# Question
Title: Verify authenticity of the Star Wars Snowtrooper minifig
I recently acquired a number of Lego Star Wars minifigures from an online seller who's looking to dispose his full collection. However, after I bought some of them and carefully inspected each part at home, I get rather confused...

1. Helmet - There's no "LEGO" logo anywhere in the helmet. Is that legit?
2. Faces - All are black, round, with no "LEGO" anywhere. Is this legit too?
3. Torso - Only what seems to be "LEGO" on the stud connecting to the head that's somewhat "punched" in the middle. Legit?
4. Feet - 2 of them have the "LEGO" on the left feet, and 1 has both feet with "LEGO". 2 of the "LEGO" in the centre area do not have the copyright icon, and 1 has. Too many "LEGO"s also suspicious?
5. Weapon - This is the one that got me most confused. These 3 do not have the "LEGO" word on them, but there's a copyright icon and number on the side. They are numbered 2, 5, and 7. I can't make any sense here. So are they legit?

Sincerely looking forward to help please.... P.S. I'm restricted to posting only 2 pictures *.*"

# Answer
It's hard to be certain without some more pictures or information to narrow down when these minifigs were produced, but it sounds like what you have are some of the older Snowtroopers with the helmet and backpack attached in a single piece. Based on that assumption and the details you provided, I think you are looking at authentic Lego, with the possible exception of the blasters.

Point by point:

1. I couldn't find a LEGO logo in any of my helmets, but it did look like there was a copyright icon in the central anti-stud.
2. Many of the older snow/storm/clone troopers have blank, black heads. The ones that do not have a solid central stud hole (but a triangular arrangement of holes) do not have a LEGO logo.
3. Your description matches my torsos. All have the LEGO logo on the top of the neck stud, somewhat obscured by what I assume is where the mold injected the plastic.
4. The legs all sound legitimate to me. I was able to find minifigs that matched the variations you describe.
5. These seem suspect. I was unable to find any in my collection that matched these patterns of printing. In all of mine, there was printing in the recessed "bolt" section of the barrel. None of them had printing on the trigger section.
> 5 votes

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Tags: minifigures, star-wars
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# Question
Title: Overview of online LEGO discussion forums?
To help give an outsider an overview of the online LEGO community:

**What are the main online discussion forums in the LEGO world? Who hangs out where? What are the popular special interest forums?**

For example:

* LEGO Message Boards is operated by LEGO® and appears to be targeted at (and popular with) the younger generation of builders. The number of members and posts is not apparent.

This question applies specifically to online communities centered around the threaded discussion forum format.

Related questions:

# Answer
The main discussion boards for teen and adult LEGO fans are as follows:

EuroBricks Forum \- this is one of the oldest and most established LEGO fan forums with a huge number of discussions going on at any given time. You can find everything here from news, to custom building, to contests.

Brickset Forum \- this is the second largest LEGO forum, mostly focused on collecting LEGO sets.

Reddit Forum \- this is a very active forum in the standard Reddit format, focusing mainly on breaking news, shopping deals, and helping out those who are new to the hobby.

BrickLink Forum \- this is another very old forum, mainly focused on buying and selling LEGO.

BrickPicker \- for those who are into buying, selling and investing in LEGO. It has set & build reviews, availability information, deals on buying LEGO etc.

There are many other, smaller forums specialized on a specific topic (like customization, castle building, Technic building, LEGO Star Wars, etc.), but if you participate in any of the big ones mentioned above, you will be well connected and informed.
> 7 votes

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Tags: lego-group, afol, sociology
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# Question
Title: Unidentified LEGO 6 bag set dated 2007, sand, dark grey, and dark red pieces with small dinosaur statues
There's six bags here dated 2007:

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

# Answer
> 1 votes
Most parts are from 7627-1: Temple of the Crystal Skull, based on Wall Element 1X6X5, Abs and Limb Element,

There are also some parts from 3315-1: Olivia's House is the photo's, like: Wall Element 1X6X5, Abs, Fence 1X4X2 W. 4 Knobs & Flat Tile 1X4.

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Tags: set-identification
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title: LEGO Technic Unimog crane will not turn

text:
# Question
Title: LEGO Technic Unimog crane will not turn
I finished the Unimog from LEGO 2 or 3 years ago, and I noticed this issue, but now I'm getting pretty angry because I still can't find the problem. It seems to be that when I use the instructions for the function that should turn the crane, it doesn't turn. All other functions work but unfortunately the turning, one of the coolest functions, does nothing. Any recommendations?

# Answer
When rotation / movements is blocked in a pneumatic set, this is often caused by the routing of the hoses.

Remove the crane and check if its possible to rotate the crane by hand. If not, check if the hoses have enough slack to allow movement, or try the re-route them again.
> 6 votes

# Answer
This can have many causes, starting at the gearbox, followed by the transmission of torque to the turntable, the build of the turntable itself and as Joost wrote, the pneumatic hoses or other components can also interfere with the correct operation.

I would recommend following the path of the torque from the motor to the gear that turns the turntable and keeping an eye open for any locking pieces or possible sources of extreme friction.

If you can't find the cause, you could take some highly detailed photos of the aforementioned areas and I'll gladly check them with my Unimog to see if I can spot a difference.
> 2 votes

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Tags: technic
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# Question
Title: Identification of a piece, 1x1 bar piece with studs and handle
Sorry for the small image, but does anyone know what number that piece is?

# Answer
> 4 votes
This is 4599b - Tap 1x1 without hole in end.

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Bracket identification, 1x2 plate with 2x2 sideways overhang
I would like to know the name of these pieces.

The grey one (not the one with the towball socket)

(edit: found, it is 6009014 "Bracket 1 x 2 - 2 x 2") and the green one, they're similar but the grey one have the studs on the "inner" part, I think.

Edit: Found the grey one, still need the green.

# Answer
> 3 votes
The pieces are Bracket 1 x 2 - 2 x 2 and Bracket 1 x 2 - 2 x 2 Inverted. The grey piece is actually the inverted one.

# Answer
> 0 votes
The numbers should be printed underneath, then it's just a matter of finding the right colour e.g. look up part 44728 on BrickSet.com and you get http://brickset.com/parts/design-44728, then I'd say the right colour was dark green giving you http://brickset.com/parts/4212471

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Are Bandai "Figmes" compatible with LEGO?
According to gizmodo Bandai is releasing a new line of "Figmes" that look astounding similar to our beloved s. Here is the set:

And here is one close up:

Close up the hands look even better, but the legs look a little mushy.

So:

* Does anybody have an early "Figme" or do we have to wait for March?
* Can you test it with genuine LEGO for fit?
* Can we get a side-by-side picture with a legit minifig?
* What do the bottoms and backs look like?

# Answer
> 3 votes
### Yes, they fit!

With a little research I have learned that the hands can hold standard bar pieces, and the legs are compatible with studs. However, sitting won't work, and pieces can't be swapped for minifigure parts.

The backs look like the front, solid printed plastic.

# Answer
> 1 votes
Judging by the layout, it would probably fit with normal Lego sets and bricks, because the same goes with mega block figures. Although they won't fit in closed spaces where there is only a 1 x 1 space, in general, if you have space, they will fit. Also, with those legs being just about the same as those of Lego minifigs, they would probably fit right in. Another question that might show up is, do you know if there are slots in the back of their legs so they can sit? The layout is the same, I guess, but everybody LOVES minifigs that can sit and actually stay there (in this case, mega block figs can't stay), right? Just kidding, not everybody does, but are there holes in the back of the legs?

# Answer
> 1 votes
These minifigures would definitely fit with lego, just like other companies, such as mega bloks and kreo. As Chicks stated though, they may not be able to sit down. Also, as a warning, these minifigures have very poor paint.

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Tags: minifigures, compatibility, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: How much does an average LEGO brick cost to produce?
I know that LEGO bricks approximately sell for 10 cents per piece but what does it cost to make an average brick?

# Answer
> 4 votes
I found that looking to the website http://www.custompartnet.com/estimate/injection-molding/ is a great help to figuring out how much stuff costs.

I started with a quantity of 1 million, as Lego would make bricks in huge quantities.
Small envelope of around an inch for the standard brick, .1 in thickness on the top is the most, looked up the volume online, and chose the other options logically.

Material and Production is all we care about, so...

2 cents + 3.3 Cents = ~5 cents per brick!

It might even be a little cheaper assuming they produce in China.

# Answer
> 3 votes
There is no official production cost information that I'm aware of.

There's cost related to research, set design, mold making, the actual plastic pellets, packaging, shipping, marketing. Then there's money coming in from video games, and they might actually lose money on the theme parks. Some of the inventory is sold at discounted prices, some might be stuck on shelves or warehouses for years.

> In 2012, 45.7 billion LEGO bricks were produced at a rate of 5.2 million per hour.

http://education.lego.com/nl-be/about-us/lego-education-worldwide/lego-facts

> The year's operating profit increased to GBP 866 million. The year's net profit increased to GBP 611 million The revenue increased to GBP 2,549 million.

https://wwwsecure.lego.com/en-GB/aboutus/news-room/2013/february/annual-result-2012

Now that's 2549/45700 = 0.055 GBP = 0.088 USD per sold piece. Profit is a third of that, expenses 2 thirds. Assume my math is correct so an average brick production cost at 6 cents for 2012 ? Should be interesting to check this for more that 1 year.

# Answer
> 2 votes
I was also wondering that and searching internet about it and I found a detailed research about the LEGO prices in http://www.realityprose.com/what-happened-with-lego/

It is seen that price per brick is variable but e.g. in 2011 it is said that it was like 12 cents.

However, there is more detailed and interesting information at the link above.

# Answer
> 0 votes
You can buy a bag of 1.000 LEGO bricks for 50€.

If you do the maths, they must produce under 5 cents/unit in order to sell those bags on profit.

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Tags: manufacturing
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# Question
Title: How many mystery collectiable minifig bags to buy to get them all?
There are 16 distinct LEGO minifigures in a collectible series. They are sold individually in "mystery" bags so that you cannot tell which one is inside.

**To get all 16 minifigures, what's the expected number of bag purchases I need to make?**

For simplicity let's make the assumption that the probability of a single bag containing a specific minifigure always is 1/16.

