# Question
Title: What is this set with tan plates and dark red and dark tan tiles?
What set does this belong to? The two top tan plates slide out.

# Answer
It looks like it includes only parts from Ninjago set 2507 Fire Temple, however it appears to have been changed around a bit.
> 5 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: What set which involves building a dump truck has the most pieces?
I'm trying to recall a bricks set I used more than a decade ago which I remember needing an inordinate amount of pieces to build a dump truck or similar piece of construction equipment. I haven't been able to find such a set on my own so hopefully I can get some help here. Frankly, I'm not sure if it's even a LEGO set or different brand.

While don't remember much about it, it's still important to create a post that has a definitive answer so I'll settle for identifying which LEGO set has the most pieces and involves building a dump truck.

# Answer
> 5 votes
There's a few candidates.

At minifig scale we've got 4202-1 "Mining Truck" modeled after a haul truck, with 264 parts:

On the Technic side, there's 42114-1 "6x6 Volvo Articulated Trailer" with 2193 parts (as pointed out by @MatthewJensen):

But if your criteria is "*a set which involves a dump truck*", then the answer (for minifig scale) is probably 60188-1 "Mining Experts Site" with 857 parts, albeit with a rather simplistic truck...

Or, as user @SanderDeDycker points out, technic set 42055-1 "Bucket Wheel Excavator" with 3929 parts and a relatively tiny dumper:

Looking at the list of construction sets ordered by descending number of parts did help in choosing these.

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Tags: set-identification, sets
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# Question
Title: EV3 Home Shuts down after 2 min. (lights orange, and 3 Icons Triangle, Gage, Manual)
I just purchased a second hand LEGO Mindstorms Home EV3. The brick turns on, allows firmware update, etc. However, after about 2 minutes the unit makes a noise, LED's turn red, and 3 icons appear.

1. Triangle with exclamation point
2. Gage with arrow pointing to the right (I assume overheat?)
3. Manual with exclamation point

Question: does anyone know what this error message indicates?

There appears to be some battery corrosion as if it was stored and the batteries leaked. Additionally Ports 1 and 2 indicate "Error" or "Unknown" and sometimes they think a Sound DB sensor is plugged in even though nothing is plugged in.

# Answer
> 5 votes
There is a full map of the EV3 user interface here.

Although the popup in the photo is in the diagram, it is not labeled. So we have to go digging around the EV3 source code to find out what it means. The icons can be found in this bitmap. The icons are mapped to names here. Using this information, we can deduce that from left to right, the icons are `WARNSIGN`, `WARN_POWER` and `TO_MANUAL`. Further search of the code reveals two conditions where all 3 of these icons appear together. `WARNING_TEMP` and `WARNING_CURRENT`.

So either the battery has high temperature or the brick is using too much current. Given the statements about the malfunctioning input ports and the battery leakage damage, I would suspect that the battery leakage has cause some sort of short circuit that is causing high current usage. You could try removing the cover and cleaning up the damage with isopropyl alcohol. Although to get to the back side of the circuit board, you have to desolder the battery terminals.

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms, repair
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# Question
Title: Bag 2, 2011 135149 - 2 minifig heads, lime, brown, greys
Bag 2 has 2 minifigure heads, one black male and one tan female. Gray male hair and black male hair.

# Answer
> 5 votes
70912-1 Arkham Asylum

I based it on Lime Tile 1 x 6, Dark Bluish Gray Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Bar Handle on Side - Closed Ends, Tan Plate, Round 2 x 2 with Rounded Bottom (Boat Stud).

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Looking for the name of this really tiny 1x2 lego part. In microbuilds it is used as wheels, but I think it may officially be an axle
It's the black piece that I'm looking for the name or number of. Thank you in advance to anyone with information on this

# Answer
BrickLink calls it 2496 Wheel Skateboard / Trolley
> 13 votes

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Tags: part-identification, wheel, micro-scale
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# Question
Title: Does anybody know what this is? bag 3, black, light grey, red Technic bricks, large gold wheels
All I know is that it’s from 2011 bag 3 and I found number 135149 on it..

# Answer
76012-1 Batman: The Riddler Chase

Based on Red Technic, Brick 1 x 2 with Holes with Light Bluish Gray Plate, Modified 2 x 2 with Pin on Bottom - only 5 sets. And one of them looked *just* right, so I grabbed the color and wheel code from that one. And it fit!
> 5 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Identify this LEGO set: greys with two dishes
We’ve been given a box of LEGO and are trying to determine which set these might be from (if they are a set) to try and rebuild, grateful for any help. Looking for identifiers on the pieces but not seen anything yet so help appreciated.

# Answer
> 7 votes
These part are from:

7675: AT-TE Walker

Keyparts:

in Light Bluish Gray

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: What piece is this? It's a hard one, and a very small one. It's 2x1 I believe, and it could possibly be an accessory
This is the piece I'm looking for, because I'd like to build this microscale train myself. It may very well be the handles of two levers glued to the rest of the train, but I really don't want to believe whomever made this resorted to gluing their Legos. If anyone knows it's name or number I'd be quite grateful for any help.

Extra: If anyone knows the name or number of whatever small pieces are used for the other 3 wheels on the train, I also need to find out what those ones are. Thank you.

# Answer
> 17 votes
You are partially correct, it is made using two of Antenna Small Lever
You can relax, they are not glued, but slotted into the grooves of the 1 x 2 Tile with grille
The other wheels of the train are made using Minifigure Roller Skate

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Tags: part-identification, trains, micro-scale
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# Question
Title: Can all LEGO Loco characters be recreated in real life?
The 1998 game LEGO Loco features a plethora of Minifigs that roam around the city:

Can all these characters be recreated with real minifig parts?

# Answer
> 27 votes
Only five characters can be built *exactly* (denoted by ✅). Another 11 can be made quite closely (). The other 12 I believe are partially or entirely made up (❌).

I tried to make sure all parts were available at the time of the game, exceptions are stated.

The image of each part is also a link to Bricklink.

# Row 1

## ❌ Figure 1 - Polka Dot Lady

I initially thought the hair looked like Hair Male with some extra bits printed on the face, even though that part does not exist in red. User Steve Bennett pointed out, and I agree now, that those extra parts do appear to be part of the hair piece.
This hair piece looks like a similar style, but released after the game.
I could not find a torso that matches, but I found a kind-of similar one.

or

## ❌ Figure 2

The hair appears to be white, but it does not exist. I could not find a torso that matches, it looks like a variation of the banker's jacket.

It looks like he's holding a briefcase.

## Figure 3 - Girl

The hair might not be an exact match, but it's the only hair with pigtails that existed at the time of the game. The developers might have also taken some creative liberties.
I'm also tempted to think it could just be Hair Male again with pigtails added.
It appears there are some very faint glasses, but I couldn't find any such face.
There is a more modern hair piece that could work too.
As user Darrel Hoffman pointed out, there are shorter legs available. However, these do not articulate and are a slightly different shade of pink to the other pinks.

or (+ pigtails) or     or

## Figure 4 - Lee (Skateboarder)

Lee's torso doesn't seem to match any exactly, but two match closely. It seems that Lego only begun producing skateboards in 2003, but included one anyway. (yellow wheels don't exist)

or

## Figure 5 - Construction Lady

The hat does not exist in green.

## ✅ Figure 6 - Eamon (Skeleton)

Just a regular skeleton.

## Figure 7 - Police Officer

No hat exists with that pattern.

# Row 2

## ✅ Figure 8

Swap black hands for yellow. (Note other small differences in the torso)

## ✅ Figure 9 - Boy

As user Darrel Hoffman pointed out, there are shorter legs available. The medium ones articulate, but the short ones are also available in pink for the girl (#3).

or  or

## ❌ Figure 10 - Milkman

Surprisingly, I couldn't find this torso.

Milk bottles don't exist, but could be simulated with

x 2

## ❌ Figure 11 - Grandma

I couldn't find hair that match, nor a female head with grey eyebrows. It could just be Hair Male with buns.
The torso has yellow arms, instead of pink. The hips are also pink, not light grey.

## ❌ Figure 12 - Big Brain Scientist

This oversized head does not exist. I couldn't find a matching face either.

## ❌ Figure 13

The hair has the same options as #3. I couldn't find the head or torso. I suspect the head is made up since it has a nose, which is not something Lego does for standard minifigures (#9's face is one such exception).
Lego does definitely not add a "contour" to its torsos either. This torso also looks like an extreme variation of the banker's jacket.

or (+ pigtails) or

## ❌ Figure 14 - Sid Vacant?

This one also appears entirely made up. However, Lego did create a mohawk piece after the game was developed. (as pointed out by Fredric Shope in a comment)
This torso is the closest I could find, just add the bare yellow arms.

# Row 3

## Figure 15 - Necklace Lady

The same face as #13 (not winking, though).

## Figure 16 - Angry Banker

I believe the face is has just been given the angry expression in this rendering. Note that the torso appears dark grey, and the green seems to have been removed.

## Figure 17 - Walking Stick Man

It looks like he has a walking stick, which doesn't exist.

## ❌ Figure 18 - *Hillbilly*

This guy is entirely made up.

## ✅ Figure 19 - Dr. Cyber?

This is almost Dr Cyber from Time Cruisers, but with grey hair.

## Figure 20

Similar to the banker, the face has been made angry.

## ❌ Figure 21

This torso also looks like a non-existent variation of the banker's jacket.

# Row 4

## ✅ Figure 22 - Police Officer

I don't think his head exists, but it could be based on this.

## ❌ Figure 23

This torso looks like yet another non-existent variation of the banker's jacket, but I've added a similar one I found.

## ❌ Figure 24 - Pop Star

His head and torso are almost certainly made up, but other options added.

or   or  or

## ❌ Figure 25

The same face and torso (different colour) as #13.

## Figure 26 - Intelligent Games employee?

The hat does not exist in any grey/silver colours, but could possibly be black. I didn't find the torso.

## Figure 27 - Mechanic

Same head as #22.

No wrench like this exists, but this one existed when the game was made.

And this one came after.

## Figure 28 - Sad

Same face as #13, #15, and #25.

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Tags: minifigures, video-games
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# Question
Title: LEGO sealed Bag 3 number 404R8 - lots of light greys
I have a sealed LEGO bag number 3. It has a lot of common gray pieces and tan pieces. Any help with where the pieces go to.

