# Question
Title: How to integrate hardware/embedded button with LEGO?
I have two different buttons (B3F-1000 and 3a250vac switch) which I want to integrate into a LEGO "machine" which I'm powering with an Arduino. Since the rest is integrated into LEGO plates, I also want to do the same for the buttons, which means they need to be covered in LEGO, but still fit with the rest, which means no glue.

Looking for suggestions on how to attach LEGO parts in a way so the user pushes a LEGO part and it is registered by the button. It's a very tiny range of motion, so it doesn't need to move much in the process, and it's not a toggle button, which means every press will feel the same.

Picture with two common parts for scale.

# Answer
For the first switch I bent the legs of the button and splayed them out just a little bit.

Next I stripped off the caps of two Dupont connectors, ran them through the headlight bricks and connected the button upside down.

An axle will trigger the button. Either one with a stud on one end (and a 1x1 tile) or a regular one with a half bush.

A 2x2 brick on top serves as a button.

The second switch is a hacked light brick. They're very inexpensive on bricklink.

I took out the batteries and the LED (they're not soldered as they're meant to come apart) and replaced the one on the right with a metal contact.

For that I took a paper fastener, cut off one of its legs and bent it in an e shape.
> 7 votes

# Answer
Could you use one of the Lego touch sensors:

Here's a proof of concept modified 2x2 brick with a B3F tactile switch:
> 3 votes

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Tags: technic, building, design, electronics
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# Question
Title: Any list/database of sets and components online?
I'm searching for a list/site that show every public sets/and or individual components, with possibly their image representation attached.

I'm aware i could directly look on the main website, but i learned that a lots of old sets (pre 2000 to 2010 and later) are what you would call *rare* and can only be found by particular vendors, or sold as used on Ebay...

I'm mostly interested in their names and dimension/any details relevant to them, including rare/non-existing, and recent ones.

Any advice/input is welcome.

# Answer
Brickset has a nearly complete database of LEGO sets with inventories,

There is also Bricklink, which is a marketplace , but also can be uses an excellent database
> 3 votes

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Tags: lego-group
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# Question
Title: Does the LEGO (online) store ensure customers do not get repeated models in character packs?
I have ordered ten of the LEGO Super Mario character packs from the LEGO store online.

I would expect that the models in these packs to be distributed randomly, i.e. each pack has a 1-in-10 chance to include each of the ten models. However, having opened eight of the ten packs, I have received eight distinct models (I am only missing the bullet-bill and the Fuzzy).

The chances of this happening by random chance are small - I'm not 100% sure on the mathematics, but I think its about 1,8%.

Does anyone know if the (online) LEGO store systematically tries to make sure customers do not get repeats in random packs?

# Answer
> 4 votes
I think I can answer this question myself now.

I have ordered twice, ordering five character packs in each. Across each of the sets of five, all of the characters I received were unique. However, there were two models in common between the two sets of five.

As zovits and Phil B. suggested in comments, it looks like employees will simply grab the next packs you have ordered form the box. Inside the box the packs seem to be ordered, so it is very likely that you'll end up getting unique models, but not assured.

If you would like all ten models, and can afford it, order ten packs at once.

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Tags: lego-store
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# Question
Title: What components can be decorated in LDD?
I was recently working on a UCS Republic Gunship MOC and was wondering what pieces are the best ones to decorate. Meaning, I would like to put in tiles with prints to look like the Republic Insignia and I know that that print is not available. What is a list of pieces able to be decorated?

# Answer
> 2 votes
If you want to add custom decorations to your moc, the eastiest option is to use Stud.io

It has a partdesigner program that can be used to add custom decals

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Tags: ldd, moc
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# Question
Title: How can I complete the build of this Lunar lander from the Space and Airport Set (9335)?
We recently got Space and Airport Set by LEGO® Education (9335) for our four-year-old who loves space and really loves his Duplo. He's been enjoying putting together the different parts of the kit but we've run into a problem - for some reason, LEGO doesn't have instructions for a bunch of the elements in the set.

Inside the box, all of the pieces were bagged in unnumbered plastic bags but not by set, so we couldn't even guess which pieces were designed to go together. There's a card with all of the pieces included in the box, too, but not by set. There are instructions for four of the figures, one on each of four plastic cards, and there are a set of instructions on the website for another five of the more complicated ones. That's nine out of what I'm guessing is 16 different builds, meaning 7 are missing instructions.

Some of the items are easy to figure out because you can see or guess all of the pieces just by looking at the images - for example, the rocket. But we're a bit stuck on the Lunar Lander because there are no images of the reverse side. If all of the pieces had been grouped in one bag, we could have figured it out pretty easily, I think but, as is, we're stuck.

Here's the image of it that's included in the set (which I've taken from the LEGO site link above):

(Click to expand)

We started from the ground up and we've gotten this far:

(Click to expand)

I'm not certain that the dark grey pieces are correct but they seem correct enough, so I'm not too worried. But now we need help figuring out the upper half. We have the white 6x6 for the base but there seems to be something between the light grey angle pieces that we have and the white 6x6, but I'm not sure what it is.

My husband and I have both dug around some on the internet but other full-set lunar landers are all that we see in search. Does anyone have an instruction set or can make an educated guess for which pieces we should use to build the rest of this lander?

---

While I'm focusing on this specific set, there are other parts like the airport itself that also don't have any instructions I can find. LEGO usually seems so good about showing you how to build things - and particularly for an educational product that's supposed to be used in a classroom by several children - it seems odd that they don't have instructions for this.

## Links:

So, Brickfactory and Swooshable have the same six images - the front side of all five plastic cards in the box and the reverse of one of them.

# Answer
The best I could find in terms of instructions for 9335 is this page, which seem to contain all the prints included in the set. However Lunar lander is missing. It looks like one of those "inspiration" sets LEGO used to include in the old days. Looking at the pictures I found they are reasonable quality and model doesn't contain too many parts. So I gave a try building it digitally:

There are a few places like top white slopes, back Light Bluish Gray brick on top as well as 4x4 plate below first 6x6 white plate, where you couldn't tell the exact elements used. Apart from that everything seems to be pretty clear for me.

I could have shared the LDraw file as well, however not what would be the best way to do it here on SE.
> 9 votes

# Answer
Alex has rendered a great model.

I can only offer my own take by adding the LEM ascent engine.

These are the parts I used:

You can find the LDraw file in my git repository here.
> 5 votes

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Tags: building, instructions
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title: What glass piece is this?

text:
# Question
Title: What glass piece is this?
Does anyone know what this is?There is no identifier number, just 2-01.

# Answer
This is part 2060 - Windscreen 4 x 4 x 3 Canopy in Trans Black (Smoke)

Image from Bricklink

The part in that colour is only available in the Star Wars Slave I
> 14 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Does the Mario Starter Course require a smart device?
I've seen that the Mario Starter Course (71360) requires a smart device to play:

I'm trying to limit the amount of screen time that my child consumes, and I'm wondering exactly how required the smart device is for this set?

# Answer
Yes, a smart device is required. The box says the following:

> Smart device required but not included

However, this set is not like Boost, where the intelligent brick just adds weight to your model without a smart device. Mario functions without being paired to a smart device. He can complete the course, collect coins, etc.

The most significant limitation without a smart device is that you can't update the firmware on Mario. The current factory firmware is fairly limited. It was missing several of the sound effects present in the current firmware, but most importantly, **the factory firmware was able to recognize elements in the starter course only**. Any elements from expansion sets were not recognized, and Mario would display the Bluetooth icon indicating that a firmware update is needed instead of taking the expected action:

This is resolved by pairing Mario once with a smart device. These features are then permanently available without the need for a smart device to be present.

Another important limitation for many sets like this that require a smart device is that **there are no paper instructions in the box**. Instructions are certainly helpful, but these sets are meant to be adjusted and rebuilt. The courses are made of very simple elements that you can likely put together by looking at the box. This might be challenging for a small child, but if an adult is willing to help out, it is possible to put these together without the on-device instructions.
> 6 votes

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Tags: sets, electronics, super-mario
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# Question
Title: What did Lego set instruction manuals look like in the past?
Earliest date mentioned in this link is September 2008. Now knowing the age of Lego makes me want to know: what did Lego set instruction manuals used to look like? Because I am a millennial, that "Auto CAD" look is the look that I've always known to be the "Lego manual" look. When was this style first used? What did previous styles look like? How many previous incarnations of the Lego manual style have there been?

# Answer
> 39 votes
The earliest LEGO sets did not have any kind of instruction manuals, since they were sold as sets of building blocks, without any specific models in mind.

Exmaple: Set #7002, Automatic Binding Bricks from 1949

In 1955, the first sets have arrived that were intended to be built as some specific model, like 1237-2: Service Station

I can't find any instructions for this one, but two years later the 1306: VW Garage had four steps on the inside of the box to aid in building:

A newer example from 1965 is the 320: Airplane set, which had a four pages long instruction manual of which two pages were inspirational images of alternative builds:

Jumping another ten years ahead to 1975, we see that the instruction manual for 253-2: Helicopter and Pilot has a whopping 3 pages dedicated to the main build:

Further 10 years into the future, a representative set would be 107-2: Mail Truck, whose assembly instructions do not differ significantly, just get a bit more detailed:

By 1990 we get to the most complex style yet, with stepwise part lists and insets in insets for the Technic and the similarly complex Model Team lines, like for example the instructions for 5590: Whirl and Wheel Super Truck:

From there the style is basically unchanged, and the trend is to use fewer pieces per step, sometimes "sacrificing" a whole step just to show the model being flipped or rotated.

# Answer
> 8 votes
Based on my experience throughout pretty much the entirety of the **90s, they didn't really look all that different back then regarding the style**, what you would call the "Auto CAD" look I guess.

The primary differences are that they **didn't list all the required parts for each build step** (although Technic already did that back then, presumably because Technic was generally more complex than System), **nor did they highlight where the new parts were to be placed**. You basically had to visually compare the images of the previous step (or your actual build) and the new step and figure out which parts from the big pile (there weren't build step sorted bags either) you had to place where. Together with sets being smaller and (maybe, but that's hard to say) using more pieces per build step this generally made instructions *a lot* thinner than they are today. A 600 parts castle that would be regarded the peak of size and complexity (at least in System) in the early 90s basically had a 30 page instruction.

This might have made the instructions more difficult than they are today, but in general the sets also had fewer pieces and less complex building techniques. They were still sufficiently easy to follow, but today's instructions really are entirely foolproof (though, I don't have any experience with modern Technic sets).

