# Question
Title: What does 191767 mean in "Paper, Cardboard for Set 4336 #1, Scala Cat (191767)"
In BL http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4336cdb01 This cardboard's name is "Paper, Cardboard for Set 4336 #1, Scala Cat (191767)"

What does "(191767)" mean here in the description?

# Answer
> 3 votes
It's an number printed on the piece of paper, so it's easy to identify and to search (if you look at the picture of the "part" you will see it).

If you were asking about the actual (internal) meeaning of the number then I don't know for sure, sorry. I assume it's just an identification code.

# Answer
> 4 votes
My guess would be that it is the LEGO *element ID* (6-7 digits as far as my observation goes). This is different from the *item number* which is shown on the bricks or on BrickLink. The *item number* usually contains (or is equal to) the *design number*.

Example: I have a 2x6 plate in tan. This shows the number 3795. As this is a common piece I looked it up on the LEGO website (search by *design number*) and this reveals that the *element ID* (which also contains color information) is 4113993. Some element IDs contain the design number as well, e.g. **3795**01 is the very same plate in white.

Unfortunately the piece in question seems to be rather old, so I could not find any information about it online. (And to find element IDs is a challange by itself as they seem to be "LEGO internal".)

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Tags: piece-information, bricklink
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title: Does anyone know what set this is?

text:
# Question
Title: Does anyone know what set this is?
I have recently re-discovered Lego and was looking through my son's old sets. In a box I found this partially assembled "Bug". I don't have the instructions nor the original box so I am unsure what set this is.

If I can figure it out I can get the parts list and instructions and complete it.

# Answer
I believe this to be part of the Insectoid space series,

I think set 6907:

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=6907-1

But could also be one of the other 3 sets that contain the stinger. https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=x239&in=S
> 9 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Why doesn’t part 30099 fit into the System?
Part 30099 - Brick Arch 1x5x4 Inverted doesn’t seem to fit into the LEGO system. I cannot find a part that fits on the bottom stud and provides continuity to the concave slope of the arch. A tile is not high enough, and a cheese slope is too high. In other words, the height is 1.5 plates (1/2 a brick). Does anyone know why this is and/or have an example of a LEGO piece that fits this slope?

# Answer
I would assume that this is to do with stability and flexibility of the element, combined with the rectangular nature of the system.

There are a number of uses of the part where it's not used to create a full circle, such as on the tailplane of 31011 or the fairing of a Ferarri and having a stud at the bottom allows them to secure the element on the top and bottom, rather than just from the bottom.

If the element was a true quarter circle, the end still wouldn't line up with the system height correctly, so I imagine that the decision was taken to finish it early with a stud, rather than complete it neatly.
> 7 votes

# Answer
This picture might explain the reason:

As you can see, arches form a nice circle to fit round modified plate. All fits well, except the very bottom. Making the bottom edge fit the plate/tile nicely would result in gap with a round piece. The curve of this arch brick isn't full 1/4 circle to make it flush with a tile/plate.

However you may ask "Why didn't LEGO just extend the bottom curve to full 1/4 circle and cover the stud?". This seems to be an obvious solution, but that's a different topic and we may not know which decision caused the part to appear in existing form.
> 9 votes

# Answer
Finding a piece that completes a flawless circle can't be done with this element's current design, but...

...If we stick only with *Part #2339*, we can build an outside frame that changes the direction of the studs themselves in a way that produces the desired effect.

You could try and contact *LEGO* *customer service* directly for their official reason as to why this element is designed in such a fashion as to not produce a perfect circle in conjunction with its inverted twin, because a question this specific could only be verified officially by *LEGO* themselves, and anything else would seem to be speculation.
> 6 votes

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Tags: piece-information, compatibility, piece-usage, system
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title: IDE recommendations for EV3 programming

text:
# Question
Title: IDE recommendations for EV3 programming
Does anybody have any recommendations for non-GUI programming of the EV3 unit?

I'm impressed by the LabVIEW software, but as a professional C# and VB.Net programmer (with C, C++ experience), I find it slow and difficult to implement complex mathematical formula.

In particular, I love the ability of LabVIEW to transfer and run (and effectively debug) programs directly into the block with BlueTooth, so an IDE with that capability would be ideal.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Since you are a C# pro, I would recommend MonoBrick. I know they have a plugin for Xamarin Studio/MonoDevelop that lets you do remote debugging. Not sure if they have one for Visual Studio yet.

There is also EV3Basic, which is an IDE that lets you program the EV3 using the BASIC programming language. Unlike most other 3rd party programming languages this one actually uses the official EV3 firmware.

# Answer
> 2 votes
I wrote an Eclipse CDT (C/C++) plugin which lets you create projects and compile/upload/download them. Check it out!

The EV3 has a gdbserver running on it, so you can connect to it from Eclipse. The plugin doesn't automate that however. (Maybe you feel like fixing that? ;)

# Answer
> 1 votes
I made an IDE available on a simple wibsite at the following address:

http://jasvap.somee.com ( use this to see a screenshot )

If the above link doens't work you can download it from my OneDrive disk (preferable):

http://1drv.ms/1yJi3cp (use this to download the program )

Please read the README.txt file that will appear when you open the program!!!

Hope you enjoy it,

Steven Persyn

# Answer
> 0 votes
Mac users, I worked on Robotary, a Swift-based IDE for programming both the NXT and EV3.

It has compiler-driven code completions, syntax highlighting, an LLDB-based debugger, Bluetooth and USB support, various examples, documentation, and various tools (file manager, screen mirror, etc.).

# Answer
> 0 votes
I like the EV3 Swift playground for iPad. It's not 100% feature complete but does the job.

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Tags: ev3, programming
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# Question
Title: Harley Davidson chain belt running jolty
I am building the Harley Davidson Fat Boy from Creator Expert (10269) and when installing the chain belt that connects the engine gears to the rear wheel I noticed that it runs quite jolty, with the chain links feelably and hearably clicking onto the gear when running over it. It all feels like it doesn't quite fit and run as smoothly as it should.

However, I don't have much experience with chain belts in technic constructions, so I don't know if this is maybe a general shortcoming of LEGO or if I just made a mistake somewhere. I did closely follow the building instructions of course and I also checked that I use exactly the 43 chain links mentioned as well as aligned the chain in the direction depicted. Or maybe it *has* to run this way and this is an intended effect for a "rougher" or more pulpable engine feeling?

So I'm basically just trying to check if I built it correctly and it *does* run kind of jolty or if it has to run smoothly and I made a mistake somewhere.

# Answer
Okay, it seems I indeed **made a mistake during building**, which I solved afterwards:

When assembling the rear mudguard, I noticed that the **rear wheel had quite a bit more variability in its sideways adjustment and was quite a bit off center**, specifically too far to the left. This caused the chain belt to either run slightly skewed or have friction on some part of the frame. When I adjusted the wheel more towards the center, it ran a lot smoother.

However, this was only part of the problem. The *actual* mistake I only realized at the end when seeing a little **yellow half-stud wide technic bush, which I missed in instruction step 25** already, where it was placed under the gear on which the chain runs and is supposed to space it further away from the frame. Fortunately I was able to repair that without dismantling the entire thing.
> 7 votes

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Tags: technic, mechanical, connections
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# Question
Title: Will Duplo trains fit onto a regular 6 stud LEGO track?
There's a thread here establishing that regular LEGO trains arguably fit onto Duplo track, but have trouble with underbelly clearance.

What about the opposite? Will a Duplo train fit onto six-stud gauge LEGO track?

To be clear, I am excluding control and power functions - I'm asking if a Duplo train will fit on the tracks and roll freely without derailing.

# Answer
For this experiment we're using the wheeled *Duplo* push and go motor block and red cabin from *Set #10874*.

The wheel width of the motor is the same width as a non motor base.

So, for this train to stay on the six stud track, the wheels need to sit either on the inside of the tracks or the outside of the tracks.

As the last picture shows, the wheels float on top of the tracks, which allows the train to slip off.

If this red train represents the standard width of most *Duplo* trains, then we can conclude that a *Duplo* train will not fit on a six-stud gauge *LEGO* track and roll freely without derailing.

***UPDATE***: Just getting our digital groove on.
> 16 votes

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Tags: piece-information, trains, compatibility, duplo
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# Question
Title: What are the thick red cylinders in 80104?
What are the thick red cylinders with handles (not the drumsticks) that two minifigs are holding in set 80104 supposed to represent?

# Answer
> 30 votes
Michael has answered what pieces it is, but you ask what they represent, so I'm going to offer a guess at that: Fireworks.

# Answer
> 16 votes
Those are red technic pin connectors

bricklick pin connector

A "flick missile" pin is inserted which is one one side a bar so the minifig can hold it and on the other side a stud so the pyramid element can be placed on top.

bricklink flick missile

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Can anyone tell me which set this LEGO plane is from?
Im looking through my old LEGO sets and discovered this plane and I have no idea which set its from or the details. Could anyone help me out please?

# Answer
Searching *Bricklink.com* for all sets that have *Part # 30056 - Fence 4 x 4 x 2 Quarter Round Spindled with 2 Studs.*

We get the image of your plane, which is from *Set #3451 - Sopwith Camel.*

Looks like your model needs a serious dusting.
> 9 votes

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Tags: set-identification, sets, set-database, set-numbering
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title: Are there two versions of the set 6205?

text:
# Question
Title: Are there two versions of the set 6205?
I own the LEGO set 6205 and I noticed from another picture on Brickowl and Bricklink the wing design is different. Is there an alternate version or did someone who had the set mix up the pieces and build it the wrong way?

# Answer
To figure out which party made a mistake, compare everyone's work with the official art displayed on the box.

*Short answer:* Go compare images against the box art.

*Detailed answer:*

First, let's investigate and try to understand what the *OP* is talking about with some build dependency in the wing area of *Set #6205*.

So, upon going to both *Bricklink* and *Brick Owl*, we see the same curious image both sites are using, that seems to conflict with the original box art.

Hey, look, the fabled alternate build!

So, let's compare:

*LEGO* alternate builds tend to add something of value that is visually or functionally appealing.

* Focusing our attention at the original's wing design, notice how the tapered flow traverses *smoothly* back to the stern of the ship, versus the squared off-bluntness of the alternate.

So... where's the *further-appeal* rational for the alternate here? is *LEGO* offering us a battle damaged version?

Let's nitpick this image's authenticity further.

* *A*) The reflective glare obstructs the minifig, giving us that *shine-on-you-crazy-diamond* effect only the *Pink Floyd* fan would appreciate.
* *B*) The shot of the cannon weapon is skewed here, but if official, would be aesthetically squared, and oh so perfect.