# Answer
> 4 votes
I think it's 75210-1 Moloch's Landspeeder

Based on

* Light Bluish Gray Projectile Launcher Part, Rapid Shooter Trigger
* Light Bluish Gray Technic, Disk 3 x 3
* Tan Brick, Modified 1 x 4 with Studs on Side

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Accessing an EV3 brick on computer without MINDSTORMS Home
I am trying to hack my EV3, and I know I can make it execute commands I send via USB thanks to the communication developer kit.

When I connect it via USB, it is only visible by the MINSTORMS Home app and the `system report` (I am on Mac).

When I try to list serial ports, with for example `ls /dev/tty.*`, the EV3 doesn't show, which means I can't connect to it.

However, if their app does it, then there is a way around. Has anyone encountered this before, or does anyone know how their app does it?

# Answer
> 3 votes
The Bluetooth connection appears as a serial port, but USB does not. Instead USB on the EV3 appears as an HID device. So you will need a library that provides low-level (raw) access to HID devices.

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Tags: ev3, programming, compatibility
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# Question
Title: Which original LEGO videogames had sets based on them?
Which original LEGO videogames have related sets that were either included with the game or were introduced alongside it?

# Answer
For this question I will be listing all original LEGO games that were **not** based on an existing franchise or theme. This means games like LEGO Loco and Rock Raiders are included, but Bionicle and LEGO Marvel Super Heroes aren't. As it turns out, only **nine** games had original sets or themes.

I've assembled this list by going through every LEGO game, and then comparing that against the sets released in the same year the game was released.

All images link to their respective bricklink pages.

If I miss something, feel free to correct me.

# LEGO Island (1997)

The US release included polybag set 2181 with a minifig of Infomaniac, the character that helps the player through the game.

# LEGO Loco (1998)

Certain versions of the original release include set 2585: "Track Buggy with Station Master and Cool Kid". Both minifigs are characters in the game.

# LEGO Chess (1998)

This game included set 2586: "The Crazy LEGO King". Interestingly enough, it took LEGO another seven years to release their first full chess set, set 851499, but they never released a board featuring any of the characters from the videogame.

# LEGO Rock Raiders (1999)

LEGO Rock Raiders introduced the Rock Raiders theme which ran from June 1999 to December 2000. It had a total of sixteen sets.

# LEGO Stunt Rally (2000)

Several sets came out featuring Stunt Rally characters and cars, but for some reason LEGO called the theme just "Race". The later Racers theme also had a few sets that featured minifigs from Stunt Rally.

# LEGO Island 2 (2001)

The PC release of Island 2 included set 3925; a keychain of the brickster.

# LEGO Racers 2 (2001)

The release of Racers 2 kicked off the Racers theme that ran from 2001 all the way to 2012. The first subtheme of Racers was Xalax, which were featured in the videogame.

# LEGO Island Xtreme Stunts (2002)

Island Xtreme Stunts had its own theme with a total of 13 sets. Several of the sets feature Pepper and the Brickster, which both also appeared in Island 1 & 2.

# LEGO City Undercover (2013)

While based on the city theme, set 60007 "High Speed Chase" was released after the game and features the game's main character; Chase McCain.

---

## Footnotes:

* LEGO Friends, which released in 1998, is unrelated to the Friends theme that launched in 2012.
> 5 votes

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Tags: video-games
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# Question
Title: Brick ID on the Mega Bloks - round building in 2 parts with door and window
please help with ID on the following parts. Would like to know set and eventually instructions. The Door has AM17450 on it and looks like Pego or something similar Copyright inside on yellow.

Would make a 5 year old very happy. Many thanks in advance.

# Answer
It looks like Papa Smurf's House, but there may be many houses in that line. Do you have anything else from that set that could narrow it down?
> 3 votes

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: Can LDD or Studio calculate the weight of your model?
I have made a model of mine in LDD, and I want to know its weight. Is there any feature in LDD that can calculate the estimated weight of your model? If not, is it available in other software like Studio? I really appreciate any help you can provide.

# Answer
> 13 votes
Stud.io has that functionality, in the main menu select "Model", and then "Model information", select in the dialog the second tab "Physical information":

# Answer
> 2 votes
Step 1: Export your LDD model to a BrickLink wishlist.

Step 2: Move items from the bricklink wishlist to shopping cart(s) (i.e. find sellers).

Step 3: See the added weight of your BrickLink shopping carts.

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Tags: ldd, bricklink-studio, weight
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# Question
Title: Can you help me identify this LEGO, knex type set? bag with black, grey, red, yellow and light brown
I got this in a pile of stuff I won at an auction. It says LEGO 2017 and says it’s bag 1, 649R1 and the QR code gives the number 6172089. They seem to be mostly knex pieces. There is an interesting grey square like the base of some type of vehicle and some yellow spring pieces that are interesting.

\[

# Answer
> 6 votes
This type of Lego is called Technic.

Based on the parts I can see, it looks to be bag #1 of McLaren Formula 1 Team 2022 Race Car.

I found this by searching for sets including both Technic Engine Cylinder, and Technic Wishbone Suspension Arm, which turned two results. Only the McLaren had the other parts in the bag.

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification
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# Question
Title: Parts with no part number how is it identified? (need help, but for future too)
So, the white piece has identification, but the front cover does not. How are these identified? It's from an old space set from the 90's. I have tons of non typical parts that seem to have no identification. It **does** have some numbers on it - 1-02 what is that referencing? I know this was from a few sets, probably

# Answer
The box is part 4345 (or a variant). On BrickLink, that gives **This Door, Frame fits with the following Door:**. And those parts are 4346. But you want one with a pattern on it, so the BrickLink search you need is 4346p\*. There's only 60 of them, and one looks right: 4346pb05 Container, Box 2 x 2 x 2 Door with Slot with Red and Yellow Controls Pattern

As for "1-02 what is that referencing" it is almost definitely a way for Lego to track which part of which mold made that part, so that if any are reported as mis-formed, they can track it down more easily.
> 8 votes

# Answer
These parts are Tile 1 x 2 with Groove with Red and Yellow Controls and Two White Stripes on Left Pattern,

Note the similarity to this part (below). You can see the left side is different.

Container, Box 2 x 2 x 2 Door with Slot with Red and Yellow Controls Pattern, attached to Container, Box 2 x 2 x 2

As for finding pieces yourself, I find the Bricklink search to be most useful. Obviously as you become more familiar it will be easier. Searching by colour is usually a good way to start.

To find your parts I searched "white tile 1 x 2 pattern red yellow" and "black container door"
> 7 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: How many Harry Potter 20th Anniversary sets are there?
I have 3 of the Harry Potter 20th Anniversary sets (76386, 76388 & 76389) which include gold minifigs (I have Harry, Ron & Voldemort), and a number of (depends on which set) purple 2x2 tiles labelled as "Wizard Cards" of which I have 9 of 16.

This got me thinking; how many 20th anniversary Harry Potter sets are there? Do we have a timeline published by Lego of all the sets to be labelled as 20th anniversary, and which will include gold minifigs and wizard cards? And do we know which gold minifigs are out there/coming in future sets?

# Answer
> 7 votes
Brickset is very useful in this kind of questions since their catalog items have tags.

You can find details you are looking for by checking items marked with following tags:

And, obviously, LEGO doesn't disclose plans for upcoming sets unless they are about to be released.

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Tags: set-database, harry-potter
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# Question
Title: software to record my own bank of LEGO pieces?
Is there any PC software that can keep track of my own pieces?

I know sites like Rebrickable and BrickLink are probably good enough, but they require VPN to access in China.

Studio can build LEGO constructions virtually, but it does not look like it can be easily used as a database for the pieces.

# Answer
> 7 votes
You can use Brickstore, it is an offline tool to install on your PC

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Tags: software, part-database
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# Question
Title: Identify this set: bags with grey, blue and red
I am in need of identifying instructions for numbered Lego bags that were handed down from a friend, so my son can start building. They are identified as 4, 5 and 6. I’ve read that the numbers on the bags aren’t helpful so I’ve attached pictures with some identifying pieces to hopefully help! I assume they are from the same kit.

# Answer
Based solely on *Minifigure Armor Breastplate with Pentagonal Cutout on Front and 2 Studs on Back with Trans-Neon Orange Shoulder Pads Pattern* (wow that's a mouthful)...

...which appears in just 12 sets, the set can be identified as 70317-1 The Fortrex:

Now that you're armed with the set number `70317`, it's trivial to search for its instructions in the LEGO website.
> 8 votes

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Tags: set-identification, instructions
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title: Bionicle Tooth: Legal Connection?

text:
# Question
Title: Bionicle Tooth: Legal Connection?
I’m finishing a MOC on stud.IO and have found that it doesn’t recognize a couple connections as legal. This happens on occasion with connections I know are legal, but I’m not sure about these two. They are shown here:

The first one is my preferred, the second a backup. I tested them both out. The first clicks solidly into place, but I’m not sure if the peg fully expands. 16 clicks = 1 rotation.

The second I would be very confident in, but the materials may be problematic according to Lego’s official “Stressing the Elements” PDF.

What do you think? It’s just a MOC so I could go ahead and ignore the rules, but I try to follow the conventions of official sets.

# Answer
In regards to the first element - the ring (outer edge) of the bar that originally keeps a wheel from sliding off is slightly larger than the "bar" element. While this will be enough to keep both together, the element will be in constant stress and eventually will become damaged.

I cannot think of a quick example where LEGO used second type of connection, but cannot remember this being illegal.
> 7 votes

# Answer
The second connection is between a "bar" element and a "technic axle hole". This is used in (yet unreleased) 10305 Lion's Knight Castle. A Brothers-Brick review of the set highlights the mace in the weapons rack:

...which is built with a bar element and a 8T technic gear.
> 7 votes

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Tags: connections
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# Question
Title: Gearbox doesn’t move when it’s in neutral - Is that normal?
I’m not sure if the gearbox is supposed to move when it’s in neutral but the gearbox only moves when it’s in drive or rear. If I made an error can someone please tell me if there is a way to fix it?

# Answer
> 5 votes
The point of the neutral position in a gearbox is that it disconnects the engine from the drivetrain. Therefore no movement is expected at the wheels when the engine turns and vica versa. If the pistons move (their crankshaft turns) when the wheels are turned in drive and do it backwards when in reverse your build is okay.

