# Question
Title: Where can I find LEGO Digital Designer projects for Lego Technic MOCs?
I have LEGO Technic pieces collected from multiple sets and would like to find projects on the web which I can view and build models step by step. Please advise sources where I can find these.

# Answer
Eurobricks forum has hundreds of official sets in LDD format here: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=41226&#entry727293
> 7 votes

# Answer
As suggested on this question Rebrickable has a number of MOCs based on Technic parts.

If you happen to know which sets you have, you can create an account, add your sets, and then filter those MOCs to just ones you can build.

However, not all of these are available as LDD projects, some are "photo sets".
> 2 votes

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Tags: ev3, building, technic, instructions
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# Question
Title: Cost of different works in a LEGO set price?
What percentage of a LEGO set's price goes toward research, design, manufacturing, marketing etc.

It's just my curiosity since all my minifigures (from Series 3) are made in China and I don't know if LEGO has factories in China or they just outsources it to other Chinese manufacturers.

# Answer
The 2012 annual report on the LEGO Groups site states the following:

> **Research and development activities** Each year, new launchings account for approximately 60% of the LEGO Group’s sales to consumers. Therefore, the Group has considerable development activities, comprising anything from trend spotting and anthropological studies to the actual development of specific products and campaigns. Approximately 160 designers from about 20 different countries make up the creative core of product development that is mainly based at company headquarters in Billund, Denmark.

It's hard to quantise exactly how much of each set goes into the various different aspects you're asking about as different sets will have different margins on them. Taking some of the numbers in the report however, you can see things like:

On Revenue of 23,000mDKK:

* 6,800m was spent on "production costs" (about 30%) - these are defined as "raw materials, consumables, direct labour costs and indirect production costs such as maintenance and depreciation, etc.". These are further broken down to include:
    + **4,400m on Raw materials and consumables**
    + 1,500m on Licence and Royalty expenses
* 1,200m was spent on "other operating costs" (about 5%) - these are defined as "\[including\] royalty and research and development costs". This is further broken down to include:
    + **451m on Research and Development**
* 6,100m was spent on "Sales and distribution expenses" (about 27%) - these are defined as "costs in the form of salaries to sales and distribution staff, advertising and marketing expenses as well as depreciation, etc."

In terms of where parts are made, this answer covers most of it, but as you rightly note, Minifigs, and some painted parts now come from China. In terms of R&D, this answer talks about how new pieces could come about.

**Updated:** Some of the actual break-downs in here come from the "2012" columns in the 2013 report.
> 7 votes

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Tags: manufacturing, lego-group
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title: EV3 and HiTechnic Color Sensor Block

text:
# Question
Title: EV3 and HiTechnic Color Sensor Block
Can I use the Hitechnic Color Sensor with my EV3? At the HiTechnic web site I cannot find the necessary files for importing the Hitechnic Color Sensor Block into the EV3 software.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Yes there is

On the HiTechnic website: =\> download http://www.hitechnic.com/downloadnew.php?category=38

This is preliminary release of the HiTechnic EV3 Color Sensor Block. Note that this block only supports the EV3 and will not work with the NXT. Zip file includes both the Color Sensor block and a sample program that shows the color sensor values on the EV3 screen. See instructions at top of this downloads page for installation instructions.

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Tags: ev3
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title: Minifigure Torso Cracks

text:
# Question
Title: Minifigure Torso Cracks
So I recently picked up the new Star Wars AT-AP and I was quite please with what I got, but after not even a week The awesome Commander Gree Figure had a torso crack that went from the bottom of the left side to About halfway to the top. It was put together and put on a shelf. No kids played with it or anything.

Is this because of the legs stretching it out or has the quality of LEGO decreased? Also how can I fix this without using glue?

# Answer
> 2 votes
Given that this is from a new set that is currently in production, you should contact LEGO customer service and they'll probably send you a replacement torso at no charge. LEGO has a pretty simple site to handle this:

https://service.lego.com/en-us/replacementparts#BasicInfo

You just have to enter your age and the issue that you are having, then you enter the set number (75043 in this case) and find the piece that is broken from the parts list. I just checked, and that torso is currently listed, so you should be in good shape. I've had this same torso issue, and they were happy to send a replacement.

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Tags: minifigures, star-wars, repair, replacement-parts
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# Question
Title: Which bricks warrant an extra to be included in a set?
I know *why* there are extra pieces in the sets, but I'm curious to find out which pieces will typically have an extra.

I know that usually 1x1 plates (both square and round) will have an extra included in the set, as well as cheese wedges. But I was surprised to find an extra *double* cheese wedge included once (I don't remember which set it was, but no, it wasn't a piece I overlooked in the building instructions). I have other sets with double cheese wedges that didn't have an extra, so I wonder:

Is there a list of pieces that will usually come with an extra?

Are there other criteria used to determine whether a piece will have an extra?

# Answer
The ones that come with extras are almost always the smallest pieces in the kit that would be easy to lose and are negligible in weight.

From gizmodo article of LEGO FAQs:

> **Why did I always have pieces left over when I built my castle sets? Do they just do that to jack with kids?**
>
> For two reasons: first, because some pieces are so small that they weigh too little to be measured by their scale, during packaging (you will see this when I publish the factory tour. J.) Second, because it's better to have too many of those pieces than have one of them missing. Since we statistically know what pieces may get lost, we include some extras when appropriate.
> 5 votes

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Tags: sets, piece-information
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# Question
Title: What different types of LEGO train tracks exist?
I would like to purchase some used LEGO train tracks off of ebay. I am not, however, very familiar with the different choices of track systems are out there that I might come across. So I would like to learn more about the existing types of track systems. What kinds has LEGO used at various eras in their history? Are they inter-changable? If I'd like train tracks that are compatible with the currently available new LEGO city train sets, what types of tracks should I consider?

If possible, I'd love to see photos of a basic piece of each kind side by side to see the differences.

# Answer
> 52 votes
The main LEGO train systems are all roughly compatible. They all use a 6 stud gauge, so with a bit of fiddling, you can use all of the systems together. If you want to be most compatible with the current track offerings, you're better off with 9V and RC/PF track. This question discusses the specific compatibility issues in more detail.

There are several other train systems that have been used that are not compatible (DUPLO trains, 4 guage rails, etc), but I'll just cover the common 6 gauge systems here.

The different types of train track can be divided into a few main eras.

# Blue Era (1966 - 1980)

A track section consisted of 2 rails connected by regular 2x8 plates. The rails themselves were blue.

Trains could be either pushed by hand along the track, powered via 3 batteries (4.5V system), or powered via a third conducting rail added to the center of the track (12V system). Here are what the conducting rails for the 12V system look like:

Some people still prefer the 12V system because it included more remote controlled components than the later 9V or RC/PF systems. With later systems, the only thing that is easily remote controlled is the train itself, whereas the 12V system included remote controlled points, light, and decouplers.

Each era included straight track, curved track, switches, and cross track.

# Gray Era (1980 - 1991)

These rails are generally the same as the blue rails aside from the new gray color.

The sleepers were moved closer together (3 per section rather than 2), and they were changed to a specialized part to improve the strength of the connection. Here's what the sleepers look like:

The trains of this era were still either powered by 4.5V batteries or the 12V conducting rails.

# 9V Era (1991 - 2006)

The 9V era completely changed the track components, and did away with the old 4.5V and 12V voltages. Rails sections were a single piece, and they were all conducting.

The 9v system included straight, curved, switch, and cross track.

# RC / Power Functions / Powered Up Era (2007-)

In 2006, LEGO switched back to non-conducting rails with roughly the same mold as the 9V track. Trains are now all battery-powered under either the RC or currently the Power Functions and Powered UP systems.

This era included the first and only crossover switch (7996) :

It also introduced flexible track:

Switches are also available, but a cross track has not yet been released for PF track.

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Tags: piece-information, trains
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title: Part Identification - bricks with posts

text:
# Question
Title: Part Identification - bricks with posts
I have two unusual lego pieces that came from a collection of used legos that mostly seem to date from the 1970's that I am unable to identify using LDraw's ldfind app. What are these parts, and if known, what sort of sets might they have come from?

The red one is a 2x6 plate with only two knobs on the top of the plate, with a triangular post with that is about three bricks tall with one knob on top of the post. The bottom of this brick says "Pat. pend" and has A and 1 designations.

The black one is a 2x4 brick that looks like a wheel brick with holes on the sides that might be for wheels, except on top there is a tall post and two short knobs. The bottom of this brick says "Pat. pend" and has E and 4 inside the circles. It sort of looks like a technic post, but thicker.

# Answer
The black piece is part of a steering mechanism, part of *377-2: Crane With Float Truck*. Here it is on BrickLink.

---

Like Windfire says, the red part is a direction switcher. You can see the switch on the side of the battery car.
> 6 votes

# Answer
The Red piece: Bricklink number 3218 http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=3218

4.5v direction switcher for trains. Works with a long switch on the side of a special train brick that hits the triangular post, moves and then reverses the motor.

The black piece is still a mystery.
> 5 votes

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Tags: piece-information, part-identification
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# Question
Title: What is the correct input voltage for the 9v Lego train speed regulator?
I wanted to buy a transformer for the speed regulator, so based on this image, I bought a transformer with 12V DC output. It works.

However, discussing this with a fellow AFOL, he pointed out that his (original from LEGO) transformer has a 10V AC output, as seen in this image.

So... which one is correct? Or they both work? Or there are different versions of the speed regulator with different input requirements?

# Answer
> 3 votes
My speed regulator is clearly labeled as being 9-12V AC. I have an official 12VAC transformer.

I was curious about the internals of this device, so I opened it up:

The circuit begins with 4 diodes in standard bridge rectifier configuration. This converts the AC input into a rippled DC voltage. The large capacitor (2200uF, 25V) then cleans up the ripples. There is also an LM317 adjustable voltage regulator configured to output various voltages depending on the dial setting.

This means that the input can be 9-12 voltes AC or DC because the rectifier simply passes DC current.

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Tags: power-functions, electronics, 9v
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# Question
Title: When and why were pieces 3651 and 3652 discontinued?
Bricklink has piece 3651 as *Axle and Pin Connector*, while piece 3652 is *Engine Piston Square 2x2*. You could attach them to each other to form a piston.

Service pack 5260, *Connecting Rods and Stop Bushes*, has them together in a set.