# Answer
> 7 votes
The scans of vintage manuals you will find online do not do justice to the quality of the original printed copy.

The fans that have made these scans have done a great job but if you have not held one in real life it's impossible to adequately describe the difference.

The 8480-1 - Space Shuttle from 1996 is a Technic model is one of my favorite sets of build instructions for a "vintage" set.

It seems that there are several styles that The LEGO group uses depending on the intended audience for the instructions and what impressions they want the builder to have.

I believe that LEGO designs all aspects of their sets to provide an enjoyable experience for decades.

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Tags: instructions, history
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# Question
Title: Which 2018-2020 sets are good for roof parts?
What 2018-2020 sets are best for roof parts, such as corner slopes, 2x2 slopes, 2x4 slopes, etc.?

# Answer
> 7 votes
I would suggest to look into buying individual parts on Bricklink in desired color, shape and amount. Any other set you can buy most likely won't have all the parts you need and you are left with otherwise unnecessary elements.

If you really need a set with roof specific parts, the set I could think of now is Emmet's Dream House/Rescue Rocket (70831). Selection of slopes isn't ideal and color (blue) may not fit your need, however the amount of specific items is substantial compared to other sets. Newbury Haunted High School (70425) could also be a candidate for some number of slopes, but it is still rather limited.

Alternatively, you could look into creating your roof without using slopes. Take a looks at sets like 31078, 75954, 10267. You can build your roof with plates and tiles if used wisely.

# Answer
> 2 votes
You can try to get them from LEGO pick-a-brick searching for "roof" gives you quite a collection, but misses the ends and corners that are available, so add another search for "45°" to get them.

Combine this with Bricklink and buy whereever it is cheaper or where you can find the wanted quantities of desired elements.

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Tags: sets, slope
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title: Are these bricks old LEGO/Duplo clones?

text:
# Question
Title: Are these bricks old LEGO/Duplo clones?
Can anyone identify these bricks, which I suspect are LEGO clones. They may be more than 30 years old.

I bought them on ebay as Betta Bilda from LEGO/Duplo dealer. Some BB was included, but these are unknown to me, with an extensive BB collection.

The underside of the bricks is hollow and with apparently random numbers - they aren't part numbers because they are different for the same part and sometimes the same for different parts. Window frames have no top studs.

I took a good look through many posts with similar questions, but found nothing that matched. Many Google reverse images searches kept pointing at real LEGO/Duplo, before I noticed this place.

Usually I can identify unknowns like this, but these are a real challenge.

# Edit (Nov 29, 2019)

Some comments have asked for clarity on size of these bricks. The majority are close to if not identical to 8 stud LEGO, although there are also 2 and 4 stud bricks too. They clip to Betta Bilda pieces, in a similar way to authentic LEGO. The window frames appear to be confirmed by two comments as 1950-60 LEGO, but additional insight would still be appreciated.

# Answer
As suggested by @mindstormsboi I contacted LEGO customer services and sent them a link to this question as well as many additional photos. The information was passed to their expert team and the answer that came back was "they believe that these are not LEGO® parts". They were not able to identify them as a known clone type. I feel obliged to accept that as a definite answer, although it leaves unknown who actually manufactured the bricks I have. I will continue research into that question, but elsewhere.

The customer service team member also gave me two interesting links to a fan created website with some of the history of LEGO parts, as well as section covering many of the clones and similar brick building sets. I include the two links below, as they may be of interest to some who find this question and answer.

https://www.inverso.pt/legos/

https://www.inverso.pt/legos/clones/texts/mobitec.htm

Thank you to all who contributed their knowledge, experience or point of view.
> 4 votes

# Answer
From the LEGO Wikipedia Page "1961 and 1962 saw the introduction of the first Lego wheels, an addition that expanded the potential for building cars, trucks, buses and other vehicles from Lego bricks. Also during this time, the Lego Group introduced toys specifically targeted towards the pre-school market." here is a picture of these first-ever Duplo bricks from the 60's look similar?
> 1 votes

# Answer
I don’t exactly know if it is LEGO, But it may be an old version of LEGO. The numbers also could be the date the were made or a factory code.
> 0 votes

# Answer
I don't think they are LEGO due to the holes in the middle of the studs. LEGO pieces also say "LEGO" somewhere on them, so I bet that they are a 3rd party brand.
> 0 votes

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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title: Mystery LEGO bags

text:
# Question
Title: Mystery LEGO bags
I bought 3 sealed bags of LEGO at the second hand store. They are unopened but have no box/ instructions. I looked at some other threads here and tried to identify the sets using piece numbers and the Peeron site but haven't had luck. I'm hoping to post pictures here and hopefully someone can help me..... The first bag has a police theme, a robber and a bubble canopy window. I believe it's the complete set as the bag has no number. The other two are harder, they are numbered bags so obviously part of larger sets (both 6 so not part of the same set.....)

# Answer
> 9 votes
Found it, it's LEGO City Brickmaster, a book-set (ISBN-13: 978-1405356237),

How did I do it ? I used my trusted pyrebrickable, using a few pieces in the bottom right corner, and the only set that contains both black knit cap, white cap, and light bluish gray 1x1 cone is this one, numbered DKCity-1 in the rebrickable dataset.

Good building !

# Answer
> 1 votes
First picture has parts from Fire Station (60004) set. Identified by unique combination of Garage Roller Door Section without Handle in Trans-Light Blue and Brick, Modified 1 x 2 with Open O Clip Thick (Vertical Grip) in Yellow.

The other set has been correctly identified by rienafairefr.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: What are these "rail-style" LEGO pieces?
I have acquired several large bags of LEGO - most are the tradition bricks, but what kit are these (see photo) rail-type pieces from? They are identified on the reverse with a letter, such as "E", and a 1 or 2-digit number. Some of the rails contain small teeth the entire length - some are smooth.

# Answer
The rails with the "small teeth" are

Part No: 3230a , Train, Track Tapered Rail Curved Inside

Part No: 3229a Name: Train, Track Tapered Rail Curved Outside

Part No: 3228a Name: Train, Track Tapered Rail Straight 16L
> 6 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Is it possible to build a working 100% LEGO glider with the Technic Catamaran sails?
In the past I've tried to make working LEGO gliders but since all the LEGO sails were either too small or the wrong shape the only thing that ever kinda worked was using paper over Technic beams (in which case it's really the paper that's gliding, not the LEGO pieces).

Recently, LEGO has come out with some rather large plastic sails in their 42105 Technic Catamaran set, and I'm interested in trying to revive my old MOC idea.

Using the sails in the LEGO Technic Catamaran set, is it possible to make a 100% LEGO glider that really works?

# Answer
> 27 votes
As it turns out, the answer is yes! Even though the wings are flat and can't generate much lift, I was able to get up to about 15ft of distance on a 10ft drop.

click to watch the video

Here's how I did it:

First, you're going to need 2 of the set, or at-least two copies of the sails and some common Technic pieces. This is because the sails in the set are two different sizes (and I wasn't able to get a two-wing design to balance anyway).

the plastic sail sheet

Then you just build a really minimal and light-weight frame, with adjustable wing angles. Here's how I built mine, using only the parts from two copies of the set (click the images to view them larger):

glider top

glider bottom

You'll notice how this frame isn't very sturdy. Since the wings can't really generate lift anyway, there's no advantage to being able to throw it like a wooden or foam glider, and a stronger frame would just be dead weight.

The most-important thing about this design is being able to adjust the angle of the wings. Here's roughly the pitch that gave me the best results.

adjustable wing pitch

I gotta say, I didn't have high hopes for this project going into it, but ultimately I was pleasantly surprised with the results!

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Tags: piece-information, technic, moc, activity-support
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# Question
Title: Comparing LEGO® MINDSTORMS® Education EV3 Core Set with LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 Toy Robot Building Kit - 31313
LEGO® MINDSTORMS® Education EV3 Core Set is described briefly here EV3 Core Set

LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 Toy Robot Building Kit - 31313 is described here Robot Building Set

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As an adult who wants to experiment with robotics, I am interested in purchasing one or other of these. I want to compare what is in these sets in terms of components and relate that to price.

Despite having plenty of experience with online search generally, I'm having trouble doing a part-for-part comparison. I have tried searching Bricklink but can only find entries for individual parts rather than a complete parts list.

**Question**

I am not asking for someone to do all the work for me (although I wouldn't refuse!), I'd just like some guidance on how to find a complete list of parts for each of these sets - maybe a simple link to each.

# Answer
Here is a parts list for the CORE SET: https://brickset.com/sets/45544-1/Education-EV3-Core-Set

And here is a parts list for the Toy Robot Building Kit: https://brickset.com/sets/31313-1/Mindstorms-EV3

In the future, there is a good chance that Brickset has an inventory!
> 2 votes

# Answer
A year or two ago I got Mindstorms 31313, but I wanted to be able to build the models from the Education Core set too, so I put together a spreadsheet comparing the parts in each.

Here is a Google Sheet with the part lists and the union of the sets: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1-bsj9zYrhTREDUyOfGJm83c2htyJIUeL408NDJd\_jjM/edit?usp=sharing

Feel free to copy!
> 1 votes

# Answer
Rebrickable has an option to compare two sets, MOCs or combination of both to see which parts are in common and unique to each of set/MOC.

Here is a comparison results between both EV3 Core and retail EV3 versions. You can also spot the "v1" for 31313 set, which means there is more than one inventory known for this set, so this is something you can compare as well.
> 1 votes

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Tags: sets, set-database
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title: Wall Sconce Light

text:
# Question
Title: Wall Sconce Light
I'm trying to plan a few wall sconces for lighting as in this picture:

One thought I had was to put a transparent 2x2 round halfway into the wall with half of it hanging out and then put 2 quarter circle tiles on top. Does anyone have any better ideas?

# Answer
> 7 votes
Assuming you want this in minifigure scale, I would mount part 553c Brick, Round 2 x 2 Dome Top - Hollow Stud with Bottom Axle Holder x Shape + Orientation upside down in the wall, topped with a 18674 Tile, Round 2 x 2 with Open Stud in Black mounted right-side up. You will need to do some clever SNOTting to make that all fit, but an upside-down 3659 Brick, Arch 1 x 4 could hold the dome brick and the round tile can be held in place with a regular brick.

Here is how this would look like:

Note: technically this doesn’t fit (the dome sticks out of the top of the inverted arch brick by just a smidge too much) but due to tolerances you can make this work. I used a white dome brick because I didn’t have a trans-clear one handy.

