# Question
Title: How does LEGO handle the breakage of Hero Factory sockets?
My son has a slowly growing collection of Hero Factory figures, and they have accumulated a consistent problem: socket connector cracking.

The tips of the angular part of the limb which connects to a socket tend to split, causing loose limbs, then eventually a separation of the tip, which causes the limb to fail connection with the socket.

This is through non-daily, low use. Are there ways to prevent this? What is LEGO doing to address this?

I've started to notice LEGO (and even Megablocks) using similar ball socket connections on non-Hero Factory toys, and expect this sort of failure to be common. I've not seen breakage of this kind through my multiple decades using LEGO.

**FOLLOWUP**

Per the recommendations below, I've contacted LEGO about this issue.

From LEGO:

> I am so sorry to hear (and actually see!) about the broken LEGO elements that you have. Here at The LEGO Group we hold ourselves to an extremely high quality standard. The fact that your elements have broken is something that we take really seriously. We would be more than happy to send you replacements for these pieces right away. If you would be so kind as to provide us with a little bit more information on the parts, we will be sure to help you out.

After a little research, I let them know the parts were from either Stormer (7169) or Breez (7165) depending on the color, that the other limb ends from those sets were separating in a similar fashion, and asked whether they had noticed similar faults with these types of pieces historically (morbid curiosity).

From LEGO:

> Thanks for getting back to use with the sets that you have broken pieces from. I am so sorry to hear that these parts have broken. That is unfortunate. I was able to pull up the image of the parts that you sent with your original email and was able to see the exact pieces that you need. Sadly, these parts have been discontinued and we are unable to replace those parts for you. I do apologize for this. I wish there was some kind of replacement to send, but sadly, there is nothing as a substitute for those parts.
>
> Again, we wish we could help you restore your LEGO set back to new but unfortunately the pieces you need are no longer available through us. There is hope though, Peeron.com is website run by a group of LEGO fans that contains information on LEGO sets, replacement parts, building instructions and more. It’s not affiliated with the LEGO Group but we know from other fans that it has a good collection of older building instructions to download, discontinued pieces to purchase, and great set information.

Ah well, thanks anyway!

# Answer
This was a common problem with ball sockets in Bionicle figures released between 2007 and 2010. The first wave of Hero Factory figures, which the pictured elements are from, also used this style of socket, as well as regular bricks with ball sockets released during that time.

The problem has been addressed by The Lego Group, and the new ball socket elements produced from 2011 and onward are much stronger. An exception to this is the 2012 wave of Hero Factory figures, which uses the same style of head piece as the 2010 wave and has the weaker socket (although none of mine have broken yet). However, as of 2013, the figures use a brand new head piece with a stronger socket. As far as I know, the older head is being discontinued like the elements in your picture.

The only advice I can offer about the older style of pieces is to be more careful when disconnecting and reconnecting them. Particularly, when disconnecting the ball from the socket, make sure to pull them directly apart rather than twisting them at an angle to have the ball pop out against the side of the socket.
> 9 votes

# Answer
Each time I've heard someone from LEGO speak about quality, they tend to insist on on simple message: they can't do anything on a problem they don't know about. This may seem very obvious, but they feel it needs to be repeated anyway.

What this means is that they want every single customer with any quality problem to actually report it. Apart from the fact that they always help customers directly, they record all of it and the number of times a problem is reported is also a good indicator for LEGO that the problem is serious and needs to be addressed.

A simple example: instruction books and sticker sheets regularly ended up bent or damaged. Through the number of complaints this generated, LEGO has learnt about the problem and how seriously it was perceived by its customers. As a result, instructions and sticker sheets are now packaged (manually, I might add, which has an extra cost) in a sleeve with a cardboard to protect them, at least in bigger sets (again, because of the cost).

So, in a nutshell, that's the most important thing LEGO does about all quality problem: they listen.

I have no way of knowing myself if that particular problem of ball joints in Hero Factory figures is very widespread or well known, but the more people report it to LEGO, the bigger the chance it's going to be solved. And in the meantime, everyone who contacts them will get replacements anyway.

So I would advise you to just follow that route: each time you get a broken part, go to the LEGO customer service Replacement Parts page, select "a piece broke while building", type in the set number and select the part which broke. You'll even get a chance to enter in detail what happened. So you'll get a replacement, which solves your immediate problem, but in the background LEGO might learn that this particular part is too fragile if a lot of customers report the problem.

One last thing which needs to be said is that even if LEGO is aware of a problem, or addressing it, or maybe already solved it, it may take time for the solution to reach the public. A new, enhanced version of a part might not appear in sets before the stock of the other version has been used, for example (unless the older version is so bad that LEGO will recycle the stock entirely, of course, but that probably doesn't happen too often).

Note: I apologize if this answer is very generic in nature and doesn't address the ball joints specifically (thus no answers on the "are there way to prevent this" part, although I guess a little bit of soap might help), but I feel it's very important to understand how LEGO deals with quality problems in general.
> 12 votes

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Tags: piece-information, durability, replacement-parts, hero-factory
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# Question
Title: Are there plans to release new trains for AFOL?
I just built the Maersk train, what an amazing model! I did a little research and found that it was released in 2011 and the Emerald Night was released in 2009. Given the two year gap it seems reasonable to assume there will be new train in 2013. Does Lego have a schedule or patterns for this kind of thing?

# Answer
> 13 votes
With the exception of evergreen themes like CITY and Duplo, it's not easy to predict when sets are released. Based on trends of the last 11 years, I've included the last 20 train sets that have been released in a table:

At least one train set has been released each year apart from the year 2008. The table marks an average of 1.66 train sets per year. It's fair to assume that a new train set will be released in 2012 or 2013.

Duplo, accessories, motors and track sets not included. I've included the Western Train Chase from the Toy Story theme, The Constitution Train Chase from The Lone Ranger theme and The Ghost Train from the Monster Fighters theme which you may wish to exclude as anomalies. The right-most column marks which sets were sold with track.

Set data gathered from Brickset.

**Download .CSV <sup>\[?\]</sup>**

# Answer
> 5 votes
Check the new Creator "Advanced" set : 10233 Horizon Express

# Answer
> 3 votes
There is a new cowboy set based on the lone ranger film coming out this year-summer 2013, looks really good for younger generation but thats it for the moment- not really a afol kit as such. info came from brickset- there were some pictures too, i think the article was about three months ago.

# Answer
> 2 votes
The Red Cargo Train is the most recent train set released after the Maersk Train.

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Tags: sets, trains, afol
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title: How do I build a curved wall?

text:
# Question
Title: How do I build a curved wall?
On my latest MOC I want to build a round tower.

This is a minifig-scale build, and the tower is going to have a diameter of about 20/30 studs.

How should I go about building the "curved" wall of the tower?

# Answer
> 40 votes
Inspired by Zhaph's wall, this one is made with 1x3 bricks. It has a radius of 12 studs (24 studs diameter).

It is connected to the base by the last two studs on each end of the arc. The middle of the wall rests on tiles. To complete the tower you can repeat this module 4 times and use 1x2 bricks to connect them (replacing the 1x1 end bricks).

This would not make a perfectly round wall, but it's pretty close.

# Answer
> 30 votes
If you make a wall out of 1 x 2 bricks, where each layer overlaps by a 1-stud offset, and make the wall long enough, you can bend it into a smooth curve because of the manufacturing tolerance between Lego bricks.

By Eggy Pop from MOC Pages

This particular wall uses rings of 84 bricks.

# Answer
> 28 votes
I managed to put together the following set-up for the beginnings of a slightly narrower tower:

This gives me a radius of about 7 studs if I go as tight as I can, giving a diameter of about 14/15 studs. I would have used \[part:3062b\] but I'm not that organised (yet), so went with \[part:4589:378\] instead.

I'll have to see what I can do with 1x3's and cylinders to get closer to 20-30 studs.

# Answer
> 3 votes
There are dozens of photos on brickshelf of similar builds, and lots of techniques that fans have used. You can either look in the "recent" list or use the search field to find what you're looking for. You'll have to collect pictures from shows and wip builds to source your preference to what resources you have at hand but there a lot of pictures for future reference. I've learned more in five months of looking at that site than in ten years of experimenting at home!

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Tags: building, snir
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# Question
Title: What element modifications are incorporated by the LEGOLAND builders?
I know they glue their sculptures together, and sometimes support them with an inner frame. Is that the limit to their element modifications, or are there more tricks to the awesome LEGOLAND builds on display?

# Answer
The glue is one obvious thing, and I think they recently also experimented with a new sort of transparent stuff to paint the finished models with so that they would be more resistant to direct sunlight. I don't think they'll paint bricks to change their colour, though.

However, In the same category of things any respectable AFOL would never do, I'm fairly confident they'll also resort to cutting elements if needed. I'm unsure if that happens often and it's probably limited to parts where the cut isn't visible from the public. Another thing is the use of generic plastic sheets for some large windows, for which no LEGO elements exist.

Then, as Kramii said, electrical and mechanical components are never LEGO. For the vehicles, they do have a generic frame (metallic, with motor, battery, and all control electronic) on top of which they build a LEGO exterior. Presumably, trains follow the same logic.

So yes, they are very lax with what they can or cannot do. I know the work area of the designer in Windsor is visible from the public, not sure it is so with other parks (I don't remember that in the two others I've seen); but if you get the chance it's nice to see them. With some luck, they'll have some time to spare to chat with you.
> 9 votes

# Answer
LEGOLAND builders appear to be quite "rules free" in their use of parts, as long as the final model looks as though it is made of LEGO.

* Not exactly a "part modification", but LEGOLAND builders have sometimes had access to parts in colors not available to regular builders.
* The builders often add lights or other mechanisms to their constructions. The moving vehicles are particularly interesting in the way that they follow predefined tracks under the roads, and stop on recharging points when their batteries are low.
* The trains don't use standard LEGO rails.
* Some of the models outside the "miniland" areas in the park are made from what appear to be extra-large LEGO bricks.
> 8 votes

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Tags: building, customization
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# Question
Title: Is there a way to change the Lego NXT sensor polling frequency?
I am using LEGO NXT 2.0 with the native NXT flowchart-style programming environment, I would love to be able to poll the sensors more frequently. (In particular, it seems that the light sensor is polled very infrequently, only about once or twice per second, and this limits the speed of a line-following robot I can build)

Is there a way to change the LEGO NXT sensor polling frequency using the LEGO software?