When were they discontinued?

Why were these useful parts discontinued?

# Answer
> 6 votes
# 3652 Technic Engine Piston Square 2 x 2

This part was included in sets from 1977 until 1995, but it began to be replaced by 2851 starting in 1990:

The main advantage of the newer piston is that it allows more pistons to fit in a smaller area of space. The piston is able to fit into the 2850 2x2 cylinder:

The old piston required a brick-built 4x4 cylinder, so the new part allows for either smaller engines, or engines with more pistons in the same amount of space.

Imagine how much space it would take to build this V8 using the old style of piston:

# 3651 Technic Axle and Pin Connector

This part was technically available in sets from 1977 until 2003, but it was generally replaced by 32013 starting in 1997:

This was part of a general overhaul of Technic axle connectors that replaced 4273 with the angled family of connectors (32013, 32034, 32016, 32192, 32015, and 32014).

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Tags: technic, piece-information, history, discontinued
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# Question
Title: What is this upside down roof peak or boat hull?
Here's another mystery piece from my collection. I'm not 100% sure it's genuine LEGO, but I would love to know whether it is, and if so, what part. It attaches to the bottom of a 2x8 brick securely. No markings to identify branding or part numbers, but other legos it came with were from 1970s era.

It kind of looks like it ought to be a curved roof peak, except it's upside down. Maybe the bottom of a boat hull? But what about the notched slots on the bottom?
* there is a small crack in the narrow end of the brick. The left side is what both sides should look like.

# Answer
It looks to me like this is a Weighted Keel 2 x 8 x 4 (x149). I don't personally have this part, but it looks like your part is this part broken in two:

These were mounted under the floating boats of the late 70s and early 80s.
> 8 votes

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Tags: piece-information, part-identification
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title: Large LEGO Minifig Styles

text:
# Question
Title: Large LEGO Minifig Styles
I'm pretty sure the LEGO figure on the right is the daughter from a 1977 set Nurse and Child. But what about this style of jumbo minifig on the left with arms and legs that bend? When was that from? It might be from a LEGO Basic set? What different styles of minifigs has LEGO produced over the years?

# Answer
> 9 votes
The figure on the left is generally referred to as a Fabuland figure, although I believe that the entire Fabuland line actually featured animals. There were a few basic sets released in the 80s that included human Fabuland-style figures. That one is probably from this fire engine:

Before the introduction of the Minifig in 1978, there was the Maxifig that you noted in your question:

The precursor to the modern minifig was added in 1975:

LEGO released a history of the minifig that you might find interesting.

In addition to the traditional minifig, you may also come across Technic figures which were around for a time.

There were also the Creator figures that were only around briefly in the early 2000s:

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Tags: piece-information, minifigures, part-identification
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# Question
Title: How can I controll the speed of motor using gears?
Can anyone tell me how to use gear wheels to modify the speed of the motor in the Power Functions set 8293?

I know I could use the remote control unit, but I need to have a fixed slow speed on a static unit which will power a non-LEGO moving toy. I need a slow turning axle.

# Answer
Sariel's tutorial is one of the better ones, and his whole web site is worth while. The Eurobricks Technic forum also has a list of tutorials thread that you might find helpful.

Sariel starts very simple and ends up with a discussion of what makes different variants on some of the Lego gears effective...
> 1 votes

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Tags: motor, gears
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# Question
Title: Do regular Lego trains fit onto Duplo tracks?
I have a small kid and a bunch of LEGO Duplo train track. (Like what's in this set.) Would "grown up" sets, like the Emerald Night or Maersk trains, work on that track? They look pretty close (the wheels are a little more than 4 studs apart) but I'd love to hear a definite *yes* or *no* from someone who owns both.

# Answer
The answer is kind of.

I own the Emerald Night and a bunch of Thomas Duplo track. The wheelbase of the Emerald Night is wide enough that the "rails" fit inside the wheels. In fact, the passenger car fits perfectly on the track. Unfortunately, neither the engine nor the tender fit as well, due to the fact that both have pieces on the bottom that are too low to allow them to sit properly with the rails inside the wheels.

This means that the engine will not move on its own. In fact, I have my doubts it would move well even if the wheels reached the track, as it would require the flanges of the wheels to have enough traction to pull the train.
> 10 votes

# Answer
It depends on your goal, as Jason said. He illustrated pretty well why out of the package lego trains don't run on duplo track. However, if you just want something for your kids to dink around with, it is possible to build a wheeled train that will drive on duplo track without using a duplo train as it's base. The trick is to use monster truck tires or "offroad" style tires, and a 2x4 axle that is flat. If your track is curved and not all straight, you also need your tires to articulate on swivel hinges.

Here's something I rigged up for my son from only parts I already have:

It worked well on a fully circular track, though it would catch a little if I made a squiggle track. I think the smaller off-road tires would have worked better but I could only find one four stud wide axle in that size.
> 5 votes

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Tags: trains, duplo, tracks
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# Question
Title: Trouble finding plastic storage bins for MOCs built on 48x48 stud (gray) baseplates - Ideas?
I have a number of models built on gray baseplates that are that are proving to be difficult to store/transport. Lidded plastic bins would be ideal, but I'm having a lot of trouble finding bins with these criteria:

• Flat bottom (no ridges, wheels, etc)
• 15-16" square on the inside bottom, to hold the baseplate
• Approx 6" deep.
• With lid, preferably one that clips shut.

**There's one hiccup:** I'm in Canada, and Amazon/manufacturers don't seem to ship these items here. Any suggestions of particular bins, or where I could get the ones listed below would be great.

Some bins I have seen and considered, that may work if I can find them:

Lego Dacta X-Large Storage Box (#9920)
http://lego.wikia.com/wiki/9920\_Yellow\_Storage\_Box\_with\_Lid
\- Very hard to find, since they're quite old.

Iris Buckle-Up Box 33 QT BCB-SQ Clear
http://www.shopirisusa.com/buckle-up-box-33-qt-bcb-sq-clear.html
\- Best non-Lego one I have seen so far, but I haven't figured out how to get it in Canada.

Really Useful Box 50L
Taller and longer than I'd like, but it could work.

# Answer
> 2 votes
The two solutions I've seen are to measure the size you want and visit places that sell a variety of storage bins so you can find one the right size. In Australia we have a variety of bins about the size of a milk crate or beer crate (about 12" by 9", from back in the day when those units were relevant). The modern plastic equivalents with solid walls and floor will hold a 48 square baseplate quite well, and are designed to stack.

A search for plastic storage container canada suggests that there are chain stores in Canada that sell things like this.

The other solution is to make (or have made) some wooden boxes. A woodworker will be able to cut 6mm or 9mm plywood up and make whatever size box you want and reinforce them a little so they can be stacked. Then you buy chunks of foam and cut them to suit your models. Or just make "bricks" in a range of sizes to pack around random models. The advantage of this is that you get boxes exactly the right size for your models. Using cut to shape foam rather than foam peanuts means that any small parts that fall off are easier to find.

When putting multiple models in one container I prefer to put each in a plastic bag, again so that any parts that come off are easy to find and are associated with a specific model. Opening a big box with several models in it and finding a layer of small parts in the bottom is disheartening not to mention tedious to fix.

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Tags: storage, transport
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# Question
Title: What products, if any, have ever been recalled by LEGO?
The question says it all. Have there ever been any recalls of products by LEGO? If so, what were they?

# Answer
> 5 votes
There is a list of recalls dating back to 2002 on the LEGO site, so that's a start.

It contains two items:

* A specific version of the IR remote, typically used for trains.
* A one piece toy truck, only sold in the USA.

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Tags: history, safety, discontinued
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# Question
Title: Will LEGO Caboose (10014) work with LEGO Cargo Train (7939)?
Will the older LEGO Caboose (10014) work with the LEGO Cargo Train (7939)? I wonder if it will fit the newer track and if the magnet couplers will still work?

# Answer
> 4 votes
**Track**

As a general rule, the rolling stock from all LEGO trains will work with all types of LEGO track. So, the Caboose you've mentioned will work perfectly with the track supplied with the Cargo Train.

There are a couple of exceptions to this rule:

* Duplo track isn't the same gauge as LEGO track, so you shouldn't expect it to work (although you can usually get away with it anyway).
* There are now two gauges of LEGO track, the traditional "L-Gauge" track and a newer narrow gauge. They are, obviously, incompatible.
* Trains that were not designed to run on rails obviously won't run on rails. Sadly, this includes the unmodified Ghost Train (9467).

Electrical components are a different matter. Trains that need a powered rails obviously won't work unless they're running on compatible track. So, the old mains-powered 4.5V, 12V and 9V engines won't work on modern track unless you replace the motor (which can be non-trivial).

Most battery powered trains will be fine on all types of track, although the very early trains had small teeth on their wheels to give them traction against corresponding notches in early track. Although they'll certainly fit the modern track, you might find that they don't run very well unless you swap the wheels.

**Couplings**

The couplings on LEGO trains have always been at the same height, so there are no problems there. The bottom line, then, is that the couplings on the Caboose will work well with the Cargo Train.

The magnetic couplings are generally compatible with each other, so you won't have any problem there, either. The first magnetic couplings were polarised - north and south (red and blue) - so you had to make sure the wagons were the right way around on the track. 9V era trains had magnets that flip round, so they would work whichever way around they were, and were completely compatible with older polarized couplings. The very latest couplings don't swivel in the same way, but are reportedly backward-compatible with all older couplings.

(Of course, the early non-magnetic couplings are incompatible with the magnetic ones, but can usually be replaced with a magnetic coupling without too much difficulty.)

The one problem that some people have encountered with magnetic couplings is that they don't always hold together if the wagons are too heavy. This can happen if your train is too long, for example.

**TL;DR**

The Caboose will work well with the Cargo Train.

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Tags: sets, trains, compatibility
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# Question
Title: Are these ATC bricks from the 1970's LEGO?
I have some Lego compatible basic bricks from early 1970s or late 1960s. Bought in Finland or maybe Germany or Sweden. Can anyone tell me more about them?

As you can see, the interlocking mechanism is different, but fits with normal Lego bricks. The colours are normal Lego white, blue, yellow, red, and black, save for one piece that is bright green.