Furthermore, there is no proof of the existence of "*Dash-Two*" instructions.

* When *LEGO* offers multiple builds of a set, they tend to add a dash "***-***" and a sequential build number at the end of the set's name. So, if one existed, it would read "*6205-2*".

*Dashy-Two*, *Dashy-Two*! Where are you?

Finally, just Look at it. On the surface it looks like a build mistake that anyone of us could make, but seriously, after looking deeper, does anyone really think *LEGO* would approve this?

So, taken it in all together, these detail errors just wouldn't fly at *LEGO*.

*Conclusion*: The *6205* alternate build image is simply bogus, and should be ignored as an innocent mistake at *Bricklink* and *Brick Owl*.

*But... That was some very impressive attention to detail, young Justan Ryan*.
> 4 votes

# Answer
Inventory for 6205 set on Bricklink has quite a few alternate pieces (look at the bottom of the page on BL), which suggest me there are two versions of this set. You can find alternate parts as they are linked to parts found in initial inventory.

Note. During production of a set LEGO may change a piece or two to similar part of a different color or mould. This has been done quite a few times. Rarely LEGO may re-work the set a little, resulting in change of more than a few pieces within inventory, which happened here.

Other (better) known examples of sets having several versions:

8880

21303 WALL•E
> 1 votes

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Tags: sets, star-wars
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title: How to sell built Lego sets?

text:
# Question
Title: How to sell built Lego sets?
I have 4 UCS Star Wars sets: Slave 1, Airspeeder, TIE fighter and Sandcrawler. I'm not interested in keeping them anymore. They take up a lot of room and don't do much.

I was wondering how to sell them: Ebay, Craigslist?

Any suggestions would be good. Also how much do you think they are worth (built)?

I have all of the mini-figures and no pieces are missing. I have the boxes and instructions.

# Answer
> 3 votes
If the sets are indeed complete with all parts, minifigs, instructions and even boxes then I'd recommend Bricklink, as the collector community there would be more appreciative of these features. Whereas on Ebay and Craigslist you'd find more people who just want a playset and couldn't even tell if a set was complete or not.

For higher value sets (like yours) and for the european market I'd give Catawiki a look as well, as their reviewer and escrow system helps avoid scams and other pitfalls - for a higher fee for both buyers and sellers.

For price suggestions check these links below:

Slave I Sandcrawler TIE Fighter Snowspeeder

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Tags: shopping, star-wars, value
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# Question
Title: Where can I find the misspelled Luke Skywlaker pen?
There was a LEGO Star Wars snafu in which a buildable pen was released, and "Skywalker" was incorrectly spelled as "Sky**wla**ker". This was quickly remedied, and a corrected version was released.

I would like to find one of these "Skywlaker" pens. I have checked eBay, LEGO shop, Amazon and Bricklink and have not been able to find it. Does anyone have tips on where to look for these one-of-a-kind items?

# Answer
> 5 votes
The closest I could find is a forum thread where a member called "slow 2.0" writes that (s)he has two of these and might be willing to sell one of them. The catch is the thread is from 2010 and the user hasn't been active in the forum since 2014.

**Update** Since the thread no longer has the image, here is how it looked like:

# Answer
> 3 votes
Turns out we have two of these...

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Tags: shopping, star-wars
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title: draw program for LEGO MOC models?

text:
# Question
Title: draw program for LEGO MOC models?
I want to design a MOC digitally. I can do this with ldraw, but are there any drawing programs better than ldraw to make models of LEGO ?

kind regards, Peter

# Answer
Even though support has ended, the LDD software still works. Alternatively, you mention LDraw but LDraw is only a catalogue and a standard - there are different software packages that allow you to draw on top of the LDraw catalog such as MLCad and LEOCad - have you tried these to see which one works? I use MLCad extensively - it looked daunting at first but the tutorials at http://www.holly-wood.it helped a ton - worth spending a few hours doing those tutorials.

As per @Philo's suggestion: another program worth looking at is LDCad, which promises to be more convenient and more powerful than MLCad or LEOCad.
> 4 votes

# Answer
I found BrickLink Studio quite good, but only worked with LEGO Digital Designer (LDD) before. Has also the ability to create instructions as PDF, though the process of creating all the steps is manual. Missing parts can be added by exporting them from LDD or placing additional LDraw models in a specific program folder. Comes also with an additional program (Part Designer) to create custom bricks or to put custom pattern on existing bricks or minifigs.
> 3 votes

# Answer
There is also the Google LEGO building app that you can use to design LEGO sets and MOCs.

Here is the link:

https://www.buildwithchrome.com/builder#pos=170623x401445&load=ahFzfmJ1aWxkd2l0aGNocm9tZXIsCxIFQnVpbGQiIXRpbGV4XzE3MDYyM190aWxleV80MDE0NDVfem9vbV8yMAw

I hope this helps.
> 1 votes

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Tags: moc
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title: How to motorize a LEGO Pneumatic valve?

text:
# Question
Title: How to motorize a LEGO Pneumatic valve?
I am working on a project that requires remotely switched LEGO valves, and I tried many designs I found, and none of them worked due to the valve causing too much resistance. Does anyone have a remotely switched valve design that fulfills the conditions below?

1. It must be tested and work.
2. It must use only PF motors.
3. It must not use 32449.

# Answer
> I tried many designs I found

A quick Google search resulted in the following designs. Have you tried them all?

Sariel's Autovalve:

Philo's pneumatic valve:

Sariel's Servo Valve:

Tamas Juhasz's small autovalve with compressor:

Technic-Dragon's Compact Pneumatic Autovalve:

---

Bonus entries, not using exclusively PF motors, but could be adapted to:

Conchas' Micromotor valve:

Pneumatically controlled valve from the B model of 8868-1: Air Tech Claw Rig
> 4 votes

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Tags: technic, design, pneumatic
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# Question
Title: What piece has one prong on one end and four on the other?
Yesterday I wanted to answer a question with this part in mind, but I couldn't find it in any of the databases I looked in. After finding this part in my collection, I tried to look for its part number to properly reference it, but to no avail. What's more, there was no LEGO marking to be seen either. So now I'm really interested: is this even a real LEGO part?

The material, finish, precision seem all correct, and it fits in the LEGO system in various ways, which is atypical for clone brands.

# Answer
It is called Plant, Tree Palm Top. It used to be green or brown and was a part of the palm trees found in the Pirate kits. It was the part that the leaves joined onto. The four prongs pointed up.
> 26 votes

# Answer
In a classic rubber duck moment, the solution has dawned on me minutes after asking the question, while browsing the list of sets owned by me to find the one that included this piece...

This is ASSEMBLY ELEMENT Ø3.2 etc. or with Bricklink terminology: Plant, Tree Palm Top:

The complete lack of markings of any kind is still puzzling, but it is reassuring that the part is indeed a genuine LEGO piece.

---

Update:

After finding a more recent part of the same design, it does indeed contain a LEGO marking on the upper edge, but the older one I found first does not. Curious.
> 18 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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title: Schematic and program listing of 28743?

text:
# Question
Title: Schematic and program listing of 28743?
Looking for more info on circuit board of 28743. E.g. what is the processor used? Would like to be able to reprogram the chip. E.g. program the train to stop on the third STOP directive strip, or reverse the train direction if it immediately follows a TOOT directive strip. Ultimately I'd like to program it from Scratch or Python code, but that may be asking too much.

# Answer
> 2 votes
If the schematic you are asking is for the LegoDuplo, Train Push & Go Motor

with the circuit board that looks like:

This schematic is proprietary information that belongs to the Lego group.

This element uses a Bluetooth Low Energy radio and has an FCC ID: NPI28743

Perhaps you could create your own schematic and post it here.

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Tags: software, trains, duplo
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# Question
Title: Which parts have no-friction Technic axle holes?
I want to make a no (or very low) friction inline coupling for axles. The axles must turn, transmit moderate torque, and be in phase (therefore backlash must be minimal). The axles remain inline at all times. The axles do not need to slide when in use; the no-friction requirement is just for easy (dis)assembly.

The coupling must be very compact, especially in width (not greater than 2 studs wide). So I am interested in parts with no-friction axle holes.

I am aware of the following parts:

Are there other parts with no/low-friction axle holes that could be useful for this coupling design? Or are there alternative coupling designs that meet the stated requirements?

# Answer
One possibility is the Technic, Gear 8 Tooth without Friction. It was specificially designed to allow axles to slide through it. It can be held by 4 other 8-tooth gears, one of which could allow for the mechanical connection:

```
 o
o+*
 o

+ This is the frictionless 8-tooth gear your axle can be inserted into
* This gear is used to transmit the torque via another, fixed axle
o These are gears pinned to the frame but connected only to the central one

```

The above solution does violate the 2 studs width requirement, but it still might be possible to use the gear with the fixed axle inserted by half a stud and the removable axle occupying the remaining half stud. This would require a way to fix the gear in place, since both axles would have the same amount of clutch, and depending on your definition of "moderate torque", the interface along the half stud length of gear and axle might prove insufficient.
> 1 votes

# Answer
Another solution, which, depending on your definition of "moderate torque", could be sufficient.

Note the 1 stud long bush not being in click, in order to increase friction between the blue pin with axle and the harpoon piece, and thus the transmitted torque before the clutch power is overcome.   This setup is quite long, a bit more than 6 studs between the ends of the axle joiners, but fits in a 1x1 cross-section. It needs constant pressure in the axial direction though, or else the harpoon head will strip the axle joiner like a Philips screwdriver.
> 1 votes

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Tags: technic, building
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# Question
Title: How to glue a LEGO tree decoration in a way that's not permanent, to prevent accidental disassembling?
I have a sweet LEGO Santa Claus and few other builds that would look cool as decorations on Christmas Tree. Sadly, it would probably break if I would try to hang it. It can stand all right but is not sturdy enough to hang, or to survive much handling, really.

So I want to glue it together. But I don't want it to stay glued. I want to be able to disassemble it when I no longer use it as an ornament that hangs on something. Is there any way to glue LEGO bricks and still be able to wash away the glue without damaging them when I want to?

Note: this question has nothing to do with the safety of 4 years old kids, like this one, and strength of connection I'm asking about is way smaller (hanging on a tree vs kid potentially trying to take it apart).

# Answer
> 2 votes
You can increase the "clutch" power of bricks by sandwiching a piece of paper towel between each connection. Once the bricks are together, cut away the excess paper using a knife.

