# Question
Title: How do LEGO Technic pneumatics parts age?
I recently bought LEGO Technic 8868 (Air Tech Claw Rig) and 8460 (Pneumatic Crane Truck) models. I noticed that the pneumatics tubes seem to have been changed since the colors are different from the instructions manual.

Since these models are respectively 24 and 21 years old, a possible explanation is that the original tubes have been lost.

But it may also be due to aged tubes that needed to be changed. How do tubes change when they're ageing? Do they become less flexible and break when they're failing? What is the lifespan of these tubes?

It looks like the pneumatic cylinder, pumps and valves have not been changed and they still work. So I think that they can last longer than tubes.

# Answer
The tubes generally age very well and I have never experienced a problem with them (I have had several of these sets over the years).

I would double check that the pump is working correctly and you have definitely not got a poor connection somewhere (a leak).

Double check also for blockages in the hard plastic dark old grey connecting tubes that are clipped on and the 'T's. These have a smaller inner diameter than the rubber tube and would be the first to get a blockage if something has got in to the system.

If you are certain its a tube problem you can buy replacement tube online. I would carefully double check for another problem before buying tube as the tube rarely fails unless it has been exposed to chemicals or a lot of sunlight.
> 2 votes

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Tags: technic, storage
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# Question
Title: Is there an alternative replacement motor piece for 4.5 V Trains?
Is it possible to find on a market a simple 4.5V electric motor, that can be installed into LEGO Part 564c01?

The service pack No. 5000 is more and more difficult to find.

# Answer
> 1 votes
First, check the assembly is correctly greased - they can throw a lot of sqeak out if they are needing a little grease even if the motor is fine!

I have looked in to this myself, but the cost and trouble just isn't worth it - you can buy a used working unit for around £8 to £12 from a used / vintage Lego parts site.

These motors are really good quality and almost last forever if looked after, so chances are you will get your £8 - £12 worth from a quality used one - regular off-the-shelf motors cost anywhere from £4 - £8 and that's if you can get a perfect size and voltage match not to mention getting the drive gear to fit it etc. Stick with buying a using original motor/full assembly and check it is suitably greased and looked after it

I have lots of Lego train sets and that was my answer to non-working motors. I look after them well, and they just keep going!

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Tags: motor, trains
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# Question
Title: What LEGO Power Functions parts do I need to make an RC car?
I'd like to make a remote control car with steering and forward/back functionality.

Looking at the LEGO Power Functions parts I'm assuming I need the following:

1. A battery box (8881 or 8878)
2. A motor for drive (8883, 888003, 7772)
3. A servo for the steering (88004)
4. A IR receiver (8884)
5. A IR remote (8885)
6. Some Extension Cables? (8871, 8886)

But I'm not sure how the IR remote is configured to control the motor/servo or whether I need an IR receiver (8884) per motor/servo, or whether I'm missing another part.

What Power Functions parts do I need to make a LEGO remote control car?

# Answer
Your assumptions appear to be mostly correct. Just for clarity, these are the minimum parts required:

1. A battery box
2. A motor for driving
3. A motor for steering (unless you want to try a steer-on-reverse single motor design)
4. An IR receiver (these can support two motors each)
5. An IR remote

Extension cables and/or lights are optional depending on the design of your vehicle.
> 6 votes

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Tags: technic, power-functions, remote-control
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# Question
Title: How can I make an EV3 vehicle follow an elliptic equation?
Has anyone succeeded in having the EV3 driving base moving following an ellipse? I would like the kids to think about how would we program a satellite orbiting around earth.

They would input the equation for the ellipse and then they will have the robot driving around it. Any thoughts?

# Answer
I think it would be more realistic to have the robot drive in a straight line but have a linkage to the foci of the ellipse that "pulls" the robot towards the center of the ellipse just as orbiting objects are pulled toward Earth by gravity.

For example, you could use two nails in a board as the foci. Tie a string in a loop to use as the linkage. Place the string loop around the nails and attach to the side of the robot. Drive the robot forwards (no steering). It will travel in an ellipse. You could even attach a pen to the robot to draw the ellipse.
> 5 votes

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Tags: ev3, programming
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# Question
Title: What set(s) are these 2x2 hexagon bricks from?
I've inherited quite a few interesting pieces from relatives who outgrew LEGO. Any idea what set(s) these came in? They don't have any numbers so I can't look them up on pick-a-brick or anything.

# Answer
You have the following pieces:

1. 6037 - Brick, Modified Octagonal 2 x 2 x 3 1/3

2. 6043 - Brick, Modified Octagonal 2 x 2 x 3 1/3 Corner

3. 6042 - Brick, Modified Octagonal 2 x 2 x 3 1/3 with Side Studs

4. 6032 - Brick, Modified Octagonal 2 x 3 x 1 2/3 Sloped

These were used in about 10-15 sets during a brief period from 1995-1998, most of them in the Aquazone theme, but some made their way into other themes as well (e.g. Castle).
> 5 votes

# Answer
Those are modified octagonal bricks numbers 6037, 6042, 6043, and 6032.

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?pg=3&catString=7&catType=P

The blue corner pieces (6043) are only from set 6190-1 Shark's Crystal Cave

The others are likely from the 2162-1 Hydro Reef Wrecker
> 5 votes

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Tags: piece-information, part-identification
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# Question
Title: How to run "Power Functions" devices from an electric wall plug?
In this video showing an example of Great Ball Contraption (GBC), we can see (at 1:35) that some trains powers are used to run *Power Functions* motors:

>

That must be more convenient than having to change batteries after several hours.

---

**What parts are involved, from the electric wall plug to the final motor?**

I guess that the following parts are used:

1. **Power Adaptor** (70931) plugged on wall plug, that provide current through a wire connected to…
2. **Train Speed Regulator 9V** (2868b) that outputs current through 9V plugs
3. a **Power Functions Extension Wire** connected on 9V plug that provide a *Power Functions*-specific plug (8886)
4. *any Power Functions* motor, e.g **L motor**:

Are my guesses correct?

If I remember correctly, I have already seen in some videos that the *Technic Control Center II* (2840c02) was used in place of Train Speed Regulator. Does it work too?

The *Train Speed Regulator 9V* are *Technic Control Center II* are incredibly cheap, are they the cheaper way to power devices from an electric wall plug? The *Power Adaptor* is relatively expensive, but it's probably possible to find a cheaper and compatible adaptor.

# Answer
What you describe is indeed the most common way to GBC modules, but it's worth noting that one adaptor+regulator can typically power more modules (it depends on the modules), sometimes only one end of the extension cable is used, when placed on the regulator, it effectively provides a power functions "plug", and if you want to power more modules, the wiring can get a little easier to handle, when every module is essentially connected to a regulator.

Another option is an NXT with the official rechargable battery mounted and an adaptor plugged in, and then of course NXT cables to an NXT motor (I don't remember if NXT-\>PF cables exists, but NXT-\>9V cables does and you have mentioned that the PF extension cables can attach to 9V). I have also seen modules with an RCX, I think that has a plug for an adaptor directly, but I'm not sure, I don't think I've seen GBC modules powered by EV3's yet, but there's probably a solution. - Probably more expensive, but having an NXT in a module allows other possibilities, especially if you also put in some sensors.

As Mr. Shiny and New 安宇 mentions the rechargable battery box is a third solution.

All of these solutions have the advantage that they only use official unmodified LEGO parts.
> 6 votes

# Answer
I just happened to finish a homemade solution to this problem a few days ago — so while I can say this works, it isn't exactly long-tested. I made **an adapter to connect a 9V power source to the battery contacts in a regular Power Functions battery box.**

* The trickiest part is making the connection to the positive terminal of the battery box (which is a recessed flat contact as opposed to a spring). There are lots of ways the details of this could be handled, depending on the materials and tools available. I used two AAA-to-AA battery size adapters that I had on hand — for this purpose, they're just battery-shaped plastic objects with contacts on the ends. One of them has only the negative end connected, and the other has only the positive end.

(Perhaps there are LEGO parts that could be used instead? 2×2 cylinder bricks are a bit too large…)
* Hook up these two “dummy batteries” to your power adapter. (If your power adapter has a barrel plug and you don't want to chop it off, that may be the because you need a matching jack. I just bought a surplus adapter and cut the plug off.)
* The two “batteries” go into the “endmost” slots in the battery box — these are the two that are closest to (negative end) and farthest from (positive end) the switch, paying attention to the zigzag shape of the two sides of the box. These are the two slots that are actually wired to the switch and output; the rest are just to make connections between six separate cells, which we don't need.

Materials used in this particular build:

* Two AAA-to-AA adapters, with holes made in the sides for the wire.
* Wooden dowel, to fill out the interior space, with a groove cut in the side to make room for the wire.
* Spring, at non-contact end.
* Ordinary brass thumbtack, pressed into the contact end of the dowel.
* Wire, soldered to the inside of the tack.

There are surely much less complicated ways to do this, such as not bothering with the plastic adapter, though then you need to be more precise about making things the right size.

Pros of this method:

* Cheap if you have the right materials on hand.
* You get the reverse/off switch and overload protection circuit that's in the battery box (unlike, say, cutting a Power Functions wire to make direct connections, which would also *work*).
* No bulky speed control box if you don't need it.
* The same adapter can power an old-style 9V battery box, a Mindstorms brick, or anything else taking 6 AAs.

Cons of this method:

* Not an official LEGO power adapter.
* Might be stressing the battery box due to long-term higher voltage than AA batteries under load.
* You get no speed control (if that's something you care about).
* Ugly; you have a battery box with the covers taken off.
> 5 votes

# Answer
I've heard that the rechargeable battery box sold by LEGO can power a motor while it is plugged in and charging. If your motor is in a stationary position, this could be sufficient.

I've also read, in customer reviews on the LEGO website, that it is possible to daisy-chain power-function devices to the old 9V motors, however, I'm not quite sure what is required for that.
> 2 votes

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Tags: technic, motor, trains, power-functions, gbc
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# Question
Title: Cheapest and Simplest way to build a LEGO Technic car?
Having no LEGO Technic parts at all, I'm looking for the cheapest and simplest way to build a LEGO Technic car which can be combined with two Lego Technic motors to drive forward and backward (phase 1) and to steer to left and right (phase 2).

