title: Can I build a faster LEGO train motor?

text:
# Question
Title: Can I build a faster LEGO train motor?
I was going over LEGO Power Functions train motors, and I was not satisfied with the speed. Speed seven is fast enough to derail the train on the curve, but not fast enough realistically. I am thinking that if I open the motor and put in bigger cog wheels, it will hopefully make my train go fast enough (I'm trying to get at least 10 mph.) Will this work? Where can I get bigger cog wheels?

# Answer
Mathematically, the largest driver wheel you can buy for LEGO is Big Ben's XL driver, with a diameter of 36.8mm. To reach 10 mph, that wheel will have to spin:

36.8 mm diameter -\> 115.6 mm circumference -\> 7.2 x 10^-5 mi/revolution -\> 2320 RPM (!!)

This means that you have to gear up a motor to run at 2320 RPM. An XL PF motor with **no load** spins at about 220 RPM. I just don't think that's going to happen.

And if your goal is to use the smaller wheels, there's no way to accomplish what you want with LEGO.

Don't forget, the TGV (and other high speed trains) are incredibly complex and well engineered machines. It requires a specific track layout, curve radius, rail width tolerance, surface roughness tolerance, and we haven't even reached the train itself.

Honestly, accomplishing a scale-equivalent speed using only LEGO bricks would lead to a revolution in transportation design, because if you can do it with LEGO at L-gauge without blowing up, you could easily do it with steel, plastics, and composites at people-scale.
> 11 votes

# Answer
10 mph (16km/h) is a crazy speed at that scale \[citation needed\]. Chances are quite high that your car will derail even on straight lines.

Now, is it possible to reach that speed using lego motors and lego pieces ? I'd say no, but I think you can get quite fast, in the magnitude of 10-12 km/h (6-7.5mph).

As stated in another answer, using the bigger train wheels available, you need to reach 1740RPM loaded (for a 7.5mph target).

> Note: all electrical motor facts are from: http://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm

The first option coming to my mind is using a (couple of) pull-back motors (http://brickset.com/parts/6024100)

The torque is quite high, the rotation speed is crazy, but:

* it'll totally unwind in about 8-10 meters, going freewheel
* it'll probably slip at startup
* it's not RC

The second option is using the PF train motor, which rotate at ~1900RPM unloaded. You can get extra power (up to 1.9W) by powering it with 12V batteries (at your own risks). Changing the gearing on this one won't get you far. Sure you'll get higher unloaded RPM, but your performances loaded will be really poor.

I've seen cars using 2 of those reach 12km/h, so why not trains ?

Still not fast enough ? Try the mighty RC Buggy motor (http://brickset.com/parts/4177239)

You will have to gear it up a bit (unloaded RPM is 1700), probably at 2x. You might even have to power-it up to 10.5V, but I've seen technic cars reaching 12km/h using this motor, so why not trains ?

But it's already time to slow down, you're approaching the first curve.
> 7 votes

# Answer
Aside from the mechanical enhancement, you could also apply more electrical power to the motor. Some LUGs achieve record-breaking train speed by doing just that, although they usually use custom rails as well as transformers.

Of course, overpowering motors isn't usually recommended; and for a PF one you'll have the issue of embedding a larger battery; but considering the PF motor isn't very expensive and may be able to sustain excessive power quite gracefully, it might be worth a try.

Other than that, yes, using other motors than the train one might be a good solution. Even with regular trains, you can build a mock motor which can then be driven by another PF motor in the cabin. Not sure it would sustain high speeds though.
> 5 votes

# Answer
If the original train motor is not fast enough, you could build your own engine using normal PF motors and use gearing that is suitable for your needs. Then drive your train via stand-alone train wheels:
> 4 votes

# Answer
Yes, this train is not going at 10mph. The 12 kph from that video is about 6-7 mph. Closer to 5. You could try rewinding the coils in the motors of the wheel system as to increase the rpm of the motor.

Look this up if you are unclear on anything.

Also, try switching out the motor for that of higher RPM
> 0 votes

# Answer
Simple way is to buy mini faster engine on ebay and install it in, like 10000rpm one or 25000rpm one would then it would increase speed but the issue is quite complicated to install in but can be done then if rpm increase, speed would be about the same but don't think it would hold on the track you would need to redesign whole train add weight and then different wheels etc...
> 0 votes

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Tags: trains, motor
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# Question
Title: How to create log cabin notched corners?
How can I create the notched corner look of the logs on the LEGO IDEAS: Log Cabin

# Answer
First of all, that's a digital model. This means it may use parts in colors we don't have. It looks like Reddish Brown is used here, so the part choice is rather limited.

Upon closer inspection of the model it looks like each corner has 2x2 column with round 2x2 bricks attached from each side as seen here:

I find using Brick, Modified 1 x 1 x 1 2/3 with Studs on 1 Side (which **is** available in Reddish Brown) in alternating manner to be the solution here. These bricks are exactly the size of 2x2 plate placed vertically, so no tiny gaps. And it also allows you to have as musch studs as possible on all sides.
> 12 votes

# Answer
I may be misreading the question, but to answer what I think you're asking: They have used Tile, Round 2 x 2 with Bottom Stud Holder with Tree Stump / Wood Grain Pattern, which has a printed pattern that looks like the end of a wood log with notches
> 7 votes

# Answer
Given the color, I would think it's Brick, Modified 1 x 1 with Stud on 1 Side, which (unlike many other similar bricks) is available in Reddish Brown. If you put two side-by-side, then you can hang the decorated round tile off it, and then put two more side-by-side, but pointing the **other** way to hang the next decorated round tile. You may need to add plates to space everything just right.
> 2 votes

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Tags: design
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title: Unknown Piece - Looks like a train car

text:
# Question
Title: Unknown Piece - Looks like a train car
I found this piece in a tub of Lego; it looks like a train car. There is a hinge piece in the middle that tilts 90 degrees. I've looked at BrickLink & Brick owl to no avail. Can anyone help me identify this piece. I know it is Lego as it is stamped ©Lego Group on the back

# Answer
It's Vehicle, Base 4 x 6 Racer Base with Orange Wheels

(I found it on bricklink by searching for "vehicle base")
> 14 votes

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information
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title: What is this Bionicle-looking set?

text:
# Question
Title: What is this Bionicle-looking set?
Can anyone identify this set?

Apparently my father has a bunch of these, and he's trying to figure out what to list on ebay. It appears to be at least Lego / Technic compatible, but I don't know much about Bionicle sets, so I don't know if it's name-brand or a knockoff.

# Answer
> 3 votes
In my experience, those big Bionicle pieces all seem to have the word Lego and a mold number on them (albeit fairly tiny). To me, that weapon in the right hand (our left) looks like 55827c01 Inika Light-up Laser Axe, but that was in two sets, and neither is all-white like you have. So it appears to be a mix.

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Tags: set-identification, technic, bionicle
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# Question
Title: How can I restore a .lms file created on Mindstorms Inventor to another device?
I have Mindstorms Inventor. I have been able to send my `.lms` files to my computer as backup. Now I would like to be able to load those programs on another device. How can I accomplish this?

# Answer
On desktop, click *File* \> *Open...*. or double-click on the file in a file browser.

On Android, you will need a file browsing app like *Files*. Find the file and tap on it. You may be asked which app to use. Pick *MINDSTORMS*.
> 5 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, robot-inventor
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# Question
Title: Does anyone know these non-LEGO bricks? dimples in studs, no connectors on the bottom
We found this box of old (definitely) non-LEGO bricks in Czech Republic. Probably from the seventies or eighties? Does anyone know the manufacturer - brand or set (s) from which they can be? We thought it was Wundersteine (Wonderbricks), but their bricks are different. Here are some photos, no visible logos. Many thanks for any suggestions.

# Answer
> 1 votes
This is one of Eastern Germany's (DDR) two brick systems (created by typical VEBs and I'd be suprised if you find those letters anywhere printed on the bricks):

* most likely Formo because of the simplicity of the backside and how basic all the bricks are - you should **not** be able to combine it with *Lego* bricks and these bricks are rather **difficult to impossible** to assemble. Or
* less likely PEBE because I've never encountered so large bricks for that, and in your pictures I see not one specialized brick although those weren't uncommon, while sets with only basic bricks were not typical - you should be **able** to combine it with *Lego* bricks and these bricks can be put together **without further problems**.

*PEBE*'s bricks looked different thru the years - what you show might be from 1980s, because later the studs consisted of cylinders only (yet still compatible with *Lego*). For i.e. 2x4 flat bricks without studs it was very typical to have not even one cylinder or stud on the backside.

*Formo*'s highlight was a set of the Palast der Republik, intended to be bought as souvenir.

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification, clone-brands, vintage
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# Question
Title: How to resolve Studio's "unavailable color" warning for EV3 motors and sensors?
I have recently switched to Studio from Lego Digital Designer for designing EV3 robots and other mechanisms. It's a great program, but the color palette is driving me crazy.

I want to add Lego EV3 motors and sensors (e.g. the 99455 medium motor) to my model, but when I do, a persistent "unavailable color" issue appears in the step list.

I have tried resolving this by changing the color to White, Very Light Bluish Gray, Very Light Gray, Light Bluish Gray, and Light Gray. None of them make the warning go away. It's driving me nuts.

I don't understand why this happens. The motors only have one design: white and gray. In cases like this (where only one color scheme exists), I should only be allowed to pull the part out of the palette in its default color.

Further, I don't see a way to learn how to fix it. Studio doesn't show me what colors *are* available for this part, at least as far as I can see.

Can anyone help? First, what is the correct color for EV3 parts to avoid this warning? Second, is there a way in Studio to learn this answer, in case I run into similar situations?

# Answer
> 3 votes
According to SylvainLS in this BrickLink post, these are the answers to my questions:

* You can find out which colors are available for a part by selecting a part, opening the Color Palette on the right side of the interface, and selecting the `Hide unavailable colors` option.
* In the BrickLink catalog, part 99455 and many other EV3-specific pieces are set to a special `Not Applicable` color category. Studio doesn't have this N/A color category, so it thinks the part is not available in any color. Hence the warnings.

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Tags: ev3, piece-information, ldd, colour, bricklink-studio
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title: Instructions for fire rescue

text:
# Question
Title: Instructions for fire rescue
I have two sealed bags of LEGO, but I need to find the instructions. The minifigure is a yellow fire rescue guy with a red hat. It has 4 large wheels and 2 bendy yellow hoses. The second bag is a burning tree. I’m not positive they go together. It looks like too many pieces to be the ATV and not enough to be the fire truck, but I can’t find any other yellow fire rescue guys. Can anyone help me find the instructions?