I am looking for a way to do this **using the LEGO software**, I realize that there is a way using MS robotics.

# Answer
> Most sensors have the capability of sending you notifications or updates as the value of their sensor changes. This is accomplished by repeatedly contacting the NXT brick and querying the sensor. The polling frequency allows you to configure for each sensor how often this is done.
>
> In most cases, you may leave this value set to 0, which indicates the default polling frequency. However, there may be times when you wish to get sensor reading back from one sensor more often. In this case, you can adjust the polling frequency, which is specified in milliseconds (1/1000 second).

from Device Services: Microsoft Robotics on **msdn**

The article goes on to suggest the range within which this can be effective.
> 3 votes

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Tags: nxt, mindstorms, programming, nxt-g
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# Question
Title: Whatever happened to Architecture 21015 Eames House?
The set was scheduled to be released in 2012, no such luck. Any idea on why it never came out? Was looking forward to building it.

# Answer
According to: http://toysnbricks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=58&t=5288

> so apparently B and N made a mistake, and the Eames House is actually not going to be a set (or so Adam Reed Tucker says). He answered a question about it today at the Master model Builder competition in Chicago

So sad.
> 7 votes

# Answer
I just checked the LEGO website out of the same curiosity and they seem to have the Leaning Tower of Pisa for 21015 but they have the image for Sungnyemun 21016 I think they might be updating the page right now. I can't wait to build the Tower of Pisa!
> 1 votes

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Tags: sets, architecture
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# Question
Title: Is there a way to build a stronger LEGO ball than what was done by the Mythbusters?
In one episode, the Mythbusters busted a fake video by building a 7' tall LEGO ball. The construction did not roll very far before falling apart.

Assuming that they only used standard bricks (with studs on top only), is there a better build pattern to make a stronger ball?

Extra info: They explain their build method in this video.

# Answer
> 15 votes
There *is* a problem with the Mythbusters building technique.

One of the first things you learn about building with Lego is that, if you want a stable structure, your bricks need to interlock as much as possible.

The Unofficial Lego Builder's Guide illustrates this rather well:

Unfortunately, to make the build easier the Mythbustes team assembled a series of large blocks and then assembled these meta-blocks into a ball. The problem with this approach is that it creates lines of weakness between the meta-blocks.

In the shots of the ball falling apart you can clealy see these sub-assemblies inside the ball, which suggests that it did indeed break up along the lines of weakness between them.

For maximum strength, the Mythbusters team should have built the ball in layers of single bricks, ensuring that in each layers bricks bound the layer below together as much as possible.

All that said, I don't think that the faulty building technique really invaidates the Mythbusters conclusions. There is simply no way that a Lego ball of that size would remain intact. You would expect, for example, that the outermost bricks would fall away in exactly the way they did in the Mythbusters. And in fairness, building the ball with fully interlocking bricks would have taken considerably longer than doing so the way they did.

Of course, if they're willing to supply the bricks, I'm sure we could try to do it better for them!

# Answer
> 1 votes
You could use lego technic and that would make the ball really strong, or you could cheat and glue it together! the other idea i would have would be to make the ball as curved on the surface as possible that way when the ball rolls, less stress is inacted upon on single point on the surface- which lead to the breakage on film and cracked it wide open! so not only a slightly different method used but also a different shape could used to make the ball more ball shaped other than a blocky version- the lego theme parks have many examples of near perfect curved surfaces so this could be done- with a few extra different shaped pieces and not just the ordinary building blocks as seen on the programme. Also as a general point but i didn't see anyone on the programme that could call themselves an experienced lego builder?...unlike james may did in his version.

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Tags: building
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title: Building instructions from an LXF file

text:
# Question
Title: Building instructions from an LXF file
I've downloaded an LXF file from rebrickable.com. Which software do I need (for Windows and/or Linux) to get the building instructions based on the LXF file?

# Answer
> 12 votes
You probably want Lego Digital Designer:

http://ldd.lego.com/

Once you have the .lxf file open, you'll want to select View -\> Building Guide Mode from the menu. This should give you step by step building instructions.

# Answer
> 5 votes
Although lxf files must be loaded with LEGO Digital Designer (LDD), it's not always the case that lxf files are loaded correct/completely with LDD. This because the fact that LDD uses a database where the parts are stored, but it doesn't contain all parts and the database changes from time to time. When trying to load older files, you have about 100% guarantee that the lxf file won't load correct. Thats why i'm using LDRAW and MLCAD. There is though a conversion program to convert lxf (LDD) to ldr/mpd (LDraw/MLCAD). However it relies on a xml file for the conversion. If this file is not complete or correct, the conversion will not be correct.

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Tags: software, instructions, ldd
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# Question
Title: Which LEGO Technic sets include instructions to add the Power Functions accessory box?
Some LEGO Technic sets apparently come with instructions to add a motor, using the pieces from the Power Function Accessory Box (set 8293).

Is there a list of the sets which do contain such instructions?

# Answer
> 5 votes
I recently purchased both 42006 Excavator and 9396 Helicopter, both of which comes with instructions on how to add motors.

The reviews for 9395-1: Pick-Up Tow Truck suggest it can be motorized.

A lot of the more recent Technic models are either too small for a motor or already come with power fuctions.

# Answer
> 6 votes
If you are looking for current Technic sets that have the Power Functions option, you can search LEGO.com by the term "power functions" and then filter by "Technic". This will also bring up sets that include Power Functions accessories in the set, so you have to look at the descriptions to find out more. As of the date of this post, the search also returns some retired sets.

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Tags: technic, sets, power-functions
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title: Lego Mindstorms NXT software error

text:
# Question
Title: Lego Mindstorms NXT software error
I have installed the retail version of the NXT software. Due to pitiful performance on my Mac (OSX 10.7 Lion) I followed guidance on other forums and uninstalled Flash 11 and reinstalled 10.

Now when I start the application, I get the following error:

I have read on one site that a patch is necessary, but the linked patches are for the EDU version of the software as opposed to the retail version (I guess?) so they won't even install properly.

Any suggestions are most welcome. I see that there are other alternatives out there to program the NXT, but frankly for the cost of this product, this software should *just work*. (Lego, I hope you're listening.)

# Answer
Here we go. I was browsing around looking for answers when I stumbled upon this thread: https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4158314?start=0&tstart=0

One person mentioned Lego tech support sent him a link to an ISO. It looked like maybe it was a newer ISO than the one I was using, so I tried it: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/31950731/MINDSTORMS%20NXT%20Retail%20MacWin%202012-06-21-1305.iso

It worked great! No patches, no nothing. Just installed that, restarted, and suddenly I have NXT-G working on Mac OS X Lion 10.7.5. Word.
> 5 votes

# Answer
There are a number of Mac Patches available from official Mindstorms support site:

> Mindstorms Support \> Files \> Patches

They include:

* Software 2.0 Fix (Mac)
* Snow Leopard Fix
* MAC Leopard Fix

The interface isn't all that obvious:

First, click on the file you wish to download from the carousel, then click on the big "Downloads" button, you should then find a link to the appropriate downloads:
> 2 votes

# Answer
Having recently ran into this issues as well on OSX (10.6) here's the solution that worked for me:

* Uninstalled Flash completely
* Re-install the NXT software from the CD
* launch and run

Apparently, only the version of Flash that was used when they developed the software is the one that will work with it. It gets installed with the software if it's not already installed.

That does mean you maybe want to create a separate user account just for running NXT so only that has the older version of Flash.
> 1 votes

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Tags: nxt, mindstorms, nxt-g
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title: Is it legal to sell your mocs?

text:
# Question
Title: Is it legal to sell your mocs?
First off, I assume that it's legal to sell used LEGO bricks and it's also legal to sell self-made LEGO instructions and parts-lists.

As far as I know, there *are* people selling LEGO sets of their MOCs online. But I also witnessed a discussion, where the general consensus was that this would be illegal.

So let's say I build a MOC and want to sell it. Would the following be okay?

1. Selling the exact MOC I've built
2. Selling the parts one would need for the MOC (+ instructions and part-list)
3. Packing the parts and instructions into a self-designed box and selling them

# Answer
Selling used LEGO is definitely legal, at least in most legal systems. One of the most basic property rights involves the right to transfer ownership as long as both parties agree on the terms. Even selling items under copyright (instructions, box art, games, etc) is legal under the first-sale doctrine.

I don't see any reason that any of the 3 things that you listed would be illegal. Here's a similar example which hopefully makes things more clear.

Let's say that someone builds computers and sells them. No one builds a computer from scratch, so the builder has to buy lots of components (CPU, GPU, RAM, hard drive, etc). Although each one of these components is likely covered by hundreds of patents, that doesn't actually matter because the builder bought the right to resell the parts. As someone selling MOCs, you have to buy LEGO bricks to resell. This is a valid use of your property rights.

To address your issues specifically:

1. Selling a MOC you build - This is legal because you are simply selling your own physical property (the used bricks) and your intellectual property (your MOC)
2. Selling the parts one would need for the MOC (+ instructions and part-list) - Again, you have the right to sell the parts. The instructions and part list are your intellectual property, but there may be issues with trademark (e.g. you can't brand it as a TLG authorized set)
3. Packing the parts and instructions into a self-designed box and selling them - This is essentially the same as 2 except with additional intellectual property of your own (box art, etc). Again, it needs to be clear that this isn't an official LEGO set.

In regards to the branding and trademark issues, TLG has a document available which provides a useful set of guidelines to use when referring to LEGO.

To be clear, I'm not a lawyer, and if you're planning to start a business selling packaged LEGO MOCs, you might want to consult a real lawyer first.
> 18 votes

# Answer
In any case, it does happen regularly at key LEGO events, and in plain sight, as well as on the Internet.

Considering LEGO employees (and big bosses) attend these events on a regular basis, if they had a problem with this, they would have said so by now. Obviously, Kjeld Kirk Kristiansen doesn't mind.

