# Question
Title: List of parts to buy for to "upgrade" existing Mindstorms NXT 1.0 to Mindstorms EV3 set?
Is there a list of parts available I need to buy to "upgrade" an existing Mindstorms NXT 1.0 (8527) set to a Mindstorms EV3 set?

# Answer
> 8 votes
I don't know of such a list, but you can find the inventory for the EV3 on Bricklink and other similar sites.

However, it would be more economical to buy an entire EV3 set. The 31313 retail set is about $350 (USD). To buy just the EV3 brick, motors and sensors individually would be more than that.

* EV3 Intelligent Brick - $190
* EV3 Large Motor - $25 x 2
* EV3 Medium Motor - $20
* EV3 Infrared Sensor - $30
* EV3 Infrared Beacon - $30
* EV3 Touch Sensor - $20
* EV3 Color Sensor - $40
* **Total: $380**

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It is also possible to use the EV3 programming software (the desktop version) to program the NXT brick (with some limitations, like no Bluetooth support). So, you could "upgrade" the software without having to obtain any new parts.

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms, nxt
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# Question
Title: Recreating Mindstorms TRACK3R test track
I didn't realize until now that the 31313 Mindstorms packaging secretly contains a hidden test track for the TRACK3R robot. And the packaging is long gone with the trash. D'oh!

What is the simplest way of recreating the track so that it gets fully functional? Any web site where a blueprint can be found? What are the dimensions?

I have access to a color printer, color crayons etc.

# Answer
> 3 votes
For 15 bucks you can just buy the empty box on BrickLink. Here is where you can get it. I think it would be a better use of your time to fork over the 15 USD (plus a few dollars shipping) than to try and recreate the test track. Here is why:

a. the test track is made of a durable cardboard which can withstand an ev3 unit driving over it. Normal paper will likely tear, especially since the test track is shiny and smoother than normal paper. It would be difficult for rubber tires or treads to turn on standard paper.

b. You would have to find the correct size of paper, or worse, connect smaller papers to recreate the track. Of course, it wouldn't have to be perfect, but it does add an extra step.

c. You would have to spend the time coloring. It doesn't sound that bad, but you would need to be very consistent with coloring sections so that the 'color' sensor doesn't have any problems reading the test track.

In short, I think it would be much easier for you to just buy the box rather than try to recreate it.

HOWEVER

If you do want to try to recreate it, BrickLink lists the box as having the dimensions 48 x 37.8 x 7.1 cm. Since the box folds out, the surface area of the box will be the dimensions of the test track. (48 + 2(7.1)) x (37.8 + 2(7.1))= 62.2 cm x 52 cm. The rest would just be a matter of coloring it based on the images.

I hope that helps you out :)

# Answer
> 5 votes
Luckily I still kept the original packaging so I managed to open up the sleeve and take a picture.

The best photo I managed to take had some inconsistent lighting due to the flash and room lighting and the perspective wasn't the best so I decided it would be best to re-draw the board in Adobe Illustrator.

I deliberately didn't include some of the design elements that I didn't think were necessary. The original size was approximately 48 x 90 cm, these are the measurements I used for the Illustration.

You can print the above raster image or **download the .SVG file**. If you have access to a vector editor (Inkscape, for example, is free) you can re-adjust any of the elements however you like to better suite your needs.

If you don't have access to a large scale printer, I highly recommend you use the web service Rasterbator which converts large images into smaller pages that can be printed using smaller paper sizes such as A4.

Rasterbator has several additional features, allowing you to adjust the margins to allow you to overlap pages, giving you a neat finish. Finally, glue the pages onto a piece of cardboard or craft card to add rigidity.

# Answer
> 2 votes
It turns out a workaround for the problem was to contact LEGO customer support and explain the situation. They swiftly sent me an empty 31313 box, delivered to my doorstep by courier.

You really can't ask for better customer support than that!

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Tags: mindstorms
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# Question
Title: How to cross reference multiple parts in sets?
I use BrickSet.com to easily find all sets containing a specific part e.g. http://brickset.com/sets/containing-part-374726. Is there a way on that site or any other to find all the sets containing two specific parts?

# Answer
Although clunky you could consider using Microsoft Excel to do most of the work for you.

1. On Brickset search for the first part
2. On the top bar click CSV or (comma separated values)
3. Copy the text
4. Open Excel (I'm using 2010)
5. Select Cell A1
6. In the top right corner click the arrow bellow paste and select "Import Text Wizard..." (depending on the version this option may be in another place)
7. Selected Delimited and click next
8. On the following page select "Comma" click next
9. Select each row that is not "SetID" and select "Do Not Import" click finish (alternatively you can manually delete the extra rows after finish)
10. Repeat steps for the second part you are looking for. However Select Cell B1 instead of A1. You'll end up with two rows of SetIDs
11. Finally highlight both columns of SetIDs and select "Conditional Formatting", \>"Highlight Cell Rules"\> "Duplicate Values"

The cells that are highlighted will be the sets that contain both parts.
> 3 votes

# Answer
From what I can tell, there is no way to cross-reference within the site itself, but it wouldn't be difficult to write a short code to do the cross-checking for you.

I'm not a programmer or web-developer, so I lack any basic coding skills, but for someone who is more able, this would be a very simple task. After you open the page that gives the list of sets containing said part (one page for each of the parts you're looking for) you can easily find all sets sharing two parts by having your browser run a Jscript that does the following:

1. Generates a list of all set numbers that contain said part (one list per page)
2. Generates a list of all set numbers that are shared in all previous lists

Let me know if that is confusing...
> 2 votes

# Answer
http://rebrickable.com has an advanced search option that allows you to search for parts within specific sets, that might be able to help you.

It also has an API that returns the sets containing a specific part: http://rebrickable.com/api/docs?fn=get\_part\_sets \- although this does require the inclusion of a colour as well. From that you could write a simple comparison between the two results. However this probably won't scale all that well if you then want to find the number of sets containing 10 specific elements.
> 0 votes

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Tags: set-identification, set-database
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# Question
Title: Can anyone identify this blue partial vehicle build?
I know this is a long shot, but does anyone recognise this set? The pieces in the photos are all common so not much help;

Black plates 2 x 6 (2 of), 2 x 4 2 x 8. 1 X 1 round (2 of).

Blue plates 1 X 2 (2 off), 2 X 4 2 X 2 1 X 4 (2 off)

And a steering wheel and seat.

I believe the set is after the year 2000 but can't be certain. All guidance is greatly appreciated!

# Answer
From a glance it doesn't look like a set as much as something someone might have randomly put together. The two blue 1x2 tiles at the front seem odd, as do the double-stacked black round tiles.

Of all the pieces used it seems the rarest would be the blue steering wheel or the blue seat. It turns out the blue seat piece is used in 'only' 67 different sets.

From that list of sets, only one set seems to resemble this configuration, the **1572 Super Tow Truck** from the Town theme, released in 1986. Step 3 of the instructions (as shown below) seems to be quite a close match.
> 10 votes

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Tags: set-identification, vehicle
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title: Help identifying space-themed sets

text:
# Question
Title: Help identifying space-themed sets
I have acquired a 20 pound bag of space-themed Lego pieces that seem to belong to some special Technic set(s). Many pieces and assemblies seem way too unusual to be  acquired from a random bulk purchase by the prior owner - the pieces are themed and uncommon. I am attaching some photos for your reference. I would love to hear if any of you can identify which set(s) these may belong to, unless the prior owner totally made these up. Thank you for your help! I have spent about 20 years of my life around LEGO bricks and have never seen any pieces like these. I am stumped!

**P.S.** I've realized that I have a Death Star in the bag and a Captain Rex's AT-TE, but still can't figure out what the white and the yellow ones are.

# Answer
Couple of observations:

* Neither of these pictures shows complete sets
* The parts you show in each picture most likely do not all come from the same set

From what I can see, you have the following parts of sets in the pictures, clockwise from top left:

1. Parts of a Y-wing (likely 9495 Gold Leader's Y-wing Starfighter ) plus parts of 7166 Imperial Shuttle

2. Parts of a Naboo Starfighter (likely 7660 Naboo N-1 Starfighter and Vulture Droid) plus parts of another set (the large grey wedge with the green stickers is not from 7660).

3. Parts of 10188 Deathstar mixed with parts of a 8039 Venator-Class Republic Attack Cruiser

4. More parts from the Venator Class Attack Cruiser (the engines on the left), plus a 7675 AT-TE.
> 4 votes

# Answer
Top Left

7659-1 - Imperial Landing Craft

Top right seems to be two sets

7930-1 - Bounty Hunter Assault Gunship

and

7877-1 - Naboo Starfighter
> 1 votes

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Tags: technic, set-identification, space
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# Question
Title: Which sets can be built in the bag (all the parts are in one bag)?
I've had the chance to participate in some "build in the bag" contests at some events. The idea is simple: each contestant gets a small set (usually provided by LEGO for the occasion), and everybody tries to build the set at the same time.

The trick is, the contestants may not open the bag but should build the model inside it. The first to finish wins some additional prize. You can also up the ante, PLUG did for example do this underwater.

However, this does require that all parts of the set are in exactly one transparent polybag. Small racers sets (the one in plastic boxex with a round top) are usually suitable, but we've had a club event where we wanted to do that and there was no polybag (the first to open his box spilled the contents on the ground), so we had to find some other contest (I think we ended up with one-handed build or build without plan).

So my question is, which sets are known to have all parts in one polybag? Is there any way to find out?

# Answer
The ones I know of:

In addition, some LEGO Creator sets, with only partly transparent bags are possible to build in bag, like this video shows - but it gets *a lot* harder.

Rather then listing all of the sets, I'd go by the general rule that sets that are 9.5cm x 9.5cm x 4.5cm or smaller are in one bag (or just in the box). The Court Jester (7953) for example, is one exception in that the Jester hat is packaged separately.
> 13 votes

# Answer
Brickset has a feature to allow you to search sets by tags, which is incredibley useful as you can find a full list of Polybag sets.

The list can be sorted in various ways. You can sort by year (descending) to find the newest sets that might still be available to buy, or which polybags have the most pieces and will probably be the most challenging.

Some of these are simply bulk bags of bricks which you can ignore.

