They would typically split either when trying to connect or disconnect them to/from a regular stud. No idea if it was a bad batch or what. Haven't had that happen with more recent versions.
> 0 votes

# Answer
I see no mention of Lego propeller blades. Both when I was a child and now in my kids' LEGO collection I find it hard to get a propeller that doesn't have at least 1 blade broken off.
> 0 votes

# Answer
I've had one or two long technic pins (part 6558) break on me.
> 0 votes

# Answer
This weekend I sorted through some boxes of lego that have laid dormant under my parents' house since I moved out. They contained bricks from the 80s to late 90s. THe only broken pieces I found where these technic chain pieces, crushed at the bottom of the box, and lego traffic signs broken off at the base. I can reuse the traffic signs by sticking them into a 1x1x1 barrel piece, but the chain is ruined and I'll need to buy a whole new one.
> 0 votes

# Answer
Without about the hinge plate. All three I had in 6652 and 6678 broke at the time which was really disappointing in pre-Internet times as you had no way of replacing them.
> 0 votes

# Answer
Slope 30 1 x 1 x 2/3, better known under "Cheese Slope" name is another element that tend to crack even in the modern days no matter what color is being used.

Technic U-joints are also quite vulnerable parts in motorized applications.
> 0 votes

# Answer
1x1 plates in transparent colors (mainly red and green) from the Lego space sets in the 80's/90's seem to use a plastic that is very brittle to start with and doesn't age well.

Just pushing one of those onto a stud can be enough to break the piece in 2 or more parts. I just rebuild all my old sets over the Christmas holiday to identify and replace missing/damaged parts and I found I needed to replace 12 of these, out of a total of 31.

I broke about half during the rebuild. The other half were already broken 20 years ago when the pieces were relatively new. I recall that 1 snapped when it was brand-new on the first time build when I bought that set around 1995.)
> 0 votes

---
Tags: piece-information, durability
---


# Question
Title: Is a brick with a smaller Lego logo real?
I recently bought a set from Bricklink, and noticed while building that a couple of pieces had a slightly different logo placement and size. The larger logo matched all my other bricks, but the smaller one didn’t.

I’m wondering if this is a fake brick, or is a result of a different / older mould? I did some quick searching online and couldn’t find anything related to this issue, but the gloss and colour of each piece appears to be the same, and both include the same correct piece ID (although again printed slightly differently). I bought the set boxed but used, and everything seemed right so I’m assuming it’s genuine but just looking for some peace of mind, and curious as to what would lead to this difference.

Many thanks in advance!

# Answer
Many sets have had mold changes over the years, as they get slightly redesigned, or even just wear out. I would rest at ease.

It's the old pieces that don't have ANY markings that say Lego that always worry me.

Edited: I took photos of two Duplo train track pieces I noticed today. I merged them together to show the scales are (very close to) the same, yet the logo sizes are quite different. I also included the untouched photos for completeness, and because they're easier to read.

In summary: Lego changes their logo size on the same part.
> 5 votes

---
Tags: piece-information, manufacturing
---


# Question
Title: Database of parts with alternate numbers
I am ordering parts for some MOC I found online. As I compare the parts needed against my inventory, I find that I already have some of them but under different part numbers. For example, I have part 30526 under 53540 in my inventory from the sets we have collected. It gets even more complicated for some parts like this one here and here, under five different numbers.

Is there anyway to retrieve all the parts with alternate numbers?

# Answer
> 3 votes
I believe that the `part_relationships` table in the Rebrickable database can do this for you.

The `part_relationships` table maps parts to other parts. It tracks relationships such as parts that are prints of other parts, parts that are mold variations of one another, and parts that are alternates for one another. I believe that for your use case, you are interested in mold variations. These are indicated by a `M` in the `rel_type` field of the `part_relationships` table.

You can access the Rebrickable database either using the API or the CSV table dumps. If it saves time, I do maintain a set of scripts to build an SQLite database from the CSV dumps.

# Answer
> 3 votes
What you are asking here is to have all possible part numbers for similarly looking elements. However, while both elements could look to be the same for you they may have significantly different properties.

Both Bricklink and Rebrickable have alternative numbers for the same mould, which is the case with the element in first URL. However, last two items are different elements - one has **Thin** support and the other comes with **Thick** support - which is why they are separated. It may be negligible for you, but someone else may find such difference essential.

Another approach would be to lookup by name - searching for "Arm Mechanical, Exo-Force" results in finding both elements, no matter if it is thin or thick version. Looking up by main properties (mainly size) can give you other, alternative elements as well. A good example here would be "Brick 2 x 4" - there is a classic 2x4 brick as well as some modified ones, that would all work fine when building, say a wall. But classic brick may not work if model utilize special properties of that particular modified version of 2x4 brick.

If your issue is with building MOCs that you found on Rebricklable you can adjust your building options. You can apply this permanently across the website in your setting page: **Account \> Settings \> Building Sets/MOCs \> Ignore mold variations in parts**.

Or you can apply this setting for particular Set/MOC: **Build this MOC \> Change Build Options \> Ignore mold variations in parts**

---
Tags: part-database
---


# Question
Title: Curious Case of Polybag Sold Separately in ~2003
I am currently in the middle of my long Dark Age and I am trying to identify the polybag that was sold separately in Poland around year 2003. It had a number, airholes, LEGO logo and yellow accents, it contained assorted, mostly useless (including non-matching) parts in weird colors.

I am absolutely sure these were inside and I know for a fact that parts differed slightly on bag to bag basis. It looks like these were excess throw-away parts.

1x 4204: Brick 8x16 - Dark Gray
3x 41748pr0020: Wedge Curved 6x2 Left with 3 Ovals Print
3x 30144pr0015: Brick 2x4x3 with Octan Print - White
1x 30144: Brick 2x4x3 - Tan

Can somebody kindly shed some light on it, what was that and why would they even sell such things? For the record I have never had any of the sets in which these parts were originally used (according to Rebrickable).

# Answer
Air holes always seem dangerous when there's a possibility of small Lego pieces that could be forced through.

North American Lego stores used to sell these bags, but stopped in roughly 2010 due to health concerns regarding sanitizing (so I was told). They were, as yours were, just leftover bricks. I realize they don't match your description of air holes or a number, but thought they might jog someone's memory.
> 4 votes

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: How to eliminate a gap of an offset in a corner
So I need to build a layer with offset bricks, which I have managed to figure out. However, the corner is a problem. The dark bricks in my pic need to be in that position. How do I fill the gap between them around the corner? I'm assuming i will need to use a headlight brick but how? (I have managed to work out what to do in straight line, but now the corner is a problem.

Update:

Thanks, that makes sense, it was the half spaces I was wondering about. A bad attempt at clarifying but here it goes.

# Answer
> 4 votes
***UPDATE:*** Attempt Number Two.

Okay, everything's set up *almost* like your first uploaded image:

* Stone Gray 1x2 *jumper plates* as the base is the same.
* The three Black 1x1 *Bricks* are still in those key positions, except they're all modified *Headlight Bricks*, instead.
* All bricks have been skewered through with a combination of *Light Sword Blades* and *Shafts*.
* *LEGO Digital Draw* won't allow placement of a brick on a stud-less surface. To get around this I used 1x12 and 1x6 *plates* for temporary staging, and then deleted them after the *shish kebabbing*.
* There's still a gap, but the gap number has been reduced to one, and made less noticeable.