Of course, it needs to be very clear what you're actually selling and you certainly don't want to pass it off as if LEGO designed the set, but for the rest there shouldn't be any problem. You can even sell instructions only for a small fee if you so desire.

Note that I'm not saying it is legal, I don't know about that (though I would tend to agree with jncraton on this); rather, I'm saying that LEGO has no problem with it at all as long as you play it fair. Keep in mind there are some people who even create and sell their own parts, and LEGO doesn't go after them either.

One last thing to consider regarding legality however is that you also need to check if what you're building has a copyright on it. Selling a MOC of a Smurf statue, for example, might very well be OK for LEGO, but most certainly not for the Smurf copyright owners.
> 10 votes

# Answer
Given operations like http://www.brickmania.com/ the answer is decidedly yes... as long as you follow certain rules.

Among those rules are NEVER use the actual LEGO logo, and refer to the elements as LEGO® elements.

A somewhat fuzzier rule is that aside from mentioning that genuine LEGO® elements are contained in the product, your product should not be easily confused with an official LEGO® set.

While it does not specifically mention resale, http://aboutus.lego.com/en-us/legal-notice/fair-play/ has some useful information, plus a link to a PDF Fair Play brochure.
> 5 votes

# Answer
I believe generally selling your MOCs would be fine, as other answers have pointed out.

It would be interesting to see what problems you'd come across if you tried to sell other people's MOCs though, which I guess would fall under copyright infringement.
> 1 votes

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Tags: shopping, moc
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title: Why was the 1x1 round brick changed?

text:
# Question
Title: Why was the 1x1 round brick changed?
The first 1x1 round bricks had no lip, just like most bricks:

**Brick, Round 1 x 1 Old - No Bottom Lip**

A lip was then added:

**Brick, Round 1 x 1 Solid Stud**

Why?

Later, a hole was added in the stud:

**Brick, Round 1 x 1 Open Stud**

Was that to prevent choking, as in some minifig heads?

# Answer
The full-base 1x1 round bricks were produced from 1955 until 1963, during the period when LEGO pieces were made from cellulose acetate (CA) plastic, but were sold until about 1966. According to Gary Istok's *Unofficial LEGO Sets/Parts Collector's Guide* the solid-stud full-base 1x1 round brick was only ever made from CA plastic. After the supply of them ran out, a new design was adopted with the "tapered" bottom and made from ABS plastic. (Chapter 51, p. 3)

The reason for the change may have had something to do with the fact that the old full-bottom bricks did not grip very well. Also, the tapered-bottom bricks not only fit over a regular stud but fit in between top studs, making them more versatile than the older style.

The hole in the stud appeared about 1977 and was in response to product-safety regulations. Other cylindrical pieces like minifig heads were also given stud holes. This was because it was thought cylindrical pieces were more likely to completely plug a nostril or throat. The solid-stud minifig head has made a comeback recently, however, as these regulations have changed.
> 15 votes

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Tags: piece-information
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# Question
Title: Easy way to get the weight of a Bricklink order
Is there an easy way to estimate, to the nearest 100 g (or so) the weight of a shopping cart in Bricklink so that I can estimate the shipping charge (sellers may quote ranges such as "250 - 500 g: $X, 500 - 1000 g: $Y" so I wish to stay in a cheaper band if possible)?

I can find out the weight of a type of brick (such as this) but summing by hand is a chore. Just wondering as it already has all the necessary info...

# Answer
> 8 votes
Click on the MyBrickLink tab on the top row, then My Settings in the second row of tabs, then the My Shopping Settings link. Check the box next to "Show Weight in Shopping Cart". Then, when you view a cart full of items in a particular BrickLink store, scroll to the bottom and it should tell you the calculated total weight.

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Tags: piece-information, shopping, bricklink
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# Question
Title: How can I make a mosaic from a given number of 1x1 bricks and a picture?
This question is similar to How can I convert an image's pixels to actual LEGO colors? except that I need to fit a certain number of bricks of a certain colour.

For example, I have 20 white, 28 yellow, 10 orange, 18 red and 24 black (colours listed in increasing darkness) 1x1 bricks and a greyscale 10x10 pixel photo. How can I manipulate the photo so that it shows the 20 brightest pixels in white, next 28 in yellow and so on until the darkest 24 in black? If there is a tie, for example, the 19th, 20th and 21st brightest pixel have the same brightness, it highlights the ties and tells me that two of them should be white and one should be yellow.

Bonus: The above uses a 1-dimensional algorithm, but how can I have a 2-dimensional (or more one)? For example, if I have 10 white, 20 yellow, 30 blue and 40 black 1x1 bricks, and an image with shades of yellow, green and blue, the program should assign the most yellowish greens to yellow bricks (or white/black for brightest/darkest ones) and bluish greens to blue bricks (or white/black for brightest/darkest ones).

# Answer
In case anyone familiar with JavaScript is interested, I wrote this script (tested in Firefox 19) which lets the user specify the number of tiles (bricks) of each colour and browse for an image file with the same number of pixels.

The luma (brightness) of each pixel is ranked and assigned one of the listed colours. Any ties are arbitrarily assigned to either possible colour (as JavaScript's sort is unstable).

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/55/Mona\_Lisa\_headcrop.jpg/20px-Mona\_Lisa\_headcrop.jpg is an image which fits the example tile count.

```
<html>
 <head><title>Make mosaic given tile colour count</title></head>
 <body><form onSubmit="return false;">
  <textarea id="counts" rows="3" cols="80">// Ordered from darkest to lightest
colours = [ '#000000', '#993300', '#cc0000', '#ff9900', '#ffff00', '#ffffff' ];
tiles   = [       110,        40,        80,        60,       120,        90 ];
tileWidth = tileHeight = 16;</textarea><br />
  <input type="file" id="file" size="80" />
  <img id="img" align="top" /><br />
  <input type="button" value="Go!" onClick="loadImage()" /><br /><br />
  <canvas id="canvas" style="background:#808080;border:2px groove;"></canvas>
  <script>
var tileWidth = 16, tileHeight = 16, colours, tiles;
// Based on http://jsfiddle.net/fWLJ9/
var canvas  = document.getElementById('canvas');
var context = canvas.getContext('2d');
var img     = document.getElementById('img');
var imgData;
function loadImage() {
 var url = window.URL || window.webkitURL;
 var src = url.createObjectURL(document.getElementById('file').files[0]);
 img.src = src;
 img.onload = function() {
  resizeCanvas();
  context.drawImage(img, 0, 0);
  url.revokeObjectURL(src);
  imgData = context.getImageData(0, 0, img.width, img.height).data;
  makeMosaic();
 }
}
function resizeCanvas() {
 canvas.width  = img.width  * tileWidth  - 1;
 canvas.height = img.height * tileHeight - 1;
}
function makeMosaic() {
 // Check counts are correct
 eval(document.getElementById('counts').value);
 var count = 0;
 for (var i = 0; i < colours.length; ++i) { count += tiles[i]; }
 if (count != img.width * img.height) {
  alert(img.width * img.height + ' pixels but ' + count + ' tiles!');
  return;
 }
 // Read pixels' luma
 var lumas = new Array();
 for (var y = 0; y < img.height; ++y) {
  for (var x = 0; x < img.width; ++x) {
   lumas.push({ x:x, y:y, luma:getPixelLuma(x, y) });
  }
 }
 // Sort in ascending order
 lumas.sort(function(a, b) { return a.luma - b.luma });
 // Assign pixels to colours
 resizeCanvas();
 count = 0;
 for (var i = 0; i < colours.length; ++i) {
  context.fillStyle = colours[i];
  for (var j = 0; j < tiles[i]; ++j) {
   context.fillRect(lumas[count].x * tileWidth, lumas[count].y * tileHeight,
                    tileWidth - 1, tileHeight - 1);
   ++count;
  }
 }
}
function getPixelLuma(x, y) {
 var pixelOffset = (x + y * img.width) * 4;
 return (0.21 * imgData[pixelOffset] + 0.72 * imgData[pixelOffset + 1] +
         0.07 * imgData[pixelOffset + 2]).toFixed(2);
}
  </script>
 </form></body>
</html>

```
> 6 votes

---
Tags: software, colour, mosaic
---


# Question
Title: Why does the pin recess on the Technic turntable continue to the edge of the part?
Here's the part in question (2955):

While Technic parts typically have a recess to allow the ends of pins to be flush with the surface, this part (and perhaps others) carry this recess all the way to the edge of the part in a U shape.

I looked through instructions from a few sets to see if I could figure out if there was any utility to this, but I wasn't able to find anything. Here's an example of the part used in the Mobile Crane (8460):

Is the some purpose to this design, or is this just a quirk of this part?

# Answer
As suggested by bumbumfish, it is indeed required by the molding process to be able to remove the part from the mold. This does exist in many other parts, such as Technic frames:

The alternative is a mold with moving parts, but this is more expensive, and can't be used anyway where there is not enough room for the mechanism (e.g. inside frames).
> 12 votes

---
Tags: piece-information
---


# Question
Title: Best sensor for balancing inverted pendulum
I want to build a balancer for an inverted pendulum. Which of the following sensors is best suited for detecting the tilt?

* Accelerometer
* Gyroscope
* Angle sensor

# Answer
As you say yourself, you want to detect the tilt of the pendulum rod, so I'm assuming what you're after is actually its angle. Measuring anything else would probably result in tedious calculations anyway; and in addition, considering you'll want to try to keep the angle in a specific range, you'll need to know it.

As such, an angle sensor may seems the most logical choice; but a gyroscopic sensor will not only offer you the angle, but some indication of the current rotation speed as well, which will be useful if you want to mimic the behaviour of a servomechanism.

However, these two sensors are single-axis only, which means that if you want the rod to be able to swing in more than one dimension, you'll have to use one sensor per axis, which may prove cumbersome to build. In that case, the acceleration sensor is probably better.