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The three largest polybag sets are limited edition from the Master Builder Academy series. These polybags were originally only available in the US as part of the LEGO Master Builder Academy subscription.

The largest polybag set is the #40178 Exclusive VIP Set released in 2017 with 205 pieces and two minifigures.
> 6 votes

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Tags: sets, packaging, bag-build
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# Question
Title: Where can I download the LEGO Mindstorms NXT 2.0 IDE?
I want to see how well that IDE runs on my old Windows XP laptop.

I looked on www.lego.com, but it seems to all be documentation (downloads).

# Answer
LEGO has made it possible to download a stand-alone installer for NXT-G 2.0. It's compatible with both Mac and Windows.

Alternatively, you can download a disc image of the NXT-G 2.0 CD. The link contains instructions on how to use it (as it isn't as easy as downloading just an installer).
> 19 votes

# Answer
The Mindstorms NXT GUI, NXT-G, is distributed on a CD and is not available without the Mindstorms NXT kit. It's not explicitly stated, but you can think of the license included in the price (although what the actual licensing terms are I don't know). In any case LEGO does not offer it for download. (Edit: I was so wrong \- I'll just leave the rest of this answer for the BrickLink reference).

If you want the actual CD, your best bet to acquire one is to get one from someone who doesn't need it. For example, someone who happened to buy two kits. There are some available on BrickLink as well.

You could also try to contact the LEGO customer service and see if you can get it straight from them (mention the item ID 4558460, it should help them find it) as well, but I suppose they'll just point you to the download.
> 1 votes

# Answer
Try this:

NXT-G 1.1 -\> http://www.mediafire.com/download/ve0p528do3ap2qd/LEGO\_MINDSTORMS\_NXT\_v1.1.iso

NXT-G 2.0 -\> http://www.mediafire.com/download/00byev4ayhh2ius/LEGO\_MINDSTORMS\_NXT\_v2.0.iso
> 1 votes

# Answer
As of January 2017, the links in the older answers to this question all seem to be broken. However, there is still a download available for NXT 2.0 on the LEGO customer service website. This link seems to have withstood many years of changes to the LEGO website: http://service.lego.com/en-us/HelpTopics/default.aspx?questionID=2655.

Look for "How can I get a replacement for the LEGO® MINDSTORMS® NXT software for set 8547?" on that page.

There is also currently a page on the official Mindstorms site for the NXT software download. I'm not sure how long the link will last, but here it is: https://www.lego.com/en-us/mindstorms/downloads/nxt-software-download.
> 1 votes

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Tags: nxt, software
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title: Are these parts really LEGO?

text:
# Question
Title: Are these parts really LEGO?
Hello, can anyone tell me if these yellow and red items are real LEGO parts? I have a sneaky feeling that they have made it into the LEGO pile via somebody 'selling LEGO bulk' but I don't want to throw them out if I'm wrong.

# Answer
> 13 votes
Those look like the Playmobil clip-on necklace pieces. Playmobil doesn't have the same level of part listing that LEGO does, but I was able to find this picture of the yellow one being worn.

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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title: Are those bowls genuine LEGO pieces?

text:
# Question
Title: Are those bowls genuine LEGO pieces?
I've been sieving through my video collection and came across a video from 2011. It's part of a series of Ninjago videos giving you tips on fun things you could do with the Spinners. At the end of the video, there's this frame where Cole goes to a laid out dinner table to eat with the other Ninjas:

I find this scene rather adorable, but find it slightly puzzling; for starters, how are those tiles connected to each other? But that's not really my question; you don't really need to answer that. My real question is, are those 6 bowls real LEGO pieces? They look rather peculiar and Un-LEGO-y. I get how they made the cups and bottles; they just flipped some 1x1 round bricks and a chalice. But how about those bowls? If it is a real piece, could someone direct me to a set containing it, and if not, what they might be?

# Answer
> 11 votes
My guess is that they're LEGO Round Plate 1 x 1 Straight Side (Part ID: 4569058 Design ID: 6141) with paint applied to make them look like food. Details of some of the sets that contain them are available on BrickLink.

# Answer
> 11 votes
I also think those parts are painted, but I would like to add one more thing. The LEGO Friends sets have these cute cupcake holders that are quite similar, and no painting is required. They come in four colors, and you can easily insert a 1x1 round tile inside to add the "food". Here is the link: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=93082g

And here is a picture so you get an idea how they look like (on your left, right on top of the display cooler):

# Answer
> 0 votes
Nope, they are most likely studs. The cupcake holders have only been made in yellow, though that picture could be explained as custom paintwork. However, please notice how the ''sushi rolls'' in the picture have no ridges, whereas the cupcake holders from the Friends bakery set do.

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Why do some minifigs have grey hands and some yellow?
I have a lot of LEGO Sets and have noticed that some of them have yellow hands and some have a dark grey colour hands. Is this because some are of old design and some are of new design? Most old ones have yellow hands, though?

This minifig has yellow hands:

And this one has grey:

# Answer
Hand colors other than yellow are generally used to either match skin tone in licensed themes, or to represent some sort of gloves. The police officer you mentioned is probably "wearing" some sort of motorcycle or driving glove:

When minifigs were first introduced in the late 70s, the only ones to have non-yellow hands were the space minifigs:
> 16 votes

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Tags: minifigures, colour
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# Question
Title: Will The Scooby-Doo Mystery Machine come back in stock at retailers?
I see this set, 75902 the Mystery Machine, from 3rd party sellers on Amazon for $10 or more above retail, but it's out of stock at most retailers I have looked at. I'd like to know if there is a way to tell if it will come back in stock. If it won't, I'll buy it at the slightly inflated price before it goes up any further.

And in general does anyone have info about the timeline of current sets? For example how long they continue to make them? When they go out of stock at most places, does that usually signal "the end"? Is there a way to know if a newer version of the Mystery Machine (or of any set) will come out soon?

# Answer
Regarding the set 75902 Scooby Doo Mystery Machine \- it is a retired set according to the UK LEGO Shop at Home site:

The US LEGO Shop at Home site has not yet applied the "Retired Product" label, but shows this set as Sold Out:

As a general rule, it is best to check both US and EU Shop at Home sites (one of the many EU sites is enough) as set retirement information is maintained separately for both markets. Alternatively you can look at the Brickset page for a given set, it shows availability information for all markets (though it doesn't give a definite "Retired" status).

LEGO set retirements are rather unpredictable. On average, sets are available for around 2 years - but it greatly varies. Some sets have retired after 6 months on the market (76039 Ant-Man Final Battle is a recent example). Some sets stay available for more than 5 years (10220 Volkswagen T1 Camper Van is an example of this, and so was 10188 Death Star).

As you mention - getting Out of Stock at retailers (including LEGO Shop at Home) is often a sign of a set retiring, but it could also mean a temporary shortage of product. Finally, there are sets that are produced seasonally and those will go to Sold Out for longer periods of time at LEGO Shop at Home, only to return closer to the season - for example 10254 Winter Holiday Train.

Back to Scooby Doo - I do not think that LEGO has the Scooby Doo license anymore (though they could always opt to renew it at some point) and as such, most AFOLs consider this line to be done. As The LEGO Group is a private company, outsiders can typically only guess the plans - TLG could always surprise us.

And maybe some hope: Since the Mystery Machine set has not been retired for long, at least in the US, you might still be able to find one in places like Toys 'r Us or KMart, where they typically do not get rid of their stock very fast.

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**UPDATE: Not even 3 hours after posting this, the set has now gone to Retired Product status on the US Shop At Home site as well:**
> 2 votes

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Tags: shopping, manufacturing
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title: How do you print on LEGO clone helmets?

text:
# Question
Title: How do you print on LEGO clone helmets?
I was wondering if it is possible to use water slide decals to print on a LEGO clone helmet if so, how?

# Answer
> 3 votes
This question is a bit confusing. It mentions water slide decals, but then also asks about printing directly on the helmet.

Water slide decals are what their name implies; decals that can be slid on the item with the aid of water. It's not printing. They are basically very thin stickers.

Because water slide decals are so thin, they can easily mold onto non-flat surfaces. If they are larger, and the surface is very round or complex, you can score the decal with a hobby knife before applying it to eliminate any wrinkles.

But in general, yes, water slide decals can be used on LEGO pieces. The decals should come with instructions on how to apply them. You basically make them a little bit wet, and slide them onto the item from the special paper they are sitting on, then remove the protecting film from the top.

If the piece is going to be handled a lot, you should cover the decal with a clearcoat to protect it. Water slide decal supplies like clearcoat and application tools should be available at any hobby store.

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Tags: minifigures, customization
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# Question
Title: EV3 Motors not moving even though EV3 has batteries
I am new to using the EV3. I have only had it for 3 weeks.

My question is why are my EV3 motors not moving?

I know the motors are new and they are in such a good condition they could be sent back to the factory and resold, but the motors just won't move.

# Answer
One thing you can do to check on the basic level is to plug the motors into the EV3 brick and try to manually get them to rotate with the on board controls. If you can get them working that way then you know for sure it is not the motors or EV3 control as the problem and likely issues with your program. If they don't move manually try to switch up the ports and the cables to to see if any combination works or does not. Also the more obvious piece of advice is to make sure your are plugging motors into the motor ports and not the sensor ports.
> 2 votes

# Answer
I had this happen today in my classroom.

The student did not download the program to the brick. After you write the program, you must download the program to your brick.
> 1 votes

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Tags: ev3, motor
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# Question
Title: Does anyone here know how to apply for MFi product plan id to LEGO?
Does anyone here have an idea as to how to apply to LEGO to get MFi product plan id? Or how do I get to their MFi product plan form?

# Answer
> 2 votes
MFi (Made For iPod/iPhone/iPad) is a program from Apple, not LEGO. You can apply on Apple's website: https://developer.apple.com/programs/mfi/.

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Tags: ev3
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title: Which head piece would be the cheapest?

text:
# Question
Title: Which head piece would be the cheapest?
I would like to fill a vase with LEGO heads to decorate my living room so I am looking for the best option to buy bulk heads.

I have been looking at Bricklink but I can't find a good way to tell. I want 200 (not sure about the number for the moment) yellow heads, don't mind what the face painted looks like but I want to find the cheapest option.

Has anybody got any clue on the best way to do that?