Let me know if anyone wants the build file (Minus *Picasso's Junk Lighthouse* behind it.).

# Answer
> 4 votes
Depending on what you are planning to do, there are several options. @Rin Rio-Oki showed solutions for when you are planning to build a fence-like structure, but if this is supposed to be a solid wall, here are three options:

The option furthest back is where you use a 1x1 brick with side stud and a tile in the corner. You could alternatively replace one of these with a headlight brick and a cheese slope if you want the corner to have an angle.

The middle option and the front option use a Technic 1x1 brick as a jumper (as it has a hollow stud on the top) to put the top plate in line with the bottom plate, which then allows you to line up your other bricks with the corner. Two different solutions for this are shown. I have color-coded the bricks for ease of reference (right side of the picture shows all the bricks used).

# Answer
> 3 votes
I ran into this problem a couple years ago and was able to solve it. The trick is to use the piece 6134, which is a quarter of a plate thick. It's an old question but I thought it would be good for a picture to be here in case others run into this problem and find this question.

# Answer
> 1 votes
An idea occurred to me so I installed LDraw to make this image:

In the left figure I used a 2x2 offset tile to get the corner to meet.

On the right figure there is 1/2 stud offset in both directions that the 2x2 tile will fit into.

I cannot find a "legal" way to loose the offset at the top and bottom.

---
Tags: building, design, ldd
---


title: How do the Infrared Towers work?

text:
# Question
Title: How do the Infrared Towers work?
I've seen a few Mindstorms "infrared transmission towers" listed on Brick Owl, Bricklink and other sites. However, I cannot find any good documentation that how they work, how they are used by users, or why they exist.

Can someone shed some "light" on this for me?

# Answer
IR Transmitter Tower exist in both USB version as well as Serial cable version.

Page 7 of instructions for one of the sets (3804) that was using USB version has following explanation:

Transcription:

> The IR Tower establishes a wireless link between your computer and the RCX. With the IR Tower, programs can be downloaded from computer to RCX. These programs can then be executed (run) by the RCX.
>
> The IR Tower uses infrared signals to send messages.
>
> For communication to occur, the RCX and IR Tower must be able to see each other. Even through 4-6 inches (10-12 cm) works best for downloading, in optimal lightning conditions, communication is still possible at distances up to 90 feet (30 meters) away.
>
> To Download firmware to your RCX: Make sure your tower is plugged in and your RCX is turned on. Run the Robotics Invention System™ software and click the **Settings** button on the Main Menu. Click the button for downloading firmware.
>
> Downloading takes approximately 4 minutes. The Software Watch counts as the firmware is downloading and will beep when it is done, do not switch off or move your RCX while downloading.
>
> For more informations about setting up your RCX to work with your PC go to Settings.

And it also contains (rather obvious) picture of supposed use:
> 9 votes

# Answer
Why they exist: to transmit programs from your computer to the Mindstorms smart brick (which is really another, probably smaller, computer). This was before USB ubiquity, and it also prevented children from plugging and unplugging a cable at the back of their computer, which is a dangerous move, even for adults.
> 3 votes

---
Tags: part-identification, mindstorms, electronics
---


# Question
Title: What's the purpose of 46834 & 46835 pieces (two wheels clutched into each other)
There is this strange wheel-like piece consisting of two pieces snapping into each other and offering to insert both axles from both sides, as shown in the first image.

**What is the purpose of this part instead of just using a straight axle?** I see that the holes for the axles are twisted by 45° between the two parts, but for that purpose, a much simpler part similar to the tubes joining two axles could be designed. The only purpose I can vaguely imagine is that it's sort of a clutch limiting the torque to prevent damage.

I particularly wonder why this is used in the track roller of the Liebherr excavator (42100 set) as shown in the second image below.

# Answer
Step 45 of instructions for 42100 set shows entire drive-train for one side of the tracks before it is being covered with some panels and beams. I've taken that image and have drafted a rough path between the motor and Tread Sprocket Wheel that will then transfer this motion to tread links.

As you can see Clutch is within this drive-train, so it makes clear that its main purpose is to prevent damage to gears when track get stuck.

If there were no clutch some of those 12T gears would get an increased load and could be damaged since torque is being increased several times here.
> 9 votes

# Answer
This is a torque-limiting component. When one side is prevented from turning but the other side is forced to turn, the inner piece comes out of its "click location" and into the next one.

It requires quite a large torque before it activates. You will not be able to generate the torque just by turning the two components with your bare hands. To see the effect, you may need to attach axles and large wheels, or lever arms, or use gears, or a motor.
> 11 votes

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Tags: piece-information, technic
---


# Question
Title: Why I get this message saying "unable to compile some documents for deployment ev3"?
I have a LEGO Mindstorms EV3 program that I was working on for a long time but recently and suddenly when I try to download the program the software displays the following message:

> "unable to compile some documents for deployment"

Taking into consideration that there are no missing blocks and the sensors ports are adjusted correctly and checked many times. What is the main cause of this and how can this be fixed?

# Answer
Is that the whole error message or are there more lines to it?

You could always try copying and pasting your project pieces into a new project, maybe the project file itself got corrupted in some way.

It also might be possible that some of your custom blocks have errors in them.

If none of these work for you, then try to isolate the source of the error - hold `Ctrl` and click on parts of the program, then press Run Selected (looks like play sign with parentheses) to check if the error is still there. If the error goes away after testing a specific block, then it is the source of the error, therefore you should look more closely to find the issue.
> 3 votes

# Answer
If You are using Custom "My-blocks", try copying their content, deleting the block, then pasting it into another tab and re-make it. Hope I helped :)
> 2 votes

# Answer
Create a new MyBlock and delete the old MyBlock.

So, you have to create a new MyBlock with a different name and move all the programming to the new MyBlock. Then delete the old MyBlock and replace the old MyBlock with the new MyBlock. This did work for us.
> 0 votes

---
Tags: ev3, software
---


# Question
Title: What 3D modelling services could I use to create custom LEGO pieces?
I want to create some custom LEGO Technic pieces, but I can't seem to find any software that is good at making it. I have tried using Blender, but it is hard to create holes.

Do you have any suggestions?

# Answer
I haven't tried creating my own parts. However, I've seen that Bricklink's PartDesigner is quite popular in the community. It looks like the creation process is quite streamlined, you can edit the connectivity info of each piece, and it plays very nice with Bricklink's Studio.
> 3 votes

# Answer
I'm sorry you've been frustrated with Blender. It is complicated and not as intuitive as it could be, but the alternatives are vastly more expensive for slightly better UX. 3D modeling is a lot of learning, regardless of the tool. Blender seems to be the best free general 3D modeling package available. There are tons of tutorials out there and Blender.SE for specific questions.