All in all, all 3 sensors are probably usable somehow, but it really depends on what exactly it is you want to build, and what you've tried so far. I'd also recommend searching for similar projects; for example, there are numerous NXT "segway" robots out there, and there's a detailed tutorial on how to build one with a gyroscopic sensor. Note that the feat seems to be possible even using a simple color sensor to detect ground proximity instead of knowing the exact angle.
> 4 votes

---
Tags: nxt, mindstorms, building
---


title: How do I unlock the daily surprises?

text:
# Question
Title: How do I unlock the daily surprises?
I got a lego star wars 2012 advent calendar (9509), and on the back it say "unlock a surprise every day", and it says to go to legostarwars.com, and there's a code on the back of the advent calendar flap, but when I go to legostarwars.com, it redirects(?) me to a lego star wars III clone wars game experience, and I don't know where to enter the code. Where am I supposed to enter the code?

# Answer
> 7 votes
That is not the URL you're looking for ;)

Apparently you need to enter the codes on the LEGO.com Star Wars Advent Calendar page.

# Answer
> 0 votes
The codes are:

```
obiwan:MYONLYHOPE

GREEDO:HESHOTFIRST

HAN SOLO: NERFHERDER

leia:YOURWORSHIPFULNESS

VADER:MOSTIMPRESSIVE

SIDIOUS:DARKSIDE

LANDO:CLOUDCITYGAMBLER

BOBA:SARLACCFOOD

LUKE:KISSEDMYSISTER

CHEWBACCA:LETTHEWOOKIEEWIN

SAVAGE OPRESS:OPPRESSIVEMAUL

```

---
Tags: star-wars, advent-calendar
---


# Question
Title: Does the LEGO company actively follow or copy clone bricks?
What does The LEGO group do to follow clone brands? Do they buy at least one of every set produced by The Other Guys?

I'm more interested about what the LEGO company does to keep up with what competitors are putting out, and whether or not they might decide to incorporate new elements in their own product line. We always consider that clone brands copy LEGO bricks, but does the opposite happen?

# Answer
In my opinion, LEGO must follow clone brands very closely, and this for a number of reasons.

The first, which is obvious and has already been mentioned, is that they want to protect their own intellectual property. As such, they'll want to take legal action as soon as possible when one of their trademarks/copyrights is infringed.

The second one is actually also about intellectual property, although not their own. Indeed, while LEGO is usually considered as the leader in the field of interlocking bricks, it can indeed happen that a competitor creates something new, which LEGO might not have considered. That would be where you would suggest that LEGO should "keep up", but in reality most of the time it's exactly the contrary: since they may not infringe on the competitor's own intellectual property, they won't be able to imitate them.

So saying that design decisions can be made independently of what other manufacturers are doing is, in my own opinion, utterly false. I can't imagine a field of business where you can completely ignore what your competitors are doing, just because you believe you're ahead of them, and if you do, you're either very cocky, or very naive.

Note I'm talking about serious competitors like MegaBloks, not the one who just copy badly everything LEGO makes. MegaBloks, for example, does have interesting parts (for example, plates with studs on both sides, *Plate 1 x 2 connector, male:male* and *Plate 2 x 2 connector, male:male*). These parts are interesting and many LEGO builders would like to have them, but it's unlikely LEGO would be willing to produce them now that MegaBloks has. Of course, I'm no lawyer and I understand copyright law may be much more intricate than that (there are parts which both companies produce, for example), but I'm confident this is a valid concern in the design process.
> 6 votes

---
Tags: compatibility, lego-group, 3rd-party, clone-brands
---


# Question
Title: Options for sorting old and new versions of colors
I'm working on sorting my LEGO collection. I'm sorting by part then color, with colors mixed when it makes sense (e.g. black is separated out, but medium blue and dark red are together). I'm trying to figure out what to do with similar colors, and I'm curious what most AFOLs do with them. These are the colors that I'm trying to figure out:

* Light Grey / Light Bluish Grey
* Dark Grey / Dark Bluish Grey
* Brown / Reddish Brown

I know that some people just put the similar colors together, but I find that I usually don't like how they look together in a build. I also don't think that my collection is large enough at this point to justify separating all six of those colors out separately.

# Answer
> 7 votes
I too think you answered yourself partially.

You don't want 6 separate containers for these colors, which seems sensible; but on the other hand you admit yourself you mix some other colors when they are easily distinguished. Which I fully agree on: the first sort you should make is by part type anyway, and only afterward, if you have too much of a part, you may want to split the heap by colors - but not necessarily all colors, since your goal there is just to split a big heap to keep it manageable.

So how do you decide which colors to put together? Again, you hinted at it yourself: colors that are too similar are best separated. So you'll for example have a container with black, yellow and red parts (guess which country I'm from ;-)), and another with dark blue, orange and white.

Another possible option is if there is one color which is predominant: if I have, for example, 1000 1x2 blue bricks, while I have only 500 of 1x2 bricks of all other colors combined, then maybe setting the blue apart make sense. And even then, the best is probably to set 900-950 aside, even in a ziploc bag, and put the remainder with the other colors. The ziplog bag will probably stay unopened until I get a project which requires a massive amount of 1x2 blue bricks. (Actually, it's a real example, I did exactly that, and ended up using the blues for a smooth river)

So what does this leave you with the old/new color issue? Simple: you make two containers, labeled "old" (with Light Grey, Dark Grey, and Brown) and "new" (Light Bluish Grey, Dark Bluish Grey, Reddish Brown). That way, you have no problem knowing if it's old or new, and mixing these three colors shouldn't be a problem.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Seems like you've answered your own question (for now) by saying that you don't think your collection is big enough to justify such sorting.

On the other hand, one might suppose that your collection will eventually get to that size, at which point, you'll have to decide if you need to separate them for storage, or if sorting while building is 'good enough'. They are certainly easy enough to discriminate when side by side...

# Answer
> 1 votes
I'm going through the sorting process right now and I've gone with the following compromise:

* Old light grey and new light grey are sorted separately because they are hard to distinguish at times, yet clearly different most of the time.
* Old dark grey and new dark grey go together, because I don't have enough of either to justify a separate box, and they are easy to tell apart under just about any lighting.
* Old brown and new brown go together, because I have a hard time telling them apart in just about any lighting except full sun. I will re-visit this decision later if it turns out to be a problem.

Don't forget to leave room in the boxes for the new colours to grow. The old colours probably won't grow, so Joubarc's suggestion to sort all old together and all new together is a good compromise too.

---
Tags: organisation
---


title: Strongest gear configuration

text:
# Question
Title: Strongest gear configuration
I'm building a (what I hope to be) high-speed car using two PF-XL motors together and some gearing up. However, there's a point where I have to rotate the axle with power (that comes from the 3 speed gearbox) 90 degrees to line it with the wheels (this is probably a long way around the barn to say it in english, but I got a picture to fill my lack of words). This is what I want to do:

*(the position of the gears is incorrect: in my project the 8t gear would be one hole to the left)*

My question is, assuming the structure holding the wheels is solid and won't bulge, what's the best gears to use so that they won't snap?

So far I've considered four combinations:

* The same as the image, except the 8t is a 16t
* The fat 20t with the fat 12t
* The skinny 20t with the skinny 12t (this one doesn't actually work for me unless I do some changes to the car)
* Two of those 4t gears that aren't very smooth

It stands to reason that the last option is the strongest because they don't snap unless they break apart. However, they're more suited to low speeds. With high speeds they aren't fluid at all and make a lot of noise. But my biggest problem with them is that they sometimes get stuck (the gear without power sometimes stops in a position where it blocks the gear with power and when the motors start again they can't rotate - this is really bugging me).

So, excluding the last option, what do you think?

# Answer
> 5 votes
I would tend to recommend some options which you didn't consider yet: using bevel gears, but actually use a combination of two gear on each axle: a 12t one (the thin one, as you say), and behind it, a 20t one (there you can use a fat one, which will probably be better).

Another option is to use a worm screw, which will also allow you to change the direction of the axle, but which makes the axles non coplanar.

But it really depends on a variety of factors. Gear reduction is one (keeping in mind it has implications on torque, but frankly I'm already way over my head here so I won't tackle that aspect); but torque transmission is another, and so is strength/reliability.

For example, the knob wheel that you did mention has some uses, as it practically can't slip, but at the cost of lower torque transmitted (or something). Worm screws again have another particularity which is unique to them in that they can transfer torque only one way, which also has its uses (locking a mechanism in place).

And then don't forget that the gears aren't all there is to say: sticking your gears closer to the beams will help, as will replacing the two separate beams by an actual frame. You can also make sure one of the axles goes all the way to the other side of the frame.

And last thing, if you're going to transfer power to two wheels, don't forget to use a differential between them (not sure the new one is very solid though).

---
Tags: gears
---


# Question
Title: How hard is it to get a job within the LEGO company, straight out of university as a graduate?
How hard is it to get a job at the LEGO company?

Being fresh out of university as a graduate of mathematics, I'm specifically interested in answers on if and how LEGO hires graduates.

# Answer
> 8 votes
LEGO has a list of open positions which you can consult. As far as I understand, the application process starts there and you have to register a profile to apply for positions. Some positions also list a direct point of contact who can answer questions on the specific position (usually the boss-to-be, I suppose).

I'm not sure where a mathematics background might be useful within LEGO, but I don't know the full organization by far, and there are certainly some positions where it's going to be useful. In any case, don't be too afraid by all requirements listed for given positions, they don't necessarily mean that someone isn't suited for the job. But that's probably a discussion for another site.

Of course, jobs for which experience is required will probably be out of your reach, unless you do have experience in the required domain. For example, you could very well be a good LEGO builder already and have a chance for a design job.

But the good news is that LEGO seems to be willing to attract young talents, in particular in the IT sector. I remember seeing recently a "job position" which was in fact some sort of one-day seminar for young graduates, so that they could see what the life at LEGO is. There are also open positions which specifically mention students.

In any case, enthusiasm about the LEGO brand is certainly useful, and of course you'll probably have to devote some thinking time about where you're willing to work and live, especially considering most central positions are in specific countries, with Denmark being the most important.

