title: Broken pneumatic distribution block

text:
# Question
Title: Broken pneumatic distribution block
I have a first-generation Lego Pneumatic set (nr 8851) that I recently took out of storage. I remembered from the last time I built the set that the pneumatics weren't working and I just confirmed that this is still the case.

After some experimentation, it turns out that the pneumatic distribution block is not doing its proper job of providing pressure only on one outlet and suction only on the other outlet, so it seems to be broken internally.

My question is, given that this part is specific to the first generation pneumatics and has been out of production for over 30 years, is it worth it to look for a replacement of this part, or is it to be expected that due to the age of the parts, the internals have deteriorated to the point that I need to be very lucky to find a working one?

Another option I am willing to consider it to try to repair the piece I have, so any advice in that direction is also welcome.

# Answer
I do not own such piece, so cannot tell if they all are broken by this time. However I have a suggestion regarding acquiring a replacement.

Bricklink is a dedicated to trading just LEGO items, so I can recommend to look here for replacement. While some of the sellers do not check functionality of all the items they sell it is considered items should be in a working state unless stated otherwise. It would be best to ask a seller (that you have chosen to buy the item from if it works) to test the piece if you ask them before placing an order.

The item you should be looking for on Bricklink is called Pneumatic Distribution Block 2 x 4 with Non-return Valve.
> 2 votes

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Tags: repair, pneumatic
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# Question
Title: Identifying some hair, a green "gem", and white minifigures accessory
I recently acquired a few pounds of LEGO with some off-brand building blocks mixed through it. I've got three mystery pieces that I haven't been able to find on Bricklink. I'm wondering if they are Lego or off-brand pieces. I was under the impression that most LEGO pieces had the word LEGO written on them, and none of these do.

1. Brown hair: Has the number 5 on the bottom. It fits a 2x2 square. I got no matches in a search for "hair", filtering to brown color.
2. Green gem: It kind of reminds me of Rock Raiders, but I got no matches for "green gem" or "green jewel". The base is a 2x2 circle. It has no lettering on it.
3. White "wings"? This one I am quite sceptical of, however it fits perfectly on a minifigure as a pair of wings. I had no idea what to search for this one. It has a number 2 on it.

I'd like to know if these are Lego pieces. Reasons that they likely aren't (eg. LEGO has never used that color) are great too.

# Answer
> 9 votes
Piece 1 is Mega Bloks. Here's is a picture of a head (twice) that goes with it, and some yellow hair as well.

# Answer
> 7 votes
The bottom piece seems to be Kre-O — this is a LEGO-like product produced by Hasbro, which includes a number of sets based on the Transformers franchise (which Hasbro also own).

This piece can be seen on the 3rd character (a "Kreon", their version of a Minifig) in the 6th row of the below image.

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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# Question
Title: Options for powering Winter Holiday Train
Is there a way to make the Winter Holiday Train powered without the IR receiver or Remote Control?

I only set it up at Christmas time and just want it to go around the track at the one speed. I want to avoid the expense of purchasing all the parts. I understand I can reduce the power supply of the recommended battery box by adding dummy batteries but I read somewhere that LEGO has a rechargeable battery box with variable speed. Can I use this instead of the recommended battery box and connect directly to motor?

# Answer
> 10 votes
If you want to “turn on and forget” you might want to look into obtaining a circle of old 9V track (metal rails produced by LEGO until 2007) and a power supply, plus a 9V train motor. It will not be cheap (the track pieces, especially curves, won’t be too expensive but a working 9V train motor is a $50-$75 purchase) however it will allow you to turn the train on and keep it running.

(Image copied from this thread which will be useful to troubleshoot if you have issues with your 9V setup).

FOLLOW-UP: After writing this answer, I realized I too need a circle of 9V track for my Christmas tree train :). I went ahead and bought an incomplete but working 9V train set on EBay for $100, which gives me the transformer, power cord, power supply, a 9V motor and some track. I then added the missing pieces of track from BrickLink (\<$1 per curve, $4-$5 for straight, plus shipping) and was all done for less than $150, with extra pieces from the incomplete set such as wheel sets, magnetic couplers and the sunken train bases which are quite valuable nowadays. If you compare that with buying the retired rechargeable battery box and all the PF components, that is similar money, with the downside for PF that you still need to charge every so often - which is what I used to do. One watch-out: these 9V tracks were made both in Dark Gray as well as in Dark Bluish Gray, so expect color differences if you try to mix and match these. I don’t mind as I intend to ballast my tracks anyways, and color differences make for a more “natural” look.

# Answer
> 6 votes
Yes, the rechargeable battery box would work.

However, if your intention is to avoid expenses, you are better off with buying the IR-receiver, IR remote and the regular battery box rather than the rechargeable one. The rechargeable battery box is no longer available from Lego for quite some time now and is getting expensive on the secondary market as well (e.g. on Bricklink the cheapest offer is 90$)

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Tags: trains, powered-up, battery
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# Question
Title: My poor minifig's head is stuck in his helmet!
Recently I made a LEGO race car with a driver who wore a helmet. Unfortunately, after the race, I tried to take off his helmet and his head came off inside the helmet. Any suggestions about getting it out so he can see again?

# Answer
You can use some sugar liquid to use as temporary glue to make the head stuck to the torso. Then wait till the sugar is sticky and then try to remove the helmet. Once the helmet is loose you can put the head and torso in warm water to loosen the sugar glue and take it off. Then wash thoroughly to remove remaining sugar.
> 23 votes

# Answer
A trick that's worked for me in the past, is to use a 1x1 cone with a Technic axle in it (it needs to be the cone without the top groove, unlike the example below) - this will allow you to force the tapered end of the cone into the hole on the bottom of the head, and by fastening a Technic gearwheel, brick or larger cylinder to the Technic axle, you'll be able to apply a fair amount of force to increase the clutch of the cone piece in the head and twist to loosen it from the helmet with a push-twist-pull movement. Good luck.
> 12 votes

# Answer
Your problem is that the clutch (what holds bricks together) between the helmet and the head is too high, and in any case higher than the clutch between head and torso.

This means the solution is to increase the clutch between the head and another part you'll use to remove it. I would first recommend trying other torsos, maybe one has enough clutch to easily take the head with it and beat the helm. Twisting the parts while trying to separate them should also help.