You might find working with Blender is easier if you have exported parts from something LEGO-compatible like Mecabricks. Export a few Technics bricks and beams and hopefully you can figure out how to cut and paste the sections you need. Mecabricks also exports STL, OBJ, and DAE files if you want to work with the proprietary 3d modeling packages.

Or you may find it easier to do the bulk of your modeling in Mecabricks and then make a few customizations in Blender.
> 2 votes

---
Tags: technic, software, 3d-printing
---


# Question
Title: Does LEGO sell a DC relay for Power Functions?
I’d like to use a signal from a (5V) littleBits circuit to control some (9V) Power Functions motors.

Does LEGO sell or recommend a DC relay to facilitate this sort of thing?

If the answer is no, I’d welcome any ideas or experiences in how to do this in a way that’s both easy and LEGO-compatible.

# Answer
LEGO doesn't make something to directly facilitate this type of integration as far as I know. If you can get a PF extension wire, you could cut it and directly make the connections to your driver circuit.

You can drive the motor using the middle wires of the PF cable (C1 and C2).

For what its worth, I would personally prefer an H-bridge such as this one over a relay as you get faster switching and can use PWM for speed control among other benefits. You'd power a board like that using a 9V supply and connect the C1 and C2 power lines to one of the outputs. Your 5V logic-level signals would connect to one set of inputs to control the motor.
> 5 votes

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Tags: motor, power-functions, electronics, 3rd-party
---


title: What set(s) is this piece from?

text:
# Question
Title: What set(s) is this piece from?
What set is this from, or what is the piece number?

# Answer
This is

Part # 45301pb023 : Wedge 16 x 4 Triple Curved with SW V-wing Starfighter Pattern (Sticker)

It appears in

7915: Imperial V-wing Starfighter
> 13 votes

---
Tags: part-identification, set-identification, piece-information
---


# Question
Title: Robot Inventor 51515 - PIN request when connecting via Bluetooth
Just received the item 51515

Managed to connect the Mindstorms controller via Bluetooth from mobile without any problems. Great! Next step, connect from PC. When I connect from my Windows machine I get Bluetooth PIN prompt.

What PIN should I put in?

# Answer
I removed the brick using Windows Bluetooth panel. Then once again readded the device using Lego software. And this time it did not ask me for the Bluetooth PIN.
> 6 votes

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Tags: mindstorms
---


# Question
Title: When using pi * distance between wheels/tracks, how do I measure distance between wheels?
I am trying to make a program that requires my 51515 to turn a specified number of degrees. I found a way to do that on the LEGO app's "Knowledge Base", but the given example was:

```
import math
from mindstorms import MotorPair

motor_pair = MotorPair('B', 'A')

# Turn a Driving Base 180 degrees in place (if wheels are 8.1 cm apart).
motor_pair.move(8.1 * math.pi / 2, 'cm', steering=100)

```

My issue is that I do not know exactly how to measure the distance between the wheels. Am I supposed to measure from the middles of the wheels? The outsides? the insides?

# Answer
> 4 votes
This formula will need the lateral distance between wheels, i.e. the distance between left and right wheel, not the back and front wheel.

> motor\_pair.move(8.1 * math.pi / 2, 'cm', steering=100)

The `steering=100` parameter means that the wheels will move in opposite directions. For the **8.1** value, one wheel will move **+12.7cm** and the other wheel will move **-12.7cm**. That is half of the circumference of a circle with diameter of **8.1 cm**.

Now to the question: exactly what point of the wheel you should measure in left-right direction. It should be the point of the wheel that does not slip when turning - the outer edge will slip one way and the inner edge will slip the other way.

Measuring between the middle of the wheels will be a good first approximation. However the exact value will depend on the tire texture and their mounting alignment. You can test how exactly it turns 180 degrees and fine tune the value to larger or smaller.

---
Tags: programming, robotic, wheel, spike-prime
---


# Question
Title: I have found some torsos from a collection in my dad’s loft; can you identify them?
These were in a set but I cannot for the life of me find them despite many searches online and on Bricklink... Any help much appreciated.

# Answer
The last one is from Indiana Jones

Part# 973pb0452 - Torso Indiana Jones V-Neck with Bow and Flower Pattern

It appears in Marion Ravenwood - White Outfit
> 3 votes

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Tags: minifigure-identification
---


title: Mindstorm Nxt Brick not starting

text:
# Question
Title: Mindstorm Nxt Brick not starting
My Nxt Brick is not starting at all after sitting idle for an year. I tried all options like resetting, re-installing the software etc. The laptop doesn't even show up Lego in Device Manager. Any advice?

If it is not going to start off, will a BrickPi work as a substitute?

# Answer
> 1 votes
I have the same problem with mine.

Some time ago I had a really bad battery leak, and with some perseverance I managed to clean up the majority of the corrosion using distilled water, white vinegar and a mountain of cotton buds!

Unfortunately, I lost my speaker (The plastic, and thin cables completely destroyed)and I suspect some damage to the contacts along the edge of my LCD occurred.

What I find now, is that my LCD in general doesn't work, and IF my unit has been switched off for an extended length of time, I have to get a fresh set of AA batteries (All 6) pop them in, and plug the USB cable in, then just leave it sitting there connected to the PC for about 4 hours, after which I open my computers device manager, press the power key and usually see the device manager spring to life.

If the batteries are good, I might get some flickers of graphic on the display, but for the most part the display is effectively useless, however if your happy to open your unit up and not afraid of electronics, then some isotropic alcohol and a non fibrous micro cloth (Such as a glasses lens cloth) can be used to clean the rubber contacts around the edge of the LCD (Mine had 0 output until I did this, and only then did I start getting some flickers of activity)

It does seem to be a common problem too, judging by the amount of units for sale on eBay with non working displays for spares or repair...

---
Tags: nxt
---


# Question
Title: NXT software on Windows 10 isn't detecting NXT brick
I have the Mindstorms NXT software and brick (CPU), and I worked with them a long time ago running NXT on a Windows XP. Now, I would like to retrieve the brick to teach my son, and I installed the NXT software on Windows 10. The application runs well, but it does not detect the brick. I have read that NXT software is not supported on Windows 10, but other sites tell that NXT works well on Windows 10. Could someone give me more details on how to install and run the NXT software on Windows 10?

# Answer
> 4 votes
You need a newer version of the Lego Fantom Driver.

You can download it here as part of the whole software kit: https://education.lego.com/en-us/downloads/retiredproducts/nxt/software

If you want JUST the driver on it's own, scroll to the advanced section at the bottom of this page: https://www.lego.com/en-us/themes/mindstorms/downloads

And grab the NXT Fantom Driver file

Unzip the downloaded file, then follow the usual "install driver from disk" under win 10 procedure.

