title: Export LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 Lab Code

text:
# Question
Title: Export LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 Lab Code
I was wondering if it was possible in any way to see the actual code that is generated by the Lego Mindstorms IDE.

I know there isn't a direct 'export to code' option within the tool but I wondered if there was a third party tool by any chance.

On a related note, it seems the files that are saved (.ev3) are just raw data. Is there any specification for the file format?

Any info would be greatly appreciated!

# Answer
> 22 votes
Update:

I have written a tool to disassemble EV3 programs. The EV3 software compiles the `.ev3` file to a `.rbf` file and sends that to the EV3 brick. The disassembler can convert the `.rbf` file into a `.lms` file, which is a sort of assembly language that can be used to create programs for the EV3.

Here is a simple example using a trivial `.ev3` project.

To create the `.rbf` file, we have to download the program to an EV3 brick. Then we can upload the `.rbf` file from the brick using the Memory Browser.

Running the disassembler on the `.rbf` file will result in this:

```
    // Disassembly of C:\Users\david\Desktop\Program.rbf
    //
    // Byte code version: 0.57

    DATA8 GLOBAL0
    DATA8 GLOBAL1
    DATA8 GLOBAL2
    DATA8 GLOBAL3
    DATA8 GLOBAL4
    DATA8 GLOBAL5
    DATA8 GLOBAL6
    DATA8 GLOBAL7
    DATA8 GLOBAL8
    DATA8 GLOBAL9
    DATA8 GLOBAL10
    DATA8 GLOBAL11
    DATA8 GLOBAL12
    DATA8 GLOBAL13
    DATA8 GLOBAL14
    DATA8 GLOBAL15
    DATA8 GLOBAL16
    DATA8 GLOBAL17
    DATA8 GLOBAL18
    DATA8 GLOBAL19
    DATA8 GLOBAL20

    vmthread OBJECT1
    {
            DATA8 LOCAL0
            DATA8 LOCAL1
            DATA8 LOCAL2
            DATA8 LOCAL3
            DATA8 LOCAL4

    OFFSET1_0:
            OUTPUT_RESET(0,15)
    OFFSET1_3:
            INPUT_DEVICE(CLR_ALL,-1)
    OFFSET1_6:
            MOVE32_32(0,LOCAL0)
    OFFSET1_9:
            ADD32(GLOBAL12,1,GLOBAL12)
    OFFSET1_13:
            MOVE8_8(GLOBAL20,LOCAL4)
    OFFSET1_16:
            ADD32(GLOBAL8,1,GLOBAL8)
    OFFSET1_20:
            JR_FALSE(LOCAL4,OFFSET1_29)
    OFFSET1_23:
            ADD32(LOCAL0,1,LOCAL0)
    OFFSET1_27:
            JR(OFFSET1_9)
    OFFSET1_29:
            ADD32(GLOBAL4,1,GLOBAL4)
    OFFSET1_33:
            CALL(OBJECT2,1123418112,0,1117126656,1065353216,0,1)
    OFFSET1_58:
            ADD32(GLOBAL0,1,GLOBAL0)
    }

    subcall OBJECT2
    {
            IN_F LOCAL0
            IN_F LOCAL4
            IN_F LOCAL8
            IN_F LOCAL12
            IN_32 LOCAL16
            IN_8 LOCAL20

            DATA8 LOCAL21
            DATA8 LOCAL22
            DATA8 LOCAL23
            DATA8 LOCAL24
            DATA8 LOCAL25
            DATA8 LOCAL26
            DATA8 LOCAL27
            DATA8 LOCAL28
            DATA8 LOCAL29
            DATA8 LOCAL30
            DATA8 LOCAL31
            DATA8 LOCAL32
            DATA8 LOCAL33
            DATA8 LOCAL34
            DATA8 LOCAL35
            DATA8 LOCAL36
            DATA8 LOCAL37
            DATA8 LOCAL38
            DATA8 LOCAL39
            DATA8 LOCAL40
            DATA8 LOCAL41
            DATA8 LOCAL42
            DATA8 LOCAL43
            DATA8 LOCAL44
            DATA8 LOCAL45
            DATA8 LOCAL46
            DATA8 LOCAL47
            DATA8 LOCAL48
            DATA8 LOCAL49
            DATA8 LOCAL50
            DATA8 LOCAL51
            DATA8 LOCAL52
            DATA8 LOCAL53
            DATA8 LOCAL54
            DATA8 LOCAL55
            DATA8 LOCAL56
            DATA8 LOCAL57
            DATA8 LOCAL58
            DATA8 LOCAL59
            DATA8 LOCAL60
            DATA8 LOCAL61
            DATA8 LOCAL62
            DATA8 LOCAL63
            DATA8 LOCAL64
            DATA8 LOCAL65
            DATA8 LOCAL66

    OFFSET2_7:
            CP_EQF(LOCAL12,0,LOCAL66)
    OFFSET2_12:
            MOVE32_32(GLOBAL16,LOCAL36)
    OFFSET2_16:
            AND32(LOCAL16,LOCAL36,LOCAL48)
    OFFSET2_22:
            CP_GT32(LOCAL48,0,LOCAL65)
    OFFSET2_28:
            OR8(LOCAL66,LOCAL65,LOCAL64)
    OFFSET2_35:
            JR_EQ8(LOCAL64,1,OFFSET2_45)
    OFFSET2_40:
            JR_EQ8(LOCAL64,0,OFFSET2_48)
    OFFSET2_45:
            JR(OFFSET2_139)
    OFFSET2_48:
            MULF(LOCAL12,360.0F,LOCAL24)
    OFFSET2_56:
            CALL(OBJECT3,LOCAL0,LOCAL8,LOCAL24,LOCAL4,LOCAL58,LOCAL60,LOCAL20)
    OFFSET2_68:
            MOVE32_32(LOCAL16,LOCAL52)
    OFFSET2_72:
            MOVE8_8(LOCAL60,LOCAL59)
    OFFSET2_77:
            MOVE8_8(LOCAL58,LOCAL57)
    OFFSET2_82:
            MOVE32_32(0,LOCAL44)
    OFFSET2_86:
            MOVE32_32(GLOBAL16,LOCAL40)
    OFFSET2_90:
            AND32(LOCAL52,LOCAL40,LOCAL32)
    OFFSET2_97:
            CP_GT32(LOCAL32,0,LOCAL62)
    OFFSET2_103:
            OUTPUT_TEST(LOCAL57,LOCAL59,LOCAL56)
    OFFSET2_110:
            CP_EQ8(LOCAL56,0,LOCAL61)
    OFFSET2_116:
            OR8(LOCAL61,LOCAL62,LOCAL63)
    OFFSET2_123:
            SLEEP()
    OFFSET2_124:
            JR_TRUE(LOCAL63,OFFSET2_137)
    OFFSET2_128:
            ADD32(LOCAL44,1,LOCAL44)
    OFFSET2_134:
            JR(OFFSET2_86)
    OFFSET2_137:
            JR(OFFSET2_139)
    OFFSET2_139:
    }

    subcall OBJECT3
    {
            IN_F LOCAL0
            IN_F LOCAL4
            IN_F LOCAL8
            IN_F LOCAL12
            OUT_8 LOCAL16
            OUT_8 LOCAL17
            IN_8 LOCAL18

            DATA8 LOCAL19
            DATA8 LOCAL20
            DATA8 LOCAL21
            DATA8 LOCAL22
            DATA8 LOCAL23
            DATA8 LOCAL24
            DATA8 LOCAL25
            DATA8 LOCAL26
            DATA8 LOCAL27
            DATA8 LOCAL28
            DATA8 LOCAL29
            DATA8 LOCAL30
            DATA8 LOCAL31
            DATA8 LOCAL32
            DATA8 LOCAL33
            DATA8 LOCAL34
            DATA8 LOCAL35
            DATA8 LOCAL36
            DATA8 LOCAL37
            DATA8 LOCAL38
            DATA8 LOCAL39
            DATA8 LOCAL40
            DATA8 LOCAL41
            DATA8 LOCAL42
            DATA8 LOCAL43
            DATA8 LOCAL44
            DATA8 LOCAL45
            DATA8 LOCAL46
            DATA8 LOCAL47
            DATA8 LOCAL48
            DATA8 LOCAL49
            DATA8 LOCAL50
            DATA8 LOCAL51
            DATA8 LOCAL52
            DATA8 LOCAL53
            DATA8 LOCAL54
            DATA8 LOCAL55
            DATA8 LOCAL56
            DATA8 LOCAL57
            DATA8 LOCAL58
            DATA8 LOCAL59
            DATA8 LOCAL60
            DATA8 LOCAL61
            DATA8 LOCAL62
            DATA8 LOCAL63
            DATA8 LOCAL64
            DATA8 LOCAL65
            DATA8 LOCAL66
            DATA8 LOCAL67
            DATA8 LOCAL68
            DATA8 LOCAL69
            DATA8 LOCAL70
            DATA8 LOCAL71
            DATA8 LOCAL72
            DATA8 LOCAL73
            DATA8 LOCAL74
            DATA8 LOCAL75
            DATA8 LOCAL76
            DATA8 LOCAL77
            DATA8 LOCAL78
            DATA8 LOCAL79
            DATA8 LOCAL80
            DATA8 LOCAL81
            DATA8 LOCAL82
            DATA8 LOCAL83
            DATA8 LOCAL84
            DATA8 LOCAL85
            DATA8 LOCAL86
            DATA8 LOCAL87
            DATA8 LOCAL88
            DATA8 LOCAL89
            DATA8 LOCAL90
            DATA8 LOCAL91
            DATA8 LOCAL92
            DATA8 LOCAL93
            DATA8 LOCAL94
            DATA8 LOCAL95
            DATA8 LOCAL96
            DATA8 LOCAL97
            DATA8 LOCAL98
            DATA8 LOCAL99
            DATA8 LOCAL100
            DATA8 LOCAL101
            DATA8 LOCAL102
            DATA8 LOCAL103
            DATA8 LOCAL104
            DATA8 LOCAL105

    OFFSET3_8:
            CP_LTF(LOCAL8,0,LOCAL100)
    OFFSET3_13:
            JR_EQ8(LOCAL100,1,OFFSET3_24)
    OFFSET3_18:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL4,LOCAL56)
    OFFSET3_22:
            JR(OFFSET3_40)
    OFFSET3_24:
            SUBF(0.0F,LOCAL4,LOCAL72)
    OFFSET3_33:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL72,LOCAL56)
    OFFSET3_38:
            JR(OFFSET3_40)
    OFFSET3_40:
            MOVEF_8(LOCAL56,LOCAL97)
    OFFSET3_45:
            CP_NEQF(LOCAL56,0,LOCAL101)
    OFFSET3_51:
            MATH(ABS,LOCAL8,LOCAL68)
    OFFSET3_56:
            MOVEF_32(LOCAL68,LOCAL88)
    OFFSET3_61:
            MOVEF_F(2.0F,LOCAL32)
    OFFSET3_69:
            MOVEF_32(LOCAL0,LOCAL84)
    OFFSET3_73:
            PORT_CNV_OUTPUT(LOCAL84,LOCAL99,LOCAL98,LOCAL104)
    OFFSET3_82:
            MOVE8_8(LOCAL98,LOCAL17)
    OFFSET3_86:
            MOVE8_8(LOCAL99,LOCAL16)
    OFFSET3_90:
            AND8(LOCAL101,LOCAL18,LOCAL103)
    OFFSET3_96:
            MOVE16_16(0,LOCAL92)
    OFFSET3_100:
            JR_FALSE(LOCAL103,OFFSET3_108)
    OFFSET3_104:
            MOVE16_16(1,LOCAL92)
    OFFSET3_108:
            MOVE16_8(LOCAL92,LOCAL96)
    OFFSET3_113:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL12,LOCAL40)
    OFFSET3_117:
            MOVEF_F(-100.0F,LOCAL36)
    OFFSET3_125:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL40,LOCAL44)
    OFFSET3_130:
            MOVEF_F(100.0F,LOCAL52)
    OFFSET3_138:
            CP_GTF(LOCAL44,LOCAL52,LOCAL102)
    OFFSET3_145:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL44,LOCAL48)
    OFFSET3_150:
            JR_FALSE(LOCAL102,OFFSET3_159)
    OFFSET3_154:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL52,LOCAL48)
    OFFSET3_159:
            CP_LTF(LOCAL48,LOCAL36,LOCAL105)
    OFFSET3_166:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL48,LOCAL24)
    OFFSET3_170:
            JR_FALSE(LOCAL105,OFFSET3_178)
    OFFSET3_174:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL36,LOCAL24)
    OFFSET3_178:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL24,LOCAL20)
    OFFSET3_181:
            MULF(LOCAL20,LOCAL32,LOCAL28)
    OFFSET3_186:
            JR_EQ8(LOCAL104,1,OFFSET3_197)
    OFFSET3_191:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL28,LOCAL60)
    OFFSET3_195:
            JR(OFFSET3_218)
    OFFSET3_197:
            MOVEF_F(0.0F,LOCAL76)
    OFFSET3_205:
            SUBF(LOCAL76,LOCAL28,LOCAL64)
    OFFSET3_211:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL64,LOCAL60)
    OFFSET3_216:
            JR(OFFSET3_218)
    OFFSET3_218:
            MOVEF_16(LOCAL60,LOCAL94)
    OFFSET3_223:
            OUTPUT_STEP_SYNC(LOCAL99,LOCAL98,LOCAL97,LOCAL94,LOCAL88,LOCAL96)
    OFFSET3_236:
    }