I see two possibilities:

* Buy a complete LEGO Technic product (which one can you recommend?)
* Get all the parts needed online (which parts do I need?)

I would like to combine the two motors with my Raspberry Pi.

# Answer
I think your best bet is to start with 42048 Technic Race Kart and a 8293 Power Functions bundle. This gives you just one motor, but that's enough for propulsion (going back and forth).

You would need to look into a motor driver board (for example the DRV8835) for the motor, and look at schematics for a power functions cable mod to be able to drive the motor directly from the RPi - see this question for several suggestions on how to do this..

For steering you can look into a 88004 Servo Motor, or use a normal Medium motor with extremely fine control or a good set of gears to be able to make small steering adjustments.
> 4 votes

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Tags: technic, building, motor
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# Question
Title: What's the exact opacity and translucency of transparent bricks?
As answered in this question, transparent bricks are made of PC (polycarbonate) and as listed in this answer and on Brickipedia there are fourteen transparent colors:

```
40  Transparent (clear)
41  Transparent Red
42  Transparent Light Blue
43  Transparent Blue
44  Transparent Yellow
47  Transparent Fluorescent Reddish-Orange (Transparent Dark Orange)
48  Transparent Green
49  Transparent Fluorescent Green (Transparent Neon Green)
111 Transparent Brown (Smoke)
113 Transparent Medium Reddish-Violet
126 Transparent Bright Bluish-Violet
143 Transparent Fluorescent Blue
182 Transparent Bright Orange
311 Transparent Bright Green

```

I am interested in the exact optical properties Transparency and translucency of this colors. How much percentage of light is absorbed? Has anyone measured with a prism which wavelength gets filtered out for each color?

P.S.: Why do I want to know? I want to put different kinds of LEDs in transparent bricks and like to know how the light is influenced. There are LEDs in different colours (light temperature) and one can calculate the luminosity at specific voltage and current. I'd like to calculate the luminosity as modified by the polycarbonate which the LEDs are put into.

# Answer
> 2 votes
I have a couple friends in the LEGO company, so I asked one of the guys behind piece creation about this. It turns out that *TLC itself* doesn't have this information.

The problem is, lab-testing the exact opacity and light absorption depends on certain ideal conditions. These conditions, like for any test, require the material to be identical in every way to the other materials except for the tested variable.

But there is no piece that comes in every color! And even worse, each batch varies slightly from the others. TLC's QA department is good, but not *that* good.

So while this is certainly a worthy concept to test, you will likely find that your own results will be the most thorough ones you can get. I recommend that you personally do whatever you need to find your answer, and maybe tell us in a comment or on chat what you found!

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Tags: piece-information, colour
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title: Bag 2, 2011 set, ID 135149

text:
# Question
Title: Bag 2, 2011 set, ID 135149
Can anyone identify this bag? It has in it what looks like the grill of a truck, or skis!

Blue jacket, fearful face, gray round piece. Mainly black blue and white. 2011 printed on bag.

# Answer
Set #75915-1: Jurassic World Pteranodon Capture
> 6 votes

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Tags: building, instructions, set-identification
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# Question
Title: How to create a LEGO Technic tank steering system
I found this video containing a steering system for tracked vehicles. Are there any steering system(s) that are more simple than the one shown in the video, and include a guide (in LDD or pictures format) to replicate for a tracked vehicle, such as a tank?

# Answer
> 6 votes
The simplest method would be to just have two motors, with one motor driving each side of track.

To go forward, both motors forward; backward both back; to turn set one motor to go faster than the other, only drive one side, or set one forward and the other backward. It is a fairly common treaded vehicle steering system.

The linked system with dual differentials, a drive motor, and a control motor, seems quite excessive to me.

However, it come with some cost as the system move without feedback, it's unlikely that both motors will be driven at the exact same speed. Variations in the build (e.g. how tight bushings are) and the motors (torque curves) means that it'll generally drive in a (large) circle unless you actively correct for it. To make it move relatively straight, it involves a lot of fiddling with loosening / tightening parts, and even then one may often find that it no longer drives straight on a different surface.

With a dual-differential drive, there's generally enough friction that it will indeed drive "exactly" straight when the drive motor is on - and if it doesn't, one can just add a bit of friction (e.g. clamped bushings around a stud) to the control motor to make it drive straight.

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Tags: steering, tracked-vehicle
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# Question
Title: How steep a grade can a LEGO train go up?
I realize this would change based on how much weight it's pulling. How about using an engine pulling 3 cars? I'm guessing that sets available for sale now would have similar power. I have the engines from sets 60052 and 60098. Thanks for any input you can provide.

# Answer
I've successfully run a single motor pulling two cars from 7938 and the locomotive all the cars from 79111 up a spiraling incline of two plates per track segment. I terminated the experiment after I ran out of track and table space. If the track was straight I probably could have pulled more weight.
> 4 votes

# Answer
Anecdotal input:

I run my 7745, 7740, 7735 (with extra carriages), 4458 (with 2 clubcars), 4563 and 4564 up a 14 brick total height using 16 sections of straight track. On the main sections this is one brick per 16 long track section but at the top and the bottom I smooth out the incline with 2 plates and then 1 plate. (Otherwise the carriages, especially the club cars, bottom out on the track).

These are 12v and 9v models and not the Power Functions models you list so your motor and track characteristics are likely to be different. Space limitations are the reason I use such a steep incline and I do have to make sure I keep the electrical contacts clean to ensure constant power delivery or I can get some slipping and wheelspins.

Also this is likely putting a fairly heavy load on the motors, luckily I have spares and I don't run my trains for long periods of time but I don't run my 7727 on this section of track for fear of damaging it's precious red motor!

I think this is the absolute steepest you could get away with and if you have the space, two plates or one plate per track section as suggested here and in other places on the web should be your goal.
> 0 votes

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Tags: trains
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title: Where can I create a custom figure?

text:
# Question
Title: Where can I create a custom figure?
So while it is nerdy, I want to create the Call of Duty: Zombies characters out of LEGO in real life to play with or model. But I can't find any sites where I can create them. Can someone help?

# Answer
Try Minifigs.me! It allows for creation using almost every part, plus custom parts.

Also try BrickLink, which has a catalogue of nearly every LEGO piece in existence. (For sale!)
> 0 votes

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Tags: minifigures, customization
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title: Information on the new Death Star

text:
# Question
Title: Information on the new Death Star
Is there any additional information, such as price, piece count, appearance or minifigures for the upcoming LEGO death star? Leaked, announced or rumored answers are acceptable.

# Answer
> 1 votes
The only information available as of today is the set number. It is #75159. No other rumors or leaked info is available. The speculation is that it will likely be based on the new movie, but even this is simply a speculation, not even a rumor.

# Answer
> 1 votes
It's an update of the previous minifigure-based Death Star, according to reliable hints. It certainly is not a pure UCS model Death Star as many have hoped for.

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Tags: star-wars
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# Question
Title: Where can I download the LEGO RCX 2.0 programming software for Windows 7?
Can someone point me to an active download location of the RCX 2.0 programming software for Windows 7? Thanks!

# Answer
> 1 votes
Use this link for RCX/expansion packs and run the program(s) in compatibility mode: https://www.mediafire.com/folder/718o6673jhpn9/RIS

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Tags: software, rcx
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title: NXT shuts down in 5 minutes

text:
# Question
Title: NXT shuts down in 5 minutes
I have an NXT brick that will always shut down after 5 minutes. No, it is not the sleep timer. Documentation from the NXT Hardware SDK, page 17, states that if the ARM7 processor does not send back communication to the AVR microcontroller within 5 minutes of power up, it will shut down the ARM7. Here is the message: "\xCC" "Let's samba nxt arm in arm, (c) LEGO System A/S"

Has anyone had a 5 minute shut down problem not solved by resetting the sleep timer and have you solved it?

# Answer
I did not have that problem but I checked that error from programmer's perspective. The source seems to originate here athough it can be also found mirrored on GitHub where the complete package can be downloaded. After short analysis of few files it looks that the message you quoted is sent on re-initialized link (connection). The link is reinitialized automatically if its state is either uninitialized or failed.

If you can observe *exactly the same* time till each failure, then it looks this can be rather software issue than a hardware one. It can be still related to what you wrote in the question (one end of the link shut down after 5 minutes) or it can be related to some other software-based conditions. Try with trivial scenarios first. Also ensure that the firmware of all involved devices is up-to-date.
> 1 votes

# Answer
I finally figured this out... It's broken!

Fried. Saw one do this after getting dropped. Never worked correctly again.

Sorry, man. Buy a new one, I guess. Nothing to be done here.
> 0 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, nxt
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# Question
Title: NXT Program doesn't do what it's supposed to do
Ok, so I have this automatic gearbox I have made and I have 2 motors and 2 touch sensors

I want Motor A to spin forever unless Motor B is turning

Motor B should turn around 15 degrees and then brake. The direction depends on what touch sensor is pushed. I created this piece of block code thing (personally don't like) but it looks like it should work but it doesn't.

Motor A spins forever and when B is activated, it spins forever too completely destroying the gearbox :(

Pseudo Code:

```
If Touch1 == Bumped Then
    Stop MotorB
    Rotate MotorA by 15 degrees
Else If Touch2 == Bumped Then
    Rotate MotorA by -15 degrees
    Stop MotorB
Else
    Rotate MotorB Forever

(I know this is horrrible pseudo code but you get the jist)

```

What am I doing wrong???

# Answer
> 1 votes
You just need to make the blocks match your pseudo code. The missing part is "Stop Motor B". Adding blocks to stop motor B will help.

Also, stop motor B needs to be before starting motor A, otherwise motor A will run while motor B is running.

```
If Touch1 == Bumped Then
    Stop MotorB
    Rotate MotorA by 15 degrees
Else If Touch2 == Bumped Then
    Stop MotorB
    Rotate MotorA by -15 degrees
Else
    Rotate MotorB Forever

```

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Tags: nxt, motor, nxt-g
---


title: Identification of light and sound part

text:
# Question
Title: Identification of light and sound part
Found the following car/space craft body this weekend. It takes two AA batteries and has three buttons for different sounds and light sequences. It is marked k8. The part is about six inches long, has LEGO embedded on proper spots but no part number. I can send a picture if anyone has an idea. Thank you for the responses it is exactly what is shown in the first answer, and inspectors body. Now I know. Next time I will work on imbeddong a pic. Ted

# Answer
> 5 votes
Sounds like electric, light & sound 4 x 20 x 5 insectoid stinger.

Part# top: x239top
Part# bottom: x239bottom

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Tags: piece-information, part-identification
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title: HELP ! Darth Maul stuck in glue?

text:
# Question
Title: HELP ! Darth Maul stuck in glue?
Not so long ago I got my hands on a box full of loose bricks. There I found an old minifigure head of Darth Maul BUT stuck in his hood! I'm 100% sure it's glue. Is there anything I can do about it ?