# Answer
> 4 votes
Based on your description (two yellow flexible hoses, yellow minifig with red hat, burning tree) and after digging through bricklink sets (narrowing down the sets that have two yellow flex hoses), I'm fairly certain that you've got parts of 4209-1 Fire Plane:

Armed with that set number, it's trivial to find the instructions at https://www.lego.com/service/buildinginstructions/4209 .

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Can you help me identify this minifigure? masked face, green belt, black legs
I'm trying to identify this minifigure for my son. It came from a bundle of mixed sets. I initially thought it was from the Super Heroes theme, but I've checked all the Super Hero minifigures on BrickLink and been unable to match it. Note, the minifigure's torso is blank on the back. Thanks.

# Answer
The **head** is 3626cpb1091 AKA "Nightwing with red eyes". It only appears in one set, 76011-1 Man-Bat Attack:

---

The **torso** is 973pb0714c01 AKA "torso witch with green belt". It only appears in set 850487-1 "Halloween Accessory Set" and as a collectible minifigure from Series 2:

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The **legs** seem to be plain black legs, way too common to pinpoint their origin.
> 27 votes

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Tags: minifigures, minifigure-identification
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# Question
Title: How to create parts inventory for Rebrickable?
I have literally thousands of pieces of LEGO from our childhood. I have sorted them and now want to scan the pieces using an app like Brickit and then import them into Rebrickable.

Is this possible? How do you save the pieces in Brickit? Is there a better way?

# Answer
> 3 votes
If you don't have reduced your pieces to some known sets, then I'm afraid, you have a lot of manual labour to do in order to create your initial list of elements you own. One tool that could somewhat help with that is BrickStock.

This guide on Rebrickable explains how you can import your elements into inventory. If the app you use could create TXT/CSV file of all scanned elements (it would be best if identify and store part ID, rather than names), the following option available on Rebrickable could be used:

> Choose a file or external site to import from. You can manually create your own parts file if you like, the easiest is probably a CSV formatted file with appropriate headings. Rebrickable will automatically detect the columns as long as you use the correct headings (in any order): Part, Color, Quantity. For example:
>
> Part,Color,Quantity
>
> 3001,15,100
>
> 92947,0,100

Color IDs can be found on Rebrickable as well.

---
Tags: part-database, inventory
---


# Question
Title: EV3-G custom block crashes when Switch statement is copied
My team and I are trying to convert our coding framework made of myblocks into actual blocks. I made an application, that generates a "shell" of the block (the modes, and parameters). After this, we would copy our myblock's content to the VIX Editor. This works fine, except when it comes to switches. In that case, it crashes instantly. So instead, we tried using the default VIX switch (from the palette), but those don't support the wires we use to connect our blocks, and gives an error.

It says "There is no valid source wired to this tunnel"

This is my first question here, so I probably didn't provide enough information, please tell me what else should I provide. Thanks!

# Answer
> 2 votes
# So I ended up figuring out a solution:

First, I tried manually editing the vix file as a text file, and inserting this code.

Opening this file would crash the software.
**However, if you didn't open it, it would work fine on the EV3 brick!**
From this, I concluded, that the problem is with the EV3 vix editor.
But identifying the problem wasn't enough, I needed to find a solution.

After looking around the ev3 program files, I noticed that they use the exact same format as a vix file.
**Except this single line:**
Original:

```
<VirtualInstrument IsTopLevel="false" IsReentrant="false" Version="1.0.2.0" xmlns="http://www.ni.com/VirtualInstrument.xsd">

```

Changed:

```
<VirtualInstrument IsTopLevel="false" IsReentrant="false" Version="1.0.2.0" OverridingModelDefinitionType="X3VIDocument" xmlns="http://www.ni.com/VirtualInstrument.xsd">

```

Now, you can change this single line in your vix file, and the ev3g software will open it in the default editor. You can drag blocks, and also use the vix elements.
One disadvantage is that for some reason the vix terminals are invisible. But you can still select them, if you know where they are.

If you have any more questions, ask them in a comment, and I will answer.

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Tags: programming, ev3-g
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# Question
Title: EV3G Where can I find the .vix file for the low-level functions? (Set integer, IO operations, start block)
They look like this:

By default, when you refer to a vix file, it looks like this:

`<Reference Type="VILib" Name="TerminalTerminal.vix" />`

But, to refer to these low-level functions, you need to write:

`<Reference Name="X3.Lib:StartBlockTest" Type="VILib" SubType="StartBlock"/>`

Where can I find this "X3.Lib"?

Thanks in advance, Csabi

# Answer
> 3 votes
The LEGO *EV3 Block Developer Kit* documentation refers to these as "gray blobs". These are compiler intrinsics and don't have a .vix implementation. They generally correspond directly to the bytecodes from the *EV3 Firmware Developer Kit*.

---

Note: Developer kits are available on the official LEGO MINDSTORMS download page.

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Tags: programming, software, ev3-g
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# Question
Title: Converting a .ev3p file into a .ev3 project file
How do I convert a `.ev3p` file into a `.ev3` project file? Everytime I click on the `.ev3p` file to open it, it just turns up as text in the notepad.

# Answer
> 2 votes
As mentioned by others, you can't convert the ev3p file to an ev3 file. However, you can put your ev3p file into a zip, then rename the extension to .ev3s After this, you can create a new project, and from the settings tab, import your ev3s file.

Hope this helps!

# Answer
> 0 votes
Actually, you **can't** convert a `.ev3p` file into a `.ev3` file. Based on this post and other ones here's what a `.ev3p` file *really* is:

> When you unzip a `.ev3` program, there are many `txt` and `xml` files that are inside. In particular, there is an `xml` file produced with the filename extension `.ev3p`, which contains program instructions that the EV3 brick can then interpret and execute.

So now we can conclude that a `.ev3p` file is only **a certain part** of the `.ev3` file.

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Tags: ev3
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# Question
Title: What files are required to run an ev3 program?
I'm working on a project that aims to help beginning Lego Mindstorms programmers. I'm developing certain "modules" (moving straight, making a turn) for students to try, and I want to develop a program that can pull an .ev3 file, unzip the .ev3 to reveal its files, and analyze any of these files that are useful in determining "module" correctness. After unzipping a typical MyProgram.ev3 file, I find:

* `___CopyrightYear` (txt)
* `___ProjectTitle` (txt)
* `Activity.x3a` (xml)
* `ActivityAssets.laz` (I've read that this is a compressed folder, but I am unable to unzip this)
* `Program.ev3p` (xml)
* `Project.lvprojx` (xml)

Only one of these file (`Program.ev3p`) seems to contain information about the actual instructions of the EV3 program. Does the EV3 brick interpret this file to execute the program instructions? Is there any other program information in the mentioned files that I am missing?

# Answer
> 3 votes
The titles headed with underscores are unneeded. The title is not necessarily required, and the copyright is obviously useless to the machine.

However, none of the other files can be skipped or removed and still allow the program to work.

These others are written in XML, Extensible Markup Language, and are designed for use by both human and machine. The microcontroller needs all the information in these files.

# Answer
> 3 votes
There is a website, that may help you: https://ev3treevis.azurewebsites.net/Default.aspx

This site enables you to view the programs, and even edit them on a text-based interface!

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Tags: mindstorms, ev3
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# Question
Title: LEGO elements working with capacitive touchscreens?
Ultra Agent sets released in 2015 feature an interesting type of brick, which is called AppBrick (LEGO marketing name) or Brick, Modified 1 x 1 with Stud on Side and Conductive Element on Opposite Side (AppBrick) on Bricklink:

This is how LEGO describes it in the AntiMatter's Portal Hideout (70172) set:

> Build your AppBrick Gadget included in this set and play out cool missions on your tablet

Basically you build a small model with a few elements and put it on the screen (of the phone/tablet) to interact with a dedicated app as shown in the instructions:

This brick is made of some new material, which is of conductive plastic and it works with capacitive touchscreens. That is, you can control whatever you wish on your phone/tablet screen using this brick with your hands without your fingers actually touching the screen. This is a pretty cool feature. However, even though this element has a useful stud with a hole on the backside, usage of this element is rather limited. I wonder if more LEGO elements exist featuring the same properties?

# Answer
Any metallic or metal coated parts (spoon, aluminium foil, pen) should be usable with a contemporary touchscreen, although proper touch recognition still requires a human (or an equivalent capacitor) to touch the conductive surface. Therefore theoretically any of these official LEGO parts with exposed metallic surfaces (or similar ones) should function, although the ergonomics, user experience and building possibilities might not be the best :)

---

Note, be wary of scratches on the screen and of magnetic intereference (when using magnets) to a smart device's compass. Additionally if the part has too little area of contact to the screen the touch recognition might not work (try touching one prong of a fork to a screen) - but this sensitivity might be configurable for application developers.

The official touch-enabled brick solves all of these problems by being made of a softer material than most everyday metals, having no magnetic field of its own and offering a touch area comparable to that of a finger, but of the above list, the metal ball comes the closest (as rolling should reduce scratches).
> 3 votes

# Answer
BrickLink only has that one match for *conductive*, so I'm guessing that's it.
> 3 votes

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Tags: piece-information, plastics
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title: EV3 software with large blocks

text:
# Question
Title: EV3 software with large blocks
I can't seem to find a download for home or education version of EV3 software that has the large white blocks for either macos 10.13 or 10.15 on my imac. Can someone help?

I currently have that version on ipad but imac version Home 1.3.0 is slender blocks and not as cool. This is for the ev3 education kit.

# Answer
https://www.lego.com/en-us/themes/mindstorms/downloads

Scroll a bit down and you'll find two apple icons.

The left one will work for macOS 10.15 (Catalina) or newer, and is with what you describe slender blocks. It's similar to the Scratch educational programming environment. The software is "pre-release" so might still have some kinks in it.

The right one is the older software with the blocks you are used to. HOWEVER it will NOT work on macOS 10.15 or later.

Rather than porting their existing application to 10.15, LEGO has decided to spend their resources on the new app. Unfortunate decision in my opinion.
> 2 votes

# Answer
You can download the Home edition of the retired software for MacOS 10.13 here: Home edition (It will also work with education edition)
> 1 votes

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms
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# Question
Title: What did I buy? non-Lego minifigures, in green
I bought this bag of figures today and have no clue what they are, or why I bought them for that matter.

12 "Men figurines", each individually wrapped. Appears that they are all different.

Are they Lego? Something else?

# Answer
> 9 votes
These are from Wuhui ( or Wuhui mall)

* WUHUI 12PCS SWAT Military Army WW2 Minifigures Toy Building Kit

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Tags: set-identification, minifigures, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: What is this minifig? Female brown hi-viz overalls
Can you identify this Minifig?