```

Being a disassembly, this can be a bit hard to interpret since there are not any helpful variable names. You can find information on EV3 assembly language here.

---

Original answer:

The `.ev3` file is actually just a zip file. You can use any zip utility to browse the contents or unzip it. It will look something like this:

```
├── Activity.x3a
├── ActivityAssets.laz
├── Program.ev3p
├── Project.lvprojx
├── ___CopyrightYear
└── ___ProjectTitle

```

The `___*` files are just plain text files, `ActivityAssets.laz` is another zip file and the rest are xml files.

# Answer
> 5 votes
Recently in the scope of a pet project I have put effort into finding a way for systematic decoding of the rbf file to EV3G compatible high level blocks buildin upon David Lechner's disassembly work.

Currently the project has over 95% coverage (all common blocks recognized) called EV3BrickMagic

You can try the result online - http://ev3treevis.azurewebsites.net

There is a windows exe for offline use as well - https://afarago.github.io/EV3TreeVisualizerPages/#EV3BrickMagic

---
Tags: mindstorms, ev3, ev3-g
---


title: Pin Connector 62462 vs 75535

text:
# Question
Title: Pin Connector 62462 vs 75535
I wonder what is the purpose of the slot in the 62462 pin connector? What can it be used for, beside from help with part separation?

Part 62462 (2005-present) is newer than 75535 (1995-2008), but the slot makes it more ugly in models, for my taste. You need to rotate the slot towards some contruction part that will hide it, but it is not always possible. On the other hand, the groove at the 75535 end is not desirable sometimes also.

# Answer
> 5 votes
I have seen one possible explanation posted in a comment in this question: Why does the pin recess on the Technic turntable continue to the edge of the part?

User Joubarc states:

> Another good (if maybe more subtle) example of this is the pin joiner which now has a slot in the middle. That slot is similar to the recess seen in the other parts, in that it simplifies the moulding process greatly. (The previous version required two sub-parts to be assembled together, which is even worse than a mould with moving parts)

If this assertion is true, then the slot exists simply to streamline the molding process. If you look closely at the top-rim of 75535 in your example image, it is easy to make out a very fine line. Perhaps this is evidence of two sub-parts being assembled.

---
Tags: technic, piece-information
---


# Question
Title: Need help identifying these 7 lego pieces!
I need help identifying these 7 pieces. Please assist!

What I tried so far is logically trying to figure out their categories, but unfortunately I couldn't find them, or there were hundreds/thousands of matches. If anyone knows, I'd appreciate a share. :)

Thanks!

# Answer
1. Minifigure, Footgear Roller Skate
2. Leg Skeleton
3. a scarf to be worn around the neck for minifigs, I can't remember the name
4. No idea
5. Minifigure, Footgear Ice Skate
6. Carrot Top / Twig
7. Technic, Link Tread
> 12 votes

# Answer
**03** \- *Part #15619 Minifigure, Bandana Ninja.*

**04** \- *Part #95747 Minifigure, Headgear Head Top, SW Zabrak Horns.*
> 10 votes

---
Tags: part-identification, piece-information
---


# Question
Title: Does the word Lego have anything to do with Latin verb lego?
When I started learning Latin and learnt the verb "legō" specifically (meaning, "I collect, gather"), I suddenly realized "Oh, so that's where the Lego name comes from!" and it made perfect sense.

It was somewhat surprising for me to learn later that in fact it originates from Danish "leg godt", meaning "play well". I actually still believe Lego has relations with the Latin verb, even though there is no clear proof of it in official sources.

Do you think Latin "legō" has anything to do here, or is it just a mere coincidence?

# Answer
> 10 votes
The official story is that Ole Kirk Kristiansen didn't realise until years after naming the company what it meant in Latin (normally it's said to mean "I put together", not "I collect"), and as there was no construction over the products made in the first many years, it seems unlikely that he should have thought along those lines.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Interestingly, "Lego" is the Greek word for "lay" or "put forth" ...from the verb "to speak." "Leg" is a Proto Indo European root word which shows up in many other words --most of which are cousins to the idea of something coming out, leaking, put forth, extends from, speaking. Logos, ology, legacy, leak, speech, logistics, etc.

https://www.blueletterbible.org/lang/lexicon/lexicon.cfm?Strongs=G3004&t=NIV http://www.thefreedictionary.com/\_/roots.aspx?type=Indo-European&root=leg-

# Answer
> -1 votes
Ole wanted to do "Le godt" but he wanted his name to be short, so he decided to go with the word "Lego" which is a Latin word. Then he realised, the word he "made up" was a real word.

---
Tags: history, terminology
---


# Question
Title: Can't identify venom/spiderman minifigures
I can't identify these Venom/Spiderman minifigures and I have no idea what set they're from but they are probably about 6-7 years old. I'm not sure if those are the right bottoms for Venom, but I know that the head and torso match (and one of Spiderman's hands are mismatched as well). Does anyone recognize these particular ones? Thanks for the help

# Answer
I think they come from this Megabloks set
> 7 votes

---
Tags: set-identification, minifigures, clone-brands, minifigure-identification
---


# Question
Title: How to best measure compatibility among Lego and clones?
A top complaint I see about clone brands is the quality: specifically the flimsiness of the plastic, premature discoloration, or poor fitting with either other bricks of the same brand or with Lego. I've never seen a quantified study of the various clones though. I consider the poor fitting issue the worst issue. How hard/expensive would it be to build/buy a device to measure the force of attaching and detaching plates and bricks?

My anecdotal experience: I have Lego, Sluban, Cobi, Xingbao(Lepin), and 2 other brands that I'm not sure of the source. Among these, only the "Technique" axles and axle holes from one of the unknown brands are incompatible with Lego: Lego's axles are bigger so don't fit in the clone's axle holes, and the clone's axles have no friction in Lego's axle holes. But having numbers to post in an article and point at would be nice.

# Answer
> 2 votes
> How hard/expensive would it be to build/buy a device to measure the force of attaching and detaching plates and bricks?

Thankfully we don't need to think too hard on that, as pcantin has already built a similar device, admittedly built for measuring the repetitions it takes for a brick to lose its clutch power. But it should not be too hard or expensive to modify that design to include something that can measure the exact forces involved. Or it maybe possible to measure the amount of current required by the servo during attaching or detaching and to infer the involved forces from that and thus solve the problem witout requiring any major hardware alterations.

But if your goal is to compare a number of various bricks, I'd recommend a different route. Attach a number of nominally same bricks (i.e. a bunch of 2x4 bricks for example) together in a stack, then pull the two end bricks apart. This way you are applying some force to the top and bottom bricks which gets transmitted across all intermittent bricks. By increasing the applied force the two bricks with the weakest bind will separate first, be they anywhere in the stack. This is akin to finding the weakest link in a chain by pulling the end links apart to see which link break first.

Of course this will only tell us which connection (consisting of a brick's stud-side and another brick's antistud-side) has the weakest clutch power, but by repeating the same test with varied composition (all bricks from manufacturer A, the same bricks in another order, bricks from A mixed with bricks from B, bricks from A on the top and from B on the bottom, etc.) with some planning and measuring it should be possible to establish intra-manufacturer and inter-manufacturer variations in binding force.

---
Tags: compatibility, clone-brands
---


title: Brick or set ID for part?

text:
# Question
Title: Brick or set ID for part?
Going through 130 lbs. of 5 decades worth of parts and can't ID this one part. Anyone know what it is or where it's from? It appears to be old light gray but may just be really dirty light bley. It is 2x2x1-1/3 tall. Could be missing it's bottom as it doesn't place on studs. Only number on it is 4.

# Answer
That's a Technic Engine Piston Square 2 x 2 - Old.
> 11 votes

---
Tags: part-identification
---


# Question
Title: Is there a Technic set that is just an assortment of parts and not a specific vehicle?
Can I buy Technic sets that are just assortments of parts as opposed to a specific vehicle?

**Background**

I do research on sediment carbon cycling in lakes and I need use a rotating array of magnets to keep the water from stratifying in my incubation cores during experiments.

The cores are arranged around the rotating magnets and there is another small magnet suspended in the water of the core tubes. The slowly rotating magnets cause just enough movement in the internally suspended magnets to induce some flow in the sealed cores.

Basically I need a setup that allows me to make slowly rotating horizontal ferris wheels of various sizes.

Historically I have built these setups from wood and small motors but I have begun to think that Legos would make a better and more flexible tool.

It looks like Technic sets are basically what I need (although other suggestions would be welcome) but I just want some basic parts not a cool truck or dune buggy. I have looked on the Lego Technic webpage and all I see are cool vehicles.