In fact, you may sometimes be able to buy a case with 60 of these bags, guaranteed to contain the complete series. And you may swap figures on the Internet. Let's ignore such options for this question.

# Answer
**55 Bags**

If the distribution is assumed to be completely random (not necessarily true), and of a large enough group to make your purchases not effect the total probability (likely) then this is an alternate of a classic math problem known as the Coupon Collector's Problem:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coupon\_collector%27s\_problem

There are many discussions of this and other probability problems in the Mathematics Stack Exchange.

Avoiding all the maths The answer for 16 individual units is 55.

If they have a case of 60 with a guaranteed full set, personally I'd buy it rather than depend on the random distribution of bags.
> 5 votes

# Answer
**16 Bags**

I know the question was phrased as a sort of math problem, but most LEGO fans solve it as a sort of LEGO problem. The bags are opaque, so you cannot see what's in the bags, but almost everywhere they are sold you can feel the bags, and you can determine what figure is in the bag. With the exception of the recent Soccer Team figures, collectible minifigures are always unique in terms of what parts are in the bag. Just shake and squeeze the bag until the distinctive piece is found.

The problem with the math way: One can compute the probability of, say, picking two matching socks out of a drawer of miscellaneous socks, or of picking a whole collection of figures out of a box of figures. But there are a few complications:

* Someone else has been there before you and squeezed the bags to find all the space marines.
* Someone else has been there before you and grabbed a few at random, but then squeezed a few more bags to find the Princess.
* The store takes what's left from the first box and jams it into the second box when the box runs low; or they don't even display them in the original box, making it impossible to know how many boxes are in play and how many figures have been picked.
* There are usually 16 figures in a collection and 60 figures in a box; this means the figures cannot be evenly distributed. Some series have had as few as two of one figure in the box. Given that, it's entirely possible (though unlikely) to pick 58 figures and miss both of that elusive Unicorn Girl.

If squeezing the bags isn't an option, the only way to be sure is to buy a new, unopened box.
> 6 votes

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Tags: collectable-minifigures
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title: TIE Fighter instructions

text:
# Question
Title: TIE Fighter instructions
Need to know what instructions go with this set. Bought them this year from LEGO store. My kids lost the instructions. Comes with three separate bags in the set. Please help I'm trying to give it to my neighbor kid. My boys are still way too young for this set.

# Answer
LEGO have instructions for all their recent sets, and many older ones available directly from their website:

https://wwwsecure.us.lego.com/en-gb/service/buildinginstructions

There you can search for a specific set number, or search by theme ("Star Wars TM") and year of release - for example 75101 can be found here.
> 3 votes

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Tags: instructions, star-wars
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# Question
Title: Rescued Minifigure ID, read torso with armor and yellow head with mustache and glasses
I found this poor guy in a stream by a school. I assume the pieces are cobbled together, but I want the ID of the head and body, as I might be able to salvage them.

Keep being awesome, guys!

# Answer
> 2 votes
You are right, the parts are from different minifigs:

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: I bought a LEGO set from a yardsale and have no instructions, box or date
I want to find out what LEGO set I have so I can get some instructions for it. I'll add some pictures of the pieces as that's about all I can do.

I hope this is enough for someone to be to figure out which set this is.

# Answer
If the boat is dark blue then the set is almost certain to be set 60069-1 **Swamp Police Station** since according to Bricklink it is the only occurrence of the boat (part 62812 Boat, Rubber Raft, Large) in dark blue.

The presence of the bars (parts 92586 and 60621) with white frame\[s\] (part 60596) and light bluish gray radar disk thingy (part 4285b) confirm this theory.

However, I was unable to identify the large black piece near the top-left of your picture, or find something similar to it in the set's inventory. Is this a single piece? If so it is probably not part of the rest of the set.
> 3 votes

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Tags: set-identification, city
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# Question
Title: LEGO Friends set identification from sealed bag
I have the unopened bags of a LEGO Friends set, but I can't find any number to identify the set.

# Answer
This bag is from 3315 - Olivia's House.

The instructions for this set can be found here on the LEGO Customer Service Site.
> 4 votes

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Tags: set-identification, friends
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# Question
Title: Need help identifying these castle pieces
Wondering which set these castle pieces are from?

# Answer
They're likely from King's Castle (70404):
> 0 votes

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Tags: set-identification, castle
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# Question
Title: Identify classic City sets from box of assembled parts
I have quite a few models: a gas station, airports, police station, and a lot more including a battery powered cart. They are all built on gray road baseplates. I also have trees, benches, people, police cars, others cars, and a service station or fire department

# Answer
From left to right in your first photo:

Police Station (6384):

Fire Copter 1:

Motorcycle Shop (6373):

Fire Patrol Copter (6657):

Fire Station (6382):

Your second photo includes:

Gas Station (6375):

Delivery Center (6377):

Paramedic Unit (6364):

I may have missed some smaller sets, but based on your two pictures, that's what stuck out at me.
> 2 votes

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Tags: set-identification, city
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# Question
Title: Why didn't LEGO make a Creative Building Box for Technic parts?
LEGO has many great Creative Building Boxes, especially the `LEGO 10697: XXXL Box`.

Why hasn't LEGO come out with a Creative Building Box that consists of Technic parts?

# Answer
> 4 votes
One answer is that TLG actually has done something similar in the past. They used to produce universal sets that were roughly equivalent to the Creative Box that you're referencing. Here's an example:

These sets all included lots of basic Technic parts and instructions for 3+ models to get you started building.

This is getting into the realm of speculation, but TLG stopped producing the universal sets right before Mindstorms launched, so I would guess that they felt that Mindstorms filled the free creative building niche and didn't want multiple subthemes in that space. The primary Mindstorms sets include a wide variety of multipurpose parts, instructions for multiple models, and encourage free building and exploration rather than just building a single main model. So, a second answer could be that Mindstorms is the Technic equivalent of the current "Bricks and Pieces" line.

I do think that it would be nice to have sets exactly like what you are describing. I grew up with a few of the universal sets, and they were great. If you're looking to get something like this, it's worth noting that there have been some sets like this recently in the Education line, such as Simple Machines (9689), but those tend to be overpriced in my opinion. You're better off just picking up the parts the you want from Bricklink.

# Answer
> 1 votes
Just to mention there is a book from Klutz "LEGO Crazy Action Contraptions Craft Kit" that might fill in the gap at the lower and smaller side

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Tags: technic
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title: What are LEGO rubber bands made of?

text:
# Question
Title: What are LEGO rubber bands made of?
I have noticed that LEGO rubber bands (along with just about everything else LEGO) are fantastically durable. They last ages without getting crusty and dying like most commonly available rubber bands. They can even be held in stretched positions for extended lengths of time without showing any signs of wear, or even any noticeable hysteresis.

So anyhow, what are they made of to make them so superior to common rubber bands?

Clarifications:

* By "standard"/"common" rubber bands I mean those which are commonly available to purchase at the store, like these.
* I am talking about the newer "round cross section" type, not the old "square cross section" type which are more similar to standard rubber bands. Part #'s x1106, x90, x89, x37, and x71.

# Answer
> 8 votes
### They are made of SBS rubber.

According to user "B. Lister" on eurobricks.com, these bands are silicon rubber, used in medical and dental work for long lasting connections and tension.

Source

However, a LEGO representative at a toy safety site indicated otherwise:

> The colors and materials in ABS plastic do not rub off or leach and, in fact, meet the same material standards for safety that are required of plastic eating utensils. Tires and elastic materials found in some LEGO sets are manufactured from Styrene-Butadiene Styrene (SBS), a material commonly found in vehicle mud guards and shoe soles.

Source

SBS has some very similar traits to silicon rubber, including sterilization and long lasting properties. I noticed in the other answer that bike tire cuttings worked almost identically. They should! Those inner tubes also consist of a Butyl base.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I cannot be certain about this, but I think it could be one of these two material options, (1) Urethane: i.e. it's not rubber at all, and it is moulded, and not extruded. That's probably also why they have colour options. (2) Butyl rubber: this is the rubber used in tyre tubes. I've used cut sections from inner bicycle tubes, and they stretch and seem to last forever. I'd be mildly surprised if I saw them in round section, or in colour, though.

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Tags: piece-information, rubber-bands
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title: Does LEGO ship to my country?

text:
# Question
Title: Does LEGO ship to my country?
Today I wanted to order some LEGO sets from official LEGO Shop to get the exclusive LEGO fountain. But when I went to checkout, my country wasn't available in the shipping list. I live in Slovakia. When I read the "Shipping & Handling", it wasn't stated that they don't deliver to my country. I'm very confused. What should I do?

# Answer
I don't believe that LEGO currently ships to Slovakia via shop.LEGO.com. You can see the list of available countries in the "Regions" drop down in the top right on shop.LEGO.com:

I'm sure you are aware that there are plenty of other places to order LEGO that would ship to your country, but that doesn't help you if you're mostly interested in getting the current fountain promo as a freebie with some other things you are ordering.
> 3 votes

# Answer
If you know any third party shipping companies or have a trustworthy friend out of country, have TLC ship to them, and then said friend/company will send it to you through the regular mail. It will take a while, but it insures you get all of what you want.
> 1 votes

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Tags: shopping
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title: LEGO variant, or is it?

text:
# Question
Title: LEGO variant, or is it?
I'm in the early stages of sorting through a mothballed childhood collection of over 20,000 pieces mainly dating from about 1980 to 1992, some of which I will keep for my little boy to play within the coming years with a proportion to be sold on to raise funds.

In among it all is a quantity of these which I suspect are not genuine LEGO, but perhaps someone here knows precisely what it is? A lengthy Internet search has so far proved fruitless so I'm hoping for identification here.

Firstly it is perfectly LEGO compatible, the same dimensions. There are no tubes underneath and they have studs that resemble those of Technic beams. Baseplates have a crisscross pattern underneath and window elements with a couple of lugs to aid location.

The plastic seems slightly thinner than the real thing, less flexible, more brittle, with a tinny sound when chucked into a pile. Corners are rather round and the side walls aren't as flat as modern Lego bricks. There are numbers molded into the undersides of the bricks, possibly factory codes.

I've got a bag of several hundred pieces and would part with them if there turned out to be someone collecting them. I've assumed they are probably not made by LEGO unless very early examples but research so far suggests that isn't the case.