The driver works perfectly fine under windows 10:

But some of the driver installers for 64bit have an error in the install script, and need to be patched before they work. If your driver setup (Assuming you use the exe setup method) fails, the instructions to patch the driver can be found here:

> Your installation will fail if you are using a 64bit-Windows. The reason for this is a slightly defect setup.ini-file, which refers to a LegoMindstormsNXTdriver64Supp.msi which does not exist.
>
> I don’t know when Lego will fix this (current version 1.2.0 still has the problem), but there is an easy workaround:
>
> * Download the File, Unzip it
> * Go to „NXT Fantom Drivers\NXT Fantom Drivers\Windows\1.2\1.2.0, open setup.ini in your favorite editor (still using notepad???)
> * Search for the line „\[LegoMindstormsNXTdriver64Supp.msi\]“
> * In the next line, enter another, valid path (even if it has nothing to do with the Driver-Support). e.g. change it to „Path=Products\LEGO\_NXT\_Driver\_64\NXT\_D02\LegoMindstormsNXTdriver64.msi“.
> * Save the file
> * Start the normal setup.exe
> * When the installer asks you which components you want do install, deselect the „LEGO MINDSTORMS NXT x64 Driver Support“ LegoInstaller
>
> * Finish the rest of the installer with the defaults, everything should run smooth now. The Driver-Support files are not necessary for normal use

---
Tags: nxt, software
---


# Question
Title: Power for LEGO Creator Expert Roller Coaster (10261)
In order to power the Creator Expert Roller Coaster (10261) can the 'Power Up' components Technic XL Motor (88014) and Technic Hub (88012) be substituted for 'Power Functions' components M Motor (8883) and AAA Battery Box (88000) which have both been discontinued? Thank you for your assistance.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Yes, Powered Up is the replacement for Power Functions. However, Powered Up requires a smart device (smartphone/tablet) to control the hubs.

Used Power Functions parts are also available for sale on sites such as Bricklink, Brick Owl and Ebay.

---
Tags: powered-up
---


title: Lego Bag Identification?

text:
# Question
Title: Lego Bag Identification?
My son has this bag of unopened lego with no instructions. Bag has numbers 135149 and says 2011. Colours are mostly brown and white. There are eye pieces included both open and closed with eyelashes.

# Answer
According to BrickLink, only set 10692 Creative Bricks has all of:

Do those eyes look right?
> 3 votes

---
Tags: set-identification
---


title: Lego bags missing sets

text:
# Question
Title: Lego bags missing sets
I have some Lego bags that I do not know which set they belong to. Can you guys help me?

# Answer
These are from

42098: Car Transporter

Key parts
> 4 votes

---
Tags: set-identification, technic
---


# Question
Title: 'Plate/tile hybrids' (plates with studs missing)
I wonder whether a piece exists fitting any of the following (equivalent) descriptions:

* As a 1x2 jumper (two-studs-to-one-stud-jumper) or a 1x3 jumper (three-studs-to-two-studs-jumper), but without the 0.5 stud offset.
* As a 1x2 or 1x3 plate, but with one stud missing.
* Ax a 1x1 or 1x2 plate 'stuck to' a single 1x1 tile.

EDIT: the intended use was to attach the 'hair' for a Bionicle MOC representing a character of the Vortixx race. I planned to build the head using a Vahki head with a one-axle-two-pins perpendicular connector attached to the axle hole on the back of the head, then attach the tile/plate-hybrids I described to the connector's pin holes with their studs, and finally 'loop' three system chains between the now-exposed stud holes. Currently I'm leaning towards just using two 1x3 jumpers and living with the half-stud of open space.

# Answer
Unfortunately, this part does not exis.

In addition to the part suggest by Michael, you might be able to use the 2x2 tile with 2 studs (33909) if your design could be adjusted to make use of a 2x2 part:
> 7 votes

# Answer
No, those parts currently do not exist. There does however exist a 1x4 plate with the middle studs missing: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?id=172557#T=C

Perhaps tell us the application you have in mind, and we can suggest other existing elements.
> 6 votes

---
Tags: part-database
---


title: Can you identify this fencer

text:
# Question
Title: Can you identify this fencer
Can anyone identify this hair piece and head? I did a search for moustache on Bricklink and couldn't find it.

# Answer
The head is

part # 3626bpx129 : Minifigure, Head Moustache Black Bangs, Striped Sideburns, Cleft Chin Pattern - Blocked Open Stud

Hair

The rapier (sword) is from Brickarms
> 8 votes

---
Tags: minifigure-identification
---


# Question
Title: Mindstorms EV3 unable to drive two motors simultaneously
Yesterday I had the basic driving robot with two large motors, but I could not get both motors running at the same time. I had the tank control programming block, with both motors set to 50% and when running the program both motors would start and one would continue spinning, but the other would stop after only 1 or 2 degrees of rotation.

First I thought it was a problem with the motor, so I replaced it with another motor from another set, but the problem remained. When I switched the ports it was the other motor that would not keep running. I tried different ports, changing the cables and restarting the brick but nothing helped. Checked the rechargeable battery to see if it was a power issue, but that was full. I did this in a class with several other EV3 sets using both large motors and none of the others had this problem.

I then used the programming block for a single large motor and tried both separately and that worked fine. But when I put two of those blocks after each other to start the motors sequentially again the second would not run after an initial click.

When I wanted to troubleshoot it further after I got home everything worked fine, which makes it even stranger. That also suggests it was not the battery box as mentioned in this post.

So I hope maybe someone has seen this before and can tell me why this happened and what to do should it happen again.

Thanks!

EDIT: I found the faulty EV3 (it was number 9, not number 6....). So I was able to do more troubleshooting. Attached a screenshot of the various programs I tried with comments.

It looks like port C is consuming more power than the other ports (motor runs at a significantly higher rpm). And this shuts down any motor running at the same time through one of the other ports. combining two of the other ports (e.g. A and D) works fine.

Any thoughts on how this can happen?

# Answer
Most people with port problems have port C failure. I had similar issue. In my case it was factory defect: SMD chip (U26 on board, see image and HW dev kit pdfs) was soldered with a twist and had two legs broken, but they touched the chip and sometimes signal was getting through. They are used for tacho input. So in some modes when it runs fullspeed it works OK (remote control or built-in motor control), but when it is required to turn for degrees or rotate with a given speed it just spins fullspeed without a stop since it does not getting tacho from the connected motor.

I replaced the chip (74HC2G14GW-G) and now everything works fine. I don't think they solder chips by hands, so it could be some defective batch.
> 4 votes

# Answer
In the mean time Lego has confirmed that the brick was broken and replaced it.
> 2 votes

---
Tags: ev3, motor
---


title: Are these LEGO windows?

text:
# Question
Title: Are these LEGO windows?
I have had these windows in my LEGO collection since the 80's and my mum bought them second hand. They look and feel like Lego but don't have the word LEGO stamped inside the hollow circles on top.

# Answer
These look like "Blue-Box" , a construction toy from Singapore

From inverso.pt

* Blue Box basic elements with a 2X4 LEGO brick on the right

* The inside of a "Blue-Box" construction set
> 6 votes

# Answer
I don't think so; I've seen a lot of old Lego, and I'm fairly sure I've never seen these before.

BrickLink has a window category, and none of the pieces in there match.

Sorry.
> 0 votes

---
Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
---


title: Was "3062oldtile" in any sets?

text:
# Question
Title: Was "3062oldtile" in any sets?
Was the 3062oldtile - Brick, Round 1 x 1 No Bottom Lip or Stud (Tile) in any sets? Bricklink doesn't show it in any sets. Did LEGO sell this part individually a long time ago or is the database merely incomplete here?