---
Tags: lego-group
---


# Question
Title: What are the essential resources for learning the fundamentals of LEGO building?
After years of buying and building LEGO sets, my six-year-old son is tearing through the first level of the Master Builder Academy. He's fascinated by micro-building, and generally seems liberated after learning some of the fundamentals of LEGO design and building.

There are so many books and blogs, but many of them just show (fantastic) finished projects. I'm looking for the best published material (of any era), websites and individual blog posts that teach techniques and ways of thinking about building with LEGO -- that show *and* tell.

# Answer
> 12 votes
I'd particularly recommend The Unoffical LEGO Builder's Guide. It covers all of the basics and gets into many of the more complex building techniques.

If you're interested in getting right into the details, The Unofficial LEGO Advanced Building Techniques Guide by Didier Enjary covers a wide variety of building techniques and is freely available. I don't know a lot about this document, but I first came across it on The Brothers Brick.

# Answer
> 10 votes
I highly recommend the LEGO Ideas Book by DK Publishing. It shows several building techniques and ideas for projects and it is full of full color large pictures and building steps for several of the projects. Also, all the LEGO books by No Starch Press. They are more advanced, but with the speed your son is going he might enjoy them. Get one and see how he likes it and then get the others.

# Answer
> 7 votes
Don't forget the most important resource: LEGO parts.

In my opinion, there will be a point later on where you will want to consider whether offering yet another book is worth it versus spending the same amount on bricks.

In my opinion, this is a key factor when you'll want the creative design process to successfully shift from printed documentation to your son's brain - you'll want him to be able to come with his own ideas too. Of course, this may not be for now, but don't forget to ask him from time to time if he prefers more books or more bricks.

---
Tags: building
---


# Question
Title: Setting priorities in LEGO NXT Programmer
For a sumo bot competition I made a robot that has a perfectly functioning ultrasonic senor. However, when I made a second branch on the program for a light sensor, I calibrated the light sensor and when I set it over the line so the robot would move correctly, it does not respond as expected.

My thoughts are that it has to do something with the priorities of the branches. How do I set the light sensor branch to have a higher priority over the ultrasonic sensor branch? I would like it to work so that when the light sensor doesn't detect something in the specified range of intensity that it goes to the ultrasonic sensor branch and go to the light sensor branch if an intensity inside the specified range it goes to the light sensor branch at a high frequency of resolution.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Branches run simultaneously. If you want to pause a branch until a certain sensor condition is met, use a Wait block.

---
Tags: programming, nxt-g
---


title: Can I take an old LEGO winch apart?

text:
# Question
Title: Can I take an old LEGO winch apart?
I have an old LEGO winch that looks like #73037

It has been "restrung" but it is very stiff and it looks like it has some of the old string stuck between the rotating and non-rotating parts. It also feels a bit gritty so there might be dirt stuck in there.

It looks like the top on each side might come off and if so I would be able to remove the stuck string and clean it.

Does anyone have any advice about taking it apart without damaging it?

# Answer
You just can't. This part is fused together with sound-waves so it doesn't separate anymore.

Source and more info: fusing Lego together
> 5 votes

---
Tags: piece-information, cleaning, disassembly
---


title: NXT Bluetooth "Failed!" when turning on

text:
# Question
Title: NXT Bluetooth "Failed!" when turning on
When I attempt to turn on my bluetooth, the response on the display after about 5 seconds is "Failed!" Then I'm sent back to the main menu.

I've reset the unit and updated to latest firmware (1.31) to no avail.

I'm curious about the "doomsday" button on the inside of the battery compartment--you have to remove a battery to push it (thus the unit is not powered up if you push it by accident), so it obviously could cause significant issues if it is pressed. I am an electronics tech--I know what to do to power it up and press the button, but there is no reference to what it is there for, so the little voice of reason says, "don't."

Thanks!

--Lamafozzy

# Answer
The hidden button under the NXT battery seems to be a reset button, which has to be pressed for 7 seconds to have any effects. I assume it resets the brick in its factory condition, but I didn't find any specific documentation from LEGO on it.

However, there was an issue a few years back which caused the brick to freeze and click permanently (which was called the "NXT Click of Death"); and the solution included a hard reset using that button. (It's just one out of many pages on the subject, by the way)

Will this solve your Bluetooth issue? I don't know. If there's a problem with your firmware, then it's possible, since you'll need to reflash one anyway (since it will be reset to factory settings). Maybe trying alternate firmwares might shed some light on your brick's condition, too.

If that doesn't solve it, I would advise to contact the mindstorms customer support \- worst case scenario, they establish your NXT brick is indeed defective, and they'll probably provide you a replacement.
> 3 votes

---
Tags: nxt, mindstorms, bluetooth
---


# Question
Title: Set to run a program within another program using NXT-G
I'm using NXT-G to program my robot to do few tasks autonomously for so many possibilities. When using C programming, we can call a function from different file into the main program. So, I wonder if it is possible to write a program that can run another program for one possibility and run another program for other possibility?

# Answer
> 4 votes
As far as I remember there is no possibility within NXT-G to programmatically execute another program. Moreover, as I understand it the default firmware simply doesn't have that possibility (the command to start a program is a direct command which must be sent via bluetooth and can't be used in a program). Maybe other programming languages using other firmware can do it, but I don't know about that.

However, you could encapsulate certain parts of your program in your own blocks, which I would say are similar to C functions. As such, it will simplify your main program, and you can reuse blocks in different programs (but the blocks themselves are included in the program file, it's not like a library which would be a different file). You should probably read a tutorial on how to make your own blocks to decide if it's a valid solution for you.

---
Tags: programming, nxt-g
---


title: Useful machines built with LEGO

text:
# Question
Title: Useful machines built with LEGO
I am looking for examples of useful machines built with LEGO (probably Technics, NXT etc.). There are many fun project examples and proofs of concept, such as a Rubik cube solver and a Turing machine.

Do you know any examples of LEGO machines that simplify some actual task or where should I look for examples?

# Answer
Here are some examples that caught my attention in the last years:

1. Cambridge scientists are using LEGO Mindstorms in their lab instead of a professional robot, saving them large amounts of money.
2. The Kno tablet development team is using a LEGO rig to perform automated stress tests on their devices.
3. University of Southhampton is using LEGO bricks as the structural frame for a cheaper supercomputer (warning: they use the word *legos*).
4. Building custom encasing for electronics like this monster three-motherboard PC.
5. For automatic milling and sculpting, there are also plenty of examples of LEGO CNC machines. They can be used to prototype parts, make molds, etc. Here's one.
6. A loom machine to produce usable weaved cloths — pictures, video.
7. Pheromone Labs is using LEGO Mindstorms 2.0 to perform automated tests of a tablet app — link, video.
8. Low-cost nanoscope at UCL (news, main page)
9. Handling insect specimens (link)
10. UV-Vis spectrometer (Link)
11. Braille Printer (Link)
> 27 votes

# Answer
It depends a lot how you distinguish *useful* from proof of concept.

* I think this clock could be useful (or at least be fun): http://tiltedtwister.com/. The website even provides building instructions. However it will be noisy, expensive and take a lot of time (and fun) to build, which will make it less useful for a lot of people.
* There's a super computer rack for 64 Raspberry Pis built from lego: http://www.southampton.ac.uk/~sjc/raspberrypi
* I'm using only 4 bricks as additional feets for my keyboard, everyday at work. So this is probably the most useful thing I can think of. Things do not have to be rocket science to be useful.
> 10 votes

# Answer
Lego Antikythera Mechanism can be seen at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLPVCJjTNgk

The Antikythera Mechanism: http://bit.ly/fm4oFK is the oldest known scientific computer, built in Greece at around 100 BCE. Lost for 2000 years, it was recovered from a shipwreck in 1901. But not until a century later was its purpose understood: an astronomical clock that determines the positions of celestial bodies with extraordinary precision. In 2010, we built a fully-functional replica out of Lego.
> 6 votes

# Answer
**I once built an NXT robot that opened and closed a set of blinds.**

The blinds had a rod that you could spin to open and close them, and the rod had a hole at the end, which made it pretty easy to hook up to a mindstorms motor.

I made two different versions. One version was a "clapper" - with a microphone sensor, and one was a smarter version, that used a light sensor. The light sensor was positioned on the outside of the blinds. When the sun came up, it would open the blinds, and when the sun went down, it would close them.

I could have combined them together - in fact, I was planning to do that - but then I decided to use the NXT unit for some other projects instead.
> 4 votes

# Answer
It depends how you define machine.

I've used a static rig as a phone holder on a desk. I've built small tools for pushing Lego pins out when constructing Lego models. I've built innumerable machines for demonstrating principles of physics, engineering and structure.

If someone has dominoes as a hobby, then there is a Lego domino setting machine - http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player\_embedded&v=de4xdOVVROQ.

I've seen an NXT being used to tidy Lego bricks - although that may have been more proof of concept as it could only cope with bricks below a certain size, it would use a rotor to sweep the bricks (And anything else) into a rear hopper.

I've also seen brick sorters - for those who like to color sort their Lego (I used to do this) these can be handy.
> 3 votes

---
Tags: robotic
---


title: Colouring bricks with the sun

text:
# Question
Title: Colouring bricks with the sun
This question is related to How do I change the color of a brick? and the exact opposite of How to minimise or remove sun-stains/fading from blocks?

Is it feasible to artificially age bricks in sunlight to get new colours? For example, I noticed that white bricks turn into various shades of off-white.

Are there any unwanted side effects of doing this, for example, bricks becoming fragile?

How long would the process take in general, if I put them outside all day in a reflective box?

Finally, is there a chart which shows which colours turn into what?

# Answer
> 9 votes
In general the colors would take on a yellowish hue. The colors that are most damaged by sunlight are white and blue. White can turn all the way to dark tan, and blue will take on an ugly yellowish color. On the other hand red would fade into pink. But again; the sun does damage the bricks. They will turn brittle and somewhat powdery, like all plastics do.