# Answer
> 4 votes
To paraphrase an answer from @awe on a similar question,

> You can use some sugar liquid as temporary glue to make the head stuck to the torso. Wait until the sugar is sticky and then pull off the helmet. Once the helmet is loose, put the head and torso in warm water to remove the sugar glue.

Depending on the glue attaching the hood to the head, you might need to use some other water-soluble glue in place of sugar water glue.

---
Tags: star-wars, glue
---


# Question
Title: Identify a space LEGO set from incomplete model
Could someone help me find out which sets these are from please?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/clouddrive/share/manpK0pmTJUynGo8X3P5iBqpYEEIdjnO9Ol2t3dhdNR?v=grid&ref\_=cd\_ph\_share\_link\_copy

https://www.amazon.co.uk/clouddrive/share/0d8gUy7oMWYN3Z3XiOYGYe8XJojtyCSzWVYKeEC39hV?v=grid&ref\_=cd\_ph\_share\_link\_copy

# Answer
> 7 votes
These are

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Tags: set-identification, space
---


# Question
Title: Need help identifying this Star Wars set from about 2005, white and dark red triangle ship?
I need help identifying this Star Wars set. It was probably released about 2005. The complete kit is about 11 inches long:

# Answer
> 4 votes
It's a dusty 7143 from 2002, but the minifigure is not there.

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Tags: set-identification, star-wars
---


# Question
Title: How can I emulate this wheel from the mowing unit of a ride-on mower?
I am trying to build a model of a specific ride-on mower with Lego and I cannot find a satisfying solution for the wheels supporting the mowing unit.

This is what they look like on the original:

Note that the bottom of the wheel is below the bottom line of the unit that it supports.

The scale on which I am working and my best solution so far is this (the front part):

The wheel nicely extends below the structure it supports, but:

* horizontally, it extends rather far from the structure,
* it builds up quite high vertically,
* the construction is not very robust.

Thus my question is: What other part or combination of parts could I use to emulate this wheel? I prefer if the required parts are easily available in red, but I appreciate other suggestions as well, as I may have missed something that I can do with the parts at hand.

# Answer
My first thought would be to try and build this using 2x 32017 - Technic Liftarm 5 Thin and the following combination of a 1/2 bush and a tire (same tire you have on the wheel on the black part of your build, though the front tire might fit too).

If you use a 2L axle (in red!) this should look quite sleek. Not sure if the tire is going to be tall enough to support the mower, but it would definitely be sturdy, given that you're using Technic.
> 6 votes

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Tags: building, design, moc
---


# Question
Title: What is the minimum required set of parts for Mindstorms?
I'm interested in trying a second-hand Mindstorms kit, but can't afford the full kit. It doesn't need to be the latest version, either. If compatible with my computer, RCX would do.

Is it possible to learn the basics from a subset of parts from the kit? If so, is there a recommended set of parts to do so?

# Answer
I would get the NXT brick itself, at least one but preferably two motors, and the touch sensor.

Obviously, you need a brain brick, but you also need a way for it to do something, thus the motors. And if you want to do anything particularly interesting, that doesn't need to be automatic functions only, you'll need a sensor to start different functions at the proper times and in the proper conditions.

You could expand a little by adding the motion detector, but mostly you just need an input, output, and brain.
> 3 votes

# Answer
I would suggest at least one sensor. Of course you can program the brick (which version ever) with a motor or two. But that are very limited programs. If you have a sensor, you can create programs that can interact with the environment.

Which sensor is irrelevant in my opinion. For example one touch sensor or an infrared/ultrasonic sensor.
> 3 votes

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Tags: mindstorms
---


# Question
Title: Where can I download the EV3 education edition software for free?
I have a site license but I'm not able to find the download for the software anywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

# Answer
According to an education Community Manager you should have received a link when you purchased the licence.

If you didn't receive one you should contact your reseller - it depends on which region you are in as to whether logging in to the LEGO education site would enable a direct link for you.
> 4 votes

# Answer
https://education.lego.com/en-us/support

You have to be logged in with your credentials, then click the download button.
> 3 votes

# Answer
The software for the LEGO Education version of the EV3 needs a license (either a single license or a site license). AFAIK, all EV3 Education purchases come with a Software License, which also includes instructions on where to download the software.

There is nothing preventing you from using the retail (non-Education) version of the software though, which is a free download from http://www.lego.com/en-us/mindstorms/downloads/download-software. It might prompt you to update the firmware on your EV3 to the "Home" version (currently v1.09H) but you can always switch back to the "Education" version (currently v1.09E).
> 3 votes

# Answer
Please try this link and choose the software you want http://www.lego.com/en-us/mindstorms/downloads/software/ddsoftwaredownload/
> 1 votes

# Answer
If not yet had a license: Try download at this site but it will cost you RM2120 (if you're rich)...: http://lego.sasbadi.com/product-details.php?id=46&type=robotics&iframe=true&width=900&height=510

If already bought: Just follow the link at the license and enter the codes!(might need to make an account for the web)
> 1 votes

# Answer
You can download the Education Edition for the LEGO Mindstorms EV3 here (footer of the page). It is available for free.

You only need a valid LEGO ID for a login. If you haven't a LEGO ID you can create one on the linked page.
> 1 votes

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Tags: ev3, software, education
---


title: Can anyone identify this set?

text:
# Question
Title: Can anyone identify this set?
https://www.gumtree.com/p/other-baby-stuff/various-bits-of-lego-all-for-%C2%A35/1183678235

Can anyone identify this set? Is it even genuine LEGO?

# Answer
> 10 votes
Welcome! This collection of pieces might contain *some* LEGO pieces, but is mostly another brand. The bottoms of the bricks and plates have patterns that are not typical for LEGO, and LEGO does not make a large wedge plate like the light-grey one on the right. Furthermore, LEGO did never make a large tree stump and tree with face as shown in the middle of the picture. As such, even though the seller claims this is "LEGO", it is not.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Where can I find a copy of read_binvox.cc
Can you upload your read\_binvox.cc please?

I tried to find out some on the net but at each time I would like to paste the program on my code blocks the program had an error (0xc000007b).

# Answer
This software is now available here:

http://www.patrickmin.com/binvox/read\_binvox.cc
> 1 votes

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Tags: software
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# Question
Title: I have a LEGO instruction book with the front identifying page missing. I am trying to work out which set it is. Yellow and black sea plane and boat
The LEGO set looks like a Creator set, mainly yellow bricks with many different small builds. Biplane, Speed boat, submarine, vehicle ferry, yacht, oil tanker. The photo of page 3 is attached.

Any ideas?

# Answer
> 6 votes
These instructions are from 4505-1: Sea Machines

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Tags: set-identification, creator
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# Question
Title: Where can I obtain the software called “Instructor”?
The instructions on JK Brickworks state (boldface mine):

> Publishing was done using **Instructor version 1.6**

However, if I search the Internet, the only pertinent results are the aforementioned instructions and the creator of that site does not provide any means to contact him to ask.

Where can I learn more about this software or obtain it? Is it known under another name?

# Answer
An older version (1.4) of Instructor is advertised in this forum post and can be downloaded here.

As you can see on the Google+ post, the differences between 1.4 and 1.6 are mostly cosmetic.
> 1 votes

# Answer
It seems Instructor is actually being developed by JK Brickworks themselves, according to this Google+ post. Your best option would be asking them directly, as there is no download link on their website.
> 3 votes

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Tags: software, instructions
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# Question
Title: Help identifying which set this bag is from? White plates and Technic panels and transparent red circle plates?
Can anyone help to identify the set that is shown in the photos? They were in a bulk lot of LEGO - so no manuals, no box.

Thanks! Dale

# Answer
Given the transparent red Plate, Round 4 x 4 with 2 x 2 Hole, white plates, and trans-blue Windscreen this is set# 76028 Darkseid Invasion from the Justice League series.
> 5 votes

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification
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# Question
Title: What set is this LEGO pack from? Grey pieces with 10x10 octagonal plates in grey and green?
I need to know what set this LEGO pack is from as my friend gave me his packets but without the box and manual and said he lost it.

# Answer
LEGO Kingdoms - King's Castle 7946.

I see the green and gray plates and other pieces the look like that

Edit to add supporting details for this answer: as of now (2022), 3 sets have at least two of each of the octagons, and only one of those has a substantial number of red pieces.
> 8 votes

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Tags: sets, set-identification
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# Question
Title: Identify this piece please? 2x2 plate with 8-sided bar running around it
Can anyone identify this item for me please? Its brick name or design ID would be great!

# Answer
> 12 votes
2x2 Modified Plate with Octagonal Bar Frame, also called Parabolic Ring. Part number 75937.

Older version: http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=30033#T=C

Slightly different newer version: http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=75937#T=C

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Tags: piece-information, part-identification, star-wars
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# Question
Title: How do I make the Mini Cooper (model 10242) motorized?
I'm trying to find out what exact parts I need to make the Lego Mini Cooper 10242 motorized. I'm trying to surprise my boyfriend with the set plus the parts he needs to make it motorized. I'm just at a loss of finding what extra parts I need to buy so any help and advice is much appreciated! Thanks so much!