# Answer
Lego sells several kits of parts through their Lego Education line. You can buy them online in the US here: http://www.legoeducation.us/

The direct link to the Technic kits is here: http://www.legoeducation.us/eng/characteristics/ProductLine~Machines%20and%20Mechanisms

They have a $50 "Simple Machines" set, a $140 "Simple and Motorized Mechanisms Base Set", a Pnuematics add-on set, and a very cool Renewable Energy set (yes, there is a Lego-branded solar panel!).

Also, if you look under the parts and accessories section (http://www.legoeducation.us/eng/characteristics/productType~LEGO%20Spare%20Parts%20and%20Accessories), you can order variety packs of various parts (e.g., 5 each of each length of the studless beams).

Caveat emptor: I have not compared prices to Bricklink.com, where you can also buy pretty much every Lego element ever molded in bulk quantities.
> 9 votes

# Answer
The short answer at the moment is no, at least as far as I am aware. Although, as oddTodd points out, there are kits in the Education line that may provide what you are looking for.

The only Technic sets in production are models of some kind rather than parts packs. There is the Mindstorms set, which allows for many different models to be built, but that is a very expensive way to just get Technic parts, as it also includes the NXT brick, sensors, and motors.

There are a few ways to get just parts. Some are more expensive than just buying sets, while others are much cheaper.

The most expensive option is to order individual parts from LEGO Pick-a-brick. You should be able to find exactly what you need if you are willing to take the time to choose your parts individually.

Along the same vein, you can buy individual parts from Bricklink. This can be relatively affordable, especially if you are willing to pick up used parts.

If you don't need to choose individual parts, the cheapest and perhaps easiest way to get a large number of pieces is through auctions on sites like eBay.

If you don't mind getting older used sets, there was a line of Technic universal building sets during the 80s and early 90s. Though these can't be purchase directly from LEGO anymore, they are still available on sites like Bricklink or eBay.
> 4 votes

# Answer
Keep in mind that all Technic sets, even if they represent a vehicle or something, are also an assortment of parts by themselves. You don't need to build the model, and some sets are better "parts packs" than others.

I would also encourage you to check the inventories of current sets (on brickset or bricklink, for example) and see if some of them could suit you.

Even if you don't need all parts, keep in mind that sets are usually the cheaper way to get parts, and you could also resell parts you don't need. This may prove ultimately cheaper than buying in bulk from LEGO or Bricklink vendors, and Education isn't cheap either (depending on where you live).
> 4 votes

# Answer
I just suggest buying a set that's a model of something and not following the manual but instead building something that suit your needs. If you really need a box of technic pieces, the education 45560 set is a great choice, especially with a separate power functions motor or two as it comes with a wide assortment of useful pieces like half stud thick beams and gears.
> 0 votes

---
Tags: technic
---


# Question
Title: Have the model files for the LEGO Sonic head piece been released in LDD or LDraw parts library?
I am referring to the "LEGO Dimensions" video game Sonic head piece. I can't seem to find the name of the model, assuming it even exists in these libraries. I've been looking for it everywhere.

# Answer
> 3 votes
I can answer half of this question. I have the latest version of LDD and after a thorough examination of the available head pieces, I can report that the Sonic mold has not been added to the parts library. If anyone else here has the latest LDraw parts library, they will be able to answer the other half of this question.

Here is a shot of all the non-standard head molds:

# Answer
> 0 votes
I've got it and i'm using the latest version, now in June 2019.

---
Tags: minifigures, lego-dimensions
---


# Question
Title: Are miniature blocks (like Wise Hawk or lno) legal to buy online in Europe (Hungary)?
I bought some Wise Hawk mini blocks (about 100 pieces) for me and my family in Hungary online from China. But the customs office has seized it, saying it is an unlicensed copy of LEGO and I committed a crime. I asked my supplier from Alibaba, who told me these pieces are of a smaller size than LEGO and thus need no licence. But LEGO wants to sue me and want to destroy my stuff at the customs. Is that true, did I commit a crime when I ordered this toy online?

# Answer
> 5 votes
AFAIK you did not commit any crimes, as buying conterfeit products is not considered a crime - even if your wares **were** counterfeit, but they are probably not, since the basic brick design is not patented anymore and these blocks are decidedly made different and incompatible.

Can you post the original message you received from the Hungarian customs agency? I happen to know Hungarian, and others might too. Maybe they are misinterpreting something.

Anyways, I'd answer the customs agency by telling them about the intentional design differences, the expired patent of the studs-and-tubes brick design and attaching the answer you have received from your Alibaba seller. The surefire way would be to acquire the assistance of a local lawyer, but cost-wise that would probably not be worth it.

---
Tags: shopping, clone-brands
---


# Question
Title: What set is this bag or black and violet pieces from?
My son got some LEGO bricks in a bag from eBay, but no instructions were included. The only info I have are numbers on the bag 135149 and 2011. It's a number 3 bag.

Looks like "Friends" set, but not sure.

# Answer
> 7 votes
Based on the following parts

303526: Plate 4X8 in Black

4211441: Technic Brick 1X4, Ø4,9 in Medium Stone Grey

6109934: Plate 4X4, 1/4 Circle in Bright Reddish Violet

281721: Technic Doub. Bearing Pl. 2X2 in Bright Red

This bag is from:

41105-1: Pop Star Show Stage

# Answer
> 0 votes
I found it. It is https://shop.lego.com/en-US/product/Pop-Star-Show-Stage-41105

Thanks for all for your help.

---
Tags: set-identification, piece-information
---


# Question
Title: Identify minifig head with large glasses and grey torso with red hands?
I'm sure that this body is the original LEGO. But I'm not sure with head.

What parts are these and which set did they come from?

# Answer
The Torso is 973pb0048c01 : Torso Aquazone Stingray Dark Turquoise, Black, and Gold Pattern 1 / Dark Gray Arms / Red Hands

appears in  Aquazone sets from 1998
> 3 votes

# Answer
The head is proper LEGO too: 3626bpb0126 Minifigure, Head Female Glasses with Orange Goggles, Dimples around Lips Pattern - Blocked Open Stud

This head appeared in 4 sets, all from 2002-2003

I haven’t been able to identify the torso yet though ....
> 3 votes

---
Tags: minifigures, minifigure-identification
---


title: What happened to "LEGO Service"?

text:
# Question
Title: What happened to "LEGO Service"?
In the 1990s, besides the main sets, there were some supplementary sets that were basically just parts collections. At least in Germany, these were offered under the name "LEGO Service", and listed in a small separate catalogue not included in the main catalogue.

An example of such a catalogue can be found here.

These parts collections sets were usually sold in small plastic bags rather than boxes (as opposed to any other LEGO set over here).

**What happened to this product line?**

* Does it still exist, maybe under a different name? (Obviously, looking for "lego service" brings up many false positives.)
* Is what is currently named LEGO Xtra the successor (even though Xtra seems to have just a tiny number of sets available, some of which aren't even parts, but playmats, and the rest are not just individual parts but actually form (tiny) models such as lamp posts)?
* Was it (mostly) discontinued because of more advanced (read: flexible and probably automated at that) ways of ordering individual bricks?

On brickset, the sets I am thinking of seem to be listed as a "Service Packs" theme, which appears to have existed until 1999, but it's not clear whether or to what extent it was superseded by something else.

# Answer
> 5 votes
As I am not a LEGO employee I can only guess, but I would say the LEGO Service line got replaced with LEGO Pick-a-Brick (and LEGO Service’s Bricks & Pieces) as a way for customers to get their hands on quantities of specific pieces. The LEGO Store Pick-a-Brick wall serves a similar purpose.

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Tags: sets, history, theme
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# Question
Title: Is there a current source for the LGEO parts library?
I'm working on a povray render of a model. I've seen the LGEO (not a typo) part library referenced in various places, but I haven't been able to find a working download link.

Is there a current source for an updated version of this part library?

# Answer
Perhaps this Eurobricks thread is helpful: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/108739-new-parts-for-lgeo-library/

It seems that the lgeo library itself is no longer maintained but this person maintains his own version. The download links are on the first page...
> 2 votes

# Answer
As stated in your "various places" link, the LDraw.org web site maintains an All-In-One-Installer (AIOI) which contains and installs LGEO and is updated in January every year so I assume they use the latest version of LGEO.

BTW, I found an LGEO quirk when launching POV-Ray from within LPub3D which I use for generating building instructions. I kept the screenshot below highlighting how you have to tell LPub3D that LGEO is not available, even though the AIOI installed it:
> 2 votes

# Answer
This is now available on Github.

I was able to find a working download of just the original LGEO library on Eurobricks thanks to some help from the other answerers. I trimmed that down a bit, as that download required integrating some other files in order to work properly. This repo should now work perfectly on its own, but it only includes parts up through 2008 that were created by Lars Uhlmann.

If you are looking for a more complete and cutting edge set of elements, Darats' version (from the accepted answer) seems to be the most current and high quality.
> 1 votes

# Answer
This wiki page describes how to get all the LGEO parts.

https://wiki.ldraw.org/wiki/LGEO
> 1 votes

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Tags: ldraw, part-database
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# Question
Title: Does soaking Lego pieces in isopropyl alcohol discolor or otherwise damage them?
I need to clean my Lego including minifigures, printed pieces and cloth pieces from smoke (apartment fire). I have found that soaking the pieces in isopropyl alcohol removes the smell, but am I damaging the pieces by soaking them for 1 or 2 days?

# Answer
> 8 votes
First of all, sorry for your loss and we all wish you good luck recovering your bricks!

As for cleaning LEGO bricks, if you need to remove physically visible dirt, here you can find lots of tips on doing just this, or you can go over to the official LEGO website and heed their recommendations.

If the only problem is the smell of smoke, there is another question about getting rid of foreign scents, maybe you could find valuable information there. If I were in your shoes, I'd try the less aggressive, less risky methods first, and only gradually progressing towards the inorganic solvents if all the previous steps have failed.

There is a similar question over at Chemistry.SE, they might be more knowledgeable than us. But even if the ABS material of the LEGO bricks prove to be immune to the deleterious effects of alcohol, the minute amounts of other ingredients, coloring pigments or printed details might fare worse. LEGO however, recommends cleaning electric parts and pieces using alcohol though, but they specifically mention wiping, not soaking, and especially not for prolonged periods.

But if you really intend to use the alcohol bath, I'd recommend that you pick a few "volunteers" who will test the method before you apply it to the general populace, therefore only risking your less precious, more easily replaceable pieces.

# Answer
> 1 votes
Washing LEGO ABS and Polycarbonate (PC is used for clear and colored transparent parts) bricks and parts can be done safely in a normal mixture of dishwashing liquid and clean water, preferably distilled water, of luke warm temperature. Leave the bricks and/or parts in for a short while and a toothbrush can be used for brushing off all dirt. Allow the parts to dry thoroughly, that's my method and it works fine. Most of the possible odors will be gone as well. This method prevents damage that can occur in due course if the parts are washed in a dishwasher as the formula in dishwasher tablets or the like differs a lot from normal dishwashing liquids, dishwasher tablets contain far more aggressive ingredients than dishwasher liquids all have. As a side effect, dishwashing liquids leave a thin layer of anti static material, making the bricks easier to take apart and their appearence is fresh and shiny, almost like new. And using distilled water leaves no staines on the bricks.