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Tags: technic, gears, vehicle, wheel
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# Question
Title: Where do I get PDF instructions for LEGO builds that were only in software, like NXT as of 2019?
LEGO Mindstorms NXT 2.0 (8547) stored almost all of its build instructions in the associated software. LEGO no longer supports the software for modern macOS versions. I can not find build instructions for the software-based 8547 builds (the ones not in the instruction booklets). Does anyone know where I can get them?

# Answer
The NXT 2.0 software can be found at https://www.lego.com/nl-nl/themes/mindstorms/downloads although it won't install. But if you already have the software installed and it stopped working you can find the instructions under this path: `C:\Users\[Username]\Documents\LEGO MINDSTORMS NXT\engine\EditorVIs\Academy Content\activities\instructions`. In this folder, you'll find all instructions that the software includes as `.jpg` files.

For now, this is the only thing I have for you. I hope it is what you're looking for. If you don't have this, let me know which instruction you need. Maybe I can upload it here.
> 1 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, nxt, software, instructions, mac
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# Question
Title: Help identify this unknown piece - black police torso, but it has the LEGO logo printed on the middle of the front
I've been looking on Bricklink for a while now, but I haven't found this piece yet, so I'm wondering if anyone knows what it is based on its description: it's a black police torso, but it has the LEGO logo printed on the middle of the front of the torso.

# Answer
> 8 votes
This is either from 2011's Flashlight, Dynamo Torch - Motor Police (which is *not* a minifig but rather a 20cm-high figurine with a flashlight inside a leg, and a crank in a shoulder)...

...or, as user @bgeorge has pointed out in a comment, Mini Torch Minifigure Flashlight Key Chain Police

Keep in mind that keychain minifigs are different from standard minifigs, and so the torso cannot be separated from the legs or head.

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: What's inside the SPIKE Essential small angular motor?
I'm curious about this motor (68488):

This motor looks very small. What is inside this motor? How does it compare to the other Powered Up motors?

# Answer
As far as I know, this is the smallest motor LEGO has produced since the micro motor in 1993:

This new angular motor is not quite that small, but it is smaller than every other motor currently in production. Here's how it looks on the outside:

The basic structure is nearly identical to the medium angular motor shown below except that this motor is shorter. The important connections around the drive are identical. Neither motor allows the drive axle to pass through the entire housing.

We can pop the back off the motor easily enough by depressing the 4 tabs holding it in place and/or prying the housing out slightly. This reveals the printed circuit board and back for the gearbox:

The blue section of the housing is then easily removed:

The gearbox can then be removed from the drive shaft and front of the motor to reveal the main drive gear:

The gear and metallic axle can be easily removed from the housing. The gear provides the main connection for the drive, while the metallic axle is used to transfer rotation through the gearbox to the magnet located on the other side.

Now we can return to the gearbox with the PCB attached:

The PCB can be gently popped off of the gearbox:

The electronics are very similar to those found in other Powered Up motors that include rotation sensing. There is a motor driver, controller, and Hall effect sensor included to monitor the drive angle.

We can remove 6 screws from the gearbox, remove the cover, and put the gears all back where they belong to see how the magnet on the top of the gearbox connects in order to interact with the electronics and act as a rotation sensor.

Note that this motor and gearbox are much smaller than those included in other common LEGO motors. I've included a 1x1 round plate for scale.

Four gears can be removed from the gearbox to reveal a significant gear reduction:

The DC motor can also be removed easily enough in case there is ever a need to repair or replace it:

TLG provides technical specs for this small angular motor:

> Voltage Range
>
> * Min: 3.3 V
> * Max: 6 V
>
> No Load
>
> * Torque: 0 Ncm
> * Speed: 110 RPM +/- 15%
> * Current consumption: 55 mA +/- 15%
>
> Maximum Efficiency
>
> * Torque: 1.8 Ncm
> * Speed: 85 RPM +/- 15%
> * Current consumption: 170 mA +/- 15%
>
> Stall
>
> * Torque: 5 Ncm
> * Speed: 0 RPM
> * Current consumption: 340 mA +/- 15%

This is much weaker than most other motors. For example, the stall torque of 5 Ncm is much less than the rated 18 Ncm for the medium angular motor.

This isn't the most powerful motor, but it is handy for lighter workloads where space is limited. The inclusion of full rotation control also makes it a good fit for spaces where a servo motor might be useful, such as steering on vehicles.
> 23 votes

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Tags: piece-information, motor, spike-prime
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# Question
Title: When did LEGO start adding a progress-bar to build instructions?
Set #40549 has a stud moving along a progress bar at the bottom of each pair of pages, as you move through the instructions. The stud moves left to right.

I've never seen this in any other instruction booklet.

1. Why does this set have it?
2. Are there other sets which have it?
3. If it's a new feature for all sets, when was it added?

# Answer
I've had an answer from LEGO customer service. They only advised one other set which includes the progress bar, which is "Star Wars Hoth AT-ST (75322)". They did however mention "a select few", so there may well be more. I've asked if there's a complete list of released sets that have the progress bar.

It has been added in 2022.

**Update 12th February 2023**

Harry Potter set 76406 (Hungarian Horntail) has a Harry minifig progress bar.

Harry Potter set 76403 (Ministry of Magic) has a Mafalda Hopkirk/Hermione Granger minifig progress bar.
> 11 votes

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Tags: instructions
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# Question
Title: I am building the LEGO 42131 D11 dozer and some of the parts are moving in reverse when testing
I am building the D11 dozer and some of the tests like 2 and 4 are moving the parts in the opposite direction that they are supposed to be going. I took apart the entire build and rebuilt it and the same problem is still happening.

# Answer
I had the same problem but turns out the app graphics are just wrong. Completed the build and it works perfectly fine.
> 7 votes

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Tags: technic, building, motor, gears
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# Question
Title: Where is the LEGO logo on the Tartan Batman minifigure’s cowl piece?
I was examining the cowl piece to my latest Batman mini-figure (the Tartan Batman from that came with the Batman movie magazine by Egmont) and I noticed that I don’t seem to be able to find the spot where the Lego logo is.

The outside is definitely clean, but could it be somewhere within the cowl, especially on the inner side walls? Because the slot where the top of the minifigure head would slot into is clean as well. Where could the elusive logo be? Anyone who knows please enlighten me!

# Answer
Not printed, but molded, inside the left ear. Perhaps. I haven't checked that one in particular, because mine are unopened to give as gifts. But I do have others.

This cowl was relatively easy to see:

This cowl I initially thought didn't have one, but then I went back and looked with better equipment:
> 11 votes

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Tags: piece-information
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title: Help identify this wing-like piece

text:
# Question
Title: Help identify this wing-like piece
So I bought a pile of LEGO bricks and I'd like to know what set this piece is from so I can build it. The only clue I have is the set I'm guessing if from around 2015 as I've identified other sets in the pile and they are all 2015 sets.

Looks like a wing from a spaceship? Maybe Star Wars?

# Answer
This is Wedge, 12x3 Left and this sticker pattern is found in 75003-1 A-Wing Starfighter from 2013.
> 6 votes

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Tags: part-identification, star-wars
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# Question
Title: 42114 (6x6 Volvo Articulated Hauler) doesn’t operate bucket and also doesn’t drive
My 42114: 6x6 Volvo Articulated Hauler drives in first gear for a moment, then stops completely; same thing with 2nd and 3rd gear. It doesn’t operate the bucket either. I suspect I forgot to add a pin to the L motor and the orange gear shifter - how can I fix this the easiest way possible? I’ve calibrated about a hundred times already: sometimes it works for a few seconds then stops completely.

# Answer
It might be the case that the batteries can only supply the required power to move such a heavy model in the first few seconds, then their voltage drops below the required limit for the motors to keep on running. Can you try or have you tried using new, non-rechargeable\* batteries?

Adding a missing pin might be trivial in one case and might require a complete teardown and rebuild in the other case. Without knowing which pin did you forget (if any) it is impossible to tell which one applies to your situation.

\*: the non-rechargeable ones have 1.5V as nominal voltage, whereas the rechargeable ones commonly top out at 1.2V, which then drops further as they get empty.
> 5 votes

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Tags: technic, motor, control-plus
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title: Pybricks on Android Tablet

text:
# Question
Title: Pybricks on Android Tablet
I have a ZTE Grand View 4 Tablet (K87CA), 8 inch screen, Android 10, with 2GB RAM, and the screen is blank when I go to https://code.pybricks.com/. Nothing happens.

# Answer
There was a bug in Pybricks that caused an empty page to load for existing users when a new version was released. It should be fixed for new users, but existing users will need to clear the cache for this page:

**Windows**

`CTRL`+`SHIFT`+`R`

**MAC**

`CMD`+`SHIFT`+`R`

**Android**

You can clear the cache for specific pages with these steps:

* Go to settings in your browser
* Select *Site settings*
* Select *All sites*
* Use the search icon to search for *Pybricks*
* For each entry, click *Clear & reset*
> 3 votes

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Tags: pybricks
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title: Can you help identify these bionicles?

text:
# Question
Title: Can you help identify these bionicles?
My elderly father lied to me. He told me I was his favorite child. Later in life he is now asking me to identify his metric ton of Bionicles pieces. He isn’t in the best health so he can’t do it himself, and I’m not the smart one. So I am here with hopes you can help give me some direction so that I can assemble these guys for him. I don’t know if they’re complete, so I can’t help him sell them until I solve these puzzles. Thanks in advance.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/1CPqxMZn27NNqny56

# Answer
I've had a look at the linked photographs and... wow, that's a lot of stuff.

If you plan on reconstructing the sets, remember that you can search for instructions given a set number.

---

From he above picture I can identify:

* 7156-1 "Corroder" (which is *not* bionicle but rather Hero Factory) (searched for lime bionicle legs)
* 8696-1 "Bitil" (searched for yellow bionicle legs with 3 technic holes)
* 8695-1 "Gorast" (just by combing through list of bionicle sets)

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* Green technic connector with two ball sockets, from one of four possible sets. I'm guessing 8914-1 "Toa Mahri Hahli " based on the attached dark blue parts, and a mask from a different photograph.
* Clawed feet from aforementioned 8983-1 "Vorox ", even though the colour doesn't seem to match in the photograph (due to white balance, perhaps?)