# Answer
Here is the only example I can think of.

We can see an example in the following video @0:39 by *PPUNG DADDY*:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvVJXhs\_Q3s&t=38s

Here is the servo-motor:

And the IR receiver on the rear, next to one motor. The battery is located behind the driver's seat:

We have a better view at the end of the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvVJXhs\_Q3s&t=1m31s

---

In order to do the same build, you would need:

What we clearly see in the video:

What is not shown but necessary:

* a remote controller: IR Remote Control or IR Speed Remote Control (allow to control speed of the motors but it responds more slowly)
* mount front wheels on a steering: see the front of this car for example: there are some fixed and free parts
* mount rear wheels on rotating axis with a differential gear between the 2 wheels
* some gears in order to transfer the movements from motors to the wheels:
    + direction on the front wheels from the Servo-Motor (but there may be some simpler setups)
    + gears between the differential and the L-Motor

These pieces would cost between 80 to 100 $, € or £ (I used the Brickset's average prices).

---

I don't have this model so I can't tell you what exact parts are required, sorry.
> 6 votes

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Tags: motor
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# Question
Title: Why are Technic holes slightly smaller than studs?
We know that Lego studs almost never should be placed into Technic holes because studs are slightly larger and will stress the hole. However, *why* is there this discrepancy? Surely when Lego created Technic they would have considered this possibility. Is there simply not enough room for the hole to be slightly larger? And if Technic holes were never meant to accommodate studs, why didn't Lego make the discrepancy larger to more naturally discourage such a mating?

# Answer
I'm going to guess that when axles were first introduced Expert Builder was not a thing and the hole size was based on making a convenient path through the 4x2 brick that was the only thing with holes in it. Those holes do not work with studs, they are too large. Even the "new" 1x2 bricks with hole type 1 and 2 didn't accept studs (and the gap/slot at the top prevented it). That allows axle slop, but with the huge parts at that time this was not a problem, in fact it meant low-precision models worked just fine.

In 1970 there was the "Gear Supplementary Set" and "Gear Set with Motor" that had the first mention I can find of axles and gears.

Note that the set is labelled "Universal Building Set" and TLG appear to agree that "Expert Builder" appeared after that in 1977. In 1976 when the 695 "race car" was released it used second variant red axle stops and 1x2 brick with hole type 2 but wasn't Expert Builder.

The 1x2 brick with hole makes it clear that putting a stud in the hole was not possible (this may be the reason for the slot?)

AFAIK those bricks and axles are compatible with current Technic (they work IME but the dimensions might have changed a tiny amount and I wouldn't know)

Then we can look at TLG's current view of their history and see this from "The beginning" of Technic

> In the early 1970s, Jan Ryaa was one of the very first LEGO designers to play with the idea of building cars, using large square LEGO Mobil bricks in yellow, red and blue with white cross-axles and cogwheels. These were used for showroom models and were not planned as production models, nor intended for sale.

I suspect he was using the production axles and bricks, but trying to make more mechanically accurate/challenging models and found the giant gears and 4x2 bricks a bit useless.

Brickset's history of Expert Builder makes it clear that by the time that theme was launched the "modern" Technic brick was in production. All four models used those bricks, and the hole were as compatible with studs as they are today.

Again, I can't find an official statement from TLG on this, but I will guess that since Expert Builder used existing axles they just ran with that size, only tightening up the hole a little to make their tiny-toothed gears work properly.
> 2 votes

# Answer
EDIT: Answer's wrong, but I'm keeping it here because I don't like to hide from mistakes.

The articles you listed don't say that studs are too large to fit properly in the Technic hole; they say that the hole is in a slightly different position. This causes an alignment issue on the tops and bottoms of the bricks, which leads to stress if bricks are attached across both studs on top. As for why LEGO chose this design, the second article you mentioned answers this: "The Center point was moved up in order to accommodate the additional plastic needed around the Technic hole so that a stud can still fit in the bottom of the brick."

EDIT2: I have a theory, actually. The slightly smaller holes might be a compromise, to allow for Technic bricks to fit a stud on the bottom of the brick without pushing the top too far up.
> 1 votes

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Tags: technic, history, compatibility
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# Question
Title: Lego RCX 1.0 brick relationship to Robotics Invention System (RIS) & RCX firmware versions
What is the relationship between a Lego RCX 1.0 brick and these:

Robotics Invention System (RIS) versions

* 1.0
* 1.5
* 2.0

RCX firmware:

* firm0309.lgo: RCX firmware version 3.09
* firm0328.lgo: RCX firmware version 3.28
* firm0332.lgo: RCX firmware version 3.32

# Answer
> 2 votes
There is no significant hardware difference (\*) affecting software between the RCX bricks, so 1.0 brick is compatible with all firmware and RIS versions.

(\*) Known hardware differences:

* RCX 1.0 sold with RIS 1.0 had a power adapter plug.
* RCX 1.0 sold with RIS 1.5 no longer had this plug.
* RCX 2.0 had a 76 kHz IR interface instead of 38 kHz. It remains compatible with old versions (harmonic 2) albeit with a slightly reduced range. New frequency allows to communicate with Spybots bricks.

# Answer
> 2 votes
The main differences between the versions were:

1. Firmware - although later versions of the firmware were backwards compatible with the earlier bricks
2. Power Adaptors:
    1. RIS/RCX 1.0 had a power socket on the brick as well as battery options
    2. RIS/RCX 1.5 removed the power socket from the brick
    3. RIS/RCX 2.0 Functionally equivalent to RCX 1.5
3. IR Tower connections:
    1. RIS 1.0 and 1.5 had a serial connection for the IR Tower
    2. RIS 2.0 had a USB connection for the IR Tower, which doesn't operate nicely with 64bit Operating Systems (ironically\* the serial connection does work with a serial-USB adaptor apparently)
4. Manuals - I believe the Constructopedia was more comprehensive in 1.0 than in 2.0.

`*` I say ironically as I originally returned my 1.0 or 1.5 set as I was unable to get the serial connection to work on my PC at the time and later bought a 2.0 which worked fine then, but not any more on my more modern hardware.

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Tags: rcx
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# Question
Title: Set number of this brick-built 2015 Canned Fish Toy commercial Award LEGO Duck
I found these two ducks in a thrift-store but cannot identify them or the award show. The text on the stickers says: "Canned fish - Toy commercial Award - 16-18 September 2015 - Ringkøbing" and the instructions are marked: "Design seminar 2015". Google is not my friend :-(

# Answer
> 2 votes
I looked into this, and it would seem that this is not a numbered model. According to an attendee of the event (who works for LEGO,) there aren't numbers for a lot of promotional sets, likely including this model. I have also searched Bricklink for this. It makes sense that this isn't a numbered set because it was for a seminar.

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Which set does bag 9 being to?

text:
# Question
Title: Which set does bag 9 being to?
We were recently gifted a lot of LEGO and have an unopened bag in among all the pieces. We are trying to identify what set it belongs with. Any one have any idea which set it might be?

# Answer
> 8 votes
It is from set 70404 King's Castle from 2013. Hope that helps.

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Tags: sets, set-identification
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title: What set is this piece from?

text:
# Question
Title: What set is this piece from?
I got this in a random lot with lot of pieces from 2001 sets. If you depress the black square on the side, it makes an auditory noise like a siren, but warbled, like in old sci-if movies. The body is white, except for the button, and the top is that radioactive orange that Lego doesn't make anymore. Also, only part stamp on it is H1. The lego stamp has no year.

# Answer
It's a bb42 "Electric, Light & Sound Siren 4 x 2 x 4 Jack Stone"

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=bb42&in=S

and in that colour it came in the Police HQ set 4611 http://brickset.com/sets/4611-1
> 2 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: What is this silver and transparent green electronic piece for / from
I found this Lego in a box with other old Lego parts and I have no idea what it is for. It has a 'Lego' logo with a code `5202` but I can not find anything online.

Could someone please give me more info on this?

# Answer
> 4 votes
This is a Spybotics Module from set 3809-1 Technojaw T55.

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information, electronics, remote-control
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title: Ø in LEGO part names

text:
# Question
Title: Ø in LEGO part names
Many LEGO part names use a Ø character in the name, for example, Armor For Hand W/Ø 3.2 Shaft (28803) or Beam A 4M Ball/Cup Ø10.2 (90611). Can anyone explain what the Ø means?

# Answer
> 27 votes
Ø is a pretty standard notation for diameter. So `w/Ø 3.2 Shaft` means the item has a shaft that has a 3.2(mm) diameter.

# Answer
> 14 votes
To elaborate on hobbs's comment, that character should actually be ⌀, `U+2300` DIAMETER SIGN, the meaning of which should be self-explanatory.

The character you asked about was Ø, `U+00D8` LATIN CAPITAL LETTER O WITH STROKE

Of course, it's entirely possible that the wrong symbol was used by the person naming the part in the list you're looking at (perhaps due to poor unicode support, since `U+00D8` lies in latin-1, but `U+2300` requires utf8).

# Answer
> 0 votes
It's an international symbol, whose curious intersection between a line segment and a circle visually depicts the concept of a *"a measurement exceeding the diameter of a part by some 15%, I reckon"*.

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Tags: piece-information
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title: Color sensor use in Commander app

text:
# Question
Title: Color sensor use in Commander app
I'm trying to build the MindCub3r model shared online at http://mindcuber.com. It often has trouble scanning the cube so I wanted to check the output of the colour scanner by using the Commander app. I've made a custom controller panel featuring a colour sensor output, but it only shows red, either dark or bright. The EV3 colour sensor can detect more than that, how can I get the Commander app to show me what colour it really sees.

Incidentally when scanning the cub I see it shining RGB light at the target. When using the app it is only shining red.

# Answer
> 3 votes
The MindCuber program uses a special ColorSensorRGB block (see section 2.1 on the MindCuber EV3 Page). This block uses a "hidden" mode of the LEGO EV3 Color sensor to read raw RGB values. This mode is not available in the Commander app for Android or iPhone.

The mode you are seeing in the Command app (with only the red LED) is the reflected light mode.

If you want to see what the MindCuber program sees, then you will need to write a program using the LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 desktop software along with the special ColorSensorRGB block from the MindCuber web page.

The MindCuber program does not actually care what color each square on the Rubik's cube is. It actually guesses which squares are white and then sorts the remaining colors by hue. So, observing the RGB values directly will probably not provide much insight. You will need to study the MindCuber program and copy parts of it to debug what the MindCuber program is "seeing".

There is also a list of troubleshooting tips on the MindCuber EV3 Page as well as a link to the MindCuber Facebook page which is the official way to get support for the MindCuber.