The effect of this is roughly the same as applying a weak glue. Your builds will not become impervious, but will hold up better to handling and hanging.

# Answer
> -2 votes
If you need it to be glued but not permanent, I'd try paper-mache paste. It'll wash out. I've never tried it, but I think it should work.

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Tags: building, glue
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title: My Mindstorms Spik3r can't turn around

text:
# Question
Title: My Mindstorms Spik3r can't turn around
When I use the button for turning it just goes backwards. Why does this happen? I've checked the instructions and didn't find anything.

# Answer
> 5 votes
According to this article, the turning is supposed to function via a

> wheel on the bottom that while the car moves forward stays straight but that once the car moves backward moves a little to the side and forces the car to turn.

If correctly built, it should look like this:

A bit later the article offers a few tips on troubleshooting, among which there is your issue as well:

> Problem: My Spik3r doesn’t turn
>
> This looks like a construction problem. Check the above photo to see how the flying wheel is supposed to look like.

---

## Edit after an update to the question

The wheel marked with the red free-hand circle is meant to slide freely in forward motion (the head of Spik3r is seen at the bottom of the picture), as it is pivoting around the axle with the yellow half-bushes, and get stuck in reverse (as the blue pin catches on the black undercarriage), thereby braking that side of the Spik3r and causing the model to turn towards that side.

If this wheel gets stuck during reverse, then it is working as intended and should provide enough friction to turn the whole model.

If it does not get stuck, then it is due to a mistake in the build.

If it gets stuck but does not force the model to turn, then you might need to change the friction between the wheel and the ground it's running on (e.g. use it on a carpet or any other surface rougher than the polished hardwood shown in the background).

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms, building
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# Question
Title: What material are older soft (plant) parts made of?
I've carefully searched through SE and web and haven't found the exact answer.

This 2018 announcement states that new plant parts are made of plant-based *polyethylene*. It also implies that plant parts used to be made of polyethylene too, but it's just a hint though. I've also encountered some sources on the web mentioning *polypropylene* as the material.

Here are the examples of parts which seem to be manufactured of the same sort of plastic:

* 2518 Tree Palm Leaf Large 10 x 5

* 2536x Tree Palm Trunk

* 2542 Paddle

* 30158 Backpack Opening

So now I wonder which material soft parts (plants and similar) are made of prior to the 2018 announcement of switching to plant-based polyethylene.

# Answer
According to Brickset, these parts have always been made of polyethylene, the only difference is that some of the material is plant-based since the *Plants from Plants* initiative.

> **Can you tell the difference?**
>
> No! They look, feel, smell and work just like 'regular' botanical elements. This is because, chemically, they are the same. You can safely mix them with your other plant pieces safe in the knowledge that there is no difference.
> 9 votes

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Tags: manufacturing, plastics
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# Question
Title: Is the LEGO Mindstorms Education (not Home, not Scratch based) Edition for Mac OS gone?
I am starting a robotics and programming club with some 9-12 year olds and for the past week I have been developing activities using my Windows version of LEGO Mindstorms (the education / teacher edition) on my Windows 10 PC.

In the classroom I will be using we have an assortment of Mac OS Laptops (thankfully not running Catalina). I wanted to get the same Education Edition for the Mac because the Mindstorms Home Edition is hideous and lacks many features, plus I have developed a lot of educational resources that depend on it.

However, now that LEGO seem to be testing the waters with the new Scratch based Mindstorms for Mac OS, the Education / Teacher edition of the classic LEGO Mindstorms seems to have vaporized and they have left no trace.

Does anyone know where I can get the educational (not home) version of the Classic LEGO Mindstorms development environment for the Mac OS?

# Answer
> 6 votes
It looks like LEGO have indeed completely pulled the previous version.

According to the announcement last year (***emphasis added***):

> **Mac Catalina Issues**
>
> \[…\] We have therefore decided to ***replace the current EV3 Lab software and EV3 Programming App with a completely new app***, called LEGO® MINDSTORMS® Education EV3 Classroom. Featuring a coding language based on Scratch, EV3 Classroom will initially launch for macOS in November 2019 and in spring 2020 for iOS, Windows 10, Android and Chrome. EV3 Classroom will offer a consistent experience, features, and content across all devices.

As such, it would appear that this is the only official release you can now download for MacOS from their site.

If you have not yet upgraded your Mac to Catalina, you might be able to use the Mindstorms Lab download from the **Retired Products** section, where the same warning is included.

If you're unable to locate it on the Retired Products section, a direct link may be available here: LME-EV3\_Full-setup\_1.4.2\_en-US\_OSX.dmg

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms, mac
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# Question
Title: What are the curve radii for the curved slope pieces?
Does anyone have a table with the curve radii for the curved slope pieces?

If not, does anyone have a good idea for measuring a third point on the curve?

Since I know the front and the back "coordinates" of the curve piece, I need a third point to get the radius. I was thinking about making some sort of jig, but I don't have any good ideas.

# Answer
On reddit, user Pegajace used AutoCAD and LDraw models to produce the following results:

From the album https://i.stack.imgur.com/LOAeL.jpg

Probably, the ones with 100.0 LDU and 170.00 LDU radii are correct, however the other ones that don't report an integral number of LDUs are probably slightly off.

I remember a presentation from a Lego Designer Michael 'Mike' Psiaki (who worked among others on the roller-coaster and Saturn V sets) at the LEGO Portugal fan weekend 2018 where the radii were presented in a table and only one curved slope had a non-integral radius. Unfortunately taking pictures of the presentation was discouraged.
> 7 votes

# Answer
These curves have been approximated by the contributors to the LDraw project. You can download free software to view and use the part files, from which you can approximate other points on the curve. For example, here is an LDraw part file shown in "wire-frame" mode:

LDraw parts are drawn in increments of the "LDraw Unit" (LDU) in which a standard 1x1 brick is 20 LDU wide by 24 LDU high (not including the top stud). By examining the part in an LDraw viewer, I was able to establish the coordinates of some of the points on the curve:
> 6 votes

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Tags: piece-information, slope
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# Question
Title: How does one identify the designers of a LEGO set?
I'm looking for tips to identify the Lego Designers that have worked on a given particular released recent set. Ideally, I would like to find an online resource that has this information for as much sets as possible, but I'll also consider other options as answers.

# Answer
One resource I know of that can be considered both correct and up to date is the LEGO set designers' BrickLists.

In a few other cases (mostly for larger releases, like in the Ideas line) one might find an interview with the original submitter and the designer who finalized the product for release:
> 6 votes

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Tags: design, set-database
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# Question
Title: Displaying Minifigs and avoiding discolouration
I have just made some frames (IKEA box frame, white mount board, 70 2x4 white bricks per frame, and super glue) to display some of my minifigure collection:

Really pleased with the results (and even my wife is happy to have them on display in the house). I am however a little anxious about discolouration as some of the minifigures, especially the Star Wars ones, are reasonably valuable. I will hang them up the stairs in our house which does face North, so may be worrying unnecessarily. However would like to understand if there is anything else I should be doing to protect them. For instance, is discolouration due to UV light, and can you buy a clear UV film to put on the perspex?

Would love to find a way to put my collection on display to enjoy it, but ensuring that I don't ruin it in the process.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Taking a recommendation from our friends over on Photography there are a couple of options available to you:

> The best and most common form of protection from fading would be the selection of **UV glass or acrylic**. Any framing store will have these options available at multiple price points with trade offs such as glare or less glare, scratch resistant or scratch prone, and tint(green) or no tint.
>
> \[Another option would be **sprays** \- for example Krylon UV Resistant Clear Coating Spray\] is made for use on artwork that is either outside or near windows. They offer the product in gloss and matte finish as well. Krylon is a very well respected brand, and I believe this will be the easiest and cheapest solution to the problem, albeit not necessarily the best.
>
> Another spray on option would be Premier Imaging Products Print Shield. It is a lacquer based protective spray that is designed for inkjet prints. It also works on photo papers and canvas materials. They specify up to a 2x lightfastness increase, elimination of gloss differential, non yellowing formula, and a reduction in scuffing. The results have been tested by an independent lab (Wilhelm Research) to last up to 166 years with certain Epson papers and regular glass, and over 200 years with UV filtering glass.

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Tags: minifigures, storage
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title: Any idea what this part is?

text:
# Question
Title: Any idea what this part is?
I have bought a mixed bag, with not many booklets. This LEGO part has no part number, I'm trying to find it's set number.

# Answer
This should be this part Windscreen 8 x 6 x 2 Curved which appeared only in one set wit those stickers: Separatist Shuttle 8036
> 8 votes

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification
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# Question
Title: LEGO figures from the loading screen of Instructions App
Where could I find these two LEGO minifigures? I've found this screenshot in the LEGO Instructions app.

# Answer
At this point in time we probably won't get an exact match for each piece, but this is what we've got so far:

---
> 5 votes

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Tags: minifigure-identification
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title: Is this a real Technic cloak?

text:
# Question
Title: Is this a real Technic cloak?
I found a cloak piece in some used LEGO I bought from a former LEGO employee. The cloak does not say LEGO on it, but it fits perfectly onto Technic figures with a satisfying pop and matches the contours of their bodies.

Is this a real LEGO piece?

I should note that the LEGO I bought had a small amount of junk mixed in from other toy brands.

# Answer
this is a Playmobil cape, from the Zorro figure
> 19 votes

# Answer
Yeah, what *Michael Verschaeve* suggested in comments. Looks like a *Playmobil* cloak.
> 7 votes

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Tags: part-identification, technic, clone-brands
---


# Question
Title: How can I upload .ev3 files to my brick under macOS Catalina
After updating my Mac to macOS Catalina I can no longer run the previous Mindstorms software. The new tool "Mindstorms Home" doesn't allow for opening .ev3 files and uploading them to the brick.
Does anyone know of another way to upload the contents of .ev3 files to the EV3 brick?
Via the Mac or via iOS perhaps?

# Answer
The only way to compile a .ev3 file to a .rbf file is with the "EV3 Lab" software that is not compatible with macOS 10.15 Catalina.

So your options are:

1. Run Windows or an older version of macOS in a virtual machine, such as VirtualBox
2. Find someone that can send you the compiled .rbf file, then use a tool such as ev3duder to transfer the program to the EV3.
3. Write a new program in the new scratch-based programming software.
> 5 votes

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Tags: ev3, software, mac, ios
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# Question
Title: Overview on how to use special Technic parts?
I just came out of my "Dark Age" inspired by my kids growing up and getting more and more out of Duplo and into Lego. I bought a mixed lot of Technic parts and man, there are a lot of new parts!