# Answer
That's from set 75828-1 "Ecto 1&2", part of the Ghostbusters (2016) movie franchise.

In particular, the minifig in question is gb016 "Erin Gilbert", depicting the homonymous movie character

Judging by the neck collar, your minifig seems to have some parts of the proton pack still attached, but not the entire assembly.
> 6 votes

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Tags: minifigure-identification
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# Question
Title: Can you identify this Minifig? Transparent skeleton with red extremities
Can you identify this Minifig?

# Answer
Same as in OP's other minifig identification question, the answer lies within set 75828-1 "Ecto 1&2".

The minifig is gb020 "Mayhem". If I remember the movie correctly, this is the ghost that interrupts the rock concert.
> 8 votes

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Tags: minifigure-identification
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title: What minifigs are these three?

text:
# Question
Title: What minifigs are these three?
Could you help identifying these 3 minifigures?

# Answer
First one is loc111 "Sykor" from the Legends of Chima line, albeit with a different helmet (I'm guessing part 30171 "aviator cap" in black):

---

Second one is col186 "Prospector" from series 12 collectible minifigures, albeit with a red scarf (part 30133) instead of beard, and different head (part 3626cpb0798 "Head Male White and Gray Bushy Eyebrows") and hair (part 62810 "Hair short tousled", I guess?).

---

Third one is tlm046 "RoboSWAT with helmet", which appears in three sets in the Lego Movie line:
> 5 votes

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Tags: minifigure-identification
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title: Can you identify these 4 minifigs?

text:
# Question
Title: Can you identify these 4 minifigs?
Please help me identify these last 4 minifigs.

# Answer
> 9 votes
First is sw0603 "Shadow stormtrooper", with Lord Business' hair (from The Lego Movie).

Second one is sw0258 "Hoth officer", possibly with a different head.

Third one is loc002 "Razcal from the Legends of Chima line.

Fourth one is sw0581 "AT-AT driver".

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Tags: minifigure-identification
---


# Question
Title: Help Identifying Parts Bags - Technic with a lot of different colors
Can anyone figure out what set these two unopened bags belong to? The loose parts were in a ziplock bag along with the unopened so they MIGHT be part of the same set.

# Answer
> 6 votes
All of the pictured polybags show these bricks are part of the same set - BOOST Creative Toolbox (17101)

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: How do I remove this piece when the other side is obstructed?
I bought and constructed the Millenium Falcon 75192.

Now, I'm breaking it apart for storage. I just don't know how to remove the black piece below (the same as the alone one but in the structure) without applying an insane pressure that I fear might destroy the piece. Usually I just use other pieces to push it out from behind, but in this case, the backside is obstructed by another piece behind, and every piece is stuck because of that one piece I can't remove.

Edit: I forgot to mention that I tried using the thin part of the orange piece to unclip bricks, but I just can't use it in this case: it simply doesn't work as it's too thick.

# Answer
Well, half a pin is still present on the back side, so it isn't that bad. Things I would try:

1. Wiggle and pull out the part in question as-is, since pin slots are parallel to the part itself it could be possible to pull out the part ever slightly to make the rest of the job easy. If you find it hard to grab/wiggle the part try attaching something to an available pin hole - like a pin and some connector, to make some sort of lever.
2. Use some long and narrow non-LEGO item and push the part from the back. Since you'd be pushing against a back wall of a pin hole there won't be much damage visible even if you use brute force with sharp object like needle. And since this a Technic element, which tend to be made of a slightly harder plastic than usual bricks, there is low chance of damaging it even with sharp object.
3. As least favorite option I'd try using something flat and sharp between L-shaped brick and element you wish to remove. While it is possible to complete this action without damaging any of bricks this option has the highest chance of leaving some marks.
> 5 votes

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Tags: disassembly, piece-usage
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title: EV3 manual recording for displacement

text:
# Question
Title: EV3 manual recording for displacement
So I'm doing this project using an EV3, here are the tasks of the project:

* We have to save the path that the robot will take manually ( we will move the robot by hand and it'll save the movements) so we can run it again automatically
* We want the robot so save the map of the room that we move it in

I'm confused about how to do that exactly, any help would be appreciated!

# Answer
> 7 votes
If your robot has wheels, then measure or calculate the circumference of the wheels. Then you just have to count the rotations of the axle and multiply by the circumference to get the total travelled distance.

I'm deliberately only giving pointers instead of solutions, since if it's a project with tasks, then you are supposed to learn about it - if you're still stuck, tell us where and how, so we can give you further tips and pointers to help you learn.

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Tags: ev3, python
---


# Question
Title: Finding the angle for an isosceles triangle roof
I am using clips to make a roof shaped like an isosceles triangle.

This feels like one of those things that would be trivial with physical LEGO bricks, but it is near impossible with Stud.io.

How can I calculate the angle that the roof needs to be at for the clip to hold the bar piece?

# Answer
You are trying to assemble a triangle with inclined parts of 8 units in length and horizontal line is 7 units. The rest is math:

`∠α = cos⁻¹(3,5÷8) = 64.0555°`

Due to slight imperfection in LEGO assembly you can easily take a value of 64° for one side and 296° (you were close!) for another.

I did a mock-up in LDCad and proved that it works with angle of 64°, as you can clearly see below:
> 11 votes

# Answer
To get the exact answer, this is what high school geometry and trig is useful for in the real world :)

Alternatively, switch off collision detection and just try changing the angles in small increments (e.g. 1 degree) until it looks right. Type the angle into the box shown in the picture, don't try to rotate the parts with the mouse.

Then switch collision detection on again to check if you were close enough.
> 4 votes

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Tags: angles
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title: Which part is this round window frame?

text:
# Question
Title: Which part is this round window frame?
Please identify the round white semi-circle piece in this window. It kind of looks like a mudflap, but I think it's bigger.

# Answer
> 9 votes
It looks like a Wheel Arch (mudguard) piece, #50745

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: How can I extract a metal axle from a plastic wheel without damaging them?
I have Plate, Modified 2 x 2 with Wheels Red with metal axles that have developed rust and I need to sanitise them, as I have rust even on the plastic pieces

This is an example of wheels I need to disassemble:

Before trying more things and avoid breaking them, I would like to know if is it possible to extract the axles with no damage (the axles are inserted by pressure) or are they glued and should try to clean the rust without disassembly

# Answer
> 6 votes
From accidentally destroying some older wheels (decades on a sunny windowsill can make red parts brittle), I think you're out of luck.

The ends of the metal axles I've seen have had splines formed into them, then as far as I can see the plastic is moulded over the top. To see what I mean, imagine something like 32209 Technic Axle 5.5L with Stop, then covering the end with the stop with modelling clay - you won't get the clay off in one piece.

The good news is that ABS (the plastic used in most Lego parts) has good resistance to oxalic acid and you can get rust removers based on oxalic acid (some advice here). It might turn the steel black; I know phosphoric acid does. Note that phosphoric acid, citric acid, and acetic acid\* aren't good for ABS, ruling out many commercial rust-removers and home-made recipes. There's always a chance of damage, but less so than trying to get the assembly apart.

I tried an experiment. After about an hour and a half in vinegar, the plastic was unaffected, but the rust hadn't reduced, so you may need something stronger.

But before I put the assembly into the vinegar I noticed one of the wheels was cracked (actually both now I look at the photo!), so I risked prising it off. After scrubbing some rust off using steel wool you can see the groove in the axle where the plastic is moulded to grip it (red arrow), confirming that it's not coming off without damage. I was slightly wrong though - this part isn't splined, presumably because it doesn't matter if the wheel slips round the axle.

If you insist on disassembly, applying enough heat to just the axle will soften the plastic touching it, allowing you to pull it out. Reassembly would need glue. But I think (from memory, bricklink doesn't have a picture of the underside) you couldn't heat the axle without melting the plate.

---

* From the source I used, 20% acetic acid is bad, but vinegar (4-8% acetic acid) is good. Whether the soaking time to remove the rust is long enough to cause problems for the plastic would require an experiment.

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Tags: disassembly, wheel
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# Question
Title: Can I share/download a wishlist on Bricklink?
I have a whole set in a wishlist in BrickLink and I would like to share it with some friends.

Can I either:

* Share the list via BrickLink so they can use it directly.
* Download it in XML so they can upload it to their wishlist.

If I can do them, how? If I can't, any alternatives?

# Answer
Time have passed and things got changed on Bricklink. You can now open you wanted list on Bricklink and hit "Download" button as pictured below to get XML file that you can share.
> 4 votes

# Answer
There is no built-in way to download the Bricklink wanted lists. However, there is a userscript that should work for this.

DISCLAIMER: Use at your own risk. YMMV.

http://userscripts-mirror.org/scripts/show/167618

Firefox with Greasemonkey is the way I use other user scripts, but I wasn't able to get this working with Firefox. I was able to get it working with Chrome and Tampermonkey.

You'll want to make sure you read the description in the link above, and pay attention to the tips they recommend like increasing the number of items per page so you capture everything.
> 4 votes

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Tags: bricklink
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# Question
Title: What is the best way to exhibit extra large sets, like Taj Mahal?
Before buying our dream set (Taj Mahal) we are wondering with my Wife how to exhibit it properly? The set is much larger than any other construction we have (23.03x19.29x7.48 inches) and will not fit any furniture we used before for exposition.

We are wondering, what would be the best way to exhibit such large sets, so that they are simultaneously visible and safe? Should one use large glass display cases or some other solutions? I would be grateful for photos of inspiration. Should we buy some generic furniture, or custom made, or could we make it ourselves?

Certainly we would like to protect it against dust. White bricks yellows when exposed to UV light for a long period of time, at least those old one, I don't have long enough experience with the newer ones. Is the Taj Mahal prone to yellowing?

# Answer
> 6 votes
Disclaimer: I don't own the set in question and I'm not affiliated with anyone selling products mentioned below.

Searching in Google for "lego taj mahal acrylic cover" reveals a staggering selection of acrylic dust covers clearly intended for this specific model. Judging by the supply side I can only conclude that the demand side of the market must be equally large then. Which means many people use such a cover to both display and protect their Taj Mahal, just like you wish to do.

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Tags: storage, safety, preservation
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title: Minimal mine track

text:
# Question
Title: Minimal mine track
I want to create a mine scene on a 32x32 baseplate. I want to run a train track across the front, and then about 12 studs into the mine. Then, I want to build a couple simple mining carts on the tracks. I'm not very familiar with the tracks pieces. Can someone help me plan the pieces I'll need for this?

# Answer
> 10 votes
I think you want to consider using the 4-stud-wide "rollercoaster" tracks, part numbers 25059, 25061 and 26022.