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Tags: building, design
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title: Minifigure holding a cookie tray

text:
# Question
Title: Minifigure holding a cookie tray
I'd like to build a chef holding a flat tray to put cookies on. Is there a way to get a hand to clip to a large tile or something like that?

# Answer
> 8 votes
You could use this Serving Tray

Minifigure, Utensil Serving Tray, Rectangle

# Answer
> 6 votes
Surprised this hasn’t been mentioned in any of the other answers, but a Minifig hand is perfectly in system: it fits anything bar sized inside the hand, but the top of the hand is also the size of a regular stud, so it can and will connect to anything with an anti-stud hole, such as the bottom side of a 2x2 or 2x3 plate. Place the plate on the hand and you have the top studs to safely place bakery items onto without them moving around. This is used in many sets.

# Answer
> 4 votes
In addition to specific minfigure untensils for tablets and trays as shown in the other answers, you can as well just use an actual tile (or, for fixing the cookie, maybe a 2x2 jumper tile). Judging from existing sets, a minifigure holding a tile in their hand is a perfectly legal building technique. Of course if it's a tray rather than, say a smart phone, you probably want to rotate the hand sideways so that the tile lays flat with regards to ground level.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I have used a 1x1 stud plate (6141) and a disk or plate. These are found in almost every large-ish Star Wars set. I have also used a kitchen equipment piece (34172) that has a stud on the bottom. These should be found in some polybags or LEGO HOUSE sets. To hold it vertically, use a 25893 3.2 Shaft w. Knob stud. It has a small shaft for your cook minifig to hold as if he were holding an empty tray to go get loaded or cleaned. These can be found in many LEGO MINECRAFT sets.

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Tags: minifigures, design
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# Question
Title: Which set do these parts belong to? - Red Robot from 90s or early 00s?
Does anyone know the name of this set? I found these loose parts in a crate and I would like to piece the set back together.

I think I received this set either very late 90s or early 00s. (probably before 2005 if that helps)

# Answer
These are parts from the 7314: Recon Mech RP set, from the Life on Mars theme, released in 2001.
> 8 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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title: What part is a big blue hot tub piece?

text:
# Question
Title: What part is a big blue hot tub piece?
I was wandering around on Bricklink the other day and I found a very large round transparent blue (light or dark?) basin that could be used to do a hot tub party. I can't find it now. I think it was 10 X something. Does anyone know this part?

# Answer
> 9 votes
This one 47674  or this one 47674

These are X-POD containers.

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Looking for instructions for Air Canada Mega Bloks polybag 99911/99912
When I was a child I received a Mega Bloks airplane set on an Air Canada flight. I still have most of the pieces but cannot find the instructions.

The closest I can find is this eBay image of 99913 but I'm looking for the other sets shown on the bag.

Anyone have an image of these set instructions?

# Answer
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Mega-Bloks-1997-Air-Canada-99911-New-Sealed-Fast-Shipping-/363045948319 has images, one of which is the back of the bag, which shows the instructions.
> 3 votes

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Tags: instructions, clone-brands
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title: Angry birds arms

text:
# Question
Title: Angry birds arms
Is it possible to attach the Angry Birds arms to a regular minifigure, or is the attachment pin different?

# Answer
I got hold of an Angry Bird, and can confirm the arms are totally interoperable.
> 2 votes

# Answer
I don't have any Angry Birds components, but comparing these pictures:

they look at least similar in construction and scale, so I'd bet they are compatible.
> 0 votes

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Tags: minifigures
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# Question
Title: How to import Rebrickable.com parts lists to LDraw?
I have exported all of the parts that I have entered into Rebrickable as a `.pbg` file. I also have a `.xml` file from Rebrickable that is for BrickLink.
I was told that I could just import the document into LDraw and then I could build projects just using the parts that I already owned.

I have LDCad and MLCad installed from the LDraw AIOI.

Is there any way to import these files as an LDraw parts list?

# Answer
I don't think you "import the document into LDraw" since I don't think there is an LDraw program; it's a library of all parts. CAD programs manipulate those parts.

I tried various CAD programs over the years and recently found that LDCad (which you say you recently installed) works for me. So what you want to do is to import your Rebrickable parts list into LDCad as a parts library. Then, indeed, it's much easier to play with LDCad when you don't have to paw through the entire LDraw library looking for parts; you just go through your subset of parts.

Two years ago when I found LDCad I wanted a parts library restricted to just the parts in a specific LEGO kit so I kept notes and posted my experience. I still use it.
> 5 votes

# Answer
1. Export parts as "LDCad Parts Bin PBG" from rebrickable

2. Take the exported .pbg file and place it in %appdata%\LDCad\partBin\default\sets (and possibly add a png image too) (ref from here)
3. Find your parts in LDCad parts bin under "Part listings of Lego sets"
> 2 votes

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Tags: ldraw
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# Question
Title: Can somebody identify what part is being used as a vase in this picture?
I'm not even sure if it's Lego. I'm quite the novice, so... little help?

# Answer
That would be part 30106 Minifigure, Utensil Crystal Ball Globe 2 x 2 x 2.

It has a small indentation on top, which is probably how they were able to balance it in that picture.
> 11 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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title: ID LEGO's in sealed bag?

text:
# Question
Title: ID LEGO's in sealed bag?
Help please with this sealed bag of LEGO? It has the number 4 on it and I see purple pieces inside.

# Answer
> 5 votes
That polybag is from The Ender Dragon (21117), the set with the most of round plate 1x1 in Dark Purple \[BL\].

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: What all fits into 4532 "Container, Cupboard"?
On Bricklink, the entry for 4532 (a container) lists several parts that fit, but it currently doesn't even list 4536 (a drawer). What else fits into 4532? Better yet, what are some "illegal" techniques that can be used with 4532? Is there something that can be used as a flat panel in conjunction with a single 4536?

# Answer
> 3 votes
The door that is listed as compatible can be attached with its handle inside to make a smooth surface at the front. It could become hard to open however.

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Tags: building
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# Question
Title: How do the various LEGO springs compare?
Recently I received set 42107 Ducati Panigale V4 R.

I noticed that this set includes a new spring - part 65151c01 Technic, Shock Absorber 11L with Internal Spring, Dark Bluish Gray Shaft, and Light Bluish Gray Tip \- as well as a “regular” spring - part 731c04 Technic, Shock Absorber 6.5L \- Hard Spring.

Part 65151c01:

Part 731c04:

Why did LEGO create this new spring, and what makes it different from other LEGO springs?

# Answer
Over the years the LEGO group has made a number of different springs, dampers and suspension components. The most widely known ones are the springs in the 731 series, such as the above mentioned 731c04 (Hard Spring) and its cousins 731c05 (Normal Spring) and 731c06 (Soft Spring), but there are other more specialized springs as well, such as 32181 (which comes in a soft and normal spring version) and even this “cute” little brick-sized spring (part 2695c01 Brick, Modified 1 x 2 x 2 1/3 with Spring Unit (Shock Absorber)):

Let’s take a look at the two springs from set 42107, and compare them with a few of the above mentioned ones, namely 731c05 (Technic Shock Absorber 6.5L with Normal Spring in Light Gray), 731c06 (Technic Shock Absorber 6.5L with Soft Spring in Teal) and 32181c04 (Technic, Shock Absorber 10L Damped - Soft Spring in Trans-Clear).

Here are these 5 springs side-by-side:

As you can see, there is some variance in dimensions. From left to right, the springs length in studs is 11, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5, and 10 respectively. Note that the three 731-series springs are 1 brick wide, whereas 32181 and 65151 are 2 bricks wide at their widest point, with 65151 being asymmetrical due to the top connection point sitting 1 brick lower than the top, and offset by 1 brick from the main shock absorber shaft.

Now let’s look at how far these springs compress:

It was quite the struggle to get this group picture taken, as the power exerted by each spring was almost too much for the Technic pins holding them in place (and the half-a-stud offset of 731 is a bit of a challenge). As you can see, the compressed length of these shock absorbers is (from left to right) 9 studs, 5.5 studs, 5.5 studs, 5.5 studs and 7 studs.

So there are more differences: while the 731-series only compresses by 1 stud, 65151 compresses by 2 studs, and 32181 even compresses by 3 studs (even though the uncompressed shock is 1 stud shorter than 65151!).

Finally, let’s see how stiff these springs really are. As I am not a physicist, nor a mechanical engineer, my test setup is a bit archaic, but using baking weights I hoped to get an idea of how much weight it takes to fully compress the spring in each shock absorber. Here are some shots of various shocks undergoing testing:

The new absorber from 42107 (part 65151):

One of the 731 series springs (part 731c04 in this case):

As you can see, some shocks needed more weight to fully compress than provide by my wife’s entire collection of baking weights, so I had to resort to more drastic solutions, such as adding dental guard cleaning powder jars.

The results of this test surprised me - it turns out that (at least with the springs I tested) the normal and soft spring versions of 731 both take about 500-600g of weight to fully compress. I had expected the soft spring version of 731 (731c06) to be able to carry less weight than the normal spring version (731c05), but my test shows it was able to carry a bit MORE weight than its Normal spring cousin.

With my methodology (placing too much weight on the springs, and then slowly removing weight until the spring started lifting the contraption up again) both 32181c04 and 731c04 handled up to 1.1kg in weight, while the other springs handled about half that weight.

Net, the front shock absorbers (there are 2 shocks in the front fork) in 42107 have the same combined strength as the single shock absorber in the back, but they have different features - the front absorbers can travel 2 studs while the back absorber only travels 1 stud), and due to its offset connection point the front absorber (65151c01) has a rotational ability that the traditional 731 series shock absorbers miss. Also, as 65151c01 is manufactured with 3 different colors (pearl gold for the upper part, dark bluish gray for the shock and light bluish gray for the lower connection point) it blends better into the build of the Ducati Panigale. So why did LEGO create this part? Likely because it needed to look like the actual bike’s suspension, and no existing and in-production spring had the characteristics and looks needed to make the front assembly look proper.

Finally, a few notes about part 32181. Did you know:

* Even though it has a soft spring, it is able to withstand the same weight as the Hard spring version of 731?
* It is a damped spring, so where the other springs jump back to their uncompressed state almost instantaneously, 32181c04 (and 32181c05) take about a second to do so.
* Out of all the springs I’ve tested, 32181 is the only spring that allows for rotation on its main axis, which allows you to turn the lower connection point out of alignment with the upper connection point. This can be very useful for constructions where the shock absorber needs to connect to 2 parts that are perpendicular to each other.