# Answer
> 2 votes
At first glance, many of those pieces look very similar to pieces from the 1950s/1960s, and in the 1950s there are some lego sets that use a different type of plastic than ABS (cellulose acetate), along with certain other features I see here, but looking closer at the details and what pieces are "known" in brick databases, there are several details that just don't look quite "right" to be real legos, and I think you're correct in your assessment that these are much more likely be some sort of knock-off brand of unknown vintage.

Toys Period is one of several sites with a database of lego parts and what sets they are in. In their list of lego windows https://www.toysperiod.com/lego-set-reference/parts/windows-and-doors/windows/ I do not see any windows with dimensions 1x6x3 with two panes (with or without glass). There are windows of the same width that are 1x6x2 with one center 2x2 pane and two side 1x2 panes, and 1x6x3 windows with a single pane (both of which I've seen in actual sets as they are fairly common), but not 1.5 stud panes on a 6x3 window. But even looking at the 1x6x3 window that is a single pane, the details still seem wrong. The bottom of the window only has nubs to connect the window every other stud instead of every stud. Every picture I could find of genuine old legos of that vintage either have nubs between every stud, or was completely without nubs on the bottom. And the pattern carved above and below the space for the window "glass" doesn't appear to have the correct groove pattern.

Next, the large green plate. the tops of those studs are hollow (actually, the tops are hollow on all the pieces shown), which is sometimes used in legos, especially modern legos so that they can hold small parts like flames, but usually not on large plates, and having every piece in the set have those kinds of studs would seem incredibly surprising... And although I have seen old lego plates with square holes on the bottom, from the period before they switched to round pegs between studs, the genuine ones I've seen have a single thicker "bar" of plastic between each stud not two parallel strips of plastic between each stud.

And that roof tile that is 3x4x1 is an unusual dimension for a lego roof tile. I'm a bit suspicious that combination, especially with hollow stud tops, will not show up in lego parts databases either. Having a 30 degree slant 3x4x1 with only one row of studs on top would be common, or having a 45 degree slant 2x4x1 would be common...but not two rows of studs on top with a 45 degree slant.

Most of the other pieces in your photos are too blurry to really identify at great detail, but already there just seem to be be too many things "off" about these including other details you mention (aside from the numbers molded into the underside, which is a feature also present in genuine legos of older vintages)

# Answer
> 2 votes
It's hard to be sure from a picture, and I know people who know a lot more about old parts than I do.

I have seen LEGO plates with the structure of squares underneath, I believe they had a single wide wall between the holes though.

If they are LEGO they are older than 1980, is there any chance you got some old stuff that some of your relatives had lying around?

2x4 bricks without bottom tubes have been made, but those that I remember having seen, didn't have recessed studs, and the studs were "hollow" seen from below (see http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=bhol04#T=C).

The windows look slightly different from what I've seen from LEGO.

The slopes in your pictures don't match anything I've ever seen or heard of.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I have a bunch of pre-1980 bricks, and those windows at least appear to be real LEGO bricks.

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: Conductive "App Brick" without human contact
This may not be entirely LEGO-related, but more related to touch screen technology.

I'd like the LEGO app brick (http://brickset.com/sets/containing-part-6103777) to register a touch on a touch screen even if I'm not touching the brick. I'd like to put a LEGO construction with such bricks at the bottom on the screen, and register a touch event.

Is that at all possible?

# Answer
If you are planing on physically touching the brick that will then touch the screen then you could use a trick similar to that used by capacitive gloves

There just needs to be a conductive medium between your finger and the screen so you could add a thin strip of copper tape or anything metallic to bridge the gap between your finger and the touch screen that is created by the insulation of the plastic brick.
> 2 votes

# Answer
Now, I'm having a little bit of a hard time understanding what you mean, but then again it is a harder problem, so bear with me here.

What I'm getting here, and tell me in the comments if I'm wrong, is that you want your phone to "hear" that you touched the brick, without having actually interacting with the brick at all.

Rather, you want to modify the program so that you can touch a GUI button and the program will "hear" the touch event as broadcast by your phone, rather than by the brick.

This will be entirely program-based, and will not require any "hacking" of your brick. But it does mean that you will be required to make a new version of the program to include this function, the false touch, and that really depends on how good you are at programming ios, or whatever language your touchscreen device is based on.

I know this isn't completely as helpful as you might desire, but this might not be the best place to ask about programming, and programming is what it will come down to. We do have an SE site for that!
> 0 votes

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Tags: software, electronics
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# Question
Title: How best to plan and design a custom LEGO creation?
I'm curious how best to proceed with my own creations. I have several ideas that I want to take a stab at implementing but know I probably don't have the all bricks I need. I am not new to LEGO, but I am definitely new to building high quality custom creations and am a little unsure where to start.

# Answer
This is going to be different for everyone, but there are several different options.

I personally prefer to get my LEGO bricks out and just start building, this usually doesn't turn out exactly how I want initially, but I will take the bits I like and try again; building multiple versions to find what I like and come up with a finished item. For larger builds, I will break it down into specific areas or elements to focus on and then work to integrate the sections when I am happy with each.

A very useful set of tools are the various computer Lego CAD systems, I prefer LDraw, the official Lego tool is the Lego Digital Designer, and there are others.

I have used these to start from scratch to generate a finished design, to generate a rough idea before moving onto the bricks, or to organize existing elements together into a larger build.

Depending on your experience they can be very useful tools not just for planning, but to generate build directions, parts lists, or high quality renders of you creation. They will come with a large number of Lego pieces and colors allowing you to experiment beyond the Lego you have. They are a little cumbersome for certain advanced SNOT techniques but can generally do most things Lego would.
> 4 votes

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Tags: building
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title: Which Star Wars set is this?

text:
# Question
Title: Which Star Wars set is this?
It is from the Star Wars theme but which one?

# Answer
> 8 votes
Based on the silver jetpack, Jango Fett head, Phase I clone helmet, and orange battle droid parts, I believe it is 75015 Corporate Alliance Tank Droid.

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Tags: set-identification, star-wars
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title: Working with Curved Bricks

text:
# Question
Title: Working with Curved Bricks
I'm hoping to stack curved bricks. There are two slots along the edge to allow the bricks to be set on plates. These become unsightly when the bricks are stacked atop each other. Has anyone seen any techniques to fill these gaps while maintaining the general curve shape?

# Answer
> 4 votes
One possible "technique" could simply be to use the round wall panels of the same diameter:

This part has the same stud recesses at the bottom, but since it's much taller, they won't appear as frequently in your model (or at all if this part alone provides the height that you need).

This obviously has a number of disadvantages, the largest being that you're stuck with less flexibility over the color as you can't use stripes of different colors.

You might also be interested in this answer that provides other ideas for building curved walls.

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Tags: building, compatibility
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# Question
Title: How do you program mindstorms to keep doing a task until either the IR OR the colour sensor state changes
How do you program mindstorms to keep doing a task until either the IR OR the colour sensor state changes. I would like to use the wait block but it can only be either the colour sensor or the IF sensor. i want to continue the activity until either sensor changes to a specified condition.

# Answer
> 6 votes
One way of doing this is using a loop and interrupting it.

How it works:

The "Loop Interrupt" block stops all blocks running inside of the loop, so by interrupting the loop after either wait block, it will stop the other wait block. The type of loop doesn't actually matter because we never reach that point. I chose to wait for "Logic" with a value of "False" just so that it is more clear that we are not actually looping here.

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Tags: ev3, programming, sensor-colour, sensor-ultrasonic
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# Question
Title: How to sell massive, vintage and unsorted lego collection with manuals?
So I was a big LEGO collector as a child in the early 1990s. The genres I have are town/city, pirates, and castle. To store them, I broke them all down to fit into 2 giant plastic tubs. I still have virtually all of the instruction booklets/foldouts that came with the LEGOS, and a few of the boxes as well. Some big sets, particularly the pirate ships and castles.

My question is how to go about selling them. Should I sort them? I've tried to pull the figures/accessories out, but otherwise it's overwhelming! I was pretty careful as a kid and didn't lose much, but it's hard to say how complete everything is just by looking (90-95% I guess).

I was thinking of listing the sets and their manuals in there and taking photos as best as possible (especially of the figs). Any suggestion where to sell them online?

Apologies for the long post.

# Answer
Depending on what you have, your best bet is probably to re-build each set, and sell them as complete. Try BrickLink if you're not in a hurry to sell. You can see how much sets are selling for, and price yours accordingly. You can list them until they sell, and they only charge a small percentage when the items sell. If you want fast cash, sell them on eBay.

These two sites will get you the most bang for your bricks.
> 8 votes

# Answer
Zapper buy unsorted Lego. As of today (July 2016) they pay £3.50 per kilo. Can be sold in 0.5kg increments but you need £10 minimum worth of trade before you can send it off but this can be made up of books, DVDs etc. all in the same package.
> 1 votes

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Tags: shopping, instructions, organisation, trading
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# Question
Title: Is it possible to damage a pneumatic pump/motor by applying too much pressure?
I've recently bought the Mercedes-Benz Arocs model, which contains a compressor (i.e., a pneumatic pump which is operated by an L motor).

I was wondering whether you can ruin your pneumatic system and/or the motor by simply "overpumping" and thereby creating too much pressure? It doesn't look like there is some kind of "overpressure valve"...

If I just run the motor in pneumatic-pump mode and let it pump for a few minutes...

* ...is there a chance to ruin the pneumatic hoses or even the cylinders?
* ...is there a chance to ruin the motor?

If not, why not?

# Answer
> 5 votes
**No**, it would be practically impossible to damage LEGO pneumatic elements by overpressurizing them.

---

It turns out that LEGO pneumatic pumps actually have a very simple "slip" mechanism that prevents overpressurization. Once the pressure reaches about 35-40psi (the exact threshold varies slightly pump by pump) the rubber plunger disk will give way and bend back, allowing a small amount of air to slip by and escape out the top of the pump.

Here is a GIF illustrating the effect, watch the rubber plunger disk bend back as I pump it:

*Sorry the quality is so bad, it's hard getting under SE's 2MB limit. The number markings on the pressure gauge are multiples of 10, so it is slipping at around 37psi.*

If you don't have a transparent pump or a pressure gauge it is still quite easy to tell that this is happening since the air escaping makes a fairly obvious *pfft* sound.