Here's how those to parts look like in set 60228:

The straight track are 8 or 16 studs long, and the 90° curved track has a radius of 12 studs (counted from the track centerline). These dimensions allow for a few track pieces to be placed in a 32x32 baseplate comfortably.You can fit a "L" made of one 90° curved track and two lengths of straight tracks (16 studs long each) into a 32x32 baseplate, leaving a margin of 2 studs.

This quick-and-dirty LeoCAD diagram should help convey the idea:

Also note that part 85976 "Train, Track Plastic, Narrow, Curve" does exist, and is also 4 studs wide. However, there is no (official) corresponding flat straight part, and the curve radius is wider (24 studs). You can fit two such track parts in a 32x32 baseplate, but beware of the half-a-stud-long connectors at the end of each track piece, which might overhang:

For the carts I guess you'll want to use parts 50254 "Train Wheel Small" and 4600 "Modified 2x2 Plate with Wheels Holder" or the roller coaster car assembly made up of 26061 "Roller Coaster Car Base" and 24869 "Roller Coaster Wheels".

The later is the technique used in set 60188 "Mining experts site", altough the result doesn't look "minecarty" enough to me since the wheels themselves are obscured from view:

# Answer
> 6 votes
There have already been a few older sets containing pre-made mine carts or similar constructions with tracks besides the currently used style mentioned by IvanSanchez, take a look at how they were implemented:

1. Indiana Jones and The Temple of Doom (7199):

2. The Dynamic Duo Funhouse Escape (6857):
3. Amusement Park Roller Coaster (41130):
4. Silver Mine Shootout (79110):
5. The Mine (4204), using different parts:
6. Dwarves' Mine (7036):
7. The Mine (21118), not rolling:
8. The Precious Crystal Mine (41177), also not rolling:
9. The Creeper Mine (21155), another style of non-rolling implementation with decorative "wheels":
10. Bandit's Secret Hide-Out (6761), rather a cannon on tracks than a minecart, but could be adapted:

---

The relevant parts from the Silver Mine set, added based on the request for clarification:

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Tags: building, trains, piece-usage
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# Question
Title: Alternative ways of attaching roller coaster wheels
While doing a bit of research about a mine track related question, I noticed that part 24869 "Wheel Roller Coaster" is meant to be used only with part 26021 to form a form a specific assembly:

I personally don't like the aesthetics of the car base, so I'm wondering about how to use the wheels without the car base. The axle has the same dimensions of a bar, so it can be used with clip plates or minifig hands:

...but that will obviously have a lot of friction.

What building techniques and parts can be used to attach the roller coaster wheels (or, for that matter, any other bar part) to other parts **with low enough friction**?

I'm looking for techniques for play (i.e. the vehicle should move along tracks and hold together when shaken), not for display (which can be achieved by high-friction clips).

# Answer
Just like the other answer by @matthew jensen, I do not have the roller coaster wheels in my possession, so my answer is entirely based on what seems to work in Stud.io.

It looks like you can construct a basic wheelholder using part 3176 - Plate 2x3 with Hole. Here is how I would do this:

I am using 2 small 1x2 - 1x2 inverted brackets and a 2x3 plate in the above.

Here is how you would use the same (replacing the 2x3 plate with a 3x3 plate) to create a small minecart that (hopefully) rolls along the track. If a 5 stud wheelbase is too long to make it through LEGO rollercoaster track curves, you can shorten the build by 1 or 2 studs.
> 4 votes

# Answer
Disclaimer: I don't have the roller coaster wheels or body, and have not tried this.

The Skateboard with mag wheels comes to mind, as an example of a bar connection with little friction.

If I remember correctly, the wheel bars are of normal diameter (regular clips have normal friction), so it is the board clips which are slightly larger than a regular clip.
> 5 votes

# Answer
The diameter of a bar (i.e. the axle) is the same as the distance between two studs. This can be leveraged in a variety of ways using hollow studs and bars.

This uses upside-down 85861 1x1 round plates and short bar parts (48729):

The hollow studs can be moved up and down in order to adjust the friction.

Same technique, using 3959 Minifig Utensil, Torch and 11203 2x2 inverted tile:

The friction on the axle will depend on how deep the torch is pushed into the inverted tile.

A few 2555 1x1 tile with clip and an upside-down 4238 trunk lid (from the silver mine set), and we've got ourselves a minecart:
> 4 votes

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Tags: building, piece-usage, snot
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title: Recent change in Pearl Gold colour?

text:
# Question
Title: Recent change in Pearl Gold colour?
I just received a Bricklink delivery with pearl gold pieces (see right-hand side in the image). This colour is less shiny and has less of the pearl effect that I used to expect so far (left-hand side, parts from an older set). Did I miss anything about a change in the colour? Or is this part of the (nowadays) normal colour variation?

# Answer
> 6 votes
Metallic plastic is always tricky, especially when dealing with acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS for short). The granules (small plastic pellets) for the metallics are really sensitive to light and time, and the process can alter over time.

The stronger colors (ie. the base chromatics) are easy to get right since the granules are all from the same source and designed for that specific color. Where some of the more "exotic" colors, a mix of granules are being used, and that can be tricky.

So the process that a batch of pieces from 2018 and the same pieces molded in say 2020 might have some coloration differences, and it is a heck of a job to keep track of.

Even without direct changes in the formula, a slight change over time can happen. If this makes the pieces unwanted for you, I would reckon you can argue with Bricklink for a refund, but I would not bet that they can do much for you.

A similar case of this can be seen below, both certified pearl gold bricks, molded two years apart:

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Tags: colour
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# Question
Title: Can anyone identify this Hasbro part? 2x2 circle with a ball on a short bar
Description: A 2x2 round tile with a ball sticking out in the middle of it, the ball being slightly smaller than a LEGO axle with ball. I’ve searched Bricklink extensively before, and the brick has Hasbro written on it, which has led me to believe it is a Kre-O brick of some kind.

# Answer
This is the **KRE-O 10162**, which first appeared in a blue version from the early version of KRE-O Transformers Optimus Prime Dino Hauler, working as a ball for the midsection of the truck. Sadly, this has later been altered to be black.

White and gray versions can be found below: USS Missouri: https://www.hasbro.com/common/documents/6d0a17b55056900b100f781b9c2c69e3/0A1109CC5056900B103B5B36EBB8C6D3.pdf

Stealth Bumblebee: https://www.hasbro.com/common/documents/6d0a17b55056900b100f781b9c2c69e3/F0B345F05056900B10DF528BB37A0AB9.pdf

I'm having trouble discerning from your photo if the piece is gray, blue, or white, but my guess is that yours is from the USS Missouri.
> 6 votes

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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title: Help identifying likely Star Wars Set

text:
# Question
Title: Help identifying likely Star Wars Set
I bought some LEGO in bulk and would love some help identifying what ship/craft these pieces might belong to. Any help is appreciated!

# Answer
> 11 votes
That's part x1435 Flag 5x6 Hexagonal. In colour Dark Red it appears in four Star Wars sets, but only one of them has the stickers: set 75135-1 Obi-Wan's Jedi Interceptor.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Step 160 on Carousel 10257, white hinges not connecting?
I'm struggling with step 160 where I use white "hinge" connectors to connect the carousel platform sections. It seems to create too much pressure and the platform breaks apart. Grateful for any tips.

# Answer
There should be **no pressure** on any segment at this step. I fear as some people have commented that something is wrong with either the assembly or perhaps the manufacturing of the parts.

*But*, seeing as it sounds like this occurs with any of the 12 pieces, and it would be unrealistic to assume that all twelve hinges are malformed.

My guess is that the "underbelly" is set together in the wrong configuration, so I would inspect them all to check if they are all identical (in pairs ofc) and matches the guide. If assembly as you describe is possible but breaks, its possible that one of then are oversized.
> 2 votes

# Answer
I would go back and check just to make sure that you have done the last **few** steps right. If you still can't figure it out, look on either YouTube or Google and type "LEGO 10257 Carousel Not Working correctly". If there is nothing there, contact LEGO Customer Service and ask for help. Good Luck!
> 0 votes

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Tags: building, sets
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# Question
Title: Is it possible to use EV3 MicroPython with Windows 7?
I have been trying to get python on my EV3 brick using an EV3 MicroPython SD card image as described on the Lego website. The EV3 brick seem fine with its new OS.

Instead my problems are at the computer end. When connecting the EV3 to my PC by USB cable and the Visual Studio Code editor (as prescribed by the Lego documentation) I can find and connect to the EV3 brick. But as soon as I try to actually do something with the connected device I get a blue screen of death.

According to the Lego homepage the systems requirements for EV3 MicroPython is Windows 10. I use Windows 7 on my computer which by itself should explain the problems. Nevertheless my question is if this seems plausible? Have others had the same problem? Is there any other way to use Python programming on my EV3 brick without having to change OS on my computers?

# Answer
The official answer is **NO**.

EV3 Python only supports Windows 10 or version 1803 or newer. The page from the Documentation listing the system requirements are linked below:

EV3 Documentation - Minimum system requirements

That being said, there might be some trick to still getting it to work, but this is outside the supported scope.

Everything hinges on the **EV3 MicroPython extension**, and without it, you might be able to detect, but not use the EV3 block.

The blue screen of death seems like a bit of an overreaction, so some troubleshooting would not go amiss there, but using 3rd party extensions in an unsupported capacity can lead to hazardous results.
> 2 votes

# Answer
Sadly no! The EV3 software does not support Windows 7 or Windows 8. Because of how long ago Windows 7 was made, and the time EV3 was made, it simply cannot support it.

Or maybe *it is* your fault. The USB cord might be damaged or something, we don't know.
> 0 votes

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Tags: ev3, software, python
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title: PC To NXT Brick via Bluetooth

text:
# Question
Title: PC To NXT Brick via Bluetooth
We have a fully working java program that can connect to another computer and can send messages from this (both sides run java and we used SPP Server and Client).

However, when trying to connect to the NXT Brick and send a message via Bluetooth, we are able to pair with the brick and send a message but we have no idea if the NXT receives it.

When we tried to use Java SPPClient on the computer(we provide the ServerURL of NXT to java program) to send the message to NXT Brick running the RobotC, it doesn't work. On the java side, this error is given:

> Failed to connect; \[10064\] A socket operation failed because the destination host was down.

Using RobotC the brick is waiting for a message to be sent and it is awaiting 3 integers to help the robot move.