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* 8568-1 "Potahu Nuva" (tan legs connected to brown parts, above revolver)
* 8911-1 "Toa Mahi Jaller" (6-shot revolver-like part, connected to red&orange parts; also mask appears in later photograph)
* Transparent wings with hexagon-like pattern from aforementioned 8695-1 "Gorast" (in the pile at the very top)
* Lots of other unidentified parts

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That's all I can identify for now. You might want to rebuild all known sets, and come back here later with the remaining parts for a second round.
> 10 votes

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Tags: set-identification, bionicle
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# Question
Title: Does anyone know what set this is from? Possibly Star Wars, lots of greys
From a friend, we have what looks like a Star Wars set of 9 bags. Bag one is missing, but I think it was just built as this. The bags say 2011 and 135149. Thanks!

# Answer
It looks like 75093-1 Death Star Final Duel

Based on:

* Light Bluish Gray Technic, Liftarm, Modified Bent Thick L-Shape 2 x 4
* Dark Bluish Gray Slope, Curved 2 x 2 x 2/3
* Light Bluish Gray Plate, Modified 1 x 4 with 2 Studs without Groove
> 4 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: How to open first version of the pneumatic cylinder? (Part no 4688c01)
I have a Lego Technic set 8040 from 1984 with the first version of the pneumatic cylinder. Unfortunately, the shaft on the cylinder broke.

Apparently the top of the cylinder (lid) is glued. Is there a way to soften the glue (maybe with warm water) and open it? Or is my best option cutting it open and than gluing it again?

# Answer
> 5 votes
Thanks everyone for the answers. It gave me the courage to take the piece to the cutting block... And guess what? I now have an almost functional piece. It's not extending 100% and sometimes I need to give a little push. But at least my son can play until I get a replacement on BL.

Here is what I did:

1. Cut the top off with a sharp blade (yes, it isn't kind).

Inside is a rubber gasket and a plastic piece underneath it. The tip of the plastic shaft, which holds the plastic piece, was broken.

2. Using a piece of PVC pipe, I made a small extension and glued it to the tip of the shaft. I used superglue and baking powder for that. Here is where things could have gone better. The extension was not very well aligned with the shaft. So the plastic support became a bit off-center. Had it been better aligned, I believe the fixed piston would work better.

4. I placed the rubber gasket and plastic support on the shaft and used hot glue to secure the piece in place. I then put a little Vaseline inside the cylinder and closed everything with hot glue. I decided to use hot glue in case I ever needed to open the cylinder again.

It's not pretty. But it works - sorts off

# Answer
> 4 votes
The original glue was solvent based. This means that both sides of the joint are more or less fused/welded together. It is not a simple case of "2 pieces with glue in between".
Any solvent that dissolves the glue will also eat the plastic itself.

I think your best bet would be to use a very sharp scalpel or thin-bladed hobby knife to carefully score along the grove around the top until you have cut through.
That should give you a nice clear cut and (after gluing it back together) should be almost invisible.

I can't give you any good advice on what glue is best to use.
I've used acetone myself a couple of times, but found it dissolving the plastic too aggressively, which makes a precision glue-job next to impossible.
(It might be ok if used in very, very small amounts.)
Polystyrene glue (used for those plastic model-kits) will work on Lego, but doesn't have much strength. I doubt it would hold the cap in place when air-pressure is applied.

# Answer
> 2 votes
It might be hard or impossible to fix this so I'd rather address how to fix the issue of having non-functional element instead. You can look into acquiring a used version of the same LEGO item from Bricklink. It might be just cheaper, quicker and easier to do.

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Tags: technic, repair, disassembly, glue, pneumatic
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# Question
Title: Where can I get replacement battery connectors for old Lego Duplo Train?
I have the same Duplo Train that Pieterjan posted a picture and video of in September ('*Old Lego duplo train not working on batteries*'). In my case, it is clear that the battery connectors are corroded due to leaked batteries, and some have snapped as I removed them to clean them. Any idea where I might be able to buy replacements?

# Answer
Considering that the contacts seem to be made specifically for this model of Duplo Train, I think an exact fitting off-the-shelf version likely doesn't exist. You could buy sheet metal of the same material and thickness, then try to cut and bend it to the right shape - or buy another (possibly otherwise broken) Duplo Train of the same type (or in red) to scavenge the connectors in used but official condition.
> 1 votes

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Tags: trains, electronics, repair, duplo
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# Question
Title: Not sure what this is - bag 2, whites, purples, light blues
I got this at the thrift store and have no instructions. Does anyone know what it is?

# Answer
> 3 votes
41332-1 Emma's Art Stand

Based on

* White Plate, Modified 2 x 2 x 2/3 with 2 Studs on Side
* Medium Lavender Plate, Round Corner 2 x 6 Double
* White Plate 2 x 2 Corner

That yields 3 sets, only 1 of which is a Friends set, and it's one that has that mini-doll in it.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: I want to recreate a few things I saw but I don't know what pieces I need. Can you identify these bricks?
I want to recreate a few things I saw but I don't know what pieces I need. Can you identify these bricks so I can buy them on Bricklink?

# Answer
> 12 votes
Most of the bricks seen there are fairly common - plates, tiles, round bricks (2x2, 1x1 and cone 1x1).

Among the "uncommon" parts I can tell:

The SNOT in the scroll is particularly tricky - the correct alignment between a curved slope and the 2x2 round bricks cannot be achieved with the usual parts used for SNOT, as far as I can tell (bricks with stud on side, etc).

For that SNOT assembly, I'll suggest using 1x1 plate with bar handle on long stem together with 1x1 plate with horizontal clip plus a few plates, like so:

As for the stickers, they seem custom-made.

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Any tips for putting figure's hands into the arms?
I've recently bought some Chinese LEGO-like sets and, even though the quality might not be the same as the original, I sometimes think it's a reasonable tradeoff for the 50-75% price discount. Specially if you consider I won't really play with them; they don't need to resist 37.000 times being assembled.

One thing that really annoys me, though, is that they always send the figures without arms and hands attached, specially the hands, which are horrible to put in the arms. They are *really* tight, require a lot of pressure and hurt my fingertips. In the photo below, those 2 Chinese figures are from different sets. I struggled to fit the one with white hands, but no matter how hard I press the black hands of the other dude, I can't fit them in.

I tried so hard on the next fellow that I broke his hand, leaving it stuck in his arm:

Are there any tips for placing those hands? Either avoiding so much force or improving the grip?

# Answer
> 2 votes
Try putting something in the minifigure hands that would give you a bigger grip or more leverage for insertion into the arms. Something like bar 4l gives you a much bigger surface and with balanced pressure on both ends of the bar, you should be able to insert pretty well.

Note that almost anything that can be inserted into a hand would work.

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Tags: minifigures, clone-brands, disassembly
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# Question
Title: How to change colour of the bluetooth/charging RGB LED in the hub?
I have the Mindstorms set 51515 - Robot Inventor. I want to display the progress of a robot's work using the LEDs.

How can I change the colour of the RGB LED that the hub uses to indicate the Bluetooth/charging status?

# Answer
Short answer: You can't.

Longer answer: It should be possible to do with custom firmware, but it's (a) not worth it, (b) difficult from a technical standpoint, and (c) a bad idea.

Disclaimer: besides being an AFOL, I have some experience in the microelectronics industry.

#### What's this "firmware" thing, anyway?

When you load a program into a spike/mindstorms/ev3/etc hub, the hub is not running *just* your program. It's running a lot of stuff under the hood.

In fact, your program (i.e. "the user program") does not communicate with the hardware (motors/sensors) directly. It communicates to the *operating system* of the hub. That's commonly called "firmware" since it lays somewhere in between "hardware" and "software". It's assumed to be immutable and reliable as hardware, but with some effort can be changed/updated as software.

The firmware handles the tricky bits of computing that you don't want to care about - such as the Pulse-Width Modulation for the LED colours, the Real-Time Clock to run commands for specific amounts of time, or the USB and BLE network stacks to communicate with desktop/laptop computers.

Note that your user programs do **not** have full control over the hardware, or over all the features of the OS. For example: any device with a USB stack and a button can be (in theory) converted into a USB mouse (technically a "USB HID")

#### Why is it not worth it?

Because it takes a lot of time; and given the amount of person-hours that it would take to develop custom firmware (such a `pybricks`, the only non-lego™ firmware I'm aware of), you'd be way better off getting an Arduino and/or a Raspberry Pi. That way you can learn to take full(er) control of your hardware.

Or, if you just need extra lights, get set 88005-1.

I'm assuming you are reading this from the point of view of a person just learning computing/robotics. If you already have experience in computing, tweaking `pybricks` or even Zephyr wouldn't be out of the question.

#### Why is it so difficult?

I've skimmed the source code for the `pybricks` firmware. As far as I can see, the code paths for the user-programmable RGB LED and the battery LED are completely different. The former is treated as a peripheral, but the later is treated as *process events passed to the underlying kontiki OS*.

So in order to make the battery LED user-programmable, first you would need to disable it at a lower level. Which means losing the default behaviour for that LED.

#### Why is this a bad idea?

When developing low-level firmware, the ways that the computer (the hub) can display information are **very** limited. I'm talking no bluetooth, no USB, no UART: a status LED is in most cases the only tool available. Losing that tool is plain dangerous.

From a support point of view, *letting a user fake the behaviour of that tool* means that you couldn't trust problem reports. If a LED is stuck on a colour, how can you be sure that it's a problem with the OS, or maybe is it a problem with the user's program?
> 4 votes

# Answer
As far as I know, this is not possible with the default firmware and APIs currently. The primary hub LED is exposed as `hub.led`, but I don't believe that the other LED is accessible from user code.

It may be possible to access it in some undocumented way or via custom firmware, but I'm not familiar with any way to do this.
> 3 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, programming, python, robot-inventor, micropython
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# Question
Title: Plate perpendicular to bottom of square brick/plate: is this connection legal?
This is closely related to the question about jamming plates underneath 2x2 *round* bricks, (and indeed prompted by a comment there), with differences explained later.

It is possible to attach a plate (or tile) to the underside of a ~~square~~ rectangular brick/plate/tile, between the wall and the tubes, like so:

Note how the distance between a brick's wall and its inner tube seems to be the same as the thickness of a plate:

A few observations:

* This connection *feels* looser (seems to have less clutch) than using a round brick.
* For 1-stud-wide plates, this connection doesn't guarantee a straight angle. The edge of the plate sits loose inside the brick.
* For post-2005 regular bricks (i.e. non-sloped), since they have thinned walls with notches at every stud, the connection is particularly flimsy. A 1-stud-wide plate just won't get any grip at all.
* The walls of rectangular bricks are connected to each other, so bending a wall "outwards" (to jam a plate/tile inside) means bending or stressing the perpendicular walls (as far as I understand the physics of solid materials).