---

Some have also correctly pointed out that the tubes will pop off long before any damage is done to the components. While I have experienced this, the pump will usually hit its max pressure before any pipes pop off if they are attached securely (i.e. pushed as far as possible onto their connections).

Some pipes also tend to come off easier than others, in my experience the older ones along with the clear types tend to make looser connections. This is why I try to use the newer opaque tubes first since it can be a pain in the neck fixing and repressurizing when a connection blows off.

# Answer
> 3 votes
You wrote you would like to hear an answer that is more definitive as a guess. I guess then we can accept Sariel as a definitive source, and he writes here:

> There is no risk of anything blowing up. If you’re using Lego pumps, they will simply lack the power to keep pumping once a critical air pressure is reached. There is a risk, however, that your Lego pneumatic hoses may pop off the inlets.

This is exactly what I have personally experienced, so I would be quite confident in this being the truth.

Also, it would be a pretty bad idea from TLG to release an official set that can damage itself during normal operation, so even based on this alone I would say there is no risk of overpressure.

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Tags: technic, motor, pneumatic
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# Question
Title: Identify brick with internal battery, light and sound
I just bought a bulk lot of second-hand bricks and found this odd one inside. It has a black panel on one side and when pressed it plays a screeching sound. Through the transparent purple top I can see two LEDs and a circuit board.

I'm guessing the battery is so low it can't make them glow and the chop isn't getting enough power to play the real sound. It has the LEGO brand on the bottom so I'm pretty sure it is genuine, but I can't identify the piece or the set it could have come from.

Once I identify the brick I'll try to find out if it can be opened without breaking it, so I can replace the battery.

# Answer
This is part # bb0042 : Electric, Light & Sound Siren 4 x 2 x 4 Jack Stone

and here you can hear the sound

it is from Set 4621-1: Red Flash Station

don't know if the battery is replaceable
> 4 votes

# Answer
If anyone is interesting in whether the battery can be replaced, the answer's yes-ish.

As you can see in the picture, it's powered by a CR2032. The only hurdle here is that it's welded to the contacts. Not insurmountable though. Also it was glued (or ultrasonically welded) shut, I had to put the orange part in a vise (with some cardboard to protect the plastic) and carefully yet forcefully pull it from side to side. I was surprised at how much force I had to use, so be warned.

**EDIT: the fix and putting it back together**

Because the top battery contact was spot-welded on, I had to pry the end a bit upward with a knife so I could grab it with pliers and sorta roll/pull the contact off, as you can see below.

The battery's also glued to the circuit board, just gently pull it off making sure you don't pull the bottom contact off as well:

I don't have a picture of the next part, but it's pretty straightforward. I straightened the top battery contact so that the new battery would fit in between. Then I carefully put the circuit board back in the case, and pushed the new battery in between the two contacts (mind the polarity). It should be a very tight fit. At least in my case it was, and it was impossible for the battery to move. After that I put some really good glue (something like Pattex Extreme Repair, not a fan of superglue for this application) on the orange top of the case and closed the case.

I used a clamp to keep it that way for the next 24 hours:
> 5 votes

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Tags: part-identification, electronics
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title: Tools to unbuild a model more easily?

text:
# Question
Title: Tools to unbuild a model more easily?
Are there any good tools out there to help unbuilding a model, for example removing axles from beams?

Something like the famous brick separator, but for Technic models.

# Answer
> 4 votes
Actually, the brick separator is a very versatile tool for disassembling Technic. The end of the wedge can be slipped into the slot on the side of several pieces to help pop Technic pins out from behind (I also use it like a screwdriver for aligning Technic pins while building). It can also be used to separate stubborn beam connections.

I've also got a 1:6 axle attached to the little axle pusher using an extender (sorry...I don't know the actual names of these things and I don't have time to look them up right now). It works great for pushing axles through deeper sockets, or for popping pins out from behind.

Other than that, I've never really had much trouble pulling Technic parts apart. I'm sure there are other uses I've yet to need, but that little orange tool has been a godsend for my sanity and fingertips. :)

# Answer
> 2 votes
I would recommend the 1:3 light grey cross-axle for popping other axles. It's more versatile than the 1:2 red cross-axle because it doesn't get stuck in the same spot you pushed whatever piece out of. It's also small enough that it's unlikely to bend or break under pressure, which is a necessity for this usage. (I'm not the only one who's bent a big axle on accident, right?)

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Tags: technic, tools, disassembly
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# Question
Title: Strange 2x2 Inverted slope with hollow center Identification
I have a brick that is similar to a 45 degree inverted slope 2x2 except where the un-sloped flat face should be there is a rectangular cavity into the brick

```
   _______
  /   ____|
 /   |
/     ----|
--HH---HH-

```

that is a rough cross-section of what it looks like where the H's represent the studs on the bottom

# Answer
Could be one of the bricks used at section 7 and 9 of this Tyco Super Blocks set:

Source: http://bricker.ru/instructions/download/Tyco%20Super%20Blocks/5281-2.pdf
> 2 votes

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands, slope
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# Question
Title: How to build bridge using 4.5/12v train rails from 1969 Lego brochure
I am interested in building a bridge for my layout and stumbled upon this forum post in which user 'Istokg' posted a picture of a train bridge made from the blue rails used in the pre-1980s train sets.

This is from a 1969 Lego publication which has been scanned and uploaded to brickfetish.com and can be found here.

Obviously this could be built with either the blue rails as shown or even the newer grey rails. My question is: can anyone provide insight, (or even better, building instructions), on how it is constructed. Even the larger picture in the scan is still too small to see exactly how the rails are fixed to the main structure.

**--------- Edit ---------**

I finally have all of my Lego spares in one place and have had time to try a prototype build of the bridge using @62Bricks' LDraw file, but I have hit upon a problem:

The angles of the vertical rails where they connect to the plates at the top are such that it is not possible to attach the curved outside rails. This is best illustrated by the picture below:

As you can see, there is no way to attach the upper rail as the vertical rails attached to the studs on the lower row of the plates almost touch the studs on the upper row.

I thought at first this was due to my using 'Gray-era' rails rather than the 'Blue-era' rails used in the 1969 bridge and in @62Bricks' LDraw file but as far as I can see there is no difference between the two that would affect the outcome here. (I don't have any blue rails to test though).

Further supporting evidence is that at high magnification in LDraw, the stud on the plate can be seen protruding through the end of the rail, which is impossible in practice.

I do happen to have a straight rail where the end cap is broken off, I tried this with the approximate angle of the curved rail and was able to achieve something that looked about right:

I don't want to have to break the ends off my rails to *make* them fit and also the grip of the broken rail on the stud was much reduced, so I doubt a bridge made with this method would hold up well with the vibration of trains rumbling across it.

I am, therefore, stuck. I have my prototype bridge part built but I can go no further. I would love to hear any suggestions on how to proceed as well as any theories as to how Lego made the bridge in the picture work.

**--------- Edit 2 ---------**

After much experimenting with jumper plates and studying of the original picture, the solution was actually quite simple. (And identical to that suggested by @jcranton in the comments of the accepted answer):

By adding 1x1 plates under the connections to the vertical rails, the collision is avoided. (@jcranton's suggestion to use round plates I think is better than the square plates I have used).

The method above also means there is no need for double stacking the plates as shown in the LDraw from @62Bricks.

So my prototype is taking shape:

I have made a few other modifications, most notably dropping the level of the deck to accommodate the height of the trains I intend to run on it. I have also added reinforcement plates to the back of the sides to add rigidity as I intend to make the bridge wide enough for two tracks.

# Answer
> 26 votes
Here is an approximation of the bridge that appears on the cover of the catalog pictured above. Unlike the version in the picture, this model uses bracket pieces to attach the arched section to the rail bed. All the pieces in this build were available prior to 1994.

The arches are decorative and do not really contribute to the strength of the bridge. This is completely computer-generated and may not be very sturdy in real life. It would not be difficult to adapt the rail bed to give it more strength, however.

I put together an LDraw file with steps for building this bridge. The file can be downloaded from my MOCpage.

# Answer
> 9 votes
I just built the bridge yesterday. I didn't have all the parts so had to be creative at some points. I'll improve some joints once I picked up more of my Lego at my dads' place.

Very funny project!

Pictures:

# Answer
> 6 votes
Thanks for your help with this construction. I have made a faithful copy of this 1968 catalog bridge, pics:-

Also a list of components.

Hope that's helpful. I have a 12 image photo diary of the build too. If you would like it message me through Flickr.

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Tags: trains, instructions, vintage, bridge
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# Question
Title: How to disassemble this Technic combination?
How should I disassemble the axle (7) attached in this model?

(I tried using a brick separator but failed to remove it.)

# Answer
Simply use the longest technic shaft you have, and use it to push the #7 shaft out just enough to where you can finish pulling it out with your fingers. Then pull out the long shaft.
> 4 votes

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Tags: technic, disassembly
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# Question
Title: How can an EV3 motor "remember" it's starting position?
I am currently working on a project that uses large motors. I want the project to return to a "starting position" (0,0,0) at the touch of a button so that it can be used multiple (identical) times. How can I do this with the regular Mindstorms EV3 software (I am using the education version)?

# Answer
> 6 votes
The simplest way to "remember" a starting position is to make the starting position `0`. You can do this using Rest in the Motor Rotation block (1). After your motors have moved (simulated by (2)), you can use a loop (3) to run the motors back to zero.

The basic idea though is that if the motor position is negative, then we need to run the motor in the positive direction and vice versa. This way we run back towards a position of `0`. Once we reach a motor position of `0`, we exit from the loop and stop the motor (5).

This is meant to be an example to point you in the right direction and can be improved. For example, you could use a proportional controller at (4) to slow the motor as it nears the `0` position. The sample code as it is below will oscillate several times before it gets exactly to `0`, which is not very nice.

Additionally, you will need to add code that waits for a button press before starting the loop and you will need additional loops for each motor.

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Tags: ev3, motor, software
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# Question
Title: How to speed up assembly for big LEGO technic sets (e.g. 42043 Mercedes-Benz Arocs)
Is there any ways to help speed up the assembly process when building big LEGO Technic set such as the 42043 Mercedes-Benz Arocs?