# Answer
> 6 votes
This seems to be a prototype / part that was not put in production

Post / Picture by Gary Istok on Eurobricks

---
Tags: set-identification, vintage
---


# Question
Title: Which set does this windshield piece with a hanging green head come from?
This is a windshield piece 2x 4 x 2, 4594. It has a printed green face on it. What set does it come from?

# Answer
> 11 votes
That would be

Part # 4594 : Windscreen 2 x 4 x 2 Vertical with HP Shrunken Head Pattern

from Set # 4755: Knight Bus

---
Tags: part-identification, set-identification
---


# Question
Title: How to get a random value in the Robot Inventor software (Python)
I am making a Python program with the LEGO Robot Inventor software which will, among other things, turn the robot a random amount periodically, which of course requires a random number. However, I could not find any way to do so. Is there any Python function which I could use to get a random number?

# Answer
> 3 votes
Python has this built in. Or is there some reason you can't use it?

# Answer
> 5 votes
Under operators, there is a block "Pick Random" where you can specify to pick an integral number between x to y... x and y you can type... So for a random direction, set it between 0 and 359 degrees ...

---
Tags: programming, spike-prime, robot-inventor, micropython
---


# Question
Title: Feathered Headdress from the Islander, female figure
Is there a way to attach the feathered head dress from the Islander, Female figure to any other headpiece? (I'm trying to make a Vegas showgirl.)

# Answer
> 7 votes
Sometimes ignoring a problem yields its own solution - like the Cabaret Singer.

# Answer
> 1 votes
I would suggest using part 15712 'tile 1x1 with C clip'. Just place that on top of the minifig head and then place the white part in the clip.

You could have used a bar with clip but most if not all minifig heads don't have a fully hollow stud, only solid, or semi-hollow, so the bar would not be able to go all the way down and even if it did the minifigs torso would still probably be in the way.

---
Tags: minifigures, piece-usage
---


# Question
Title: What is this Duplo-like Playmobil bag called?
I bought some random Duplo secondhand and can't figure out what set or name this piece is from/called

# Answer
> 4 votes
With thanks to RSchulz,

This is a Playmobil part

It belongs to : Playmobil 6774 - Garbage truck

---
Tags: part-identification
---


# Question
Title: I found these images of parts and want to find their part numbers
So I found this lot on the internet but don't trust the seller. What I want to do is find the part numbers of the pieces on the image and buy it from a reliable source. I tried to find it in multiple ways but did not succeed. I also intend to use this on future pieces but it's okay if you can provide only the ones on the picture. Lastly the main piece I'm searching for is the first one. Thank you in advance.

# Answer
You can find all of these elements listed on Bricklink under "Technic, Steering" category

Assembled combinations are:

1. Technic, Steering Portal Axle, Housing with Dark Bluish Gray Technic, Steering Wheel Hub 3 Pin Round (92908 / 92909)
2. Technic, Steering Axle with 2 Pin Holes and 2 Axle Holes with Dark Bluish Gray Wheel Hub (23801 / 92909)
3. Technic, Steering Axle with 2 Pin Holes and 2 Ball Joint Arms with Dark Bluish Gray Wheel Hub (11949 / 92909)
4. Technic, Steering Arm with 4 Ball Joints with Black Wheel Hub (x872 / x873)
5. Technic, Steering Axle with 2 Pin Holes with Dark Bluish Gray Wheel Hub (11950 / 92909)
6. No listing as an assembly
7. No listing as an assembly
8. Technic, Steering Axle with 2 Pin Holes with Dark Bluish Gray Steering Wheel Hub 3 Pin Holes Round (11950/ 35189)

These assemblies consist of following individual elements (listed by the time of the first appearance on a picture):

Check out these URLs where you can find which sets each of these elements was included in and you can also purchase ones you need directly on Bricklink.
> 10 votes

---
Tags: part-identification, technic
---


title: Can you identify set from these parts?

text:
# Question
Title: Can you identify set from these parts?
I bought this set too long time ago. But now I can not remember set number so can not assemble. Please help me

# Answer
It seems to be that these elements belong to more than one set.

Polybags with green window shutters are from Doors and Windows (6117)

Polybags containing blue flag and some other elements in Bright Light Orange are from The Lion CHI Temple (70010)
> 6 votes

---
Tags: part-identification, set-identification
---


# Question
Title: How to run 2 motors at the same time in the new EV3 version?
So I've seen a question that solves my problem in an older version, which I don't think is possible in the *Education EV3 Classroom - 1.2.2,* which is the one I'm using. I want to simultaneously run 2 motors at the same time, but in the post for the older version that I saw, It talked about White Technic Bars which I don't believe is in the version that I am using, so I was wondering how to do it. If there is a block that can do this or some sort of sequence of events that can do this, please let me know. Thanks!

# Answer
> 5 votes
If the 2 motors are configured as a drive base, use the pink **move** blocks.

For an arbitrary number of motors or non-drive-base cases, you can use **broadcast** blocks to run things in parallel. Here is an example that shows how to run 4 motors for a specific number of rotations:

---
Tags: ev3, motor
---


title: LEGO selling price

text:
# Question
Title: LEGO selling price
I have a friend who is ready to buy my LEGO, but I still need to set a price. I have about 4kg (8.8lbs) of complete sets (2011 - 2014). Almost all of the 10 are complete. The other half with 4kg are color sorted bricks of all sort. These are mostly sets which I couldn't put together. He will use the bricks for his MOCs anyway. I swing between 150€ and 170€.

# Answer
**Note**. We don't give shopping advice here, since these questions are considered off-topic.

There are many options to consider when buying used bricks or sets.

From general point of view, selling LEGO per weight is always cheaper than sorting all the bricks into sets simply because you don't know what you are getting. Does it contain all the parts for the set X you've mentioned? Does it include rare/costly piece Y of a set Z?

If you managed to sort bricks into sets, then it all depends on the actual set. Most of them will be cheaper than bought new, but some may become more expensive over time. Depending on the market new sets may have discounts up to 50% off RRP or more (usually it is around 20-40% off), so getting more than that is unlikely. Check you local website people use to sell LEGO to have an idea of what your sets could cost.

Then there is also a question about condition. Used and abused bricks aren't popular, unless there is a specific need for them. For example, being a filler pieces deep inside your MOC where nobody is going to see them. Scratches, teeth marks, discoloration all make an impact.

So price can be in the range of 0 - ∞.
> 2 votes

---
Tags: shopping
---


# Question
Title: From what LEGO set is this plastic bag of parts?
Please help to identify this plastic bag of LEGO parts.

# Answer
> 26 votes
This is Hidden Side Newbury Haunted High School 70425

Found looking for Plant Stem, Curved with 2 Thorns and 2 Swirls in Trans-Neon Green on Bricklink (only one with more than 3)

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: I have received a set with a piece which isn't a part of it and I cannot identify it
I feel like I have seen this piece before, yet I also feel like it may not be a Lego piece. I am not sure! I have searched for Bricklink to no avail and it has no number or Lego number on.