If that fails, other LEGO parts might help, but I'm not sure which ones - torsos have a longer stud probably for that very reason. Maybe a Technic pin with friction?

You could also try slipping some paper around a torso stud, but be careful not to just push the paper alone inside the head.
> 8 votes

# Answer
A quick and easy way to remove a helmet stuck onto the head...I used a piece of Bounty kitchen roll, approximately 3cm x 3cm, (which is actually thicker then a single ply toilet tissue) and placed this over the stub of the body then pushed the head onto this. The head will not go all the way down, but far enough for it to remain firmly in place. Then I was able to remove the helmet very easily.
> 8 votes

# Answer
You need to get something into the head-hole to grip the head whilst you remove the helmet.

You could try a pair of snap-ring pliers or needle nose pliers. Insert both jaws into the hole and pull them apart as much as possible whilst you remove the head from the helmet. You might need a helper - someone to remove the helmet whilst you grip the head with the tool.

You may not be able to avoid scratching the inside of the head-hole slightly - but a scratch where it won't be seen is probably better than throwing two parts away.

Worst case, you write-off the head completely, but at least you've still got a useful helmet. If you do get to the point where you can't remove the helmet without damaging it, you could resort to super-gluing something to the inside of the head and pull it out.
> 6 votes

# Answer
Take some scotch tape and wrap it round the neck thing. Then you just put the head on and pull the helmet off. If that doesn't work, use more tape, it will make the head stay on the neck a little better.
> 6 votes

# Answer
I just removed a non-LEGO crown which was very very tight top on Nadakhan's head. It was so tight, it seemed that only destroying it could help. But my son loved the crown and especially head, so here is my solution:

1. I put some olive oil between the crown and the head
2. I took a paper napkin and put it over a LEGO torso's neck
3. I put the head stuck on the neck over the paper, so the head was pretty tight on the torso
4. I boiled some water, poured it into a cup, then holding the minifigure's legs, put the crown in the boiling water. Please note - not the head, just the helmet (crown in my case)!
5. After about 2 minutes held in the very hot water (I hoped the hot water would expand the crown, but not the head. I don't know if this step was really necessary), I could completely remove the crown from the head with pliers.

Good luck to everyone with the same problem :)
> 6 votes

# Answer
You should try to use a torso that is really, really gripping. The newer, the better. Do you have any Exo-Force minifigures? I found those torsos really, really tight. Whenever I got something stuck, I always plonk them on Hikaru's torso. Works most of the time. Helps if you twist it around. Once the helmet turns but the head doesn't, you're gold.
> 5 votes

# Answer
I know this is going to sound weird, but wrap a piece of single-ply toilet paper over the neck of the body piece. Jam that in the head's hole and twist until the face starts to move. Then pull. The head should come out of the helmet no problem!
> 5 votes

# Answer
You can also try to use soapy water. You know how people use soap to remove a stuck ring from their finger? The same works for stuck LEGO helmets. Just immerse the helmet/head in some water with lots of soap, then do as Joubarc mentioned; attach them back to a torso, and now wiggle off the helmet...(c:
> 4 votes

# Answer
Just, let the time goes by, that happenned to me with a dwarf beard, I had to wait 2 months, and after that, it came off easily. In your case, I need that Anakin's hair just gets stuck in it's head.
> 4 votes

# Answer
You can put a little bit of 2 sided tape on the neck of the torso and stick it in the head and pull and it works, however this may get stuck inside the head. So using one sided tape would work if you put enough layers on....also 1 sided tape is easier to to get hold of.
> 4 votes

# Answer
Take a household screw slightly wider than the hole inside the head. Screw it in until the threads feel a bit tight. Then pull it out with a pliers. If you have a screw but it's not wide enough inside the neck, wrap it in a paper towel and screw it in till it's tight and will make the head turn inside the helmet, and then pull it out.
> 4 votes

# Answer
You could always use a tight torso and put it inside the head. I actually used mega block brand legs to take out the head of my minfig. Sometimes it doesn't work but most of the time it does.
> 3 votes

# Answer
Put the head (with the helmet stuck on) on a torso. As you take the helmet off, bend the helmet a little.

As long as there is more friction between the torso and head than the head and helmet it should come of with some effort.
> 3 votes

# Answer
You can put some duct tape on top of a LEGO axle and push it into the head hole and twist until it comes out!
> 3 votes

# Answer
Grab a sharp knife. Stick it inside the head on a slight angle and twist the helmet off. This has worked every time for me. :) Just be careful when you do it!
> 3 votes

# Answer
I boiled some water. Then I stuck a pencil eraser in the head. After that I dipped mostly just the helmet in the water. Finally, I attached the head to the torso and kept on twisting the helmet until it got loose and fell off.

I hope this works for someone else!
> 3 votes

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Tags: minifigures, disassembly
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# Question
Title: Why is my EV3 status light pulsing? (ev3dev)
I am using EV3 micropython (ev3dev?). When I upload the below program to my EV3, I see on the screen the usual play button image which looks approximately like the below ASCII art:

```
              _______
            /         \
           /    |\     \
          |     | \     |
          |     |  )    |
           \    | /    /
            \   |/    /
             ---------