# Answer
> 2 votes
One way to do this on Bricklink is to run an advanced search over the "Minifig, Head" category. Here's an example showing all yellow parts in this category with a minimum lot size of 200 sorted by price, lowest first.

This shows you the cheapest stores to order 200 of the same yellow head from. If you want a little variety, I'm sure those sellers have other heads available as well.

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Tags: minifigures, shopping
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title: What set do these stickers belong to?

text:
# Question
Title: What set do these stickers belong to?
I have searched for these stickers in several places but I can't seem to find what sets they go to.

# Answer
> 5 votes
For the top item, I have found this to come from set 6338 Hurricane Harbor. Here is a photo of the sticker sheet that came with this set:

As for the bottom, please see comment to the question.

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Tags: set-identification, sticker-identification
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title: The LEGO Logo Font

text:
# Question
Title: The LEGO Logo Font
I am looking for a font that matches as close as can be to the LEGO logo font in the picture bellow: It does not need to be outlined in yellow or in black, I can do that with my software. Also, it doesn't need to be italic as I can do that with the software too!

# Answer
It would seem to me that the original design of this logo, as it was first conceived in 1949 would have been drawn by hand, without the use of modern graphics tools. So I'm not sure there is a font you could import into your Word programs and the like, but options are still available. Consider trying out this font generator that can simulate all-caps text into what they call "Legothick."

https://www.urbanfonts.com/fonts/Legothick.htm

Hope this helps.
> 5 votes

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Tags: lego-group
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# Question
Title: Where did Octan come from? Why was it chosen?
I have many sets that include the Octan logo:

Over time Octan has been the name of LEGO Cities, Oil Companies, and Big Businesses. It was chosen as a successor to Esso and Shell. It became big during the LEGO Movie too.

Why was the name Octan chosen, and what does it mean or refer to?

# Answer
Octan, is simply Octane in Danish, which is a chemical in and associated with gasoline making it a sensible name for a fictional petroleum/energy company.

The LEGO Group (under pressure by a Greenpeace campaign) stopped the previous corporate partnerships, which had featured real world oil companies logos in LEGO sets, to distance themselves from the environmental protests associated with those companies.

All this can be found here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octan
> 17 votes

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Tags: lego-group, city
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title: The Coffee Chain

text:
# Question
Title: The Coffee Chain
I have been looking all over the internet, since I first came upon the Larry the Barrista minifigure(got into mini figs kind of late), for the coffee chain logo. I love the takehome cup that comes with Larry but I want to make a coffee shop with the coffee chain logo. So far, only one set has a sticker which is 60097 but I would like to know if it is likely that LEGO will be making more things using the Coffee Chain Logo?

# Answer
To the best of my knowledge, this coffee chain logo was made for The LEGO Movie, and then spread to this one set. Noting LEGO's tendencies to use and re-use symbols across themelines (i.e., Octan paraphernalia, Classic Space logo, etc,) I could see some potential for them to include the sticker in a future set. Another real possibility is the long-awaited release of a City Coffee Shop.

If you are looking for ways to make such a custom shop yourself, you might consider making your own stickers using these techniques?
> 8 votes

# Answer
Here is somebody that is selling sticker sheets for $11.99 that look like:

and you get instructions for building a modular building too.
> 5 votes

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Tags: moc, the-lego-movie
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title: LEGO stormtrooper pauldron dimensions

text:
# Question
Title: LEGO stormtrooper pauldron dimensions
Does anyone know what the size dimensions for Imperial and First Order pauldrons are? I want to make some custom ones.

# Answer
> 1 votes
Based on this information from Brick Owl, the Imperial pauldron would fit in a rectangle of dimensions 2.7 x 2.3 centimeters. The center hole on all capes must be able to clear the neck diameter of approximately 4.88 mm as was quoted here backed up by my own measurements.

If you are looking to make a pauldron for yourself, you might consider finding a trace of the desired pauldron and adjusting the scale until the image is 2.7 cm at the widest. Making a 5 mm hole will suffice so the piece does not fall too low on the shoulders. Hope this helps.

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Tags: piece-information, star-wars, customization, size
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# Question
Title: How to connect chain links in LDD to make tank tracks
I need help trying to connect chain links (in LDD) around a set of idlers and drive wheels. This is to be used on a tank design, and therefore is not using actual chain. It is using "Chain Link m=1" connectors, as well as there being 2 drive wheels to mount on. I have tried many different ways, but none of them worked.

Here's a picture of the tank and its threads

# Answer
> 3 votes
This issue is one of LDD's most prominent shortcomings. Unlike other CAD software, the simplifications that LDD makes in exchange for ease-of-use restrict some creations from being assembled with any degree of ease. However, the treads in this model are possible to apply, although I cannot say how easy it would be to get them the way you would want.

A quick search from more experienced LDDers on YouTube turns up that the process is very redundant and tedious. Each link must be adjusted individually, and when needed, certain gears must be turned to accept the chain. However, getting the initial link on the system requires a crafty Technic device used to mount a five-hole tread to a bar suspended just above the gear in question. From this five-hole link, the smaller links can be added, as shown in this video.

I tried the process myself and while it is painfully difficult, the end result is achievable. Here is a photo with the Technic system in place, and another after I removed it and added the correct link.

Of course, I had to try this in real life where dexterity is on my side. I ran up the exact construction as I see it in your provided picture and have determined that the perimeter of this design falls just over an even multiple of links. Twenty-five links are just barely too short to connect at the ends, and twenty six is much too baggy to stay seated on the gear teeth.

For another example of adding treads in LDD, you may also want to see this time-lapse video. Hope this helps and happy building.

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Tags: building, ldd, tracks
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title: Bag Identification

text:
# Question
Title: Bag Identification
I have a random bag #3 from an unknown set. Bag has normal 135149 number and 2011 on it. The pieces are all light gray, dark gray, black and green!?! any ideas on what set it might be?

# Answer
> 12 votes
This bag is from 76003-1: Superman: Battle of Smallville, based on

and Technic 3M Beam in yellow + Plate 2X3 in Brick Yellow are also in this set

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: What technic vehicles are built to scale for 75114 First Order Stormtrooper?
From what I have, 42036 Street Motorcycle is a bit too big but still looks rideable. What other technic sets can be used together with 75114? Can you put it inside 42056 Porsche 911 GTR?

# Answer
Obviously The Lego Group has not released any sets specifically designed for the constraction figures, but some sets would still be reasonably sized. I've never asked a storm trooper, but let's assume he is 6 feet tall, or 72 inches. According to Brickset's information, 75114 is "over 9 inches tall" That makes the scale for the figure about 1:8.

Now bringing in the Lego Porsche 911 GTR, we find from its description that it is "22 inches long" The actual car's specs put its total length at 178.94 inches, which I have rounded to 179. So the car's scale is 1:8.14, which would mean that it is "to scale."

Now I don't have either set, so perhaps another user can provide photos of whether this figure actually fits in the car. I suspect it would not, which doesn't upset the reality of this situation. I'm not sure that John Boyega would fit in a $175,000 car in full storm trooper attire.

If the scale still bothers you, we might work with this actor's height at 5' 9" or 69 inches. That makes the scale for 75114 1:7.7 This would definitely make the scale believable enough if all you wanted a photo of the figure leaning up on the technic model.

Additional info: 42021 and 42022 are not to scale; 42029 is close; 8070 is also worth looking into....

That gets you back to 2011. I may have missed some so please comment below if you see any I missed!
> 4 votes

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Tags: technic, vehicle
---


title: Brick labels to be printed

text:
# Question
Title: Brick labels to be printed
I am new to the LEGO "business". But I am building up my inventory, getting close to 100.000 pieces now, and before shooting off, I want to have my "system" organized. That also includes print off labels for every small part, to glue on the separate box/draw for item. This makes it easier, and more safe for proper work by several people, assuring that the right part is picked.

But, where do I find info about this? My wish is to print a few, important key words about the part - part.no., picture...

Any suggestions?

# Answer
Tom Alphin has a template of labels you can download and print with the appropriate label printer.

Sample:
> 7 votes

# Answer
You can try to use www.bricklabels.com

It allows you to select which parts you want to print and allows you to print the labels in your custom size, fitting the drawers perfectly.

Full disclosure: I made the app :-/, but it's free and open-source: https://github.com/Gottwik/legolabels
> 5 votes

# Answer
I would start with looking at the way Bricklink has their catalog organized, or look at LDraw's catalog. They have a fairly basic system segmenting LEGO into bricks, plates, tiles, beams, rods, minifigs etc. Should get you going.

EDIT: And if you really want to ID each part, just use the Bricklink part numbers (same as LDraw's numbers) to print on the bins. The Catalog feature should help you getting those, once you are familiar with the Bricklink naming schedule.
> 1 votes

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Tags: piece-information, storage, inventory
---


title: LEGO Shell Ferrari 2012 Sets

text:
# Question
Title: LEGO Shell Ferrari 2012 Sets
I am looking for information on the 2012 Shell V-Power Ferrari LEGO promotional sets. The sets include a Ferrari truck and a Shell Crew, and some more which I can't remember. Searching in Google brings up very little results. I can't find anything on the LEGO website or the Shell website. The on that I have was bought in Africa, so I don't know if they are avalible in Canada/US too.

What I am looking for is more information on these sets and where I can possibly get them. All I need is website links.

**Picture of Sets:**

# Answer
Brickset is probably the site you need. Here is a list of the sets you're looking for.

At the moment, it seems the only places you can purchase these are at Chowren Toys or on Bricklink. Brickset has compiled all the available vendors on their "buy tab" when you click on a particular set.

If you haven't ever used Bricklink before, don't fret; it's a pretty straight-forward site. So all you'll need to do is take the link, click on the set you are interested in, click on the buy tab, and that will take you there.
> 2 votes

# Answer
The set numbers are 30190 through 30196, use that to look them up on bricklink/brickset note that 30196 is not shown on your picture, it had some kind of special status in that promotion (I don't remember the details).
> 2 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Why don't inverted brackets (99780) work in this SNOT 180 configuration?
I've been working on a MOC and tried using the following configuration of inverted brackets to achieve studs out SNOT 180 in a tight space:

As you can see from the photo, this doesn't quite work. I can force the parts to lie flat, but it feels like this is putting a lot of stress on these elements.