Here's another photo where you see the logo and interlocking mechanism nearer:

# Answer
> 6 votes
ATC is the Asahi Toy Company from Japan. Here are the pages from their 1971 catalog showing some of their construction sets:

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Tags: piece-information, history, vintage
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# Question
Title: Looking for a site with custom instructions
I'm looking for a website that has some cool custom model instructions. I have a LEGO store near me and I'm able to buy pieces individually. I'm looking for more of a sci-fi ship kind of instructions.

# Answer
There are quite a few individual sites out there offering that sort of thing, however one of the best I've come across is:

> The MOC pages on Rebrickable.com

This is because the site allows you to catalogue all your parts and then search for other sets and MOCs you can build with your existing collection.
> 10 votes

# Answer
The Unique Brick LEGO Creations provides pdf instruction files, for a fee; but they don't seem to carry sci-fi creations.
> 5 votes

# Answer
This **website** has custom instructions, categorized by age and type. **www.buildingexamples.com** A nice feature is that they also provide Apps for smartphones and tables. Have fun!
> 0 votes

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Tags: instructions, set-database, moc
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title: Cell phone holder

text:
# Question
Title: Cell phone holder
Is there build instructions for an interesting cell phone holder that can be placed on a table? The holder needs to hold the phone upright and allow it to be charged at the same time.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I found a very generic one here from Instructables.com. Probably better examples out there that can be customized to your needs.

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Tags: building
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# Question
Title: Where can I find examples of everyday objects built in Lego?
Suppose for example I am interested in creative ways people have made trees, or minifig scale furniture, or just architectural details like windows. Is there some encyclopedia that organizes pictures this way?

# Answer
## The Lego Ideas Book

Recently released last month (19th Sep 2011). Written with the help of adult Lego Fans. I've had a look through the book myself. The book has six chapters focussing on transport, buildings, space, kingdoms, adventure and 'useful makes'. The buildings chapter in-particular focusses on every day objects.

The LEGO Ideas Book, hmillington @Flickr
> 15 votes

# Answer
## Flickr

The photography site has a large community of Lego Fans who share there creations. There is an entire group dedicated to Minifigure scale furniture.
> 5 votes

# Answer
If you can go, try attending an AFOL convention. Brickcon is always a great source of inspiration to me. You'll see great examples of everyday objects & building styles & you have access to some of the model builders themselves. You can get helpful hints from them that even the excellent answers mentioned above can't provide.
> 4 votes

# Answer
You can visit the website buildingexamples.com A lot of examples are there with step-by-step instructions.
> 0 votes

# Answer
You can also get ideas and suggestions from the Rebrickable website. You can see what others have built and get instructions for them.
> 0 votes

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Tags: building
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title: Massive collection given to our charity

text:
# Question
Title: Massive collection given to our charity
I work as a volunteer for Cancer Research U.K. We have been donated massive amounts of vintage Lego.

Could you please advise how to sell.

# Answer
BrickLink or eBay. You could get significantly more if you go through the lot and separate out full sets then sell them on BrickLink. But if you don't have the time at least take a lot of really good pictures - in this case an eBay auction would be the better choice.
> 3 votes

# Answer
Brick Link is a site for buying and selling LEGO. Although it focuses on LEGO fans, who will take the time to enter each piece separately, they *do* have the option to sell 'unsorted lots', so perhaps that's an option for you.
> 0 votes

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Tags: sets, vintage, trading
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# Question
Title: How does cleaning yellowed Lego bricks affect their clutch power?
Will cleaning yellowed bricks (via the retr0brite solution) decrease the clutch power of lego bricks?

I've also heard that certain colors of embellishments on the minifigs or bricks do not hold up well to this solution, is there any definitive list of colors that do/don't hold up well? I have some old white bricks with red and black printing on them that I'd love to unfade if it won't wipe out the lettering.

# Answer
The retr0brite method only affects the surface of the brick and does not affect the clutch power.

I have used the method on several printed bricks. I have noticed the black printing will start to fade if the bricks are left in the solution for a long time. I have not noticed that it affects other colors as much as black, but this may be because the fading of black ink on a white or yellow background is more obvious. I have never seen the treatment completely erase any printing.

The length of time it takes the solution to start breaking down the ink is going to vary with the strength of the solution, the time in the solution and the amount of UV light. You can control the first two variables, but if you are using sunlight to provide the UV it is difficult to gauge or control.

The easiest variable to control is time. I would leave the bricks in the solution for perhaps an hour at a time, then take them out, rinse them off in water and dry them. Keep one of the yellowed bricks as a "control" against which you can compare the treated brick to get an idea of how much color has changed. Repeat as necessary until the brick is back to the color you want or you notice the ink beginning to fade.

Check the color of the bricks indoors. I use the sun on my front porch to provide the UV light when I'm soaking bricks, and I have noticed that bricks that look nice and white when I'm out in the bright sun will still appear yellowed when I get them inside.
> 3 votes

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Tags: cleaning
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title: LEGO plate with square holes?

text:
# Question
Title: LEGO plate with square holes?
I have some white plates with square holes on the underside. I'd almost think they were some imitation brand if they didn't have LEGO stamped on the studs. Can anyone tell me the history of when square hole plates were produced and for what purpose? Is this just a really old design? Why were they changed?

# Answer
> 11 votes
Those would be Waffle Bottoms, which seem to have been mostly phased out by 1969, except for the 4x8 plate that went until 1971. Having not read any deep history on old LEGO designs, I'm going with that was just what they went with to start, then realized that the tubes were much better.

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Tags: part-identification, vintage
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# Question
Title: Is there a way to buy printed pieces to replace stickers?
I don't like stickers on my lego models. Does lego sell pieces with custom printed designs, so I can have newer lego models with all printed pieces like the old days?

If not, how do I print designs on lego pieces?

Every time I look this up on google I get a bunch of results about 3d printing lol.

# Answer
> 2 votes
No, Lego does not sell custom printed bricks in small quantities (I suspect if you wanted thousands of the same design it would be a different story).

To get your search to work you need to use the advanced features, specifically by removing results that contain 3D: print on ABS plastic -3D

That turns up mostly links on screen printing, which would be awfully fiddly to do with Lego pieces.

A friend has a printer that will print properly on Lego, but it was not cheap to buy. IIRC it's an inkjet that takes special cartridges, presumably using the same sort of ink that the screen printers use. If you're willing to spend a couple of thousand dollars on buying a printer I can ask him for details. My solution would be to pay him to print bricks for me, as I also prefer not to use stickers, but I rarely use decorated bricks so that hasn't yet been necessary.

# Answer
> 2 votes
There are many LEGO customizers who do custom printing, however please note that all printing makes sense only if hundreds of the same design are requested. Otherwise there is quite a bit of work involved with designing, formatting, color-matching and aligning each print. However if you have the money and willing to pay a few hundred bucks set-up fee for each design, there are options.

Please note that most LEGO customizers won't be willing to do exact replicas of LEGO's own design, as it is illegal to reproduce and sell them.

You might be better off getting water-slide decals, and even designing them yourself. The end result looks almost the same as direct printing on elements, although they will be more delicate.

If you are interested to get your own printer for LEGO pieces they are called pad-printing machines. They are expensive, but prices are coming down, especially on used ones.

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Tags: design, customization, preservation
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title: Unhappy minifig faces

text:
# Question
Title: Unhappy minifig faces
I dislike how many current sets and mystery figures come with negative expressions such as sad, angry, and mad. Sure they have their place and purposes, but I'd prefer my son not have so many grumpy looking LEGO dudes--I liked the old "every minifig had a smiling face" styles better for that reason. Is there a cost-efficient way to get replacement minifig heads with more appropriate expressions? A way to provide feedback to the Lego group?

# Answer
The classic minifig head can be purchased on Bricklink, and it isn't terribly expensive even in large quantities:

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogPG.asp?P=3626cp01&colorID=3

You can leave feedback on this issue via LEGO Customer Service.
> 4 votes

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Tags: minifigures
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# Question
Title: I can’t run the NXT 1.0 program software on my Mac version 10.6
How do I fix this? I run the install program, restart my computer, go to the “Applications” folder and there is a folder named “LEGO MINDSTORMS NXT”. I open the folder and there are three “options”: a folder named “engine”, a ".ini" file, and a “uninstall” file. I’ve browsed the “engine” folder and it’s full of ".ini” files. The “uninstall” file is a text file.

I don’t have any idea of what to do next. Please help!

# Answer
You can get the Mindstroms NXT 2.0 software from here. It will run on newer versions of OS X.
> 1 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, nxt, programming
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# Question
Title: Use iPhone camera as an input sensor for EV3
As EV3 has Bluetooth builtin as well as iPhone too, is there a way to connect them somehow so that iPhone could send data from the camera via Bluetooth to an EV3 brick?

As a more general question, can I make iPhone send/receive data to/from the brick via Bluetooth, e.g. commands, with Objective C or other ways?

# Answer
> 1 votes
I haven't come across any existing projects like this yet, but there is nothing stopping you from doing this yourself. I would suggest writing an app for your phone in Obj-C and just remote controlling the EV3 via bluetooth.

The bluetooth communication uses the RFCOMM profile. This post might give you some hints on getting the bluetooth connection.

You can find the EV3 communication protocol specifications in the hardware developers kit that is linked in this blog post.

Hopefully this is is enough to get you started.

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Tags: ev3, bluetooth, ios
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title: Why are they called "minifigs"?

text:
# Question
Title: Why are they called "minifigs"?
Were larger-scale LEGO figures the standard at some point in the past? It just seems odd to me that they're called "mini" when they're basically the only kind of LEGO figures available (not counting vastly larger figures that are themselves models.)

# Answer
The minifigure is so-called because the original LEGO "Family" figures that were released in 1974 where somewhat larger, with bodies made from 2x2 Bricks, and arms made from hinged tubes.

There's a bit more of a condensed history in the minifigure tag wiki, and there is a bit more information about the minifigure as we know it today in the Company Profile
> 19 votes

# Answer
Apart from the family figures, there was also the 1988 Technic action figures set (8712), which stood about 2.5 minifigs high from memory. There have been a few iterations over the years up into the 90's.
> 4 votes

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Tags: minifigures, history
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# Question
Title: Small LEGO train sets on narrow gauge track?
Will LEGO sets such as "LEGO Christmas Train" 40034 or "Emerald-Express" 31015 run (manually) on narrow gauge LEGO track? These sets use a wheelbase that is only 4 studs wide and wheels that have a groove in them.