If you want to change the color of LEGO bricks I recommend vinyl-dye that fuses with the plastic so there is no build-up and it won't scratch off easily. There is a limited color choice, but this is an excellent way to change the color if you really have to. My favorite brand is Plasti-kote Vinyl Color available at auto-supply stores. Quite expensive though and hard to find. Another brand is Krylon Fusion for Plastic, readily available at Wal-Mart and other places. The fusing is not nearly as good as with Plasti-kote, but it is still quite durable. The price is better and there are more color choices.

Another method would be using RIT dye (use the powdered form not the liquid), but I don't like this method as much because although the colors can turn out nice (they are pastel colors - kind of like what you find in LEGO Friends sets), but they do fade with age.

If you want to try the sun-method, just place outside some cheap elements and you will see what happens. Please note that the colors will continue to turn darker (in the case of white) even after you removed them from the sun. Kind of like how a sunburn continues to get worse even after you go in the shade...(c;

# Answer
> 1 votes
LEGO once used a brominated fire retardant in its ABS plastic. UV light causes bromine pairs in the compound to split and reconnect with oxygen atoms, taking on the brownish hue of elemental bromine.

Fire retardants containing bromine - known as PBDEs - are now considered toxic and many large companies have voluntarily stopped using them. The EU has banned the use of some bromine compounds in plastics. Some US states have also regulated them. I do not find any information online specifically about PBDEs in LEGO, but I believe LEGO may no longer use these compounds. I do not know when they might have stopped.

So if you want to intentionally give LEGO pieces that aged brown look, you will want to use older pieces sure to contain the bromine. Sunlight will work most quickly, but any UV light will do.

---
Tags: colour, customization
---


# Question
Title: Simplest approach for rail sets automation
How would you tackle the automation of a lego rails set. I am looking for a solution that can be achieved with available parts.

From the answer I will chose either to invest into lego rail sets for my son or into digital H0 sets.

What I am looking for:

* start given engine and run to given destination, stop.
* when approaching a rails crossing stop if segment busy.
* change switches for engine to send to destination.
* run multiple engines independently and concurrently.

Optionally:

* if multiple routes are available sent train to free route.
* if train is running low on power send to service station.

I am not interested in setting timings. I want to be able to simply run the different engines each on their own. This requires detectors which are able to return the ID of the engine entering and leaving the different segments.

I'm pretty good at programming and I would appreciate a doable solution running from a computer.

# Answer
> 7 votes
I've wanted to do something similar since I took part in a public event last year and we had trains running continuously on separate little ovals. My ambition was to have two stations, each with some switches, and run one train at a time between them and switch it to an empty track where it would stop.

Since I already had two RCXs, my solution was to place one at either station with light sensors to detect incoming and outgoing trains. I motorized the switches (using a modified version of instructions I found online - I could make some instructions if you wish), and wrote a program that allows the RCXs to communicate with each other about the state of the trains and the switches.

There were two tricky parts: one is that although you can send PF commands from an RCX, there is no feedback from the PF receiver so you'll have to resend the command several times and hope for the best. The other is that the communication between the RCXs is affected by the PF commands. When you send a PF command, the receiver in the RCX will end up in a state where the next serial byte is lost, and although there is collision detection for the communication between the RCXs, there is nothing similar for the PF commands (the sending of which requires the disabling of all interrupts on the RCX).

My solution was to design a protocol for communication between the two RCXs such that they, in effect, negotiate whose turn it is to send PF commands and stay silent when the other RCX is sending. This worked very well in my living room, where the trains would happily run and stop and be handed back and forth between the two RCXs (since you can't easily ID the trains, you have to *know* where they are). I then tried to set this up at an event, but unfortunately the room was anything but compatible with PF. Possibly because of the fluorescent lights, the PF IR range was severely limited and the trains would not receive the signals from the RCXs.

A solution based on NXT (or EV3) could probably be a lot more powerful and reliable, especially since you'll have much better ways of detecting the trains. Even so, I suspect they'd run into the same problems in some showrooms as my RCX solution.

# Answer
> 6 votes
LEGO trains are primarily toys, and the recent ones aren't even using metallic rails.

As such, they're usually considered ill-suited for automation purposes. That doesn't mean it's impossible, but it'll prove challenging. In any case, you'll definitely need some computing, so it's good that it's OK with you.

For trains themselves, sticking to available parts will be an issue. PF trains are supposed to be remote controlled via RC and have no awareness of the track of or anything at all. The problem you'll have here si to make sure that whatever signal you send, the train will receive it. Some your RC emitters need to be very well placed, and the bigger your layout, the more this is going to be a problem. Forget about tunnels. And your number of trains is limited, too.

You'll probably need to use a Mindstorms Kit and an IR Link Sensor; the NXT itself can be programmed directly or easily controlled by a computer.

Since you'll be using Mindstorms, sensing trains shouldn't be too much of a problem, either with available sensors (not sure which one would be best though) or by making your own (a reed sensor on the track usually detects LEGO train magnets if there are 2 or more of them together); but you'll be limited by the number of sensors you can plug on a NXT. You can of course use several, or grab some sensor multiplexers. When using Reed sensors, you'll probably hav enough with touch sensor multiplexers.

So far, you see using only standard material (and admitting HiTechnics or other third-party vendors as such) is already becoming a complex solution - feasible, certainly, but not cheap either. And we haven't touched switches yet - not that it's complicated to motorize, but if using NXT motors, it's going to take some place.

In the past, some people have had some success transforming 9V trains for DCC, but I wouldn't consider 9V trains as available any more, and this solution does also require a lot of work and good understanding of DCC and whatnot. I have none of this, so I won't talk much more about it, except to say that this usually doesn't address the problem of switches either, and that you'll need a lot of non-LEGO stuff to make it all work.

In short, I think you can do a lot of fun automation even with current trains, but if you want a complete solution right from the start, LEGO may not be the best suited for that. On the other hand, the challenge of making it work may be a greater experience for you and your son, so I'd advise trying anyway. You can start with simple things, keeping the most complicated things (switches) for later.

One other thing you can do to simplify is make sure that the layout itself is simple. For instance, you can have a single track with a train going back and forth (mimicking the good old 4,5V system shouldn't be hard with a PF Polarity Switch, and that by itself adds a lot of movement to an existing layout, without actually requiring any automation at all.

# Answer
> 4 votes
LDCC provides a lego solution if you are willing to look for 9V track and modify the motors. There are an endless number of things you can do combining DCC and Mindstorms NXT amoung other things. It really has a lot to do with how much time you personally want to invest. It doesn't matter if it is HO or L(LEGO) scale, they both require a large investment of time to get good results. I have both HO and L scale experience. The LEGO train club I am part of has all kinds of lighting, sound, and action in the exhibits, including light rail that stops at platforms and multiple trains on the same track.

The long and short of it is that LEGO will require more initial investment, but it can do the same things as HO except it is infinitely more reusable. I use LEGO my father used as a child, I am sure my daughter will play with mine when she is old enough. Once something is made in HO, it is very hard to unmake it, but LEGO can be a new creation every day.

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Tags: trains, automation
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# Question
Title: What are the size of Lego Technic Parts?
I'm creating a LEGO Mindstorms catalogue for a school project. I measured the LEGO parts and I made an average size. My goal is to create new parts with a Rapid prototyping machine and I wanted to make sure that I used the good dimension.

# Answer
> 4 votes
I don't know where you got that image, but you could always try and print the brick using the dimensions shown.

Using the brick (#32316) shown in your example it might be possible to produce a 3D model using the 32316.dat file that's available in the LDraw library. The next problem would be placing the brick in a model and exporting it as a file type that is actually compatible with CAD software.

I'm not sure how accurate the bricks in the LDraw library are as they're primarily for illustration purposes as digital models.

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Tags: technic, customization, size
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# Question
Title: Why does Lego restrict the number of colors per shape?
There are many shapes and many colors of Lego elements. Some color/shapes are rare and hard to find. Why does Lego restrict the number of colors available per shape?

# Answer
The problem isn't with molding machines, but with storage. Every distinct *element* (part/colour combination) has to be stored until it's no longer going to be used in production; presumably some are stored for spare parts and other ancillary uses.

The robotic warehouse has only a certain number of slots (a mere 0.5 million), so there's only so many different combinations that can be held at any one time. To make space for a new element, another needs to be retired - and retired plastic is wasted plastic. And waste costs money, and businesses hate that.

There's another force at play here too: pretty much every set has at least one element that is unique to that set - it seems to be not so much as a business rule, as business very firm guideline. The economic implication is that if the value of the non-unique elements in a set is $10 and the set sells for $12, it doesn't mean the set is overpriced; instead, it implies the unique element has a inherent value of $2. Harmony is restored to the LEGO secondary market. This business logic can be used to explain why licensed sets are often much worse value per brick than non-licensed - each unique minifig adds over-the-odds value. Perhaps this stretches credulity too far?

The best argument for having one unique element per set is: *without a unique element, it's conceivable that someone could build this LEGO set with **pieces they already own!***

Few of the molds LEGO uses are running 24/7. Swapping out molds takes about three hours, during which the molding machine (one of 64) is inactive and you have expensive European labour fussing over a machine. Swapping colours, on the other hand, isn't such a big deal. Stop the plastic flow, empty the mold and remove the capture box, flow the new colour for a while until the old colour's properly flushed, then start capturing this new colour (toss all the parts molded in two colours at once into the recycling bin).

I'm hoping it's obvious why you've got to store different colours of the same part separately. I'm also hoping you can remember that LEGO makes quite a few copies of each set it sells, so that box of purple 1x4 curved slopes you see above isn't actually all that many from TLG's point of view. They have to mold every part for a given set they're going to sell, then store them all prior to assembling them in a batch. The vast bulk of LEGO is sold around Christmas, and they don't warehouse a vast amount of the completed sets (you've seen how much air is in a box of LEGO), just enough to keep the channels flowing. Basically, they've got to be able to store a good portion of the whole year's production, because they can - and do - assemble bricks into sets faster than they can be molded.

As an aside, this is why LUGBulk runs early in the year, when they know what they've got too much of lying around and are comfortable that there aren't going to be any production shocks.