What is causing this to not work, and why weren't these parts designed to work this way?

# Answer
The short answer is because the combined height of the two mini inverted brackets is greater than the interior space of a tile (or brick for that matter.) But you knew this already.

I realize it isn't considered standard by the rest of the world, but because the only quality calipers I had access to tonight are customary, all these values will be in inches.

An average of several measurements gives me the following values for the dimensions of several key parts:

1. average height of a 1x2 - 2x2 bracket............... 0.7221
2. average height of a 1x2 - 2x2 inverted bracket...... 0.7278
3. average height of a 1x2 - 1x2 bracket............... 0.4079
4. average height of a 1x2 - 1x2 inverted bracket...... 0.4131
5. average exterior width of a 2x2 tile................ 0.7239
6. average interior width of a 2x2 tile................ 0.6028

Now, we all know that item 1 and 2 will fit flush onto a brick evenly if a plate is added to the other side.

We also know that in practice, if you put 3 on a brick and 4 directly under that same position, the SNOT faces will adjoin where plates may be legally connected.

But here's the catch: adding the heights of 3 and 4 does not get 1. That sum does not even get 2.

**It has to do with where the gap is**. On items 1 and 2, the gap is *under* and *above* the SNOT part of these elements respectively. But the combination of 3 and 4 leaves the gap ***between*** those two plates. You can see this easily by attaching 4 to a brick and then laying a plate behind. You can see that the corner is square and there is no clearance like we see from hanging 1 off the side of a brick-and-plate.

This clearance, by my measurements, is 0.07 inches. This is the height of 4 that is placed at the corner (that leaves a gap between it and 3) This corner is what makes this technique fail. This corner also explains the reason that 3 and 4 are different heights although they suit similar purposes.

Finally, this explains why you can affix two 3 elements to the underside of a tile. Twice the sum of the height of the 3 is still less than the interior measure of the tile once horizontal tolerance is accounted for.

As a closing solution, I recommend using two 3s attached to a tile as that works in reality. But just to prove how complicated this measurement really is, LDD still thinks that your original problem is a legal connection.  Hope this helps.
> 15 votes

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Tags: building, snot
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title: Piece identification (Sphere)

text:
# Question
Title: Piece identification (Sphere)
I was wondering if this LEGO piece is a valid LEGO, and what is its part number? Can it be used in *FIRST* LEGO League competitions?

# Answer
It looks like there are three individual pieces.

1. A small metal ball (Probably not LEGO)
2. A translucent connector (Probably not LEGO)
3. A red LEGO Technic Cross Axle (6538)

The red piece seems to share the same amount of ridges ridges (three) and seems to be a good match in size and colour. I'm not familiar with this connector being used in this manner, I'm fairly sure the other two pieces are not LEGO.
> 7 votes

---
Tags: technic, part-identification, fll
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# Question
Title: Mindstorms EV3: Patrolling a number of rooms - what are my options?
I want my Mindstorms EV3 bot to patrol a number of rooms autonomously on the same track.

What are my options?

* line following, which requires a line and is relatively slow
* setting a default program of moves, resulting in a collision sooner or later (missing accuracy)

Am I am missing something that is more accurate and faster?

# Answer
For moving on defined path you can achieve amazing accuracy with LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 odometry combined with good gyroscope but this still will result in a collision sooner or later.

Examples of such systems can be found here and here

Both of these systems use MICROINFINITY CruizCore XG1300L gyro/accelerometer but there are other good gyroscopes.

The only way to limit the growth of positioning error (and eventual collision) are absolute positioning methods such as beacons, artificial/natural landmarks recognition or model matching.

The state of the art in robotics is SLAM which could be implented on top of system with LIDAR, odometry and possibly gyroscope, preferably with ready-made ROS SLAM algorithms and computation on PC (EV3 is too slow). Making such system work is quite involved and may take months of work.

I'm not sure if this would be any faster than following a line though.

You can also consider following the wall, with Maze Solving Algorithms to move around the rooms.
> 2 votes

# Answer
### 1. EV3 IR Sensor with multiple EV3 IR Beacons

You could place beacons on different channels and move in a sequance towards them using heading/distance information. This will be limited by distance to sense the beacon and sometimes you have to search for beacon by rotating (you don't sense the beacon direction correctly if IR sensor is pointed in opposite direction).

I have tried following only single beacon - a robot on auto-pilot following other robot with beacon, or hand-held beacon. It worked ok but with limited distance.

You could also use your "setting a default program of moves" with beacons to locate after each longer path segment to keep positioning error bounded (so that you don't have colission eventually).

### 2. Default program of moves with line following after path segment.

You could split your patrol path into segments of fast straight moves that reach perpendicular color coded paths. Those color coded paths are only used to locate the robot and set it into motion on next fast moving segment. This is opinion based, I have not tried it. This could be the fastest option.

### 3. Tha Localization part of SLAM

Implementing working SLAM all by yourself is somewhere around master thesis in computer science. Maybe simplier with particle filters. Maybe harder depending on SLAM flavour you choose. It requires knowledge in statistics and profficiency in computer science.

It's easier to only make the localization part on prebuilt map but this still needs a good sensor (like LIDAR) combined with odometry and delgating computations to PC (so some network communication). Even in this setting it is big and demanding project.

---

Line Following and Wall Following that you and David mentioned are reasonable working methods.
> 0 votes

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Tags: ev3, robotic, pathfinding
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title: LEGO Mindstorms Motor Power

text:
# Question
Title: LEGO Mindstorms Motor Power
I am working on a project with a LEGO Mindstorms (RCX) motor. For this project, all I need is to spin a motor (43362, http://www.philohome.com/motors/motor.htm).

I was wondering how the LEGO Mindstorms brick deals with motors. Does the brick output a constant power to the motors, resulting in different speeds for different loads? Or does the brick adjust power to meet a constant speed? Thank you!

# Answer
The RCX system provides a certain average voltage level (via PWM) to the motors. This means that speed can vary based on load, and may even vary slightly from motor to motor. Power will also vary based on load, as a motor with more load will draw more current if voltage is held constant.

If you're interested in specifics, you can measure the voltage and current on the motor lines with a voltmeter, or view it on an oscilloscope if you have one available. From there, you can calculate the power (P=IV) for your setup.

The RCX system does have a rotation sensor if you need to be able to make specific speed and/or distance adjustments. In later systems, additional data lines were added to the communication protocol to allow motors to have embedded rotation sensors and allow precise speed control, but this is not possible with the RCX system.
> 4 votes

# Answer
The motor speed is controlled by time modulating the available voltage (approximately 9 volts). So at 100% it looks like a continuous 9 volts. At 50% it is periods of 9 volts and 0 volts in equal amounts. Something like 100 time blocks per second.
> 1 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, motor, robotic
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title: Wiring diagram of this blue 12V switch?

text:
# Question
Title: Wiring diagram of this blue 12V switch?
I'm looking for a wiring diagram or some information about the internal connections of this switch from the blue train era.

It is used for controlling the automatic points, and is visible on the original box:

The points connect to the back of the switch using a 3-pole connector:

I want to use a microcontroller to operate the points without manually pushing buttons. Since I don't have any of these, I cannot measure the connections (using a multimeter).

Does anyone own this switch, and cares to share some information?

---

This is how I think the switch works. I have tried wiring it this way and it works, however the points barely move. Perhaps the problem lies with the solenoids inside the points?

# Answer
> 2 votes
In electrical engineering one might call it: DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) Momentary (On)-Off-(On) Reversing Polarity Toggle Switch.

Momentary in this configuration means that it's spring loaded towards its centre position.

Edit: I'm not sure though, see the comment below. I have the remotely controlled switch points from the gray era and they work like above.

---
Tags: piece-information, trains
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# Question
Title: Need help identifying LEGO sets from bags and more
If its possible to please help me identify these, I would great appreciate it. I know some are from Star Wars, but I have no idea what the one with the green torso is from (that bag also has a grey spiked helmet in it if that helps).

There is also a LOT more that I got from thrift stores in plastic tubs and if I can get some help with these bags (and if you guys are up for it) I'd love help deciphering *them* as well.

# Answer
> 5 votes
Based on Reddish Brown Torso Space Police 3 Spiked Armor Pattern / Sand Green Arms / Sand Green Hands you're dealing with set 5979 Max Security transport.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Why are LEGO minifigures getting more and more expensive?
I am a big fan of LEGO and collecting for 30 years now. But while the "normal" sets seem to hold their price, LEGO minifigures are getting more and more expensive.

I can remember, when in Germany one of them was at 2.49 Euro, then they went up to 2.99 and the latest series (with the highest amount of 20 figures) now cost 3.99 Euro. The whole series is now roughly 80 Euro for a hand full of LEGO (if you don't have doubles)...

Have I missed some price rallies on the plastic markets or do they sell that good and LEGO wants to optimise profit as long as they have customers willing to pay (almost) any price? The amount of plastic and the custom parts are comparable to previous collections.

# Answer
I live in the U.S. so I cannot comment on the German Lego market. That being said, the answer to your question must lie at least in part to the European market for CMFs and not in the inherent price of each mystery bag.

What I mean is the price of a CMF in the U.S. has remained at a steady $3.00 since Series 3. While distributions within boxed sets have appropriated the inherent value of the figures above or below that price, a lucky person could still theoretically get whatever figure they wanted for the standard price (if they are as crazy as I am and feel up all the bags in the Lego aisle.)

Now please correct me if I am wrong on this, but I believe the value of the Euro has depreciated in the past several years. Certain principles of microeconomics may maintain local purchasing power even through this drop, giving the illusion that funds go just as far. Increases in the amount of paper that goes in a wallet at the end of each pay period may even make it seem -- on a local level -- that a person is actually making more than they used to, when the extra amount is due to adjustments in inflation.

Now the value of a CMF as stated before has not changed, but perhaps the numerical price associated with that purchase may adjust for inflation. Could this be the reason it appears that the theme has grown more costly over time? If not, please tell me I'm just a nosy American who shouldn't be commenting on European economics. You won't hurt my feelings.

Bonus content: here are the apparent values of minifigures thanks to uneven box distributions, as well as a link to a very useful forum topic.