So the question is: Are there any resources on how a part is typically used?

E.g. how are this 2 parts used?

# Answer
In general, the best strategy would be to look up instructions for a set in which the piece is used. Also a good strategy: ask here ;)

For the specific parts you mentioned, this picture might be helpful:

The 6641 element switches a driving ring in three positions, either engaging the left clutch gear (18946), the right clutch gear or neutral position in which neither is engaged...

My favorite set these elements are used in is is 8043:

This set has 4 motors, however one of the motors is used to turn switches consisting out of the discussed elements to ultimately provide 6 functions: left & right driving and turning the upper part on one position of the switch, while operating the digger (bucket, middle arm, lower arm) on the other position.
> 6 votes

# Answer
The best way to see the intended usage of a part is to look at its name, or to find the sets the part appears in and check the instructions where and how it is used.

For your particular examples:

This is called Technic Changeover Catch and it is used mainly to engage the transmission driving ring to the clutch gears.

This part is the previously mentioned gear with clutch, which is used to connect the driving and driven axles in transmissions.

Their combined usage is for example illustrated in the instructions for 42039:

Here, depending on the position of the changeover catch, the thick gray driving ring is either connected to the red gear with clutch or not, thereby making or breaking the connection between the parallel black axles.
> 4 votes

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Tags: piece-information, technic
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title: Identify this dinosaur build

text:
# Question
Title: Identify this dinosaur build
I acquired a random lot of LEGO bricks and came across this small dinosaur build. I can't find it anywhere. Pictured is about 35 pieces, but It is probably incomplete because even this had been broken in 2 parts.

Includes 4 dark green cheese wedges and 2 lime inverse 2x2 45 degree slopes and 2 white eye print 1x1 round tiles. Searching through sets that include those parts however did not help me.

Is this an official build? It seems a bit too polished to be just some kid's MOC.

# Answer
Creative Supplement Set No: 10693-1

Searched on the curved green slope (the tail)
> 9 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Can you identify this modified plate?

text:
# Question
Title: Can you identify this modified plate?
A friend asked me to identify an element, but I have no idea either. Customary search on BrickLink modified bricks/plates/tiles categories didn't give results. I do not have any additional information besides this picture.

# Answer
This looks like Plate, Modified 2 x 8 with Door Rail in yellow.

It's not easy to find because you would think it's a 1x8 plate modified rather than a 2x8.

Additional link: Plate, Modified 2 x 8 with Door Rail at rebrickable.
> 10 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: EV3 program runs fine when connected to PC but does not respond when copied to the brick
I am building the race car mentioned in the LEGO Mindstorms discovery book using an EV3 brick.

The problem I am facing is that the driving program runs fine when the brick is connected to the PC via USB. I can run it, I can use the remote control and test the car to steer, move back and forward as long as I like.

However, once I transfer the program to the brick, and run it without PC, it responds to the remote only twice and then stops responding.

This is very weird because if there was a problem in the program, it should not run in the first place even from PC directly, right?

So I guess there is something wrong in my program when it gets transferred to the brick.

# Answer
Thanks for the comments. I figured it out and the mistake was simple. I had two separate and independent program sequences each with its own start point in one program window. One sequence was for testing purpose to see if everything works and the 2nd sequence was the actual driving block. As I am new to this setup, I guess one window should have just one program sequence.

Once I deleted the test block and kept only the driving sequence, everything works fine. Posting this just in case some newbie might find it helpful in future.

For the veterans, I hope my understanding is correct that in one window, there should be only one start point.
> 1 votes

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms, programming
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title: Can you identify these arch-way pieces

text:
# Question
Title: Can you identify these arch-way pieces
I'm considering starting a project inspired by some of the Arab-style buildings I've seen. Most of them use a sort of curved archway around the windows. I can't figure out how to duplicate it. Can anyone identify the pieces used here to form the curved archways?

Any other suggestions for making a cool arab scene (for a relatively new builder)

# Answer
> 7 votes
You are, most likely, interested in identifying following arch:

Brick, Arch 1 x 3 x 2

The other arch as seen in second picture is the following one:

Brick, Arch 1 x 3 x 3

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Tags: part-identification, building
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# Question
Title: Can you identify these column decorators?
I want to decorate some columns with these little round ionic scroll-looking things. Does anyone know the part number?

# Answer
Brick, Modified 1 x 1 with Scroll with Hollow Stud

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=20310&idColor=2
> 10 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Can the Powered Up app be used to directly control the Boost Move Hub?
I have the LEGO Boost kit, and I'm wondering if I can control it directly using the Powered Up app rather than programming it using the Boost app. Is this possible?

# Answer
> 7 votes
As of the Powered Up app version 3.0, this is possible.

---

Old answer:

As of August 2018, this is not possible. However, TLG has stated that they plan to add more compatibility to the Powered Up system, and this will likely be available as a firmware update in the future:

> Q. Will all different Powered Up components (Boost, WeDo, Train, etc) be able to communicate and control each other, e.g. running a Boost program sequence using a Powered Up hub or using sensors with Powered Up hubs?
>
> A. It is the aim that the Powered UP platform will work together across both with the wired and wireless connection. Some of these connections are not implemented yet and will come through firmware and app updates.

# Answer
> 2 votes
On February 2020, this has been possible for a while now, and have been playing with it. (Power Up app version 3.0)

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Tags: boost, powered-up
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title: How to obtain a missing part?

text:
# Question
Title: How to obtain a missing part?
I'm building the 21320 LEGO Ideas Dinosaur Fossils set. Looks like there is a part missing. I only have one of the part in the attached image. How can I identify the part number and obtain it?

# Answer
> 2 votes
This part is 6047220: Plate W. Bow 2X2X2/3. You can get it from Bricklink, **but first** try the official LEGO replacement parts service. They will most probably send you a free replacement part and with your report you are contributing to the quality assurance project of LEGO, helping them avoid such cases in the future.

P.S. Still before, check the box, the bags, the building area and any partially completed builds for mistakes (like using it instead of a Plate W. Bow **1**X2X2/3). There is a non-negligible chance your part is hiding somewhere, and everybody is much better off if you find it before you take the other steps.

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Tags: piece-information, replacement-parts, ideas
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# Question
Title: Is it possible to use a switch with three conditionals and the color sensor to compare?
I am using an EV3 robot.

Is there a way to program it using a switch, or another way, to compare multiple colors?

The goal is to have the robot act as a car and use the color sensor to recognize red to stop, yellow to slow down and green to go in any given order.

Thanks!

# Answer
> 1 votes
Yes, a switch statement is present in EV3-G. Such statement would look like this:

However, the only colors you can switch against are black, blue, green, yellow, red, white and brown (the basic lego colors). So unfortunately no orange.

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Tags: ev3, sensor-colour
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# Question
Title: Does Power Functions 88002 fit a gray-era train and run on gray-era tracks?
Is the Power Functions Train Motor (set 88002) the right height for a gray-era train (set 7745)? Does the Power Functions Train Motor run OK on gray-era tracks?

# Answer
As seen in this video, it is possible to add Power Functions to set 7745 and run the train on gray tracks

Lego Train 7745 with Power Functions

photo from Brickshelf gallery

Another video Lego 7745 powerfunktion
> 4 votes

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Tags: trains, power-functions
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title: Booty Bay from World of Warcraft

text:
# Question
Title: Booty Bay from World of Warcraft
I would like to build a replica of Booty Bay from World of Warcraft. Here's some screenshots:

To make the ramps angled correctly, I'm planning on using something like part # 44570:

Can you help me find the other side of this hinge?

How do I get the platforms to curve around in in a circle to replicate the bay?

I'm considering using brown Technic axles and twine to achieve the 'rugged jungle' look. Is that a good idea? Is there a way to get Technic axles shifted to a 30 degree or 45 degree angle?

# Answer
Technic has plenty of angled connectors named #1 to #6. Below is a #4 - part 42156.

However, it may be easier to use part 53585, which is an angled ball joint, in tandem with 32174, a ball socket. This allows you to create any angle you want, but those angles won't be permanently sturdy.

For creating a curved dock, you can use hinge pieces like 2429/2430, or you can connect plates with only 1 stud between them and use that as a hinge.
> 1 votes

# Answer
You asked:

> *"To make the ramps angled correctly, I'm planning on using something* *like Part #44570*
>
> *Can you help me find the other side of this hinge?"*

Or maybe this x 2.
> 3 votes

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information, design
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# Question
Title: Problem With Bionicle Joint Sockets Cracking, Repair Options?
I'm pretty sure that serious *Bionicle* fans have all dealt with cracking of the joint socket pieces. However, is super-gluing the broken parts a solution? I'm worried that the joint socket won't be elastic enough for the joint piece to enter, or even that it might crack again.

# Answer
Super-glue? Nope, no super-gluing if *LEGO* has anything to say about it.

This is probably a duplicate question, but if you contact *LEGO* directly, they will replace the part for free. Follow this older post for details.
> 1 votes

# Answer
The socket joints from around 2008-2010 were poorly designed. They were both too thin and too tight, so cracking was a very common problem.

Because the issue is the shape of the part, super glue doesn't do much. I tested it out on of my broken joints and the parts cracked again the first time I connected it. So don't bother with that.

What may help is sanding the inside of the socket's prongs down to make it less tight during insertion. I tested this out on a few of my sockets. Sanded sockets took 100 insertions without cracking while the ones that weren't broke after 20-30. However, I've also heard that the 2008 joints crack after sitting too long in a connected state, which sanding may not prevent.
> 4 votes

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Tags: technic, repair, bionicle, replacement-parts
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# Question
Title: Is a N2 or CO2 paintball tank a viable power source for a LEGO pneumatic Engine?
I would like to know how a LEGO pneumatic engine would perform when powered with a nitro (N2, HPA) or CO2 tank. I have seen a few RC cars powered with air (from soda bottles), so I am wondering if it would be advisable to power such an vehicle with a much more powerful but also heavyer paintball tank.

There are few pneumatic engines designs, like this Lego Pneumatic Engine switchless LPE-V4-DIHC or this Lego 1500 rpm V8 or this (defective) LEGO V8 pneumatic.

I am not building one yet. But I am very... very curious about how effective such an engine would be when powered with a paintball tank... for how long would it be able to run? Has someone already tried that?

There have been RC cars with LPE engines but all I have seen was powered with soda bottles. I am planing an RC car of my own and I'm going with a simple electric solution but, an LPE would be sweet if it worked for more than a few minutes.