# Answer
> 2 votes
It might work as is; but if not, you can certainly replace the wheels on 40034 with small train wheels, as seen in about every set featuring narrow track. Chance is, if you've got narrow track, you probably have some of these wheels anyway (unless you got the track from the flying saucer); but in any case these wheels aren't that hard to find. Not sure three sets of wheels in a row would work though, so maybe you'll need to remove the center ones.

For 31015 this might be a bit more complex to replace the big wheels, but maybe regular train wheels might work here. Again, having too many wheels in a row might be a problem as the narrow track curves are very short.

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Tags: trains
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# Question
Title: Is it possible to change the OS in the EV3 Mindstorm Brick
I'd like to know how to change the OS embedded into the EV3 mindstorm Brick ( list of it ). For example, would it be possible to replace the existing one by a linux release without losing any functionality ?

I want to to use an OS supporting all the Robot EV3 functionalities and also the 802.15.4 protocol.

# Answer
This can usually be achieved on the EV3 with a bootable SD card - you would set that up with a new firmware image and a loader that copies it across to the brick.

The leJOS team have ported their codebase to the EV3 - so with a bootable SD card you can indeed load a modified version of the firmware onto your EV3 brick.

You can then use their WiFi stack to communicate with your brick via a USB dongle - whether they support 802.15.4 yet (or ever will) I couldn't say.

> The WiFi stack is loaded to allow connection to the EV3 via a supported USB WiFi adaptor. This allows you to connect to the EV3 via Telnet, SSH and NFS and makes program development very simple.
> 5 votes

# Answer
I am working on a project called ev3dev that runs Debian on the EV3. We are not quite to the point that we support "all the Robot EV3 functionalities", but we are getting very close. We are also using a version 3.3.0 Linux kernel, which is more up to date than the other EV3 firmware projects that I know of (which use a 2.6.33 kernel). If you would like to propose that we add 802.15.4 support, just create a new issue. We welcome anyone who who would like to contribute.
> 4 votes

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Tags: ev3, programming
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# Question
Title: Retrobrite cleaning on old cellulose acetate bricks?
Is Retrobrite (cleaning with hydrogen peroxide, oxyclean, sunlight) effective or ineffective or, worse, downright destructive on old cellulose acetate bricks?

My understanding is that method of cleaning is designed for ABS bricks. What if there are cellulose acetate bricks mixed in the collection at random? Will they be harmed?

# Answer
The yellowing that is common in some colors is caused when a fire retardant that was added to the ABS plastic breaks down under UV light.

One of the elements used in the fire retardant is bromine. When the chemical degrades, bromine atoms can be freed and can make their way to the surface of the brick where they bond with an oxygen molecule (O2) and take on a characteristic brown tint.

The Retrobrite process uses UV light to break the weak bond between the bromine and oxygen and then replaces the oxygen molecule with hydrogen (from the hydrogen peroxide solution). This molecule is colorless, so the brown tint disappears.

Cellulose acetate bricks did not contain the brominated fire retardant chemical and so are not susceptible to the yellowing problem. You will usually find that the older cellulose acetate bricks are brighter and hold their color more consistently than newer bricks that contained the retardant. Modern LEGO bricks no longer contain brominated chemicals.

Hydrogen peroxide can have a bleaching effect on cellulose acetate plastic. As with any bleach, prolonged exposure can damage materials. The solutions of hydrogen peroxide that are sold as household strength are relatively weak and should not significantly damage the plastic for the few hours they are normally in the retrobrite solution.
> 2 votes

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Tags: cleaning, cellulose-acetate
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# Question
Title: Personal part collection on the web (Bricklink or alternative)
I started using Brinklink a few months ago and although I like it, the interface is quite terrible. I'm looking for a specific feature but don't know if it's unsupported or just I cannot find it.

How can I create my personal parts collection on Bricklink, something like a catalog of parts that I have? Other options I require would be adding parts from whole sets and adding bricks from my placed orders.

If this cannot be done please suggest alternative websites or even desktop applications that can do this?

# Answer
> 4 votes
An alternative to using BrickLink for those purposes would be http://rebrickable.com. I personally find the interface to have some warts, but definitely better than BrickLink in a lot of ways. In particular to your requested features it does support importing parts from sets (Look for the "Add to my Parts (Part out set)" link on any set description page) as well as importing from Bricklink Orders in XML format and a few other sources. If your long term plans involve selling some of those parts on BrickLink it also supports a decent set of export options that can help out with that as well.

# Answer
> 2 votes
The easiest way to achieve what you want to is register as a seller. You don't have to sell anything (you could keep your store open but empty, or you could just keep your store closed).

Once you have a seller account you can manage two stockrooms: A and B. If you do have some sets/parts you are planning to sell and want to have an active store, you can keep those items in stockroom A, and you can keep your own personal collection in stockroom B, which is invisible to buyers, even if your shop is open.

This way you can easily manage your collection, automatically keep track of how much it is worth, and also, if you decide to sell, all you have to do is move the items from stockroom B to stockroom A, open your shop and you are done. ;)

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Tags: piece-information, organisation
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# Question
Title: How to minimize the impact of erroneous sensor readings?
A group including myself are using the Lego Mindstorm kit to design a robot that is going to compete in a school competition. However, the sensors aren't as reliable as we would like them to be, particularly the ultrasonic sensor, which is what we're using to judge how far away objects are from our robot. The problem that we face is that every so often the sensor returns a value that is just wrong: in a set of 3 datapoints for an object that is 45 units away, we'd possibly get values like 45, 45, and then 186. The erroneous values are not consistent, nor is the amount by which the error occurs. We also can't judge the probability of an erroneous value occurring. Our current algorithm takes the average of a small number (i.e. 3) of datapoints, but we've realized that if the number of datapoints is small, then the average could be distorted greatly by erroneous values. If the number of datapoints is large, then it takes a long time for the robot to get all of the sensor readings.

What do you recommend as a process to reduce the impact of erroneous sensor readings?

I'm sorry if I'm posting this question in the wrong location, but this problem seemed more closely linked to mathematics than to programming.

# Answer
> 4 votes
I have quite some experience in Lego Mindstorms and I can tell you that their ultrasonic sensor is extremely inaccurate as you described - from what I read online, the ultrasonic rays travel in a V shaped path instead of in a straight line (it causes readings not to be linear with distance). Detecting an object with a round surface makes it worse, because the ultrasonic rays end up scattering all over the place.

What we (my team and I did) tried to do was to cover up half of each of the sensor's emitting and receiving outlet hole so as to force the ultrasonic rays to travel in straight lines. We also tried taking averages, root mean squares, differentials, integrals and what not of samples instead - but both did little to solve the problem, especially when sensing across distances that are far away (\> 100 cm).

We ended up switching to one of Mindsensors' laser based distance sensors.

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Tags: programming, sensor-ultrasonic
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# Question
Title: Can I change the firmware on a Retail EV3 Intelligent brick to the Educational version?
The LEGO Mindstorms EV3 comes in both educational and retail versions. The educational version differs in bricks, sensors, a rechargable battery and datalogging capability.

I would like to know can I change the firmware on the EV Intelligent brick to supporting datalogging?

And does this mean I need to buy and install educational version of software on my PC?

# Answer
> 5 votes
There are indeed two versions of the firmware to support the two sets of capabilities of the EV3 Brick, both currently at version 1.3/1.03:

* EV3 Firmware V1.03\**H*\*.bin - The current "Home" edition.
* EV3 Firmware V1.03\**E*\*.bin - The current "Education" edition.

From what I've seen, you should be able to use either firmware on the bricks, however to get access to the data logging features you would also need to use the Education version of the software as well:

> LEGO MINDSTORMS Education EV3 Software includes:
>
> * Data logging capabilities so students can log and analyse real-time sensor values.

# Answer
> 2 votes
I'm now using Retail EV3 with Education firmware, and this magically solved all the problems with the Bluetooth connection. Apart from that, I couldn't find any other difference. So for me it works fine :)

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Tags: ev3, education
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title: EV3 Block problems?

text:
# Question
Title: EV3 Block problems?
I don't see what is wrong with the way i made my program.

It looks like this.

The idea is that in the while loop \[01\] shall the robot move forward until it see something brown.

If it see something brown it should jump to the second while loop, where it will move forward it sees something brown, and if it sees something white it should move backwards.

But for some reason it immediately goes to the second while loop, and stays only at the first for few sec.? ??

What am i doing wrong??

# Answer
> 4 votes
Nothing is halting the "02" loop. It is running forever.

The problem with the second loop is that "brown" is the default. The switch looks for "white" and anything else uses the "brown" side of the switch. I suspect you want the lower half of the switch statement to be "any color but brown". If so, the "default" button needs to be selected for the "white" switch choice.

As for the "01" loop, the content of the loop always runs a first time. If at the end of one rotation, the color sensor does not see "white" it jumps out of the loop and the program enters the "02" loop.

I'd recommend using the LCD block to write the results of color sensor measurements to the EV3 LCD. It's a basic tool for debugging.

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Tags: ev3, programming
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# Question
Title: Identify these (Technic Steering) parts?
These three parts do not have part numbers on them, but it is clear they are LEGO parts (they have LEGO printed on them). I am trying to track down the set that these belong to, or at least a part number. Any help would be appreciated.

# Answer
> 9 votes
These parts were used for steering in many Technic sets between 1988 and 2001. They are the following parts:

Here's an example of how they can be used together for steering from set 8022:

# Answer
> 1 votes
Here's a listing from bricklink for the rack for which sets it was in.

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=2791&in=S

Part numbers can be used for the other items.

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Tags: piece-information, technic, part-identification
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# Question
Title: What was the first set produced by The LEGO Group?
What was the first Lego set produced, and when was it first released?

# Answer
> 20 votes
Some of the earliest "LEGO brick" sets I could find were these three on BrickLink from 1954:

As other answers have noted, there were earlier sets than this, but they were referred to as "Automatic Binding bricks". It wasn't until 1953 that the bricks were officially renamed as "LEGO bricks" (i.e. "*LEGO Mursten*").

These sets were using precursor designs of the "modern" plastic LEGO brick without the hollow underside tube. It wasn't until 1958 that the brick design we all know and love today was created. It was officially "born" at exactly 1:58 p.m., January 28, 1958, when it was first patented.