```

However, the EV3 status light pulses. By "pulsing" I don't mean the light flashes on, off, on but instead that it gradually dims then brightens. I don't know what that indicates, but my program (intended to smoothly and gradually accelerate a motor by remote control) does not work. My program:

```
#!/usr/bin/env pybricks-micropython
from pybricks.hubs import EV3Brick
from pybricks.ev3devices import (Motor, TouchSensor, ColorSensor,
                                 InfraredSensor, UltrasonicSensor, GyroSensor)
from pybricks.parameters import Port, Stop, Direction, Button, Color
from pybricks.tools import wait, StopWatch, DataLog
from pybricks.robotics import DriveBase
from pybricks.media.ev3dev import SoundFile, ImageFile

# This program requires LEGO EV3 MicroPython v2.0 or higher.
# Click "Open user guide" on the EV3 extension tab for more information.

# Create your objects here.
ev3 = EV3Brick()
ir = InfraredSensor(Port.S1)
pitchlm = Motor(Port.D)
yawmm = Motor(Port.B)
rollmm = Motor(Port.A)

pitchspeed = 0
rvz = 0

def remote_motor_gradual(posbutton, negbutton, increment, retvarname):
    ''' Gradually increases/decreases return value based on remote button;
    if positive value is being returned and current input is negative,
    value decreases 2x faster than if no buttons were being pressed.
    Parameters: posbutton, button to make return value go up;
    negbutton, button to make return value go down;
    increment, amount  of increment when NO button is pressed;
    retvarname, name of final-result variable (use a different one for each use,
    e.g. xretval).
    Before using retvarname, put somewhere before this def "nameyoulluse = X where X
    is the number you want the return value to be.
    '''
    if posbutton in ir.buttons(1):
        retvarname = retvarname + increment * 2
    elif negbutton in ir.buttons(1):
        retvarname = retvarname - increment * 2
    elif retvarname > 0: # if it is greater than 0
        retvarname = retvarname - increment
    elif retvarname < 0: # if it is less than 0
        retvarname = retvarname + increment
    return retvarname
while True:
    rollmm.run(remote_motor_gradual(Button.RIGHT_UP, Button.RIGHT_DOWN, .05, rvz))

```

# Answer
> 1 votes
That is just the default state of the light when `pybricks-micropython` starts.

You can get help with Pybricks programming at https://github.com/pybricks/support.

---
Tags: ev3, ev3dev, python, micropython, pybricks
---


title: Boxes for individual sets

text:
# Question
Title: Boxes for individual sets
What are good boxes (in USA or importable) that would allow young (5 years) Lego builders to store single sets, keeping all the pieces for single build together, while keeping younger sisters (1 year) from exploring?

# Answer
> 4 votes
I've been parting out some of my old Technic sets for my son to play with, and I've found that tackle boxes work nicely for individual sets. It doesn't matter too much which brand you go with. Most of the major brands offer a variety of sizes. Here's a set I just parted out using a Plano 3700 series box:

I also like the parts bins with removable internal sections for storing sets. These are great while building as you can take the bins out and place them in convenient places.

<sub>(source: harborfreight.com)</sub>

Stanley makes great bins like this, but I've found the cheaper knock-off bins work fine for LEGO at about half the price.

If you are looking for a free solution, I sometimes use pick-a-brick cups or plastic jars such as the ones peanut butter is sold in for storing smaller sets or groups of parts.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Props to jncraton's take on this. I have an alternative suggestion, that may work for smaller sets. While I don't have sisters to keep out, I do have a variety of small sets that I can't keep displayed. My method boils down to:

1. I put each of these in a plastic ziplock bag of the appropriate size. I can write the set# on it in with a permanent marker like a Sharpie.
2. Then these ziplocks are put into a smallish plastic storage bin which gets labeled. The bins I have are 16"x11"x7".
3. The label from the bin gets put into brickset.com so I have some hope of finding these things again.
4. Instructions don't work well with this method, but if you're ok keeping those in another place I find sheet protectors in binders to work. Of course, there are other suggestions on this site for this.

This is probably not adequate protection to prevent a concerted sister invasion. A locked closet might help, but this is getting far out of my expertise. :). Chris H, no relation, commented that these plastic bins are available predrilled so that they can be easily locked up.

Another advantage of this bin/label/brickset system is that it works for lots of small sets that are still in their boxes. So I've got uniformity in the bin size for how I'm storing small/medium sets whether they're assembled or not. My spare parts overflow is also going into the same bins in ziplocks.

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Tags: storage
---


# Question
Title: What LEGO piece is this arc with ball joint?
I cannot find a part number on it. It has the official logos on the studs. What is this? What theme does it originate from?

It looks like a combination of a 4x4 plate, a 5x2 plate and an arc with a ball joint.

# Answer
> 27 votes
That is the Vehicle, Trailer Base 4 x 13. It came in one set, the #378 Tractor from 1972.

Found by searching first 4x9 (didn't find it) and then 4x13 (the total length).

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: Can you identify this fiery orange hair?
Can someone identify the orange hair in this minifig?

# Answer
> 7 votes
That seems to be part #24787, Minifigure, Hair Spiked Tall Top. So far it has only been released in orange. It came on the 2016 Syndrome minifig, one of the Disney Collectible Minifigures.

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Tags: part-identification, minifigures
---


# Question
Title: Is there any cross compatibility between 51515 and 31313?
I'm thinking of buying another Mindstorms set, and I already have a 31313. I don't want to spend $370 just to learn they are completely incapable of communicating with each other, so if you could tell me whether they are capable of communicating in any way other than mechanical (e.g. have the EV3 turn a motor and give a readout on some other sensor on the 51515) or using distance sensors, please tell me of their existence and type. Thanks.

# Answer
> 4 votes
It is possible to communicate between the 31313 and 51515 hubs.

See these youtube videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PT4\_4v1W2C8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3uk80tuqI4

In the first video a SPIKE Prime hub (same as 51515 just different firmware) is used to control a 31313 hub and in the second video there's more of explanation of how it's done.

I do not think that currently there is any compatibility between sensors. So you would need to use the 31313 hub to handle all its sensors and motors, which you could then communicate with or control from the 51515 (which is handling its own sensors and motors).

---
Tags: ev3, mindstorms, compatibility, robotic
---


# Question
Title: Lego 3804, Mindstorms Robotics Invention System 2.0 on Windows 10
I gave my grandson (11 years old) the LEGO 3804 Mindstorms Robotics Invention System 2.0. He built a couple things and when he tried to install software to program what he built, the computer would not accept the download. He is running Windows 10.

As a result he can't really use the system. Are there any suggestions or advice from anyone out there to help. I feel terrible about this.

Thank you for your time and expertise.

# Answer
> 2 votes
That set has an RCX in it, is that right? I have several suggestions for you:

1. Have you tried running the software/installer file in **compatibility mode?** I understand this software was designed for Windows 95 or 98. If this is the case, there is an option in Windows to 'run in compatibility mode' by right clicking the .exe file, selecting 'properties' and then under the compatibility section, select whichever operating system the software was originally designed for.
2. I have found this article which may provide you with a tutorial. I am not personally familiar with the set, but I assume this software will work.
3. Failing all else, I suggest you try Brixc Command Centre . This uses a derivation of C for programming your robot which, as I understand is not too different from the original Lego software. This is **freeware** and allows you to program not only the RCX, but other versions of Mindstorms robots if that is of interest. I personally use this all the time with my Mindstorms NXT sets and it works a treat. It's a great way to introduce programming to people as well!