---

**Precisions**: I would like to know how long such an engine could run with a 45/4500 N2 tank for example.

@Joubarc found that such engines can run with a max of 90psi. The inline-4 on that page runs at max speed with a 4bar (58psi) intake (like most other LPE I saw). It means that we can expect slightly higher pressure requirements if the engine is delivering power to a system.

N2 tanks are simply filed with air which is cheap (when you have a compressor ;) With the example of a 45/4500psi tank how long could the car run?

Also comes the question of the weight, with a carbon fiber tank weighting over 0.8kg is it really a good idea?

Would CO2 be a viable solution? With a maximum of 6bar should I expect condensation in the pistons? Would it really be a problem to consider?

Simply put do you know if this would work. If not, have you heard of any example that was successful or an epic fail?

---

**Edit**: I received an answer from LPEpower:

> I have no experience with long term running engines using **co2 tanks, but the engines do run fine with them**. Perhaps you could warm up the co2 coming out of the cartridge a bit, to prevent condensation. The **real danger** in my opinion **is the low temperatures** that the expanding co2 gas creates. **Those are not good for the rubber seals**. So if you'd manage to heat up the gas using a coil wire wrapped around the intake tube, connected to some batteries, you could prevent that from happening.

I guess I should probably forget about the CO2 and invest in some HPA gear.

# Answer
Apprently, it is possible to generate up to 37psi with LEGO pneumatics parts only.

LEGO penumatics can withstand more, however. Engines similar to the one you want to build can work with a recommended pressure intake of 90psi; a maximal (but not recommended) of 120psi is mentionned.

So I think it all boils down to the pressure your N2 or CO2 tanks can generate, under 100psi should be OK. If not, I suppose there could be some way to get it down to that level.

As for using N2 or CO2 instead of air, I don't think there is much reason for concern, since both are faily harmless and present in air anyway.
> 7 votes

# Answer
You shouldn't use a CO2 tank with the pneumatic cylinders because it could pop the pistons out of their casings. I would take some pop bottles (2 liters), glue some T-shaped connectors in the lid and fill it with air using bike pump.

**Warning.** Do Not Go over 100psi with these pop bottles or they will explode. So wear saftey glasses when filling them.
> 2 votes

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Tags: technic, pneumatic
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# Question
Title: Can you identify some parts on the Chinese New Year Temple Fair set #80105
I'm trying to plan a smaller version of the Chinese New Year Temple Fair.

* Can you help me identify the parts used to make the plants on page 30 of the instruction manual?
* Can you help me identify the 2 little curved parts used to make the roof on page 69?
* Can you help me identify the dragon-pole-thing and the tubular thing it's connected to on page 74.

Thanks. Link to Instructions

# Answer
> 5 votes
1. *Part #24866 - Plate, Round 1 x 1 with Flower Edge (5 Petals).*
2. *Part #32607 - Plant Plate, Round 1 x 1 with 3 Leaves.*
3. *Part #87580 - Plate, Modified 2 x 2 with Groove and 1 Stud in Center (Jumper).*
4. *Part #19119 - Plant Flower Stem with Bar and 6 Stems.*
5. *Part #49307 - Brick, Modified 1 x 1 x 2/3 No Studs, Curved Top.*
6. Part #15070 - Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Tooth Vertical.
7. *Part #36017- Minifigure, Weapon Sword Hilt with Dragon Head.*
8. *Part #64644 - Minifigure, Utensil Telescope.*

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Can you identify if this part is original?
Recently, I bought a LEGO part from Bricklink (Technic, Steering Arm with 4 Ball Joints with Black Wheel Hub (x872 / x873)).

I'm not sure if it is an original part or not, because I don't see any LEGO trademark or ID number on the element and I cannot find any reference for that part. The only text on the brick is a single digit (e.g. "7").

Quality of the item is really good, so I believe it's original, but I need to be sure.

# Answer
I got such pieces from sealed set (long time ago though) and none of these parts have any sort of LEGO brand identification.

So it could be legit part after all.
> 3 votes

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information, clone-brands
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title: What LEGO piece is this?

text:
# Question
Title: What LEGO piece is this?
Could anyone identify this piece?

# Answer
> 11 votes
Welcome. This is 57518 Technic, Link Tread Wide with Two Pin Holes.

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Issues with my LEGO Land Rover Defender - Rear Wheel Keeps Popping Off
I just finished the assembly of the Land Rover Defender Technic model and it appears I have trouble in the rear... the rear left tire keeps popping off every time I try to roll forward. It is secure, then it immediately pops off after a very short run. I have tried to review online videos and reassemble the rear end and have also refitted the rear bumper and wheel well arches.

Do I have something wrong with transmission or do you think it is something with the actual suspension assembly?

# Answer
I've read about someone having exact the same problem with the 42030 (Volvo L350 F wheel loader) years ago. And basically, the wheels aren't that different with this model.

Apparently, people sometimes don't realize how much force they need to use to click the wheels on.

The problem is with these pieces:

fitting in these pieces:

You need to use much more force then you ordinarily do building a Technic or other LEGO set. You need to hear a very audible "click". Afterwards, its very hard to separate the pieces without damaging them.
> 6 votes

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Tags: technic, vehicle
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title: Is this assembly legal?

text:
# Question
Title: Is this assembly legal?
This question might be strongly opinion-based, but I also think it might be interesting. I know there is a guide for Lego builders to decide if their build is legal or not. However, the cases of this guide focus on assemblies where the final configuration has some issues with friction or internal stress. But at the same time, there are assemblies, which do not deal with either of these, except at the moment when they are put together. Here is an example:

Is this considered to be legal or not? If not, what about this one:

# Answer
> 14 votes
The answer depends on your definition of "legal". In the strictest sense, it means "can be used in official LEGO sets", and in this case, this is definitely not legal, as the axle is not designed to bend that way, unlike the many various hinge and joint pieces.

On the other hand, "legal" might mean "does not cause damage to the pieces", and in this sense it is a borderline case, as you can see the end of the axle retaining its slightly bent shape, but it's nothing that couldn't be fixed with a little more force applied in the correct place and direction.

Whereas on the far end of the legality spectrum, the status of any technique or piece is subject of individual opinion or decision. You are certainly free to employ any combination of parts, use 3rd party parts, paint, glue or cut pieces to your heart's content and shouldn't fear any reprisal from the LEGO Police. Collections curated by others, events or competitions might (and often do) apply a restriction on at least a subset of these, so if you are not in the position to judge the legality, it's best to directly ask those who are.

EDIT based on Michael's comment:

Another criterion in the definition of legality is often "can be easily taken apart by a child", which this design is clearly not.

# Answer
> 8 votes
From LEGO point of view this definitely would be illegal to assemble such axle with particular frame since you cannot build and then take this apart without bending the axle.

But from AFOL's point of view this could be a doable solution for a MOC if there is a real need. There's plenty of space to bend the axle and it won't get damaged.

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Tags: building
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title: Any way to make this setup "tighter"?

text:
# Question
Title: Any way to make this setup "tighter"?
I'm trying to build a robotic arm, and I had the following built so that there was the minimum possible movement created by the gear wheel (that connects to the worm).

However, there is still play, where all the pieces are pushed together by the force of the gear wheel the worm drive is connected to... this leave a small (but significant) gap, allowing the cross axel to slide.

Is there any way to build this without the play, as it doesn't help when I'm trying to build an arm with a fairly high level of accuracy?

# Answer
You could introduce an arbitrarily sized gap between the red and yellow bushes in the depicted design, thus forcing the other yellow bush and the black gear against the frame. If this gap collapses due to the forces generated by the worm screw, you could place thinner, non-LEGO pieces (washers, bits of paper, etc.) between them to act as spacers. This won't win any prizes for beauty or elegance, but it might just reduce slop to bearable levels. It would also increase friction.
> 7 votes

# Answer
There are 2 ways to get it tighter. First is to use the new worm gear part: http://rebrickable.com/parts/15457/Technic-Worm-Gear-2-Axle-Holes

The other is to use an axle with stop. Have the stop on the end which has the worm gear pulling it in. Not sure which end that is, so experimenting would be your best bet.
> 9 votes

# Answer
Pre-tensioning or pre-loading, the way that most CNC machines work. In essence this means a constant force pushing one way, so that the slop doesn't matter. Often you can do this with gravity, and if slop at one (or two) when you rotate is acceptable then that may be all you need. If you do have variable-gravity parts that need pre-tensioning, try to make that dynamic so you're not fighting both gravity and preload on some movements.

It may be possible to work around some of that using strings'n'springs, so you have hidden counter-pulls on some heavy parts (the way old school drafting desks and anglepoise lamps do).

As you might gather from high-end metal work using springs or gravity for pre-load, there's no way to actually machine anything without some slop. Lego has a fair bit of slop by design, so you're going to find it even harder.
> 6 votes

# Answer
Use LEGO Rubber Bands as spacers.

LEGO has several sizes of rubber bands - some are quite small, and they are perfect for small spacers when doing builds like this. Just twist them a couple times and you're set.
> 0 votes

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Tags: building
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# Question
Title: Does LEGO no longer support NXT 2.0 at all?
I am running Mac OS X 10.15 (Catalina) and the EV3 software can't detect my NXT 2.0 using USB.

# Answer
LEGO officially stopped supporting NXT in 2015, however, as of 2019, the original NXT programming software is still available on the official LEGO MINDSTORMS web page.

The original NXT programming software and EV3 desktop programming software are both 32-bit, so cannot run on macOS 10.15 or later.

The new EV3 programming software based on Scratch does not work with NXT. So the only way to program NXT on macOS 10.15 is with 3rd party software such as NXC/NQC or leJOS or by installing a macOS or Windows virtual machine to run the old desktop software.
> 7 votes

# Answer
The NXT is no longer for sale by Lego, and I don't think they offer technical support for the NXT platform anymore. However, the EV3 software does support NXT. If you can't connect the software to the brick, it might be a driver issue. You can download the official NXT "Fantom" driver from the downloads page of the Mindstorms website \- just scroll down until you see the "NXT Software Download" section. Alternatively, you could just download and install the full NXT 2.0 software package from that same source - that's probably your best bet to get things working.
> 5 votes

# Answer
`EV3 Classroom` is supposed to work with the NXT brick.

https://education.lego.com/en-us/downloads/mindstorms-ev3/software
> 1 votes

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms, nxt, software, mac
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title: How to locate pneumatic leak

text:
# Question
Title: How to locate pneumatic leak
I have a simple pneumatic claw with a 2 pump compressor that I built somewhat recently. It worked fine for a while, producing up to 4 bars of pressure, but then the system wouldn't increase the pressure of the system more than 2 bars maximum, usually stopping at a bit more than 1 bar and the pressure increased much slower. When I press on the the pumps in certain ways, the system will act normally, but I don't want to press on the pumps continuously. Is this due to a leak, or some other issue, possibly with the pumps? If so, how do I find out which piece is leaking? And how do I stop this from happening? Thanks.