So, if you're looking for the earliest official "LEGO bricks" using the modern stud-and-tube design, these are the sets you're looking for:

# Answer
> 11 votes
A detailed timeline of Lego's history is layed out here dating back to the initial birth of the company.

We see from this that the first Lego-like bricks was the *Kiddicraft Self-Locking Building Brick* marketed by Hilary Fisher Page in England in 1947. This was the forerunner to Lego, and in 1949, the Lego company begins production of *Automatic Binding Brick* in Denmark.

This is the *Automatic Binding Brick* set 700/3.

Here is a detailed article on the origin of the first patented Lego bricks from 1958, designed by Godtfred Kirk Christiansen, who had just taken over as Director after his father. This is the first Lego bricks as we know them today that got a unique system that improved the interlocking dramatically. This new design would become the modern, or as Godtfred called it, the “real” Lego brick. It was the beginning of Lego as we know it today.
The patent was presented at the Danish patent office at January 28th 1958. Lego considers this date to be the birthday of the Lego Brick.

Here is the first box image used for all the earliest sets from 1958.
The actual set contents were indicated on the inner tray.
This set is 700/5.

# Answer
> 5 votes
The first plastic bricks produced by TLG were in 1949, known as Automatic Binding Bricks. The bricks themselved did not have LEGO printed on them.

By 1952 the Automatic Binding Bricks sets started having the LEGO logo (the small fancy one used on TLG wooden toys) in the lower right corner as an added decal, but continued having Automatic Binding Bricks on the box top.

Then in late 1952 they added "LEGO Mursten" to the top of the box (instead of a decal), but continued with the Automatic Binding Bricks box logo.

It wasn't until 1953 that a new box design came out with just "LEGO Mursten". Since "Mursten" is the same word for building bricks in Danish, Norwegian and Swedish, as those countries came online to LEGO sales (Nov. 1953 for Norway, Mar. 1955 for Sweden) they also had LEGO Musten on the box top (although some early Norway sets had Automatic Binding Bricks on the boxes).

Then in late 1955 LEGO boxes started having new box designs with "LEGO System of Play" in the local language on the box tops. German LEGO sales started in March 1956, with Switzerland and Netherlands coming online in early 1957.

Boxes had "System i leg" for Denmark, "System i lek" for Sweden/Norway, "System im Spiel" for Germany/Austria, Systeem bij het Spel" for Netherlands, and "System im Spiel"/"System dans le jeu" for Switzerland. By the time Belgium and Portugal came online at the end of 1957, the decision was to switch to international "LEGO System". The countries already in the local languages had their boxes switch over to the international writing by 1960 (everyone else was done by 1959, but Denmark was the last holdout by 1960).

When the first bricks (2x2 and 2x4 sizes) were introduced (as Automatic Binding Bricks) in 1949, they had no LEGO markings anywhere on the bricks. By 1953 the first bricks had "LEGO" printed only on the hollow underside of the brick. In 1953 1x2 and 2x3 bricks were also introduced, only only found with the logo on the underside. In 1954 the 2x8 and 2x10 bricks were introduced, and the 4x4 corner, (shortlived) 2x12 and 2x14 bricks, and 1x1 round and square bricks were introduced in January 1955.

Then by mid 1955, the new Town Plan series of specialty parts (including 4 types of macaroni bricks, 1x6/1x8 bricks with and without names) and large LEGO plates were introduce.

The first LEGO baseplates were 10x20 size... introduced in 1950 in a 1/2 brick thickness. By 1953 the thin 10x20 was replaced by a 1 brick tall baseplate, and produced for many years.

Gary Istok (Information used in my Unofficial LEGO Sets/Parts Collectors Guide (1949-1990s), confirmed by TLG Archives in Billund.

# Answer
> 4 votes
According to Brick Fetish:

Sets of "Automatic Binding Bricks" were first produced in 1949 in Denmark. Sets included 700/1, 700/2, 700/3 and 700/4, with 700/1 being the largest of these sets and 700/4 being the smallest.

In 1950 the 700/3A (between 3 and 4 in size), 700/5 and 700/6 sets were released. The gift sets were boxes of elements hand packaged in a zig-zag pattern in a shallow box.

The bricks themselves didn't carry the LEGO branding - it wasn't until 1953 that the bricks would be called "LEGO Mursten" (danish for "LEGO Bricks").

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Tags: sets, history
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# Question
Title: Can you identify this model of a yellow truck?
It's part of a series of models I had as a kid that I want to take apart for my own kids now, and I'm looking for the original instructions.

Can you identify this one?

# Answer
> 6 votes
This model is built from set 8062-1: Universal Set with Storage Case. Inventory and building instructions are available **here**.

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Tags: technic, set-identification
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title: Older sets in The Lego Movie?

text:
# Question
Title: Older sets in The Lego Movie?
Are there any existing/hisorical complete sets (for example: buildings, vehicles, etc) featured in The Lego Movie? Sets created specifically for the movie do not count. For example, the bad cop's grandparent's house looks awfully familiar but I couldn't place whether that is an exact set that already exists, or just in the style of some of the older vacation/holiday house sets.

# Answer
> The Toa Mata from BIONICLE briefly appear in the film when Wyldstyle is talking to Emmet about the prophecy. So do Fabuland, 9448 Samurai Mech from Ninjago, 3189 Heartlake Stables from Friends, 8158 Speed Racer & Snake Oiler from Speed Racer, along with a few other themes. Some stopmotion videos created by fans on ReBrick were featured in the movie.

Brickipedia: The LEGO Movie

The car Emmet drives at the beginning of the movie is a slightly modified version of the 3177 Small Car.
> 8 votes

# Answer
Yes! Well, it depends... When you say featured, do you mean "it appears in the movie" or "it plays a central role in the movie"? If the former, many of them appear in "real life" scenes of the basement.

One of my favorite sets from my childhood was in one of the background dioramas. I got to see the complete basement movie set at LEGOLand California last week. They filled the film with old sets.
> 7 votes

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Tags: the-lego-movie
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# Question
Title: Did all the nxt 2.0 lego content vanish from the Lego website?
I keep finding links to pictures and projects that evidently used to be on an nxt content site at lego. Is all of that information just gone? A site called nxtasy also seems to have vanished. Are there any good sources for nxt project documentation any more?

# Answer
> 3 votes
There is still some NXT stuff on the LEGO website. It is just hidden a little bit. Go to the new Mindstorms website and click on downloads. Then look for the arrows at the top left of the *Download Archive* section and click the right arrow. You will find a NXT tab. Edit: The NXT downloads have been moved to the main download tab so they are easy to find now.

NXTasy has become http://www.mindboards.net.

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Tags: mindstorms, nxt
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# Question
Title: What software was used to create the LEGO Movie?
So I've just seen the LEGO Movie and I was amazed at the such intricate details of all the minifigures and sets.

I was wondering if anyone knows what software was used to create the film. Animal Logic, the studio behind the film, have said that they used Maya to model the bricks.

# Answer
The Lego Movie Complete B-ROLL (2014) footage briefly shows that the animator is using **Autodesk Softimage 2012** (at about 8:57) to move the limbs of a digital minifigure.

10 minutes in to the video we can see an animator going through frame-by-frame a partially rendered draft of a scene from the movie. The animator has the ability to draw and possibly annotate on each frame. It's not clear what software this is, it may have been created in-house by the production company.

At 11:15 an employee at what appears to be the LEGO Denmark office shows Phil Lord (co-director of the movie) a minifig from what appears to be a different piece of software used for modelling/animation.

At 12:46 we can see a very short demonstration of **LEGO Digital Designer**. This software was created before the movie, specifically for designing LEGO models, it is also free and can be downloaded from the LEGO website.
> 12 votes

# Answer
When discussing Animal Logic's involvement in the film, they state:

> Initially, Production Designer Grant Freckelton and his team utilised LEGO Digital Designer \[...\]. This allowed everyone, including the Animal Logic art department, to mock up highly accurate LEGO models from which they could calculate the required bricks and build them as subdivision surface assets.

These LDD models where then converted to an internal format that works throughout Animal Logic's pipeline, at which point the could start using their more usual tools:

> The bricks themselves were separately modeled in Maya, with asset and layout builds achieved in Maya and XSI.

A pull-quote from an FX-Guide article on the work notes:

> Animal Logic’s main toolkit relied on rigging, layout, animation and lensing in Softimage, with surfacing, lighting and rendering done in Maya, MARI and RenderMan and a custom renderer called Glimpse. Effects work was handled in Houdini.
> 8 votes

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Tags: software, the-lego-movie
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title: Need help fudging a group in 8039

text:
# Question
Title: Need help fudging a group in 8039
So, I'm building "8039 Venator-class Republic Attack Cruiser ™ Star Wars TM" and I've hit a snag.

I need help fudging the instruction from page 76 of book 1 for that set (see picture below).

I'm out of piece number 4158830 and the variant (Technic Cross-block 2x1) that is one brick shorter. I also tried the 2x2 Cross Block Fork but that splits the L-beams.

# Answer
> 5 votes
Might not be ideal, but have you tried replacing each Crossblock 2x3 with a Crossblock 90 and a Technic Lever 2M?

You lose a little bit of stability on the bottom edge with only two pin connections instead of four, but I think it'll do the job just fine. The new parts list is then: 2x Crossblock 90 Deg 2x Technic Angle Beam 4x2 90 Deg 2x Technic Lever 2M 1x Cross Axle 3M 1x Cross Axle 5M

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Tags: building, technic
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# Question
Title: How to use two NXT bricks for 3+ motors and 4+ sensors?
I need to use multiple bricks in order to use more motors and sensors. I need to read sensor values, and tell motors to move.

I've tried using bluetooth, however my attempts haven't been very successful. I know you can pre-define motors/sensors, and then set parameters using remoteGetInputValues(), and the equivalent for motors.

Whilst playing around with this, I have noticed it doesn't work inside a loop, or inside it's own function?

Does anyone know of any tricks/hints/proper instructions on how to work it out? I've tried looking everywhere for this.

The firmware is up to date, and I am programming in NXC.

# Answer
Maybe you should look into using a multiplexer to add additional sensors to an NXT brick.

The Hitechnic Sensor Multiplexer lets you connect 4 sensors using only 1 of the NXT connection.