# Answer
> 10 votes
It looks like a space gun, part 3959.

---
Tags: part-identification
---


# Question
Title: Remote control for a battery operated train
I have a battery-operated Christmas train and would like to make it remote-controlled but don't know what I need to buy for a transmitter and receiver. Could someone please tell me?

# Answer
**Power Functions**

I understand the train you have is Winter Holiday Train (10254). Luckily, LEGO has already has thought about it and have an option to power up this train. If you still have instructions check the last pages where you can find the list of elements you need (also pictured below) as well as 11 more steps you need to follow to get them installed.

In my opinion, 8879 controller pictured here is way much better than other Power Functions controllers, simply because you only need to set the speed once and train will keep running. Unlike the other types, where you have to keep pushing control toggle to keep your train moving. All of them can be found on Bricklink.

**Powered Up**

Since Power Functions elements are no longer sold by LEGO you have to look for other means of acquiring them new or used. However this system has been superseded by entirely new system called Powered Up. In some way it is even better for trains since you no longer need a place for bulky IR Receiver. You would need following elements to motorize your train with Powered Up:
> 1 votes

# Answer
Over the years, Lego has made many kinds of motors. But for the most recent ones, they sell a remote control receiver which is controlled by a handheld remote control.
> 0 votes

---
Tags: trains
---


# Question
Title: Can Lego Remote Control 88010 control Lego Technic Hub 88012?
I have been exploring the new Bluetooth Technic smart hubs with the Control+ app and PoweredUp app. I would like to also use a physical remote.

I have the Technic smart hubs that come with the Liebherr 9800. I see this hub with different IDs on Bricklink (88012 and bb0961c01).

Will the train remote 88010 work with the Technic smart hubs 88012 aka bb0961c01?

I see this how-to-connect question, but that is to the train hub 88009.

# Answer
> -1 votes
No. I got the 42099 4x4 Off-roader recently, as well as the 60198 Cargo train. The monster truck didn't come with a physical remote, so I needed the app for it, unlike the cargo train which had both remote and app too.

The monster truck used a control system called Control+, while the train used another one called PoweredUP. I already felt it wouldn't work.

It wouldn't. I tried both of my PoweredUP remotes on the truck, but no response. I tried them on both my Cargo Train and Passenger Train and they worked fine. They just didn't work on the monster truck.

And Lego never explicitly told us that they were compatible with eachother.

# Answer
> 3 votes
I got a 42099 4x4 X-treme Off-Roader too, and found that Power UP App (current version is 3.6.0) can connect to the Technic smart hub. Click Bluetooth button in Create Mode, and then press the green button on hub. Enjoy yourself:)

---
Tags: technic, compatibility, remote-control, bluetooth, powered-up
---


# Question
Title: Help identifying piece with slide handles on both ends
I'm trying to build a custom build from YouTube and it contains a piece that I've never seen before. I'm completely stumped. Can anyone identify the brick and part number?

I've attached the image. It's from this video @ 2:17

Any ideas??

# Answer
> 3 votes
It's a battle droid torso, part 30375.

---
Tags: part-identification
---


# Question
Title: EV3Dev Gyro sensor doesn't output values beneath 0
So, basically, my problem is that my Ev3 Gyro Sensor clamps outputs beneath 0 to 0. If I were to rotate my robot clockwise, the gyro rotation would go up, but when I rotate my robot counter-clockwise, it would only go down until it reaches zero, then it stops.
Here is some code that could prove useful:
**Setup of the gyro sensor:**

```
    // Setting up the gyro sensor
    EV3GyroSensor gyro = new EV3GyroSensor(SensorPort.S2);
    gyro.switchMode("GYRO-ANG", 0);
    gyro.reset();

```

**Getting the sample:**

```
    public A[] getSample()
    {
        /** We first assert the mode here. **/
        assertMode();

        SampleProvider sampleProvider = baseSensor.getMode(baseSensor.getCurrentMode());

        float[] input = new float[sampleSize];
        sampleProvider.fetchSample(input, 0);

        @SuppressWarnings("unchecked")
        A[] castedArray = (A[]) Array.newInstance(clazz, sampleSize);

        // Please java. Tell me why I have to convert this to a Float first??!? This should all be done automatically...
        for(int i = 0; i < input.length; i++)
        {
            castedArray[i] = caster.apply(input[i]);
        }

        if(modifier.isPresent())
        {
            for(int i = 0; i < castedArray.length; i++)
            {
                /** Apply modifiers if necessary **/
                castedArray[i] = modifier.get().apply(castedArray[i]);
            }
        }

        return castedArray;
    }

    private void assertMode()
    {
        if(currentMode.isPresent())
        {
            if(System.currentTimeMillis() > (timeToSwitch + timeSinceSwitchCall))
            {
                baseSensor.switchMode(currentMode.get(), 0);
            }
        }
    }

```

Here is the log output:

```
Float value 21.0
Float value 20.0
20
Float value 19.0
Float value 18.0
18
Float value 16.0
Float value 16.0
16
Float value 15.0
Float value 15.0
15
Float value 14.0
Float value 14.0
14
Float value 13.0
Float value 13.0
13
Float value 12.0
Float value 11.0
11
Float value 11.0
Float value 11.0
11
Float value 11.0
Float value 11.0
11
Float value 10.0
Float value 10.0
10
Float value 9.0
Float value 7.0
7
Float value 6.0
Float value 6.0
6
Float value 0.0
Float value 0.0
0
Float value 0.0
Float value 0.0
0
Float value 0.0
Float value 0.0
0
Float value 0.0
Float value 0.0
0
Float value 0.0
Float value 0.0
0
Float value 0.0
Float value 0.0
0
Float value 0.0
Float value 0.0
0
Float value 0.0
Float value 0.0
0
Float value 0.0
Float value 0.0
0
Float value 0.0
Float value 0.0
0
Float value 0.0
Float value 0.0

```

I hope you can help me. Thanks.

# Answer
I'm assuming you are using `ev3dev-lang-java`. It looks like this bug was fixed in v2.6.0. Source.

Make sure you are using the latest version. With your EV3 connected to the Internet, run `sudo apt udpate && sudo apt upgrade`.
> 2 votes

---
Tags: ev3, ev3dev, gyro
---


title: LEGO set names in non-English language?

text:
# Question
Title: LEGO set names in non-English language?
English names can be found easily for nearly all LEGO sets on BrickLink and other sites. However, the sets have names in other languages as well.

Is there an overview of set names in languages other than English? I look for a German translation.

To clarify this question a bit, I rather look for some kind of lists or databases including older sets from the 80's and 90's. So hitting the catalogs is the way I'm currently doing but this way is not very efficiant, but hey: it's a bit beeing a boy in the good old LEGO times... ;-D

So: "No" might be a valid answer as well!

# Answer
> 3 votes
The Lego instructions are available auf Deutsch but you might have to type the set numbers in one at a time in order to see the set names displayed.

For older sets German Catalogs might be available on Brickset to find out the names the "manual" way.

---
Tags: set-database
---


# Question
Title: What is the history of the set numbers of Lego sets through time?
I was wondering how Lego went from a 4 digit code to a complete family and set of products to identify them like the Creator set, the System set...