# Answer
> 1 votes
I realize this is old, but... I soaked a couple sticker-resin covered parts in isopropyl alcohol as an experiment years ago and the bricks turned mushy after several hours. So, that didn't work. Wiping them with it and rinsing it off never seems to hurt them in my experience.

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Tags: cleaning
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# Question
Title: How to program two NXT motors to run at the same time?
I'm working on a project with multiple axis of movement… trying to get two motors to run at the same time in order to achieve a mix of two!

# Answer
In NXT-G if you place a block after another block it will run in succession. To get two motors running at the same time you can place two motor blocks, one at the start and the other just above or below. Drag the sequence beam (the white Technic beam) to the second block to complete the circuit.

Don't forget to make sure the motor blocks are controlling separate ports and that both ports on the NXT brick are attached to motors.

You could just use one block to control the two ports but they would both have to be running in the same direction.
> 3 votes

# Answer
It depends on the programming language, but assuming you're using NXT-G then the Move block may be sufficient. The Move block is designed to coordinate 2 motors so that they both rotate at the same speed over a distance. The Move block has settings for speed/power of the motion. There is a forward/backward setting. There is also a steering setting, which is implemented as a slider bar giving about 20 ratios of motor output.

Setting speed to 75, forward and steering = 0 should give you a diagonal line.

Change the steering to something +- 100 to give other diagonal lines.

To give straight horizontal or vertical lines, turn one motor off, the other on.
> 2 votes

# Answer
If you want two things to run at the same time place the first just in front of but not touching the start block and the other just below the first. Click on the joiners (grey ovals on the end where blocks join) and press wire from here and tap on the first code. Do the same with the second.
> 2 votes

# Answer
do 2 starts. From the orange. :)
> 0 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, nxt, programming, motor
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title: Gluing small parts with hairspray?

text:
# Question
Title: Gluing small parts with hairspray?
Someone told me about a "myth" that you could glue LEGO pieces together with a solidifying hairspray like Tresemme stuff, or similar firm hairsprays (that ones that solidify your hair and dry out fast)

Id rather not test it on a random brick to know, but I have a few sets of rare limited edition model weapons (Like Actual Silver versions of LEGO Ninjago weapons and other such common rares, but I also have some extremely rare things like the gold-plated minifig katana)... And I keep losing the pieces to them (I usually find them but still!!) And Due that I'm only using them for collection (not play) I don;t need them to be seperable.

Keep in mind, I'm not really applying this question to my 1 piece rares or my metal minifigure items. I also have some old limited edition plastics that no longer "exist" and they tend to be weapons and pieces made from multiple small pieces.

Is something like hairspray a workable method (Ive heard its similar to those "bead glues" that you see on TV where you make plastic beads, and spray them with something and they stick together...

if this isn't a good method to go about with this, Perhaps a better method that's not expensive nor messy, but works well and looks good.

I plan on later getting an artist to line them up and put them in Epoxy resin, but for now I need a glue method (For bragging rights :3)

# Answer
> 3 votes
AFAIK those "bead glues" work on a completely different principle where the sheen on the individual beads is a water-activated glue and so the finished piece needs to be sprayed with just clean water to adhere the beads together.

There are a number of "weak glues" known which could be worth a try:

* thick sugar syrup (naturally water soluble, thus removable)
* a mixture of baking flour and water (similarly water soluble)
* from this answer comes a recommendation for the "Spray and Play" glue, which can be found for sale online but whose website has since gone rogue. Probably due to the negative feedback received on Amazon.

Of course, for any of the above I'd recommend trying with a few pairs of expendable bricks, whose total cost might be lower than any one of your prized collectibles.

Another avenue would be to increase the clutch power to prevent the separation of the pieces. For example you could place thin pieces of paper, saran wrap or tinfoil between the LEGO pieces that need to be held together. The additional material will prevent the pieces from returning to their original shapes, this tension will make accidental separation harder. And if you get the size of the insert small enough and the placement precise enough, nothing will stick out from between the bricks and so the insert will not degrade the display value.

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Tags: glue
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# Question
Title: Lego Technic 60C01 Clutch Gear Bore size
I was wondering what the bore size is off the 60C01 clutch gear as I was unable to find it anywhere. Also, what is the pitch of such gear?

# Answer
> -1 votes
Had to buy one to check the specs. The Bore size is just under 4 mm (~3.5 mm) in diameter. Without the teeth of the clutch it is just under 5 mm.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Outer (hub): 6.8 mm/.268 in./ 17/64 in.
Inner (shaft): 4.9 mm/ .193 in./ 25/128 in.
Teeth (key): 3.32 mm/ .1305 in./ 17/128 in.

-These are close/approximate, not exact due to the tolerances and/or wear. I measured 4 different gears with a digital caliper and the measurements were all within .10 mm of the listed measurements. The measurements even varied slightly within a single gear depending on side and orientation.

Also, I think you can find the answer to your second question about pitch here: "What is the "Module" of a LEGO gear?"

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Tags: technic, gears, size
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title: Trying to identify old 2x4 plate

text:
# Question
Title: Trying to identify old 2x4 plate
Another odd-ball in my endless sorting and cleaning: a basic 2x4 black plate, but with two raised hollow tubes, larger than a stud. No part number. Here's a picture of it:

# Answer
> 10 votes
This 2x4 plate belongs to the

* **housing of an old 4.5V train motor**.

There are some scratches on the edge of your plate, most likely from an attempt to pry it off with a screwdriver.

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Grey Clone-Brand Brick With a Single Short Tube on the Bottom?
I've had this brick for a while, and I've long wondered what it is.

It's a LEGO-compatible 2x4 brick, colored almost exactly the same as the old medium grey. There are no identifying marking, and the only marking of any kind is a single line on the bottom, which I assume is a `1`.

The most distinguishing feature is that it has only 1 tube on the bottom, and it doesn't reach all the way down.

I originally found it in a bucket of otherwise genuine LEGO pieces years back, so no clues there.

I'm quite certain it's not a genuine LEGO piece, but it is an odd piece and I've long wondered what it's from?

# Answer
> 4 votes
As luck would have it I stumbled upon your answer today sorting through my own mess. It's a Tyco brick. Although the picture doesn't show it, the one I have has a white sticker with the word "DANGER" in red on one side. Hope someone finds this useful.

# Answer
> 1 votes
What you have is indeed a "Tyco" brick. Probably from the mid 80's. I use to have a few of them. I think the great bricks like that were adapter bricks for Tyco's version of Duplo.

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: Two LEGO Powered Up engines with reverse direction
I have 2 LEGO 60197 City Passenger Trains and I would like to attach both sets together and run them on the same channel.

The problem with the current disposition of the bogies is that reversing the powered bogie is impractical. Is there a way to invert the direction of one of the engines in order to make them run together: one engine at the front the other at the rear in reverse mode?

# Answer
> 2 votes
Th easiest solution is to just use port "B" on the rear engine and then turn the "B" side remote control panel 180 degrees. They will then both go the same direction for "up" or "down". You may even find that having the rear motor 1 click lower than the front is advantageous so it isn't pushing too much in turns, trying to buckle the train.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I think you can use the powered up smartphone app or the lego powered up remote to switch direction of a given motor.

If not you could use gears to reverse the direction of one of the axles. the motor would drive an axle which would gear onto the train wheel axle.

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Tags: trains, powered-up
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# Question
Title: Why there are "unnecessary" bricks in 60080 LEGO City Space Port?
I previously asked about bricks in invisible places. Now I have second question. There are some bricks that are hardly visible, and in no way contribute to strength of a model. For example lime brick inside space shuttle or red bricks in the launch platform.

Note, as you can see in instructions step 14 - there is nothing on the other side of red brick. It connects only to the long gray technic brick.

Is there any purpose? Are these bricks there to symbolize something? What's the benefit that would justify cost?

# Answer
I have always assumed that the pieces in question were place holders to simplify assembly. Their bright color and location help insure proper alignment for less experienced builders. One must realize that the set is marketed to 6-12 year old's. I imagine their testing has proven that such aides are very useful for younger builders.
> 5 votes

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Tags: sets, city
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title: What minifigure is this?

text:
# Question
Title: What minifigure is this?
Please help identify which minifigure this is. My son wants to know which set it has come from. Can someone help us?

# Answer
**Head**: Is *Part #3626cpb0704*, which appears in any of these *24 sets*.

**Torso**: Is from Set *#76007-1 Iron Man: Malibu Mansion Attack*. Specifically, the "*Extremis Soldier*" minifig chest piece.
> 15 votes

# Answer
The torso is from the Malibu mansion set, and the head looks to be a Bruce Wayne/Loki/Lex Luthor minifigure, and the legs could be from literally anywhere.
> 6 votes

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Tags: minifigures, minifigure-identification
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# Question
Title: I am looking for building instructions for the Megabloks Viking Ship 9604
I have parts of the Megabloks set 9604 Viking Ship but can not find the building instructions for it. The goal is to be able to complete this set.

# Answer
***BOOM***!

Found them free online ***HERE***.
> 3 votes

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Tags: instructions, clone-brands
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title: Is this an early Duplo mini figure?

text:
# Question
Title: Is this an early Duplo mini figure?
Just wondering if you have ever seen this figure before?

I've had it since I was a kid in the early 80's, and it's always lived with my lego (which was mostly hand-me-downs from my older brother - ie Space #897 rocket set). It doesn't fit with Lego, but does seem to fit with Duplo.

Looking at early Duplo mini figures, they look vaguely similar, however the Duplo figures are squared off, whereas this figure's body is circular.

There's no markings to indicate brand...

Just a little mystery in my life. :)

# Answer
At last, I have your answer. The figure is from a "Giant Pre-School Loc Bloc" set, likely the "Playground" one shown in the picture.

Nearly a month later, while doing unrelated research, I found "Giant Brix Blox", a second possible source of these types of figures;

It makes since given that sources claim Loc Blocs & Brix Blox were both imported from the Japanese company Kawada.
> 7 votes

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Tags: duplo, minifigure-identification
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# Question
Title: Was it once possible to put a 1x1 round into a minifig cup?
I remember being able to put a 1x1 round brick into the top of a minifig cup before my dark age (the period of time that a person stops building with Lego, up to the time they pick up the bricks again), but I have tried it since and can't do it.

Was I imagining that connection, or have they redesigned the minifigure cup?

Is/was there another connection that I might have confused with the minifig cup?

(This would have been sometime in the 80's, but the bricks in my collection went back to the '70s.)

# Answer
> 5 votes
I still have cups and 1x1 round bricks from the late 70's and I can ensure you these were never brickable like you suggest.

In the 80's, another popular build from Lego was composed of a transparent cup on top of a transparent minifig head. Here is a colored example of that build.

# Answer
> 13 votes
Is it possible that you are thinking of this goblet (2343)?

This part was fairly common, and it was introduced around 1985, so it was probably in your collection.