So:

* Is this connection "legal"? (i.e.: Does this connection stress the parts involved?)
* Has this type of connection been used in any official sets?

# Answer
> 9 votes
To answer your second question: The technique was used by Lego in 1976's set 726 (12v Western train with 2 Wagons and Cowboys), to attach the horse's tail.

See page 13 of the instructions:

# Answer
> 4 votes
Some anecdotal evidence against legality: I have built such connections with rather old plates a long time ago and one of the outer plates failed (the wall breaking off). So it certainly puts the plates under some stress.

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Tags: building, connections
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# Question
Title: I have two unopened bags of LEGO, I can’t figure out what set they're from
Two bags from Goodwill, bags are marked 2017, number 135149 (which I’ve heard is not useful information anyway)... The QR code unfortunately would not work on the LEGO app.

# Answer
> 6 votes
These are parts from

31091: Shuttle Transporter

Keyparts

# Answer
> 4 votes
According to BrickLink, the only set with White Bracket 1 x 2 - 2 x 2 and Light Bluish Gray Brick, Round 2 x 2 with Flutes (Grille) and Axle Hole and White Slope, Curved 2 x 1 x 1 1/3 with Recessed Stud is 31091 Shuttle Transporter. It also seems to have the pieces from the second bag.

# Answer
> -2 votes
I think it's the set with the boat/ocean liner from 2017. We just found an unopened bag of the crane on the back of the ship from that set. (Bag#2 from set?)

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: What are all the different ways that LEGO pieces join together?
Has anyone made a list of all of the different types of connections between LEGO bricks?

Obviously there's the stud connection - but there's also the ball and socket joint, the more recent click-hinge, the pole-to-minifig-hand connection, and so on.

I suspect there are a quite a few that are specific to a few pieces (eg door hinges or train magnets). What I'm most interested in though are the connections that are part of the overall 'system'.

# Answer
Currently in use:

* Stud and "antistud" (diameter 4.6mm)
* Longer studs (Minifig torso)
* Minifig legs
* Minifig neck and head / accessory (eg backpack) - also compatible with studs
* Clip and bar (in a way, similar to stud, but with diameter 3.2mm)
* Wheels (3.2mm axles)
* Flower connector (similar, but even smaller, present in a surprising number of parts, including spider and Technic chain link)
* Technic hole and pin (compatible with studs)
* Technic axle and axle hole
* Turntable
* Click hinges
* Ball joint sockets
* Brick hinges (I'd wager this one is the next one to disappear)
* 9v/RC track connection (discontinued)
* PF electrical plug (discontinued)
* NXT electrical plug (discontinued)
* PU electrical plug
* Train magnets, embedded
* Pneumatic hoses to pneumatic elements and bar elements
* Sliding door in grooves
* Visors on helmets

Decommissioned:

* Flat hinges
* 12v track clip
* 4.5V/12v electrical plugs
* 9V electrical plugs
* Train magnets, free (connects to flowers too...)
* Tube plate hinge (with red tube)
* Wheels (metal pin, as in blue era train wheels)
* Wheels (Plastic pin, as in grey era train wheels)
* ZNAP
* Homemaker arm joints
> 13 votes

# Answer
Normal, with the studs around the tube Stud onto tube. Tile +1 hollow stud to pillar of 1×. & the edge of a slimbrick between studs. Round 1×1 between studs. & to pillar (if hole in top). & some 1× tiles with stud(s) & 5 high have vains, so can take stud midway as well as normal place.
> -2 votes

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Tags: piece-information, building, design
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# Question
Title: Are LEGO Pneumatics gen 1 and gen 2 compatible?
I think they are at least partially compatible, but how much so? Can generation 1 and generation 2 cylinders easily and effectively be combined in one pneumatic pipe system? I.e. a set of pipes, tubes and other parts that exchange the air and are pressurized by the same pump. And how can possible problems be overcome?

# Answer
https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Lego\_pneumatics describes the various generations.

They describe V2 more as generation 2.1, pistons changed, but tubing and t-pieces stayed identical. Therefore I think it's safe to say that it's entirely compatible with all pneumatics from 1985 on ... The pneumatics prior to that is a different story...
> 2 votes

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Tags: technic, compatibility, pneumatic
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# Question
Title: Caterpillar D11 (set 42131). Control+ app doesn't seem to work
I just finished my build of the Caterpillar bulldozer D11 (set 42131) and I'm NOT able to operate it with the Control+ app on my iPhone.

First the calibrate process begins:

* Step 1 in that is to move the scoop up and down, but instead the plough moves.
* Step 2 is supposed to change the angle of the scoop, but nothing happens at all. The Control+ app just keeps playing that engine noise and absolutely nothing happens for minutes until I kill the app.

That is all. Without getting through calibration the model can't be operated.

Obviously I could have wired the 4 motors to the wrong sockets on the control box, but I'm absolutely certain I followed the instructions in the book correctly.
I double and triple checked at that point in the build as I found the pictures in the book not very clear at first. I'm VERY certain I got that right.
Even if I did get the motors mixed up I still expect to see some movement when trying to calibrate. But movement on the wrong parts.

Is there a known issue with the Control+ app for this set? (It works fine, using the same iPhone, with the 42100 Liebherr 9800 excavator set.)

Or do I really have to take the entire thing apart again to get at the wiring? It is really buried deep inside the model so that would be a real pain.

# Answer
*Converting my last comments into an answer.*

I went through the instructions to understand how this thing works. I think your issue isn't related to cabling (it would be much easier to fix) but there is something wrong inside the gearbox. There are several places that could get things wrong if enough attention has not been paid and it was assembled incorrectly. And I can see why it needs calibration. It seems to me that assembled model's default setup is to control the plough indeed, which fits your description.

Check steps 117 and 120 if you have assembled correctly. The thing is that one of the two pictured motors switch between functions and the other motor operates functions. Your issue seems to be related to the switching between functions, not its operation. Position the model in such a way that you can observe what is going on with orange 2L beam placed in step 117 and try calibration again. As far as I understand the "switch" motor has to turn this beam 90 degrees up (from pictured position) to enable 1st function (that is the blade); 180 degree (opposite direction from pic) for 2nd function.
> 1 votes

# Answer
I had the same problem as you and solved it. For me, the error is in step 87. I had mounted the orange part in the wrong side and it jammed the whole system from turning right.

Hope this is useful to you!
> 3 votes

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Tags: technic, powered-up, control-plus
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title: What is a novelty element?

text:
# Question
Title: What is a novelty element?
TLG recently released the following update regarding clearing out the current backlog of PaB orders:

> Starting week 34 (next week) the Denmark warehouse which processes "Standard" Pick a Brick orders, will be increasing warehouse staff and we should expect that between now and November, the order backlog is reduced and eventually eliminated. This forecast takes into account the upward trends that occur during specific events like new elements becoming available and the holiday season. Forecasts are predictions though...
>
> Also starting week 34 we will start to increase the Pick a Brick assortment including the addition of **novelty elements** that launched from January through May 2022. These are not expected to launch in their entirety in week 34 but rolled out over a few weeks. We should then see **novelty elements** launching monthly moving forward.
>
> It has been a long road for **novelty elements** launching and I recognize the challenge this creates. There is an end in sight though. Thank you for sharing your community members (and your own) concern along the way. Your voice has been, and will continue to be shared, with the relevant internal team in relation to this matter.

What does "novelty element" mean in this context? Does this term have a TLG-specific meaning beyond its general meaning?

# Answer
> 15 votes
This was a new term for me. It was clarified on the LEGO Ambassador Network by a member of the LEGO Community Team:

> We have a lot of internal words that are not always known to the public. TLG considers **new molds and recolors of existing elements** (old element but new color) to be "novelty" for the first year they are produced.

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Tags: lego-group, terminology, pick-a-brick
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# Question
Title: Is it possible to control the EV3 brick with a GUI on PC? If so hows the best way to go about it
I've been interested in controlling a machine remotely through a GUI and I am stuck in between picking Python or Java to do this project in but I also think the way I'm going about this would be all wrong.

The idea would work something like this:

1. Connect via Bluetooth
2. Create a simple GUI with buttons corresponding to the device attached (like a motor)
3. When a button is pressed then the device would activate

However I'm not sure if this would work?

# Answer
> 1 votes
For mobile devices, there is an official LEGO app called *LEGO® MINDSTORMS® Commander* that can do this (Android, iOS, Fire, Windows).

If you want to write your own app, you will need to use the EV3 communication protocol.

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Tags: ev3, remote-control, python
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# Question
Title: Fan door does not close completely - Air Race Jet
After completing the Air Race Jet, I found that the upper fan door does not close completely (stopping short by about 1/2 inches) when I switch from VTOL to Flight mode.

The attachment points to the pulley pieces operating the door seem correct, and the engine nozzle and flaps move into their correct positions.

So I have not been able to see what is blocking it. Any ideas on fixing this?

I did notice that the two gray pieces that support the black engine nozzle cowl are shown as upright in the instructions, but are slightly slanted in my completed model. I wonder if this may be related.

Yesterday I contacted LEGO customer service about my non-closing fan door problem, after disassembling about 30% of the model in a vain effort at finding the cause. Their response was that there was nothing wrong and this was normal, even after I sent them Youtubes showing normal operation and a video of my issue.

So in addition to asking for any input on fixing my problem, I’d like to also ask anyone familiar with this kit if you agree that there is a problem.

Well, I decided to call customer service at LEGO, and a very helpful fellow confirmed the existence of the defect in my model — doubtless a mistake buried somewhere in the 1,151 parts, as I thought. So back to my question - where should I look for the defect?

He suggested focusing on the area depicted below. You’ll notice a yellow crossbar going through two gray support pieces. With the doors shut, they should be flush against one another with none of the yellow showing, but in my model they have a gap when Flight mode quits, as shown. If you manually push the doors (top or bottom) shut, they are flush. So this area may be key, or (shudder) just an artifact of a mistake elsewhere.

# Answer
> 7 votes
I don't have this model. Never built it, but thanks to *Youtube* we can understand with moving pictures the frustration, and build fatigue you might feel.

*JANGBRiCKS* says:

> "It's one of those builds where you need to get everything exactly right the first time. Penalty for making any sort of mistake is very very high and there are many things that are left incomplete for long periods time as you're building up the functions inside of this.
>
> The main build of all of the gears, and all of the levers, all of the beams, and everything that connect together, ultimately, very very late in the game, late in the process of building to form the functions that are all powered by a single motor."