Hope these suggestions are of help!

# Answer
> 1 votes
I found I could not get the Mindstorms NXT 2.0 software to load on my Windows 10 PC because LEGO revoked the security certificates and wants you to run the newest software. The latest version of Mindstorm software (EV3) seems to load and run a Mindstorms NXT 2.0, however, you lose the remote control via Bluetooth and the ability to update NXT Firmware on the brick if you use the latest. If one has a real need to load the software on Windows 10, I found a method to do so.

1. Activate the Administrator account on your Windows 10. I found the only method that worked for me was to Search for from windows menu "Computer Management" and run this.
2. Open the folder Users, and double-click the Administrator account.
3. Uncheck the option for Account Is Disabled, and click OK or Apply.
4. Exit Computer management
5. Click the windows button and select "Switch User" from arrow button on shutdown
6. Click to enter Admin account
7. Start Powershell as an administrator
8. In Powershell, type, D:Setup.ext where D: is the location of the mindstorms NXT 2.0 Setup file.
9. When you are done, it would be wise to re-hide the administrator account to avoid someone accidentally going into it and causing damage to Windows.

I needed this because our NXT system has some special 3rd party sensors that drivers exist for NXT 2.0 only.

As with any bypassing of windows security features, be wise about how you make use of this approach and touch nothing more than is noted. There are plenty of "how to activate administrator" account help pages but nobody seems to note that Powershell run under the administrator account allows you to load software with revoked certificates. Never load anything you are not 100% sure is truly safe to run with an approach like this. You could load potentially dangerous software if it is not verified as safe. I hope this saves someone the frustration and days of time I spent figuring this out.

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Tags: mindstorms, rcx
---


# Question
Title: I am desperate to find the name of this brick
Please help me find the name of this brick!

I am trying to build a Lego locomotive MOC and these headlights parts, the yellow ones would fit perfectly with my design, but I can't find the name of this one no matter how much I searched.

I would greatly appreciate if someone can recognize it and help me identify it!

Many thanks!

# Answer
> 9 votes
Looks pretty much like this part (tilted by 90°):

Brick Modified 2 x 2 with Pin Hole, Rotation Joint Socket

I recognized it by the small sloped parts next to the cylinder. But apparently, this part was never produced in yellow. When looking closely at the pictures, the yellow has a different tone than the other yellow parts next to it. I think it might have been repainted.

# Answer
> 0 votes
Those headlights are made by mounting a Brick Round 2x2 in yellow with the studs towards the train body, and then adding a trans-clear boat stud as the light’s lens. The whole construction seems to be fixed in place with a bar, judging from the little light-bluish-gray tip sticking out into the lens.

---
Tags: part-identification
---


# Question
Title: Connecting an axle to a stud on the ground for railings
I'm trying to build railing using axles and connectors and am not finding an easy way to get the axles that go to the ground to connect in a way that would be best for my design. Three options I've found so far is using 4032, 3941, or 3713. I like 3713 because it has a smaller profile, but it cannot be placed directly on a stud, which causes two problems: 1) the railings are slightly inside of the plate (less problematic to me); 2) I cannot cover the surrounding studs with tiles, which I'd like to do. Seems another option could be using 11458. That would also offset the railing, but I could cover the stud with a 1x1 tile. I could also use a technic 3700 or 32064, but again, offset and you lose the smaller profile. I'm wondering if I'm not missing some socket sticking straight up that would solve the problem.

# Answer
> 11 votes
For the axle with stud on one side you could also use a smaller pin connector 18654.

# Answer
> 8 votes
Here are some Ideas i came up with. I added some of your suggestions for comparrison.

**Mounted on top of the plate:**

1. 4032
2. 3941
3. 3713
4. 11458, 32013, 2780
5. 30383, 30553

**Mounted below the plate:**

6. 40902, 30552
7. 30389b, 30553
8. 32000, 32013, 2780
9. 3701, 32013, 2780

---
Tags: piece-information, technic, building
---


title: What LEGO set do these bags belong to?

text:
# Question
Title: What LEGO set do these bags belong to?
Any idea what set this might be? Number on bags say 529R9. I have unopened bags 2-6 and one loose bag of LEGO bricks.

# Answer
This is 41340: Friendship House

keyparts :
> 11 votes

---
Tags: set-identification
---


title: LEGO Dacta Intelligent House

text:
# Question
Title: LEGO Dacta Intelligent House
I obtained an LEGO Dacta 9707 Intelligent House set plus the Interface B:

By searching on BrickLink for the set, I found out that there was an Activity Pack for use with Control Lab software.

If someone has the software and guide for DOS/WIN (item 9708), please let me know ;)

# Answer
As mindstormsboi says, you can find it on archive.org here
> 4 votes

---
Tags: software, dacta
---


# Question
Title: Are there LEGO sets designed for adults?
Other than the LEGO Architecture sets are there any other sets or series that were designed principally for an adult audience?

# Answer
> 9 votes
I don't think there's any LEGO set for which the age target goes any further than 16+.

Within the 16+ range, you'll find several sets, mostly in the exclusive sets (series 10xxx): mainly modular houses and some Star Wars UCS sets. Usually these are sets with a high parts count and a price to match.

There's a functionality to filter sets by age on shop.lego.com, but it doesn't seem to work properly. Neither Brickset or Bricklink appear to offer such a functionality (yet).

# Answer
> 3 votes
As of 2020 there is now an entire range of "18+" sets targeted at adults. 35 sets by the time of this answer. LEGO has even went to create a web page dedicated to adults promoting these sets.

---
Tags: sets, design
---


title: Looking for Adult LEGO

text:
# Question
Title: Looking for Adult LEGO
> Possible duplicate of:
>
> Are there LEGO sets designed for adults?

The pieces are smaller for higher resolution, the colors are not primary and there are more of them.

Does this exist? I had in mind the standard 4 by 2 brick becomes 8 bricks each with 4 by 2 pegs.