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Tags: ev3
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title: Non-working technic system

text:
# Question
Title: Non-working technic system
Recently I've been working on a car which when going forward is fast, and when going backward automatically goes slowly. Here are two photos of it:

(Just replace the text by "input") As you can see, it uses a switch to change of speed.

Above view.

To make the system work, the motor not only turns the most visible circular gears but also the worm gears. And then these worm gears move the switch and the speed is automatically changed.

Here is my problem: Once the 8-tooth gear between the worm gears gets to one end, it won't go back. Plus, when it is going from left to right, the motor has a big difficulty turning the worm gears. I want to avoid using a rubber band, so can someone help me?

# Answer
> 2 votes
I would suggest another solution. On the 9396 helicopter the blades can only rotate in one direction, because when a backwards rotation is input, a gear in the transmission line is lifted away from its neighbor automatically. In the instructions it's here (the yellow L-beam lifts up):

Where the gear is lifted away, place another gear for it to interact with there, which would be the transmission for your backwards drive.

# Answer
> 1 votes
I would try to action the switch with a rotating motion directly applied to it; on your picture it seems you're just holding it in place with an idle grey axle and trying to move it with a somewhat clever, but complex, mechanism.

You can use a torque gear to prevent the movement from going too far; but there's probably a more elegant solution using a differential to split the output to both your gear train and the switch. Assuming the load on your gear train is important enough, the power should first go to actuating the switch; and when that is blocked, it should revert to your gears and wheels.

This means you have to make sure moving the switch is always the easiest thing to do even when it's in the middle; as such you may also want to make sure to use a smooth axle joiner instead of a ribbed one; and you'll want to have some basic load on the gears even when the switch is in the neutral position.

On the other hand, I'm confident there should be a way to achieve a similar effect (different speeds according to the direction) using other means, such as multiple differentials and maybe some wheel only able to rotate in one direction.

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Tags: technic, gears
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# Question
Title: NXT Brick will not update firmware (clicking brick syndrome)
I'm running 6 NXT robots in an introductory class.

Occasionally we've had bricks that would not accept a program and I've reset the brick by pushing the reset button under the battery pack as well as pushing the button under the USB port, experiencing the blank screen and "click..."

Re installing the firmware usually gets them going again. I have one brick that when cleared and reset will accept a download, but when the program is run, port B drives the motor at full speed, and nothing else happens.

I have reset the brick many times, and the problem still exists. I sent a query to LEGO and got a computer generated response that there would be contact in 1-2 days.... nothing after a week, Sent the same query again and got tho same auto response.... still no real contact (after 4 days)

I'm looking for suggestions.

# Answer
> 14 votes
I just got an e-mail from LEGO that was the real fix:

> 1. Make sure the NXT brick is unplugged from the computer and take the battery or batteries out.
> 2. On the fourth battery holder down from the top, there is a black rubber button. Using a paper clip, please press down and hold this black rubber button for at least 20 seconds.
> 3. Put the batteries back in and then press the orange button. If the brick makes a clicking noise, this is a good thing.
> 4. There is a silver button on the top right connector peg hole on the back (there are 6 on the top and 6 on the bottom). Using the paper clip, please hold this silver button down for at least 20 seconds.
> 5. If the brick is clicking, please plug it into the computer and open up the NXT software. Go to 'Tools' then choose 'Update NXT Firmware,' then proceed the update the NXT firmware. If you get the error "Cannot Locate," then please go through the following steps:
> 6. With the brick plugged in and clicking, go to your computers device manager. To do so you can search your computer and type in device manager and hit enter.
> 7. In the device manager, find the 'Ports (Com & LPT) and click to expand this. You should see something that says 'Bossa' which you will right click and choose 'Update Driver Software.'
> 8. In the next window, choose 'Browse my computer for driver software.'
> 9. In the following window, choose 'Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer.'
> 10. Choose the options that says 'NXT' or 'LEGO NXT' (one of the options will say something along those lines) and click 'Next."
> 11. Once the update is complete, please open the NXT software and try running the firmware update again. **Please note that the NXT brick needs to be clicking the entire time as there is a timeout function on the NXT brick which turns the brick off after a certain amount of time. If the brick is clicking, you know it is on**

# Answer
> 2 votes
Since you tried reuploading the firwmare without success, it sounds like the brick is indeed defective. You were right to contact the customer service in that case as they should be able to replace it; however it's not normal that they didn't contact you back. You may want to call them directly (you can find the number on the service web page) and let them know that your online queries went unanswered.

Alternatively, if you got Education kits (which seems likely since it's for a class), you may want to contact your reseller first and let them know aoub the issue.

The only other possible thing I could imagine going wrong is that the firmware file is corrupted somehow - this would be consistent with the brick accepting it for download, but then failing to run properly. If you have another brick, you may want to try to send the same firmware to it and see if the problem happens too. Then of course you'd need to make sure you download the latest firmware and try that one - I woudl say it's worth a shot anyway (you could also redownload and compare with your existing file if you want to check it's corrupted or not).

# Answer
> 1 votes
Here's what I think you should do:

1. Completely disconnect your NXT from the computer (no USB connection).
2. Remove all external Bluetooth dongles from your computer, and turn Bluetooth off on the computer (just to be sure).
3. Reboot the computer (this is to make sure no other application is trying to compete for the USB port).
4. Restart the Mindstorms application (and, if possible, don’t start any other applications).
5. Remove one battery from the NXT for a couple of seconds, then reinsert it.
6. Push the NXT reset button firmly for five seconds (make sure you actually press it, and press it for the whole five seconds).
7. Now (with the NXT clicking and the environment up and running), connect the NXT to the computer via the USB cable. Preferably use a “primary” USB port, one on the computer itself and not on a keyboard or monitor.
8. On a PC, you can go to the device manager and check to see if the NXT shows up in “Firmware Update Mode” (if not, you may need to uninstall and reinstall the software and drivers).
9. Update the firmware to 1.03 using the “update firmware” option under the tools menu.

If this does not work, try *briefly* (one second) pushing the reset button again.

If that still doesn't help matters, try repeating steps 1-9 but using a different USB port on the computer.

If that also doesn’t work, try using a different computer and repeating the entire process.

---

Source: Clicking Brick Syndrome

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Tags: nxt
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# Question
Title: Can I open/repair this Duplo pullback motor?
My son has a Duplo pullback motor.

This motor does not work well. After pull back it moves forwards 2 and a half wheel turns and stops. There is a small resistance forcing it forward two millimeters it makes a louder click and then the wheels rotate again 2 and a half turns to stop again. After forcing 2 mm it continues again and again until the spring is loose.

As there are no screws to open it and fix the mechanism I don't know how to open and fix it.

Can anyone give a tutorial to open it non destructive and fix it?

# Answer
> 2 votes
Some Lego assemblies like this are welded together or otherwise permanently assembled. Usually the best you can do is cut them where there are seams, then glue them back together. Or, if that seems like too much work, buy a replacement on Bricklink

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Tags: duplo, repair
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# Question
Title: Drive motor via Power Functions IR with own power source
I want to see if it is possible to drive a Power Functions motor both with variable speed and forward/reverse with my own power source. I am planning to use my own power source, an IR receiver and a motor.

\[Power Source\] -\> \[IR Receiver\] -\> \[Motor\]

As I understand it, the pin out for Power Functions is as follows:

* GND
* C1 +/-9v
* C2 +/-9v
* +9v

Which of the above pins would I need to power to achieve this?

Do I need to provide a constant 9v to the IR receiver for it to function?

Can I rely on the IR receiver to vary the speed of the motor?

What would happen if the IR receiver was powered with less than 9v?

My power source may not always spin fast enough to develop 9v so I am wondering what would happen in this case.

P.S. I am returning to this hobby after 25 years so not entirely up to speed on how all of the new "stuff" fits together!

# Answer
> 4 votes
**Which of the above pins would I need to power to achieve this?**

You would apply the (-) side of your power source to GND and the (+) side of your power source to +9v.

**Do I need to provide a constant 9v to the IR receiver for it to function?**

Generally, yes. However, lower voltage or suddenly losing power will not harm the part.

**Can I rely on the IR receiver to vary the speed of the motor?**

Yes. The IR receiver handles the speed regulation.

**What would happen if the IR receiver was powered with less than 9v? My power source may not always spin fast enough to develop 9v so I am wondering what would happen in this case.**

I haven't tested this, but I would expect it to lose range, provide less power to the motor, and at some voltage level under 9V completely stop functioning. This shouldn't cause any damage to the part.

It sounds like you are powering this from some type of generator. Make sure that you have protection in place to ensure that the IR reciever isn't power by significantly more than 9V.

Welcome back to the hobby! If you're looking to simply interact with PF motors at a low level, the control lines are simply attached directly to a 9V motor, so you can use those much like the old 9V motors. The basic motors aren't steppers or anything complicated.

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Tags: power-functions, motor
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# Question
Title: Is 9585: WeDo Resource Set compatible with 45300: WeDo 2.0 Core Set?
As title, not sure if these two can work well together?

Or, should I wait for WeDo 2.0 Resource Set?

# Answer
> 2 votes
As far as I have understood from talking to one the people who developed WeDo version 2, it's not compatible with the old.

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Tags: wedo
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# Question
Title: How do I robustly tilt a strength-1 wall?
### Background

I am still working on my model of a ride-on mower, which has a seat that looks like this:

As you can see, the seat is mounted onto an inclined surface, which I realised to my satisfaction and which causes the seating area of the seat to be inclined as well. However, this means if I build the back of the seat in a rectangular manner, it will be inclined forwards, which is unrealistic (and uncomfortable for the driver). Therefore I need to tilt it backwards.

### Goal

I have a 6×1 wall mounted onto one side of a regular 6×n plate and want to tilt it by at least 10° and at most 40°. With regular hinges, this looks like this:

However, if I use regular hinges, the result is not very robust and the wall falls down easily. I am therefore looking for a more robust solution.

Some specifications:

* Whatever is needed to tilt the wall may not extend below the plate. (I need that place for something else, namely the complicated mounting.)
* Whatever is needed to tilt the wall may extend somewhat forward (onto the plate) on the sides (resembling the above seat) but not backwards.
* All components should be available in black. (I used red in the examples for better visibility.)
* The inclination may begin somewhat above the plate.