Here are the full test results, for those who are interested:

Transcription:

```
         |                                                     | Spring Type
65151c01 | Technic, Shock Absorber 11L with Internal Spring... | Gold
731c04   | Yellow Technic, Shock Absorber 6.5L - Hard Spring   | Yellow
731c05   | Technic, Shock Absorber 6.5L - Normal Spring        | Grey
731c06   | Technic, Shock Absorber 6.5L - Soft Spring          | Teal
32181c04 | Technic, Shock Absorber 10L Damped - Soft Spring    | Clear

         | Length (studs) | Length (cm) | Compressed (studs) | Compressed (cm)
65151c01 | 11             | 8.8         | 9                  | 7.2
731c04   | 6.5            | 5.2         | 5.5                | 4.4
731c05   | 6.5            | 5.2         | 5.5                | 4.4
731c06   | 6.5            | 5.2         | 5.5                | 4.4
32181c04 | 10             | 8           | 7                  | 5.6

         | Platform Weight (g) | Load Weight | Total Weight (g) | Notes
65151c01 | 19.82               | 513         | 533              | Offset connection
731c04   | 19.82               | 1126        | 1146             |
731c05   | 19.82               | 531         | 551              |
731c06   | 19.82               | 643         | 663              |
32181c04 | 19.82               | 1081        | 1101             | Slow release (damped), able to rotate

```
> 34 votes

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Tags: piece-information, technic, part-database, activity-support
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title: What are these minifigures?

text:
# Question
Title: What are these minifigures?
Does someone know what theme or set these minifigures are from?

# Answer
First one is Ultron Sentry from Iron Man vs. Ultron (76029) set.

Second is a minifigure made with torso and legs from Duros Alliance Fighter, Jet Pack, Minifigure, Headgear Helmet SW Hoth Rebel Trooper, Minifigure, Visor Snow Goggles and unknown head. All come in Rebel Alliance Battle Pack (75133) most likely since it contains all parts and similar head piece seen in your picture.

Last one is Aaron - Flat Silver Visor, Clip, Curved Slope and Tow Ball on Back, without the slope and tow ball on the back it seems. It is from Moltor's Lava Smasher (70313)
> 6 votes

# Answer
The third one is Aaron from Nexo Knights. The first is an Avengers character. The second is likely Star Wars.
> -1 votes

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Tags: minifigure-identification
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# Question
Title: Motorized speedboat from Technic Catamaran alternate model?
The alternate model for the 42105 Technic Catamaran set looks a lot like a remote-controlled speedboat.

This set doesn't actually come with any motors, or even propellers, so obviously this model isn't functional. So what would it take to make a motorized RC speedboat from this set?

# Answer
> 18 votes
With a few Power Functions elements and a pair of propellers, I was able to build a motorized boat similar to the alternate model.

# See it in action!

click to watch the video

# Pictures

floating, side view

floating, front view

# Close-up pictures on how it's built

propeller motor closeup

center structure closeup

# Conclusion

Overall it works pretty well, and the hulls are surprisingly resistant to water leaking inside of them. The only major issue is that direct sunlight can interfere with the IR receiver at a distance. As an alternative, the IR receiver and remote could be substituted with something third-party like an S-Brick (uses Bluetooth). I didn't have any of the smaller and lighter LEGO Powered UP controller and motors, but with some redesigning that could also be an option (also Bluetooth).

I also hope that someday LEGO will make some propellers which are a better size/shape for use with water, and maybe this boat could go a little faster!

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Tags: piece-information, technic, moc, activity-support
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# Question
Title: Articulations : which technique to use on small constructions for sturdiness?
So I have been using *LEGO®* for a rather long time and over the years, I started going towards small constructions. While doing this, I began building rather small robots (*Mobile Frames* for those who know), between ~8cm and ~11cm or approximately 8 to 11 studs.

Those mechs I build are articulated and I want them to have as many articulations as possible (*e.g.* a leg should have a hip, a knee and an ankle, not only a hip).
The problem is the sturdiness of the whole construction. I have tried multiple options and the articulations are often either too weak to stay in position correctly or too fragile to support other parts, leading to structure vulnerability and eventually *destruction* of either portions of or the whole robot.

My question is the following : do you know any **compact yet sturdy articulation building technique** or any small articulation part ?
Bonus : if you can provide a method allowing me to build more or less *on* the articulation (not sure if that's very clear).

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*EDIT* : For posing reasons, the articulation needs to have some 'friction' to keep a specific angle.

---

Should there be any problem with the question (wrong formulation, bad English, need for clarification), please don't hesitate to point it out.

# Answer
> 5 votes
The AT-ST & Endor (9679) uses cogged connectors (4210884 \+ 4211803, I don't know if the combination of both parts has a name) for the legs. These connectors are pretty strong for their size, they may be sturdy enough for your model if it's not too heavy.

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For bigger constructions and higher degrees of freedom, beam with balls and cups can be used, they allow rotations and movements in two axis. For example, the *Beam A 5M Ball/Cup Ø10.2* (they are other similar parts on Bricklink):

For example, General Grievous (75112) arms and legs can be adjusted in many ways:

# Answer
> 3 votes
You could use the plate ball and cup joints like 6043656 and 4329654 (and a few other parts with balls that will fit)

These parts:

One caveat though, brick #2 from the left does not have much sturdiness in holding joints together. 1, 3, and 6 are good though.

# Answer
> 1 votes
I think the best technique for building a sturdy Lego structure is to start with a wide and big base and then stack up with smaller bricks. I took part in a Lego challenge and one of the challenges was to build a big Lego tower. So, I decided to start with a big base. Then, I built up with smaller bricks. When I did my test to see which was the best, I found out that a bigger base is better. I also am doing a science fair on which Lego structure is strongest when dropped. I haven't done it yet but I believe that a square base will be the strongest instead of the other bases I have chosen. I love building with Legos but a big pet-peeve is when they break. That is why I am doing my science fair experiment to see which structure is the best. I will let you know when I have my data.

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Tags: building
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title: Help identifying LEGO set

text:
# Question
Title: Help identifying LEGO set
Anyone recognizes these parts?

I have a LEGO set with no instructions and no box and I’m trying to see what set it is so I can download the instructions.

# Answer
> 2 votes
I agree with Alex that it's not from one set. According to BrickLink, the torso only appears in Atlantis sets, but that rock panel isn't in any Atlantis sets in DkBlGrey or DkGrey

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Tags: set-identification
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title: EV3 Folder not appearing on Windows

text:
# Question
Title: EV3 Folder not appearing on Windows
I am attempting to load a UF2 file into an EV3 robot, however when I plug everything in, nothing appears. Windows recognises that a device has been plugged in, and it even appears in the Device Manager, however it doesn't point to a file folder.

# Answer
This is from https://makecode.mindstorms.com/troubleshoot

Check that you have the newest firmware; on the EV3 brick:

1. Go all the way to the right to the wrench tab
2. Go all the way down to the menu called 'Brick Info'
3. The information dialog that appears should say something like:

Brick FW: v1.10E

If you have a version which is less than this, then you need to upgrade. Unfortunately, this can only be done from the very buggy EV3 Manager at https://ev3manager.education.lego.com/
> 1 votes

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Tags: ev3
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# Question
Title: Does LEGO generally restrict the sale of LEGO sets in a country?
I live in Israel where LEGO are available but for insane prices. Generally 5X the price of a LEGO set online. I have called LEGO asking to have a LEGO set shipped to me, and they have told me that they will not ship directly. When purchasing from online sites, they tell me they can not ship to Israel.

Is this common practice internationally?

# Answer
> 5 votes
This is probably due to an "exclusive importation and sales agreement". An exclusive importation agreement means that the manufacturer (Lego, in this case), gives some importer exclusive rights to sell their products in some country. In Israel, Lego has such an agreement with "Ilanit Toys Ltd.", and I guess they don't want to (or legally can't) infringe on the importer's sales.

# Answer
> 5 votes
The LEGO Online Store states that it can deliver to:

> Your LEGO® order can be shipped direct to you or a friend/relative in select countries within Europe and even to North America and Asia/Pacific.

The list of shipping locations includes:

I guess they have their reasons for not including Israel in that list - presumably it's either because of excessive handling/customs fees or shipping reliability - I'm guessing that's more the issue rather than other sites being told they can't send LEGO (specifically) to Israel.

I found a guide for eBay sellers planning on shipping to Israel written by a user here which talks more about the customs issues.

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Tags: shopping
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# Question
Title: Castle set identification (photo from 1993)
Is this photo an actual set ? If yes which one, and if not, any idea what it's based upon ? (if it's not a canon set, my own research suggest that's it's made from 6085 but I'm not sure).

# Answer
> 9 votes
I have identified a unique part, to help with search - Panel 2 x 5 x 6 Wall with Window with Window Stones Light Gray Pattern which has been used here.

It has been used in just two sets listed seen below, none of which look like your model

Black Monarch's Castle (6085) from 1988:

Black Knight's Castle (6086) from 1992:

So it seems like someone made a great MOC back in the days!

# Answer
> 2 votes
This is pretty clearly a MOC created by combining elements from multiple Castle sets. None of the castle sets were nearly this large for one thing. The only pieces that are distinctive are the shields and the black castle window panel pieces which are from the Black Knights sub-theme. From the size of it, I'd say this is 3 or 4 castles put together.

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Tags: set-identification, castle
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title: How do I identify a LEGO part?

text:
# Question
Title: How do I identify a LEGO part?
Over the vast years of collecting bricks of various sizes and sets, I find that during my free builds I run low on a specific type of brick. How can I go about identifying what the brick is named and what resources are available for this identification process?

# Answer
> 45 votes
# Check for visible part numbers

This usually only works if you have the physical part in front of you.

Look for a 4 or 5 digit part ID on the element. These are usually printed on the inside. A magnifying glass and good lighting can be helpful. Many bricks will also have other numbers printed on them, but only the 4 or 5 digit numbers are useful for identifying parts.

If you are able to find a part number, search for it on Rebrickable or Bricklink. Rebrickable tends to work well, as it allows you to search by the official Lego part ID printed on the brick, and this number can be different from the Bricklink ID for historical reasons.

# Check a set inventory

If you know which set your part comes from, or you know of a set that contains the part, you can look at the inventory of that set on Rebrickable or Bricklink. Simply visually scan the inventory for the part you need to identify.

# Search a part catalog

You can search for parts on a number of sites. For example, Rebrickable provides searching by part name, ID, category, and a color that the part has been produced in. This can help produce a relatively small number of parts to look through.