Production planning is done well in advance. If a particular set turns out to be gangbuster-crazy popular and requires additional production (a recent example: Friends), LEGO can dip into its reserve of parts but the more unique a set (or even line) is, the less likely you are to have those parts in reserve. This is, in fact, an argument against having unique parts - but there's only so many models you can put a bright reddish violet slide into.

As for getting the same slide in other colours... really? You want it in Pearl light gray? In reddish brown? In tan? Remember that LEGO is sold as sets (models), and coincidentally comprises parts in various colours; if a particular part/colour combination isn't necessary to make any of the more than a hundred models marketed in a year, you're not going to see it turn up in the secondary market. Unique elements that turn up in expensive sets are going to be expensive, as those few Bricklink stores that do buy expensive sets for parting out aren't going to buy many of them.
> 15 votes

# Answer
Simply put, because each combination of part AND colour which is currently in production means that there is one machine and one mould devoted to it, and the number of both is finite.

This may be oversimplified, but that's the gist of it. Take for example the new Friends slide which is currently produced in 'bright reddish violet'. If LEGO wanted to produce it in another colour, they have two options:

* make one more mould of the part (these things aren't cheap) and devote one moulding machine to it;
* stop producing it in that colour altogether, clean the mould, and start a new batch.

The second solution wouldn't cost much, but they need to be sure they won't need it in the current colour any longer. This may very well happen, but probably not before 2015.

Again, this may be simplified, but the fact is that LEGO has a finite number of elements in production (again, part and colour) because of production reasons, and they have even been trying to lower that number. So if a designer needs something in a new colour, he has to find a good justification for it.
> 9 votes

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Tags: piece-information
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# Question
Title: What is the true angle of a cheese slope?
What is the true angle of a cheese slope?

Bricklink lists it as "Slope **30** 1 x 1 x 2/3" while LDraw and Peeron list it as "Slope Brick **31** 1 x 1 x 2/3". Why do these sources disagree, and what is the real angle?

# Answer
I guess I could send the question to math.se, but I think we can figure that one out ourselves; it's just a bit of trigonometry after all, right?

Let's see: \- The large side is 20 ldu (standard brick width). \- The small side is 16 ldu (2 plates) - 4 ldu (half a plate), that is 12 ldu (half the height of a brick).

So the angle is tan<sup>-1</sup>(12/20), which is approximately 30,96°. So it's closer to 31, but gives 30 if truncated down.

As for why the sources differ, I couldn't find documentation on the naming process they both use, but I can easily imagine that someone measuring the angle with a simple protractor could be mistaken by a degree. Another possible explanation would be that the people behind the BrickLink naming chose to round the angle down to simplify things, as a 30° angle feels more natural than a 31° one; while LDraw people may be more used to precise measurements and felt that 31° was closer to the truth. Again, this is all pure speculation, I didn't find naming conventions or guidelines for either.
> 14 votes

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Tags: piece-information, slope
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# Question
Title: Factories that could make off-patent bricks?
I'm quite interested in finding a factory that can produce a small-ish run of high-quality plastic bricks that I can use in my classes and possible to re-sell as stand-alone kits. I only need a few different shapes, namely 2x4 bricks and 2x2 bricks, which are off-patent. Does anyone know which factories, other than those owned-by/bound-to LEGO Group, have experience in making LEGO compatible bricks and would likely be open to producing another run?

**Background**

I run Ascendly.com which runs after school programs to teach grade school kids engineering. My flagship course, Jr. Structural Engineering, uses LEGO bricks to build structures and to learn about the engineering process. I only use a few bricks in the course:

* 2x4 bricks
* 2x2 bricks
* 16x32, or larger, baseplates
* 1x2 bricks (optional)
* 1x1 bricks (optional)
* 1x2 45 degree slope (optional)

For any one class, I ensure all of the bricks of a certain size are a consistent and unique color. So, all of my 2x4s would be blue, and all of my 2x2s would be green, for example. This keeps the students focused on the shape of the structures, makes it easier to see how the other students used their blocks, and avoids worrying about color aesthetics.

Buying bricks in bulk of any specific color is problematic.

**Related Question(s):**

**Update** Just to add some context, I have good relationships with my two local LEGO stores, and they've helped me order about 50 pick-a-brick boxes over the last couple of years, but I'm hoping to find a more reliable and scalable source of building blocks. Bricklink and LEGO are good sources for now, but I'm wondering if I find can a high-quality brick at 10x my current volume, something I'm positive the stores, and I suspect the LUGs, aren't in a position to accommodate.

# Answer
Unfortunately, I'm not aware of specific factories that are currently tooled to make compatible bricks that you could get in touch with. I have noticed an eBay user that consistently sells Canadian made compatible basic bricks, so it might be worth contacting them to see if you could work out a deal.

There are also many companies who will do custom ABS injection molding if you can provide them with the CAD files for your design. Because the molds have to be created for your parts, there is a large up-front cost to doing things this way.

Just in case you aren't aware, there are a number of stores on bricklink.com that can source extremely large orders. At the time of writing this, there are several stores which could supply you with over 10,000 red 2x4 bricks, for example, though I'm guessing that may not be sufficient for your needs.
> 3 votes

# Answer
I suggest calling Lego customer service (1-800-835-4386) to ask them about a bulk order. Professional "brick artists" like Nathan Sawaya buy their brick directly from Lego. The bulk prices are decent as well. For example, through the LUGbulk program, we got 2x4 bricks for about 9.6 cents each (these sell for $0.30/ea on the Pick-a-brick website).

Also, here is a long list of manufacturers who can do custom ABS injection molding: http://www.thomasnet.com/nsearch.html?which=prod&cov=NA&what=Custom+Injection+Molded+Plastics&heading=95958385&k=abs&x=16&y=9&navsec=modify
> 8 votes

# Answer
In a recent document about the Pick-A-Brick cups comparisons, there was a segment that caught my eye. (bottom of page 7).

> Official LEGO stores also sell a $70 box of a single piece type. This isn’t something they advertise, but you can ask what they have available and they will sell it to you. It’s also called a “K2 box.” Measuring the volume of this box is irrelevant since they are not packed using strategies (as you can discern from the piece count below by comparing 1x1 brick amounts to 1x2 brick amounts, etc.).

You could try contacting local stores and asking if they have any K2 boxes.
> 3 votes

# Answer
This sounds like something to ask the corporate offices. They may be able to arrange shipments that even the LEGO stores can not. For instance, Thomas Nielson is the VP of manufacturing at TLG http://dk.linkedin.com/in/thomasnielsen?trk=pub-pbmap

If the stores can't get it to you, go to those who supply the stores. It certainly sounds like you generate enough volume.

Just my thoughts...
> 3 votes

# Answer
As you can see from other answers, it may prove easier to try to get genuine LEGO bricks and there are numerous possibilities to do so:

As mentioned in OddTodd's answer, the LUGBulk program may be an option, but you'll need to find a local LUG and convince them of the parts you need. As seen in the comments, limits may be an issue.

Contacting the LEGO customer service is certainly a good way to go, especially if you mention it's for educational purposes. Usually, you should be able to order a large quantity of specific given bricks, but I'm not sure they'll easily apply a bulk discount. Don't forget LEGO has an educational division which might be a better place to start, although I'm not sure they sell bricks separately.

OddTodd also mentioned that LEGO Certified Professional have possibilities to buy parts in bulk, and while it shows LEGO has the possibility of doing so, I think there's a very important underlying point in there: you could contact a LCP yourself and see how he can help you. In addition of providing you material, he could make a visit at your school and talk about LEGO and his work, which may be interesting for the kids.

I can think of two other routes you can try, as there are two other sort of people who have readily access to large quantities of bricks: LEGO shops and LEGOland parks.

LEGO shops have a pick-a-brick wall where you can fill some buckets with whatever bricks are available at the moment. While this will certainly not be interesting for you, you may want to contact the manager and see if they're willing to order bricks specifically for you. One great advantage of this, if they're willing to help (again, mention the educational angle), is that they'll usually be able to buy parts by weight (for instance, 2kg boxes). Asking won't hurt you in any way.

Similarly, LEGOland park designers also have the possibility to order in bulk, but it's of course limited to their needs for the park buildings. However, if you happen to live near one, contacting the manager there might be worth trying, you never know.

One key point in all this is that the parts you need are extremely basic, which means it should be easier for you to convince people to sell them to you. Since a LEGO shop must order boxes of bricks on a regular basis, I'm confident it's the easiest route, as one or two boxes more should be easy for them.

As for the "not-LEGO" option, maybe you could contact the customer service of other existing brands and see what they can do (you could even use that as leverage in your discussion with LEGO, if you're so inclined... I can imagine "But MegaBloks can provide me 10000 2x4 bricks for less than that" may be a valid argument). I don't think people not currently manufacturing bricks would be willing to help, even if they have the tools to mould parts (moulds themselves are costly), but you could ask.

Check these two questions for more info on alternatives to LEGO:
> 2 votes

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Tags: manufacturing, 3rd-party, plastics
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# Question
Title: Any reasons for the introduction of the new-style raised arch?
The new-style raised arch (to the left, 92950) got introduced in 2009, and has been gradually replacing the old-style arch (to the right, 3455) across the board. However, after four years, not only haven't I run into a single set where it was structurally a necessity, but it also actually *looks* worse in all the sets I own. So I find myself constantly replacing new-style arches with old-style arches.

Just one of many examples: the wheel well of the VW Camper Van. The raised arch introduces a questionable corner on the back side, and an utterly hideous bump on the front side, both of which are completely uncalled for. Replace the new arch with an old-style one, and suddenly the curve is perfectly smooth on the back side all by itself, and on the front side you can easily make it smooth as well by putting that cheese slope onto a headlight brick with a 1×1 plate, thus effectively moving it ½ plate back.

Now, I understand that in the Tower Bridge, say, the old arch wouldn't work for the middle windows, as it is just a bit too low the way they are designed. However, here's the punchline: the new arch is a bit *too high*, introducing a gap that doesn't look right. In fact I only got rid of it by raising the middle windows by ½ plate, using some SNOT magic. That can hardly be the point.