# Answer
Have you updated the firmware? That may be a problem but it also may be that there is an error connecting using Bluetooth. “Destination host was down” means that the coding platform could not connect to the NXT.
> 1 votes

# Answer
I have a strong suspicion that your COM3 is connected to BlueTooth so your Python program can't connect.

I would go through the information in the NXT Bluetooth Developer Kit (available from the LEGO MINDSTORMS download page) to troubleshoot the process.

Beyond that, this sounds like a potential general BlueTooth issue, and not directly related to the NXT brick.

In the worst case, there might be a hardware issue with the brick itself. Lending another NXT brick and checking if it gives a different result should answer that question.
> 0 votes

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Tags: nxt, bluetooth, robotc
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# Question
Title: Where does the EV3 software store its crash reports?
I cannot find where the crash reports generated by my EV3 software are stored. I have looked where it tells me to, but I can't find any.

# Answer
The location of the crash logs would depend on the system you are using. I have mapped out the three candidates below:

If you are using the classic **LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 Education** software:

* Open your existing or a new experiment.
* Go to the *Tools* menu and select *Data Log File Manager*.
* Browse to the `.rdf` file and click the *Import* button. (It can be on the brick or on your computer.)
* If the directory is empty, there are no crash logs (yet)

If you are using **EV3 Python**, you are running through Visual Studio Code, and the crash handling will be done by VS.

On Windows, this would make the crash logs appear under `%AppData%\Microsoft\VisualStudio\`

If you are using **EV3 Classroom**

On Windows, this would make the crash logs appear under `%AppData%\LEGO\Mindstorms\Logs\`

On OSX, you can look for them at `/Applications/LEGO\MINDSTORMS\EV3\Home\Edition.app/Contents/MacOS/MindstormsEV3`

If you are using **some third party program**, the program provider should be able to advise you where logs are stored.
> 2 votes

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Tags: ev3, software
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# Question
Title: What is this round part with Technic holes in the middle?
Can someone please tell me what this part is called? I'm looking for what kinds of sets it may have been used in.

# Answer
> 8 votes
This is Wheel Hard Plastic with Small Cleats and Flanges (64712). This element in Olive Green color was part of a single set. While Black colored one was included in 18 sets.

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Tags: part-identification
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title: Parts on "The Crypt Ghost"

text:
# Question
Title: Parts on "The Crypt Ghost"
Please identify the curved pieces at the top frame of each segment of The Crypt Ghost. (Are these dinosaur tails). What about the multi-faceted pieces making up the tops and bottom of each grave?

# Answer
As far as I can tell, each arch half is made out of:

There *might* be a 25269 1x1 round tile, quarter between the 1x2 plate and the plant stem, but it's a bit difficult to tell.

The piece used for the sarcophagi is 47757 Wedge 4x4 Pyramid Center.
> 5 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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title: Colour matching LEGO colours with paint

text:
# Question
Title: Colour matching LEGO colours with paint
In the past, people worked out how to match Tamiya paints to LEGO colours, but it requires a tool that no longer exists on the internet. I am currently trying to find either a way of matching paint to LEGO in general or a paint that matches Dark Bluish Grey

# Answer
You can get paint colour-matched, either automotive (good for metal and some plastics) or domestic (for walls, wood, possibly also metal). It's not cheap though.

Look for "paint match service", and find one where you actually take in a sample. The sheen won't be a perfect match, though there may be a choice, and lighting can bring out differences (e.g. if you're painting a large background to match a display.

Alternatively, and quite possibly close enough, there are places with a very wide range of stock colours of car paint. You may have to buy the two or three closest and test on your chosen substrate or something similar; this could still be cheaper, and may be more appropriate given that your mention of Tamiya paints implies small quantities
> 4 votes

# Answer
There are a few specialist paint suppliers that claim to offer the full range of Pantone® colours, for example in the UK you get a 30ml sample pot of 431-C for about £5 from Riolet Custom Aerosols.

Note that there appears to be some disagreement over which Pantone colour matches which LEGO colour, and indeed some disagreement over which hex colour matches which LEGO or Pantone colour...

So somewhere between Pantone 431 and Pantone Cool Grey 10 is probably LEGO Dark Blueish Grey.
> 2 votes

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Tags: colour
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# Question
Title: What is inside the LEGO Powered Up L motor?
What's inside the Powered Up L motor (part bb0959c01)?

How do its internals compare to the XL motor and the M motor?

# Answer
This motor was not easy to take apart. Unlike some of the others that have screws or clips that can be released, I wasn't able to get into this one without basically cutting it in half. If you need to repair one of these, it is possible to get it apart and put it back together, but I believe that glue would need to be involved to hold it securely together again.

Here's what it looks like once you get the front cover off:

This is very similar internally to the linear motor, but the internal gearbox is longer to accommodate the rotation sensor.

Here it is from the top:

Here's a shot from the bottom showing the board:

We can see similar control circuitry to other PU motors with rotation sensors. Here's what the board looks like from the top with the gearbox removed:

The visible chip interacts with the black ring in the gearbox to sense rotation.

The gearbox itself is a double planetary system similar to what is found in other motors:

Here's the final output with the black ring that interacts with the sensor:
> 5 votes

# Answer
Here is a related video: What is inside a Powered Up Large Motor

The video shows how the motor is being opened. There are no screws or tabs to do this. So, I have to use a knife and a Philips screwdriver. The result is - the cover of the motor was damaged and broken.

The objective of this mission was to check what is wrong with the motor since it could not be detected by the Powered Up control/battery hub.

But then, I found out all the parts or components were in order - the soldering was OK, and nothing unusual with the connectivity and features.

So, my guess is- the circuit or chip on the PCB is faulty. This is beyond the capability of people without electronic knowledge (like me) to handle it.

Thus, the overall objective of this video is to show what is inside the Large Powered Up motor.

Interesting to note that, there are 2 planetary gears and a rotation sensor. This is why this motor can provide data on its orientation.

This is the photo of the motor -
> 3 votes

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Tags: piece-information, motor, electronics, powered-up, disassembly
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title: Help identifying minifigure torsos

text:
# Question
Title: Help identifying minifigure torsos
Was unable to identify these in Bricklink and goatleg. Can anyone identify any of these?

Note that heads, arms, legs could mismatch. They all have the Lego logo on the neck stud.

# Answer
The leftmost one is Black Widow - Black Hands from 6869 Quinjet Aerial Battle:

The second has a pair of generic grey legs and the torso of Snake Oiler:

The middle one has the legs of Blackbeard from the Pirates of the Caribbean:

And the torso of Hector Barbossa:

The fourth one is Dengar from Star Wars with different hands:

The rightmost one has the torso of the Porsche 911 Turbo 3.0 Driver:
> 10 votes

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Tags: minifigure-identification
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# Question
Title: EV3 screen either flickering or blank, what do I do?
The screen on my LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 brick has just stopped working. It is blank. I have tried turning it on and off, installed fresh batteries, and I can even hear the selection sounds. Additionally, it responds regularly when I connect it to my computer. I've had my NXT for three-and-a-half years, so it's not new. Is there an easy/feasible way to fix it, or a cheap way to get it replaced?

# Answer
Well by what I know it sounds pretty old so I suppose you might have to buy a new one. Sorry if this does not help you.
> 0 votes

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Tags: ev3
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# Question
Title: Is there any legal LEGO compatible bricks?
I have found out that there are many so called LEGO compatible bricks. But are those bricks legal in the sense that they are not copy cat of original LEGO.

If there are such bricks - what are they ?

# Answer
> 18 votes
All LEGO compatible bricks are legal. At this point LEGO no longer has a patent on the key features of the LEGO system regarding shape, measurements and connectivity.

This doesn’t hold true for minifigures, those are still trademarked.

Where things get ugly is with the design of sets, and the overall look and feel of LEGO packaging and the LEGO logo. Not to mention the licensing of outside IP such as Star Wars, Harry Potter, Marvel etc. This is why clone companies such as Mega Construx, Kreo and Cobi who make their own designs and work out their own IP licensing deals when needed are considered “legal”, where other companies such as the majority of the Chinese clones who gave us gems like “Star Wnrs” are not considered legal.

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Tags: clone-brands, lego-group
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title: Part identification - (handle crank?)

text:
# Question
Title: Part identification - (handle crank?)
Please help me identify this part. (Both pictures are the same piece, just in different angles)

Reverse image search does not help unfortunately.

P.s.: Please excuse the unprofessional title, I don't know too much about part names- but I want to build something for a Lego fan I love :)

# Answer
> 13 votes
Bricklink calls this piece Minifigure, Utensil Paint Roller Brush Handle. And its "part number" is 12885 or 34076.

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Tags: part-identification
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title: Question about Batmobile 76139 build

text:
# Question
Title: Question about Batmobile 76139 build
What's the purpose of the hinge plates in Step 133?

I ask because it got in the way when installing the side sections in Steps 222 and 231. I simply pushed it out of the way and everything was OK. However, I cannot see what it is used for in subsequent steps. I am worried I may have missed something and have to go back.

# Answer
> 6 votes
As far as I can tell from the instructions alone (available at this 197MiB PDF from LEGO support), the purpose of those particular hinge plates is to serve as **bottom** support of the 1x12 technic bricks introduced in step 214 (and its symmetrical counterpart in 223). Let me try to illustrate:

So when the subassembly from steps 214-221 is attached, things should look like...

(Idem for the symmetrical counterpart)

In other words: the 1x12 beam should be supported by *three* hinge plates: two at the top, and one at the bottom. The bottom one is introduced in step 133.

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Tags: building, instructions
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# Question
Title: Unknown set bags - long yellow plate, lots of brown
I have 2 bags that are not opened and I am unsure what set they are from, they could be the same set but I am unsure.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

* Bag 1 looks to have an orange wing and a purple disc in the bag.
* Bag 5 looks to have a wheel axel and a 16x2 long yellow piece.

# Answer
In the bag marked "5" I can peek:

There are no (known) sets containing both those bricks.

The bag marked "1" has a dark orange tail shuttle **with sticker applied** (making it 6239pb067). Note that there exists a sticker sheet for the only set featuring that tail part.

My guess therefore is: those bags have been opened before, filled with parts from several sets, and possibly have been resealed.
> 6 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Is there any website or youtuber that can help me improve my building skills?
I joined the robotics team in my school and I find it really hard to cope with my friends when building. I need to improve my building skills before returning back to school.

Is there any website or youtuber that can help me improve my building skills?

# Answer
> 4 votes
I'm unsure if you are trying to improve your general building skills or specific ev3. In case you are looking for tutorials on general building techniques http://www.brickbuilt.org/?cat=77 has a list of some tutorials. This site also features pictures of creations other people have made.

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Tags: ev3
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# Question
Title: Built part of LEGO set - reds and greys and blacks and a computer screen
Any ideas on what this is part of please? Thanks for your help as always.