1x1 round plates attach securely to the top as shown in this lamp from the Pet Shop:

# Answer
> 4 votes
As the others mention, I don't think it was ever possible. Like the goblet part mentioned above, another possibility is that you were putting them in the sauce pan (#4529) which first appeared in 1983. Scala cups (#33054) will also fit one but they didn't appear until 1997. I think these dates are correct, I know someone will correct me if not :)

# Answer
> 1 votes
Just a suggestion (although it may not have the desired result of being able to stack more on top) but I believe you could flip the 1x1 round brick upside down and put the top into the cup hole. If I had the pieces readily available I'd try it.

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Tags: piece-information, compatibility, piece-usage
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title: Protecting a minifig from wear

text:
# Question
Title: Protecting a minifig from wear
I've purchased a few of the Lego keychain minifigs. Each time I've bought a new one was to replace the previous one because it had most or all of the paint rubbed off from going in and out of pockets and whatnot.

Here is my most recent example of the wear on my minifig keychain.

You can see that the mouth is almost completely missing.

Is there something that I can do to protect the paint and keep it from rubbing off?

# Answer
> 6 votes
This guide here (off-site backup) in the BrickJournal magazine has a section titled "Step Three: Protecting Your New Figure – Application of a clear top coat". It recommends Future’s floor wax or Badger overcoats and discourages the use of nail polish due to its tendency to yellow when exposed to sunlight.

They suggest applying two layers, each dried with a hair dryer to achieve a smooth, bubble-free surface.

Admittedly, these instructions are for display models, not figures that are going to endure the wear during play or everyday carrying along several keys, but these layers can be reapplied when they are damaged and will protect the figure and its paint while the overcoat is intact.

# Answer
> 6 votes
zovits recommends not using nail polish. I once had a chipped tile floor that I painted with nail polish. It stayed looking good for over 5 years. This was in a high-traffic part of my kitchen. The polish stayed shiny and prevented the tile from chipping further.

I suspect that a keychain probably isn't going to be sitting in the sun too much, but even so, the ABS plastic will discolour anyway, irrespective of the nail polish.

# Answer
> 4 votes
I would think a clear coat of paint would protect it fairly well, until the clear coat rubs off, so you may need to reapply periodically or apply multiple coats. Just make sure whatever you use is approved for plastics and it should work fine.

A thin coating should still allow most of the joints to work, if that isn't a requirement you could apply a thicker coating of a clear epoxy.

# Answer
> 3 votes
http://www.customminifig.co.uk/custom-lego-painting-guide/

Here's someone that paints LEGO's. The seal they use should work for you. You should apply more coats for more protection.

> How about sealer?
>
> Yes, always. If you spend this much time working on something, you want it to last. Sealer should be the last thing you do to your custom, painted parts before they are complete. I recommend an acrylic matte finish, but some people use gloss for certain things (it is supposed to protect better). I personally don’t want a “shiny” look on finished parts.
>
> Another option is to use a gloss coat, allow to dry, then apply a flat coat for “maximum protection without the shine” (sounds like a commercial!), but I usually just stick with flat sealer only.

# Answer
> 2 votes
My solution to preserving your LEGO figures graphics would be to use translucent plasti-dip, which is normally used for tools to give them a grip as well as color code them. Assuming, of course, that you're using the figure as a key fob and not actually playing with it.

My first idea was that a clear, squeeze self-sealing coin pouch would work, but couldn't find one, then plasti-dip came to mind.

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Tags: minifigures, preservation
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# Question
Title: Why don't DUPLO figures have yellow skin?
Normal LEGO minifigures have yellow skin in an attempt at being racially neutral.

Why do (modern?) DUPLO figures use normal flesh tones instead of yellow skin? (Set 10895 aside, which has DUPLO versions of LEGO characters/minifigures... although that does raise another, related question: have there ever been other DUPLO figures with yellow skin?)

# Answer
This is an excellent question. Here's my best guess as to why this is.

As you've pointed out, LEGO System Minifigures were made with yellow heads from the start for a specific reason. On Lego.com it states:

> We chose yellow to avoid assigning a specific ethnicity in sets that don't include any specific characters. With this neutral color, fans can assign their own individual roles to LEGO minifigures.

The very first LEGO Minifigures were made with yellow heads and the first Duplo figures were made with white heads. These were both released at about 1975-1976. Now while the Duplo figures did start off with less racial ambiguity, the Duplo line was quick to introduce the first LEGO figures with realistic skin tones, which were released in 1983. LEGO did not do that with the System figures until 2003, twenty years later.

The LEGO Duplo sets are for toddlers under the age of five, and therefore, these sets include a lot of bright colors. Just look at any Duplo set and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Why does this matter? Well, yellow is a color commonly used in Duplo. It is possible that having a primarily yellow set and a figure with a yellow face might be a bit weird for a child. It also makes the figures stand out from the pieces in the background and might make the set more appealing to a Grandparent, for example. "Oh look! There's cute people in this set!" All of that to say, yellow figures might blend into the primarily yellow Duplo sets.

Additionally, Duplo is for very young kids, and it's probably best to not confuse them and make them wonder why there aren't people with yellow skin in the real world. By the time the child is old enough to move onto System, they already understand what people in the real world look like, and they won't be confused by the yellow heads.

Please keep in mind that this is just my best guess.
> 4 votes

# Answer
This article potentially provides some insight to the type of research that product developers, such as Lego, might use to "better" their products. It's title is obviously meant to be humorous.

"https://nypost.com/2017/04/13/your-baby-is-a-little-bit-racist-science-says/"

If research suggests that babies/children react to things like skin tone, it would make since for Lego to use recognizable skin tones to appeal to them. I would also assume that the realistic skin tones make the figures more easily recognizable as "people" to the children.

The last sentence in the article I linked provides another feasible answer to the question. The article reads, "Parents, the studies indicate, can help prevent destructive racial biases by exposing their children to a more diverse group of people." Based on the pictures of the sets I've seen, like the one in the answer by Magnus, they do appear to frequently contain a "diverse" range of skin tones.
> 1 votes

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Tags: minifigures, history, duplo, colour
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title: What 1x8 ski part is this?

text:
# Question
Title: What 1x8 ski part is this?
I looked through the usual places BrickLink/Rebrickable. I can't seem to find what part this is. It has no markings other then `Lego` and `LEGO Group`. I seem to remember it going to a set where this singular ski part goes in the front.

# Answer
This seems to be item No. 2823

It was part of four sets:

6342-1 **Beach Rescue Chopper**

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6545-1 **Search N' Rescue**

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6401-1 **Seaside Cabana**

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6663-1 **Wave Rebel**

*All images bricklink*
> 3 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: What can I do to repair my minifigures loose neck/head joint?
I have a number of loose neck joints on my minifigures. How can I repair them? Any suggestions?

# Answer
> 13 votes
In the old days, minifigures had a dab of paint on the neck. I don't know if it was for this purpose but it would wear off over time. You can paint some nail polish or acrylic on the neck to strengthen that connection. Thin the acrylic (use water based) before applying.

# Answer
> 4 votes
Don't tell anyone, but I've used brushable superglue to put a thin layer on the back of the neck. Then I let it fully dry, and it grips the head fine. Eventually it will wear off. It's cheaper than nail polish and very hard to see.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I'd reccomend getting some clear nail varnish and coating the pin or hole with it. I did this this earlier and it really works. The minor setback is it takes 5 minutes to dry naturaly, or 2 minutes if you apply co2 (breathe on it or blow dry it until it dries to reduce the wait time to 2 minutes). I did this on a Kai, and it works well.

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Tags: minifigures, repair
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# Question
Title: Help identifying Star Wars and maybe one another set(s)
Got these as a gift. This is supposedly Star Wars, and maybe one other set, possibly some car.

Thank you.

# Answer
The top left picture is a fragment of set #9442 "Jay's Storm Fighter".
The top right looks like another fragment of set #9442.
The bottom picture is the base of set #75053 "The Ghost".
> 4 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Star Wars 30-stud long grey triangle ship identification
Tried searching it through Google but it didn’t come up with a result. Please help me identifying this one.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Looks like the MIDI-SCALE IMPERIAL STAR DESTROYER™ - 8099

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Tags: set-identification, star-wars
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# Question
Title: 2x2 plate with round section and rubber bristles?
Very strange piece with soft rubber bristles. Bought in a misc box from a garage sale for my son and daughter.

# Answer
> 6 votes
So, the curiosity bug bit me again. The mysterious part appears to be a Kre-O "Motion Brick" which appeared in various sets. In my research I found that there is a variation (hollow vs. solid) in the studs, as shown in the picture.

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: Modified 3x2 Plate with Rubber Bristle Bottom and snap-on cover?
I've had this odd little part laying around my desk for some time - does anyone know what it is? There's no Lego logo anywhere, and I've searched BrickLink somewhat comprehensively, so I'm guessing it's from a compatible set.

It's a modified 3x2 plate, but without a hole, and the red bottom part is sort of a rubbery, grippy substance. The "cover" is softer, non-ABS plastic, and can snap onto the plate either way.

I'm guessing it came from my wife's nephews in a whole pile of stuff they gave us - mostly Lego but there was some MegaBloks stuff mixed in too. Probably not from after 2000 at the very latest.

# Answer
So, the curiosity bug bit me again. The mysterious part appears to be a Kre-O "Motion Brick" which appeared in various sets. In my research I found that there is a variation (hollow vs. solid) in the studs, as shown in the picture.
> 5 votes

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: Arduino-izing LEGO Technic - and now I need some ideas for the Lego Service Truck 8071
I am starting a project - Arduino-izing LEGO Technic - and now I need some ideas for a car / vehicle to choose.

This project starts out as a quest to find a way to combine the ease of LEGO Technic chassis building with cheap commodity electronics to motorize and remote control it.

I was looking for a vehicle that is able to work for this. This could be a simple chassis: https://www.instructables.com/id/Build-your-own-Custom-Arduino-Remote-Control-and-L/ https://www.hackster.io/Notthemarsian/take-control-over-lego-power-functions-ee0bfa https://www.instructables.com/id/Raspberry-Pi-Remote-Controlled-Car-1/

This should be a part of a robotics workshop and therefore I need a LEGO-based platform for younger kids who grew up with Lego but cannot afford to spend hundreds of dollars to buy power functions, LEGO motors, IR remote, and EV3. Thanks to numerous examples on the net and several and Youtube tutorials on integrating Arduino with LEGO, I will try to start out with an interesting example. Starting point: the kids should be able to complete this project with a small budget and I hope to incorporate this into my robotics workshop in the future. The main thing is, I need to have the rear axle to be attached to a single N20 motor to move the kart forward and reverse via a TB6612FNG motor driver. Front steering can be controlled by an SG90 servo motor.

i have chosen the Lego Service Truck 8071 - see here: https://www.lego.com/de-de/service/buildinginstructions/search?initialsearch=8071&ignorereferer=true#?text=8071

Remote control should be able to be accomplished by a cheap IR remote/receiver solution based on

Arduino Zigbee Bluetooth

I understand that the IR remote hardware (and the method) is pretty hard part to implement and learn about a remote control system so it was a perfect option for this car.

Since this is just a proof-of-concept project and the design follows function - I need to have an idea.