*Think Loud's* video review and speed build, is similar to your issue, where his fap door doesn't close properly, and he has to manually pop it down too. So, I see what you mean, Bro.

---

I'll take your word that all connections are good, so we're not gonna think it's, an

> "artifact of a mistake elsewhere."

(*Luv how you said that*!)

So, in trusting you, I think your build is right instruction-wise, but our engineering insight could use a slight twist here and there.

**So, in this Vertical Take-Off and Landing mode, we see:**

1. Top blue flap comes up.
2. Two bottom blue flaps spread open.
3. Rear gray exhaust nozzle drops down.
4. Two black flaps on back of wings that turn down.

For all of these features to work properly, you have to go back to your build, and manually turn each section, or gear torque completely to position "0" of VTOL mode.

So, if one or more is off, even slightly, it will affect the total length of deployment, and retraction of the others.

I can only imagine one of the features positioned too early hitting a physical wall, or space constraint, causing the other features not to fully complete their run.

You did mentioned the top gap, bottom gaps, and misaligned tail engine. Yes, they're all related to the VTOL feature so, if one is off, they're all gonna be off.

Try this out, and hit us back with your results.

---

My source videos:

# Answer
> 0 votes
Check step 63 There is in zoomed picture showed when small black wheel has to be connected to beige wheel,when connected it will "lock" the position of closed roof and bottom To correct it when u already built it is very easy Move that small black wheel from beige ,u added in step 63. When black wheel moved,press the "L" lever in red box zoomed picture down,your roof and bottom will close,when closed hold the position and move black wheel back to connect with beige, now it should work pretty well

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Tags: technic, building
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# Question
Title: What LEGO pieces have "real-world" functionality?
I have noticed that there are a few LEGO pieces that also function in the "real-world." For example, the 10830c01 Magnifying Glass can actually magnify.

Another example is the 70001pb01 Compass, which works the same way you'd expect any "real-world" compass to function. (Although it's not always 100% accurate.)

Are there any other LEGO pieces that have "real-world" functionality?

# Answer
> 18 votes
The web pieces made of flexible string are perfectly serviceable real-life webs, even if they are too small for most applications.

Of course the LEGO brand magnets are working real-life magnets as well.

Some sets have included large air bellows that could be compressed manually (i.e. hit) to supply a burst of air to launch a projectile or a racecar.

The light-up bricks are naturally serviceable as tiny flashlights.

The rechargeable batteries are usable outside of the LEGO world as batteries.

The large sawblade used in some constructible action figure lines (for example Bionicle) and System lines (for example Power Miners) with the right setup could be used as a table saw to cut through paper or other materials of comparable strength.

The parachutes of the 2019 City Police sets are advertiesed as working parachutes, so I'd expect them to be ... working parachutes, at least for loads comparable to minifigures.

Almost all LEGO propeller pieces are functional propellers (having pitch and accepting an axle), with admittedly terrible performance compared to purpose-engineered examples.

The old-style 9V and newer PF electric extension wires could be used as real wires.

The electrical switches (or polarity changers) are working too.

In the same vein, the pneumatic components (pump, tube, valve, cylinder, tank, manometer) are working as well.

The Technic shock absorbers (springs) would apply too, some are even adjustable.

Naturally, all Technic gears are working gears, even if they have suboptimal shapes and materials compared to real-world examples.

The LEGO City mugs can actually hold tiny amounts of liquids.

The boat hull pieces that are advertised as being able to float, do of course float.

The treasure chest, large barrel and letterbox pieces are tiny, but functional storage items.

Some City sets include working car jacks.

LEGO has produced mirror pieces with stickers that really reflect light and of course all transparent window panels let light through. On the same topic, many door elements have working hinges and the tiny fences could be used to separate tiny gardens and to keep tiny animals from crossing over. (Caveat: almost all animals that are small enough that can't just step over it can probably climb over or fit through the holes)

Possibly the most boring example of all: the weighted brick does indeed weight quite a lot due to a metal insert and is thus usable as counterweight.

# Answer
> 48 votes
## All Aboard!

I'd like to add my all-time favorite LEGO piece:

* x870cc02, **THE BLACK WHISTLE!**

The white brick is a microphone. Attach it to your train's motor and **BLOW THAT WHISTLE**! Depending on how short (or LONG!) your whistling was, the train would go forwards or backwards.

* Real-world use: Not only did it drive your train round the bend, **but your parents too...!**

# Answer
> 24 votes
Minifig accessory "shovel" can be used for dispensing minute amounts of a powder. Urban legend attributes such usage to drug dealers.

The fact that amazon lists digital pocket scale (0,1 g resolution, 100g max) and an airtight container as "frequently bought together" hints it's more than just a legend and LEGO shovels are indeed used in this way.

# Answer
> 20 votes
The holes in Lego Technic work very well as holes.

By which I mean, I have built very successful motor-driven cross slides for small machine tools using Technic pieces.

When paired with nominally 4.8mm metric ground rod (which tends to have a negative tolerance) the 4.8mm holes are a nice sliding fit. Imperial 3/16" rod at about 4.76mm also works, but is a bit sloppier.

Although the hole is a little undersized for tapping M6 (5.0 required), the soft plastic easily allows a taper tap to be run through. The 1mm pitch of the thread, together with the hard metric 8mm width of the brick means that the start and finish phase of the threads is identical. If an already tapped brick is pegged as a guide to a new brick, then (a) the guide will help ensure that thread goes in straight and (b) has the same phase in both bricks. I mark a guide brick, so there's no cummulative error in creating new tapped bricks.

A piece of 6mm studding can then be used as a lead screw. It can be fitted concentrically to Technic shafts by locknutting it to a tapped brick, then pegging the brick to a 40t gear.

That's all been taken apart now. But only last week I had a measurement problem, and needed to be able to adjust the height of a stage quickly between many, repeatable, fairly precise heights. Behold, two sets of binary stacking gauge blocks, 16x8mm down to 1x8mm.

# Answer
> 19 votes
I once published a paper in a peer reviewed scientific journal using data gathered using a remote translation stage constructed from Lego Technic.

I could only get ~ +-1mm accuracy out of it, where the proper stages were more like +- 0.1mm, but it was good enough for a proof of concept and the proper stages were on back order.

Of course many people would say that an X-Ray Physics lab is not the real world, but that's another matter!

# Answer
> 16 votes
One obvious answer is all components of the power functions family.

Lights can be used as lights, motors can be used as motors.

# Answer
> 8 votes
Those shoehorn pieces worked. Technically, all of them serve their intended purpose as bricks. The ropes function. The ball shooting contraption present in the Lego Ninjago dragons (and other sets, I bet) functioned, as well as the spring-loaded cannon pieces. The axles technically worked (but not very well in actual cars).

# Answer
> 8 votes
Gears function quite well for creating mechanical devices such as functioning clocks:

Design by KEvronista, picture by me.

Naturally you can use an electric motor for more accurate timekeeping, as in the NXT Classic Clock (bonus model from Lego):

---

LEGO Mindstorms robotics kits are also a great way for kids and adults to get started with robotics, and I would bet that a good number of current robotics and mechanical engineers got their start with building LEGO robots. There's a healthy educational community and competitions such as FIRST Robotics.

# Answer
> 5 votes
Disclaimer: this is cheating a bit.

---

**All of them!**

I mean - even the most simple lego brick serves as a brick, so a creative mind can devise a real-world use for almost any brick if you have enough time, money and bricks at hand.

# Answer
> 4 votes
I suppose several of the tools in Minifigure utensil wheel theoretically could be used in certain circumstances. I.e. you could hit things with the hammer, it would probably break before you got anything useful done with it, but it can still be said to have it's functionality.

# Answer
> 4 votes
Ultimately, *all* functional LEGO elements can be used in the "real world" for their function.

* Hinges can be used as hinges
* Wheels work well as wheels
* Containers (e.g. drawers) can contain things
* Magnets work as magnets
* Decorative elements can be used for decoration

... and so on.

# Answer
> 4 votes
LEGO rubber bands, O-rings, and belts can be used to grip things, for sealing pneumatic moving parts, and for transmitting power.

LEGO sails actually catch wind on floating vessels, and the covered wagon covers and tents keep water off whatever's underneath them.

# Answer
> 4 votes
Robots created with the Mindstorms product line are real robots.

# Answer
> 3 votes
A few lab examples that have used my parts, mainly 80s/90s Technic:

* A quick spincoater made of Technic for use with microscope slides. ("We need a small spincoater. Tomorrow.")
* A syringe pusher using pneumatic Technic. Unlike pushing by hand the syringe didn't move under the microscope when squeezed.

Both these two were for a research project; the Lego wasn't mentioned in the paper though. BTW spin-coating doesn't work well with liquid crystals on structured surfaces, or at least not with the electric field geomtery we had.

* In a teaching lab, spinning Technic plates at 20 000 rpm to look at the Doppler shift of ultrasound reflected off them (not a Lego motor, but the rest was).
* Another teaching project: A Lego model of ʻOumuamua made from various colours of 2x2 round bricks and rotated using Technic. The reflection of a light source was recorded on a photodiode to simulate observations.

I've also used Technic to make:

* One-off assembly jigs to hold a workpiece on a funny angle while glue dried (engineering job)
* A large setsquare incorporating a set of open sights to align a laser beam to the wall in my lab. Lego+Pythagoras proved squarer than the building.

Essentially all Technic is potentially useful in the lab, plus other parts as needed to make it fit.

# Answer
> 2 votes
There are several lego "pieces" that function as tools for humans to use with Lego. Most notably the Brick Separator and its variations, but also Duplo Toolo Screwdriver and Wrench, RC Car Separator, and Triangle Ruler.

# Answer
> 2 votes
As a child, I successfully replaced the perished tyre on the bobbin winder of my mother's sewing machine with a Lego tyre of similar diameter.

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Tags: piece-information
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title: Which 1x2 brick design is older?

text:
# Question
Title: Which 1x2 brick design is older?
I was trying to rebuild the LEGO Harry Potter Hogwarts Castle from 2001 and I’ve noticed that at some point they changed the 1x2’s model. Which design is older?

# Answer
> 7 votes
I remember seeing some new bricks reusing (probably updated) older variation of the mould. So this kind of information isn't always accurate.