# Answer
> 10 votes
* Despite what it superficially looks like in (for example) Sariel's build videos, having a big pile of parts spread across the table is not the fastest way. Pour the contents of the smaller bags into containers (I use old plastic take-away containers). That way you are looking through a container of blue 3 long pins and red 2-long axles for a 2-long axle, rather than rummaging through a mound of everything. I tend to pour the black 2-long connector pins onto the build space because there are so many and that way they're close to the build, but everything else goes in a container.
* A little time sorting will help a lot. Sort things like beams and large parts, but also axles if there's a lot of them. Having a row of beams sorted by size and getting a 9 long one is much faster and easier than rummaging and comparing randomly grabbed beams for length.
* I find pulling out really large parts early makes things easier. Wheels/tyres, power functions, large panels etc. A stack of 5x11 panels is easier to deal with than when they're randomly in a container hiding little parts underneath them.
* I find piling the parts to be used in a step up, then installing them avoids missing any. If you need to add 3 axles, but you have one left over at the "end" of that step... you missed one. This is less necessary with modern kits because you put so few parts in per step, but still occasionally helps. If you look at instructions for pre-2000 sets there's often 10 or more parts installed per step, which made this technique much more useful/necessary.
* skim the online forums for build errata and common mistakes. For example, there were quite a number of people asking "the back wheels on my crawler turn one way, the ones on the front turn the other way" because they had mis-assembled one of the differentials. There's also a mistake possible in the core of the more recent wheeled loader, but the detail escapes me.
* test mechanisms early and often. Spin every axle, make sure that it does spin and whatever the gears on it seem likely to mesh with, do.
* read ahead. If you have an idea of what you're building you can often do things like making two mirrored sub-assemblies at the same time. But be careful, as you can easily end up building the wrong thing.
* I build on a towel, rather than straight on the table. That way if I drop a pin or something small it doesn't bounce as much. Specifically, it doesn't end up on the floor under my desk.
* have enough space. The days when you could build a set "in the box" just by opening the lid (or these days, cutting round the top) are gone. A towel is not a bad estimate of the space required for building something like the Arocs.

(the build videos are usually made by experienced builders who have excellent spatial memory, and they get things out without disturbing it, so parts stay more or less separated by bag despite being "in a pile". If you look for this it's often obvious. Especially If you're building with kids you'll generally have to struggle not to rummage until the pile is completely randomised)

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Tags: building, technic, organisation
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# Question
Title: Can an axle be removed from this Technic 'brick paradox'?
This blogpost on Technic Bricks briefly explains a few 'brick paradoxes' or dead ends. This particular model seems impossible to disassemble by hand:

How can I remove the axle without damaging/destroying the bricks?

# Answer
> 24 votes
I reproduced the problem and got the axle out using a sculpting tool (similar to an awl). It's a sharp point made of hard metal. (Soft metal will actually bend, believe me, I tried three tools.)

I inserted the point in the space left by the axle groove and pried the axle out. The point of the tool was against the axle while the body of the tool was pushing against the beam's rim. I made a short video to explain.

After looking at the pieces, I saw that it did however leave some damages to both pieces. On the axle it is barely noticeable, While the rim of of the beam has some little notches. Because of these small damages, it's not something I would do on a regular basis. On the other hand, both pieces are totally usable after the 'operation'.

# Answer
> 6 votes
A pair of needle nose pliers might just do the trick, or some sturdy tweezers - however it might leave some scratches on the axle (thus limiting the no-damaging).

I assume there's another 2 axle in the other side stopping the use of a wooden toothpick or similar pushing it through from the other end? The joiner has an inner lip, but is hollow if I recall correctly?

# Answer
> 6 votes
One option that may minimize damage to the axle would be to find a mini chuck (left) or micro chuck (right) (i.e. a very small chuck, like a pin chuck) with 4 collet prongs that stick out far enough from the nose cap and are small enough to insert between the rim of the hole and the axle:

Then you could tighten it down so the 4 prongs grip the cross shape of the axle tightly enough to pull it out. The match between the 4 prongs of the chuck and the cross shape of the axle will hopefully distribute the gripping pressure in a way that keeps the axle piece from being damaged.

# Answer
> 6 votes
I once got myself into a situation much like this.

What I did was unfold a paperclip and insert the end of it into one of the four corners of open space of the hole that one of the axles was in. Then, I pulled the part of the paper clip out in such a way as to make the most friction between the paper clip and the axle, causing the axle to slide out a bit. I kept repeating this process until the axle slid far out enough for me to get a grip on it and pluck it out.

The tricky part was not pushing the axle back in when I was pushing the part of the paper clip in for another pull. I had to cause as little friction as possible when pushing the unfolded paperclip in, and cause as much friction as possible when pulling it back out so that the axle would come out with it.

This technique may be longer and more tedious than the others, but it uses an item that's almost certain to be lying around your house, and in the end it got the pieces apart without damaging them in the slightest.

# Answer
> 4 votes
This answer will only work if there's enough of the notch in the size 2 axle available.

Use a piece of strong string (like dental floss), and tie a small slipknot in one end.

Using some other tool, such as a bent paperclip, push the lasso into the brick's hole down to the notch.

Using that tool, keep pressure on the knot area while you pull the slipknot tight. You don't want your pull to pull the string out.

If you successfully lasso the axle, you then be able to give it a straight tug out.

This should cause no damage to any parts.

# Answer
> 2 votes
I have a small pair of bent-nose needle-nose pliers in with my Lego and use them quite often, generally without damaging anything.

That picture is a 150mm set, mine are a "miniature" 80mm set designed for electronics work. One key feature is that the ends of the jaws have little teeth, so they get positive grip on really tiny things. Of course, if you squeeze too hard you will mark plastic Lego pieces, but the bent nose helps as the jaws flex a little. I found bent nose works better than straight nose as I also use them to rescue small parts from inside big models. For that a long-handle set of pliers is also helpful, but those normally live in my electronics tool kits.

For the above puzzle, note that you should grab one side of the + axle, not the diagonal - the latter means all your force is going onto the edges of the plier tips and you *will* mark/damage the Lego.

(Echoing Zhaph - Ben Duguid above, but I actually do this rather than theorising about it, plus I wanted to include an image)

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Tags: technic, tools, disassembly
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# Question
Title: Known quality control issue with 10234 Sydney Opera House?
I have just completed 10234 Sydney Opera House, with one white half-shell (Bricklink: 41749 White Wedge 8x3x2 Open Right) missing.

Both the Bricklink inventory and the Lego instructions show 34 of 41749 and 35 of 41750, so this looks unusual.

Have I misplaced an element, or is this a known quality control issue with this set?

# Answer
You seem to imply you built some of the structures symmetrically; however, by looking at the building instructions, I notice they are not: the subpart starting at page 37 of book 3 uses 7 wedges in total, while the opposite one on page 48 uses only 6.

While missing parts do happen (and are usually solved very diligently by the customer service, as said in other questions on the subject), it's always worth double-checking if the instructions were followed correctly, especially in such a huge model.
> 5 votes

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Tags: sets, architecture
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# Question
Title: How do you plan large structures for easy and safe transport to shows?
Imagine I am building a large display that will cover many square feet and have both tall buildings and lots of small details. What are some techniques for making these things modular? Is it safer to disassemble partially or plan to carry displays whole? What do the builders and clubs at shows do to transport large layouts?

# Answer
> 19 votes
## Compartmentalise

I wouldn't recommend transporting anything larger than a 32x32 stud baseplate. Use Technic pins and 1x2 bricks to connect parts of your model in the same way as the Modular Sets have done. The technique works well for buildings, planes, boats and just about any kind of large model.

## Transport

Remove as many small parts likely to fall off in transportation as you possibly can and place them in a sealed plastic bag or other suitable container. Place the rest of the model with the extra parts in a cardboard/plastic box. The box is essential for catching any other fragile pieces that fall off the model. You may also use bubble wrap or tissue paper to pad the box as much as you can.

Once your Lego model has completed it's journey allow yourself some time to fix inevitable damage.

## Collapsible Structures

This is a fairly novel idea, which I haven't seen done before. Flickr user Legozilla has built a model that is specifically designed with transport in mind.

This particular design is unlikely to be damaged in transport. The flatpacked version of this model is significanly more space spacing compared to its 'built state' where it's volume is probably 90% air.

> Occasionally, we need to fill in a spot in a display because a member needs to be late to a show or some other circumstance. To meet that need, I have a couple of buildings that I tote around to fill such a gap. This set of buildings is modular, and collapsible so that it's easy to transport and flexible enough to fit in most corners of a layout. It's also fun to fold and unfold just to watch people's reaction.

# Answer
> 4 votes
Note that you will probably need to de-greeble your models first. Small parts that fall off are annoying, and there's few things worse than finding a sea of small parts in the bottom of your shipping box. A collection of photos designed to help with reassembly is likely to be helpful, and will be essential if you want to accept offers of help with the reassembly.

I tend to ship the more fragile sub-assemblies in dedicated shipping boxes with a foam cut-out shaped to hold them. Rather than plastic wrap I use plastic bags. The bag is just there to keep foam and Lego separated (finding a 1x1 tile among 6-8 pieces of foam is annoying). Try to keep your boxes all the same size and shape, or multiples theerof, so they're easier to pack. The way Lego does :)

A useful variation on Ambo100's folding building that I've seen once, was an invertable building. The extremely detailed front wall was removable, and the inside built so that it could be flipped round to have all the detailed bits on the inside. That way most of the "outside" when shipping was reasonably solid, planar surfaces.

I build Technic, so my constraints are different, but the other technique I expect to use shortly is custom plywood boxes and platforms. For a metre-square model I will build a platform to hold it, then make walls and a lid that can be attached either above or below the model. One way up it's boxed for transport, the other way it's got its own table for display. With a little care I hope to make the base exactly 6 bricks high, so if it needs to go on a table with other models it will be relatively easy to get the height right.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Modularize, modularize, modularize! If you are putting models in a train show or similar, think about building large models so that they can conveniently be broken down into modules of no larger than 32x32 studs.