The main question is: How about LEGO Technic-8071 - the Service Truck?

guess that i can add the steering and motor with ease

many many thanks for all the hints -

# Answer
> 2 votes
So, after doing some research I think the most helpful solution I can offer is a picture of various techniques and a link to a straight-forward, budget friendly tutorial. I think trying to explain anything in depth would be tedious and vulnerable to misinterpretation. It also appears that super glue, hot glue, and some pieces to sacrifice/modify will be necessary.
The link: https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-izing-Lego-Technic-Go-Kart/
Pic:

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Tags: motor, electronics, arduino, technic
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# Question
Title: What is the identity of this 4-wide car bumper part from a photo?
Can anyone tell me what part this is?

# Answer
> 12 votes
It's \[Part 50949\] Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Racers Car Grille

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Tags: part-identification
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title: Difference of Lego products

text:
# Question
Title: Difference of Lego products
I came across the Lego Ideas and the original one, and it doesn't seem to have any difference. It's just a normal house, but on a book? Can somebody help me tell the difference, as my son wants to decide on his birthday present. Thanks!

# Answer
> 2 votes
The question is unclear, but I will take a stab at it.

It seems that OP found the LEGO Ideas website with the LEGO Pop-Up Book project: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/cfaf7a52-02a4-4dc0-8ec3-6b94d7c36069

Then they also saw this listing at the Online LEGO Shop: https://shop.lego.com/en-US/product/Pop-Up-Book-21315

OP thinks that both sets can be bought and is asking how the two sets are different.

To answer the question, the original LEGO Ideas submission is not for sale. Only the #21315 LEGO Ideas Pop-Up Book set can be bought.

How LEGO Ideas works is that LEGO fans can submit their own ideas they would like LEGO make into a set. If enough people like an idea and vote for it, LEGO will consider making it into an official set. Once the idea is selected, LEGO's own designers will refine the project to their own standards and make it into an official set.

The #21315 LEGO Ideas Pop-Up Book set is the result of the original submission at LEGO Ideas. It is the only version of the project that is for sale. The set is designed like a traditional pop-up book that can open with scenes that pop up from the pages.

The original LEGO fan project included suggestions for various scenes that could be used for the book. For the final set, LEGO's own designers selected two interchangeable scenes; Little Red Riding Hood with grandma's house, and Jack and the Beanstalk with a "growing" beanstalk. You can see pictures of both scenes and how they unfold and pop up at the Online LEGO Shop page: https://shop.lego.com/en-US/product/Pop-Up-Book-21315

I hope this answers OP's question. If I'm, completely off the mark and misunderstood the question and what set OP is talking about, please OP, come back and clarify your question.

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Tags: lego-group, ideas
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# Question
Title: EV3 PID line follower with medium motors
I am stuck on creating an efficient line follower with medium motors.

The problem is that the motors are rotating in different ways so I can't use the steering block.

I would appreciate any kind of help.

# Answer
From a programming perspective I can't help you since I haven't programmed anything since the Mindstorms NXT. The simplest solution I can think of, without seeing your set-up, is to offset one of the motors and add a 1:1 gear drive using 16 tooth gears that would simply reverse the motor output on that side.
> 1 votes

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Tags: ev3, ev3-g
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# Question
Title: Problem-shooting on 8070 "Super Car" with Power Functions
I have recently bought a used Lego Technic car (8070 Supercar). It was not fully built, and from the instructions I learned that it was fully built except for approximately the last 10 steps. I finished it and now there are some problems.

I assume the motor is not the most powerful for this heavy model, but it is not even possible to open the hood or the doors easily\*. I have to sometimes touch the wheels to allow them to open. This leads to the second uncertainty: If the switch for example is in position "hood" the wheels also are moving. But in a video clip I saw them open without the car moving.

I want to locate the problem with the least effort. Worst case for me is to completely de-build and then have to rebuild new. Maybe this model has known weak points I can check first?

(Please comment if you need more information or pictures!)

(\* I used new batteries ^^)

# Answer
> 4 votes
If built according to the instructions, the wheels should not be powered at all. The only motorized functions is opening the hood, doors and spoiler. Moving the wheels should not affect these functions, nor should the wheels move when operating the functions.

So my guess is that someone did a poor attempt at modding this model and you'll have to deconstruct the model further.

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Tags: technic, power-functions, electronics
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# Question
Title: Is there a software which finds alternate models for owned sets?
I know for example the catalog of BrickLink and now I wonder if there is a software which can calculate from the inventory lists which other models one can build with an owned set?

To more detail: If one owns a set with a lots of parts, there have to be some set with less parts that are included in the big set...

I have now browsed Rebrickable website, but there are only self-made instructions for owned sets. This is nice, but I searched for "original" models, which I can build of my owned sets. Did I made something wrong?

# Answer
> 5 votes
You're describing rebrickable:

https://rebrickable.com/

Besides official models, also hundreds of fan created models are available. It's a terrific resource

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Tags: sets, software, bricklink, alternate-model
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# Question
Title: Help identifying Star Wars set from troopers and white pieces
My nephew handed down his LEGO pieces to my son. Most of them seem to be Star Wars. I need help to identifying them so I can download instructions.

Appreciate your help!

# Answer
> 4 votes
Seems to be mostly from one set with a mixture of Minifigs and accessories.

*Set #10195-1 Republic Dropship with AT-OT*. (Referencing your picture, these are *generally* the bricks below your Minifigs.)

**Some Minifigs and accessories.**

*Set #8084-1 Snowtrooper Battle Pack*. (Referencing your picture, *some* of your Minifigs come from this set.)

**Headgear:** *Part 61182 Minifigure, Headgear Helmet SW Rebel Scout Trooper*. ( Comes with a black visor shown in your picture. Headgear used on the figure directly below, which is *NOT* in your picture.)

**Trans-Neon Light Saber:** *Part #30374 Bar 4L (Lightsaber Blade / Wand)*.

**Chrome Hilt:** *Part #64567 Minifigure, Weapon Lightsaber Hilt Straight.*

**Minifig:** *Part #sw0178 General Maximillian Veers - Goggles Print and Dark Bluish Gray Helmet*.

**Minifig:** *Part #Sw0166 Shadow Trooper*.

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification, star-wars
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title: Finding all my owned minifigs

text:
# Question
Title: Finding all my owned minifigs
Let's say I've uploaded all my sets to BrickSet or Rebrickable or something similar. Is there a way I can download pictures and part descriptions of all my 1000 minifigures?

Let's say I have a daughter who likes to make custom figures and then never put anything back the way it was before after she's done with it. I'd like to be able to print out a sheet of minifigure details so that she could re-assemble them. Or even so that I could reassemble them.

For "Parts description", ideally I'd have the text like you find on BrickLink:

* Light Flesh Minifigure, Head Dual Sided Black Glasses with White Lenses, Sideburns and Moustache, Neutral / Smiling Pattern (John) - Hollow Stud
* Medium Lavender Hips and 1 Dark Purple Left Leg, 1 Medium Lavender Right Leg with Yellow and Red Vertical Stripes on Sides Pattern

Better if it had part numbers so I could look those up.

Lots of minifigures have rear or side printing or dual-printed heads and it is often not obvious from a single photo what parts to look for, otherwise I could just use the pages on BrickSet.

# Answer
> 1 votes
If you have added your sets to Brickset, under "My Sets; Minifigs; View Your Minifigs" you will find all your minifigs pictured & listed by name (default). This will give you their name, ID number, and which set or sets they are from. You also have several more options to sort them by. Clicking on a picture magnify's the figure for greater detail. All of this can be printed, but given the number of minifigures you are dealing with, printing them out is going to take a lot of paper and ink and may be impractical.

If any additional information is needed, then looking up the provided figure number on Bricklink will give you the option to look at its individual components in greater detail.

Brickowl can provide you with a more compact, detailed break-down of a minifigures parts, but unfortunately doesn't use the same ID numbers as Brickset and Bricklink. These compact inventories would make it more practical to compile several figs on a single page. Perhaps Brickset may consider such a format if you were to inquire? It would be a very useful tool.

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Tags: minifigures, part-database
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# Question
Title: Technic beam centering for beam with even length
I design stereo camera housing for robotics (3d printing). I want the housing to be able to connect to both LEGO Classic and LEGO Technic blocks. I designed 2 groups of 4x4 holes/pins on the bottom/top of the case for LEGO Classic. This works fine using the camera as "intermediary" piece (connecting bricks both from bottom and top and incorporating the camera into a LEGO robot).

However I also want Technic to mate the camera. I came up with holes for Technic pins which make some of the "Classic" holes deeper. The problem is Technic uses odd number for beams so they can center with one hole. Is there a part (maybe 2-sided double-beam) that would connect even to odd and allowed me to center the camera on LEGO Technic properly?

Sure I could move the holes one step to sides (make beam 5 fit) but that would produce the same problem on the Classic side (centering, using 7x2 or 8x2 instead of 6x2).

Camera bottom side (hole in the center is for tripod screw):

Camera top side:

# Answer
Hmm... I don't know... I personally, wouldn't try to reinvent pin placement of Technic holes and Studs. I'm not saying being creative that way is too challenging. What I am saying is that, we should work with examples, or in this case parts that already bridge Classic stud width with Technic holes.

Placing pins where the studs belong seems akin to reinventing the wheel, when we *could* be building off the long work history already put into the wheel's design, and spring board off that instead.

With that said, I'd point you to a Technic 2 x 4 plate with three holes.

Replicate it, split it in half (lengthwise), and embed the top on to the top of the camera housing. Take the split bottom half and embed that into the bottom of the camera housing.

Visually, to me, the stud width of your design looks like a Technic 2x6, but there seems to be enough room to jam a Technic 2x8 in there.

For my brain to work, I like pictures. So, for piece inspiration, I'd go to *Bricklink's* database and just type "pin", "pins" or "holes" and look at the pictures of parts that have a key word in them. Doing this expands the possibilities of what could be done to make your design solid.

Also for me, it's easier to reverse engineer things I see. So, for ideas I would *BL* search these parts, look up the sets that they were in, and watch a *Youtube* * speed build of one of these Technic sets to see how the part was used, and maybe come across an ingenious way someone mated Classic studs with Technic *pinage*.

(\* When dealing with *Youtube*. Time is precious and limited, so remember we can reclaim some time by speeding up *YT* playback with the settings "*gear*".)

**EDIT**

**Another design compatibility suggestion:**

There are no pictures showing the total height of your camera rig. I'm just imagining it inside a robot, or something, and the height of it doesn't conform to the standard bricks built around it.

Try to ***standardize*** your work, by making sure the total height is equal to a pillar of bricks, and round the entire height to the nearest brick.
> 6 votes

# Answer
What if you had anti-studs where you want them, at stud-depth, but also overlaid technic holes at full technic pin depth where you want them? This would lead to a complicated, non-standard arrangement, but if you look at, eg, the new 2x1 jumper plates, they are designed to allow a stud in the middle between the two normal anti-studs. Since you have two different depths here, it might be possible to make the technic pins still click properly.