# Answer
According to various sources, LEGO pneumatics is not designed to work above 3 (or maybe 4) bars of pressure, so your setup might have been damaged by the overpressure.

If you can "press on the the pumps in certain ways" then I would recommend starting your investigation there. As to actually locating the cause of the leakage, I have five main methods in mind:

## 1. Vision

The easiest and fastest way is to check all components for loose connections, punctures or cracks. In my experience, when pneumatic hoses are subjected to overpressure or excess mechanical stress, they usually fail by slipping off their connection points. So go over all your connections and ensure that all stiff tubes are pushed into the flexible hoses as far as they can go (4-5 mm at minimum, or about one "arm" of a pneumatic T-joint).

If that fails to reveal any problems, check the lenghts of the hoses for any punctures or hairline cracks, while the system is under pressure (as the cracks might close and seemingly disappear in the absence of a force that acts to open them from the inside).

## 2. Hearing

It can be hard to hear the sound of air hissing out of a tiny hole, especially with a compressor running, but if you can find a way to remove the compressor from the setup, you could be able to spot the point of failure.

Ideas to remove the compressor: \- Let it fill up a pneumatic tank, which is isolated from your system via a valve, then turn off the compressor and throw the pole of the valve open. \- Add a long enough hose between your system and the compressor so that you can set up the compressor a bit of distance away. \- Apply pressurized air to your system via some alternate means, like e.g. by blowing into a tube, or via an inflated balloon.

## 3. Feeling

If the hole is too small to see, the escaping air might still be felt on sensitive areas of skin, like fingertips or your cheeks. The hairs on the back of your hand might be helpful in amplifying the weak air movement into an observable feeling.

## 4. Bubbles

If all above methods have failed, you could consider submerging your system in water. Only do this, if you can remove ALL electronical components (motors, wires) to a safe distance, and only if your setup does not include pistons with metal shafts. After doing so, you only need to watch for the emerging bubbles to see where does air escape from. Note that your compressor pieces must remain above the waterline, or else they will try to pump water, which can damage your parts from the inside (or just stay there for a long time to come).

As an alternative for localizing holes in certain areas, consider applying soapy water to the suspected parts (Tip by JPhi1618 in comments).

## 5. Deconstruction and reconstruction

In the improbable case that even the submerging method has failed, you could deconstruct your system, inspect each part individually for their ability to produce/transport/direct/use pressure without loss, and then reassemble it with proven flawless parts.
> 4 votes

# Answer
LEGO Pneumatic system could consist of different elements like hoses, switches, pumps, cylinders and T-junctions. Each one may need different approach.

I could think of several ways of testing these issues.

First one might be a little hard, but depending on the issue could be a quick solution. This would works for any pneumatic element. You need to get into a quiet area and pump pneumatic system as much as you can. Then stop the compressor and if there is quick pressure drop you should listen for any air escape.

Next option is to use water. Depending on your model you could submerge it partially to cover pneumatic connections points while system is under full pressure. If you see any bubbles - that's your problematic area. You need to be cautious aroud any electric parts (motors, batteries and cables) if you have any. You are safe submerging every pneumatic element except cylinders, pumps and switches. Although, I think switches could be safe for water since they don't have metal parts.

In case partial submerging is not possible I could advise using water drops over the hose connection points. That is where hoses connect with everything else.

Testing pumps, cylinders and switches might be a little hard since they got moving parts and seals. If these elements are hard to remove from your model I would attach a closed circle system to each of such elements to pump the air and check if it leaks the air.

Alternatively, if your pneumatic system is easy to disassemble you could try swapping one element at a time and see if that has any effect. I would only do this with pumps, cylinders and switches once confirming hoses are not leaking any air.
> 3 votes

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Tags: piece-information, technic, building, repair, pneumatic
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title: Identify pieces for this Griffin

text:
# Question
Title: Identify pieces for this Griffin
I'd like to make just the top part of this griffin Can you help me identify the eye, ears, beak and that weird curvy white part on top? I think I can find the rest.

# Answer
The builder used *Set #70124 - Chima Eagle Legend Beast* as a template.

To see the online instructions for this set watch this ***HERE***. The bird's head construction is on page 14 at 53 seconds in.

For a list and description of all parts used look ***HERE***.

For further inspiration, check out creator *Markus Buhler*'s alternate Griffen build plus his tutorial ***HERE***.
> 7 votes

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information, design, part-database
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title: What set is this piece used for

text:
# Question
Title: What set is this piece used for
i have a Lego from the 80s. I can see there are space pieces in grey and blue. I am wondering if this piece is for a space set and if so which one. Any help much appreciated!!

# Answer
> 23 votes
These are Panel 4 x 4 x 6 Corner Convex Ribbed

They were mainly use as decorative pieces on corners in classic space sets.

In light grey they came only in one Set: Solar Power Transporter

(photo from Bricklink)

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Can anyone identify these Batman minifigures?
Can anyone tell me something about these minifigures? Are they custom-made or perhaps fake? I could find nothing about them.

# Answer
> 2 votes
After scouring all of the Batman minifigures catalogized by Brickset, I couldn't find any exact matches for any of the two torsos, but it is just as possible that these particular figures are not indexed by Brickset or have some kind of other name.

The wings of the right one seem peculiar to me, I suspect they are non-genuine.

Higher resolution photos could be helpful for further investigation, or you could check for the LEGO trademarks on each piece (they are usually hidden inside or on the underside) to determine if the base plastic pieces are genuine. If they are, the printing might still be 3rd party.

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Tags: minifigures, minifigure-identification
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title: Help! What set is this?

text:
# Question
Title: Help! What set is this?
I have a lego bag only. I am trying to figure out what set the bag goes to. It's bag number 3 and has pieces that look like they go to a green vehicle of some sort. Possibly a truck?

# Answer
> 8 votes
Spider-Man: Spider-Cycle Chase (Set 76004)

I found this by going to bricklink.com, searching for a recognizable piece, then seeing which sets that piece could be found in.

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Tags: set-identification, instructions
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# Question
Title: Can you identify these snowy icicles for me?
Can someone identify the part number for the downard pointing icicles in this scene?:

If I can get the little groups of 3 snowballs on the roof too, that would be great.

# Answer
Barb / Claw / Horn - Large Flexible

and

Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Tooth Vertical

Ice Cream Scoops
> 15 votes

# Answer
*Part #11439 - Minifigure, Weapon Sword, Jagged Edges.*
> 10 votes

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information
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# Question
Title: Can you identify these curved bricks for me?
(I don't care about the decal, I just need the general shape)

# Answer
> 11 votes
Large one is Brick, Round Corner 10 x 10 with Slope 33 Edge, Axle Hole, Facet Cutout with Holographic Circuit Pattern Model Right (Sticker)

which is a decorated version of Brick, Round Corner 10 x 10 with Slope 33 Edge, Axle Hole, Facet Cutout

Smaller ones are Brick, Round Corner 4 x 4 Macaroni Wide with 3 Studs

# Answer
> 5 votes
The big one looks like 58846 Brick, Round Corner 10 x 10 with Slope 33 Edge, Axle Hole, Facet Cutout

The others look like 48092 Brick, Round Corner 4 x 4 Macaroni Wide with 3 Studs

# Answer
> 3 votes
There are three https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=48092&name=Brick,%20Round%20Corner%204%20x%204%20Macaroni%20Wide%20with%203%20Studs&category=%5BBrick,%20Round%5D#T=C

And as Dan said, the larger one is https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=58846&name=Brick,%20Round%20Corner%2010%20x%2010%20with%20Slope%2033%20Edge,%20Axle%20Hole,%20Facet%20Cutout&category=%5BBrick,%20Round%5D#T=C

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Tags: part-identification
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title: Help identifying wedge tile piece

text:
# Question
Title: Help identifying wedge tile piece
2 x 3 flat tile piece. Same size as 2 x 3 wedge plate but I cannot find anything listed with the smooth top. "P 9" marking on the back with "lego" stamp but no part id number.

# Answer
> 10 votes
What I thought was a lego mark is actually 0C31. This must be a megablok. Sorry for the confusion!

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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title: Which set did this assembly came from?

text:
# Question
Title: Which set did this assembly came from?
Does anyone know which set did this came from? I got a bundle without instructions, some of it's partially built. I have no idea how to finish it for my kids.

# Answer
> 8 votes
Looks like a custom build, so no instructions.

I'm basing this answer off two parts in the pic:

and

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Clip a wall to a 6 or 7L pole

text:
# Question
Title: Clip a wall to a 6 or 7L pole
I'm planning on making a wall 6 bricks tall. The wall will have some vertical clips coming out to clip to a vertical pole. Unfortunately, the only 6 or 7 length bars appear to have the little stopper knubs on them and I think this may interfere with the design. Is there a way to connect two 3/4 L bars together?

# Answer
You might want to look at Flex System tubing. It comes in a variety of lengths (including 6L and 7L) and doesn't have a stopper.

For what its worth, this is the technique that Jamie Berard used to create the downspout on the apartment in the Pet Shop:
> 10 votes

# Answer
You may want to try Hose, Rigid 3mm D. 6L / 4.8cm or 7-stud long Hose, Rigid 3mm D. 7L / 5.6cm

Rigid hoses are the same diameter as bars you've mentioned. However they are hollow. But they are hard so they stay where they should when attached to clips.

You can also look at other lengths available on Bricklink.
> 8 votes

# Answer
That might be a bit too obvious a solution so maybe you have already considered that and discarded it for whatever reason. But if you have enough clips (or can increase the number of clips easily), you might not have to connect the 3L and 4L bars explicitly rather than just clipping them in next to each other in their own clips and living with the fact that they're not a single element.
> 7 votes

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Tags: technic, design
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title: Identification of blue and black tower

text:
# Question
Title: Identification of blue and black tower
Can someone help we with identifying this set?

# Answer
> 4 votes
The list of sets containing Black Brick, Arch 1 x 5 x 4

(or its alternate version) and the list of sets containing Blue Slope 33 2 x 2 Double

has no common element, therefore these parts have never appeared together in an official set, so this must be a custom creation.