Of course part of it is their growth but does anyone have more information on how the product code changed throughout the years?

# Answer
There is nice article on Brickset called "The history of 5-digit set numbers". While this article is not a historic information on transformation it is still quite interesting read since it is based on data collected by the website itself.
> 4 votes

---
Tags: set-identification, history, set-database
---


# Question
Title: Any build instructions for vertical Technic/Lego conveyor belts?
I'm trying to figure out how to continuously lift a stream of incoming pieces up vertically, at least 10cm. This is my first real custom build attempt, so I'm very much at a loss on how to go about it. Are there books or sites or other resource likely to contain part lists and build instructions for a vertical conveyor belt?

Only thing I've found so far is this absolutely **delightful** video of The Great Ball Contraption, but while providing lots of inspiration, I don't know enough to reverse engineer it or even really figure out which parts are which.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=jxMMtIxDrGk

I'm starting from scratch on parts, aside from the Educational Mindstorms EV3 base set.

# Answer
You're in luck! Jason at JK BrickWorks has put his instructions online. There are others I've used; I'll hunt for those links, too. He's made multiple Ideas sets, so this might be how Lego officially makes a marble run set, which would be **fantastic**.

Here we go: I've built Brian Alano's wheel lift and Bryan Bonahoom's stackable lift and enjoyed great success with both.

On EuroBricks, there has been a lot of work posted on recreating Akiyuki's modules.
> 6 votes

---
Tags: technic, mindstorms, motor, gbc
---


# Question
Title: Round 2x2 piece that goes underneath plate
I am trying to create a modular building with roofs.

I saw this Youtube video and I would like to know what is the round 2x2 piece mentioned by the author.

https://youtu.be/3oq3XPN8brQ?t=165

What is this piece's name?

Thanks, Benoît

# Answer
> 6 votes
Well, that tile wouldn't go *underneath* a plate. But a 2x2 round plate with rounded bottom has often been used in official sets to allow vehicles (such as boats) to easily slide over carpet, and might be just what you're looking for.

---
Tags: piece-information
---


# Question
Title: What LEGO sets include minifigure with both arms and hands molded together?
I was looking through my collection and found a minifigure torso with the arms and hands molded together. Does anyone know what set a minifigure like this came from?

# Answer
> 3 votes
Torso with the arms and hands molded together sounds to me like the ones released with NBA basketball (so they can throw the balls better?)

A list on Bricklink

# Answer
> 2 votes
Bricklink calls it Torso Legoland (part 17).

---
Tags: minifigures
---


title: 3D printing LDD model

text:
# Question
Title: 3D printing LDD model
I want to 3D print my LEGO models (`.lxf` file type). How do you do it?

Do you export it to a specific file type (there are LXFML, LDraw, and LXFML4 besides LXF) then import into a 3D modeller?

Or is there a way to 3D print directly from LEGO Digital Designer?

Can you save all parts used in the model automatically (not manually by hand, it will be too much work) in a 3D-printable file format then print those parts individually?

I really don't know anything about 3D printing, so please share if you know anything that could help!

# Answer
First, some notes:

* LEGO Digital Designer cannot do 3D printing.
* LDD won't get any new features any time soon, as it is no longer being updated.
* LXF files contain no part meshes. They only contain information on how to assemble the parts. The actual part data is stored in binary files inside the various LIF files.
* LDraw files are similarly structured like the LXF files.

So getting 3D mesh data out of LDD is tricky to say the least. I know of two techniques:

1. There is some software which will attempt to capture 3D mesh from memory. Caveats:

* LDD optimizes the drawing by removing the faces of parts that are not visible.
    * This means the mesh you get out may be missing some things you might expect.
2. Convert to LDraw, and open in an LDraw compatible program that can export 3D meshes. This is probably your better option, but it also has some caveats:

* If you are using a piece that your LDraw program does not have in the library, it will be missing.
    * If LDD does not know how to map a part to LDraw, it could also be missing.

I know some people have done some research into directly converting LDD models directly into 3D mesh, by reverse engineering the file formats. I don't know of any complete tools that actually do this though.

Now for the next issue, once you have your 3D mesh into another program, is it good for printing? Even without knowing specifics, I doubt it. Modelling for 3D printing is a lot different from modelling from LEGO bricks. You would likely have to do a lot of work making the model printable. It would probably be quicker to make the model from scratch in the 3D modelling program directly.
> 7 votes

# Answer
You could try Mecabricks.

1. Login
2. Make model or import it
3. Click export (choose .stl)
> 3 votes

---
Tags: ldd, 3d-printing
---


# Question
Title: Is this translucent blue ramp-like brick from an old Space Explorer set?
Is this brick from an old Space Explorer set? I cannot seem to find a number on it. Any help to link this brick to a particular LEGO set would be much appreciated.

# Answer
> 8 votes
No. It's older than that.

This element has been in 9 sets, in trans-dark blue (as pictured) it has been in 4: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=4228&colorID=14&in=A that bricklink says came out in 1981 and 1983

---
Tags: part-identification, set-identification, space
---


# Question
Title: Are my LEGO Star Wars Royal Guards with black hands counterfeit?
At the current moment due to my camera being busted on my phone and the protective glass on it being shattered my camera can't take anything more than a legit blur.

However I've come here to say the legs have no LEGO stamp on the inside. Nor does the helmet. Its the newer Black gloved Royal Guards. The LEGO stamp is on the neck piece and in-between the leg prongs on top. But no where else.

Also the arms don't have a LEGO stamp, they just say 04-B02 L with a underline. The red plastic even seems a odd tinge of color. I bought them off Bricklink.

If anyone has one of these Royal Guards can they clue me in?

# Answer
That set was produced from around 2009, and anecdotally, we've seen that the LEGO logo wasn't really added to the leg elements until around 2013.

There are also examples of legitimate accessories having no logo on them as well.
> 1 votes

---
Tags: minifigures, star-wars
---


# Question
Title: Am I able to use the Chrome version of the Mindstorm software on a Windows/Mac laptop?
We currently teach Lego robots as part of our Technology curriculum, but we are 1-to-1 in a BYOD environment. So we have all different types of devices the students use including Chromebooks, Windows and MacOS.

Is there a way a Windows (or MacOS) user can use the Chrome app version of Mindstorm software?

I keep getting a message to go do "Lego Downloads" to when I try to open the app in a Chrome browser.

# Answer
> 4 votes
LEGO Education has a new programming software called **EV3 Classroom** that will work on Windows, Mac and Chromebooks that can run Android apps. This is probably the best option for the devices listed but won't work on all Chromebooks. It is available from the LEGO Education download page.

The retired Chrome app only works on Chromebooks.

MakeCode could be an option too.

---
Tags: ev3, software, mac
---


title: Extra Pieces for Lego Gadgets Book

text:
# Question
Title: Extra Pieces for Lego Gadgets Book
My son is having a lot of fun with the Lego Gadget set (book and bricks), but he can only build one thing at a time, and would love to have a lot more of the types of Lego bricks that came with the Gadget set. I looked on the Lego website in the "Pick a Brick" section, and wasn't able to find these bricks. Does anyone know where I can find extra Lego Gadget bricks without having to buy more of the full book/bricks set? Thanks!