Failing that you could just not provide the full set of technic holes and instead spread them around outside the studs.
> 3 votes

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Tags: part-identification, technic, compatibility, design, robotic
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title: What's this Colour?

text:
# Question
Title: What's this Colour?
Blue on the left, unknown in the middle, dark turquoise on the right.

It's got a slightly greener tint than dark blue. Do you know if they change the color over time? It's like this on the entire brick, so I assume it's not faded.

I've tried every possible color on Bricklink and a couple color guides, I'm lost.

# Answer
The color of the 2x4 plate and 1x2 jumpers in the photo appears to be regular Dark Blue:

The greenish tint you mention is likely discoloration. Here is an example of a discolored regular blue piece (right) next to a fairly new regular blue piece (left) for comparison:

How uniform or consistent the discoloraton is depends on the cause and/or whether the piece was assembled when it occurred.
> 6 votes

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Tags: part-identification, colour
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title: Can you help me identify this set?

text:
# Question
Title: Can you help me identify this set?
I have this lone bag, and I think it contains a full vehicle, but it's from a bigger set, I believe, because of the number 2. Anyone know what set? I need instructions. (Dear Lego, please put set numbers on bags!) Thanks for your help!

# Answer
> 12 votes
This bag is part of Set **76015-1** from 2014

* **Ultimate Spider-Man, Doc Ock Truck Heist**

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: How can I make Custom Instructions for my MOC?
I'm a huge AFOL and recently have quit my job in order to take my part time job of selling Lego to the next level. However, there's a new venture I'm having difficulty with and I would greatly appreciate if anyone has any advice for me...

\** I have made a number of custom MOC's and my plan is to create instruction booklet's for the best ones and hopefully sell those online as well. I'm aware that Lego creator is available, however, I'm trying to construct a more tangible set of directions similar to the official Lego instruction booklets you'd receive with one of their sets.

I've seen similar custom directions (without any bricks included) on eBay and so basically I would like to know how that's made possible.

\**Are there any businesses or individuals whom have the capability to create such instructions? Any representatives or recommendations you have for me would be great appreciated.

The Lego and AFOL community is amongst the nicest/helpful groups of people I've ever had the pleasure of being involved with, and I'm looking forwards to meeting even more of you this upcoming weekend at The Philly Brick Fest!!!!!!

# Answer
> 3 votes
* LIC is the Lego Instruction Creator
    + it's a tool some people use to make instructions.
    + I would say it's for "power users" though, so it may not be for you.
* If I were you I might change the title of this question to something indicative of your search for someone to do this work for you.
* As you are probably aware, there are Lego forums which are devoted to MOCs -- so I would solicit for some help there (Try https://rebrickable.com/forum/ )

# Answer
> 1 votes
Film while you take it apart, then playback in reverse.

# Answer
> 0 votes
Google LDraw. It takes some knowledge to use it, but the LPub software that optionally comes with it can make custom instructions. PS: I personaly recommend using MLCad.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I never made an instruction but to build some MOC's I have used the OpenSource Software Blender to create 3D-Models. There you can create the bricks needed and put them togehter in an easy way and render the images.

# Answer
> -3 votes
Are you still looking for lego instructions? I actually offer a service for this (through Fiverr), which I feel is quite affordable and rather professional.

Let me know if you are interested! I have 4 years experience with ldd and can help with that too.

Hopefully I can help you with that :)

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Tags: instructions, customization, moc
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# Question
Title: Can you help me identify this set? (Emergency vehicles maybe?)
Bags are numbered 1-3. It looks like it maybe is some sort of emergency vehicle set? Bag 3 looks like a fire truck and bag 1 maybe a police car?

Thank you!

# Answer
> 4 votes
Looks like *Set# 60060-1 Auto Transporter.*

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Tags: set-identification, instructions, city
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# Question
Title: Why isn't the new LEGO CV joint available on Bricklink or Brickowl?
In the new 4x4 X-treme Off-Roader set 42099 there are 2 new, sturdier CV joint pieces that I would like to have. If I search for 42099 on Bricklink I don't see a list of pieces included in the set. I usually use a website called "Brickowl" (https://www.brickowl.com/) and there is a button that reads "inventory" so I can see all the pieces that come with the set. There doesn't seem to be such a button on Bricklink and on Brickowl I can't see the piece at all. Any info on why the CV is not there or how to access the inventory on Bricklink would be very much appreciated.

# Answer
As Henrik stated, they are simply too new. Lego shop has the set listed but with an incomplete parts inventory at the time of this answer. One additional problem I found is that they have even failed to list one of the two parts necessary to complete this joint in the instruction manual itself. I found this information on the review by Huw on Brickset (part 1);

> "The light grey part is element number 6262966. The dark grey part is not included in the inventory at the back of the instructions for some reason."

Also on a Youtube video by Sariel linked in the Brickset review (part 2), right about the 3:00 mark:

https://youtu.be/h7NkzWooPvk
> 4 votes

# Answer
The sellers on bricklink/brickowl doesn't have ways to get elements before they become generally available.

As 42099 is brand new, pieces that are (currently) unique to that set probably hasn't made it to those sites yet. Have some patience, they will likely be there shortly.

Those sites rely on users submitting inventories so until somebody submits one, there won't be one (bricklink actually shows: "Inventory Pending Approval", so it probably won't be long).
> 9 votes

# Answer
As the one who provided the inventory for an unrelated set, 70825 Queen Watevra's Build Whatever Box!, another set that introduced brand new and (at the time) unique part molds, I can provide a firsthand answer on why this is.

On sites like BrickLink, all catalog items are user-provided data, and aren't automatically mined from LEGO or some other database (unlike Brickset, which does pull inventory data directly from LEGO). This means that if a set contains new elements, meaning any of

* new prints,
* new recolors of existing molds,
* or new molds altogether,

then a user, preferably with a physical and complete copy of the set, must create requests to add these new elements to the BrickLink catalog as part of the process of inventorying the set. The process of adding an item involves determining the part ID by looking at the part itself, providing a photograph, and naming the part (often a BrickLink-specific name that's more meaningful than the official LEGO name).

As long as this is not yet done, the element will not be present on the BrickLink catalog. But for almost every set, eventually, someone will. It's only a matter of time.

The set I inventoried (70825), for example, contains four unique printed 1x4x3 bricks. This size of brick, whose part number according to the mold itself is 49311, first appeared only in this set at the beginning of 2019 and didn't start appearing in other sets until later that year. So I had to manually add four new parts to BrickLink with the number 49311 (and a suffix corresponding to each of the four prints) and wait for them to be approved by a catalog admin. The immediate next step is then adding the inventory of the entire set to the BrickLink catalog, although technically once a part itself is in the catalog it'll already be searchable by its part number.

Similarly, somebody with a copy of 42099 needs to examine (both parts of) the CV joint, provide appropriate names and images, submit a request to add it to the BrickLink catalog, and then inventory the entire set (not even LEGO has a complete inventory of it yet online according to Brickset, and that's on top of the unfortunate oversight in the instructions!) before you'll be able to find it through that set's inventory. As mentioned, this will eventually happen, so just sit tight.
> 5 votes

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Tags: piece-information, technic, shopping, brickowl
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title: Boosters from set 71214 Benny don't fit

text:
# Question
Title: Boosters from set 71214 Benny don't fit
The booster pieces don't fit into their place on Benny's Dimensions set (71214). I'm talking about the bigger booster in the middle.

This seems to be a really common problem, but is there a fix?

# Answer
> 1 votes
I experimented with several different "rocket" pieces (3963) and both variations of the "tap" piece (4599a & 4599b) despite the set listing only the "b" variant, and could not replicate the issue. There obviously had to have been a "bad" batch (or "fault" as mentioned by TheBrickBlogger) of one of the two pieces that unfortunately made it to some customers. The simplest solution, if you don't have any extra parts of this type, would be to put a tiny piece of paper or tape on the tip of the nozzle before inserting it into the rocket piece. Another suggestion, if you have a couple of 1x1 round plates with open studs (part #85861), is to insert these into the rocket holes to hold the nozzles in place. There is just enough room for them:

Also, as mentioned above by TheBrickBlogger, Lego would probably be more than happy to replace any defective parts you were to encounter. Even though this is an old question I hoped maybe an answer could still be useful for someone with a similar piece problem. (In case anyone noticed, I didn't have any of that piece in blue for the nose piece)

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Tags: lego-dimensions
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# Question
Title: What is the longest 1×x brick ever released?
Out of curiosity: How long can a 1×x brick be?

When there are differences, I can think of the following categories:

* Longest brick ever included in a regular Lego set
* Longest brick ever available through other channels
* Longest brick produced ever and visible on exhibits or other occasions, but unavailable to the public

EDIT: I am only interested in bricks made by LEGO, clone brands do not count.

# Answer
> 6 votes
If you mean specifically Lego bricks, I'm pretty sure the 1x16 was/is the longest one made. Outside of the 1x? sized bricks, the longest plain shaped brick that I know of is part #30072 or #47122 at 24 studs long. I don't know about other brands though.

Interesting related post:
What is the largest single LEGO piece?

# Answer
> 5 votes
You didn't say anything about **modified** 1 x bricks.

* This is **Item 47978** and it is actually listed as a **2x24** brick, because of the added bit in the middle.

# Answer
> 5 votes
This technic rack is 1x20 and is exactly 1 wide, no hanging out bits

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=2428#T=C

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Tags: size, records
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title: What is up with Jack Stone's legs?

text:
# Question
Title: What is up with Jack Stone's legs?
A recent question regarding identifying a Jack Stone minifigure included this surprising picture of the back of the minifig.

I was totally amazed by this because I had never seen a minifig with a leg pattern like that on the back. Was this unique to this figure for some reason? What could you do with this that couldn't happen with normal minifig legs?

# Answer
As TheBrickBlogger has already pointed out, all of the figures from this theme are very different from a normal minifigure:

The backs of the legs on these figures are made to interface with Lego studs for seating purposes, which is probably fairly obvious. So, I am assuming that the holes with narrow gaps between them may be the focal point of the "unique shape" you mentioned. At first glance they appear to look very much like Key Hole Hangers, which suggests they may lock into/onto something.

But, after closer examination of a clearer picture, you can see that these slots provide clearance for the leg hinge assembly instead. This extra range of motion is well fitted for a theme based on "Action" scenarios. It probably provides some stress relief on the parts at the pinch point also:
> 1 votes

# Answer
The LEGO 4 Juniors figures (also called Jack Stone figures) are significantly different from regular LEGO minifigures. They are much larger, and are not intended to be taken apart like regular LEGO minifigures. They are closer to the LEGO DUPLO figures in this regard with non-removable head, torso, arms, legs, etc.

Having said that, if you remove the head with a hobby knife (yes, you have to cut through the plastic), the rest of the body can be taken apart into smaller components. Take a look at the picture below to see what a disassembled Jack Stone figure looks like. Source: http://thebrickblogger.com/2011/02/lego-4-juniors-minifig-customization/
> 3 votes

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Tags: minifigures, juniors
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# Question
Title: When was this Lego Adventurers T-Shirt produced?
When was this Lego Adventurers T-Shirt produced, and what is its model number?