Taking some time to familiarize yourself with the part categories on whichever site you choose to use is also very useful so that you can quickly limit your search to a few hundred parts in one category.

# Ask us

If you don't know... just take a pic of it and ask here, we'll find it :-)

# Answer
> 4 votes
Reverse image searches are the best tool I have found for this purpose.

AI and image recognition have come a long way in recent years and are effective and free to use from the convenience of your smartphone.

A reverse image search uses a photo of an object and then searches the web for image matches. This is perfect for part identification, especially since Bricklink has images for almost every part. Many times the Bricklink part page will be one of the results, but even when it is not, the links often contain a part name that can be plugged into Bricklink to find the part and then find the sets is it a part of.

If you have an Android phone, Google Lens is a fantastic choice. (Note: The Play store is region-specific so you may need to do a manual search for "Google Lens" if the link does not work for you.

If you have an iPhone then I believe you can still use Google Lens via the Google Photos app. See this link for details.

**A tip**: These apps work best if the part is placed on a plain background. A white table or box lid works best and makes sure the part is well lit.

**An ask**: If you find this answer helpful, the next time a part identification question is posted, please link to this answer, then hopefully more people will be able to 'help themselves'. Of course, feel free to help the OP with identifying their part also :-)

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Tags: piece-information, part-identification
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title: Identifying some LEGO figures

text:
# Question
Title: Identifying some LEGO figures
I just bought my kid these awesome LEGO figures. Can anyone identify them, since we are looking up their building instruction.

Thank you

# Answer
Three of those sets are from "Legends of Chima" series and one is from "Hero Factory".

CHI Gorzan (70202)

CHI Fluminox (70211)

Frost Beast (44011)

CHI Laval (70200)
> 5 votes

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Tags: set-identification, chima
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# Question
Title: Lubricating train axles - which oil to use?
I have a lot of old (80s grey era and 90s 9v) trains. Some of the wheels squeak and many have quite a bit of friction. Sometimes this friction causes the locomotive to detach from the rollingstock since the friction of the wheels on long trains is greater than the magnetic force between the couplers.

I searched this site and the closest match I could find is: How to lubricate the 4.5v train motor for set 7722? It mentions using 'plastic safe oil' but does not specify a brand. This warning is echoed across the model train internet and some (non-Lego) discussions have recommended using a full-synthetic motor oil applied via a needle oiler.

The linked question is specific to the motor and gears that are likely to be designed to be lubricated vs wheel axles that are not. I was going to use 3in1 oil but the consensus seems to be that this is a bad idea because it is a petroleum derivative.

Does anyone have any first-hand experience of a 'plastic safe' oil that they have used on their Lego? I would think any oil would work to lubricate the axles but I want to be sure it will not damage the plastic over time.

# Answer
Generally for this sort of thing the recommendation is a "light machine oil" (the wording from the Hornby Maintenance sheets). These are "non-penetrating" and so won't damage the plastics which might happen with 3-in-1 or WD-40 style oils.

This can often be found as "Sewing Machine Oil".

Fleischmann (a model railway brand) sell their own "Special Lubricating Oil" (FM6599) for use on their and other trains, that is usually widely available, but is probably somewhat more expensive than a general purpose machine oil.
> 2 votes

# Answer
Petroleum based lubricants you need to be careful with, since they can act as solvents. Zhaph mentioned non-penetrating machine oil, this sounds like a safe bet. If you are in doubt, grab a gnawed brick and submerge it in a sample for a few days and see what happens before putting it on your precious train parts. Science!

Second hand info:

I have heard that some silicone based lubricants might be really good for Lego, since they can soak in and are unlikely to react with the ABS. Might be worth a test if you are really serious about low friction/wear in your trains?
> 1 votes

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Tags: trains, plastics, safety, preservation
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# Question
Title: What kind of soap can I use to clean LEGO?
I have some LEGO bricks I would like to clean some old sets and parts I bought from Brick Owl.

So I would like to know what soap is the safest for cleaning the LEGO parts I was thinking maybe soft soap or something.

By the way, I won’t be cleaning printed or stickered LEGO.

# Answer
The official guidance from The LEGO group suggests using a mild detergent.

> Cleaning your LEGO® bricks is really easy! We recommend that you clean your LEGO® parts by hand using water no hotter than 104°F / 40°C and a soft cloth or sponge.\** Higher temperatures may affect the quality of the parts. **You can add a mild detergent to the water** \- please rinse them well with clear water afterwards and you're done!
>
> A word of warning! Please don't put your LEGO® pieces in the washing machine or dishwasher, and don't try to dry them in the oven, the microwave or with a hair dryer. When the bricks get really hot they may change shape, which means they won't work anymore!

Cleaning your LEGO® bricks

In most cases warm water is enough to clean LEGO bricks, some soap can help remove tougher stains, dirt and smells.

Examples of mild detergent include liquid hand or dish washing soap, as opposed to things like bleach and ammonia which are irritating and corrosive to the skin which may damage bricks.

Mild detergent should be enough to both clean and sanitise.
> 4 votes

# Answer
Dishwasher Powders - Nope! These contain abrasives that will scratch up your bricks.

Liquid Dish Soap - Probably anything goes here. Lemon scented bricks, Mmmmmmm!

Head soap - Most anything here, but avoid stuff like liquid lava w/ pumice.

Laundry Soap - Seems to work fine, I have filled entire wading pools with water, Lego, and laundry soap to clean vast quantities all at once. This is your economy of scale if you have to wash a lot efficiently.

Bleach & Water - Not a great solution, unless you are just briefly dunking it. Bleach will clean very well, but if you leave it soaking for hours or days, Lego slowly absorbs the bleach and swells very slightly causing the bricks to gain clutch power. Not a bad plan if you want to put some stick in your old bricks, but experiment carefully before you commit. This swelling doesn't seem to cause any long term damage.

H2o2 + Oxyclean - This will 'lighten' UV damaged bricks, but I haven't had much success with it. It takes a long soak to accomplish it, though. There are many pages on the Intarwebz talking about how this works.

Petrochemicals - These are in general risky, as they can act a solvents for ABS. Test before use. Except for....

Goo-Be-Gone - I have use this on all types of Lego, and it is perfectly safe to drench on. Great for getting rid of sticker goo.

Warm water is fine, but water \> 130F starts to get risky, aside from burning yourself, thinner types of plastics start to bend and warp. Watch out for things like base-plates which are particularly vulnerable here.

Running Lego through a dishwasher is probably not a good idea, they generally use pretty hot water to kill germs, and the heat exposure isn't brief.

Also, be aware that Lego isn't one type of plastic. It is mostly ABS, but there are other things like windshields mixed in, along with differing formulas of ABS. Heat and chemical tolerances will vary.
> 1 votes

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Tags: cleaning
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# Question
Title: Is this an error in the updated Harry Potter Diagon Alley build/instructions?
In the book 1 directions for the 2020 Diagon Alley set (see pp. 43ff), I've run into the following issue:

In building the back of Ollivander's shop, we seem to be building some type of shelving unit:

Notice that the pieces just added stick out from the back a bit.

But later, the directions state to place the back of this shelving unit flush with an already-built wall:

This isn't confusion regarding perspective; later we see that we are to connect this shelving unit with the wall:

But how are we supposed to make this shelving unit flush with the wall if there are parts that stick out of the back of the shelving unit? Note that the wall is a single solid piece with no holes for these parts to stick into.

I've considered moving Ollivander's desk so that I can move this shelving unit forward (to the left), but this then prevents connecting the structural beam from the staircase to the wall (see step 108 in the directions; my image is too large to share). Moving his desk also prevents the staircase from rotating into the shop.

Am I missing something, or is this indeed an error? If it is an error, how have others solved this issue?

Note that we can't just move those pieces in the shelving unit so that they don't stick out; doing so prevents us from building the shelving unit, because the nubs on top of those "sticking-out" bricks gets in the way of the shelves snapping into place. Neither can be omit these pieces and slide them in later, because the nub from the pieces beneath them get in the way.

# Answer
> 24 votes
The wall behind the shelving unit is not a standard wall built with regular LEGO bricks, but a panel, which is hollow on one side.

The parts that are sticking out at the back of the bookshelf are accommodated by the hollow of the panel.

My guess is that you attached the panel backwards with the flat side facing in, instead of out. Look at Page 37/Step 48 where the panel is attached. The hollow part should be facing in.

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Tags: building, instructions, harry-potter
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# Question
Title: Trying to identify a mystery set, mostly black and dark grey
I purchased a lot from Facebook that included a few fully complete with box sets as well as two bags with what certainly appears to be a full set. I started adding several of the more unique ones to rebrickable, but I either need to add a lot more, or I'm doing it wrong. This is my first time at this, so either is entirely possible.

Any ideas or leads would be appreciated. So far I'm leaning towards a Sith Star Wars or Batman kit given the colors. The assembled piece has a twin that is pretty much identical. The only unique pieces I found were a cockpit dashboard thing and the windshield design. The rest were sticker free, and there were no figures included.

# Answer
> 2 votes
I don't know if that is a cohesive set, but all the parts scream 2005 era Star Wars.

There is a x-wing canopy that gives me that idea, but the real smoking gun is the color combination of parts. There appears to be a lot of old (warm) dark grey, prior to Lego changing to the more (cool) bley they use today.

I think its just stray parts from that era. Enjoy all that classic dark grey, its great for mixing in with modern greys.

# Answer
> 0 votes
While the last image looks like a partial build of an official set, the Slope 45° 4 x 4 Double with Hinge - Black piece was only ever released in 4 sets, none of which have the windscreen piece mentioned by Roger. Therefore the collection can't belong to a single official set.

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Automating self built models

text:
# Question
Title: Automating self built models
I have just started with Lego, building the excavator with the 2 Bluetooth hubs. Can I program a model I build using this type of hub and motors or do I require EV3 (if indeed EV3 allows you to control motors in a non-robotic setup)? The phone app only seems to give you Lego's own models, and no program blocks.

# Answer
I'm assuming you are using the Control+ app with the 42100 liebherr r 9800 set. The Control+ app is indeed limited to the fixed models. However the Powered Up app can also connect to the Control+ hub and supports it reasonably well. The Powered Up app has a "Create" mode where you can use programming blocks, it's similar to the Scratch educative programming environment. You'll easily find the app in your app store on your device.