# Answer
> 2 votes
You can use "Saran" wrap to gently wrap some models. It keeps the parts from falling to the wayside, but doesn't neccesarily keep the models intact during transit. Even if you box it up as well, there is always a good chance you'll need to touch up any thing you build then move.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I generally agree with the compartmentalization and disassembly for transport and the need for sealed transport containers already put forth. Some additional ideas that I find helpful:

I like to have a solid base for my creations and if I'm unsure of the tables available at the display site, I like to have a precut plywood piece to go under my build to allow some greater control.

Take photos and bring them with you to assist in reassembly. Or more over the top you can have your entire creation modeled in LDraw or similar software and bring a laptop with you. Pictures can really help to check and make sure everything survived the move intact and has been reassembled correctly, especially if you have assistants who might not be as familiar with the build as you, or if you find a loose pieces and are trying to figure out where they go.

If there are specific pieces that you know are problematic, bring some extra pieces in a separate container for that last minute fix.

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Tags: building, transport
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# Question
Title: Can using a hex key to disassemble LEGO Technic pieces cause damage?
Does using the right size hex key (Allen key) to speed up the disassembly process cause damage to the LEGO Technic pieces?

# Answer
### Yes

A hex key, being tough metal, is inherently a danger to ABS plastic. Using it to push axles and pop connections will eventually scratch and wear down your parts, something you don't want with technic pieces.
> 5 votes

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Tags: technic, disassembly, tools
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# Question
Title: Which parts are these? Large yellow and orange pieces with Technic pin holes
In an effort to identify sets in a second hand random LEGO collection we bought, we found some really obscure parts. Do you know which parts these are? Thanks!

# Answer
The two parts on the right are Cockpit 6 x 6 x 5 with Hinge (30619). These have been used to make cockpits in LEGO Juniors and other very simple, low-part-count sets such as 4652:

The part on the left is Engine Block 4 x 6 x 2 with Wedge Cutouts and Technic Holes (45407). It is used to make up the front section of the tow truck shown above and has been used in similar ways in a few more sets in different colors.
> 4 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: How can I control nxt 2.0 robot with a Wiimote in labview?
I am building a robot with Labview for LEGO Mindstorms and I have wanted to hook up the robot to move based on a Wiimote or Wii remote. However, I have not found a file to download to enable me to do so. Does anyone have any *free* files that they have found that come with instructions? If this is any help I am *only* using lego education sets and my NXT version is a 2.0.

# Answer
The Wiimote uses 2 forms of communication: Bluetooth 4, and IR for the pointing controls. You'd probably be using bluetooth.

The main problem with the NXT bluetooth is that the NXT is a slave device, not a master device, while the wiimote itself is a slave device as well. For advanced reading on the interfacing methods, the wiibrew community has set up a great page over here: http://wiibrew.org/wiki/Wiimote

The next concern is that you *may* have to modify your wiimote a tiny bit for bluetooth data transmission. right now, most of the homebrewers are hard-shorting wires to trigger events.

As far as files for the NXT, I'm afraid that you will likely find little to no files, as the problems stated above are somewhat above what most NXT users are trying to do.

Best of luck on your project!
> 3 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, nxt, remote-control, labview
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# Question
Title: What electrical contact material is used for PF Connectors?
I'm designing my own PF electrical connector and I want to have the same functional characteristics as the original Lego brick.

Could you please let me know which electrical contact material is used in the original brick?

# Answer
> 2 votes
The material is most likely aluminum or tinned copper, here is why:

Most LEGOs are made in Denmark, the country of origin, with other various quantities made in mexico, Taiwan, and other factories around the world. Denmark is a huge exporter of electrical generators (see wikipedia). Making generators requires a good amount of aluminum and copper to make, especially if the generator has a build in power transmission. I would be willing to bet that the same materials that are available to make generators would also be available to make LEGOs, copper and aluminum. I'm leaning towards tinned copper because of the luster in the pictures, but I couldn't tell you for sure, and LEGO doesn't provide a datasheet.

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Tags: power-functions, manufacturing, customization
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# Question
Title: How does one get a job as a LEGO designer?
I always fantasized on the mysterious (and admittedly cool) job of LEGO designer. Is there anyone who knows what it takes?

* Do you need to go to the Lego university and get good grades?
* Is there any Job post in some secret place?
* Do you get a job by being on the LEGO fan club for long enough?
* Or do you need to participate in competition and get recognition for your own designs?

# Answer
> 22 votes
There's a nice interview with LEGO Designer Mark Stafford on The Brothers Brick:

> From LEGO fan to LEGO set designer - the Mark Stafford interview

The basic process was:

The position was advertised, and Mark's portfolio was sent in. He was then invited to a two day recruitment workshop along with a number of other candidates.

I've also read other interviews such as this one from The LEGOLAND Discovery Center asking about how Alex Bidolak became a LEGO Master Model Builder, and he came in through the competition route.

# Answer
> 10 votes
Pierre Normandin followed the path of "well-known AFOL doing tremendous sets" to "AFOL invited by LEGO to participate in secret projects from time to time" to "Actual LEGO designer" (I'd like to say "demigod", but he tends to frown at me when I do that). He was also one of the first groups of LEGO Ambassadors.

But in any case, the most important criteria is, you have to be a tremendous builder. The next step is to make LEGO know about you one way or the other, but if you are a tremendous builder, chances are they will. Then, you have to inquire about job openings and of course, apply. In that respect, I think his path is similar to Mark Stafford's.

LEGOland parks sometimes fill they openings through competitions, but I don't think Billund does that.

Edit: by the way, the job postings aren't in any kind of secret place, but quite easy to find on the LEGO web site (I think they're in category "Product Design/ Development"). Of course if they happen to search for candidates for other jobs in your own area of expertise, maybe being already in house is a good path to reach the designers team, too.

# Answer
> 2 votes
I participated in the Master Builder competition. Winners were potentially offered jobs as Builders and Master Builders. The position was advertised on the LEGO job boards and the competition in question was held in LEGOLAND California.

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Tags: design, lego-group
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# Question
Title: Is it possible to build a steering system without using gear racks such as part 87761?
Is it possible to use part 6575 (and together with other Technic pieces) as an alternative to part 87761 for a steering system? (I am trying to use Technic pieces from Technic 42030 set to simulate this MOC). If possible, how do I go about it?

Part 87761

Part 6575

# Answer
It's possible to build a steering system without using a gear rack. Rack and pinion steering is simply one of the easiest ways to translate the rotational motion of a steering wheel to the translational motion needed to adjust the wheels.

Here's one example of using tie rods and a knuckle to accomplish steering:

That's obviously quite complicated because it incorporates suspension as well as steering, but it's too pretty to not include. This basic concept is what is often used on go carts because it's dead simple, and mechanical advantage isn't very important on vehicles that small:

This design can be simplified to not need ball joints as long as all the moving parts stay in the same plane. Here's an example of Ackermann steering implemented that way:

You could swap 6575 into that design instead of 2825 pretty easily.

Here's an even simpler example with a motor mounted perpendicularly to avoid even needing to use any gears:
> 3 votes

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Tags: technic
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# Question
Title: Identify 2011 set number, red car with criminal minifigure
This bag is from a 2011 set, it's 150-250 pieces and it appears to be a car.

# Answer
> 3 votes
This is from set 60007: High Speed Chase based on Chains M Plate M 5 Ø¸3, 2 Hole. There are only two sets with this part in Medium Stone Grey. The other set is the Star Wars UCS B-wing

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Tags: set-identification, city
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title: What is this "patent pending" part?

text:
# Question
Title: What is this "patent pending" part?
I found this part in our LEGO collection, and I'm really curious what it might be, it looks old and says "Pat. pend" on the back. Do you know? Thanks!

# Answer
It's a tie plate from the original 4.5V train system, specifically from a "switch point right":

http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=x879cx1#T=C
> 9 votes

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Tags: part-identification, trains
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title: Best set to build a tracked vehicle?

text:
# Question
Title: Best set to build a tracked vehicle?
I want to build a tracked "all-terrain" vehicle myself (MOC), which should have the ability to climb over obstacles. Something alike https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXVO-wbWKxo

Now I'm looking for the technic model which has *"the best"* tracks to use. What would you recommend? It looks like I have the following options:

What's the recommendation?

# Answer
> 4 votes
All 3 of the sets you listed actually use the same type of tracks, they are *Technic, Link Tread Wide with Two Pin Holes* #57518.

In my opinion this type would be your best option for driving a robot for a number of reasons:

* Since they come as links the tracks can be made any length you want, allowing a lot of flexibility in designing the robot. These are virtually the only link-based, variable-length tracks LEGO makes that would be suitable for driving a robot.
* They are *very* sturdy and do not break or come undone easily at all.
* They fit very securely on the cogs and practically never slip. This is true even with a moderate degree of slack on the line, making it not necessary to measure the distances between/around the cogs to perfectly match the length of the track.

If you are going to be using these on your robot, you will need some cogs to drive them. These tracks can be driven with the *Technic Tread Sprocket Wheels* #57520 (small - 6T) and 57519 (large - 10T).

I would also recommend getting some *Technic, Link Tread Attachment, Double, Rubber* #14149. These handy little rubber grips fit on the tracks to give them better traction. They work especially well on smooth, hard surfaces and for gripping stuff to climb over.

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Tags: technic, tracks, tracked-vehicle
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# Question
Title: Where can I go to get good custom LEGO minifigures?
I want certain LEGO minifigures, but TLG doesn't make them. I would like to find someone or someplace to get some good custom minifigures. I can pay.

# Answer
> 1 votes
There are several minifig-customizer businesses ... the most famous one is likely http://minifigs.me.

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Tags: minifigures, shopping, customization
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# Question
Title: Which LEGO vehicle set do I have here? 6 wheels and orange bricks
Can anyone help identify this kit? I received it in a bag with the number 5 on the outside and the year 2011. I'm really keen to build it but need some help identifying it so that I can get the instructions.

Thanks for your help.