Hope this helps!
> 3 votes

# Answer
Annual inflation in Euro zone has been -1-4 % the latest decade. Meanwhile EUR/USD exchange rate has been non-volatile. So that wouldn't account for much.

If you've witnessed a price increase my guess it's probably down to greater demand for CMFs, allowing Lego to raise prices.
> 2 votes

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Tags: minifigures, shopping, manufacturing, value
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# Question
Title: Are there any sensors that are capable of measuring audio pitch for EV3?
Are there any sensors that are capable of measuring audio pitch? Or is there an easy solution that a beginner would be able to make work?

# Answer
You may be able to rig something up with a Vernier Sensor Adapter, the Vernier EV3 Sensor Block, and a Vernier microphone. Although the NXT sound sensor can be made compatible with EV3, it would seem it only measures volume, and cannot measure frequency.
> 2 votes

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Tags: ev3, sensor
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# Question
Title: Star Wars Set Identification, small sets with Snow Troopers
Please help if possible to identify this Star Wars set. Let me know if you need any other information.

# Answer
> 7 votes
Definitely 8084 - LegoSnowtrooper Battle Pack:

There are only 4 Star Wars sets with the white tricycle body, and you can clearly see all the other parts match.

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Tags: set-identification, star-wars
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# Question
Title: How should I arrange LEGO to sell per pound?
I've dug up my LEGO collection, and I'm looking to sell it on Ebay or BrinkLink. All of my sets are mixed in containers. I still have the instructions but no original boxes.

I considered sorting the LEGO into sets however I realized that the extra profit I would get would be negligible for the effort it would take, especially since a lot of the LEGO is LEGO City and lesser valued sets like LEGO Agents, LEGO Exoforce etc.

Due to this, I have found that it would be best to sell the LEGO per pound. I could just sell it in bulk but I would get less profit according to this answer to another question.

If I was to sell it per pound, how should I divide the bricks? Per color, brick type (and if so what brick type) etc, or does it not matter?

Thanks.

# Answer
> 11 votes
Good question, and welcome to LEGO Answers! Assuming you are going to break up your collection but not sort it into sets, you will likely get more money for your collection if you sell it in smaller lots sorted by color. You can get a sense for what different colors are worth per pound by searching completed listings on eBay.

However, I don't believe that the answer you cited is correct in most cases (including yours). The first item listed on the most popular answer is:

> 1. Sell the collection as-is (with as much honest description as you can muster and great photos if you're selling on-line).

You don't just have random bricks. Since it sounds like you have many complete or nearly complete sets, you'd be losing that value if you break everything up an sell it in 2 pound lots.

Assuming that your collection is well kept, and you don't want to do the work to sort it, I'd recommend selling it as one large lot. List the sets that you have instructions for and indicate that you believe that they are 99% complete (e.g. you aren't aware of any missing pieces or minifigs, but some have probably wandered off over the years). There are definitely people out there that buy large lots like this and separate out and sell sets for a profit.

You'll want to take plenty of pictures. I'd spread things out and take as many detailed shots of the parts as you can. Experienced buyers will be able to tell pretty quickly how complete your collection is. Given that minifigs have much more value than regular parts, I'd also recommend taking photos of them in a way that allows them to all be identified.

# Answer
> 9 votes
Excerpt from Brickpicker:

> With bulk, in general terms, the more time you spend on it the more money you make. At a bare minimum any bulk lot needs at least a simple hose down and a quick sort to remove as many non LEGO as possible. A bulk lot treated in that manner would bring, on average, $5.00 per pound on eBay. To make any real money you need to spend the time to sort. Bricks sorted by color usually bring around $10.00 per pound. This assumes that you removed all minifigs and minifig parts. The real money in bulk is made by bringing sets back from the dead. The last loose 3181 I sold went for $46.00, had I sold it by weight I could have expected about $7.50. It took about 3 hours of work to sort/find all the pieces, but the extra return made up for it..

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Tags: shopping, trading
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title: Help with this .nxc Tripod program

text:
# Question
Title: Help with this .nxc Tripod program
I am getting a file error when I try to run this on my NXT 2.0. It's my first time using NXC and the program compiles and transfers fine...

I tried replacing the batteries, the only other thing is that I thought maybe there was a firmware problem. Only thing is, I'd rather not get a custom firmware if I don't have to.

```
/**
 * Tripod walker
 *
 * Description:  This the Tripod program, to make it walk, turn, and avoid obstacles
 *
 * Notes: Compile for 2.0 NXT firmware (1.028)
 *
 * @author Daniele Benedettelli, MCP http://robotics.benedettelli.com, Copyright (C) 2012.
 *
 * @see The GNU Public License (GPL)
 */

/*
 * This program is free software; you can redistribute it and/or modify
 * it under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by
 * the Free Software Foundation; either version 2 of the License, or
 * (at your option) any later version.
 *
 * This program is distributed in the hope that it will be useful, but
 * WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; without even the implied warranty of MERCHANTABILITY
 * or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. See the GNU General Public License
 * for more details.
 *
 * You should have received a copy of the GNU General Public License along
 * with this program; if not, write to the Free Software Foundation, Inc.,
 * 59 Temple Place, Suite 330, Boston, MA 02111-1307 USA
 */

#define STEP_PAUSE 80

#define LEFT_LEG OUT_C
#define REAR_LEG OUT_B
#define RIGHT_LEG OUT_A
#define EYE IN_4

#define NEAR 25
#define NONE -1
#define LEFT 1
#define RIGHT 2
#define FRONT 3
#define BACK 4

#define CW 1
#define CCW 0

#define KP 30
#define KD 10
#define KI 0
#define DAMP 60
#define SCALE 5

#define MID 60

int ref[3];

void Set(byte rear, byte left, byte right)
{
   ref[REAR_LEG] = rear;
   ref[LEFT_LEG] = left;
   ref[RIGHT_LEG] = right;
}

void Pulse(byte motor, int times, bool long_pulse)
{
   repeat (times)
   {
      ref[motor] = MID+10;
      Wait(80);
      //Wait(70+long_pulse*30);
      ref[motor] = MID-10;
      Wait(80);
   }
}

void PulseDouble(byte motor_one, byte motor_two, int times, bool long_pulse)
{
   repeat (times)
   {
      ref[motor_one] = 80;
      ref[motor_two] = 80;
      Wait(50+long_pulse*40);
      ref[motor_one] = 40;
      ref[motor_two] = 40;
   }
}

void Walk (int dir, int times)
{
   repeat(times)
   {
      if (dir == FRONT)
      {
         Set(MID-20,MID,MID);
         Wait(300);
         Set(MID+10,MID,MID);
         Wait(200);
      }
      else if (dir == BACK)
      {
         Set(MID-10,MID+20,MID+20);
         Wait(150);
         Set(MID-10,MID-10,MID-10);
         Wait(300);
      }
      else if (dir == RIGHT)
      {
         Set(MID-10,MID-20,MID-10);
         Wait(80);
         Set(MID+10,MID-20,MID+10);
         Wait(150);
         Set(MID-10,MID-20,MID-10);
         Wait(300);
      }
      else if (dir == LEFT)
      {
         Set(MID-10,MID-10,MID-20);
         Wait(80);
         Set(MID+10,MID+10,MID-20);
         Wait(150);
         Set(MID-10,MID-10,MID-20);
         Wait(300);
      }
//      if (times>1)  Wait(STEP_PAUSE);
   }
}

void Turn(int wise, int times)
{
   repeat (times)
   {
      ref[REAR_LEG] = MID-10;
      ref[wise==CCW? RIGHT_LEG:LEFT_LEG] = MID+10;
      Wait(100);
      ref[wise==CCW? LEFT_LEG:RIGHT_LEG] = MID+10;
      ref[wise==CCW? RIGHT_LEG:LEFT_LEG] = MID-10;
      Wait(100);
      ref[wise==CCW? LEFT_LEG:RIGHT_LEG] = MID-10;
      ref[REAR_LEG] = MID+10;
      Wait(100);
//      Pulse( wise==CCW? REAR_LEG:LEFT_LEG, 1, false);
//      Pulse(RIGHT_LEG,1,false);
//      Pulse( wise==CCW? LEFT_LEG:REAR_LEG,1,false);
   }
}

void Demo()
{
   Walk(FRONT,10);
   Turn(CCW,10);
   Walk(FRONT,10);
   Turn(CW,10);
   Walk(FRONT,10);
   Walk(LEFT,10);
   Walk(RIGHT,10);
}

task motorAcontroller()
{
   int err, P, I, D, PID, Apos, Aold;
   ResetAllTachoCounts(OUT_A);
   ResetRotationCount(OUT_A);
   while(true)
   {
      Apos = MotorRotationCount(OUT_A);
      err = Apos - ref[OUT_A];
      P = KP*err;
      I = err + KI*I*(100-DAMP)/100;
      D = KD*(err-Aold);
      PID = (P + I + D)/SCALE;
      PID = abs(PID)>100? sign(PID)*100 : PID;
      OnRev(OUT_A,PID);
      Aold = err;
   }
}

task motorBcontroller()
{
   int err, P, I, D, PID, Bpos, Bold;
   ResetAllTachoCounts(OUT_B);
   ResetRotationCount(OUT_B);
   while(true)
   {
      Bpos = MotorRotationCount(OUT_B);
      err = Bpos - ref[OUT_B];
      P = KP*err;
      I = err + KI*I*(100-DAMP)/100;
      D = KD*(err-Bold);
      PID = (P + I + D)/SCALE;
      PID = abs(PID)>100? sign(PID)*100 : PID;
      OnRev(OUT_B,PID);
      Bold = err;
   }
}

task motorCcontroller()
{
   int err, P, I, D, PID, Cpos, Cold;
   ResetAllTachoCounts(OUT_C);
   ResetRotationCount(OUT_C);
   while(true)
   {
      Cpos = MotorRotationCount(OUT_C);
      err = Cpos - ref[OUT_C];
      P = KP*err;
      I = err + KI*I*(100-DAMP)/100;
      D = KD*(err-Cold);
      PID = (P + I + D)/SCALE;
      PID = abs(PID)>100? sign(PID)*100 : PID;
      OnRev(OUT_C,PID);
      Cold = err;
   }
}

void triped_init()
{
   //SetSensorLowspeed(LEFT_EYE);
   //SetSensorLowspeed(RIGHT_EYE);
   SetSensorLowspeed(EYE);
   OnRev(OUT_ABC,20);
   Wait(80);
   Float(OUT_ABC);
   Wait(500);
   start motorAcontroller;
   start motorBcontroller;
   start motorCcontroller;
   //Set(MID+40,MID+40,MID+40);
   //Wait(1000);
   Set(MID,MID,MID);
   Wait(1000);
   /*
   repeat(3)
   {
      Set(MID,MID+20,MID+20);
      Wait(200);
      Set(MID+20,MID+20,MID);
      Wait(200);
      Set(MID+20,MID,MID+20);
      Wait(600);
   }
   Set(MID,MID,MID);
   */
}

void Jump( int times )
{
   repeat (times)
   {
      Set(90,90,90);
      Wait(1000);
      for (int i=90; i >=30; i--)
      {
         Set(i,i,i);
         Wait(1);
      }
      Wait(1000);
   }
}

task main()
{
   int count;
   triped_init();
   while (true)
   {
      if (ButtonPressed(BTNCENTER,true))
      {
         Set(MID+50,MID+50,MID+50);
         while(ButtonPressed(BTNCENTER,true));
         until(ButtonPressed(BTNCENTER,true));
      }
      if (SensorUS(EYE)>NEAR)
      {
         Walk(FRONT,1);
      }
      else
      {
         Walk(BACK,3);
         count = 0;
         while(SensorUS(EYE)<=NEAR && count<20)
         {
            Turn(CCW,3);
            count++;
         }
         if (SensorUS(EYE)<=NEAR)
         {
            count = 0;
            while(SensorUS(EYE)<NEAR && count<20)
            {
               Turn(CW,3);
               count++;
            }
            Walk(LEFT,4);
         }
         else
         {
            Walk(RIGHT,4);
         }
         //Turn(CCW,5);
      }
   }
}