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification
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title: Which brick is the gray one?

text:
# Question
Title: Which brick is the gray one?
I don't know which brick the gray one is. Can anyone help me?

# Answer
> 11 votes
The gray part is a 43713 "Wedge 6 x 4 Triple Inverted Curved". It has appeared in 231 sets since it was introduced in 2003. Your picture looks like light gray. This part has only been in 28 sets in Light Gray or Light Bluish Gray.

I found it on bricklink by searching for "curved 6 x 4". I also tried "curved 4 x 6", "fuselage", and "bow" (as in the bow of a boat) before finding the right search.

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Tags: part-identification, star-wars
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# Question
Title: What is the name of this set with projectiles and large gray wheels?
What is the name of this set? It appears to be castle or medieval themed.

# Answer
> 10 votes
It is set 7020 named Army of Vikings with Heavy Artillery Wagon

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Tags: set-identification
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title: How to disassemble these parts?

text:
# Question
Title: How to disassemble these parts?
I have these parts put together really tightly and have no idea how to separate them. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Sorry for the black color, I do not have them in any of the brighter colors, so I put the separated ones on the photo for clarity.

# Answer
That is unfortunate situation. What makes your matter worse is that these two parts come from quite old set (OP mentioned 8466). Aged parts tend to have stronger clutch power than the newer parts. Even if these two parts were new they would be pretty hard to take apart. In this situation I think the only solution is taking sharp knife (like x-acto or utility knife) and gently go around the edge where two parts get together to try and make them go apart slightly. I would recommend using the edge of the blade, rather than the sharp point first. Don't try to disassemble them with one go, but rather do it gently around with your knife until you get some progress.

Alternatively, if parts cannot be disassembled, you have two more options:

1. Get in touch with LEGO Support and complain about it. It is highly likely they will just ship you new parts, despite set being so old.
2. You can buy them yourself. Parts are:

32017 - Technic, Liftarm 1 x 5 Thin

32124 - Technic, Plate 1 x 5 with Smooth Ends, 4 Studs and Center Axle Hole
> 2 votes

# Answer
I don't know what pieces you have in your collection to build the perfect most creative piece separator, so my answer will be based on, *"What common items do many people have on hand in a house?"*

* Try a dull butter knife.

***EDIT:***

Or we can just ignore what I said, and make something simple with pieces many of us should have.

* Find any sized beam 5 pin holes or above.
* Insert some pegs in the holes.
* Place stuck pieces on top.
* Apply downward pressure mainly holding from the black piece (Part 32017) to create a starting point of separation.
* Once a gap has started it can be easily "unzipped" apart by running a finger nail/plastic knife down the gap.
> 5 votes

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Tags: disassembly
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# Question
Title: What LEGO brick is available in the most colors?
I've read that the most commonly produced LEGO brick is the 1x2 gray plate. I am at the stage in Lego collecting that I'd like to make a Color Chart. This is easier said than done.

My question is this: what LEGO piece is available in the most colors? You'd think it would be the 1x2 plate or brick, but looking at Bricklink, it's confusing.

I think LEGO should offer color charts. I'd be interested in seeing if other collectors have succeeded in making color charts of what exists?

# Answer
> 13 votes
Again, Bricklink can help with the answer: When downloading the catalog, you specify "Part and Color Codes". This will give you a list of all part numbers and the color codes they have been produced in. To answer the question, some scripting has to be done to count lines with equal parts, etc.

To make it short, this is the top 10 list:

1. Duplo Brick 2x2 (53 colours)
2. Slope 30 1x1x2/3, tile 1x2 with Groove, Brick 1x1 (51 colours each)
3. Plate 1x2 (50 colours)
4. Brick 2x2 (49 colours)
5. Brick 1x2 (47 colours)
6. Plate 1x1 (44 colours)
7. Brick 2x4 (43 colours)
8. Plate, round 1x1 straight side (42 colours)

So, it was a close race with a surprising winner from planet Duplon. Looking at the entries I realise that Chrome colors seem to be missing from some parts. They are probably not listed when they don't appear in regular sets (custom parts).

**EDIT** The colour number distribution is very skewed. More than 80% of all 16500+ parts come in only one colour. This is because every printed part gets its own number. There are 2248 minifig torsos, most of them numbered 973pb.....

Anyway, it is fun to browse the catalog.

# Answer
> 5 votes
BrickLink's statistics in Aziraphale's answer give a good answer if you're only asking about parts that were commercially available in sets. But Lego has made a 2x2 tile in every single color, for their internal color charts. They don't leave Lego's hands very often, but we do have pictures :) Here are some of them: https://www.flickr.com/photos/rjmorton/4879215625

And those are just standardized colors that were in Lego's official palette. If we're including test colors that never ended up being used, we're back to the basic 2x4 brick, which Lego's plastic providers like Bayer, BASF, GE, and Borg-Warner (as well as Lego's own factories) produced in thousands of varieties: http://thebrickblogger.com/2011/05/lego-bayer-test-strikes/

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Tags: piece-information, colour
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title: Identify this tire

text:
# Question
Title: Identify this tire
Can anyone identify this tire in the photo below? Looking for brand & part number.

It's black, rubber, narrow. Solid inside (no space for an inner tube). Slightly larger than 1" diameter.

There are no letters or numbers on it at all. I acquired it with a lot of building bricks, Lego and other, which is why I believe it may be related to one of the building brick brands.

# Answer
Although i'm not entirely sure, this might be a tire from Cobi
> 5 votes

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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title: Frame Rate recommended for Stop Motion?

text:
# Question
Title: Frame Rate recommended for Stop Motion?
I do Stop Motion with LEGO, (which is just great for SMA) and I was wondering (because you guys are the pros), what frame rate per second, (fps) you would recommend?

I use 15, and occasionally 33. Also I was wondering, how extreme I should take this Stop Motion Animation? Should it just be my hobby, or should I use to get me money?

# Answer
The ideal frame rate is 24 fps due to the brain holding an image for .051... seconds

However in stop motion animation this can be quite tedious and time consuming.

So with that in mind I'd recommend a frame rate of between 15 and 18.

As for your ideas on making money out of it, I'd say go for it.
> 7 votes

# Answer
The standard frame rate for most LEGO stop motion animations is 15, although this may vary and will be enforced by the video compiling software you use to put your animation together. Less than 15 will cause some frames to be added, while having more may skip a few. This also extends to 30 FPS, although that many frames is very time consuming, hence the 15 frame standard.
> 2 votes

# Answer
The best frame rate depends on what are you making or if you have started only a few times ago. If you started now, I recommend 12 FPS to start learning the movements basic.

If you already started months/years ago the best frame rate is 15 FPS. But if you want a really smooth look or something else, use 24.
> 0 votes

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Tags: building, minifigures
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# Question
Title: Non-standard diameter pole - reinforcing a repair
I have (or rather my daughter has) a Fabuland umbrella which has been snapped off where it meets the base (probably over 30 years ago when her mum was a child).

I've seen Can I repair a broken LEGO brick with glue?, but in the best case the joint could only be as strong as the original plastic, and this is a weak spot where small hands are likely to use the pole as a lever (the base is an unusual design of slots, just visible in the BrickLink picture, and is a rather tight fit). So I thought I'd reinforce it, perhaps by gluing something like Brick, Round 2 x 2 with Axle Hole as the axle hole will also take a normal flagpole (3.18mm), but the umbrella pole is a little larger. Replacements are several pounds, and some of those are even broken in the same way.

Is there a slightly larger standard I don't know about - or would I be reduce to getting out the drill to make a reinforced version?

# Answer
One option might be to make yourself an ABS slurry by dissolving a sacrificial part of the desired color in Acetone:

This should be able to bond chemically with the ABS parts for a strong connection, and you'll have extra plastic material to work with, so you should even be able to make it stronger than the original design by building up the area slightly if desired.

You might want to practice on some other broken parts first to make sure that this works the way you expect.
> 8 votes

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Tags: repair
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# Question
Title: How can you make a hip holster for minifigs?
Is there a way to create a holster of some sort so you could attach a LEGO pistol to the side of a minifig, around the hips?

# Answer
> 23 votes
It's kinda chunky, but the best I can come up with is 42446 \+ 2555:

\+  =

It would leave a half-plate gap on one side if they only have 1 holster though, but at-least you keep the regular minifig legs.

**NOTE:** This probably wouldn't be considered a "legal" connection, due to the semi-octagonal shape of the leg connectors. It's definitely possible to put these pieces together, but it puts a bit of strain on the ring of the thin piece.

# Answer
> 23 votes
Three 1x1 plates, two 1x1 round bricks, and one 1x1 plate with clip.

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Tags: building, minifigures
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title: Can you identify these mountain pieces

text:
# Question
Title: Can you identify these mountain pieces
top view  side view  profile view  2 x 2 bricks added for size reference

# Answer
**Looks like:**
> 4 votes

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information
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title: Can you identify this axle coupling?

text:
# Question
Title: Can you identify this axle coupling?
Can you identify this piece. It can be used to join 2 axles together and I'd like to order more. I've also seen some without the cross shape inside which I think can join bars together.

side view

top view

# Answer
Looks like *Part #6538c - Technic, Axle Connector 2L (Smooth with x Hole + Orientation).*
> 8 votes

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information
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title: Anyone know the identity of this set?

text:
# Question
Title: Anyone know the identity of this set?
Came in a single unnumbered bag with standard 2011 markings.

# Answer
Based on the Tan Window 1 x 2 x 2 2/3 with Rounded Top and the 4 Red Brick, Modified 1 x 2 x 1 1/3 with Curved Top

This is from 10696-1: Medium Creative Brick Box
> 4 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Glasses in the pour technique

text:
# Question
Title: Glasses in the pour technique
I'd like to replicate this build The glasses that hold the claw/liquid appear to have a slightly wider mouth then the ones I have. Do I need a particular 1x1 round to do this?

# Answer
You might be thinking they have the normal holed stud on top, which would indeed be a bit smaller. But instead what is done here is that they put the parts upside down, I think. So it's the bottom opening of the standard round 1x1 brick that you see on the top there.

They likely achieved that by using a 2x2 round tile with a stud hole as base, rather than one with a normal stud. The "liquid" is then stuck with its bottom pin into the inside of the stud hole of the "glass".

At least those are my immediate impressions from looking at the picture.
> 24 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: How to make a Lego continuous conveyor belt
So I need to make a continuously working conveyor belt transporting blocks. I have seen this post, but additionally, as already said, I have to make it work continuously transporting blocks,so I have thought about this:

There are two problems I foresee:

1. Can conveyor belts be stacked one on top of the other? (they therefore would be slightly uphill)
2. How could I deal with turns?