The same thing can be done with motors. For example using the Mindsensors NXTMMX, you can add 2 additional motors per multiplexer (even better, if you daisy-chain the multiplexers together you can control more motors than you'll ever need)
> 2 votes

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Tags: nxt, mindstorms, bluetooth, nxc
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title: Battery Acid Dust Issue

text:
# Question
Title: Battery Acid Dust Issue
I was recently digging through some old boxes looking for old LEGO bricks I had as a kid. In two of the boxes I found old double A batteries that had busted (the boxes were in a building that has got hot during the summer). Well in the corners of the plastic boxes I found brown dust. I'm thinking this might be lead dioxide from the exploded batteries. I also burnt my hand accidentally touching one of the exploded batteries. Am I right in this assumption? Is there a way to clean the bricks by soaking them in water with a chemical (baking soda)?

Any advice would be appreciated I just don't won't to lose these LEGO bricks.

# Answer
It's very unlikely to be lead, smaller batteries don't use it. If the batteries were old rechargables they might contain cadmium (NiCd batteries). Most likely what you had was a disposable AA battery which will be an alkaline cell. As you'd guess, you can neutralise that with acid. But not a strong acid - you don't want to dissolve away the metal parts of the Lego battery box!

There are a few how-to guides on the web that I found, like this one and this one They all suggest either lemon juice or vinegar as the acid, and focus mostly on

1. don't touch the battery gunk with your hands (or eyes!)
2. wash it before scrubbing it as well as after
3. use something disposable to scrub it with
4. and **don't touch it with your hands**

Personally I'd put on rubber gloves, dump it into a plastic bucket full of water (always put chemicals into water, never water onto chemicals), swish it around and see whether the mess washes off. That's easy and you'll end up doing it anyway, so starting there might save you even having to find the vinegar bottle.
> 3 votes

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Tags: cleaning, battery
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title: Help identifying Lego Set from bags!

text:
# Question
Title: Help identifying Lego Set from bags!
I visited Toyrus in Paris recently and bought several lego sets for my son. Mostly, Star Wars sets. In each case, we brought the manuals and the cardboard boxes so that he could assemble them. However, we also bought some sort of car / racing set, but we forgot to bring the box and manuals. We have no idea what it is so as to find the instructions on the internet. Are the photos below enough to identify them? There are no numbers other than a reference to a 2011 set. It´s 6 small bags, and four other small bags. Not sure if the last one full of wheels is a separate set we bought just to increase the number of wheels. Any help will be truly appreciated. Thanks, Pablo

# Answer
The city people pack is probably 9348: Community Minifigure Set based on the clasic space minifig print.

The numbered bags are probably from 4635: Fun With Vehicles \- that's based on the colours and the lime green/"bright yellow/green" cap.

I think the first 2 bags are from 6118: Wheels and Tyres. This set has the same number of the small (8x) and bigger (6x) yellow wheels
> 8 votes

# Answer
The numbered bags are probably from 4635: Fun With Vehicles \- that's based on the colours and the lime green/"bright yellow/green" cap.

However even with 9348 Community Minifigure Set there's still an unidentified bag of wheels...
> 2 votes

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Tags: building, piece-information, sets, instructions
---


title: Can you identify this yellow crane?

text:
# Question
Title: Can you identify this yellow crane?
Can you identify this one?

It's part of a series of models I had as a kid that I want to take apart for my own kids now, and I'm looking for the original instructions.

# Answer
> 6 votes
Looks like it is this Universal Set with Flex System. Looks like the instructions can be had fairly cheaply.

# Answer
> 1 votes
Don't pay for instructions until you check this site: http://lego.brickinstructions.com

They have a lot of PDF files of instructions listed for free.

---
Tags: technic, set-identification
---


# Question
Title: Turn a tank a specific number of degrees
I don't have a gyro sensor so that's not a possible solution (until I purchase one). I figured I'd just do the math on this one. What I'd really like to know are:

1. The circumference of the caterpillar track that comes in the Ev3 set. (I was hoping it would be etched into it, but I didn't see anything besides 1-01 in the rubber on the inner part of the belt).
2. The circumference of the rims that come in the Ev3 set.
3. The driving "gear" for this is the rim attached to the large motor(s), there are two followers that support the belt. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only two things I should be factoring into the math are the rim driving the belt and the belt itself correct?

EDIT (answered parts):

1. If this is correct the length is 14cm.
2. If this is correct, the circumference is 3cm.

# Answer
The math you're suggesting may work for going straight forward or backward where slipping is limited. For a turn, it will not come close. Even getting the center of rotation of the turning robot will be difficult. The tracks will have to slip. A tracked robot can not turn without those tracks slipping. Differences in friction will alter the turn. More weight on the left or right, front or back of the robot will alter the turn.

Even abandoning the tracks for wheels is not guarantee that the math of how much the robot should turn will match reality. This is not to say abandon the math, just a hint that it will only give an approximation.
> 4 votes

# Answer
A 360 degree turn takes: (width of robot/circumference of wheel) turns, neglecting track thickness, assuming the tracks are at sides if the robot.

The length of track doesn't matter. Your robots non-slipping part of the track is traversing a circle of diameter=width of robot. The other parts of the track are sliding across the surface. A longer robot / track only affects the efficiency of turning not the rate.

If the surface is rough, there may be jumping and movement of the center of rotation. Calculations are good but don't be afraid to calibrate to the surface after testing.

Not sure why you are using IR sensors for turning. the ev3 motors have encoders and can be told to turn fractional rotations or by degrees.
> 2 votes

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Tags: ev3, size, wheel
---


# Question
Title: On what plane is 6912 Super Soarer based?
The set 6912, *Super Soarer*, features a yellow jet plane. My first thoughts were towards the Harrier, but it has exhausts on the tail, which the Harrier doesn't have.

On what plane, if any, is it based?

# Answer
> 6 votes
I would go for another British aircraft: Sepecat Jaguar

It's twin-engine also.

# Answer
> 2 votes
The intakes, wing shapes and overall proportions look like a Harrier Jump Jet, but the model doesn't have the landing gear or under-wing armaments.

Similar overhead view of a Harrier:

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Tags: sets, model-identification
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title: Biggest European LEGO event?

text:
# Question
Title: Biggest European LEGO event?
I was wondering if there is a big European event where new sets and custom sets are shown, and maybe deals on sets or pieces, something like an E3 for LEGO or something similar. I looked on Google but I could only find the Lego World in Netherland, but I could not determine if it is the biggest one.

Does anyone have any more information?

# Answer
The main show that Lego release new sets at every year is the Spielwarenmesse fair in Nürnberg (Nuremberg, Germany). If you watch the various forums, especially www.EuroBricks.com, you'll see excited posts like this one about Star Wars around the time of the fair. Lego also announce sets at the New York equivalent show.

Models made by fans are usually displayed at Lego fan events rather than big trade fairs. The trade fairs are about marketing and showing things off to retailers. There's a bunch of jargon you might find handy, the main terms being AFOL = adult fan of Lego, and MOC = my own creation. Both defined on this site:

What does "AFOL" mean?

What does the acronym MOC stand for?
> 6 votes

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Tags: shopping, lego-group
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# Question
Title: Why are 2/3 height bricks with studs on the side 2 studs deep?
This question is regarding the 2/3 height bricks with studs on the side. The two that I am aware of are 99206 and 87609:

If you haven't seen them before, these are functionally somewhat similar to an Erling brick used on its side. I'm curious why these bricks seem to be larger than they need to be. It seems to me that these could fit in more places and be more useful if they were 1x2 and 1x4 respectively. Something like a 1 plate shorter version of 11211 and 30414:

Does the extra plate surrounding these parts create new ways that they can be used? Was mold design a factor in creating these parts the way they are?

# Answer
> 10 votes
In the case of 87609, the piece was first used in 2010 as part of the grill/bumper assembly for vehicles that were the standard 6 studs wide. Its length would appear to be a result of its original purpose. Its width also allows for attaching two rows of detail:

---

99206 showed up first in 2012. Its design allows for a more compact construction in situations like this:

If the piece were only 1x2, it would have to attach to another part above or below it. The extension lets you attach it flush from behind.

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Tags: piece-information, piece-usage
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# Question
Title: What do the V# codes represent in the LEGO shop?
The online LEGO shop references products with a V# code at the end, like this:

What is the meaning of this code?

# Answer
I believe it's related to the instruction manual format - see the comments to this question.

So for example

* V39 may be printed on US standard letter size paper
* V29 may be printed on EU standard A4 paper
> 2 votes

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Tags: lego-store
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# Question
Title: Can I use the WeDo USB hub with normal Linux distributions?
I haven't found a lot of detail on the WeDo USB hub. Is this device usable with Linux? I found one article that indicated the OLPC XO had support for it, but it implied there was custom support added for that particular system. And this ad implies it will work with Linux.

Has anyone used this with a regular Linux distribution?

# Answer
Lego's education catalog implies that the WeDo software is required for the hub to work. It states:

> The two-port hub controls motors and sensors, transmits power and data to and from the computer, and is automatically detected by the WeDo™ Software when connected to the computer.

I found some info regarding WeDo software, the manual has this to say:

> **Q**: What is the full detailed information on the compatibility with different platforms?
>
> **A**: The WeDo™ software 1.1 is supported on Windows XP and Vista operating systems with the latest service packs. It is also supported on the Mac 10.5.xx operating system with Mac Intel processors. A minimum of 512 MB Ram is required and 300 MB of hard disc space. The WeDo software 1.2 is supported on Windows XP, Vista and Windows 7 operating systems with the latest service packs, as well as the Mac 10.5.xx and Mac 10.6.xx operating systems with Mac Intel processors.

In general, Lego software seems to be supported only on OS X and Windows XP, Vista, and 7. All of the software mentioned in the Lego catalog (Lego Mindstorm Education NXT Software) indicated support for OS X 10.4 or later, and Windows XP, Vista, and 7. Linux support was not mentioned.
> 6 votes

# Answer
You can use WeDo with MIT Scratch 1.4 according to http://info.scratch.mit.edu/WeDo, and Scratch runs on Linux- and this thread https://lists.launchpad.net/scratch/msg00269.html indicates that the Linux Scratch does work with WeDo.
> 3 votes

# Answer
I've just discover that the WEDO USB Hub just send to the motors 5V instead of 9V, so that's stopping me for doing a lot of stuff. Does anybody know how to add a separate source power and only send and read data from the USB Hub?
> 1 votes

# Answer
For what it's worth, I have recently found that the LEGO WeDo hub connection works just fine on the Raspbian distro that comes with a Raspberry Pi, but it's not working on an Ubermix (Ubuntu) distro that I put on some Dell laptops.