Here what Rebrickable tells about variations of Brick 1 x 2:

> There are three known mold versions of this part:
>
> 3065 Brick 1 x 2 without Bottom Tube This is the original version, introduced in 1955. The inside has no bottom tube. While it was replaced by a tubed version in 1959, it was kept in production for transparent colors.
>
> 3004 Brick 1 x 2 with Open Bottom Tube This seems to be the modern version. The bottom tube is open.
>
> 3004 Brick 1 x 2 with Solid Bottom Tube This seems to be an older version. The bottom tube is solid.

And since Rebrickable's idea is to keep accurate inventories for each set they have following disclaimer for this brick:

> The mold comparison image shows all three versions. As long as we are unsure when the mold change of 3004 happened, we cannot create different parts for these molds.

# Answer
> 1 votes
I can't see if they have cross-members in your photo, as can be seen in the other answer. If the solid one doesn't have them, then it is definitely older. Probably they made the two changes at different times and kept hollow pillars and the one with the solid pillar is older anyway.

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Tags: part-identification, history, harry-potter
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# Question
Title: What is the best way to connect SPIKE prime angular motor to a wheel
I was wondering if there is a difference in the amount of torque transferred to the wheels from a LEGO SPIKE prime angular motor (45603 LEGO Education SPIKE Prime Medium Angular Motor) depending on:

1. using the axle to connect to the wheel or
2. Using 2 or 4 pins to connect to the wheel
3. Using a combination of pins and axle

The motor and connection points (axle and 4 holes for pins)

Wheel connected only by axle

Wheel connected using black pins (part 2780)

It feels like using black pins would be better, as the axle would have to turn a lot harder to rotate a wheel (torque about a point is related to distance from pivot point to the point at which force is applied). Does it apply in this case too?

The reason for my question: my Lego team is building a robot that needs to push on a bar. In this case doing things slower than faster can be better as the motion is more controlled. Would I be able to push with greater force using a 4 pin configuration vs a single axle?

Does this theory transfer to real life: eg cars, trucks, etc? Would the number of lug nuts and distance from center affect the vehicles motion/efficiency?

# Answer
TL;DR: Unless you do something quite extreme engineering, any coupling will do just fine and the motor will stall or the tire will slip before even a single axle gets to its limit.

---

The pins have a much higher shear strength than the twisting solidity of an axle. (I don't have the numbers ready, but I'm sure some have performed measurements regarding these values, and it seems intuitive too.)

Therefore if the wheel encounters heavy resistance, while the motor is turning very hard (as in, "almost impossible to achieve with standard LEGO parts" hard), then a single axle will fail by a lower torque than two or more pins. The coupling that can transfer the most torque before anything breaks is definitely the combination of four pins and an axle, maybe with additional 3mm bar pieces stuck into the pins.

But by the time you get to torques where this kind of coupling would be required, you are already working with such extreme gearing, that you need to employ specific building techniques suitable for high forces everywhere else too.

---

Responding to your edit:

> In this case doing things slower than faster can be better as the motion is more controlled.

Sounds like you need a reduction gearbox, which would result in slower speeds and greater torque. This would mean that your motion can indeed be controlled better.

> Would I be able to push with greater force using a 4 pin configuration vs a single axle?

As detailed previously, the method of affixing the wheel to the motor does not influence the force between the wheel and the ground (as long as it's a static coupling and not a force converter of some kind).

> Does this theory transfer to real life: eg cars, trucks, etc? Would the number of lug nuts and distance from center affect the vehicles motion/efficiency?

The common theory is that real life vehicles need a gearbox as well to be able to operate in a wide range of speed-torque ratios while using the same engine. And their designers need to be mindful too of the rated limits of the parts used - but in your case LEGO pretty much did this job for you by producing motors and parts that can almost always be used together safely without calculating shear and torsion strengths.

An 18-wheeler truck has a lot more wheel lugs, as the forces generated are a lot larger than in case of a two-seater minicar, therefore requiring more material to ensure they don't fail even under the heaviest loads (emergency braking with full load at highway velocities). With both vehicles the lugs act as a 1:1 static coupling between the axle and the wheel, just the range of forces (or torques) that needs to be handled safely is much wider.

Nevertheless, you can easily set up a small experiment, where you stand a kitchen scale on its side between a fixed object and your bot, and measure the force your bot can push the scale with. This would help you see the lack of difference between the single axle and four pin versions, and later on would be useful to test different gearing solutions.
> 7 votes

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Tags: motor, wheel, connections, robot-inventor, spike-prime
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# Question
Title: What are the small numbers on old LEGO instruction booklet covers for?
Along with the set number, my old LEGO instruction booklets have a larger number in a smaller font on them as well. What do these numbers represent? What are they for? Unit/serial number?
This booklet for example:  It has "120733" written on the right in the black border at the bottom, in a font about half as high as said border. You need to zoom in to see it.
My newer sets' instructions don't seem to have this.

# Answer
> 4 votes
Such identifications exist not just on building instructions but on other printed items like catalogs, brochures, leaflets and so on. I don't have anything to base my answer on, but my guess this is some sort of "inventory ID". Just to make things easier to store and refer to instead of using using full name like "Building instructions for 8034".

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Tags: sets, instructions, vintage, set-numbering
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# Question
Title: Lego Mindstorms RCX RIS 2.0 IR tower Windows 7 / XP driver
So I've recently dug up my old Lego Mindstorms RIS 2.0 (RCX) and have spent the past few days trying to install it into my Windows 7 laptop. It worked fine, except it could not find the correct drivers for the IR tower. Installing it on a Windows XP Virtual machine has given the same result.

Any suggestions/patches?

# Answer
I have the RCX IR tower setup and working on my Windows 7 laptop. I downloaded the drivers from the ROBOTC.net site here (labeled 'RCX Device driver')

Direct file download link

Note: I am running Windows 7 32-bit, according to the ROBOTC site, **this driver is 32.bit only** and

> No known 64-bit driver is available for the RCX.
> 9 votes

# Answer
Please note as of 2022 the accepted answer NO LONGER WORKS (RobotC.net no longer hosts this file). An equivalent tower driver can still be found from here: https://www.philohome.com/sdk25/sdk25.htm

As with before, the USB IR Tower will only work on 32-bit Windows (and also Linux, though that's a different question). If you run 64-bit Windows you will need to:

a) Run the Mindstorms software in a Windows XP virtual machine, OR
b) Get a Serial Port version of the IR tower and a USB to Serial adapter.
> 3 votes

# Answer
If you’re attempting to use the USB RCX 2.0 on Windows 7, 64 bit OS, I used the free version of Oracle VM VirtualBox. I installed Windows XP. In the settings section of the VM software for the XP machine, go to the USB tab, add the USB IR tower (by clicking on the unlabeled “+ add filter” icon on the right side of the page (note: your host OS will not have access to any ‘filtered’ items you add, so don’t add your keyboard or mouse..!). Windows XP should see the IR tower after you begin the XP machine again.

Thanks MindS1 for edit!
> 2 votes

# Answer
I searched for this problem as well and want to share my solution with you.

I am on Windows 10 64 bit and had no driver.

So I did these easy steps:

1. Go to Device Manager and select the USB TOwer
2. Go to Driver/ Update Driver
3. Select: Search on this Computer -\> Select out of a list on this Computer
4. Pick the LEGO MINDSTORMS NXT Firmware Update Mode -\> Install

Hope I could help someone with this.
> 1 votes

# Answer
The LEGO Mindstorms NXT driver has the same vendor ID (vid) but not the same PID. When you modify the `.inf` file and deactivate the driver signature, the driver is well installed, but tower is not able to communicate with leJOS driver found here:

https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/login.php?redirect=download.php&id=982176
> 0 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, rcx
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title: Adapters for Lego Duplo and Mega Bloks

text:
# Question
Title: Adapters for Lego Duplo and Mega Bloks
Similar to this question I am interested in combining Duplo Lego with Mega Bloks. I want to have full compatibility, i.e. being able to put Duplo on top of Mega Bloks, which requires some type of adapter.

I am looking for BUYABLE adapter pieces (not self-made via 3dprinter or such).

**Does anyone know a source?**

---

I found that Lego has a (discontinued) system called "Lego Primo" with similar round studs. It does have adapter blocks for Duplo (marked with red rectangle):

**Can anyone confirm that these do / do not fit the Mega Bloks studs?**

Although they are discontinued, they can still be bought used. So if they fit it would be an option for me.

---

2. There is an unconventional type of adapter being sold on Ebay (seems to be just a single offer, used):

**Has anyone ever seen these somehwere else? Maybe even in real life?** They do not look 3d-printed, they look injection molded (like Lego and Mega Bloks). So there might be someone producing them (or having produced them) commercially...

# Answer
> 6 votes
Primo and Mega Bloks are **not** compatible.

The Primo piece loosely fits on a Mega Blok piece:

But the Mega Blok piece does not fit on the Primo stud.

As for the adapters in your second photo, I have seen them many times in used toy collections I've bought; unfortunately, I don't think I've ever seen them new in the package to give you a specific reference on how to buy them. But I've always assumed they were an actual Mega Brands product.

I have a 2x2 (or 1x1) and 2x4 (or 1x2) in front of me. The smaller says **430** and **© 1988**. The larger says **439** and **PAT PEND** and **© 1988** and (tellingly) **Ritvik**. (Ritvik was the maker of Mega Bloks.)

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Tags: clone-brands, compatibility, duplo
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title: How do I change the color of a brick?

text:
# Question
Title: How do I change the color of a brick?
I have a uniquely-shaped brick that I would like to make a darker shade of gray (it's currently blue).

* What media is the best in terms of durability for continued use (i.e. re-use, re-configuration)?
* I assume a spray media would work well, is there a particular type of paint to use that would have a harder surface and be less prone to scratching, sticking?

# Answer
> 25 votes
I don't think that spray paint would be very durable. Even if you used a primer specifically designed for plastic the paint would scratch off fairly easily. Also, spray paint would add a noticeable amount of thickness to the brick and could interfere when trying to mate the brick up with others.

# Answer
> 20 votes
The problem is that bricks are coloured throughout, not just surface coloured, which means any paint you add will wear off.

My guidance is to source a brick in the colour you need and replace it.

# Answer
> 17 votes
If it's for a display model (static on a shelf) you could use scale model paint and varnish. Matching the original color will be hard, so don't expect perfection.

On the other hand, if your looking to 'play' with that piece afterward, I don't think any paint method can resist that abuse. like mentioned by Rory Alsop you're better off finding the real thing.