Note that contrary to EV3, Spike Prime or the new robotics set, code runs mostly on your smart device. I.e. you cannot operate your model without your smart device. However, the micro-controller on the Control+ smarthub (Or the Powered Up or Boost smarthub for that matter) is powerful enough to run a version of MicroPython. This is used in the Pybricks project, which allows you to code the smarthub directly in Python. https://pybricks.com/about/
> 3 votes

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Tags: programming, bluetooth, automation
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# Question
Title: Has Lego discontinued presenting alternate configurations on the backs of modern boxes?
When I was younger, the backs of my Castle/Space Lego set boxes showed alternate model builds for the supplied pieces, configurations not detailed in the instruction manual. I appreciated these creative ideas, showing me other things I could make with the pieces; I found them inspiring and sometimes challenging as they were presented without instructions. The inclusion of these models made me keep clippings from the boxes in order to replicate designs.

Today, it seems that alternate model designs are no longer presented on the backs/sides of Lego boxes.

Has Lego discontinued this practice, and why? Has it been dropped entirely for all sets, or is it simply not done for "licensed" sets (Batman, Star Wars, etc.).

# Answer
I don't have enough reputation to post a comment, but in response to this comment by user3509 (and the similar answer from MartenFerret):

> I would also hazard a guess that for brand sets part of the deal was that alternate models weren't allowed for copyright reasons - for example, a Star Wars X-Wing set can only build an X-Wing. Lego then probably made all sets follow the same design pattern for their own brand cohesion.

The original 7140 X-Wing model released in 1999 *did* have the traditional alternate builds shown on the back of the box:

So if it's a licensing-based decision, it was a later one.
> 8 votes

# Answer
I don’t have an answer to why they stopped, but this site is trying to get instructions together for all the old stuff. www.backoftheboxbuilds.com
> 6 votes

# Answer
I believe the reason is purely commercial. Why would parents buy another box of bricks if there are pictures of so many things their kid can build with only one set?

Nowadays there are no alternate models on backsides of boxes. Instead, there are some teaser pictures of other sets, and sometimes a message saying "Collect them all!"

Isn't it rather obvious?

Anyone of the same opinion?
> 2 votes

# Answer
I do believe the LEGO Group has limited the instructions to only one build, not including the sets that are meant to re-build differently (in this case there are 3 instruction sheets).

If instead of actually rebuilding the set you mean alternate views (like the back of a model, or the unfolded model, etc.) this still applies to most sets that have an inside, unfold, etc.
> 1 votes

# Answer
Most sets are licensed. If Lego, say, offered alternate models for Star wars sets, each alternate would need to be approved by disney ...which costs money Lego wouldn't know a return on.
> 0 votes

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Tags: sets, design, discontinued
---


# Question
Title: Identify rug pieces in this library scene
Can anyone identify the roundish pieces that make up the rug in this scene?

# Answer
> 16 votes
It's hard to tell for sure, but I believe that it is Bar Holder with Clip (11090).

The size and shape look about right to me, and it is widely available in those colors.

---
Tags: part-identification
---


title: Identify this bridal dress torso

text:
# Question
Title: Identify this bridal dress torso
Can anyone identify this brides dress torso:

I've searched on Bricklink for dress, white dress, and bridesmaid, but couldn't find it. I also have 1 in my collection but would like to buy more.

# Answer
> 13 votes
Keyword for this torso on Bricklink is "flower".

Torso Female Wrapped Dress with Pink Flower Pattern / Yellow Arms / Yellow Hands

It was used just for Fairy from Series 8 of Collectable Minifigures:

---
Tags: part-identification
---


title: What are these minifigures

text:
# Question
Title: What are these minifigures
Does anyone know what these minifigures are or what sets they are from?

Thanks.

# Answer
> 6 votes
The top figure is

for the second figure, see the answer of shea

# Answer
> 3 votes
The first figure is Justin Hammer, from the LEGO Marvel Super Heroes line. He only appeared in one set, 76077 Iron Man: Detroit Steel Strikes.

The second figure is from the LEGO Nexo Knights theme. There are a number of figures that share the same head, torso and legs. It could be:

* a Shrunken, which appeared in 4 sets and had an additional headpiece
* a Gargoyle, which appeared in 2 promotional sets and had the headpiece in addition to a neck attachment and wings
* a Stone Stomper, which included the neck attachment without wings and appeared in only one set
* a Stone Giant, which appeared in a single promotional set and had a different headpiece and neck attachment to the other figures.

---
Tags: minifigures, minifigure-identification
---


# Question
Title: Why doesn't my LEGO Micropython remote control program work?
I am writing an EV3 micropython program meant to test my remote, but it does not work. When I run it, I see no errors at all. Instead, I just see a "play" symbol and the program continuously runs. If I press any buttons on my remote control, nothing at all happens. The code is below:

```
#!/usr/bin/env pybricks-micropython
from pybricks.hubs import EV3Brick
from pybricks.ev3devices import (Motor, TouchSensor, ColorSensor,
                                 InfraredSensor, UltrasonicSensor, GyroSensor)
from pybricks.parameters import Port, Stop, Direction, Button, Color
from pybricks.tools import wait, StopWatch, DataLog
from pybricks.robotics import DriveBase
from pybricks.media.ev3dev import SoundFile, ImageFile

# This program requires LEGO EV3 MicroPython v2.0 or higher.
# Click "Open user guide" on the EV3 extension tab for more information.

# Create your objects here.
ev3 = EV3Brick()
ir = InfraredSensor(Port.S1)
# ONLY USE THIS ONE PROGRAM!!!
while True:
    if ir.buttons(1) == Button.BEACON:
        ev3.light.on(Color.RED)
    else:
        ev3.light.on(Color.GREEN)

```

Do you have any solutions to this problem? Thanks.

# Answer
> 5 votes
You can get community support for Pybricks at https://github.com/pybricks/support.

`ir.buttons(1)` returns a list of pressed buttons, so in this particular program

```
if ir.buttons(1) == Button.BEACON:

```

needs to be changed to

```
 if Button.BEACON in ir.buttons(1):

```

This will test **if** *item* is **in** *list*.

---
Tags: ev3, programming, remote-control, python, pybricks
---


# Question
Title: Lego Education 9594 instructions for models
Recently at work, I found boxes of the Lego Education Green City Challenge 9594, but there are no instructions to build the models for each challenge. I was able to go online and find the instructions for the center piece model but not the others. I would like help in finding those instructions. I have emailed LEGO Education and their response is that the set is so old they do not have it (the set came out in 2011).

# Answer
The instructions for the "LEGO NXT Green City Challenge Activity 9594" seem to be on CDROM only.

Replacement disks are offered on bricklink for Green City Challenge Activity Pack and Mindstorms Education NXT Software 2.1

See this post here for another answer.
> 3 votes

---
Tags: instructions, education
---


title: Why doesn't LEGO make minifig weapons?

text:
# Question
Title: Why doesn't LEGO make minifig weapons?
The title contains the entire question, nothing more can be added.

# Answer
> 3 votes
The Lego Group has a policy of not producing modern looking weapon accessories.

If what you are looking for are 20th century style weapon accessories for mini figures you will need to look to non-Lego third party vendors.

---
Tags: minifigures
---


# Question
Title: I don’t know what LEGO piece this is with a large hole going through its center
Can anyone tell me what LEGO piece this is?

# Answer
Technic, Engine Cylinder with Side Slots

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=2850
> 29 votes

# Answer
This one is used to build engines, used in V or I engines like this: link
> 5 votes

---
Tags: part-identification
---


title: Serra's Sanctum and magical mirrors

text:
# Question
Title: Serra's Sanctum and magical mirrors
I am in the initial planning stages for a LEGO build of Serra's Sanctum from Magic, The Gathering. Part of the description states:

> Serra's Sanctum was a notable landmark of the plane, suspended somewhere in its infinite sky. The Sanctum was the dwelling place of the famed planeswalker herself. It was massive, taller than most structures on other planes. Powerful artifacts run through white mana and having white-related functions, such as the Cocoon, could be found here. At the top of the Sanctum was the aviary, where Serra could see the entire plane through many powerful lenses that kept an eye on her world. Only planeswalkers could comprehend all these images simultaneously. Leading down from the aviary through the rest of the Sanctum was a spiral staircase that ended at the base of the building. It was here that the main plaza was presumably located. The plaza contained a water fountain that reached five stories high, carved with skillfully rendered angelic effigies. On the fountain were also the words art, discourse, freedom, peace. These are the ideals that Serra herself sought after and wished to center her world around.

It's the 'powerful lenses' part that I could use a little help with. My current idea is to use Plate, Round 4 x 4 with 2 x 2 Hole with some transparent-clear plates backing it to make a mirror/lens look. Do you folks have any better ideas?

# Answer
> 4 votes
I like your idea. I know very little about the MtG universe, so I'm not sure what might be most helpful here. Some ideas that come to mind:

The 2x2 boat stud elements are available in trans-clear and might provide the sort of look that you are hoping for.

There is a mirror element (20193) available. This could potentially be used in a lens apparatus of some sort.

The 2x2, 3x3, 4x4, and 6x6 dish elements are all available in trans-clear, and they could be useful for designing a lens system.

There's also a variant of the 6x6 dish with a handle on the side instead of the studs in the center that might work better for your application.

As zovits pointed out, the 6x6 also comes in a half-sphere variant:

There are also many printed transparent dish elements that might provide the sort of look that you are looking for, such as something like this:

# Answer
> 0 votes
All good answers, thanks. I also found this mirror and this shield

---
Tags: design
---


title: Wonder Woman Hair Vs Angel Wings

text:
# Question
Title: Wonder Woman Hair Vs Angel Wings
Will this wonder woman hairpiece work with a transparent neck bracket, some clip plates, and white feathered wings?

I have the longer version and I've verified that they won't fit together, but I'm wondering if the shorter hairpiece can work.

# Answer
No.

The hairpiece you link appears to be the same mould as the standard non-movie Wonder Woman figure. The hair falls quite close to the back of the minifigure torso, so there's no room for a neck bracket.

If you're looking to add wings to your Wonder Woman, it might be worth investing in a helmet or hairpiece that doesn't cover the back of the torso.
> 6 votes

---
Tags: minifigures
---


# Question
Title: Does remote control 8879 work for winter holiday train?
Can anyone tell me if the remote control 8879 will actually stop and start the 10254 Winter Holiday Train set?

# Answer
> 4 votes
Yes, essentially it was designed for applications like trains since it has an option to increase power gradually, unlike 8885 controller which is ON-OFF (basically with two speed settings - "9" and "0"). You can do this by turning orange disks to start moving your train. There are 9 "speeds" in each direction. And you have two options then to stop your train:

1. Hit red button below the disk to stop immediately;
2. Return disk to zero speed position.

The remote controller you are asking about is one of the items required to motorize the entire set as seen on the picture below. This is taken from instructions for 10254 Winter Holiday Train set.