So, has there been any kind of official statement explaining the redesign of this part? Or, failing that, do you own any sets that absolutely require the new-style arch for structural reasons?

# Answer
> 17 votes
Although I can't think of any sets that make use of this technique, I have found that the Slope, Curved 4×1 Double No Studs fits perfectly under the new-style arches.

# Answer
> 3 votes
With a lot of part redesigns, there's usually a factor which is considered very highly by LEGO: cost reduction, and more precisely the amount of plastic moulded.

Another example of this is the way posts under 1 x n bricks are now hollow. I've heard a more subtle one recently: the sides of the Arch 1 x 5 x 4 are thinner than before, which doesn't seem to matter except when you try to attach studs underneath - they don't hold. I tried with some brown arches from Medieval Market Village and I can confirm it. Funnily enough, the part seems to have been redesigned again since then.

Of course, LEGO probably won't redesign a part just for that reason alone, since creating a new mould is very expensive, so they will most likely do it only when they want to redesign the part anyway or when a mould has to be replaced.

I have no way to know which reason is behind the 1x6 arch change, but it's likely they felt the new design fitted more with the system as a whole - seeing donutsftw's answer, I can't help feeling he may be right. Not only is the interaction between these two parts nothing short of perfect now, but it's possible LEGO has thought of something else that makes more sense with the new arch too.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I don't know, I can't test it, but for me it seems, that in the new arch it is possible to insert a 1/3-high brick (length 4 studs) in the hole, so the studs of the piece would not touch the arch itself.

In the old one it is almost surely not possible (haven't tested). There is of course a question what this should be achieved for.

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Tags: piece-information
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# Question
Title: Why are LEGO sets put in such big boxes?
I am wondering why LEGO puts sets in big packages. All bricks are put in small plastic bags and from my experience the packaging could be at least half of what it is.

There is so much told these days about ecology (especially in the EU, where LEGO has its seat), the smaller boxes would lead to better use of containers, so less CO2 during transportation and so on.

I understand that larger box "promises" something BIG inside, but could also lead to some disappointment.

When I was a kid and had my own sets, I'm sure they were relatively smaller.

# Answer
I think you're just discovered a "*downsizing*". This word has many explanations and definitions depending on aspect of life, where used. But in influence and manipulation the meaning is clear and partially explained by *Josh*. Your brain assumes the bigger package is, the bigger value it has or the bigger contents you're getting.

The general idea of downsizing in influence and manipulation is that *you're getting the same amount as in case of competitive product, but you* think *you're getting* more *because of* bigger *package*. An alternative version of downsizing assumes that you're *getting* less *than competitive company offers, but you think you're getting* the same, *because of the same packaging*. And — of course — the price is the same as that of the competing company. Thanks to packaging, it does not have to be adjusted to lower amount customer is getting.

The key to the success is that in most cases, the differences between reduced and competitive products are so slight that customers don't realize they've bought less paying the same (not adjusted price). But since the not noticeable difference is multiplied by thousands or even millions of sold products, customers see no difference and the company saves or earns extra millions of dollars.

This works in every or nearly every aspect of shopping. If you'll see two milk shakes, two washing powders, cakes, butters, milks, anything and one of them will be in a bigger package than the other, you'll most likely automatically pick up the bigger one. Your brain assumes that this is better for you. LEGO is no exception here and I'm pretty sure that if they wouldn't receive negative response and push from eco-oriented organisations (what RegDwight explained) they'd continue their politics.

This works brilliantly (for the manipulator, not for you, of course), especially if you're doing quick shopping in a large mall and you reserve seconds or even split seconds for the process of selecting a particular product over another one. You're often fouled by manipulators using downsizing — bigger packaging does not necessary mean higher volume. I saw (too) many examples where the customer selecting a bigger package was in fact getting a smaller volume. But due to the very limited time for decision, they only checked the size or weight at home, or \[erhaps never.

Some sources claim that a big pinch in the bottom of each or nearly each wine bottle is in fact another example of downsizing, not a handy catchpoint allowing the bartender to hold the bottle in one hand. If you pinch-up the bottom of the bottle that much, you can produce a bigger (wider) bottle, that contains the same amount of wine a competitive company offers. But since your bottle is wider (thanks to pinch-up) your customer will most likely choose your bottle, not the competing one.

Downsizing in influence is sometimes called "A British Airways olives example" after the first documented use of this mechanism. Which, at the same time, explains why it is so common and so often used to foul us. Many years ago, British Airways managers calculated that removing two olives from drinks served on board all their planes would reduce the overall costs of flights by *millions of pounds* in a year's time. They went ahead and thus downsizing was born. Customers were getting less than competitive flight companies offered, but the difference was not noticeable, so nobody complained. When this small difference was multiplied by a number of flights British Airways serves on each routers during entire year, company savings were at level of tens of millions pounds.
> -4 votes

# Answer
Actually TLG are listening, and in fact are replacing boxes with smaller ones right now as we speak.

> These new boxes will have a FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certification “which lowers the CO2 impact of its packaging by about 10%.” **You will be able to start seeing the smaller boxes this year and by 2015, all of the products will be in smaller boxes.** With this change, LEGO will save about 4000 tons of cardboard which is about 18% of their current consumption. These new boxes will come from sustainable forest so less trees will have to be taken down.
>
> \[...\] LEGO is also involved in other plans to lower their carbon footprint. About 25% of the emissions are from manufacturing of the bricks themselves so they’ve made plans to mold the bricks more efficiently. The company also has invested in wind energy to improve their energy consumption.

Emphasis mine.

Now, as to why the boxes were huge in the first place, I can't tell. I heard all kinds of theories over the years, from "so the parts have room to move and don't get damaged" to "it looks more impressive on the shelves". But as this recent move demonstrates, all these reasons could either be worked around, or were negligible to begin with.
> 25 votes

# Answer
When I asked a LEGO employee this, I was told, "Because the retailers tell us to". They went on to tell me that consumers' perceived value of $200 toy is influenced by the size of the box it's in. If some other random toy is on the shelves next to $100 LEGO sets, and the random toy is in a huge box and is only $9, the reptilian part of your brain goes wild and wants the $9 bargain. Look at LEGO sets on the shelves and you'll see there is a strong relationship between price and box size, but not so much with the volume of plastic parts inside. My understanding is that they've been able to talk their way into slightly smaller packaging, but there's still a huge amount of air in there.
> 12 votes

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Tags: packaging
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title: Technic 8071 assembly problem

text:
# Question
Title: Technic 8071 assembly problem
I am busy attempting to assemble Technic 8071, and have encountered a problem.

On page 83 of the first manual, a yellow gear (4203493) together with a grey splined rod (4211815) is added to the sub-assembly in diagram 13.

A little later, in book 2 page 4, diagram 14, two sub-assemblies are being joined, but the yellow gear is in the way. If you remove the yellow gear, everything goes together just fine.

I have backtracked through the instructions and re-assembled everything carefully, but there remains the possibility that I have made a mistake. Right now, it looks to me as though the documentation is incorrect. Can anyone confirm either that they have encountered the same problem, or that on the contrary, they have assembled the kit successfully? Is it just that I'm looking the wrong way at the diagram?

Edit: Added a couple of pictures

# Answer
> 3 votes
Seeing the manuals, I'm fairly confident the instructions are correct.

The 11L beam from the second part (introduced in book 2, p 2, #1) looks like it should slide right next to the yellow gear (thus, not right on top of the right 7L beam (introduced in book 1, p 79, # 4) but one stud to the right, which shouldn't be a problem). To clarify, the 11L beam should be exactly in the middle, at equal distance of both yellow gears, right on top of the part with three holes protruding from the turntable on the right.

I'l admit I didn't build it myself yet though, so maybe I overlooked something.

Moreover, I don't really see what could go wrong, especially in book 2. Even in book 1 I can only imagine swapping the right 7L beam with the other part in #3 of page 79, thus having the two 7L beams next one to another, but that kind of mistake should be easier to spot than to make. Could you perhaps post pictures of the two parts as they are before you attempt to assemble them together?

# Answer
> 4 votes
This is the image from the Book 2, Section 14, Page 4 on the instructions from the Lego Website - source. Does yours look like this?

To me it does look like it's not quite right - if you lift the yellow gear out, move the second part into position and then put the gear back it in it looks like it might fit, although the yellow gear wouldn't turn.

I'd advise contacting Lego support, or see if you can pick out the way the person put it together in this YouTube timelapse video.

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Tags: technic
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# Question
Title: Displaying the Star Wars Super Star Destroyer in a small apartment?
It has been several years since I played with LEGOs.

Three weeks before the holidays I got the LEGO Star Wars set 10221 Super Star Destroyer as an impulse purchase at a local sale. Now I am stuck with a 125 centimeter, 3.5 kilogram LEGO figure.

Has anyone got any suggestions or tips on what to do with such a huge display figure in a relatively small apartment? I really should have planned this a bit better before completing it.

I have considered hanging it from the high ceiling, but I am afraid the construction is not strong enough to prevent it from falling apart. Not that it would look particularly good from the underside either.

# Answer
By using two TV wall mounts, you could put it against the wall on its side.

This guy was able to do with the LEGO Millennium Falcon(Ultimate Collector 10179). Here's a link to some pictures that shows how he interfaced the TV mount with the LEGO bricks. You will have to make some modifications to the kit but that's a good reason why LEGO are fun.
> 14 votes

# Answer
One of my friends who had a similar issue with the LEGO Millennium Falcon (10179) beastie, got a custom coffee table built for it, it has a toughened glass top, and glass side panels, to show off it's true beauty (I believe the next step is to hook it up with some strip LED lighting too).

I don't know how feasible that would be for the SSD, I don't know the size differences between it and the MF, but it's something you could do too :)
> 6 votes

# Answer
You can use a tv holder to attach it to the wall or ceiling. 3 kg should be no problem. If this would be like a movable arm you could easily set views from any perspective.

***EDIT***

I mean something like this

or this one

The latter can carry up to 17.5 lbs which is 8 kilograms.
> 3 votes

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Tags: star-wars
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