The link says 1998. Is it correct? And where can I see the full design?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/352740773574

# Answer
The shirt itself says 1998 on it, which coincides with the earliest known release of a set for that theme.

Here it is advertised on/in this 1999 January/February issue of Lego Mania magazine:

(https://www.flickr.com/photos/timlydy/22805063335/in/photostream/)

Given this was advertised at the very beginning of 1999, I think it is safe to assume that 1998 is the correct date for when the T-shirt and Magazine were printed. As for a model number, as Alexander O'Mara mentioned, it's listed on Bricklink as TS10. I am not familiar with model numbers for Lego clothing, or if they even have them. Bricklink has likely created their own format for designating a number to a particular design to simplify and clarify it's identification for buyers and sellers.
> 5 votes

# Answer
# Year:

Probably 1999.

The Jungle Adventurers sets were released in 1999, and it seems likely that it would be released that same year. The full design below shows this is the Adventurers line it corresponds to.

There is a copyright on the design, which turns out to be 1998, but it likely predates the actual release which seems to have been in January 1999.

# Model Number:

Unclear if it really has one.

BrickLink lists it as TS10.

# Design:

(source: BrickLink)

(source: Grailed)

(source: Grailed)
> 4 votes

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Tags: set-identification, apparel
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# Question
Title: Where to find this green transparent brick?
Where can I find this lego brick?

I have one but I want some more of them for a project.

# Answer
> 8 votes
Your brick appears to be trans-neon-green, an extremely rare color for 2x4 bricks. It never appeared in any set and it is only traded between collectors. You would be paying over $50 for a brick like that if you are lucky enough to find it. It would probably be best to pick another color, or another brick-size for your project. Trans-neon-green also comes in 1x2 size, which is more readily available.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Could it be this one: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=3001f1 ? In translucent yellow it sells for about $2 a piece and is also quite rare.

# Answer
> 0 votes
At the time of this answer, 8 are listed in Bricklink:

They appear slightly different than the one in the photo though:

You get a discount if you buy more than one. For only $275.00-ish USD they can be yours! That is going to be one very expensive MOC :D

# Answer
> -2 votes
**Could this be what you're looking for?**

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Tags: piece-information, shopping, lego-store
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title: Is the LEGO Space theme discontinued?

text:
# Question
Title: Is the LEGO Space theme discontinued?
I really liked Space when I was a kid. And now is the time when my friends have kids old enough to play, and I'm old enough to admit I like to play. But I can't see any space sets except realistic City ones, and Star Wars.

Is there any official or trustworthy unofficial source that says if Lego own Space series are officially over, or will reappear in future? Note, I'm not asking you to guess, I'm asking about possibly existing sources.

# Answer
At this time, there has been no announcement of a scheduled unlicensed LEGO Space theme. LEGO is not going to make an announcement that *"We forever and ever retired LEGO Space, and it will never-ever come back."* It's just not going to happen. In addition, they don't reveal what they are working on, until it is time for an official announcement - usually about six months or less before release.

However, there is no need to wait and hope that LEGO Space will come back soon. You can still buy all the previously released LEGO Space sets on the secondary market like eBay and BrickLink. You can buy them brand new in the box, or used, or anything in between. Many of the sets sell for very reasonable prices - especially those from recently retired LEGO Space themes like Alien Conquest, Galaxy Squad, Space Police, etc. I would suggest first checking the BrickLink Catalog to familiarize yourself with all the unlicensed LEGO Space sets ever released on this page.

Also check the going prices for the sets you would like both in new and used condition (all of this is listed in the BrickLink Catalog). Besides buying individual sets on eBay or BrickLink, once you get a sense of what LEGO Space themes you would like to focus on, you can also check on eBay for bulk lots. These will likely be in used condition, and there may be some parts missing, so make sure you read the description carefully. Bulk lots can be great starters for a kid's collection.
> 9 votes

# Answer
Although the stand-alone, unlicensed Space *theme* technically remains discontinued, LEGO has recently released an unlicensed Space sub-theme *under* their City theme.

While these builds seem to be more "near future" than the classic *Space* sets, they can be whatever you want them to be. This is LEGO we are talking about, use your imagination to figure out how these sets might link in with classic *Space* sets or factions or even licensed themes.

For example, you could have the Mars Research Shuttle below land on Titan, where it encounters a legion of Blacktron Battraxes (Battraces?) led by General Sweet Mayhem and must call for help from Iron Man, who arrives in a TIE fighter.
> 5 votes

# Answer
While Space as a theme isn't listed, it is specified as a category on the LEGO site.

https://www.lego.com/en-gb/products/categories/space

This includes

31066 - Shuttle Explorer

21312 - Women of NASA

21309 - NASA Apollo Saturn V

And the soon (hopefully) to be added

10266 - NASA Apollo 11 Lunar Lander
> 2 votes

# Answer
According to this advert Lego are running on Facebook they are still making "Lego Space" so it can't be discontinued.
> 1 votes

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Tags: sets, space
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# Question
Title: 3x3 black Technic bracket piece needs identifying
I need some of this part but I’m struggling to find any sets they came in:

# Answer
BrickLink calls it Technic, Pin Connector Toggle Joint Smooth Double with Axle and Pin Holes.

It comes in a number of sets listed here.
> 5 votes

# Answer
Here is some detail of the sets containing the part listed in order of year released (newest first). The green highlighted sets are currently still available on Lego Shop.com (US) at the time of this answer:

Since most sets didn't/don't come with very many of this piece, you're best bet is probably sourcing them from Bricklink or somewhere similar. They're about .20 cents (USD) or less on Bricklink.

They are also available for purchase individually at Lego Shop.com for .42 cents (USD):
https://www.lego.com/en-us/service/replacementparts/sale
> 3 votes

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Tags: part-identification, technic
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# Question
Title: Identification of vintage sloping window piece
I'm trying to identify the yellow one, the red 60598 ones are for reference.

This is definitely Lego, it is written in the hollow studs. It does not have a part number underneath, only an 01 and a separate 3. I can’t find it in any of the usual databases.

The yellow I’m trying to identify is 1x4 at the base, 3 bricks tall, leans back by on row at the top but is slightly wider than 4 studs at the top approx 4.5 so the overall dimensions are 2 x 4.5 x 3.

# Answer
> 11 votes
On the hint from Uli I was able to find it:

(All credit to Uli for the find :)

# Answer
> 13 votes
Must be

* Fabuland Front Window Squared Small, Part **x652** on peeron.com

*(image source peeron.com)*

# Answer
> -1 votes
Looks like part 4447 window 4x4x3 Roof.

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Scroll screen in EV3 Home Edition program
I'm using LEGO Mindstorms EV3 Home Edition program to program my robot. Typically a program becomes wider than the screen. However, no horizontal scrollbars appear on screen.

So how can I view and edit my entire program if there are no scrollbars? There is no vertical scrollbar, but for that I can use my mouse's scrollwheel.

# Answer
Using the mouse, you can click on the gray arrows on the edges of the screen (indicated with red arrows below). You will need to close the Content Editor to be able to see the one on the right clearly.

Another option using the mouse is to use the "pan" tool. Click on the tool icon that looks like a hand (circled in red below). Then use it to click and drag anywhere in the work area.

You can also use the keyboard arrow keys. First click on any blank white space to make sure that no blocks are selected, then press the arrow keys to scroll.
> 3 votes

# Answer
You can click your mouse on screen outside the blocks of your program and then use arrow keys to scroll the program
> 2 votes

# Answer
The easiest way for me, is using `SPACE` key. Press down and hold `SPACE` while dragging the programming canvas, the canvas should move with your cursor.
> 1 votes

# Answer
Use different editor as in mobile
> 0 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, ev3-g
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title: How is this kind of structure made?

text:
# Question
Title: How is this kind of structure made?
Recently I found a MOC made by Headzsets from Instagram, in particular this interesting structure from his EVA work. Here is a picture of his structure:

(https://www.instagram.com/p/BtCymDRHJx6/)

How does he have two 1 x 1 x 2/3 slopes like this? Are there any sets with this kind of structure that I can buy on the market so I can learn this building technique?

# Answer
Just to add a little to the answer by TheBrickBlogger, the blue piece holding the purple 1x1 slope is likely this one:

Here is a really simple example of one of the many ways this can be accomplished:

The hollow stud allows positioning to be "jumped". Hope this is helpful :)
> 12 votes

# Answer
The black cheese-slope is attached to the stud below, and the purple cheese-slope is attached to the upside-down stud above it. The two cheese slopes are not attached to each other, but are held in place by the studs and the other pieces around them.

Cheese-slope techniques have been extensively researched by LEGO fan Katie Walker, who is well known for her cheese-slope mosaics. Her research into the techniques has been used by many other LEGO fans and also published in books.

If you would like to understand the techniques better, I highly recommend the following article by Katie: Cheese-Slope Mosaics: A Tutorial It includes extensive explanation of the techniques as well as pictures with demonstrations.
> 10 votes

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Tags: building, design
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# Question
Title: Looking for sets with lots of printed parts or other special parts to use as components for my city
I'm thinking about building an early 20th century ('30s / '40s) European city, using both complete sets and parts of sets as resources

I'm looking for pieces that add detail to this city, both outside (streets & parks) & inside the buildings... from sofas & benches to kitchen sinks & traffic signs.

I don't really like using stickers and I'd like to avoid them altogether, but I do love printed pieces.

So I wonder... Can some of you folks recommend some sets that have lots of printed parts or other special parts that could help me add detail to my city?

I would prefer sets that haven't been discontinued. However, feel free to recommend discontinued sets if you think they're a great match for me needs.

# Answer
All of the decorations in the LEGO Juniors (now called LEGO 4+) sets are printed, and they tend to have a lot of nice decorations. Decorated parts in the LEGO Ideas sets are also almost always printed, but double check this because at least some of the sets also have stickers.

There is not one set which is going to be full of printed parts, and sets with printed parts tend to be more expensive when it comes to price per piece. If you are looking for a large quantity of specific printed elements, you are better off to just order exactly what you want from BrickLink, the online LEGO marketplace.
> 3 votes

# Answer
Lego has somewhat recently started a theme called Xtras, if case you weren't aware. They have a variety of odds & ends great for detailing builds. They do have some printed tiles in a few of the packs, but probably not quite the variety you're after. If you can't find the printed elements needed for your build elsewhere, you might try the 853921 sticker pack as a last resort.
> 3 votes

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Tags: piece-information, building, sets, city, customization
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title: Is this grey piece a LEGO part?

text:
# Question
Title: Is this grey piece a LEGO part?
I have this piece in our box of random LEGO. It doesn’t have any studs to connect to so wonder if it’s even a LEGO piece.

Added a picture with other pieces for size perspective.

# Answer
> 11 votes
It is not LEGO but a clip for a Playmobil cannon.

https://www.libble.de/playmobil-7683/p/561335/

# Answer
> 0 votes
This piece doesn't look like any actual Lego piece that I am familiar with. The way the back of it is designed it looks likely that it snaps onto something. I'll throw a guess out here and suggest it possibly came off of a toy train or model train wheel assembly. It looks vaguely similar to the outside section of Lego part# 2878 (Train Wheel RC Train, Holder).

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information, clone-brands
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