# Answer
> 0 votes
10254 doesn't come with a motor. If you motorize it using the "recommended" Power Functions parts, that is the correct remote to use. If you motorize it using the newer Powered Up train motor and battery box, you need 88010 to control the Powered Up Hub.

---
Tags: trains, power-functions
---


title: RCX firmware download problem

text:
# Question
Title: RCX firmware download problem
I hope someone can help me with a problem with getting an original RCX 1.0 system working with a current PC.

I bought the RCX 1.0 system back in (I think) 2000 but its been in storage a long time. In the meantime I had children, and now one of them is curious about it and I want to encourage that.

The brick powers-up ok, but the RIS software won't install on my laptop (Win7 x64) and the laptop has no serial port to plug the IR tower into. To work around this I created a Windows XP virtual machine (in VMware Workstation), installed the RCS software on the VM, connected the IR tower to the laptop with an USB-to-serial converter, and bridged the USB port to the VM. This kind of works, in that the RIS software can recognise the RCX brick. However, it says that the firmware is missing and needs to be downloaded. When I do this I repeatedly get a download error.

**Update 1:** The RIS software displays the message "Initializing and downloading firmware", the LCD on the RCX counts from 0 to 20 ten times, and then the RIS software displays the error "RCX firmware failed to download". I think its trying to download *from* the PC *to* the RCS, not from the internet - if I disable the VMs network connection the it fails in exactly the same way and `netstat` isn't showing any network connection attempts inside the VM.

Has anyone here got a similar setup to work, or has any thoughts on what might be going wrong? Are there any command-line or diagnostic tools I could use to interrogate the RCX and/or upload the firmware outside of the RIS environment?

I'm tempted to just buy an NXT, which will be compatible with modern hardware, but I don't feel ready to give up just yet.

**Update 2:** I ran a USB sniffer *in the VM* to view the data being sent over the usb-to-serial connector. Lots of binary data being sent to the serial tower, and some patterns that suggest message framing in an application-level protocol, but nothing I could understand that indicates an error condition. The problem is not at the level of the usb adapter though.

**Update 3:** In the end I found an old PC with a serial port and the RCX worked without a problem. The RIS software installs and works okay on Windows XP SP2. My thanks to those who contributed suggestions.

# Answer
> 3 votes
This did the trick for me. My situation mirrors the original poster.

http://neuron.eng.wayne.edu/LEGO\_ROBOTICS/software\_setup\_tutorial.html

There are 4 parts to this. BrickControlCenter (brickcc), a driver for the IR tower, an image of the firmware and some other piece of software called the NCQ.

I did not install the driver since I was using a USB to RS232 adapter and BrickCC worked just fine installing the firmware.

Added bonus, the brickCC is a full on IDE for the RCX.

Also, Swap memory has to be set to at least 4GB because of some limitation on Director 6 which causes the MindStorm program to stall sometimes as it determined that it's 3MB requirement is greater than the available gigabytes if they're 3GB or less. Clever.

# Answer
> 2 votes
LEGO Mindstorms was initially released in 1998, running on Windows 95/98, and Windows 2000 and XP were not supported let alone Windows 7.

I know that they did release an updated install CD for the Mindstorms Vision Kit which allowed you to install it on Windows XP (I believe I've still got a copy of this somewhere), however you may be able to install the software and get it running directly under Windows 7 using Compatibility mode - which I know has worked for the Mindstorms Education software (so even switching to NXT won't solve all your pain).

# Answer
> 2 votes
Just went through this exercise on a Windows 10 64 BIT PC. RCX 1.0 w/ serial IR transmitter. I am able to get the RIS software running w/o issue on Windows 10 via compatibility mode (256 color, Win 98, etc). IR port even detects and turns on in the start up tutorial but as described above, initial download of FW clocks the RCX from 1 to 20 several times before failing. Gave up on this, set up a WinXP VM, and everything works via that.

# Answer
> 2 votes
How about running Windows 98 on a Raspberry Pi device and using the Lego IR USB tower that way?

Here is a tutorial on running Windows 98 on a Raspberry Pi.

https://magpi.raspberrypi.org/articles/run-windows-98-on-raspberry-pi-with-dosbox-x

I found this, too: https://minordiscoveries.wordpress.com/2014/01/20/using-nqc-on-a-raspberry-pi-to-program-a-lego-mindstorms-rcx-brick/

# Answer
> 1 votes
The RCX system is fairly old technology which LEGO no longer supports. When you're prompted to download firmware, the download error would be due to LEGO no longer hosting the firmware download.

There are plenty more firmware downloads from 3rd party developers for the RCX, although they may no longer be supported.

If you're not so interested in the more advanced functionality and the learning curve that comes with it, you may want to invest in a EV3 which is the most current Mindstorms system.

# Answer
> 1 votes
I have a similar problem with my RCX 1.0. Also have a RCX 2.0 that loads the firmware just fine. After failing to load more up to date firmware I tried loading the original RCX 1.0 firmware from the original CD with a third party tool (ROBOTC) and got a checksum error. My RCX 1.0 has a hard time getting a signal from the USB IR tower that came with the 2.0 kit. So I am suspecting the transmission is faulty. Unfortunately I don't have the original serial IR transmitter to test it with that one.

Although I have the RCX 2.0 I'd like to get the 1.0 going as well because it comes with a power cord. Nice to have for stationary robots. According to everything I read the 1.0 line should be compatible with the 2.0 kit - so I am not sure if mine is maybe defective.

It seemed in working condition before I tried the firmware update i.e. still had old programs on there that executed.

---
Tags: software, rcx
---


title: What are these two Lego parts?

text:
# Question
Title: What are these two Lego parts?
I want to order these 2 missing pieces but I don't know the name of them, can anybody help? What are the part numbers?

# Answer
> 6 votes
These parts are:

and

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Tags: part-identification
---


# Question
Title: What is the number of this small 1x1 part?
I tried to find the number of this small part. I need it to create the two towers of Notre Dame.

# Answer
That's 49668 Plate Special 1 x 1 with Tooth.
> 6 votes

---
Tags: part-identification, piece-information
---


# Question
Title: Mindstorms EV3 - Continuous low battery alarm
My son is facing an issue with his Mindstorms EV3. Every time he turns it on a low battery alarm is displayed and it shut downs.

This happens regardless of the batteries, we have tried 12 different rechargeable batteries and 6 brand new alkaline batteries.

Also, I noticed it takes a lot to start up, I don't remember it being so slow before.

The sequence is something like:

* Starting up: it takes 26 seconds
* Green light: it is on for 2.5 seconds
* Orange light with low battery alarm: it is on for 8 seconds
* Shut down: then it shuts down and it takes 20 seconds to complete

I have tried disconnecting every cable, and even opened it up and disconnected the display flex cable, but still the same behaviour. I have double checked the button in the battery compartment to make sure it is not stuck or anything similar, to avoid the brick thinking the Lego battery pack is in place.

Given that it stays on for such a short time frame, I am not able to update the firmware.

I have seen similar posts but none with a solution other than returning the brick to Lego, which is not an option to us given it is no longer under warranty.

Any clues or help?

Thanks!

# Answer
Update: we made it work, after trying many things, see below.

1. Opened the brick and inspected it for obvious signs of problems but saw nothing. Even tried with the screen disconnected.
2. We tried, as suggested in the comment above, with a firmware update. Even though the brick will stay on for only a few seconds, it was enough for the computer to recognize it and see were able to begin the update. It completed without problem, showing that the batteries were ok. After restarting it behaved in the same way. We tried firmware 1.09 and 1.10.
3. We tried ev3dev, from an SD card. It will also shutdown once it finished booting. But after many tries, it booted and displayed the main ev3dev menu, on which we could see the voltage being 5.10, getting lower gradually until it reached 4.60 and it shutdown.
4. It seemed obvious it was a hardware issue so we decided to desolder the battery contacts and inspect the board properly. There must be something in the circuit sensing voltage, maybe a resistor going bad and being unable to divide voltage properly. We immediately saw the sign of acid going through the board, with that green/blue colour. We cleaned it with a wire brush, resoldered and it worked! Both the brick's firmware and ev3dev worked perfectly, now seeing 9.10 volts.

I hope this helps someone else with the same problem.

Cheers
> 5 votes

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms, battery
---


# Question
Title: Missing stickers for 71374: Nintendo Gaming Console LEGO set
How do I get a replacement sticker sheet for this product? The one I received came with no stickers.

# Answer
You can contact LEGO customer service by email, phone and chat about missing parts or sticker sheets.

For third-party sellers, try Bricklink.
> 2 votes

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Tags: stickers, replacement-parts
---


# Question
Title: Help Identifying a minifigure head - white, like a mime or clown
I have looked everywhere I know to look but can't find this minifigure head listed. Any help appreciated.

# Answer
> 16 votes
I talked to a Lego expert on the lego.com online chat. He told me that this particular lego head was an exclusive part for the Build a Minifigure bin and gave me the part number for it 6257472 mini figure head #2829. I didn't know there were exclusive parts in the minifigure bin, I wonder if this is something new. He seemed quite surprised when he found it in the lego database as being exclusive to the build a minifigure bin.

# Answer
> 6 votes
Found it on brick link Catalog: Parts: Minifigure, Head: 3626cpb2325.

Title says it's a Minifigure, Head Mime Smiling Face, Black Star Eyes with White Pupils Pattern - Hollow Stud

---
Tags: part-identification, minifigure-identification
---


# Question
Title: What did LEGO bricks look like in the past?
How did LEGO bricks look like in the olden days?

Can you also show me the bottom of a LEGO brick from the olden days?

# Answer
The earliest LEGO bricks were made in 1949, and they had completely empty undersides with vertical notches in two of their sides for attaching windows, doors and decorative cardboard inserts:

Then in 1958 (or 1961, depending on the country) the form known today was adopted, with tubes on the bottom and without notches:
> 8 votes

---
Tags: piece-information, vintage
---


# Question
Title: What are some good purist rotacaster / omni wheel designs?
In robotics, rotacasters or omni wheels are often very useful.

It's possible to buy LEGO-compatible ones from some third parties, here's one random example:

Unfortunately, LEGO has yet to make any themselves, which means if you are looking for a purist solution (because of robotics competition rules for example) you are out of luck.

Or are you? It might be tough to make a small one, but surely it's possible to build one.