# Answer
> 5 votes
My best solution so far are minifigure legs (which are pretty robust on their own) combined with a clip tile to hold the wall in place:

# Answer
> 4 votes
I propose a slightly different solution for the chair: Use Technic bricks.

In this picture I have used 32526 Technic 5x3 bent 90 pieces, with 43857 Technic Beam 2 and 32523 Technic Beam 3 pieces to make the chair uniform. You can make one or two attachment points to ground by either utilizing 64276 Technic Beam 2 Liftarm with Straight Ball Joint as in the picture below, or using 3651 Technic Axle and Pin Connector with a friction pin instead. For optimal reproduction of the original chair, you might want to use two of these supports in your model (my image only shows one).

Then, tilt the chair lightly back on the ball joint or connector, and use 4274 Technic Pin 1/2 together with 1x4 and 1x3 tiles to create horizontal and vertical armrests just like on the chair in your picture. You could even combine the new 1x2 tile with rounded edge with a 1x2 or 1x1 tile, mounted on a 1x3 or 1x2 plate, to create a curved top and bottom edge. Note that in the picture above I have offset the vertical tile by half a stud to make it fit more nicely.

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Tags: building, moc, snot
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title: Trains overview image

text:
# Question
Title: Trains overview image
I'm looking for an overview image of all trains ever released by LEGO. With trains I mean train sets containing locomotives and wagons that run on train tracks.

There is a beautiful image from Jeroen de Haan, which shows all trains from 1981 to 2003, but it's a little outdated.

# Answer
> 4 votes
There is a new project called Train Poster v2 which is making a new poster with all trains from the 1960's until today. It is still a work in progress as of 2016.

# Answer
> 3 votes
If you are looking for a direct continuation of the poster, your best bet would be to contact the author on his website.

It wouldn't be too hard to remake the models yourself as all the software is available out there for free. The author has used LDraw to view the models and POV-Ray to render them. You can find the details here.

Fortunately Eurobricks has a database of official sets designed by fans in LDraw.

However, there are only 1927 sets available (as of April 2015) and most of the train sets released after 2003 are not available.

There are 4748 sets designed using the LEGO Digital Designer (LDD) software. If you open a LDD file in LDD, you can export the file as an LDraw file. (File -\> Export Model / `Ctrl + E`). Even with the most up-to-date LDraw parts library, you may find that not every LDD brick will be available in your LDraw model.

If you cannot find all the models in LDraw or LDD, you may be able to find the files created in other LEGO CAD software or you can recreate the models yourself using your favourite LEGO CAD software using the instructions (which should be available on the LEGO site).

LDD would probably be the best choice, as you can render the files using LDD2PovRay.

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Tags: sets, trains, city
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# Question
Title: Can you help identify my new LEGO set? Round glass door, black and red hoods, gray and black with a few red pieces
I have a new LEGO set that I can't identify. I have looked all over Google. It came with a round glass door that looks like it could probably be a trap door and a plain black head and a grumpy face head. Also there is a black hood or helmet thing and a red one that cover the whole face but those are the only distinctive pieces. The whole set is mostly gray and black with a few red pieces.

# Answer
> 7 votes
As Phil mentioned, it's hard to give a definitive answer without a picture to help, but based on your description, it sounds like you may have at least part of Death Star Final Dual (75093):

This set is the only one I'm aware of that:

* Is mostly gray with a little red
* Includes a non-printed black minifig head
* Includes a black hood element
* Includes a red element that covers the entire face
* Includes large round transparent elements

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Starting Lego robotics projects low-budget with the intention of expanding later
I've been digging around for cheap ways to build and control simple devices and was looking at the Mindstorms sets when I found WeDo and WeDo 2.0. WeDo appears to be compatible with Power Functions sets, but WeDo 2.0 uses a different connector which is similar to, but not the same as, Mindstorms.

I'd like to start low-budget (suggesting WeDo as my starting point, because those controllers are much cheaper) but I want the option of expanding to more of the Mindstorms functionality in the future.

For my purposes, right now, WeDo seems adequate, but it looks like a dead end (unless the WeDo 2.0 connector is the future, in which case maybe EV3 is the dead end!). That's antithetical to the reasons I would even consider Lego in the first place.

Digging further I see rumors that WeDo 2.0 and Mindstorms may be set to converge in the future. So even if I convince myself that i have no choice but to start with EV3, that could still turn out to be incompatible with future parts; but on the other hand it may turn out that my cheap WeDo 2.0 controller would work with future Mindstorms accessories.

Perhaps WeDo 2.0 and EV3 are compatible using just a cheap adapter, like how PF1 parts are. I don't know.

In brief; if I want to expand my kit in the future, and I don't want to spend a lot of money today, then what should I buy? Is there any concrete information available about compatibility or future kits that would help me make this decision?

# Answer
> 4 votes
According to the WeDo 2.0 FAQ

> **Is this a new plug system?**
>
> Yes, this is the new LEGO Power Functions plug that has been optimized also to meet potential future needs.
>
> **What does that mean for the existing plug systems on other Power Function and MINDSTORMS products? Will they also be changed?**
>
> Yes, eventually we will convert to the new plug system after a transition period. The exact timing of this transition has not been determined.

However, if you want to build something *today*, WeDo is a good choice since it is compatible with the current Power Functions products.

There is also the 3rd-party SBrick that works with current Power Functions products but uses Bluetooth Low Energy like WeDo 2.0.

# Answer
> 0 votes
Looking more closely at all the options, I see that only the Mindstorms sets have removable cables in the devices themselves. That gives me the option of buying spare cables to make into adapters for other kinds of controller without having to spoil the device itself.

So I think it's best if I buy just the motors and sensors from the EV3 family that I need, and use a cheap third-party controller rather than the EV3 brick.

I do see a couple of devices designed to control EV3 parts (eg., PiStorms and EVShield), so I wouldn't even need to make up an adapter. Those are more expensive than the WeDo controllers, but they're at least compatible with Mindstorms parts.

But I think what I'm more likely to do is to rip apart a cable and attach it to a micro:bit, because break-out boards and motor control boards for that are dirt cheap and I already have the main board sitting here in front of me.

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Tags: mindstorms, power-functions, wedo
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title: Use legacy RCX sensors with EV3

text:
# Question
Title: Use legacy RCX sensors with EV3
In NXT-G, there was a "Legacy" Block pack which had blocks to allow for the use of RCX motors/sensors with the NXT, as long as you had a converter cable. However, the EV3 software does not have this, and it currently does not appear to have support for converter cables due to the lack of special programming blocks you can download.

What I basically need to do is connect two touch sensors to the same port, so that the EV3 brick would get input if either one is pressed. I have a pair each of RCX, NXT and EV3 touch sensors. I also have three of the NXT-RCX converter wires. Unfortunately, none of the sensors are working with the converter cables, and I cannot use this or this method because I'm preparing for a competition which doesn't allow modification of lego parts.

I came across this thread from the lego site from 2013 regarding this issue, but it offers no solution. I've even tried using the raw sensor blocks with the touch sensors, but they don't give me any output.

I am also only allowed to use the EV3-G programming interface.

Does anyone know how I can use these split cables with the EV3 brick?

# Answer
Unfortunately, you cannot use the LEGO 8528 (NXT to RCX adapter) cable with **sensors** on the EV3. You can use it with **motors** though.

This is because the adapter cable only connects to pins 1 and 2 on the MINDSTORMS (RJ12) connector. On the NXT input (sensor) ports, pin 2 is GND.

On the EV3, however, pin 2 on the input port is no longer GND. It is used to tell the difference between NXT sensors and EV3 sensors.

Without a proper ground (GND), the sensors will not work correctly. This is why the videos for modifying the cables use pin 3, which is GND on the EV3.

Furthermore, for those not restricted by the rules of a competition that can make their own cable, you also need to know that the EV3 firmware lacks the ability to send power pulses needed by "active" RCX sensors. From the NXT hardware developer kit:

So, don't expect the RCX Light sensor or the RCX Rotation sensor to work with the EV3 even if you make your own cable because it lacks this feature.

---

As a side note, RXC motors will work with the LEGO 8528 cable and the EV3 because pins 1 and 2 on the output ports are for motor + and -. They work exactly the same as Power Functions motors as described here.
> 4 votes

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Tags: ev3, rcx, ev3-g, sensor
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# Question
Title: Lego Digital Designer: Having Gears Interact with Toothed Bar
I just started using LDD, and I have been trying out a few things that I couldn't do with the limitations of my Lego collection. One thing that has me caught up is that I can't seem to get the technic gears to interact with the Toothed Bar piece. I know this is possible in real life, but I was wondering if it is possible to do on the computer.

In the project I have, I want the lever to be turned and the platform attached to the Toothed Bars to go up or down. Right now, only the gears on the axle spin when rotated.

# Answer
> 4 votes
The LEGO Digital Designer software does not have the ability to simulate the interaction of gears.

There is a similar software program called SR 3D Builder that does have this capability.

# Answer
> 4 votes
LDD is a design solution for static models. It is not a functional simulation tool. The gears turn with the crank handle if they are associated to the same group, but that is only because the gears, the axle and the handle share the same rotation point. The toothed bar does not share that same rotation point (and is likely not part of your "group" that contains the handle, axle and gears) and hence does not turn. If you made it part of the group, it would rotate around the center of the axle, which is not the effect you are looking for.

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Tags: technic, gears, ldd
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title: Raw sensor question?

text:
# Question
Title: Raw sensor question?
What is raw sensor and what is on port 3?

Is this code only for robot to go completely straight without errors?

# Answer
> 3 votes
PID stands for Proportional-Integral-Derivative - which is an industry standard way of controlling processes and minimizing the deviation from a setpoint. It assigns 3 factors (K\_p, K\_i and K\_d) to three calculated variables all based on the measured process, in this case the deviation from the ideal sensor value coming from the color sensor connected to port 3.

Those three calculated variables contain the proportional deviation (i.e. just the difference between the ideal value and the measured value), the integral of the error (sort of like the sum of all errors over time) and the derivate (the change in the error value over time). The final adjustment the motors need to do is calculated based on those three deviations (P, I and D) to get to a "turn" amount, which is then passed on to the motor to execute.