# Answer
> 4 votes
Rebrickable has inventory of elements included with this book. This website has also an options to add these elements to wanted list for Bricklink as well as BrickOw. Each element has links to both websites (Bricklink and BrickOwl) so use the one you prefer to acquire elements you actually need.

Once you know the element you need you could also buy them directly from LEGO via "Bricks & Pieces" found on LEGO Support page. Although it is a bit slightly more complicated since book doesn't have a set number and you have to look up each element individually.

# Answer
> 3 votes
You could buy extra parts on Bricklink or Brickowl

for example

# Answer
> 2 votes
BrickLink!

Unfortunately, BrickLink doesn't currently list an inventory of exactly what pieces are included with that book. So you'll have to search for **Technic liftarm** or **Technic gear** and the like separately.

If you let us know what pieces you are particularly in need of, we can help create a wish list, which will allow you to find the cheapest store(s) (or perhaps the store(s) near you) with all those pieces.

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Tags: gears
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title: Bag 3 identification help!

text:
# Question
Title: Bag 3 identification help!
I have bag #3 with 539R7 underneath it. The plastic bag has 135149 which indicates it’s from 2011. The bag has red, black, and dark grey pieces along with 6 wheels.

Any help would be appreciated.

# Answer
According to BrickLink, 60183 Heavy Cargo Transport seems to be the only set that has all of
> 2 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Program just stops motors and won't move
I'm trying to make a program in the NXT software that turns on the motors unlimited, then waits until something is less than 30 cm, stops the motors, turns to the left 30 degrees and saves the value of the ultrasonic sensor as `L` and then turns to the right 30 degrees and saves the value as `R`. Then it compares both values and if `R` is more than `L` then it goes forward indefinitely otherwise it turns 30 degrees to the left and then continues. I can't seem to make a program that does that. Every time I test my program it just stops the motors and moves when I put my hand in front of it and then it just stops again. This is what I've tried. TestTest.rbt

# Answer
> 1 votes
I had to add an unlimited block

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Tags: nxt, programming, motor, nxt-g
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# Question
Title: Can you tell me which LEGO set number this is?
I bought this Lego set off the internet and I can’t figure out the set number. Can someone tell me the set number?

# Answer
> 12 votes
As @mindstormsboi pointed out, it's a modification of 60009-1 Helicopter Arrest

According to BrickLink, the only sets with both those RBrown stairs and the 100 tile are:

* 10218-1 Pet Shop
* 10232-1 Palace Cinema
* 10246-1 Detective's Office
* 10255-1 Assembly Square
* 10264-1 Corner Garage
* 41108-1 Heartlake Food Market
* 60009-1 Helicopter Arrest
* 60069-1 Swamp Police Station
* 60130-1 Prison Island

and that doesn't look **exactly** like any of them. But if you remove 60009's vehicles and pier and add a few bits, it's a good match.

I won't say **never**, but Lego doesn't often (that I know of) sell sets with treasure chests where the lid doesn't match the base. But @Zhaph - Ben Duguid noted that 60009 does.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: What tool can get the Technic pin out from a connection closed in the other end?
I'm having trouble removing these LEGO Technic pins apart from their connectors and I don't want to use carpenter tools like pliers which may damage the bricks.

What tool can get the pieces separated without force that damages the pieces or my fingers?

# Answer
Push the Technic pin in a beam hole, then insert a rod (antenna or minifig tool handle) into the hole in the pin from the other side. The rod will prevent the "lips" of the pin from closing in, therefore preventing the pin from leaving the beam. Then you can pull on anything attached to the other end of the pin.

This example below shows the removal of a pin from a beam:
> 18 votes

# Answer
I figured out a solution while waiting for answers. The tool I used for it was a universal T20 bit which most people have or can easily get access to. I took some documenting pictures of it which I would like to share here.

EDIT: Use a plastic LEGO rod as *zovits* and others recommend. If you don't have that, use metal tools as a last resort. And if using a metal tool, use **Allen** a.k.a. **Hex** key instead of **Torx**. as *PlasmaHH* commented.
> 9 votes

# Answer
Stick the pin end into a Technic hole (like in the middle of those two red bits), then stick a light saber rod into the pin, and pull the red bit.

BOOM.
> 6 votes

# Answer
I recently noticed that LEGO included guidance on this exact issue in their instructions in the late 80s and early 90s. Here's an example from the 1989 Universal Building Set (8034):

Here's the bit referring to disassembling these sorts of elements:
> 4 votes

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Tags: technic, disassembly, tools
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# Question
Title: Who can use "LEGO Official Store" for an online LEGO store?
Recently I visited a LEGO shop on an e-commerce platform, mainly for local market in Vietnam, what caught my eyes was the shop name: "LEGO Official Store". Although there was no information about this shop, I found out later that this shop owned by Viet Tinh Anh (VTA) - a company claims themselves as an "exclusive LEGO distributor" in Vietnam.

I have thought that only LEGO can use "LEGO Official Store" e.g. they said here "We also sell directly through LEGO Shop and our LEGO Stores (the official LEGO shops)." but not their wholesaler/distributor, is it correct?

More information, VTA (aforementioned distributor) actually is also a retailer and has their own brand name for their toy stores (brick and mortar) as My Kingdom. They sell toys from many brands, not just LEGO, so I'm sure they cannot use this name for stores on the street. But can they use it for an online shop that only sells LEGO products?

# Answer
As far as I am aware there are 3 types of LEGO stores:

1. Owned and operated by TLG.
2. Licenced by TLG to 3rd party to operate under LEGO brand. In this group (most likely) your official region distributor may have a shop dedicated to LEGO brand only, however it doesn't offer benefits of official shops operated by TLG. Mainly the VIP points. Company owning such shop(s) could have other toy related shops operated under different (non LEGO) names.
3. Shops operated without proper license and guidance as mentioned in this post on LAN from 2017. Cannot really tell much as I have not encountered this type.

My understanding second type could also be called "Official LEGO Store" since it follows strict TLG requirements and recommendations. If you are not very much into this hobby you may not even recognize, that this kind isn't operated by TLG.
> 6 votes

# Answer
LEGO has some arrangements in Asia (I think currently it's only in Asia, but I don't think anyone has said it can't be done elsewhere), where third parties get a permission/license to call stores official.
> 9 votes

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Tags: lego-group, terminology, lego-store
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title: EV3 .py to .rbf?

text:
# Question
Title: EV3 .py to .rbf?
So, I need to send an `rbf` file from my computer to e-mail for a tournament. I'm currently using python with the ev3 microPython setup and vscode. The question is, where or how can I get the `rbf` file from a `.py` code?

# Answer
> 1 votes
I don't think an .rbf file is ever generated, the microPython engine installed on the flash disk interprets and executes the .py file directly. .rbf files were executable files generated by the EV3 software, i.e. either the graphic programming language in the old version (with blocks you needed to draw) or the scratch based new software. I think you should contact the tournament organizers and ask if a .py file is acceptable...

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Tags: ev3, python
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