# Answer
> 12 votes
After having a good look at sets with 2x2 dark red curved slopes, I'm certain that you have parts from Star Wars Battlefront set 75134-1 Galactic Empire Battle Pack, specificaly parts of the... I guess we could call this a "gun platform"?:

Note the top-right of the image: bley 1x2 printed tile, dark red 2x2 curved slopes, dark bley hinges.

(As @RSchulz has already pointed out, the 2x2 tile with clip and sticker comes from a different set.)

# Answer
> 9 votes
Part Road Sign 2 x 2 Square with Open O Clip with Computer Screen with White, Red and Black Lines Pattern (Sticker) only appears in set 76051 **Super Hero Airport Battle**.

But that set doesn't seem to have the red curved slope or the 1x2 printed tile from the first few images, so I'm guessing there's more than one set involved.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: What is this right angled piece with clip and how can it be used?
What element is this? What can it be used for?

# Answer
> 9 votes
The piece is 72869 Bar Holder with Clip and 90° Angle (Mechanical Leg)

It's a new part for 2021, and as the name implies, one of it's main uses is as a leg on various creatures. It seems especially well-suited for building spiders:

It hasn't had many other official uses to date, but it does get used as a robot of some kind in the Marvel advent calendar:

Stylistically, the part is very similar to 11090 Bar Holder with Clip

It's easy to imagine how bars could be used to integrate these parts together into larger structures.

In terms of size, the part is 2 modules in its longer dimension, and 1.5 modules in its shorter dimension:

There are of course many, many ways this piece could be used, but one that came to my mind was using it as part of wrought iron stair rail design. This works nicely, but we do have to use stairs with a tread depth of 1.5 modules to allow the railings to touch:

This part adds new flexibility to the bar and clip family, and I'm excited to see it get used more in the future.

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Tags: piece-information, building
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title: Identify part with handle, rod and loop

text:
# Question
Title: Identify part with handle, rod and loop
I have been trying to figure out this part for 2 days now, using every descriptor I can think of. There is no visible part number, just the LEGO stamp and 2-01. Please help!

# Answer
> 17 votes
That is the Space Scanner Tool 30035.

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: How many different types of Lego bricks have been produced?
I was curious and wondering: How many different types of Lego bricks have been produced since the start of the company in 1949?

# Answer
> 5 votes
**Around 18,000 as of October, 2020**

A 2020 article on Brickset discusses part numbers that give us a rough idea.

> Design numbers identify the shape of the part. ... Our database contains around 18,000 design numbers but many more have been allocated over the years but are now out of use, following parts being discontinued or redesigned, at which point they are given a new one.

# Answer
> 4 votes
One source places the number of different types of LEGO elements that have been made at 2,200. It is unclear whether or not DUPLO, Clikits, or Bionicle etc, etc, are included in that count.

> How Many Different Types of LEGO Elements Exist? 2,200 different elements—or types of pieces
>
> How Many LEGO Elements Are Manufactured? Approximately 19 billion each year or, 2 million per hour or, 36,000 per minute

# Answer
> 3 votes
It really depends on your definition of a part. Does Duplo count? Do things like Lego branded paraphernalia with studs on them count? What about pre-ABS bricks? The old architecture sets? Do you count all the minor design changes as 'unique' elements? (The classic 2x4 brick has had probably a dozen minor changes to the molds over the decades, for example). You probably aren't considering color variations, but physical shape. Are pieces with differing paint jobs unique elements? A radar dish that is opaque is probably going to get use differently from a transparent one with space ship canopy lines on it...

I get the nature of your question, but depending on how you define it can have a big impact on the answer. I would throw out an order or magnitude answer and say that there are probably less than 10k physically unique pieces in existence. Anything more is going to involve a lot of decisions around what *exactly* is 'Lego'.

Any philosophy majors out there that are looking for a thesis, there you go. That one's on me.

# Answer
> 2 votes
One source I found mentions that there are around 4000 different LEGO elements:

> There are now around 4,000 different elements, as they are called at LEGO: round bricks, square ones, wheels, gears, and bricks with and without knobs.

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Tags: history
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# Question
Title: What parts are used in this unicorn from Lego Ideas?
I feel like I should be able to find all these pieces and here I am asking.

I am trying to gather a list of pieces to buy to build this model found on LEGO Ideas. It is this Unicorn with articulating legs and neck.

The problem is, I don't know how to articulate the words needed to find some of these pieces.

Let me share a modified screenshot of the current piece I'm stuck on. However if you know the fire pieces on the neck, or want to just make my whole list I'd love that.

I also am not sure what pieces make up the joint between the legs and the body. They look kinda like this Technic 1 x 2 piece (85943) piece but it is at least 2 x 2, I think.

I also am not sure what pieces make up the neck joint to the body but in the pictures on the LEGO Ideas page, it looks like that it can move too.

# Answer
The mane seems to be based on 64647 Minifgure Plume Feather Triple Compact in either trans-orange or trans-neon orange colour; each plume is mounted on a 85861 1 x 1 round plate wih open stud.

The hooves are 47458 1 x 2 x 2/3 Curved Slope Wing End.

The leg joints seem to be tow-ball joints. See parts 22890 1x2 plate with tow-ball, 14418 1x2 plate with tow-ball socket on end, and 14704 1x2 plate with tow-ball socket on side.
> 11 votes

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Tags: part-identification, ideas
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# Question
Title: Which websites can be used to trade minifigures?
Are there any reliable websites that do minifigure trading? I had a look around but couldn’t find much at all.

# Answer
There is a site for explicitly this purpose, called aptly swapfig.com.

It works by connecting other users either via a wanted or an offered ad, and if the other party accepts the trade you have to exchange postal info and send the minifigure. When the minifigure is received you have to check a box in the trade process page and you can leave a comment. Same if the item is never received. Like Bricklink, building a good reputation is necessary if you want to be trusted in making exchanges.

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Or if by trading, you mean buying and selling, then there are many suitable websites:

Here you can sell any minifigures you have and use the revenue to buy others, all the while enjoying the benefits (buyer and seller protection, market share, infrastructure) of an established site. Using these sites might not be straightforward for the first time, so be sure to read up on their own rules and customs, or ask around to learn what you must/should/could (not) do on them.

If, however, you mean "trading" rather as swapping, without involving money, be mindful that there can be huge differences in the value of a minifigure. Depending on age, condition, accessories, rarity and of course desirability, there can be a price range from under a dollar to hundreds of dollars for a single minifigure.
> 7 votes

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Tags: minifigures, shopping
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title: Need help with a vintage LEGO set

text:
# Question
Title: Need help with a vintage LEGO set
I got an old LEGO set recently, I have included a Google image as the one I have is packed away in plastic. Does anyone know the name and history behind it? And if this valuable?

# Answer
It seems like this is some variation of #700 set from Town Plan (Bricklink / Brickset). I don't know too much about them, but I read somewhere there were some differences between same numbered sets depending in which market these sets were sold. Mostly package printing (different languages), but could also be (I might be wrong here) the plant producing these sets.

Gary Istok (aka LEGO Historian on Eurobricks) is known to dig into very old LEGO stuff. If you'd like to know or read more about sets of that area I can suggest to look into buying Gary's "The Unofficial LEGO Sets/Parts Collectors Guide". You can look through Gary's topics on Eurobricks to have an idea what you can expect to find in his guide. Example.

**Note**. I am in no way affiliated with Gary Istok. Just sharing my knowledge where you could find more information.
> 8 votes

# Answer
\[I'm going with Alex's identification here of set 700.1-2 "Gift Package".\]

This is a very vintage set in LEGO land. Twice as many people want it on brickset as have it. There aren't many reviews of this set out there. There is this this youtube that gives you a run-through of the contents.

I would say it is valuable. There are two of these for sale on bricklink and they're currently priced at $244 and $408. Because there are so few that have ever sold there is no price history, but there seem to folks interested in having it.
> 5 votes

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Tags: set-identification, vintage
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# Question
Title: Help identifying minifigs and pieces of sets - purple character with grey horns and red eyes, cyborg type skull, astronauts light up with moving knees
I've got some doozies I've tried identifying. Please see photos but basically a purple guy with horns and yellow teeth, a cyborg type skull (could be a combo), astronauts with moving knees and wearing jetpack things which light up.

Also bonus round two random pieces - window with writing and a green tile with sticker of world and yellow box.

Take it a away and thanks in advance as always!

# Answer
> 7 votes
Head and torso from purple minifigure belong to Zurg from Toy Story

Second minifigure is mixture of several minifgures.

Its **head** is Minifigure, Head Alien Skull with Red Eyes, Metal Eyebrows with Rivets and Metal Jaw with Screws Pattern - Hollow Stud that has been part of two skeletons.

**Hair** piece is Minifigure, Hair Short Tousled with Silver Robot Components and Eyepiece Pattern Left Side

**Torso** is Torso Ninjago with Red Wires and Mechanical Parts Pattern / Black Arm Left / Flat Silver Arm Right / Yellow Hand Left / Black Hand Right with its hand changed to Dark Bluish colored versions.

Both head piece and torso belong to Cyrus Borg (OverBorg) - Rebooted

**Legs** are Hips and Legs with Red Belt, Red Tassels and Silver Outlined Knee Pads Pattern

Additional parts are:

Glass for Window 1 x 4 x 3 - Opening with Computer Screen with Silver 'ULTRA INTEL' and Ultra Agents Logo Pattern

Tile 2 x 2 with Groove with Barcode and Box and Arrows and Globe on Green Background Pattern (Sticker) - Set 60101

# Answer
> 5 votes
The two Astronauts on the right are Laser Pegs figures

The white one is from Laser Pegs Mars Rocket

The blue one is from Laser Pegs Mission Control

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Tags: set-identification, clone-brands, minifigure-identification
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# Question
Title: What kind of Lego-compatible figures are these?
Can anyone tell me about these Lego-compatible figures? They clearly aren't Lego brand, they don't look like Mega Blok figures or Tyco figures that I have seen (not that they couldn't be one of those brands potentially). They have no brand markings on them anywhere that I've found, but they can attach to standard Lego bricks. (bonus: how valuable are they? not very?) edit: some of the football characters (but not the coaches/plain people) have levers on their back and one locking leg.

# Answer
I found the answer! They are early Best-Lock, before Best-Lock merged with Cobi and was still manufactured in Colne, UK. In fact, here is the set that gave it away!
> 5 votes

# Answer
My first guess is that these are early generation Oyo Sportstoys (http://www.oyosports.com). The legs on the current version of Oyo figures are different (they have an articulated foot) but perhaps there was an earlier iteration of them that looks like the ones you have?
> 4 votes

# Answer
I've seen things like this called "soldier bear". they're made of really light grade plastic and their hats plug into heads inversely to legos.
> 4 votes

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Tags: part-identification, minifigures, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: How to remove round tiles easily from a plate
I have made a road for a medieval style MOC by putting 1x1 tile, 1x1 round tile and 1x1 round plate on plates of varying sizes.