You can read all about the PID control implemented here in the link in the left top corner of your diagram, which is this: http://inpharmix.com/jps/PID\_Controller\_For\_Lego\_Mindstorms\_Robots.html. It actually explains the concept pretty well and is relatively easy to follow, as it is targeted towards FLL students (i.e. 9-14 year old kids).

The author of the article also explains why he uses the sensor in RAW mode:

> Using raw light values (0 to 1023 scale), instead of uncalibrated light values, might increase the dynamic range of the light sensors. For our example light values black would be 400 and white 500. The offset would be 450 with a range of +/-50 instead of +/-5. The raw light values is available from a data port on the light sensor block. If you calibrate your light sensor under your lighting conditions and use the calibrated values then white will be about 100 and black will be about 0. This is another way to increase the proportional range of the light sensor. In both the raw and calibrated modes the light values probably are not accurate in the last digit but hopefully the values are somewhat more precise than using a light value range of just 10 or so.

In short: the range of values coming from the default light sensor is more coarse (0-100) than when using the sensor in raw mode (0-1023), so you get better control over the motor output as there are more light levels to play with.

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Tags: ev3
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# Question
Title: Tips for getting enough bricks to make a MOC with unified style
In the past, I made MOC's out of my LEGO Star Wars sets. At this point in my life, I don't really want to take those apart for pieces and I'd much rather have them on display. Recently, I have been buying sets on-sale at Walmart that from the City and Creator lines, (sets which I won't have the urge to assemble and display like Star Wars).

Now, I have a decent pile of pieces, but I'm having trouble making anything with a unified color palette and style. I would like to make detailed real life buildings and buildings/scenes from Star Wars, but I can't seem to find sets that are not overly expensive and aren't Star Wars that contain pieces (mainly bricks) that I need. I'm a bit apprehensive of buying LEGO lots online because the sellers rarely show what you'll actually be receiving, and the thrift store near me hardly has any toys, let alone LEGO.

Are there any sets that have a good price per piece or any other suggestions to help fill out my brick selection? (I've looked at BrickLink, but I don't want to buy individual bricks since I don't know what I am building)

This is what I have gotten so far:

* 10698 LEGO Classic Large Creative Brick Box
* 10696 LEGO Classic Medium Creative Brick Box
* 10692 LEGO Classic Creative Bricks
* 60047 LEGO City Police Station Building Set
* 60117 LEGO City Van & Caravan
* 60081 LEGO City Pickup Tow Truck
* 60107 LEGO City Fire Fire Ladder Truck
* 60118 LEGO City Garbage Truck
* 60119 LEGO City Ferry

Edit: I'm not really asking how to get bricks cheaply, more or less I was trying to see how I could get pieces that matched a specific style. I feel like the answers both do a good job giving both shopping and building tips for this problem.

# Answer
> 9 votes
Buying random LEGO sets hoping that it will have parts that will fit with what you want to build is an expensive process that can leave you with a huge number of unwanted pieces, and still not have what you want.

Having said that, it is still a good idea to buy some sets that have a good number of pieces and/or building styles that you like and fit your project. For example, if you are planning to build a Star Wars scene, narrow down what scene you would like to build, and see if LEGO has already done any sets from that setting.

LEGO actually considers all their sets as "seeds" that will hopefully inspire LEGO fans to expand on further. So, you buy that Star Wars set that fits your idea, then you start to expand on it. LEGO designers probably already worked out some of the most iconic features of that setting, so all you need to do is expand on them.

If you have a good number of parts, but they are in a rainbow of colors, you can still work on the project you want, but focus on the shapes and techniques rather than the colors. Once you are happy with the design, you can swap out the wrong colored pieces with the correct ones by purchasing them on BrickLink or at LEGO's Pick-A-Brick section.

It is sometimes difficult however to ignore a bunch of bright colors when all you want to build is a mostly gray space-station. So you can combine building with the bricks you have, and virtual building in LEGO Digital Designer. Once you are done, you can count exactly how many bricks you need to buy in which color.

In general I found that even if you are on a smaller budget or lacking space, it is a good idea to have a fairly large stack of bricks in one neutral color (grays, tans and white are the best in my experience), so you can model pretty much anything without being distracted by a rainbow of colors. This way you can work out the shape, size and design of pretty much anything, and then later switch out the pieces with the correct colors. This technique also significantly reduces the cost of projects, because you don't end up buying sets and pieces you don't want.

However if you are completely against shopping on BrickLink or at Pick-A-Brick, there are some sets that might work with your Star Wars project. I'm particularly thinking of the LEGO Minecraft sets because they contain large quantities of basic pieces in earth-tone colors (tans, browns, greens, grays, blues, white and black). They are pretty much the same as the LEGO Classic Brick Boxes that you purchased already, but with earthy tones. They are very useful for creating more realistic landscapes, buildings, etc.

# Answer
> 5 votes
While I wholeheartedly agree with all of TheBrickBlogger's advice here I would add a few suggestions:

* The LEGO Architecture Studio has 1200 bricks that are mostly white with a few transparent parts.

That is a huge number and variety of bricks all in the same color. They chose white because it is the classic color for architectural models, but it became the classic color because it blends nicely with almost everything. Since it isn't a bright color it won't clash with whatever you're trying to do as long as it isn't Bat Man. You have a lot of elements already which use white alot so this should fit nicely.
* Use your bright bricks for structural elements. Many LEGO sets include red and blue bricks that you never see when the model is completed. Having these be a nice contrasting color makes their instruction books easier to follow, but it also helps you by using your available bricks more efficiently.
* If you're trying to build things that go with your models check out the new Death Star. In addition to some great minifigs you'll have tons of grey bricks to build anything with.

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Tags: sets, shopping, moc
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# Question
Title: When did piece markings change from DUPLO to LEGO?
I've looked at some of the DUPLO bricks I grew up with, and compared them to newer ones. I've noticed that the knobs on the older bricks say DUPLO, while the newer ones say LEGO.

When did this change?

On the back of the yellow brick (not pictured) you can see writing "LEGO group"

# Answer
> 2 votes
According to Wikipedia:

> In 1975, Duplo became its own product brand, with five sets made up exclusively of Duplo bricks.
>
> ...
>
> In 1977, the Duplo name was dropped in favor of Lego Preschool.
>
> ...
>
> The name Duplo was brought back in 1979, along with a new reworked logo.

Although I haven't found this information yet (most people likely see this detail as unimportant), it is possible that LEGO started with putting DUPLO on the bricks either when they first came out (in 1969) or in 1975 when DUPLO became its own "product brand". They likely changed it in either in 1977 (when LEGO called it LEGO Preschool) or in 1979 (when they brought back the name DUPLO).

According to Brickipedia:

> In the Preschool range, new DUPLO bricks were introduced, including arches and the first DUPLO figures, which did not have movable limbs.

Considering the above quote, it is possible that with the new bricks the DUPLO on the "knobs" (as you call them, however the proper name is a "stud") was changed to "LEGO"; this was in 1977 on.

Source(s):

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Tags: duplo, vintage
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# Question
Title: Lego Digital Designer on OS X El Capitan?
Since the El Capitan 10.11.2 upgrade some options are gone in Lego Digital Designer. In the Preferences menu the "Outlines of bricks" and "Advanced shading" are options unselectable.

The annoying part is that without brick outlines it is hard to use for building new things since it is impossible to see where the bricks start.

I have looked at this forum: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=115313

There is a quoted workaround that suggests deleting these lines from the Info.plist file of the app: LSMinimumSystemVersion 10.4.11

But it does not work for me.

Any other workaround appreciated.

# Answer
LEGO Software in general doesn't work that great with Apple computers (I a speaking from experience). Try a couple of different solutions by searching the web, and contact LEGO Support. Hope you find a solution!
> 1 votes

# Answer
You can install WINE to run LDD for Windows.
> 1 votes

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Tags: ldd, cad, mac
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title: 8258 Headlight assemblies

text:
# Question
Title: 8258 Headlight assemblies
Anyone else having a problem with with headlight assemblies on 8258 crane truck? I can't seem to fit them in due to interference from fog light bar. Thanks

# Answer
From looking at the picture, it appears as if there is a brick (a 1x2 brick, light gray) behind the headlight. The headlight connects to it in a similar fashion as shown in the following image:

Hopefully that helps.
> 2 votes

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Tags: technic, instructions
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title: Are LEGO cost-cutting with materials?

text:
# Question
Title: Are LEGO cost-cutting with materials?
Is it just me, because I have noticed that with the recent LEGO bricks and mini figures they have many many more cracks. Especially on the sides of their torso. I have noticed that specific (newish) brands have a higher chance of cracking. Does anyone know?

# Answer
> 4 votes
Since none of us here officially represents The Lego Company, the only possible answer at this moment (if I take your question literally) is "no". We don't know whether TLC has introduced a change in the manufacturing process, if such a modification was made in order to reduce costs, and if such a modification could have resulted in sub-par quality bricks.

The phenomenon you describe can be a result of a deliberate modification in the production process, an honest accidental mistake at one of the manufacturing facilities, or even might be a textbook case of confirmation bias, and it is quite hard to differentiate between these without auditing the relevant factories and your experiences.

The only ones capable of giving an official answer would be the customer support team at Lego, but I guess they would just tell you that they strive to provide their valued customers with the highest quality bricks, and they sorry, but they can't disclose exact manufacturing steps or financial decisions. But they might offer to replace your cracked bricks, or at least might appreciate feedback, so I think you should write them a detailed message about your experience.

# Answer
> 2 votes
I have 2 lego keychains, and in a few weeks, the legs are already mis-shaped and caved in. I think they are trying to save money by making their products not as strong as before.

# Answer
> 1 votes
Interesting question. My son's MineCraft Zombie figures have developed cracks in them. Surprised the heck out of us as he treats them no differently than other figures. Confirmation of your hypothesis is anecdotal, the problem may be in the design not material. Either way it is not the usual Lego quality so we stay away from MineCraft.

# Answer
> 1 votes
This is rare, even though I have had some older Lego plates crack right down the middle.

I would just suggest to not try to remove plates at angles as this could cause the cracking.

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Tags: minifigures
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# Question
Title: Getting a PC to recognize Lego Mindstorms as Controller Input
It is quite obvious that you can make a controller out of Lego Mindstorms, but I am curious as to how you can go about connecting this controller to your PC, and getting it to recognize it as controller input.