# Answer
> 9 votes
**Yes.** LEGO® may still be a toy, but it clearly a toy for all ages. Here are two examples:

# LEGO Architecture

LEGO Architecture is clearly aimed at adults.

From one of LEGO's press releases:

> With models developed in collaboration with architects, LEGO Architecture inspires future architects, engineers and designers as well as architecture fans around the world using the LEGO brick as a medium for reproducing esteemed structures. Fans of all ages can collect and construct iconic architectural sites, including: Frank Lloyd Wright’s Guggenheim Museum and Fallingwater, the Space Needle in Seattle, the Willis Tower and John Hancock Center in Chicago, New York’s Empire State Building and Rockefeller Center, The White House in Washington, D.C., Farnsworth House in Plano, Illinois and the Burj Kalifa in Dubai. Each LEGO Architecture set contains a booklet featuring step-by-step building instructions that is prefaced by exclusive, archival history, information and photographs of each iconic building, its design origin, its architect and its architectural features.

I'm sure there are some young architects out there, but this level of depth is more typical of adults.

# Serious Play

LEGO has also a corporate-focused play for adults called LEGO® SERIOUS PLAY®

> Build a better workshop with the LEGO® SERIOUS PLAY® program!
>
> The LEGO® SERIOUS PLAY® program is a radical and innovative process designed to enhance business performance through building with LEGO bricks.

# Answer
> 4 votes
LEGO has recently released a number of sets in LEGO Art series. Each set is designed to create an image which consist of multiple of tiny 1x1 round plates or 1x1 tiles and has plenty of extra parts to create one of several alternative images.

Example with Andy Warhol's Marilyn Monroe (31197)

Included pieces seen above allow you to make one of 4 iconic images:

Same goes with Star Wars The Sith (31200)

Three copies of this set allows you to create another much larger version:

# Answer
> 3 votes
As you indicate yourself, the best answers regarding your question and current LEGO are already given in the other post. If you are not restricted by "current LEGO", I know of two more options:

1. You might want to look at Nanoblocks which, while still a children's toy, has smaller bricks and a different color pallette. I don't know much about the quality of Nanoblocks - the plastic does seem cheaper than LEGO's.

2. Another option is to look at Modulex, but you cannot find new sets as this line of LEGO bricks was only produced briefly from 1963 to 1965\**. It was designed for adults (more specifically: for architects) as a system to build models of existing and planned buildings. Bricks are smaller, and have a different geometry (1:1 vs 5:6 for LEGO). Buying Modulex is expensive due to the limited production run and the fact that the last Modulex was produced 50 years ago. Bricklink does have Modulex items available for sale though, so you might find this something worth investigating further. There is a (not really updated) website for Modulex fans at MiniBricksMadness.

<sub>(source: minibricksmadness.com)</sub>

---

\**) Modulex continued to be produced until the early 1980s in limited quantities by Modulex A/S, as per this article(PDF)

# Answer
> 3 votes
I would think that the best way for adults to embrace LEGO (if you know basic coding) would to get into the Mindstorms and maybe build complex moving structures.

# Answer
> -4 votes
You could take a look at other non-LEGO brands targeting AFOLs. These can be more affordable, but also may be of a different quality.

---
Tags: afol
---


# Question
Title: What tool can get two 1x2 plates apart without damaging them?
Teeth and pliers tend to leave unsightly marks on the bricks.

Fingernails don't work too well.

What tool do you recommend to separate them?

# Answer
> 51 votes
You could try the great brick separator. Designed for this specific purpose, it's probably your best bet.

# Answer
> 21 votes
I normally use two big bricks: one on the top and one at the bottom. Then you push down while rotating.

# Answer
> 21 votes
Or you could use, guess what, a **new** brick separator:

(http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=96874)

# Answer
> 17 votes
In addition to the Brick Separator, there are some parts that work well for this

Original here.

# Answer
> 15 votes
There's the great LEGO Brick Separator that can be bought in the LEGO Online Shop:

I love this thing. It's just great if you want to take care of your nails and teeth.

# Answer
> 8 votes
I use a fingernail most times, or a guitar pick if the bricks are stuck too firmly.

# Answer
> 6 votes
I (and my sons) use a plastic knife designed for children. We found ours in IKEA (larger bricks for houses)

I have also used this lego tool with moderate success

# Answer
> 4 votes
A flat-style staple remover (as opposed to the jaws style) does well to maintain the surface of a stuck brickage. It also can be jimmied back and forth without much slippage.

# Answer
> 2 votes
You can always try the Official LEGO Brick Separator. It would probably take a couple to work best on 1x2s though - one on the top, one on the bottom.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Disclaimer: I haven't tried this personally.

You could use two removal-tools (one to grab the top piece, one to grab the bottom piece)

# Answer
> 0 votes
I usually put 1x2 bricks on the top and bottom of the stack of plates. This gives me enough leverage to break up the stack between the two plates. Afterwards, I remove the plates from the bricks.

# Answer
> -1 votes
I've separated several plates (and bricks too) with a simple spring-based hair clip.

---
Tags: tools, disassembly
---


title: Can I sell pre-built LEGO sets?

text:
# Question
Title: Can I sell pre-built LEGO sets?
So I was interested if it would be legal to sell LEGO sets that were built by me. Most likely on some sort of website whether it be my own or one like eBay or craigslist. Specifically:

* Could I make a profit legally if it isn't MOC?
* Would it be against any form of copyright?
* If they were to be glued together would that be an issue?
* If I were to make my own website but make credit to LEGO what would be the implications?

# Answer
Yes, you can sell used LEGO sets. In fact there is huge market for such sets due to, relatively, high product value even on second-hand market. People use local classifieds for local sales as well as global platforms like eBay, Bricklink for greater exposure.

> Could I make a profit legally if it isn't MOC?

It is worth noting, some used sets tend to sell for much higher value than they cost when were new. This is caused by demand, and usually because set being some kind of "special". So yes, you can make a profit.

> Would it be against any form of copyright?

You can sell pre-owned vehicles, electronics, household items and this is known to be a norm. How is selling used LEGO different from this?

> If they were to be glued together would that be an issue?

Yes, you need to state your model is glued, as it is expected that LEGO model/set can be disassembled for parts.