# Answer
> 7 votes
Set 4635 - Fun with Vehicles. Specifically the tow truck pictured top center.

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Tags: piece-information
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# Question
Title: Trying to work out where a 'spare' part goes on Wall-E (21303)
I've built a wall-e (set number 21303). This is the corrected version - and I've found, in addition to the 'obvious' spares, like 1x1 flats and round antennae, I have a 4x4 dark grey (4243831) left over. I can't work out where it goes

Image taken from google images, but its the same part

The only place where I can find one in the instructions in in step 65/page 54, and the parts count in instructions confirm there are two. The set's *built* and I don't notice any cosmetic or structural deficiencies in the design, but its *bothering me*

I've checked through the instruction manual a few times, focusing on the main body (since the arms, and head is paired parts, and there's no space on the neck for a 4x4)

What am I missing?

# Answer
> 6 votes
One is used in step 54 on page 49 and another one in step 65 on page 58. It's likely you missed the one from step 65 as it is just reinforcing the "flap" on the front of Wall-E - not a structural component.

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Tags: instructions
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# Question
Title: Why remote controls are seldom used in Technic sets?
(As of Jul 2016) According to this, it mention that currently there are a total of 376 Technic sets. However, this information mention that only 6 of them have the remote control function. This means that only less than 2% of all Technic sets have remote control.

Is there a particular reason(s) why remote control are seldom used in Technic sets?

# Answer
Many Technic sets are small and wouldn't fit motors or need remote controls.

Beyond that it is an extra expense which they need to leave out to make things available at various price points. In some cases LEGO makes the motor optional to keep costs for the initial kit lower. And the remote control adds complexity beyond that.

But the beauty of LEGO is that you're not stuck with their designs. You can add these features yourself if you're motivated enough.
> 4 votes

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Tags: technic, remote-control
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# Question
Title: Are there any LEGO sets that have these two parts?
Are there any LEGO sets that have the following parts:

* Part 57518 (Link Tread Wide with Two Pin Holes)

* Part 15035 / 18405 / 95292 (Large Shock Absorber with Very Hard Spring)

# Answer
> 5 votes
In the spirit of "teach a man how to fish and he will have food for a lifetime", here is how you can find your own answer to this question.

1. Determine rarity of the parts by going to BrickLink and search for the part name or number using the Catalog Search. BrickLink is a little finnicky with names and part numbers so it might take a few tries to get the right part (or to get it to return anything at all). For your items, 95292 only occurs in 3 sets, whereas 57518 appears in 29 sets.
2. You have several ways to go now - but the easiest is to have 2 tabs open, one for each of the list of sets. For each item in the shortest list, check if it occurs in the longer list (if the longer list is long, you can use Ctrl+F in your browser to do a text search on the page). Sorting each list by year might also help in doing this comparison.

For your selection of parts, it is quickly clear that **there is no set that contains both**. Not only that, the shock absorber you are looking for only occurred in 3 sets, all pretty limited in distribution (one of them being a truly Limited Edition of only 20k sets). Expect to be paying $10 per piece on BrickLink if you must have these. You might want to consider its shorter cousin 731c04 which occurs in 22 sets, including some lower-priced starter Technic sets. It can also be bought from many sellers on BrickLink for less than $2 per piece.

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Tags: technic
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title: LEGO Large Shock Absorber alternatives

text:
# Question
Title: LEGO Large Shock Absorber alternatives
Are there cheaper alternatives to Large Shock Absorber with Very Hard Spring (Part No. 15035 / 18405 / 95292 / 95292c01)?

# Answer
As per the answer to your other question, please consider part 731c04 - Yellow Technic, Shock Absorber 6.5L, Complete Assembly - Hard Spring. Not only is it still in production compared to 95292c01, it also has a much wider range of availability and hence costs you less to procure as a piece on BrickLink ($2 vs $10).
> 3 votes

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Tags: technic
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title: Are there LEGO Hygrometer sensors?

text:
# Question
Title: Are there LEGO Hygrometer sensors?
Currently, there are light, ultrasonic, touch and sound Mindstorms sensors, but is there a hygrometer sensor from LEGO?

# Answer
There is not one made by LEGO. However, there are a number of 3rd-party options:
> 3 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, sensor
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# Question
Title: How to disassemble this small Technic turntable, combination of parts 99009 and 99010?
How should I non-destructively disassemble the following parts, when they are newly assembled?

**99009 Light Bluish Gray Technic Turntable Small Bottom**

**99010 Black Technic Turntable Small Top**

# Answer
These parts do not come apart. They are designed to be clicked into place and then remain connected. I have not found nor heard of a way that these can be separated without damaging the plastic and hence the functioning of the part.

The assembled component has part number 99009c01 - Technic Turntable Small, Complete Assembly with Black Outside Gear Section.
> 5 votes

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Tags: technic, disassembly
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# Question
Title: How to convert a bar into an axle or pin - Using the Axel Hub with Four Bars
I would like to utilize the Axle Hub with 4 Bars (#48723) in a way that the four bars would become axles. What is the most concise way to accomplish that?

Here is a diagram of my end goal:

# Answer
> 5 votes
Here are couple of ideas. You could use pins:

Or axles with studs on the end:

Or axle connectors and axles:

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Tags: building, technic
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# Question
Title: Connecting LEGO WeDo USB hub to portable Power Bank
Is it possible to connect the LEGO usb hub from education WeDo series to a portable power bank for power?

**WeDo USB Hub**

**Portable Power Bank**

# Answer
Yes, it uses a standard USB charging configuration. These are designed to be universal, making power distribution easier and cheaper.
> 2 votes

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Tags: compatibility, battery, wedo
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# Question
Title: What's the name of the set including this piece? Red Technic and system pincer?
This piece is a pair of claws/tweezers the I don't know the name of, it's part of the set and might help.

# Answer
Looks like that's Exo-Force set 7701-1, Grand Titan.
> 7 votes

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Tags: sets, set-identification
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# Question
Title: From what series is this brick? Duplo machine piece with yellow button, copyright 2007
We have ten of these, but I don't know from which series! When pressing the yellow button it makes a sound that could be a train or a tractor or something like that. We are curious. Does anyone know?

# Answer
> 7 votes
This is a Duplo Sound Effects Brick 2 x 4 with Water and Pump Sounds (Set 5605) brick from 2008. It featured only in 1 set, 5605 Tanker Truck.

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Tags: part-identification, duplo, electronics
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# Question
Title: How should I prepare one (currently built) LEGO set before selling it?
I have a large used LEGO set that I'm hoping to sell or gift onwards (Scorpion Pyramid). It's currently built (and therefore complete, and not mixed up with any other LEGO), but I'm not sure what to do to prepare it for passing on.

* Do I take it apart? (I'm assuming yes)
* Do I try to sort the bricks back into build-order bags (i.e. the mixture of pieces that comprised bag 1, bag 2 etc), or do I sort them some other way by type of piece and colour? What would a buyer expect to see?

# Answer
> 5 votes
I have bought several used sets and it's a mix - sometimes people send the entire set built, sometimes split into larger chunks, and sometimes broken apart into individual pieces. It all depends on the current state of the set (fully assembled, partly assembled) and on the dimensions and availability of the shipping supplies. In the US it is easier to break the set apart and fit it in one of the pre-priced USPS shipping boxes that give you a uniform rate.

As a buyer, I always break the sets I receive down to the individual items and then inventory the sets using the full set inventory. Time intensive but it assures me I get the full set, and that there are no short-cuts/substitutions etc.

# Answer
> 3 votes
I haven't bought much used Lego. But normally an entire set would be mixed together into one or two ziplock bags.

Given that the set is currently assembled, are you sure it has all the parts? Sometimes there are loose parts or figures that don't make it onto the final build. You may want to double-check with the instructions by rebuilding it.

Finally, is the set dusty or dirty or oily? If so you may want to consider dusting it or washing it (mild, warm, soapy water).

If you're feeling adventurous you could re-sort the set into bags corresponding to the instruction steps. I'm not sure a buyer would expect that. Or, perhaps more easily, if you sorted the parts by colour, it might make it easier to verify the inventory.

# Answer
> 3 votes
As a general answer, it depends. Having to search for parts in a pile of LEGO can be one part of the pleasure of building. Unless the model has 1000+ pieces and it can become a nightmare.

---

### If you have time

You can disassemble the set by following the instructions in reverse order and pack parts in several bags, then give them numbers in reverse order.

### Otherwise

One quicker solution may be to:

1. split the pyramid from the top to the bottom
2. disassemble each part and put the parts in a bag
3. number the bags in descending order (e.g.. 7 for top, 1 for bottom)

Since LEGOs are very often assembled from bottom to top, the other person will just have to open the bag 1 to start the assembly, etc.

But the instructions may not match perfectly with the order of the bags, so you should probably inform the other person that if a part can't be found at a given step, it should be in following bags.

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Tags: shopping, organisation, trading
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# Question
Title: How to receive response from direct_command_reply from EV3 using Python?
I've established and tested a Bluetooth connection (by playing a tone) between EV3 and Mac running Yosemite with Python 2.7.11.

I used file write as in bt.write(tone) in Python to play the tone with the "tone" variable having the direct command. Now, I'm trying to read a .rtf text file that is on the brick using Python.

I'm using a direct command for this. I have created a byte stream for the direct command using opFile (with open\_read, read\_value and close) all packaged into one direct command (DIRECT\_COMMAND\_REPLY).

Now, since I'm using Python file write to write this direct command to the Bluetooth serial port, how do I get the value returned (the text value in the .rtf file) by the direct command?

Python file write does not have a return value. Please help on how I can get the reply from the direct command with Python.