```

## the error

# Answer
> 2 votes
I got this to work. Set the optimisation level to 1 on the NBC/NXC tab of the compilation options. Then recompile and download.

# Answer
> 1 votes
I had the exact same problem when I built the tripod. This program is written in BrickCC, instead of the standard NXT-G. The way to solve this is to download and install the compiler for brickCC, which can be found by browsing the tripod section on robotsquare here.

Sources: robotsquare.com

---
Tags: nxc
---


title: Lego Racer kit with Chargeable Cars

text:
# Question
Title: Lego Racer kit with Chargeable Cars
I have an old Lego set that I've lost all the documentation on. It's about 10 years old (I see ©2003 in various places). The set built a track and contained two charging stations that integrated into the track. The charging station also counts laps with the green LEDs on top when an infrared beam is broken. The racers were small and electric, but, rather than requiring batteries of their own, they were charged by pushing the racer down on the charging station.

Something has broken in the motor, and it no longer turns, even if I apply 3V directly to it. I haven't been able to find any replacements, but looking without knowing the model number is difficult.

What set is this? Where can I find a replacement motor/car?

# Answer
The set is 8364, and you can see it here: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?S=8364-1

The motor is part 5313a: (http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=5313a)

Unfortunately, they do not seem to be widely available. The current inventory has one guy selling one as-is (untested) for $10 in the US, and one guy selling a working one for $40 in Israel. You can replace the whole set for a substantially higher price. Sorry I couldn't be of more help for replacing it, but hopefully now that you know the set and part numbers, you can search elsewhere.
> 7 votes

# Answer
I had the same problem. This is a common fault with these cars. If the car is dropped hard the magnets inside can shatter making the wheel not turn or be crunchy.

There is a solution. You can buy replacement motors on eBay. The original motors are 6mm diameter by 15mm length. I found some 6mm by 12mm length. They just push out of the gearing housing. Solder two wires, and replacement is complete. My son loves seeing the cars whizzing around. Hope that helps.
> 4 votes

---
Tags: set-identification, replacement-parts
---


title: Which system is more efficient?

text:
# Question
Title: Which system is more efficient?
I got a few XL power functions motors, and want to combine them to make a racing car. Let's get to right to the question:

Which one save the most torque power? This one...

...or this one?

PS: It is okay if you warn me that even with three XL motors, the car won't work.

# Answer
The torque in both versions would be the same.

Your first version just adds 3 of these gears:

The ratio between them is 1:1 so it will be the same as if you connect the axle straight into those small gears, as you do in the second image.

(Well, technically speaking, having 3 more gears in the mix will sacrifice some power to friction, but the theory is the same.)

---

Note, this answer assumes you aren't also running an axle through both these gears in your first image.

If you are, then it simply will not work.
> 5 votes

---
Tags: technic, motor, gears
---


# Question
Title: Can you identify a box that says LEGO Extra Parts no. 058?
I got a box that says LEGO Extra Parts. Think number is #058 any help?

# Answer
> 5 votes
It's a Samsonite supplemental pack

058-1: Small wheels

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: Need help with part identification... can't find part number
No apparent part number that I could find. Help with IDing this part? Thank you!

# Answer
Found it while looking for a different part in the inventory! It is 2463 Brick, Modified Facet 3 x 3 x 2 Top
> 9 votes

---
Tags: part-identification
---


title: Identify this baseplate

text:
# Question
Title: Identify this baseplate
I recently purchased a large lot of LEGO parts. Most everything I'm familiar with, but there are a few pieces that I'd love to get some insight on if anyone here can help.

# Answer
This is a Megabloks baseplate, not LEGO.

For future reference - LEGO pieces will have "LEGO" stamped on the studs (where possible) and will have "(c) LEGO" somewhere on the inside in most cases as well. Difficult to read or find, but it is there upon close inspection. Your piece does not have any markings on the studs.
> 7 votes

---
Tags: piece-information, part-identification, clone-brands
---


# Question
Title: What are these LEGO pieces? Heavy 6x6 disks
I'd like help trying to identify these heavy discs.

# Answer
They are officially "Turntable 6 x 6 Round Base" AKA NinjaGo Spinners. They come in sets with Ninja minifigures and weapons that you can then spin up and have them fight one another.

There are a lot of different varieties depending on the specific coloring, they can be found here:

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?q=ninjago%20spinner
> 7 votes

---
Tags: piece-information, part-identification
---


title: LEGO WeDo and Mac OS X Lion

text:
# Question
Title: LEGO WeDo and Mac OS X Lion
Just got a new Mac with Mac OS X 10.7 Lion instead of burned old one. Now I can't install WeDo software since its installer doesn't support Lion. Google search suggests that LEGO released a patch to installer that solves this problem, but all links are broken. Any help in adapting WeDo software to Lion is appreciated.

# Answer
I believe this is the current location for the Lion Patch

In the interests of finding it again when the LEGO group change their site again:

1. Visit the LEGO Education page.
2. Navigate to "Pre-school and School" -\> Secondary -\> 11+ LEGO MINDSTORMS Education -\> Downloads (or similar)
3. I then filtered the list to just the Download Type of "Software Update / Patch".
> 6 votes

# Answer
The solution just lain on the surface! To install WeDo you should open Support folder in DMG image and DIRECTLY click on English or yourlanguage.mpkg to launch installation program.
> 1 votes

---
Tags: software, wedo
---


title: LEGO part 3039 black with red sticker

text:
# Question
Title: LEGO part 3039 black with red sticker
Wondering what set this came from.

# Answer
> 6 votes
After cross-referencing Part 3039 with the crystal piece shown on the sticker, Part 52, in each shade of green, I found it: Clash of the Heroes from the Batman vs. Superman sets. The sticker itself is sheet 76044stk01b.

---
Tags: sticker-identification
---


# Question
Title: Connecting a webcam to NXT and streaming a video
is it possible to connect any webcam or modify it in such a way that the NXT controller will be able to stream a video to another computer? Iv'e seen there are special sensors for it, but I can't really buy one on the internet.

So is there a way to take a webcam and connect it to the NXT controller? Also, is it possible to stream videos through Bluetooth? Or do I need to somehow connect the controller to the internet?

# Answer
> 1 votes
The only camera capable of connecting directly to the NXT is the Vision Subsystem for NXT or EV3:

With modified firmware, it is possible to send images from the cam to the NXT to the computer. But trying to stream video via this technique is impractical since each frame takes about 30 seconds to send to the computer. If you had a connection over USB, it would probably operate faster, but still not fast enough to effectively stream video.

If your goal is for the images to reach the computer, though, why does it need to pass through the NXT first? Why not use a webcam that sends the video directly to the computer? It would be much faster. There's software to support controlling NXT robots and receiving video from the webcam, such as iCommand. Or alternatively, you could have one window streaming video, and have the NXT software or BricxcC open in another window for controlling your robot.

# Answer
> 0 votes
I would suggest to use something better - Raspberry Pi. It can control motors via shield and transmit video via bluetooth. It is cheaper then mindstorms and needs only Power functions.

Vehicle with control via bluetooth

---
Tags: nxt, compatibility
---


title: Send variable to EV3 via WiFi

text:
# Question
Title: Send variable to EV3 via WiFi
I'm trying to connect my EV3 via Wifi to my Unity game. Is there a simple way to send a command to the EV3?

I gave the EV3 a fixed IP and I'm getting the broadcast which the device is sending. So there is a connection. Can I send a variable or something to my EV3?

# Answer
First, you need to learn how to make a TCP connection to your EV3. There is a good guide on this here.

Then you need to learn about EV3 VM bytecodes and how to send direct commands.

Since you are using Unity, you may be able to use a pre-existing library such as the MonoBrick Communication Library or the Brian Peek library.