> If I were to make my own website but make credit to LEGO what would be the implications?

You need to follow LEGO Fair Play and you'll be alright.
> 7 votes

---
Tags: sets, shopping, glue
---


# Question
Title: How to sort complete sets from box of unsorted LEGO
My son has thousands of pieces of LEGO, but he has them all dumped in a box. Is there any way to figure out what sets they went to if I don't remember the names of them?

# Answer
First thing to do would be to get together any building instructions you have and attempt to build those sets one at a time noting any missing elements as you go.

Once this is complete and if you still have unsorted pieces, you could use a website such as Bricklink.com to try to identify the sets and then use Peeron.com to source the building instructions for that set.

To begin this process, try to select an odd looking piece that is uncommon in your collection. Use Bricklink to try to identify the piece and then click through to the catalog entry for that piece to see the list of sets that piece is included in. You can follow the links to get an inventory of the selected set and then see how many of the required pieces you have in the unsorted box.

This is not an exact science and will require a fair amount of trial-and-error, not to mention time, but these two websites are two of the best LEGO resources available for such a task.
> 16 votes

# Answer
**Before you start:**

* It can be a big help to sort the parts, at least in some rudimentary way. Sorting by colour is least helpful, by shape much better.
* Don't dismantle partial assemblies until you've either (a) identified the sets that they come from or (b) you're sure they won't help you identify particular sets.

**To help you identify the sets**:

* Search through anything that you've got that is made of paper - sticker sheets, instructions, boxes or bits of boxes, etc. These often have set numbers on them, or pictures from which you can identify sets.
* If you find a part with a number printed / stickered on to it, that number could well be a set number.
* Find other bricks with stickers or designs. These can be a good indication of the kind of sets they are from.
* Look for other unusual parts or parts in unusual colours. Minifigs and their accessories are a good starting point.
* Look for partially completed models that look like they come from sets. It is usually easy to tell the difference between something that a child's build from something that was designed by LEGO.
* Look at the general mix of parts. Lots of bricks that are 2 studs wide suggests that they come from basic building sets, whereas 1-stud wide parts are more likely to be walls for buildings. Lots of grey could indicate Star Wars sets. It is fairly easy to identify Bionicle and Technic parts.
* Most collections of LEGO span a decade or so, so you can limit the identification process to the if you can guess the era covered by the collection - either from your child's age, from any sets you can identify, or from individual parts that were only made for a short time. Remember, however, that this is not a hard-and-fast rule - many collections have sets / bricks from outside their core collecting years.
* Bare in mind that LEGO often produce several quite similar sets. For example, if you think you're fairly sure you've got a fire engine but can't find half the parts you expect, then you're probably trying to find the parts from the wrong fire engine.

**Get to know the following reference sites**:

If all else fails, post pictures of the less common parts here and we'll see if we can help identify the sets that they're from.

**Finally:**

* Don't despair if you can't sort everything out. LEGO is about creativity, not just the sample designs that LEGO supply!
> 14 votes

# Answer
Here's what I did after finding a couple of old LEGO boxes stashed away in my parents' house.

1. Create a user and log into Rebrickable.com.
2. Under 'My Parts', create a new part list, and start adding your parts using their catalog. They have a very good search engine and you can quickly find most, if not all, of the exact parts.
3. Once done, go to the 'Build' section, where you can see which LEGO sets you can build from your part list. It gives you a percentage so e.g. if you have a set with 91% match, then that's probably the original set, and you're just missing a few odd parts.

I did all that (took a while, had over 800 pieces to catalog....), figured out which sets are the most probable ones, and ordered the missing parts (usually from BrickLink.com) to complete them.

It was really an excitement to see some 30-year old lego sets being built again :)
> 7 votes

# Answer
The Brick Manager app might be helpful with sorting the sets. It keeps track of all pieces that you've found and which are still missing.

Note: I am the developer of the app, and my post is a genuine attempt to help the topic starter and others facing the same issues.

Here's a description of the app from the app page on the Play store:

> You have a huge collection of unsorted bricks and a lot of instructions of all sets that belong to the bricks. It's a huge job to collect all the parts from the unsorted bricks.
>
> This app will help you to keep track of all the parts that you've collected so far and all the remaining parts.
>
> This is how it works:
>
> * Enter a set number. The app will collect all set information and will display it in a nice way on the screen
> * Then the app will present a list of all parts and minifigs that belong to the set in a clear and user-friendly way
> * In this list you can indicate which parts you've already collected

The app is built using the Rebrickable API and is also listed on Rebrickable.com.
> 5 votes

---
Tags: sets, organisation
---


# Question
Title: Is it possible to power Boost or Powered Up hubs using wall current instead of batteries?
I'm working on a project using LEGO Boost that I'd like to keep it powered on for a long period of time. The Boost hub itself does not move, so I'd like to power it using an AC adapter instead of using batteries to save myself time and money changing them out.

# Answer
> 6 votes
This isn't possible out of the box, and there aren't currently any adapters available from TLG to support this as far as I know. I did come up with a modification to make this possible, though.

My goal was to allow me to modify the hub to receive external power in a way that did not damage the hub and would be totally reversible. Ideally, I wanted a solution that could also still work with batteries without having to undo the modifications.

I started by removing the contacts that connect the battery holder to the main hub. These could probably be left in, but the next step is to solder wires to them, and I wanted to make sure I didn't melt any plastic.

Now we solder on some wires. I chose to use Dupont connectors here so that I would have a very small and detachable connection.

Now we put the battery terminals back.

A nice feature of this setup is that in its current state, batteries can be installed and the box still fits perfectly inside the hub.

From here, you could probably get away with running wires directly out of the hub if you didn't mind it not closing completely. If you didn't mind damaging the hub, you could also cut or drill a small notch at the bottom for the wires. I opted to run the wires out of some holes that already exist in the bottom of the hub.

From there, it's simply a matter of connecting the two wires to a suitable 9V supply. If you attempt this yourself, it is critical to match the voltage and polarity of the batteries, or you risk damaging your hub.

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Tags: powered-up, boost
---


# Question
Title: Can Lego Education WeDo 2.0 be controlled without using the app?
I would like to use WeDo 2.0 creations with a simple controller that would turn the motor on/off as in the Lego Education Simple and Powered Machines. Is this possible in WeDo 2.0 or do you have to use the app ?