See my post on this at http://scratched.media.mit.edu/discussions/bugs-troubleshooting-suggestions/scratch-wedo-linux-distro-specific-issues .
> 0 votes

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Tags: wedo
---


# Question
Title: How can I make a precise one-way clutch using Technic elements?
I need a mechanism so that if a (NXT) motor rotates forward, it moves one gear, but the other stays still, but if it rotates backwards, the first gear does not move, but the second one does.

I found an example solution for one half of the problem here (I would need 2 of these), but that seems like it would take part of a rotation to pick up, and I need mine to be really precise.

I am building this for the Z-Axis/Extruder of the NXTStrap.

# Answer
Would this solve your problem? Depending on the direction of the input, only one axle will turn.
> 15 votes

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Tags: nxt, building, technic, gears, mechanical
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# Question
Title: I have a 16x16 stud clear base plate. Where is it from?
I found another grab bag treasure. I ended up with a 16x16 stud clear(ish) base plate. A quick look at bricklink gave me a *no items found* message. I'd like to know which set(s) this piece can be found in as I have grand plans in mind.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Any of these three sets

(AKA:
6162-1 A World of LEGO Mosaic 4 in 1
6163-1 A World of LEGO Mosaic 9 in 1
852676 Travel Game - Multi Game Pack 9-in-1)

Probably.

Bricklink hint: just search for a size, like "16 x 16". "3x3 plate" is fun too.

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Is there a way to draw LEGO figures using Blender?
I have some *basic* experience in Blender. Is there any way to insert pre-drawn LEGO pieces into Blender?

# Answer
> 11 votes
First note that this question is a possible duplicate of Do any programs exist that allow you to build your own LEGO manuals? With that, here is the answer:

1. (optional) Create a model in LEGO digital designer or LDraw and export it as a LDraw (\*.ldr) file.
2. Install LeoCAD, and either open the model that you made in LDD/LDraw (recommended) or create your model directly in LeoCAD.
3. Export your model in LeoCAD as a 3D studio (\*.3ds) file and import that in Bender.

I learned this technique from this very site less than a week ago and have already tried it out. So far, it works great and has given me loads of ideas.

Edit: The Linux version of LeoCAD currently does not export to the \*.3ds file format, so you can not set up a pipeline that way; I know this from experience.

# Answer
> 2 votes
For a general introduction to Lego characters (humanoid figures) modeled directly in Blender you might like to view http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWfS82EOa4A&list=EC3F4C5FF0451A92D9 which is a tutorial on modeling a Lego man. I have just begun to analyse this tutorial to see if I can make an expanded PDF version that will incorporate the correct proportions for this figure but when I will complete this task and if I will publish it depends on too many factors to predict.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I would start to model the lego-head. It is pretty simple, because u can use only one cylinder and then extrude/move and scale faces.

Here is a nice tutorial with an attached blend file.

http://infofreund.de/modelling-lego-head-blender/

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Tags: software, cad
---


title: Are there any LEGO movie/game posters?

text:
# Question
Title: Are there any LEGO movie/game posters?
I'm trying to find some posters for my childrens room and everytime I find something on EBay etc .. they are all A4 or A3 :(

I'm guessing it's a simple process as getting a nice quality version image and paying a Copy/Printing shop to print one in A2 or A1.

Does anyone know of any links to Lego movie posters that are in a quality that is acceptable for such a high print?

Or links to shops already selling em?

Sample images:

Clones Wars, Indiana Jones, Harry Potter, BatMan, LOTR.

As this is for personal use (sigh - I can't proove that unfortunatley :( ) that I shouldn't have any issues with copyright etc?

Appologies: for not having enough rep to create valid/accurate tags.

# Answer
> 3 votes
If you subscribe to the Lego Club (availability depends on your location) you will receive the official Lego Magazine and often a free poster is included. The March/April 2014 edition contained a reversible poster with the Lego City theme on one side and the Disney Princess theme on the other side.

Occasionally, you may receive promotional Lego posters with some purchases at the Lego Shops (or online shop). Brickset lists a few of these here.

Bricklinks is place where you could purchase posters that are no more available from Lego. Here is a list of all posters on Bricklink.

# Answer
> 2 votes
My son has a Lego Movie poster on his wall that he got in the "Mega" magazine a few weeks ago. I *think* it's A2 sized. We're in the UK though (I don't know where you're located) but I'd recommend looking at any magazines in shops to see what they include - some of them are a little expensive for what they are, but they usually bulk them out with free "toys" too.

In addition: Veynom has made a great suggestion, we subscribed my son to the Lego Club and he's had a few posters in the free magazines that come through the post (apologies that I can't upvote the post, I've just started in the Lego site and need 15 rep first).

# Answer
> 1 votes
Besides posters, another thing you might consider is cloth display-banners. If you live close to a LEGO store or LEGO retailer who uses these, often all you have to do is ask for them when they go out of season. Here is an article featuring many of these beautiful banners. They are really pieces of art and they are large too: http://thebrickblogger.com/2013/09/lego-display-banners/

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Tags: shopping, accessories
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title: EV3 IR Beacon/Remote Programmability

text:
# Question
Title: EV3 IR Beacon/Remote Programmability
Can the EV3 IR Beacon/Remote be programmed to emit other IR signals, like for triggering a camera?

I'd like to use the Mindstorms EV3 kit for building a hyperlapse photography rover where it moves, waits X seconds, triggers the camera, then repeats.

# Answer
No, the EV3 IR remote (which uses the same protocol as Power Functions remote) is not programmable. The simplest way of doing your timelapse photography is to press the button of your camera remote with a cam on an EV3 motor...
> 0 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, ev3
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title: Link 1 x 6 with Stoppers Part 2739b

text:
# Question
Title: Link 1 x 6 with Stoppers Part 2739b
Will Link 1 X 6 connect to Liftarm 2 Axle Holes and Pin / Crank (Part 33299)? The Link will be attached to a coke can, that needs to drive a crankshaft.

2739b from Peeron

33299 from Peeron

# Answer
> 1 votes
The half pins on the ends of the lift arms will fit into the round holes of the steering link, yes, but they will obviously have full rotation within that - it's not a "locking" connection.

The idea with the link is to lock a pair of those arms together so that they pivot in unison.

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Tags: building
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title: Robot that searches for lights

text:
# Question
Title: Robot that searches for lights
I use Lego Mindstorms NXT 2.0. I want to schedule my robot to move to where there is light αnd then when it finds it (a large amount of light, for example 80%) to stop and move another motor for 30 degrees. Then stay still for 10 seconds and after that to search for another light.

Can you help me please?

I use

port B: right motor

port C: left motor

port A: the degrees motor

port 3: a light sensor

# Answer
> 1 votes
```
In pseudocode:

LoopBlock (forever)
    MoveBlock (B and C motors, 75% power, forward, forever)
    -- unclear here, probably want to head for brighter light
    -- instead, just wait for 80%
    If LightSensorBlock (port 3, greater than, threshold 80%) Then
         MoveBlock (B and C motors, stop)
         WaitForBlock (time, 10 seconds)
    End If
End Loop

```

# Answer
> 0 votes
```
#pragma config(Sensor, S3,     lightSensor,         sensorLightActive)
//*!!Code automatically generated by 'ROBOTC' configuration wizard               !!*//

task main()
{
   wait1Msec(50);                        // The program waits 50 milliseconds to initialize the light sensor.

   while(true)                           // Infinite loop
   {
      if(SensorValue(lightSensor) < 45)  // If the Light Sensor reads a value less than 45:
      {
        motor[motorB] = 0;                  // Motor B is run at a 0 power level.
        motor[motorC] = 30;                  // Motor C is run at a 30 power level.
      }
      else                               // If the Light Sensor reads a value greater than or equal to 45:
      {
        motor[motorB] = 50;                  // Motor B is run at a 50 power level.
        motor[motorC] = 50;                  // Motor C is run at a 50 power level.
        while (SensorValue(lightSensor) >80) // If the Light Sensor reads a value MORE than 80:

{

  motor[motorC] = 0;

  motor[motorB] = 0;
  motor[motorA] = 10;

}

      }
   }
}

```

Finally I got it done!!!!

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Tags: nxt, mindstorms
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# Question
Title: How can I make product suggestions to TLG?
I'm sure lots of is have had ideas for products, parts, sets, themes or services that we'd like LEGO to produce. What are the best ways of proposing them to TLG, and of persuading them to take on our ideas?

The options of which I am already aware:

1. For **themes** and **individual sets**, you can make a proposal at ideas.lego.com/, and if you get enough votes and TLG think your idea has sufficient commercial merit then it might be made into a set.
2. You could try to get with TLG and if you manage it, you might be able to influence them from within.

Is there anything else we can do?

# Answer
> 2 votes
There is the LEGO Ambassador program too: http://aboutus.lego.com/en-us/lego-group/programs-and-visits/lego-ambassador

> **The mission of the LEGO Ambassadors is to** work together with the LEGO Group in all areas which concern the worldwide LEGO community and **be the voice of their respective LEGO User Group towards the LEGO Group.**

This means you should contact a LEGO User Group (preferably one in your area) and try to raise your suggestion to the group's Ambassador.

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Tags: lego-group
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title: What was wrong with monorails?

text:
# Question
Title: What was wrong with monorails?
From this answer:

> Then there's the whole problem of parts which are simply not in production any longer, and for which the cost of reproducing them would offset the potential benefits of reissuing sets. (In other words, don't expect monorails to be reissued ever).

And this comment:

> The cost for producing an old element again is presumably lower than the cost to develop a new element altogether, as long as the molds still exist (monorail parts molds are rumoured to have been destroyed, for example)

I'm getting the impression from these comments that there were issues with the monorail sets. What problems did they have? Were they too expensive to produce? Why would LEGO destroy their part molds? Why wouldn't they re-issue monorail sets?

# Answer
For the molds: An injection mold is made for a specific injection molding machine. I very much doubt Lego is still using the same machines as they did 20 years ago. So to keep the molds, they would have to keep the old machines, including the service teams and infrastructure.