# Answer
> 16 votes
According to Auto Body Repair by Duffy and Sharff, the best solution for any interior or exterior (non-flexible) ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene, the plastic LEGO elements are made of) component is to apply a standard lacquer based system, no primer.

# Answer
> 10 votes
It's Lego blasphemy to change the color of the bricks (or to modify them using, say, a dremmel) but that said I would use the spray paint that is made for plastic. Of course, whenever I go to Lowes the color selection is limited so you may not find the color you need.

# Answer
> 8 votes
Use clothing dye to change the color. It works for wear and tear. It doesn't wear off. It dyes the part rather than coating it.

# Answer
> 1 votes
I just thought of a new method: Order custom sticker sheets and apply the stickers. Might be tough to get the color right, though.

# Answer
> -1 votes
Hm, maybe try using British Paints Spray Paint. I think they are the best brand. Just make SURE that it is the exact same colour with the other ones you are using. Spray at about 35-40cm distance from the block. I tried it and it works well.

# Answer
> -2 votes
If it's on display, then paint it, use water colour paints, or use permanent marker. They all work well.

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Tags: colour, customization
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# Question
Title: Looking for set number - lots of off green flat pieces
Looking for kit that these bags belong to

# Answer
> 6 votes
These are from The Child (75318) set. Identified by unique combination of two elements in Sand Green color:

Slope, Curved 2 x 1 x 1 1/3 with Recessed Stud

and Slope, Curved 4 x 1 Inverted

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: What Lego-like head is this, with a blue slit over the eyes?
It has no facial features. Has a blue slit. No helmet and no hair

# Answer
> 5 votes
Following the lead from RSchulz that this might be Kreo, I found this head in the Dinobot Slug Custom Kreon set.

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands, minifigure-identification
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# Question
Title: What set is this from? (spiky transparent blue with axle hole in the center)
Does anyone know what this piece is? I have asked people around if they know what piece it is. They didn't know it. It has an axle hole in the center.

All help appreciated

# Answer
> 9 votes
Looks like part 98578 Hero Factory Weapon: Spiked Ball, Half in transparent dark blue (found by a bricklink search for pieces named "half" in trans-blue).

It appears in two sets: 70202-1 "Chi Gorzan" from Legends of Chima, and 45560-1 "EV3 expansion set".

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification
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# Question
Title: How do I erase all old programs using the new scratch type Education software?
I have 24 Lego Mindstorms EV3 bricks that have old programs and the bricks are named. I want to erase them so they can be used for new students. In the older Mindstorms software I would just reinstall the firmware from the tools menu. That would easily clear off the bricks. How do I do that with the new scratch type Mindstorms Education software? I don't see that command.

# Answer
The LEGO Education Website EV3 firmware update page lists two options.

1. Use the EV3 Device Manager web page. The instructions are not entirely clear, but if you visit the web page with Chrome (recommended), Safari, Edge, or Internet Explorer, click the *Available Bricks (0)* button and wait a very long time, it will eventually pop up a dialog asking to download and install an *EV3 Device Manager* program to your computer. The EV3 Connection Manager program runs in the background on your computer and communicates with the EV3 Connection Manager web page in the browser. After installing the separate background program, the web page will be able to connect to your EV3. Then you can use it to update the firmware. It does not appear that this method gives you the option of selecting which firmware file to use. It will likely give you v1.10E, which has some known issues (EV3 acts as USB mass storage device which doesn't always work, and on-brick data log app is missing). But that version should work fine for most uses.
2. If you have Windows, Chromebook or older macOS (10.14 Mojave or earlier), you can also install the older software and use that. It is available from the LEGO Education retired products download page. (Android and iOS versions might not work due to lack of USB connectivity needed for firmware update.)
> 4 votes

# Answer
Just do a hard reset on your brick. Each student can do that
> 2 votes

# Answer
I looked up hard reset. Plug into USB, hold down back, center and right buttons. When it shuts off release the back button, then the rest. The brick will reset. Thank you so much, you saved me so much time!!
> 0 votes

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms, software
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# Question
Title: What set does this bag belong to? Mostly black with some red and yellow pieces
Bought these at a garage sale.  Picture of bag. 5. 121r8

# Answer
I can see a Black Wedge, Plate A-Shape with 2 Rows of 4 Studs and a Dark Red Wedge, Plate 4 x 2 Left. Those appear just in two sets, and I'm fairly convinced that you've got parts of Ninjago set 70653-1 Firstbourne:

The inventory of that set is consistent with other parts seen your photograph - there's Wedge, Plate 3 x 2 Left in Bright Light Orange (easily mistaken with Yellow), Dark Bluish Gray 1x2 Technic Brick 1 x 2 with Holes, barbs in Bright Orange, and others.
> 7 votes

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification
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# Question
Title: Where can I find the value of this seemingly rare MEGA BLOKS tree and whether there are additional parts?
I am looking for a value on this MEGA BLOKS item and whether there are additional parts to it. I have searched AM05829 AND AMO5829 on internet, ebay, and etsy and have found nothing. I seem to be able to attach only one photo, but the previous item # is stamped on the tree base.

# Answer
Looking for the tree by descriptions "mega bloks cartoon tree" and "mega bloks happy tree" I came across this listing with photos of the set. It's from a Dora the Explorer set with 44 pieces.
> 8 votes

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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title: Small torso cracking

text:
# Question
Title: Small torso cracking
I have a ton of LEGO Minifigures I am putting up for sale on my Bricklink, but I just noticed almost every single figure looks as if there is a crack right under the arm starting at the armhole and ending right under it. It’s barely even there. It looks as if it’s part of the figure. I'm not sure what to do. I just wanted to reach out and see if this part is normal or not.

# Answer
As a buyer on Bricklink I expect used item to have some reasonable wear. However if there any visible or known imperfections they should be noted as this would change item condition from "used" to "damaged". And you don't want to end up in a situation your your customers complaining about wrong condition of items you have for sale and leaving negative feedback. Cracks, tooth marks, a lot of scratches, miscoloration, warping are all considered to be characteristics of "damaged" elements.

From my experience it is not worth selling damaged bricks unless they are very expensive and damage is somewhat manageable.
> 3 votes

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Tags: minifigures, repair
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# Question
Title: Little figurine identification - little grey robot with red eyes
I got this little fella from a thrift shop. I just thought it looked cool, but I have no idea which set it originates from. Can anyone help?

# Answer
As you can see from this search, of the four sets which contain three of these parts, none include all the parts. This must be someone's own creation (MOC) as identified by Alex.
> 8 votes

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Tags: set-identification, model-identification
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# Question
Title: Bag of LEGO pieces that I don't know - lots of earth tones, some black and grey
Do you guys know what these LEGO pieces are? Please tell me.

# Answer
> 13 votes
Based on

The only set on BrickLink with both of these seems to be 75318-1 The Child

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Can someone identify these Lego sets? White with large transparent blue walls
I am looking for some help to identify the sets to which these pieces belong. Have been searching for some time without luck… Any experts that can please assist? Thanks

# Answer
First one is from Arctic Mobile Exploration Base (60195) since there is only one more set that has more than 3 pieces of Trans-Light Blue Rock Panel 2 x 4 x 6 and that set doesn't have included white pieces.

The rest is from Defense of Crait (75202), which was easy to identify since there are just five sets (by the time of this answer) using Light Bluish Gray Brick, Round Corner 3 x 3 x 2 Dome Top.
> 15 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Railway track layout - is there a method to say if track layout meets up
I'd 2 circles of original blue railway track, lost 1 inner, bought mixed batch of track off eBay, as more inner than outer bought more track & to get discount 12 outer & 4 inner to bring N° of outer & inner = at 1 pair short of 4 circles. So I set myself the challenge of using all in 1 layout with no dead ends. I'm emptying old caravan so room there. 63 curved, 14 straight pairs, 2 crossing & 2 points.

My question, is there a maths equation or computer program to say if track layout meets up? Instead of trial-&-error method. R10L4XS2R8S1PR1XS2R12PXR1L2XR7S3R4S1R1S1P were R=right, L=left, S=straight, X=crossing & P=points.

Noticed in Ideas book, 3/4 circle, then 2 other way then 1 straight, Then other end 1 same way, then 3 other to become touch & parallel to other to go to points.

# Answer
> 3 votes
For software layout options there's BlueBrick as mentioned in this related answer

Alternatively both SCARM and Winrail support LEGO 4.5V and LEGO 9V layouts, while SCARM also supports LEGO RC:

SCARM Library List

WinRail Library

It's been a while since I've used either, but WinRail seems to be somewhat dormant now.

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Tags: trains
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# Question
Title: I found these parts but have no idea what sets - lots of grey and black, looks like Star Wars
Can anyone identify what sets these parts belong to?

# Answer
That dish in the baggie was only ever in one set: 7748 Corporate Alliance Tank Droid

The decorated windscreen below seems to be Windscreen 6 x 6 x 3 Canopy Half Sphere with Dual 2 Fingers with SW Sith Fighter Pattern which was only in one set: 9500 Sith Fury-class Interceptor

I wonder if that base on the lower left is 10186 General Grievous - UCS

The one at the top is cut off. But based on

* Dark Bluish Gray Tile, Modified 4 x 4 with Studs on Edge
* Dark Bluish Gray Wedge, Plate 4 x 2 Left
* Light Bluish Gray Technic, Liftarm, Modified Bent Thin L-Shape 3 x 3

The only set with all 3 seems to be 75104-1 75104-1 Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle

The one on the lower right with the orange seems to be a freezing chamber, but I might not know which one:

Based on

* Dark Bluish Gray Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with 1 Stud with Groove and Bottom Stud Holder (Jumper)
* Dark Bluish Gray Wedge, Plate 4 x 4
* Trans-Clear Plate 1 x 2

it would either be 75222-1 Betrayal at Cloud City or, more likely, 75137-1 Carbon-Freezing Chamber as Cloud City doesn't have any 32474 Black Technic Ball Joint which I think I see in the photo.
> 10 votes

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Tags: set-identification, star-wars
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# Question
Title: What is this 2x2 figure with a hollow base?
What is this 2x2 figure called? I want another one but I don't even know what to search for. Is it something before minifigures? Is it even LEGO?

# Answer
> 7 votes
I got some clues from my sister. It's not a boy, it's a girl. Basic Figure Finger Puppet Female (bfp001) from 1980's LEGO Basic set

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?M=4224c01#T=S&O={%22iconly%22:0}

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Tags: minifigure-identification
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