For problem 2 I have imagined something like in this video:

LEGO Great Ball Contraption (GBC) Layout 2012.9

in which each ball (bricks in my idea) are stored into "tubs".

---

Alternatively if nothing else works I will have to fall back on seemingly easier to do rails. But rails are not conveyor belts. That is totally different.

Thank you in advance for any help.

# Answer
> 1 votes
If you want the belts to operating in a single plane, you could try having an angled blockage across the corner which diverts the blocks onto the next belt, like this.

If you don't mind them going slightly up hill then all you need to do is make the one it is dropping off finish up high and have the next one be underneath it. In your diagram the dark green belt runs right into the wall, in my diagram below the dark greening finishes mid-air and the block and drop onto the cyan one.

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Tags: technic, gears, robotic
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# Question
Title: Placing a rock piece at a 45 degree angle
I'd like to place this rock at a 45 degree angle to the ground. What's the simplest way to do that?

# Answer
The easiest and least obstructive way would be to use a 65578 Bar, Angled with Stud on End in conjunction with an Apollo stud.
> 5 votes

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Tags: design, angles
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# Question
Title: What's partial set 45100 - Education Story Starter worth?
I found this set in a thrift store. It's not 100% complete. The set consists of 1144 parts, divided into 14 bags, which are all unopened.

**The missing parts are:**
1 x 16x16 grey plate
The blue box itself
A tray with sorting compartments (there are two in the complete set, but I only have one)
A cardboard sheet divided into four parts (there are two in the set, but I only have one).

Does anyone have an idea about what it might be worth? And what if it were complete? Should I acquire the missing parts on Bricklink to get a complete set?

Thanks :-)

# Answer
> 4 votes
According to Bricklink, the value of all the pieces of set 45100 is currently $201.85 (March 2020). Subtract the value of one 16 x 16 baseplate and you have an idea of the value of all the individual pieces in the set. (https://www.bricklink.com/catalogPOV.asp?itemType=S&itemNo=45100&itemSeq=1&itemQty=1&breakType=M&itemCondition=N&incParts=Y)

New, sealed sets sell very little, but the average seems to be ~$200 according to the Bricklink price guide. I would list your new, incomplete one for slightly less than that. (https://www.bricklink.com/catalogPG.asp?S=45100-1&ColorID=0)

It will be difficult to make it a new, complete set given the scarcity of this set and the fact that you are missing the box and a tray. That said, these components are for sale (the box for $9 + shipping for example) but IMHO getting all the missing parts is going to cost you more than just listing what you have for slightly less $ than the complete set.

# Answer
> 5 votes
> Does anyone have an idea about what it might be worth? And what if it were complete?

According to Bricklink, a new, unopened version of this set goes for somewhere between 160€ and 200€, although there are lots listed for double the price as well.

Of the missing parts, the 1 x 16x16 grey plate is trivial to replace, and the others can be bought for 4-6€ each (except the cardboard, it costs less than 1€) as well. This means, there is probably no great difference in the prices of a complete set and your incomplete one, maybe about 15-20€ for all the missing parts (depending on shipping and handling costs).

> Should I acquire the missing parts on Bricklink to get a complete set?

That entirely depends on what do you wish to do with it. If you'd just resell it, there would be advantages to completing it, but as there are not much demand for this set and all other offers are for new, unopened ones, I doubt yours (complete or incomplete, but opened nonetheless) would be competitive without price reduction.

If you plan to use it as intended, the missing elements might prove invaluable, so in this case it would be recommended to get at least the baseplate and the cardboard.

However, if it would just serve as a playset or a parts pack, then it does not make much sense to get any of the missing parts. The blue box might be a great all-purpose storage bin, but if you need one, you already can buy any brand on- or offline. The same goes for the sorting tray.

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Tags: education, value
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title: Bag #3, no instructions, no box

text:
# Question
Title: Bag #3, no instructions, no box
I bought a box of LEGO bricks at a flea market. This bag came in it and we want to figure out what it is. The polybag says "3" and the number on it is 135149 but that’s all I have.

# Answer
> 13 votes
I think that is 7937 "Train Station"

Method:

1. I recognised the white girder piece as being in the Saturn V set
2. Bricklink then shows all other sets with that piece
3. Of the eight sets that have that piece in white, the 7937 also has two blue chairs and some grey ladders.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Do these bagged GUDI pieces make up a single set?
I purchased what I thought was some second-hand LEGO today. There was a single plastic bag with the words "***Complete Set***" written on it in sharpie marker. There were 6 sealed polybags inside, all with pieces that look similar in colour (lotsa pinks, purples, browns and whites).

On closer inspection, some of the pieces bear the logo ***"GUDI"*** which I gather is a Chinese manufacturer specialising in '*Lego-style blocks*'. Most of the bags have a number on them (5538.01, 5538.02, etc) but I've not been able to research any GUDI sets that have that number.

Do these pieces comprise a single set (and if so, which one?) or is the bag author a no-good lying liar?

# Answer
So, I just *Googled* "*GUDI*" + "*catalogue*" and it brought me to the knockoff's parent company "*Guangdong Xinlexin Education and Culture Co.,Ltd*" or *Xinlexin.com*.

*Xinlexin's GUDI* product line has two subcategories that match the color scheme of these pieces.

1. *Princess Alice* line.
2. *Modern Girls* line.

Below are pictures from both lines that comprise of around 23 sets. If you'll notice, each set has many unique identifiable pieces that just don't appear in the current six poly bags above.

The only piece that comes close is that blue translucent piece in *BAG 06*, which sorta looks like the minidoll dress from *Elena's Studio*.

I don't think it's this dress, but regardless if it were, the poly bags are still short critical pieces to solidly decide on this set. In fact, we're short critical pieces to decide on any of the other 23 sets.

Another point: We don't know how far back *Xinlexin* website goes when listing their knockoffs. This could be a complete set before *GUDI* decided to list their wares digitally.

Conclusion: We could safely say that these 6 poly bags are not from any of *Xinlexin's* current line of 23 sets, but due to lack of documentation, we can't say that these pieces *do*, or *do not*, form a complete set.
> 2 votes

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Tags: set-identification, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: Is the LEGO Racers 1 game available for free now?
I would like to get the Lego Racers 1 video game. I am wondering if it's free now off the internet because it's 21 years old. if the game is not free why are so many people not being caught for illegally hosting a copyrighted video game?

# Answer
It's "abandon ware", however the game is still under copyright, so you cannot legally obtain a copy of it. However if the owner of the IP (LEGO) doesn't care enough to enforce the copyright, the chance you will be sued or fined is close to zero.

Something else you need to consider: There is no guarantee that the game you download from an abandon ware website is unmodified. It might contain malicious code, compromising the security of your system.
> 6 votes

# Answer
While it varies by country and jurisdiction, copyright of software tends to follow that of other literary works (i.e. within the E.U. this is "the life of the author plus seventy years").

The LEGO Group have historically been fairly active in enforcing their ownership of a number of "core" IP rights they have (elements, logos, sets, etc.), but they do not appear to be quite so concerned with 20 year old computer games based on their original IP (unlike the games based on other licenses - Harry Potter, Star Wars, Indiana Jones, etc.).

See also "Is Abandonware Legal?" in this article.

In the first instance, any Cease and Desist letters would be issued against those hosting the application, and if the music and video industry is anything to go by this would include torrent hosters, etc.
> 2 votes

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Tags: video-games
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# Question
Title: Identify the set these LEGO elements are from
I have a LEGO set without any instructions:

Which set could it be, how can it be assembled?

Thanks you

# Answer
> 4 votes
No set listed on bricklink or brickset contains 4 of the rounded 1x2 plates in yellow, at most 2, so this is either no set or it is not listed yet on those sites. Also it's a relatively small amount of bricks (48), too few to amount to a set.

https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=35480&in=S&colorID=3&ov=Y

# Answer
> 3 votes
Looking closely at the picture: Those bricks aren't LEGO at all, they are from some unidentified clone brand. I cannot see any logos on top of the studs (neither LEGO or any other).

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Tags: set-identification, clone-brands
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title: Identification help for green bases

text:
# Question
Title: Identification help for green bases
Recently received a batch of LEGO and it contains numerous green bases and attachments for them. I’ve never seen anything similar before. Does anyone know what they are?

# Answer
Those are Sports Field Sections 8 x 16

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=30489

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=41819c02

They appear in soccer sets

The sets are playable, you can move minifigs on springs to "shoot" the ball, or defend with the goal keeper minifig...
> 11 votes

# Answer
These belong to the Football subtheme, the parts are specificially Sports Field Section 8 x 16 with Horizontal Slot and Black Sliding Holder, Assembly and Sports Field Section 8 x 16.

The smaller black parts are called 4142816: Chair Ø20Mm, Spring Function and were used to have the minifigures kick the ball.
> 6 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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title: Ferris wheel bars

text:
# Question
Title: Ferris wheel bars
I am trying to build the High Roller ferris wheel at the Linq in Las Vegas. I want to sink a bar through two 2x2 domes. Can I do that with two of these parts? Is there a way to sink a single bar through 2 domes and 1 transparent 2x2 round brick?

2x2 dome top hollow stud

# Answer
> 2 votes
I'm afraid you cannot pass a bar through dome version you are interested in (actually any of the versions of this dome as they all are blocked one way or another) as seen in this picture from Rebrickable:

However, you may consider Brick, Round 2 x 2 Dome Bottom which does have an option to attach bar through it.

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Tags: design
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# Question
Title: Do the minifigure utensil cups stack like 1x1 bricks?
Do Minifigure Utensil Cups stack on top of eachother? bricklink

# Answer
No. The diameter on top of the cup is larger than stud, but also smaller than the outer diameter of anti-stud.
> 4 votes

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Tags: design
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# Question
Title: Current LEGO Digital Designer download is missing a lot of parts
The current LDD download is missing a lot of bricks that were in version 1.3.11 before.

Such as, but not limited to:
EV3 motors, sensors and the main EV3 brick.

Does anyone have a solution/download with all the 1.3.11 bricks?

# Answer
Unfortunately LDD has been actively deprecated for quite a number of years and LEGO officially noted they would not be updating the parts set and would, in fact, be removing some parts quite a few years ago.

The only solution is to use one of the alternatives such as any of the options that use the LDraw libraries. One of the more popular right now (for good reason IHO) is Stud.io, which as of the completion of the BrickLink acquisition will be owned by TLG.
> 5 votes

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms, software, ldd
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