# Answer
> 1 votes
You will not be able to do this with the official LEGO firmware, but it will be possible with ev3dev or possibly another 3rd-party OS for EV3.

Search the web for "linux bluetooth hid emulation". There are plenty of examples. I haven't tried any of them, so I can't recommend any specific one here.

I can recommend using the python programming language with ev3dev though, as it is the easiest way to get started if you are not an experienced programmer. Searching for "linux bluetooth hid emulation gamepad python" turned up this python program, which looks promising.

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Tags: mindstorms, bluetooth
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# Question
Title: How can I determine the value of an out of production set on the aftermarket?
I have a number of early 70's or earlier LEGO sets.

One is set 40 and the other is train number 171.

I'm trying to find a value and some additional information for these sets. I have searched a little but haven't found anything substantial on the image hunt.

Both sets are with their box.

# Answer
> 1 votes
There are several sources you can use to determine the value of a set. Just remember that:

1. Just because it sold once for a certain amount, yours will not necessarily sell for the same amount. Tons of factors come into play, including completeness, box quality but also demand, location and luck (especially with vintage sets).
2. Just because it sold once before, doesn't mean the set is in demand or will sell anytime soon. Especially with very old sets like yours, there isn't a lot of demand. Vintage LEGO is nice to have, but sets from those days are significantly less sophisticated than recent sets.
3. For LEGO: older doesn't necessarily mean more expensive. A lot of really old sets actually sell for remarkably little money.

In no particular order, here are the most common reference sources for determining set values:

# Bricklink

The most comprehensive source of set values when dealing with items that collectors will buy. Your everyday buyer won't typically use this venue, but in case of vintage sets, collectors do frequent BL. It's Price Guide feature is powerful, but only contains data on the last 6 months.

Set 40 has not been sold the last 6 months on BL, so there is no Price Guide. It does have 5 current listings world-wide.

Set 171 has also not seen any sales in the last 6 months on BL, but it currently has 17 listings world-wide.

# EBay

EBay shows a history of sold listings for any given search term. Since EBay is also used by the casual shopper, this gives you a broader overview, however, especially for highly collector items that don't have a broad audience, like your vintage sets, people might shun EBay due to high fees.

Looking at set 40 sold listings on EBay, there have been 2 in the last while, both international sales in Europe.

Set 171 has been sold 3 times, two at around $50 and one at around $100 (USD).

# BrickPicker

Brickpicker is an investment guide for LEGO. This site focuses on managing a portfolio of LEGO sets as if they were stocks. They keep important statistics (mainly compiled from EBay) on every set produced by the LEGO group. Sales statistics are nicely split out by country/region, which can be helpful.

Set 40 is listed here.

Set 171 is listed here. As you can see, neither of these sets have a lot of sales data due to their age and low sales frequency.

There are other sites such as camelcamelcamel.com which tracks sales of toys on Amazon.com, but the above 3 are the key ones I would use.

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Tags: vintage
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# Question
Title: How do I find a set in a bunch of jumbled up pieces
So my mum bought a LEGO set on eBay a while ago and it didn't come with instructions or a box so we didn't know how to build it but since then it has been jumbled up with a whole bunch of other pieces so I don't know what's in the set and what isn't. Also, I think it's the from Belville range (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belville\_(Lego)).

# Answer
> 1 votes
Start by looking for some rarer pieces. Not regular 4x2 bricks, but maybe a slide or a odd-shaped wall piece. Under each brick will be a four or 5 digit number. Go to BrickSet.com and search for that number, hopefully it will find the piece you are looking at and list colours that piece is available in and the sets it comes in (e.g. http://brickset.com/parts/design-6187). From there you just look up and down the list until you see a set that contains the other pieces you have, or search for another part and see if there are sets from the first list that appear on the second list. The trick is to find a part that is sufficiently rare.

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification, theme
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# Question
Title: How can I generate a list of missing parts for incomplete sets?
Does anybody know if there is a website where I can record my incomplete LEGO sets?

That way I could generate a list of parts I would require in order to complete them.

I currently use Brickset, however that only allows the user to record completed sets.

# Answer
Rebrickable.com offers this service. First add the complete set to you list, then view it on the set page like this http://rebrickable.com/sets/42029-1/customized-pick-up-truck-technic-2014 At the bottom of the first panel you'll have an option to "Add to my parts list" from then you go through the list of parts and remove the ones you are missing.
> 3 votes

# Answer
Not a website per se, but look at BrickStock. This software runs on PC, Mac and Linux (via WINE) and is free to use (Registration and payment is only needed to use the Seller features of the tool). It allows you to download set inventories from BrickLink and creation your own inventories.

Here is how I would use BrickStock in your scenario:

1. Download the inventory for the set you are looking at.
2. Get the last 6 month average sale prices (Ctrl-A Ctrl-G) to help weeding out alternates (See step 3)
3. After removing CounterParts (marked as CP) and alternates (marked with identical numbers, e.g. 1 and 1, 2 and 2 etc., remove one of the two entries (typically remove the less common part i.e. the one with the higher selling price)), and optionally all the parts marked as "Extra", set all parts to Status "Exclude".
4. Then, go through your incomplete set inventory and for every part you have, set the entry in BrickStock back to "Include".
5. When done, you have a list of "Exclude" items which are the pieces you still need. Alternatively you can change the logic and make the default "Include" and mark all the parts you have as "Exclude".

You can save Inventories to file, and have multiple set inventories open at the same time.
> 0 votes

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Tags: sets, set-database
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# Question
Title: Need help identifying bricks from this list of images to buy them off Bricklink
List of images is here: http://www.mediafire.com/?n9w4cxlatlvuh8g

Final build here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25163007@N07/14560116177

# Answer
That's a pretty large build. I would suggest that you go through and study the BrickLink Catalog, identify as many pieces as you can, and if you are stuck, come back and ask people to identify the ones you have trouble finding. I think people would be more inclined to help you this way, rather than having to do all the work for you.

Here is the entire layout of the BrickLink Catalog, which is a great place to start: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogTree.asp?itemType=P

Another good way to begin a search, if you can't find something you are looking for, is to start with the Color Guide. Certain colors (like the Dark Blue in the aircraft you want to build) are fairly new, so there are not that many parts in that color, and it is easier to find them in the Color Guide rather than in the main catalog. Here is the link: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogColors.asp?utm\_content=subnav

Again, if you are stuck with something, feel free to ask, but you should be able to find most of the parts yourself.
> 2 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: How can I store LEGO bricks to prevent damage?
I have some LEGO bricks which are probably about 10 years old. They've neither changed color in any way nor dried out or anything, so it seems to be as stable as ever.

How should I store them so that my own children (and maybe their children) can play with them?

# Answer
## Plastic Bricks

* **Fading** — Keep bricks away from natural light to avoid colour fading. (Models in Legoland Miniland are subjected to year-round weather. The chemicals in the plastic bricks are broken down by UV light.)
* **Heat** — Keep bricks at room temperature in a dry place (like a cupboard). The melting point of a brick at 105 °C (221 °F) shouldn't be a concern.
* **Dust** — Store bricks in air-tight containers. Dust is notoriously difficult to clean, especially around the studs of a brick. Whilst dust has no serious long-term effects on Lego, it saves a lot of time cleaning the bricks in the future.

## Special Parts

* **Electronics** — Always remove batteries from electronics when put into long-term storage. Over time the batteries may corrode, leaving a sticky mess that can be difficult to clean.
* **Rubber** — Technic rubber bands and other pieces made of rubber will degrade over time when exposed to light and oxygen. Keep rubber bands in an airtight bag.
* **Stickers**How should I store unused stickers?

---

I'd save these last two points for LEGO merchants or casual online shoppers:

* **Smoke** — Keep bricks away from cigarette smoke. It can be very hard to remove damage from bricks, and may discolour them as well as leaving a faint odour.
* **Pet Hair** — If you plan on selling your LEGO bricks in the future, you may find some buyers have allergies to certain pets.
> 35 votes

# Answer
Store them in a place with no direct sunlight shining on the block to avoid bleaching. Also, make sure it isn't getting too warm (\>50°C) - that's about all, the standard LEGO bricks consist of ABS, which is very robust.

In conclusion, the ideal place is dark and has as least fluctuation in temperature as possible: put your LEGO in a box/chest and store it in your basement/cupboard.
> 15 votes

# Answer
My first LEGO set was a police station I think from 1976 where I was 2½ years old. This and many other bricks (have around 50-60kg) have been stored in cardboard boxes, in the attic for years and now my son and I are playing with them to great fun for the both of us.

Some of the bricks have some wear and tear, but overall the majority is looking just as fine as new ;o)
> 8 votes

# Answer
Avoid storing Lego bricks in your attic. The daily temperature range and extreme heat of summer can potentially damage the bricks.

Remove all batteries from Lego electronics before medium or long term storage.

Place all metal containing pieces and electronics in an airtight container (older metal axle wheels, etc) with a bag of desiccant. Desiccant is inexpensive and can be found at hardware or hobby shops, or online.

Sticker sheets should be stored individually, in long term storage the adhesives could migrate or ooze.

Store paper instructions and stickers in polyethylene, polypropylene, or polyester bags or notebook sheet protectors. The box of bags or protectors should be clearly labeled "archival safe". Other types of plastic bags contain softeners that can damage paper in long term storage. Archival notebook sheet protectors can be found at any major office supply. Archival bags can be found at art supply stores and online. Do not store these in attics, basements, or garages! Paper is highly sensitive to humidity and temperate fluctuations.

Store Lego rubber bands in a small polypropylene bag with each set, or separately. In long term storage they will probably deteriorate. (The rubber bands are easy to replace, but the rubber softeners they contain could damage bricks if they melt). Store older tires similarly.

If you have the original boxes the Lego sets came in, keep them dry and dust-free. The original boxes in good condition can enhance the value of the sets among collectors.

For more information on long term storage, a great conservation information site is the American Library of Congress at https://www.loc.gov/preservation/

A directly related question I have is if it is OK to store bricks attached together to save space, or if this will tend to cause the bricks to lose their grip and become loose after long term storage? I suspect it is better to store them loose, unattached, in case the ABS material has a 'material memory' property.
> 3 votes

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Tags: storage
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