Also, machine parts are rarely made out of stainless steel, some old Lego ones clearly weren't. Stainless steel is just too bad at conducting heat, which is needed in an injection molding machine. In order to keep the molds for 20 years, they would have to keep them in shape, which means additional effort.

With regard to play value, and here it is becoming subjective, the monorail never added up. Monorail trains are only 4 wide structurally, while trains are 6 wide. Making monorail 6 wide would end up in a very unstable situation when manipulating the inside / load whatever. A robust, universal toy, they weren't.
> 8 votes

# Answer
Since I'm responsible for both the answer and comment you point to, I don't have much more to say, although there is one capital element I feel I omitted: motors.

Track parts being just plastic, they wouldn't actually be that much of an issue to produce again. Maybe LEGO would need to make or even redesign some new molds, but if they felt there was a demand for it, that's probably not going to be the biggest issue.

However, motors and articulated bogies may be more of a problem, as they rely on non-plastic parts which may even be outsourced. Of course, this is by no means authoritative, but LEGO would have to come up with new motors, and presumably have them fit the newer PF system.

This is not impossible, and considering the PF battery box is only higher than the old 9V one, that wouldn't be much of an issue either.

Edit:

Someone asked a LEGO representative at an event whether monorail would come back, and his answer was a quite clear "no plans to do so at the moment", citing difference in perception about it between adults and child.s Basically, only some adult fans want monorail, kids don't, so it would make little commercial sense to produce monorail again right now.

So technically, there would be some high costs, but no real impossibility. As far as I know, the old system was quite stable as well, so that's not an issue either. But what may be stopping LEGO is whether they feel it would sell or not - they aren't in the toy business to make losses after all. So presumably their first monorail sets didn't sell too well, or not enough regarding to their cost.

But in all honesty, we may probably never really know. LEGO employees will basically always answer "monorail is not coming back", but even they have only a limited vison of the future (and they can't tell about it anyway).

You may want to support some monorail projects on CUUSOO \- who knows.
> 2 votes

# Answer
To repair and keep a Lego monorail system immortal - create Autocad files for parts. Translate each autocad file into a 3D printer file so you can re-create each part as they wear out. Later this year Staples will have 3d printers available along side the photocopier... so you won't need to buy a 3d printer to fix your monorail system.

For the electrical system, new components need to specs - mechanical dimension and electrical characteristics so they when they break they can be repaired to spec or replaced.
> 0 votes

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Tags: history, monorail
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title: Installing Linux on my NXT

text:
# Question
Title: Installing Linux on my NXT
I have an old NXT laying around and I want to set it up with my printer so I can connect it to the cloud. In order to do this I need to install Linux on the NXT and connect the NXT's USB port to the OS. How can I do this?

# Answer
> 3 votes
There is no Linux firmware for the NXT. The NXT has very limited resources, so running Linux is probably not a possibility.

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Tags: mindstorms, nxt
---


# Question
Title: How to use printed bricks from set 850425 into LDD?
I would like to know if it is possible to use the printed tiles (those with letters) from the 850425 set into the Lego Digital Designer (LDD)?

And if it is possible, the next question is "how" of course. :)

# Answer
No. It is not possible to add printed tiles in LDD. The closest you can get is just putting plates into the design and adding stickers.
> 6 votes

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Tags: ldd
---


# Question
Title: Going to Legoland Denmark with my family, what should I do/get?
Hello fellow LEGO lovers! I know this question is not entirely what this site is for but I figured I'd ask because I want to hear what you have to say.

I have been wanting to go to the original Denmark Legoland for 40 years and I finally have my chance. This August I will be going to Copenhagen for a few weeks with my family (kids 7 & 4) and will be spending several days at Legoland.

My questions for you are:

1. What activities and exhibits are unique to this Legoland that I should be sure of seeing? Obviously every Legoland's features are different but since this will likely be the only time I ever go there, I want to focus on what I know I can get nowhere else.
2. I will likely be bringing an extra bag just to fill with LEGO. Are there sets, parts, or other LEGO related items for sale there and nowhere else? I'd consider buying things in areas I don't normally focus on if its the only place I can get them. What about pricing, is it better there because its closer to their Denmark factory?

Thanks everyone!

# Answer
Sorry to disappoint you sir.

But first of all LEGOLAND in Denmark is about 3 hour drive from Copenhagen, I am from Denmark and I would say that the Danish LEGOLAND is not that great, they do not have any really special stuff that you cannot get anywhere else, in fact when I was in Florida LEGOLAND I found that they had a lot more unique stuff then the Danish one.

They do have a website for the danish LEGOLAND http://www.legoland.dk/en/Explore/

The best things I like about the Danish LEGOLAND and the thing I would advise one to look at in there are:

1. Their models, they have made some beautiful models of different stuff in there only made out of LEGO.
2. Their workshop, they have a nice workshop where they show young children what you are able to do with LEGO Mindstorms and help them make some small programs.
3. See if you can be there while they have one of their events.

Good luck and have a nice vacation :)
> 2 votes

# Answer
Another important point to note about all of the Parks shops:

Whilst the on site are not actually LEGO Store shops - they are (albeit usually well stocked) franchise shops - as such they typically only carry general availability and "Hard to find" LEGO Sets and merchandise - LEGO Store and Shop@Home "Exclusive" items are not available through these stores.

Also your LEGO VIP Card (if you have one) will not be usable in them.
> 2 votes

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Tags: shopping, legoland
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# Question
Title: Best online community for Lego Builders?
It seems like different people use different online communities to share Lego-related things, but is there one that's just the best? I suppose I am asking a subjective question, but what I'm looking for is:

1. Ability to easily share photos
2. Ability for others to easily comment about the photo (ideally *on* the photo)
3. Ability to form sub-groups within community (eg, "My Family," "SoCal Builders," etc)
4. Easy to find and follow fellow builders

I know Flickr *used* to allow commenting on photos, but it's such a generic photo-sharing place that unless you know who to follow, it's hard to find new/expert builders...

# Answer
> 2 votes
I would still recommend Flickr as the number one place. It allows everything you mentioned, and the most important thing is that's where most LEGO fans and all the best LEGO builders hang out. It is by far the best community. Just join some of the main LEGO related groups and you will quickly find people to follow.

Also, follow the Brothers Brick blog. Pretty much everything they feature is from Flickr, and they focus on the best MOCs. This is another way to find great builders to follow.

There is also MOCPages, and there are some great gems there, but the site is mainly full of little kids. AFOLs and serious builders hang out on Flickr. It may not be all LEGO related, however once you become part of the LEGO related groups, you will have some much to do, so much to see, and so many people to interact with, you won't even notice that Flickr is not all about LEGO...(c:

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Tags: lego-group
---


title: Robot that builds a copy of itself

text:
# Question
Title: Robot that builds a copy of itself
I'd like to try building a robot that can build a copy of itself. Basically, I guess that involves:

* having some means of navigating around (i.e. wheels, tracks, something to move on)
* having some manipulator, capable of taking parts and arranging them together

What would be the standard set of problems I'll encounter if I'll try to do it?

For example, I already understand that CPU and array of sensors provided with NXT or EV3 is, well, very-very basic by todays standards to say at the very least, so probably it can't be helped to replace it with some more advanced controlling unit, for example, Arduino-based and a full-blown camera + Kinect. What else? For example, I'm a bit hesitating about:

* Is it possible to navigate a robot on wheels/tracks with decent precision, enough to be able to do such building work?
* Is it possible to construct a manipulator (i.e. an arm with some degrees of freedom) that would be able to put together basic Lego/Technics joints? Would it be precise enough?
* Should I use motors / pneumatics for the arm? Pros/cons of both of these types?
* If I'll use standard Mindstorms motors for the arm, what's the typical maximum weight it can handle?
* If standard Technics/Mindstorms parts won't be good enough, maybe some 3rd party parts (such as Matrix Robotics) parts will do?
* What are the good examples of minimalistic Technic/Mindstorms robots / arms, easy to assemble?

And, the main question of them all — why hasn't anyone done that yet? I've found people building CNC 3D mills, guys who assemble lego models by hand *instead* of 3D printing, a very simple lego "assembly" factory model and a very basic lego 3D scanner & "printer".

# Answer
> 7 votes
This seems pretty much bordering on the impossible, given the current state of (LEGO) engineering capabilities. What you are describing is a Von Neumann Machine and as far as I know nobody succeeded in creating one, not just in LEGO but in general.

The problems you'd have to overcome:

* The robot must be capable to exert sufficient force to overcome the clutch power of the LEGO bricks. This could be done with a suitable set of gears. However the gears themselves eat up a lot of the motor's force due to friction. Pneumatics is absolutely out of the question for these parts.
* The robot must be capable of positioning the LEGO pieces with sufficient accuracy. I have no hard data available on the precision of the various LEGO actuators (motors, pneumatics, linear actuators, what else?) but in my previous LEGO experience electric motors can be tricky to program to operate with enough precision, but it can be done with enough testing and refining iterations for a given physical design. Again, gearing down would in theory help a lot, but all gears have some inaccuracy. LEGO gears are not among the most precise ones. You could easily test this by linking about a dozen cogwheels together in a chain, holding one end tight and testing how much can the other end of the chain rotate. Pneumatics are also out here, you can't get them to stop reliably anywhere but the end positions.
* The robot must be capable of picking up, holding and placing every type of LEGO piece it is constructed from. This means either an universal actuator that itself can handle every element or more than one actuator, each specialized for a subset of all elements. The actuator(s) should also be capable of orienting the pieces in 3D space, this requires at least 6 degrees of freedom
* The robot must be capable of finding and distinguishing between different pieces. The hardest version would have the robot sift through a bin full of pieces, but you could "cheat" by letting it use pre-sorted, pre-positioned stacks or queues of individual piece types. Even that would bring many problems, the robot must know which element is where, how high/far is the current part in each stack/queue, etc.
* In the strict sense the robot should transmit it's program to the newly built robot. I'm not familiar with the current lineup of programmable bricks to state confidently whether it is possible at all for a LEGO brick to program another, but even if it's possible it would require some serious programming.

In your examples you can see how complicated, huge and slow can these creations can become. But you can also see how highly does the LEGO community think of these creations, each of which does only a small fraction of your proposed project. I'm not saying that it's impossible, but I don't think it would be an understatement to say that this would be the single biggest achievement in the world of LEGO and in general engineering too.

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Tags: mindstorms, motor, robotic, wheel
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