What are some good rotacaster / omni wheel designs?

# Answer
> 8 votes
I have copied a design by Isogawa Yoshihito

I prefer it over the Lambert Varias design as the wheels are positioned more radially

More pictures in this EuroBricks thread: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/76297-isogawayoshihitos-lego-technic-omni-wheel-crab/

# Answer
> 9 votes
Here's a design I've been using, based on this model by Lambert Varias:

It's not a perfect circle, but it is relatively small all things considered:

It's pretty simple, but here's a partial disassembled version to better show what goes into it:

Parts shown:

# Answer
> 5 votes
Just stumbled across this little gem of a Lego omni wheel!

---
Tags: mindstorms, technic, building, design, robotic
---


title: Using Power functions to teach robotics

text:
# Question
Title: Using Power functions to teach robotics
I am a robotics engineer and I would like to introduce and teach my girlfriend to robotics. I would like to first get her the material for the first project. I would love to build a small Lego car controllable via radio commands. I want everything plugged to a Raspberry Pi and start from SCRATCH. I want to develop the motor controllers with her, then the drivers, then the control loop, etc.

* Is the Lego Power Functions system a good idea to start such a project?
* How easy is it to plug everything to a Raspberry?
* What kit should I start with?

Thanks a lot guys !

# Answer
> 2 votes
Welcome to Bricks.SE. Yes, you can use the Power Functions equipment to teach robotics. I would recommend you stick with the original PF instead of PoweredUp, as the latter has more complicated electronics and control schemes, however, others have already built custom control software for PUp so tinkering with software is definitely possible.

Regarding Power Functions, the components have a 4 wire cable with 2 providing a constant 9V and ground, and 2 that are used for sending control signals (fluctuating values between 9V and 0V). Device identification is done through resistors, which is easy to mimick should you want to build your own motors, but this might not even be necessary as you want to build and configure your own controller. And the cable is easy to split and modify.

@Philo who is a regular here maintains a site (www.philohome.com) on which you can find a wealth of information regarding PF. This would be the best place to start.

If you are planning to use an RPi, make sure you get a suitable motor driver. You can power the motors via the driver at 9V, and use a buck converter to give your RPi 5V directly via the GPIO, just be careful because there is no overvoltage protection if used this way. Powering an Arduino or compatible microprocessor is also an option.

One word of warning: Power Functions components are retiring this year, so make sure you get your component order in from LEGO ASAP.

Good luck!

---
Tags: programming, power-functions
---


title: Part identification - 5 parts

text:
# Question
Title: Part identification - 5 parts
Please could someone help me with identifying these parts. I could not find a part number on them. I've tried reverse image searching too - but having no luck. Once I have the part numbers I will work out what sets(s) we purchased and go from there - I just need the part numbers to begin. Images below.

# Answer
> 8 votes
1: two pieces from sets like 6919 \- the sticker is magnetic, and fits on 30213 to make 30213pb01

2: an Insectoids torso \- 973pb0037

3: an Insectoid head \- 3626bpx31

4: might be a Harold Potter head \- 3626bpb0155 from set 4711

5: seems to be an Insectoid helmet \- 30214

---
Tags: part-identification, piece-information
---


# Question
Title: Little round knobs under the ark of the covenant
I'd like to build the ark of the covenant from LEGO IDEAS as part of my 'raiders of the Lost Ark' scene. Is there a way to get a parts list for a LEGO IDEAS submission? If not, can someone identify those little round knobs at the base of it. Can someone help me understand how he's attaching the bars to the ark?

# Answer
Since I'm not the author I won't be able to provide instructions, however it is quite easy for me to identify the pieces you are asking about.

"Little round knobs" are Brick, Round 2 x 2 Sphere with Stud / Robot Body (20953)

Bars are attached with the help of Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Light Attachment - Thick Ring (4081b)

That's how it would look in the assembly:
> 6 votes

---
Tags: part-identification
---


# Question
Title: Is it possible to remove a parted out set from BrickLink inventory?
I have an inventory in BrickLink, in which I accidentally parted out (with the consolidation option) two sets instead of one.

Is there a way to remove the pieces of the second set somehow without manual part-by-part deletion?

# Answer
Part out the same set, but with a negative quantity.

This does indeed work, as I have solved this very problem using this solution in the past:

This is a screenshot of my Part Out Log, and you can see I've accidentally parted out 10 sets twice. Then I've reversed the second part-out.

You can see a list of every set you've parted out (after mid-2009) and the quantity in your Part Out Log.
> 7 votes

# Answer
I don't really think there is any way to do so other than to look at the inventory of the set and then do the manual part by part deletion, but if the parts from the parted out set consist of most or all the pieces in the cart then you could probably jot down the numbers of the parts not included in the set and delete everything in the cart. my answer could very well be incorrect or unusable, but this is the best I can do. Hope it helps.
> -2 votes

---
Tags: bricklink
---


title: Where is this piece from?

text:
# Question
Title: Where is this piece from?
Does anyone know where is this tree from? I found it in my childhood (90s) box full of LEGO, but I'm pretty sure it is not actually LEGO.

# Answer
It is not LEGO. Parts from the 90s are well documented, and I can't find this part on BrickLink when searching for the word "Tree".
> 3 votes

---
Tags: part-identification, piece-information
---


# Question
Title: Buying specific part variant on BrickLink
I've ordered a lot of pieces (at least a lot for me) on BrickLink, among them a bunch of "3794b - Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with 1 Stud with Groove (Jumper)". Instead of that variant, I received "15573 - Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with 1 Stud with Groove and Bottom Stud Holder (Jumper)".

I've checked the order again, and the description for that piece reads "Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with 1 Stud with Groove (Jumper) We do not differentiate between 3794, 3794a, 3794b and 15573!". I missed that part, so I know this is at least partially my fault (it's not too bad though, my MOC will still work, but if I had needed 15573 and gotten 3794b it might not have).

So my question is, is this just another thing I have to look out for, or is this a really bad practice and should not happen on BrickLink?

# Answer
> 5 votes
I'd say this is something to look out for when dealing with a part that BrinkLink itself notes is very similar to other part numbers. Reading the detailed notes about buying sets is more important than parts generally. I'd read a bit more closely about the stated condition of used parts than new parts.

I've made a few dozen orders on BrickLink over the years and I haven't run into this exact situation. Yet any issues I've had have been easily resolved by contacting the seller. I wouldn't pester the folks that say they treat them all as the same part, but you can probably find somebody out there who will give you exactly what you want. Find another seller, read to make sure they don't have a similar warning, and drop them a note to make sure everybody is on the same page.

# Answer
> 1 votes
There are various cases and some shops tend to have quite relaxed rules for what they sell in terms of part variation or used brick policy (basically how much brick is used to be considered acceptable for sale by that particular shop).

In your particular case the warning you mentioned was stated in that particular shop's Terms & Conditions. You had to read it before accepting these terms. And I advise you to do so every time, as there may be specific details explained. Like, used part quality policy, additional fees, returns policy, and so on.

# Answer
> 1 votes
Here's an image from BrickLink for the catalog item 15573:

It seems clear to me that 15573 and 3794 are different parts.

Not distinguishing between them I would consider lazy, if not bad practice. Wouldn't bother starting an argument with that store, as they basically did warn you, but I'd blacklist the store for future purchases.

# Answer
> 0 votes
On a superficial level, the functionality is the same - two studs below with single stud in the middle. But some users find the differentiation important.

At the very least, the seller's stock should be split into Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with 1 Stud, Jumper (Undetermined Bottom Type) which makes it clear no differentiation has been made, and Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with 1 Stud with Groove and Bottom Stud Holder (Jumper), which even LEGO thinks is different.

> Items for sale which do not comply with the Item Listing Policy can be reported on the Problem Item For Sale page.

You can report a problem BrickLink listing as "item is listed under the wrong catalog entry", a reason that isn't forbidden by the Item Listing Policy, but seems to be implicitly forbidden by existence on the list of problems.

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Tags: shopping, bricklink
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# Question
Title: Technic Pin/Travis Brick Legal Connection?
Is seating a Travis brick on a Technic pin a legal connection? TLG has used this construction at least once (M-Tron Particular Ionizer's "rotor"), but that was in the early 90s. Will this connection stress the Technic pin?

Here's an example of what I'm referring to from that set:

# Answer
> 14 votes
In general, this sort of connection is illegal, but I think that it works fine with a Travis brick. Technic pins must be "in click" in a model, or the pins will be held in compression and can be damaged over time.

Here's a slide from Jamie Barard's classic "Stressing the Elements" presentation that explain the need to have Technic pins in click:

And here's the slide that explicitly states that Technic pins should not be used to connect to System bricks:

Here's an example of a set that didn't keep Technic pins in click and the resulting damage from prolonged storage assembled:

With all of that said, the four holes that run through the stud connections on the sides of a Travis brick provide ample room for a pin to click into it. This isn't an obvious connection as with a Technic brick, but the fact the pin can move freely inside the brick indicates that it isn't in compression and is simply constrained to remain inside.

I can't speak to whether or not this type of connection would get through a design review today, but I can say with confidence that this wouldn't cause damage to elements. If this is considered "illegal" it would be for other reasons.

# Answer
> 6 votes
Although technically the connection is illegal, I don't think the pin is under stress. I remember this set from my childhood, and the "rotor" rotated easily, which would not have been the case if the pin was stressed.

# Answer
> 5 votes
TLG continued to use this technique through at least the mid-90s. The technique appeared in the Cowboy sets 6761: Bandit's Secret Hide-Out

and 6765: Gold City Junction

to construct turrets.

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Tags: technic, connections
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# Question
Title: What is the maximum voltage for motors from Cybermaster units?
I recently bought a non-functioning Cybermaster unit \[part:71797\].

As the motors in there might be perfectly fine, I'd like to use them. I could not find information on these motors (as opposed to most other Lego motors ^^).

What would be the maximum safe-to-apply voltage for them?

# Answer
I don't have this set, so I can't provide a fully authoritative answer, but 9V is likely to be safe for these motors. The hub that drives them is definitely 9V, as it connects with the rest of the 9V system and runs on 6 AA batteries:

TLG typically overspecs their motors somewhat, so you could probably also get away with running the motor using 12 volts, but it might harm the life expectancy a bit. If you can pull out the actual motor, you might be able to find a model number to look up for a more authoritative answer.

I'd recommend starting with a lower voltage (perhaps 3V) and working your way up to make sure that the motors are functioning as expected.
> 2 votes

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Tags: motor, repair, electronics, 9v, 12v
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