# Answer
> 3 votes
This is not possible currently using any of the hardware and software provided officially by TLG. However, there are several solutions that might work for you if you have a spare Arduino or Raspberry Pi around and are willing to do a little programming.

If you aren't aware, all of the Powered Up elements communicate via a Bluetooth protocol that TLG provides documentation for. There are several open source projects that make use of the API to interact with Powered Up devices.

If you have an Arduino available, you could try the Legoino project. This is capable of interacting with both Powered Up remotes and Powered Up hubs, so you can program it to interface between the two and provide remove control. Here's a video showing that setup in action controlling Boost:

If you have a Raspberry Pi or spare computer around, you might be more interested node-poweredup or pylgbst.

---
Tags: education, wedo
---


# Question
Title: LEGO Plastic Bag - White, Light Grey and Clear Bricks
I received a sealed bag of LEGO with no instructions and I have no idea on how to build things out of it. When I scanned the QR code on the plastic bag, it gave me a number - 617-2062 but I got no information out of it. Please help to identify the LEGO Plastic Bags as per photo attached.

# Answer
According to BrickLink, there are only two sets with both that hinge plate and the eyelashes and they're quite similar: 10717 Bricks Bricks Bricks and the almost-identically-named 11717 Bricks Bricks Plates
> 4 votes

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification
---


# Question
Title: Can you remotely control Lego Education WeDo 2.0 creations using the WeDo app?
I wonder if the WeDo 2.0 app has remote control capabilities or is it only about programming the creations and then running the programs?

# Answer
Apparently, no.

I've seen a few videos about Lego Wedo 2.0, and from what I can tell, it doesn't have it. One video shows a few of the models and some of the user's programs, but he doesn't mention even a *virtual* remote control and if it existed he would've because it's an obvious key feature for robotics. This was made without the official app and I bet that its creator wouldn't have bothered making it if the official app already had the option to make remote control.

Lego Boost, Control+, PoweredUp, and EV3 have virtual remote control though.

I found an intresting "remote control".
> 2 votes

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Tags: remote-control, wedo
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# Question
Title: How do I print images onto minifig body parts?
I have seen a few custom minifigures out there with images on certain body parts never produced by LEGO. What is the best way to achieve this? I have heard of some people printing out the image on paper and gluing it, but I don't want to do that. That would look horrible even if I got the background of the picture to be the same color as the plain piece. I've also heard of printing an image onto sticker paper and applying it. That would probably work on a torso, but probably would do a bad job of deforming around legs, heads, or certain types of helmets. Anyone got any other ideas?

# Answer
You can do that with scale model water decals. You can buy that in blank sheets and print out your designs with an inkjet printer. You can also use products that help those water decals set (adhere) and conform to the surface deformation and use scale model varnishes to seal it in place.

Shopping list:

* Water decal sheets
* Setting solution (sticks better)
* Solvent solution (conforms to the surface)
* Varnish/Finish

As stated in this other question about painting Lego bricks: Don't expect it to sustain the normal usage of LEGO bricks. This is good for display or light usage (like playing D&D with custom minifigures)
> 25 votes

# Answer
The way that Lego does it is with whats called a "pad printer". Brickprinter.com also uses a pad printer. It takes a lot of skill to get the printing to work correctly. You have to have the proper amount of solvent in the ink to get it to adhere to the part and not smudge. The solvent also softens the ABS plastic so that the ink actually embeds into the part.

Pad printers are also quite expensive. On the order of tens of thousands of $$$ for one that will do multiple colors in sequence.

I've been looking at using special "direct to substrate" (DTS) printers. There is an inkjet printer that has a 5000+ dpi resolution, can print on ABS using solvent inks, can print on an object upto 2" thick, and also has the capability of printing pigmented white ink (so you don't have to only print on white bricks). This printer is also expensive, though not as expensive as a pad printer. Used on eBay runs about $5000.

For the general user, it's probably best to stick with water slide decals, since the average cost of a 8.5"x11" sheet of decal paper is about $1. There are different kinds of paper (inkjet and laser), so make sure you get the right kind for your printer. Laser printed decals do not REQUIRE a clear coat to protect them, but I still do.

I also use an ALPS printer that uses resin based inks. The printer has been discontinued, but the supplies are still available. Generally colors are printed in layers, but in addition to the cyan, yellow, magenta and black ribbons, there are metallic silver, metallic gold, chrome silver, chrome gold, chrome magenta, chrome cyan and the most important color, white. This allows ALPS owners to lay down a layer of white (opaque), then add the semi-transparent (cyan, yellow and magenta) inks on top. Kodak used to make a printer (First Check) that used compatible ink cartridges and they also produced a Red, Blue, Green and Orange ink. Useful if you can find them, but pretty much impossible to find.
> 13 votes

# Answer
I am a principle in an imprinting facility, that services clients from automotive to toys and beyond:

http://www.ableprint.com/

In the past couple of years we have had the opportunity to service companies that wanted us to print their designs on LEGO pieces. To make it easier for other users to get an idea what it would cost was to dedicate a web page to those prices:

http://www.ableprint.com/legos.html

Any pad printer with multi-colored equipment should be able to perform this service, maybe even at a lower price.
> 4 votes

# Answer
just looking around I see that used pad printers are not really so expensive if you plan to do a lot of bricks you might look into getting one here.

http://www.brickprinter.com/
> 0 votes

# Answer
There is a solution: http://www.wayprinter.com, see also a video showing printing on Lego bricks.
> 0 votes

# Answer
You could try UV printing, but they cost a lot. Maybe try searching for budget UV printers. I am also looking for one.
> 0 votes

# Answer
How about transfer paper (also known as water slide paper). I've seen my friend do it on some of his parts and it works great!

I'm looking to use it on my mocs too.
> 0 votes

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Tags: minifigures, customization
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# Question
Title: Looking for instructions to Mega Bloks “Blok Bots” 9356 set
I need instructions for Mega Bloks "Blok Bots" set 9356. Can't find it on https://support.megabrands.com/en-us/instructions

# Answer
I found this thread on Reddit:

(https://www.reddit.com/r/buildingblocks/comments/2t9xew/archive\_of\_old\_mega\_bloks\_instructions/ )

It has a link to a zip file with instructions from the old mega bloks site.