When I want to remove the round tile from a stud not on any outer edges of a plate, I'm having a very hard time doing so. When trying to use a brick separator for it, I sometimes even damage the brick separator instead of removing the round tile. Does anyone have any tricks how to remove round tiles easily from a plate?

Edit: I'm trying to find a way to remove the round tiles from a plate when the round tile is not located on any stud on any of the sides of the plate. For the square tile I'm able to do so with my finger nails and the round plate is easy with a brick separator. Unfortunately I haven't yet found any good way of doing this to a round tile and it has no studs to attach a brick separator to and no corners to put your finger nails under. I have created a simple drawing to illustrate what I want to do. I'm looking for a way to remove a round plate from any of the studs marked in red on my drawing and doing so without damaging myself or any of the parts.

# Answer
After some searching on other lego related sites on the internet I found the useful suggestion to use a brick separator upside down. I have tested this and it is indeed much easier to do it this way if you have enough space to do so.
> 6 votes

# Answer
Modern tiles have grooves at the very bottom, which were designed specifically for the ease of removal. Here is an example how you can remove tiles from inside the plate (taken from one of recent mosaic set's instruction):

Even though picture shows variation of classic orange, which is narrower than pictured above, same technique applies to both.

LEGO has even got a dedicated webpage for Classic Brick Separator (wide, black version is called "Art" and has its own page as well). It contains example seen below. Although, I have never experienced parts flying like that during such disassembly.
> 6 votes

# Answer
In addition to brick separators, recent Art sets have come with a crowbar piece, apparently intended to make removal of individual circular tiles easier:

I haven't tried it myself, but it should be easier to maneuver between pieces than a whole brick separator.
> 6 votes

# Answer
I have kits for repair work on electronics, and have used the spudgers and plastic pry bars for Legos in tight spots. The kits are usually pretty cheap. Here’s an example: https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Prying-and-Opening-Tool-Assortment/IF145-364?o=1

I like them because they’re durable but usually softer than anything I might use them on (so they don’t mar).
> 3 votes

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Tags: disassembly
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# Question
Title: What does "all wheel drive" actually mean in the Land Rover Defender set?
The Land Rover Defender is described by LEGO as "all wheel drive".

There is no motor directly attached to power the wheels. The set cannot move unless we pull it by hand.

So, what does "all wheel drive" mean?

What about other sets like Jeep Wrangler, Monster Jam Grave Digger, Ford Raptor or Off Road Buggy? How can we describe their drive system?

# Answer
The "all wheel drive" phrase is used to represent a fact the model has a real life-like feature, I guess. Yes, it may not have the motor to provide the power to the wheels. But it has the differentials which are present in real vehicle's transmission, that work the same way real system does. Newest 4x4 Mercedes-Benz Zetros Trial Truck (42129) set has even got a lockable differential. Yes, it is bulky and may not be an exact copy of real-life solution, but it represent the existing feature.

This is also similar to a "motor" function (the one with moving pistons) we have in lots of Technic sets. In LEGO implementation it is working backwards - you need to push the model for the motor to "work". However, this assembly does represent the real-life relationship and connection between motor, gearbox (if one exist) and wheels.
> 12 votes

# Answer
Alex has given a great answer to your "what does "all wheel drive" means?" question, I'll attempt to answer the next one:

> What about other sets like Jeep Wrangler, Monster Jam Grave Digger, Ford Raptor or Off Road Buggy? What can we describe their drive system?

The 42118 Monster Jam Grave Digger and 42124 Off Road Buggy don't claim to have all-wheel drive, at least I can't see this or any similar phrase in their official description. Both have different mechanisms driving their rear wheels though.

The 42122 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon says it's 4x4 ("*own a high-performance 4X4*") but it has no engine, and the wheels aren't connected to anything, floating freely. I can only assume the 4x4 designation was insisted upon the marketing people of Jeep, as it has the same "drive" as the 5532 Fire Car (i.e. none):

I hope nobody would seriously consider this model AWD :)

The 42126 Ford F-150 Raptor has only its rear wheels "driven" (connected to the engine), so the proper designation would be RWD (rear wheel driven).

The 42110 Land Rover Defender is described as having "working All Wheel Drive", which is an apt designation here, as all wheels are connected to the engine (by the help of three differentials and a gearbox, which are only tangentially relevant to the question).
> 7 votes

# Answer
The 'real' Land Rover Defender comes standard with 'permanent All Wheel Drive'.

> Permanent All Wheel Drive is standard on Land Rover Defender except for those fitted with new D200, D250 and D300 6-cylinder Diesel engines.

Those LEGO sets try to make the set work as realistically as possible. Without engine, of-course, but the rest works as much the same as possible. Because it's such a key feature in this car, they made it a key feature in the set. That's why they used those exact words, they came straight from Land Rover.

What it means effectively is how the gearbox is put together. The set has a seriously complicated gearbox which is talked about in this YouTube video. You can find lots of pictures on the build and the gearbox in the Brickset review.
> 1 votes

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Tags: wheel, system
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# Question
Title: What was the 12v AC socket for on the 7864 transformer?
The 7864 transformer had, in addition of the main regulated outlet for controlling trains and a fixed 12v DC for plugging in remote controls and lights, a third socket available which provided 12v AC.

This third socket was blocked with a plastic plug, as seen on about every photo of it I can find, and I've never seen any reference of it being used in an official, LEGO-endorsed way. Even the official instructions bundled with it don't mention the port, treating as if it doesn't even exist at all.

So I wonder, what's the story behind this? Did LEGO have something else in mind with it, which was later abandoned? Or did they just toss it in because they had it internally available?

Retro-compatibility could also have been an answer, but the two AC socket on the blue transformer are apparently 16v (for switches) and 3,8v (for lights), so I'm thinking that's not it either.

# Answer
I had one of those, and afaik it was just used for the lights. I had like 2 light poles in my set and they where used for that. lights is about the only thing that could take AC current instead of DC in lego. Those weren't LED's at the time. I just can't find any pics online from the ones I have(had...).

Edit: Found it, it was powering this light brick: http://guide.lugnet.com/set/1140
> 5 votes

# Answer
I think it's for test purposes if the fixed and/or regulated 12VDC outputs don't work anymore. This output is fixed 13VAC so it might be directly connected to the secondary coil of the transformer before it is rectified by a diode bridge. With this output it is very easy to test if the transformer is broken or the electronics without opening the unit.
> 2 votes

# Answer
The AC output might be useful for blue era switch points. I guess this is how the transformer is built:
> 1 votes

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Tags: trains, 12v
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# Question
Title: How can find which Duplo sets, featuring car base, are currently sold in France?
My son have been playing a lot with my old LEGO at his grandma's, and I would like to buy him some to play at home.

I have tried to figure this out on my own, but I am stuck :(

I have read inside the vehicle the part number, 2312, and found it on Brinklink. It looks like it is retired, but the same mould tool got me to part 11248 which looks current.

It is in a decent number of sets, and I tried to find a few on the Internet, but it looks like they are retired. (Besides the obvious animal train, released this year)

How can I figure out, in the set list which are sold, in France, today, without checking one by one?

# Answer
Life cycle of a set from standard/general LEGO themes is, usually, 2 years. There are exceptions of course, where availability could be shorter or longer, but usually it stays within that time period. Some toy shops could have these sets for an extended period of time, while supply lasts.

It isn't easy to find which sets are available for sale using Bricklink, since it has so many Duplo Car Bases. So it would be much easier to check which Duplo sets are available for sale at official LEGO online store.

Currently, following Duplo sets feature car bases:
> 2 votes

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Tags: shopping, duplo
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# Question
Title: Where should the 76139 Batmobile roof pins land?
Lego Batmobile 76139. Could someone please advise whether the pins installed in step 445 should rest on top of or just in front of the stanchions installed in step 417 ?

# Answer
*Caveat: I don't have this set, so am just looking at the instructions.*

It looks like the pins should rest alongside the Axle 1L with Pin 3L you pushed into place on step 294:

You can possibly see that a bit clearer on step 447:

They should therefore rest just in front of the two SNOT assembles you added in step 417.

That's also borne out if you count 12 studs from where the Axle and Pin connector sits when lowered - the end of the 12L axle comes to the just behind the pin mentioned in step 294.
> 5 votes

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Tags: building
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# Question
Title: Can anyone identify this set or sets - printed tile with a wooden path, lots of browns and tans and oranges
Can someone help me identify this set that I found at a consignment shop? It has some unique pieces and all of the bags were sealed (I opened two bags to get out a couple bricks for pictures). I have been scouring the Lego website and can't seem to locate the set. It could be missing bags, but I have quite a collection and want to make this mystery set.

# Answer
> 16 votes
Both sets are from 2014, which is why you couldn't find them on LEGO website.

Elements included in first picture and first three polybags on second picture are from Battle Towers (21205) set.

Identified by unique modified printed tile.

The rest looks like it comes from Forest Animals (31019)

Identified by round 2x2 tile with eye pattern together with round slope in Lime color, Red slope and Yellow bits.

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Live axle + steering

text:
# Question
Title: Live axle + steering
Does anyone know how to make a live front axle (steered, driven, beam axle, preferably with a panhard rod) in a relatively small space, I can't figure it out.

This is my rear axle for guidance:

Most things are OK to change except for: suspension mounting points (one stud inwards IS possible), track width, and wheel size.

I appreciate any help, doesn't need to be a finished product, just an idea would go a long way too.

# Answer
I could suggest looking at suspension in RM8's Land Cruiser (FJ40) model. Although all description is in Russian that webpage contains sufficient number of pictures, which are self-explanatory. This model has even got free instructions.

From what I see, both yours and RM8 model's suspension are 11L wide so it could be adapted or pose as an inspiration to figure out your own, unique setup.
> 3 votes

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Tags: technic, vehicle, steering
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# Question
Title: Bagged Set Identification from 2011 - 3 bags somewhat separated into color themes (blue/green, white/brown, pink/yellow/orange)
I managed to score some (partial) Lego sets still in the bags. All the bags are marked 2011, but I'm struggling to ID them after leafing through 24 pages of 2011 Lego sets on Brickset. The left bag has "135149" on it, but nothing in the search results seems to match the colors. The colors in the right and left bag, plus the flowers/florals, look like maybe they came from Lego Friends series? None of the Lego Friends sets I saw seemed to fit. The middle set I'm even more lost on. The arches, doors, and gray ribbed pieces make it seem like it could be part of a building set.