To send a variable, you need to use mailbox commands along with "Messaging" blocks in the EV3-G software.
> 1 votes

# Answer
so... after talking to some people and having a sleeples night i switched to monobrick firmware and started a small webserver.

```
    namespace MonoBrickHelloWorld
{
    class Program
    {
        public static void Main (string[] args)
        {

            //LcdConsole.WriteLine ("Startup");

            HttpListener httpListener = new HttpListener();
            httpListener.Prefixes.Add("http://*:9090/");
            httpListener.Start();

            var run = true;

            (new ButtonEvents()).EscapePressed += () => run = false;

            while (run)
            {
                var context = httpListener.GetContext();
                Process(context);
            }
        } //Main Ende

        private static void Process(HttpListenerContext context)
        {
            string reqPath = context.Request.Url.AbsolutePath;

            //Console.WriteLine(reqPath);
            LcdConsole.WriteLine (reqPath);
            //

        }// Process End

    } //class Program end
}

```

i will split the url send to my ev3 and start different things. wow. Source: http://www.monobrick.dk/forums/topic/webserver/
> 0 votes

---
Tags: ev3, mindstorms, wi-fi
---


# Question
Title: What sort of college education is best to become a LEGO designer?
I'm a big fan of LEGO and I would love to know about what kind of college I should apply to so I can get a degree to work with TLG. Also, I was wondering if I wanted to be a LEGO Set creator, would I have to move out of the United States and move to Denmark, or would I be able to work in the United States and create sets? I'd love to get feedback because I am in 10th grade, and I am going to college soon.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Try for an industrial engineering degree. That would be the best fit for a set designer. An art degree would work too.

If you want to be a LEGO set designer, you're gonna have to move to Denmark. Of course, you need to be accepted first. You can stay where you are while you work on your degree and become more proficient in working with bricks.

---
Tags: lego-group
---


# Question
Title: How to instruct EV3 to go a certain place in the room?
I'd like to instruct my LEGO Mindstorms EV3 robot navigate to a defined place in the room ("return home").

With the lack of GPS capabilities, what other possibilities exist?

Maybe directing the robot with IR Beacon?

# Answer
> 1 votes
I would use the IR Beacon that's shipped with the Home Edition of the LEGO Mindstorms Education EV3.

The Beacon is integrated within the IR remote control (the big horizontal button at the top). The LEGO Education programming language (EV3-G) has a block to get the distance and angle from the IR beacon. So it is possible to search for a beacon and move your robot into the specific direction.

If I remember correctly you can use four different channels with a IR remote control. So it should be possible to use four different IR Beacons simultaneously.

I think that's the easiest solution you can achieve with not so much effort.

---
Tags: mindstorms
---


# Question
Title: What is the name of the piece that is often used to switch gears?
I have been trying to find this part on BrickLink and have searched every Technic category. I have come up empty.

Could someone provide the name of this part so that I can find it on BrickLink?

# Answer
That is Part 6641 - Technic Changeover Catch.

Also known as "Technic Transmission Changeover Catch".
> 10 votes

---
Tags: technic, part-identification, bricklink
---


# Question
Title: What set is this dark grey remote with orange buttons from?
This is what the front looks like:

This is what the back looks like, I'm 90% sure it says 4272 at the top:

This is the remote control of a set I got ages ago, when I was still a little boy. I lost the receiver-part, but from my memory it looked like a bulky base for a car and had a antenna with the actual receiver on it. I'm trying to use the remote in a project, but its turning out to be more difficult than I thought, and I hoped that finding the actual set would help me. The main thing I need is the IR details/protocol so I can read the remote with a IR receiver and use it for tons of fun stuff. I hope someone can help me out.

PS. I know it looks a lot like the Bionicle Manas set, but its slightly different, notice the channel switches on the front sides of the remotes.

# Answer
> 3 votes
It looks like part 2162c01 - Electric, RC Controller Racer Complete Assembly (Black Bottom, Red Buttons) from RC Nitro Flash (set 4589).

---
Tags: piece-information, set-identification, software, piece-usage
---


# Question
Title: Identify this airplane axle holder from Little Prince MOC
Can anyone name the circled piece in this picture?

# Answer
> 6 votes
Looks like this piece:

Plate, Modified 2 x 4 Thin with Bottom Struts to Pins

It comes in a few sets, usually as landing gear.

---
Tags: piece-information
---


# Question
Title: Restoring minifig parts to original configuration for sale
I have approx 100 Lego Figures (besides extra 'body parts') but I know that most are not as originally issued. While all are Lego parts they are all mixed up. I'd like to sell the whole lot, but concerned that I have to restore them to their original (uniform)look - or at least in their original look they would command a (somewhat) higher price. Any recommendations or thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks.

# Answer
> 2 votes
You may use the minifigs section of Brickset to help you. They have reference of over 9000 minifigs released by TLC over time. By browsing per topic, you may complete some of your minifigs and using the site is completely free.

There are also several books like this Complete Lego Minifigure Catalogue (1975-2015), even if books may offer a higher challenge to search. Moreover, books are not free.

# Answer
> 0 votes
A book with all figures has been published in 2014 by Dotling Kindersley Ltd, 80 Strand London

---
Tags: minifigures
---


# Question
Title: What is the best way to program Mindstorms EV3?
I'm just starting to use the LEGO Mindstorms EVE robot and I'm a bit hesitant which way to choose for programming: the official graphic software or any alternative (preferably the Linux based ev3dev)?

I don't really use Windows and find the official pictogram-like GUI cumbersome and a bit childish, so I tend to pick ev3dev.

At the same time, most of the tutorials/instructions are based on the official program and I don't know if there is a straightforward way to map all these steps to ev3dev instructions; moreover, I'm a bit wary to rely on an unofficial 3rd party solution (maybe it is immature, error-prone, buggy, incomplete etc.). But I definitely want to stick either of them, no time to try out both extensively...

# Answer
> 1 votes
You have various options.

If you use Linux mainly ev3dev is a good start I think. I've worked with Java (LeJOS) and C# (MonoBrick) in combination with the LEGO Mindstorms Education EV3. But there are more bindings for the EV3. If I recall correctly at least for Python, C, C++ and some more educational friendly languages. The information you need to write your own language/compiler for the EV3 platform are available on the LEGO Mindstorms website. I'm currently developing my own language, compiler and IDE for my master thesis.

The more general question you must answer yourself is: What's the goal you want to achieve? Do you want to learn how to program or do you have already knowledge in one or more languages? If you want to learn how to program you should IMHO use a more beginner friendly language like the EV3-G (the graphical language you mentioned). If you already have some knowledge you can start with a text-based language.

The second question is: Do you want to use/learn a graphical language or a text-based one? There are graphical alternatives to EV3-G like the Open Roberta Project. It uses a Scratch like language (based on the same JavaScript library).

Hopefully I could give you some hints because the topic is more complex than many think in first place. If you have more questions just feel free and ask.

---
Tags: ev3, programming, software
---


title: Why does Jay from Ninjago have a scar?

text:
# Question
Title: Why does Jay from Ninjago have a scar?
Jay, one of the protagonists of the Ninjago series, has a scar on his face. I would like someone to let me know what this is about.

# Answer
> 6 votes
According to the book, *LEGO NINJAGO: The Visual Dictionary (Masters of Spinjitzu)*:

> Eyebrow notch caused by an explosion

The relevant page can be previewed on the Amazon page for the book:

---
Tags: minifigures, ninjago
---


# Question
Title: Anyone knows this Star Wars model? Grey and dark red with axles for side modules
Got this from a yard sale and now looking for the building instructions.

# Answer
> 8 votes
Definitely 75039-1: V-Wing Starfighter:

Instructions (2 different copies, US and EU):

---
Tags: set-identification, star-wars
---


# Question
Title: Does the Mindstorms RCX Input Ports have a Pull-Down Resistor?
Sorry for the strange question. I was wondering if anyone knew anything about the internals of the RCX mindstorms brick. Specifically, does it have a pull-down resistor (if no sensor is connected, will it read 0)?

# Answer
The RCX input port has a pull-up resistor, not a pull-down (so it reads high: 1024 in raw mode). You can see reverse engineered I/O port electronics here: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=109570
> 4 votes

---
Tags: mindstorms, electronics
---


# Question
Title: Moving the motor to certain initial position
I was assisting my child in EV3 missions, specifically, the 3rd mission of TRACK3R, the one where the robot has to grab two tires and put them elsewhere.

The mission requires to manipulate the Medium motor at about 90 degree turns: 90 degrees anti-clockwise means "close" and 90 degrees clockwise means "open".

It quickly becomes a hassle to reset the hand to the initial position, from whatever position is was left after the program exited. Forcing the motor to turn until it can't no more is not a solution, because the motor gets stuck, green LEDs on the brick are blinking, and the action block in the software does not advance.

# Answer
If you are using the mode "turn by N degrees", it will become stuck. However, you can try using the other mode - "turn for N seconds" and it will work. It will work because the first mode will keep trying to run the motor until the motor turns exactly by 90 degrees, and so the program will appear stuck. In the second mode the motor will be on for specified number of seconds and then the program will go to the next block even if the rotation was less than 90 degrees.
> 0 votes

---
Tags: ev3, mindstorms, motor
---


title: Infrared sensor behavior

text:
# Question
Title: Infrared sensor behavior
I'm developing a small program with the LEGO's Ev3 development tool. I'm trying to make the robot rotate, 30° at time, and if the infrared sensor detects something then make something and stop. Here is my current program:

The result is odd: it makes a few loops, than I can see the sensor turns off for a few seconds and then it is completely unresponsive, even if I stop the program and run other programs! I have to turn it off and on again to make it work.

The sensor is on port 4, and it works with programs developed on the ev3 itself.

# Answer
Try waiting longer - one second or one and a half. And you were using the ultrasonic sensor but in the program you use infrared sensor block.

You can switch to port view prior to running your program to verify that your sensor is of the expected type and works.
> 2 votes

---
Tags: ev3
---


# Question
Title: What is the best option for Mindstorms EV3 remote control for motors?
I have never experimented with remote controlling EV3 but I wonder what is the best way to use it, especially in the case when I'd like to control large and medium motors parallel as well, possibly from relatively long distance. As far as I know, there are different possibilities with respective drawbacks:

* Use IR remote: short range (by the way, it is necessary to direct the IR beam directly into the "face" of the IR receiver?)
* Use mobile app via Bluetooth: difficult to direct multiple motors at the same time (?)

Alternatively, is controlling over WiFi (assuming WiFi dongle in the brick) working?

# Answer
> 3 votes
As you mentioned, the IR remote has a relatively short range. You must not direct the IR beam directly in front of the IR receiver but it is working much better if you do. If you're on the back of the receiver for example it is possible that's your signal won't be received.

I'm controlling EV3 robots over WiFi. That's working very well. I'm using the EDIMAX EW-7811UN Wireless USB Adapter that is working without any modifications on the EV3 with the latest firmware (1.09E in my case).