# Answer
Reading files is better done by system commands. Here is a class EV3, that sends direct commands and system commands. The program sends a direct command (does nothing) and uses the system commands BEGIN\_UPLOAD and CONTINUE\_UPLOAD to read file */bin/usb-devices* from the EV3 device:

```
#!/usr/bin/env python3

import socket
import struct
import time

class EV3():
    def __init__(self, host: str):
        self._sock = socket.socket(
            socket.AF_BLUETOOTH,
            socket.SOCK_STREAM,
            socket.BTPROTO_RFCOMM
        )
        self._sock.connect((host, 1))

    def __del__(self):
        self._sock.close()

    def send_direct_cmd(self, ops: bytes, local_mem: int=0, global_mem: int=0) -> bytes:
        dir_cmd = b''.join([
            struct.pack('<h', len(ops) + 5),
            struct.pack('<h', 42),
            DIRECT_COMMAND_REPLY,
            struct.pack('<h', local_mem*1024 + global_mem),
            ops
        ])
        self._sock.send(dir_cmd)
        self.printHex('Sent', dir_cmd)
        reply = self._sock.recv(5 + global_mem)
        self.printHex('Recv', reply)
        return reply

    def send_system_cmd(self, cmd: bytes) -> bytes:
        sys_cmd = b''.join([
            struct.pack('<h', len(cmd) + 3),
            struct.pack('<h', 42),
            SYSTEM_COMMAND_REPLY,
            cmd
        ])
        self._sock.send(sys_cmd)
        self.printHex('Sent', sys_cmd)
        time.sleep(0.1)
        return self._sock.recv(1024)

    def printHex (self, desc: str, hex: bytes) -> None:
        """Print a hex-String in human readable form"""
        print(desc + ' 0x|' + ':'.join('{:02X}'.format(byte) for byte in hex) + '|')

DIRECT_COMMAND_REPLY = b'\x00'
SYSTEM_COMMAND_REPLY = b'\x01'
opNop                = b'\x01'
BEGIN_UPLOAD = b'\x94'
CONTINUE_UPLOAD = b'\x95'

# direct command
my_ev3 = EV3('00:16:53:42:2B:99')
ops = opNop
my_ev3.send_direct_cmd(ops)

# system commands
path = '/bin/usb-devices'
cmd = b''.join([
    BEGIN_UPLOAD,
    struct.pack('<H', 1012),      # SIZE
    str.encode(path) + b'\x00'    # NAME
])
reply = my_ev3.send_system_cmd(cmd)
(size, handle) = struct.unpack('<IB', reply[7:12])
part_size = min(1012, size)
fmt = str(part_size) + 's'
data = struct.unpack(fmt, reply[12:])[0]
rest = size - part_size
while rest > 0:
    part_size = min(1016, rest)
    cmd = b''.join([
        CONTINUE_UPLOAD,
        struct.pack('<BH', handle, part_size)
    ])
    reply = my_ev3.send_system_cmd(cmd)
    fmt = 'B' + str(part_size) + 's'
    (handle, part) = struct.unpack(fmt, reply[7:])
    data += part
    rest -= part_size
print(data.decode("utf8"))

```

You find additional details in Lesson 11. Or look in github. I hope, this helps!
> -1 votes

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Tags: ev3, bluetooth, python
---


# Question
Title: Is there on/off function on the 8879 IR Speed Remote Control?
Just got 8879 IR Speed Remote Control yesterday. Does it have an on/off switch? We don't see one.

# Answer
No, it doesn't have a specific on-off switch.

But like most remote controls, it uses very little power unless it's actually transmitting. I find that self-discharge in the batteries is more of an issue than the tiny power use testing to see if you're using the controls.

Where this can be a problem is if you throw the controller in with a bunch of loose Lego, and a button ends up pressed. That will drain the batteries quite fast, because the controller is constantly transmitting (just as it would if you used your finger to press the button). So the main thing I worry about is making sure the remotes are all stored with nothing touching the controls.
> 3 votes

# Answer
Sadly, no. Sorry for your short battery life.
> 0 votes

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Tags: trains, power-functions, city, remote-control
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# Question
Title: How to buy a lot of LEGO Technic bricks?
At first, I bought 6 lbs of LEGO Technic bricks. however it was dirty and used. Also there were only holed bricks and I can't find many gears or axles. I want to make Technic creations or MOC's, but I don't know how to get enough bricks to make it.

# Answer
> 6 votes
Usually the most economical way to acquire LEGO elements is to just buy full sets (ideally on sale). So if you have a particular design in mind, look at the currently available - or recently retired - LEGO Technic sets and see which one would have all or most of the pieces you would like to work with.

You can also check eBay and BrickLink for used LEGO Technic sets. They are less expensive than new condition sets, but are still well taken care of by the original owner. If a few pieces are missing they are even cheaper. Building up a LEGO Technic collection this way usually works out better than just buying random lots from resellers.

In general BrickLink is the better way to go as the sellers are also dedicated LEGO fans and won't sell you something they wouldn't be happy with themselves. However eBay could be cheaper. If there are good pictures of the used set, and they are from the original owner, you can find great deals.

In summary, when you buy pre-owned, it is best to find slightly used full sets from original adult owners. The pieces will be in better condition and the selection of parts will also be better, rather than just buying random lots where you don't know the history and condition of the pieces, and the seller is not the original owner.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I would buy the EV3 Robot kit first, and fill in the things you find you need later on Brick Link. Besides that a full pocket of money is very helpful.

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Tags: technic, shopping
---


# Question
Title: Is there a way to glue already built sets?
My son who is now 16 no longer plays with his Lego sets. He would like to preserve some of his larger sets like Jabba the Hutts sail barge. Is there anything we can spray or paint on to hold them together? Or do we need to take it apart and glue it?

# Answer
> 34 votes
Although it can be done (I will share below), I would sincerely discoure you from gluing your LEGO sets. You will very much regret it later. Here are the reasons why: LEGO is meant to be a building toy - put together and taken apart many times. Once you glue a set it completely looses its usefulness and becomes nothing but another item to take up the shelf and collect dust.

LEGO has generational value. Your son may have lost interest now (very common in teen years), but may want to get back to the hobby later. He will definitely regret gluing his sets. Also, even if he doesn't get back to the hobby, if he will decide to have kids in the future, they will greatly appreciate having the opportunity to play and build with LEGO. Many LEGO fans inharited their LEGO sets from their parents and even grandparents. The long-term value of LEGO is truly amazing.

And this brings up the third point against gluing LEGO. The sets you mention have significant value that will only rise when the sets get retired. If your family ever gets into financial trouble and need to get some cash quickly, you can sell those LEGO sets - but not if they are glued.

I would encourage you to consider just boxing the sets (either built or taken apart) and just store them away carefully. It is really your best option that would keep both the value and the usefulness of the sets.

Having said that; if you still want to glue the sets, yes, you will need to take them apart and glue them. The most gentle glue that would not damage the LEGO elements too much but will hold the model together is simple white school-glue. You only need to add very little in between elements so the glue doesn't come out at the edges.

Another option is to just wrap the whole set in thin plastic sheet (the kind used for wrapping food). This is more for storage and moving the set around, but the tight-fitting plastic prevents the set from falling apart.

# Answer
> 4 votes
A better way to preserve LEGO is to put it in some sort of display case. It maintains the value and keeps the dust off.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Use MEK (Methyl ethyl ketone). Can buy it in hardware or auto body shop supplies. In auto body work it is used to degrease and clean adhesives off surfaces. It is also a major component of ABS plastic cement, which you can also use but it's messier. You can also put a bit of MEK in a glass jar and then throw in old lego pieces to create a filler and cementer. But that is a rare thing to need.

I use an eye dropper bottle (glass of course) or glass syringe to glue parts together. You MUST be in a well ventilated area, and I mean well ventilated. MEK melts plastic so put the pieces together before it evaporates. If your eyes are near MEK they will be bloodshot, so have a fan or do this outside, like I do. Also wear those cool blue non latex gloves to protect your hands.

I use MEK to glue major structures together that fall apart - like supports. In tall structures I will glue the structure into two halves so that they can be stored partially unassembled, and then put back together. It is also useful to glue things like space shuttle parts that continually fall off when played with. I never glue all of the pieces, just the major parts that support the toy, that way it can still be disassembled.

MEK works great and I love how it keeps builds together that would otherwise be lost forever in masses of parts stored in bins and tubs.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I have Lego sets that have been on display for years, including the relatively fragile AT-AT from 2003. It has stood, fully assembled and almost never touched, since I first got it in late 2003/early 2004. In all that time it's gotten dusty, so I've used various things to clean it: a vacuum with a brush (if you're sure there are no loose parts), a can of compressed air, and a sink of soapy water. You can submerge this whole model, or take parts of it apart, and wash the dust off, in a few minutes.

At the end of the day, it is still in near-perfect condition, because it's never played with and just sits there. I never, ever, wish it had been glued. Why would it need gluing? I can always put it back together if anything falls off. The lego pieces hold themselves together just fine.

There are two areas where its preservation is lacking: First and foremost, sunlight. Sunlight changes the colour of the bricks. I keep this one out of direct sun and it hasn't yellowed too much. But the light-grey pieces are particularly prone to discolouration and I'm sure the outer shell of the model has changed colour somewhat. The only thing that would have helped is UV-protection.

Second, some of the technic pins that hold it together have weakened over the years. These can be easily replaced if they become a problem.

Otherwise, this model has stood as a display piece for 10 years now, but if I wanted to, I could disassemble it and use all its pieces in a new creation.

I offer this as evidence that you do not need to glue models, and as TheBrickBlogger wrote, while it's possible, I would discourage it. It doesn't "preserve" the model in any useful sense, except keeping it together so that no pieces get lost or missing. If the model isn't going to be moved around a lot, or played with, nothing will fall off. And if something does fall off, it can easily be put back.

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Tags: glue
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title: Cutting a LEGO baseplate

text:
# Question
Title: Cutting a LEGO baseplate
I have a regular LEGO baseplate that I'd like to shave down to fit into a car travel kit. Does anyone have experiencing cutting a baseplate? I'd love tips on tools or technique!

# Answer
The easiest way to do this is to score the baseplate with a straightedge and knife. Once you've made a deep enough cut, you should be able to bend and break the plate where you've scored it. You may want to sand the edge to clean it up a bit.

There's a more detailed set of instructions in this Instructable.
> 12 votes

# Answer
Press down 8 x 2 / 10 x 2 / 16 x 2 plates etc. to the board to give you a cutting line, make sure they are firmly pressed down.

On a flat surface, gently score the board tight up to the edge of the plates 2 or three times then firmly bend to snap the board and finish by trimming a small 45 degree.

Cut at the new sharp corners and hand finish with fine rubbing down paper. I retail vintage / used Lego and we often cut down damaged boards to make smaller ones and this method works well so long as you don't try to cut too hard and lose the line up against the guiding plates.
> 2 votes

# Answer
I advise you to use a sandpaper. First use a clamp to fix the part you want to cut, then use sandpaper. Instead of trying to cut it i think you should grind it with sandpaper.
> 0 votes

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Tags: building, customization
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