# Answer
Looks like 10692 Creative Bricks

Justification addendum:

The first picture has a blue 2x10 plate. It's not that unique (113 sets on BrickLink). There's also a 6x12 plate which I initially thought was green, but it seems not to be, as no set on BrickLink has both those pieces. But if it's bright green, there are 3 matches. I can't at all be certain of the color of the 6x6 round plate by looking at it, but when I cross-reference BrickLink for sets that have

* at least 1 of Blue 2x10 plate
* at least 1 of Bright Green 6x12 plate
* at least 1 of 6x6 round plate with hole (in any color)

there is only this set.
> 7 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Who can make a custom made LEGO 777 airplane?
I work in an advertisement agency and our client wants to make a LEGO custom made airplane branded with their branding to be given to their offices. Is there anyone who can make the instructions and what parts should we order and we will build them ourselves?

# Answer
About your question: I don't think anyone will give you instructions+part list without getting some form of payment and you haven't mentioned anything about that, but what are you willing to pay? (I can't do it, so I'm not asking because I'm interested).

You haven't said anything about the scale of the model they want. For the rest of the answer I'm going to assume a scale that means the model will contain some hundred parts.

To address the final part of your question: Depending on what parts are used in the design you want to go with (and the depth of your pockets - some parts are very expensive) there should be no problems in you ordering the parts and building a number of copies - note that it might take quite a bit of time to actually do that, depending on:

* the size of the model
* the skills of the people doing the building
* the building techniques used

If you can find a local builder who wants to take on the task, it might quickly become cheaper to ask them to build a number of copies.

You haven't said where you are, but if there are any LCP's (LEGO certified professionals) near you (or any of the client's offices), this sounds like a job they would like.
> 7 votes

# Answer
Henrik is spot-on with his suggestions for more details and things to think about here.

But I have a particular suggestions for the **who** part of your question: talk to BigPlanes from youtube that recently started their 777 project. I don't have any contact information for this youtube user, but you could start by making a comment on one of their posts and see how it goes.

You could also try someone that builds Boeing planes on Rebrickable, but I didn't see anybody trying to do a 777 up there yet. One advantage of Rebrickable is that most of the participants are used to creating instructions for their sets.
> 2 votes

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Tags: moc
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# Question
Title: Identify this partly-built clone brand plane
Someone offered my kid a big box of mixed LEGO parts. I tried to identify some sets and I managed to build 60139 and a monster truck from Technic. But now I'm stuck. I cannot find another set (and I have around 3.5 kg more to work with)

Does anyone know which sets are these partially build parts?

I added some pictures. Looks like the wing and and the plane are related I think.

# Answer
> 5 votes
These are Ausini

The red / gray assembly is from

The white parts are from

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Tags: set-identification, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: What are these vintage LEGO-like window pieces?
I have a bag of square white vintage LEGO-like windows but with grooves on 2 sides and square pegs on 2 sides.

Has clear "window" pieces and these beam-like bars, the pegs seem to fit the grooves on the other parts. Any help on identifying manufacturers or age?

# Answer
> 17 votes
These parts are from Supercity, made by Ideal

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands, vintage
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# Question
Title: Can anyone help me with what set these bags belong to? Black parts galore
I have bags number 5,6,7. I think they may all be to the same set. The QR code is not coming up with anything.

# Answer
> 8 votes
I can peek a couple of 12L red axles plus a trans-green projectile.

That and the sheer amount of black parts is enough to identify this as 75256-1 Kylo Ren's Shuttle from the Star Wars franchise:

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Does anyone know or can identify these pieces? Lots of long tan, and blue, and white
I bought this from an auction the box that came with it was from LEGO city but judging from the colors it seems like its the wrong box. Can anyone identify?

# Answer
> 25 votes
The color scheme immediately reminded me of London Tower Bridge (10214). Since this isn't a sealed set, it is not possible to tell if this belongs to one or several sets. However, the combination of some objects like the assembly in Yellow and Pearl Gold as well as Technic pulley wheels in Tan, the 2x10 brick in Blue and, as I mentioned, the overall color scheme all leads to this set.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: How can I build the windows depicted in this image?
I am trying to figure out the building technique used in these windows. Does anybody know how to achieve those? Unfortunately I do not have pictures of the lower part.

Edit: I only want it to look good from one side and it is just about the windows encircled by the red marking.

# Answer
It's difficult to tell from the photos exactly how this was done, but here's a window design that is pretty close:

Here's how that's put together:

It should be possible to adapt that rough design to fit in other MOCs.
> 6 votes

# Answer
**Edit**.

I came up with better idea how it can still look pretty in the front and a little ugly on the inside, but now have most of the window attached.

No changes at the front:

However this is how it looks now at the back:

Exploded view:

**Original suggestion**:

Another option, which I don't like too much since it relies on friction, with some elements not being attached to anything. However it is easier to integrate in a wall of a building.

Exploded view:

And as you can see the main part of the window is not attached to any studs. In such case it can be built to be pretty on both sides. And if not deliberately pushed, window will stay in place.
> 4 votes

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Tags: building, moc
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# Question
Title: What website will allow me to create VERY SPECIFIC minifig heads, torsos and legs?
For instance, if I want to make a minifig of my Minecraft skin, I want some kind of program to do that.

# Answer
> 13 votes
I believe that Studio PartDesigner can do that.

# Answer
> 2 votes
As an alternative to Hugo's suggestion of Studio Part Designer you might want to try Mecabricks. I find Studio easier to work with in many cases because it is a native application. Both tools allow you to model with LEGO parts and get great 3D renders of the models.

Mecabricks excels in having more parts available. With Studio there are more cases where you need to use the customization tools just to get a stock part while Mecabricks will already have the part. I found this while working on custom minifigs, but I wouldn't be surprised if it applied to other categories of parts.

It can be more challenging to get started with Mecabricks, but they have some good tutorials pinned in their forum.

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Tags: minifigures, design
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# Question
Title: How do you scroll the canvas in EV3 Classroom?
I have EV3 classroom installed on Mac. I am writing a pretty lengthy program that does not fit in a single screen. However, I am not able to figure how to scroll down or move sideways. This should be simple, but embarrassingly, I can not figure it out.

# Answer
Click on a blank area of the canvas and drag while still holding the mouse button to pan.
> 3 votes

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Tags: ev3, programming
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# Question
Title: What are these LEGO pieces? Dark grey, notched, a hole out to the side
Could you please help me identify this LEGO piece?

# Answer
> 16 votes
I think I found it, it's actually two pieces on top of each other - 99563 on top of 36840 (sorry I do not have a better picture, it is cropped from a photo I found online):

99563

36840

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Can someone help identify this piece? Looks like the back of a tiny dump truck
It's the big gray flat piece, if anyone can help find this piece I would appreciate it greatly.

# Answer
> 16 votes
It appears to be Bionicle Krana Holder 3 x 4 (Scoop / Bucket with Axle Hole)

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Toa Terrain Crawler alternate build instructions
I was building the LEGO Bionicle Toa Terrain Crawler, (8927), when I saw at the back of the instructions a photo of an alternate helicopter-type build. Where can I find the instructions on how to build this model?

# Answer
> -1 votes
You can find them in The LEGO Customer Service site. Search for the set you'd like to rebuild, and you can download the instructions. Some Technic sets include a few parts or stickers that you won't need while building the main model. https://www.lego.com/en-my/service/help/bricks-and-sets/building-instructions/additional-instructions-blt2c8ffc2c6ffa17b8#:~:text=You%20can%20find%20them%20right,while%20building%20the%20main%20model.

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Tags: instructions, bionicle, alternate-model
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# Question
Title: Mindstorm 51515 If then else alternative - like a switch statement
Is there a way to act on multiple values for a variable? For example, `x` may be 1, 2, or 3. If then else allows for 2 conditions. Multiple "ifs" work, but is cumbersome.

Ideally I'd like a switch statement, such as:

```
switch (x) {
  case 1:
    Block1;
    break;
  case 2:
    Block2;
    break;
  case 3:
    Block3;
    break;
  default:
    break;
}

```

# Answer
Based on the set number, I'm assuming you're using the "Robot Inventor App", and the scratch-based graphical programming language?

If that's the case, then I think you're likely to be limited to what Scratch supports, and I don't believe that includes a native switch statement.

Based on this thread on the Scratch site, you could try using the `broadcast` and `when I receive` blocks to create a `switch` like statement (assuming you don't need too many of them):

Basically, you drop the variable into the broadcast message field, and then set up the receive blocks to kick in when the relevant value is seen (I don't own the set, but was able to play around with the App in "streaming" mode to see control flowing through these blocks)

I've taken this a step further, by using the `join` block to combine the `counter` variable with a text string, which would allow for more switch statements in different parts of your program:
> 4 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, programming
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# Question
Title: Looking for LEGO parts in a different color
I was wondering if you could assist me in my search for clone-brand bricks Technic parts.

I am in need of the following:

| Design Number | Wanted Color | Description | Quantity |
| --- | --- | --- | --- |
| 71685 | Earth Blue | Panel 2 x 3 x 1, No. 1 | 1 piece |
| 42545 | Earth Blue | Shell 5 x 13 x 2 with 4.85 Hole, No. 1 | 4 |
| 71709 | Earth Blue | Flat Panel 3 x 7, No. 1 | 4 pieces |
| 93606 | Earth Blue | Brick with Bow 2 x 4 | 2 pieces |
| 40490 | Earth Blue | Technic 9M Beam | 12 pieces |
| 42195 | Earth Blue | Cross Axle Extension 3M | 2 pieces |
| 42128 | Earth Blue | Angle Element 157.5 Degrees | 2 pieces |
| 59443 | Earth Blue | Cross Axle Extension 2M | 4 pieces |
| 65487 | Earth Blue | Single Bush(ing) 2M Diameter 4.9 | 4 pieces |
| 85984 | Transparent (Clear) Red | Roof Tile 1 x 2 x 2/3, ABS | 6 pieces |

A fellow LEGO Technic Builder on “Bricklink” directed me to you. He suggested that you might have the parts in the color that I need hopefully this is so. I have tried LEGO, BrickLink, BrickOwl, BrickSet to locate the above parts in the LEGO Earth Blue color and the roof tile in transparent red (I do not think anyone makes this part in transparent red.)

# Answer
> 1 votes
A number of those elements are available from webrick.com, you can upload a list to match with their inventory - remember to search for colour Dark Blue - 140, as that's what most sites call LEGO's Earth Blue.

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Tags: clone-brands, colour
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