I think that's worth a try but depends of course on what you want to achieve.

---
Tags: ev3, mindstorms, remote-control
---


# Question
Title: What is the best way to sell a nearly complete large set?
I found a UCS Imperial Star Destroyer 10030 Set at garage sale. It looks complete (90% of it is still in sealed plastic bags). How can I confirm the pieces are all there, and how can I sell a set like this effectively? I'm not currently a seller on eBay.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Welcome! Here are a couple of suggestions:

a. Find a review of this set online, ideally one with pictures which shows all the bags included in the set. This will allow you to verify which bags have been opened (you already know which ones are still sealed).

b. Then, download the instructions for 10030 from LEGO.

c. Here comes the tricky part. Find out which steps contain parts from your opened bags, and check if you have all of them. If this is somehow impossible, you have two alternative options:

1. Open all the bags, build the 10030 and see which pieces are missing, then order those from Bricklink.com and complete your set. List the set as Used, Like New, Built once to validate completeness and you should be able to get a price relatively close to the New price.
2. Sell the set as Used, 90% Sealed bags, possibly some missing pieces. Depending on how complete it actually is (you won't know) you might get some good offers, especially if box and stickers and such are still present.

To sell LEGO on EBay, you don't need any special priviliges. Just create a listing and sell. However, if you have never used or sold on EBay before, and you have zero or low feedback (\<50), starting off with listing a high-value item like UCS 10030 is bound to set off scam-warnings in many of your potential buyers. You'd need to sell other items first before putting this one up for sale. Of course you can always try to sell it via Craigslist, OfferUp, LetGo and other garage-sale apps, but you'll likely get less money for your set (even taking into account that EBay/Paypal will take 12-13% of the sell price and CL/OfferUp etc. take nothing).

Good luck!

# Answer
> 2 votes
I would grab the set inventory from Bricklink and see what parts you may be missing. This will be a time consuming task, particularly if you're planning to keep everything in bags, but this is probably the best way to absolutely confirm that you know what you are looking at. Often, second-hand purchases from garage sales, Craigslist, or similar sources may also contain extra parts or bags not related to the set that you are actually trying to sell, so it can be hard to confirm completeness without actually going through piece by piece.

Once you know what is missing, you can either list it exactly (e.g. 99% complete missing 2 gray 1x2 tiles) or buy the missing parts on Bricklink and sell it as a complete used set.

If you don't want to go through the work of verifying completeness, you can definitely just sell this as-is providing as much detail about what you think is present as possible. Include lots of detailed photos of exactly what parts are present, and you should still be able to fetch a fair price for this.

Regarding selling on eBay, you are able to sell from a brand new account, but this will raise red flags for buyers, particularly if your first sale is an expensive item like this. This may ultimately hurt your selling price. If you have a friend who regularly uses eBay, they may be willing to list this for you.

---
Tags: shopping, star-wars
---


title: Is there a slotted yoke piece?

text:
# Question
Title: Is there a slotted yoke piece?
I need it for mechanisms such as the Scotch yoke, but I only see workarounds, like this one, where the slot is made with several other pieces.

# Answer
> 4 votes
I don't believe there is a single piece that exists. It's certainly possible to create a mechanism much smaller than the one shown as well as one with fewer pieces.

In theory a single piece would not be possible, the mechanism consists of a minimum of two pieces for it to be possible: a rotating drive and a sliding yoke (as well as several additional pieces to keep everything in place).

## Rotational Drive

There are many ways to create a rotation drive, they all consist of an axle (of any length) and can use pulleys/gears, and liftarms cranks.

**1 + 2**

For the first two examples I've used a Technic, Pin with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and Towball (6628) but you can just as easily use a standard pin (2780) as it's much more common.

**2**

A similar setup to **1** but with two Technic Cam (6575) pieces.

**3**

The third example with two pieces is probably the simplest and most compact, it uses the Technic, Liftarm 1 x 3 with 2 Axle Holes and Pin / Crank (33299). This setup is limited to movement between five studs (up/down, left/right).

## Sliding Yoke

Here are two examples I've made of a sliding yoke. They are identical apart from the beams used. The first one can move five studs and the second can move three studs (possibly the smallest combination). You can of course use any length of beam to create larger yokes.

The beams are connected with a Technic, Pin 3L with Friction Ridges Lengthwise (6558) and a Technic, Pin Connector Round 1L (18654) or you can replace both pieces with a Technic, Pin 3L with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and Center Pin Hole (87082)

There are twelve pieces in both builds. You can reduce this to 10 if you remove the black standard pin, red connector and black axle with a Technix Axle with a stopper such as this piece and a Technic bush (3713).

This build can be reduced to 8 pieces if you make the substitutions shown above.

---
Tags: piece-information, 3rd-party
---


# Question
Title: Piece Identification, 3x6 white horizontal cylinder
I have these 4 white pieces from a large lot of pieces I purchased. Any idea what set they may be from? Most of the other sets have been Batman, Superman or super heros.

# Answer
These appear in 4s in many iterations of the Imperial Shuttle, and also many of the X-wing, as well as the MT-201 Ultra-Drill Walker and the SP Undercover Cruiser. I can't say for certain which of these sets originally contained those pieces, but this should get you closer. This list also shows sets that contain the piece in smaller quantities.
> 12 votes

# Answer
That is a Cylinder 3 x 6 x 2 2/3 Horizontal Item No: 30360.

In white it appears in a number of sets as listed in the already existing answer.
> 10 votes

# Answer
According to brickset, this piece is either the 3x3x6 engine or this other 3x3x6 engine piece. They are both pretty similiar, but I think they differ in the amount of studs in the tubes on the side. Alternately, you could check out their group/piece class here for the first piece that I mentioned above, or here for the second piece. I might be mistaken though, since I have that piece at home, and Brickset may be referring to the same piece, but at different angles/sides. You can check what set they come in simply by clicking on "sets" on the side bar labelled "part details". If you are checking out my 3rd or 4th link, simply click on each link that you would like to open, and click on "sets" as I mentioned above.
> 0 votes

# Answer
It must be parts from the set LEGO X-Wing 9493. Here it is on Bricklink.
> 0 votes

---
Tags: part-identification, set-identification
---


# Question
Title: Can you identify this bevelled grey 2x1 piece?
I found this incredible MOC of the Ghost In The Shell robot and found a piece I have never seen before. Is it a LEGO piece and, if so, can you help me identify it?

Link to the image source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/coleblaq/31984689954/in/faves-43378406@N08/

# Answer
It's 99563 LegoMinifig, Utensil Gold Ingot (Bar) in Light Bluish Grey.

Originally used for Gold pieces, nowadays regularly found as bricks and other wall decorations, for example on the ground floor of 10251 Brick Bank.
> 21 votes

---
Tags: part-identification, moc
---


# Question
Title: Death Star 10188 Help with step 8 on page 76
On step 8 of page 76 I do not understand what holds the two sections together. The "LEGO Flat Silver Technic Axle Joiner Perpendicular with Extension (53586)" has a smooth bore where it attaches to the "LEGO Medium Stone Gray Technic Cross Block 1 x 3 (Pin/Pin/Pin) with 4 Pins (48989)". And directly under the first part is a Technic pin (part# 4211815) in yet another smooth bore opening (part# 4526985).

I do not see any clips, pins or other means of attaching these two components.

# Answer
> 2 votes
The "LEGO Flat Silver Technic Axle Joiner Perpendicular with Extension (53586)" smooth bore piece is secured to a technic pin on piece "Technic, Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with 4 Pins (48989)" installed in step 5, with the relevant pin marked in step 7 in my marked up directions below:

The smooth bore piece connects to the pin holding them together, with the lower axle connection preventing rotation.

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Tags: technic
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# Question
Title: EV3 not recognized by PC when attempting firmware update after interrupted update
I have just sent the following inquiry to Lego Customer Support:

> I aborted a firmware update and now the Intelligent Brick does not get past the "Starting.." message when it is turned on. I followed the instructions at http://www.legoengineering.com/ev3-gone-wrong-what-to-do-when-your-ev3-stops-working/ and I can get the Brick to switch to updating, but the EV3 software on my PC does not see that the Brick is connected via USB cable. Is there anything else I can do? The Brick is new and should be covered by warranty - how would I send it in to exchange it?

I'd appreciate answers to either question.

# Answer
> 3 votes
You have done the right thing by contacting Customer Service. They'll be able to help you potentially fix this or replace the part if needed.

I know you said that you already tried this, but I wanted to list the steps for a firmware update here in case others find this question. Here's the exact language from the EV3 user guide:

> Forced Firmware Update
>
> If you need to update your firmware manually, follow the steps below. (Note: the EV3 Brick still requires a USB connection to your computer)
>
> 1. Make sure your EV3 Brick is turned off.
> 2. Hold down the Back, Center, and Right buttons on the EV3 Brick.
> 3. When the screen says “Updating”, release the buttons.
>
> If the manual firmware update does not make your EV3 Brick work the first time, repeat the manual update process.

Here are some general things to try if you haven't already:

1. Take out the EV3 battery and unplug from your computer and just let the brick sit for 30 seconds or so. Repeat the above steps.
2. Reboot your computer, or try using another computer, and repeat the above steps.
3. Try using another USB cable and/or USB port and repeat the above steps. This is unlikely to help in your case since the cable just worked for you, but it could be helpful to someone else.

Please post back here if Customer Service is able to provide a fix for this issue, as I'm sure it will help out someone else.

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Tags: ev3
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# Question
Title: Can someone please identify this 2x2 round dome part with 1 stud for us?
We're trying to identify the middle part in this picture. We would appreciate any help we can get.

# Answer
> 10 votes
It looks like a Round 2 x 2 Dome Top (553b) brick with a Round 1 x 1 (4073) transparent plate.

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Tags: piece-information, part-identification
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# Question
Title: Can someone ID this part, a 1xY plate with an inverted slope?
I am trying to ID this part. It is the upside down triangle part that seems to be linked to a tile.

# Answer
> 9 votes
I believe you are seeing one end of 2 of Part 52501 Slope, Inverted 45 6 x 1 Double with 1 x 4 Cutout in Dark Bluish Grey.

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Tags: part-identification
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