It contains instructions for 9356 and 9528.
> 6 votes

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Tags: instructions, clone-brands
---


# Question
Title: Can you identify this robotic minifigure?
I am trying to identify this minifigure. I thought it was related to Star Wars but I can not find it there. Can you help?

# Answer
This is :

sp043 : UFO Droid - Blue (Techdroid 1)
> 7 votes

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Tags: minifigures, minifigure-identification
---


# Question
Title: What piece is this and what is its purpose?
I am very confused on what this is. The only numbers on it are 8-01 and I searched for this and nothing comes up.

# Answer
> 14 votes
We call them space binoculars. They're like binoculars, but in space!

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Tags: part-identification, piece-information
---


title: Identify Tan Solider caps

text:
# Question
Title: Identify Tan Solider caps
Cany anyone identify the small tan caps worn by the soldiers in this clip?

# Answer
It looks like a cavalry cap, apparently also known as a kepi.
> 1 votes

---
Tags: part-identification, minifigures
---


title: Sort the program list on EV3

text:
# Question
Title: Sort the program list on EV3
When uploading a project to the EV3 brick, is there a way to control the sorting order of the programs on the brick?

E.g: Prog\_1 Prog\_2 Prog\_3 ...

When playing a robot match in FLL one often needs to start a number of programs in a pre defined order, but we are unable to sort the program list. Resulting in much time waisted looking for the correct program.

# Answer
> 2 votes
Not without hacking the firmware, which would be against FLL rules.

One solution I have seen many teams use it to only write one program. This program has it's own menu (that you have to make yourself as part of the program) that calls subprograms (presumably saved as My Blocks).

# Answer
> 2 votes
There's not an easy way to do it, but a workaround I've found is to go to the project management tab (which is the wrench icon next to the programs at the top of a project) and export each program using the export button at the bottom. Then, delete all the programs from the project and reimport them in reverse order from you want them to appear on the robot. Make sure the program you want to appear first in the list is open when you click download, and the programs should be in the correct order.

# Answer
> 1 votes
There is no way besides running the programs in the opposite order of which you need it to be. If it doesn't work try again.

---
Tags: ev3, programming, fll
---


title: Rendering the wrath of a vengeful god

text:
# Question
Title: Rendering the wrath of a vengeful god
I'm planning on doing the Indiana Jones Face Melting Scene. At time frame 1:08 of that clip, you can see arcs of energy going out from the Ark, devouring the Nazi soldiers. My current plan is to use the transparent neck bracket with 2 studs, then attaching transparent red or green bars to that to make the energy arcs. However, the arc is depicted as going out in a sort of cone or fan shape, rather then in straight lines. Is there a way I can attach some bars to the back of a figure at an angle (33-45 degrees or so)?

Or is there another way altogether I can approach this?

# Answer
> 7 votes
One way you could achieve that is to use Minifigure, Utensil Posing Stand, Bar with Hollow Stud with the bracket you've mentioned. Not entirely sure of an exact angle, but it looks to be close to 45°/135° angle.

---
Tags: design
---


title: Is this antenna a LEGO piece?

text:
# Question
Title: Is this antenna a LEGO piece?
I came across this piece while sorting:

It appears to be similar to 2569, but it's clearly a different part. 2569 doesn't have the ridges and has a spherical tip rather than the cylindrical one on this part. The parts are roughly the same length.

I didn't see the word LEGO anywhere on the part, so I strongly suspect this is from a knockoff brand, but I wanted to make sure before I remove it.

# Answer
> 13 votes
I've never seen that part until now, and it's certainly not in the antenna or bar bricklink categories. I'm fairly confident it's not LEGO.

However, it would be far more interesting to know what it is, but that's not easy to search. A few Mega Bloks parts have been catalogued, but your part isn't there either (I could only check categories bar, weapon and tool/gear before I got sick, though). Considering that database is far from complete, it doesn't mean it's not Mega Bloks, though.

Actually, I think there's a good chance it IS Mega Blocks: the antennas on the Repzyllian Trekker and the Gyro Fighter look very much like yours.

# Answer
> 7 votes
I have one and it is Mega Bloks. You can clearly tell the difference as Mega Bloks always appear lesser quality with slight ridge markings. I got mine from a bundle including Lego, Mega Bloks and COBI. But as Mega Bloks has very limited search facility there are no catalogue numbers

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
---


# Question
Title: Are there more LEGO minifigures than humans?
In 2014 Randall Munroe of XKCD predicted that there would be more minifigures than people by 2019.

Was he correct? Have we reached the crossing point, and if so, when? If not, when will we?

# Answer
> 9 votes
To get the official info, I have asked LEGO about this topic:

> Dear LEGO, in 2003 you have reported that there are (were) 4.000.000.000 LEGO minifigures produced by that time. I was wondering if there are more recent numbers available, especially since the popularity of the collectible minifigures, which could indicate an increase in the production rate.
>
> Could you please provide some official information? Even estimates would be welcome.
>
> Thank you!

And received the following reply:

> Thanks for getting in touch with us.
>
> Thank you for your interest in LEGO® Trivia, that is an interesting question.
>
> You are certainly right that the number should have increased drasticly since then but I can't give you any new numbers. I am sorry but you will have to wait till our marketing department decides it is time to release more fun facts like this.

So in the absence of official numbers, we can only guess.

# Answer
> 6 votes
Although it is impossible to be sure without more information from the LEGO Group, it seems likely the answer is **yes** (both now, and when the question was asked)—at least when you consider all minifigures ever produced, ignoring whatever minifigures have somehow been destroyed.

In early 2015, Lego reported that "Over the years more than 5 billion minifigures have been produced". This is in the 2015 company profile which I found on the Internet Archive. This was published on February 25, 2015, together with their 2014 Annual Report, so I think we can assume it reflects the state at the end of 2014/beginning of 2015.

In their 2015 report (also available on the Internet Archive), they said "In 2015, we made more than 725 million LEGO® minifigures globally."

Assuming that they've produced at least that many minifigures annually since then (and if anything, I would expect the annual production to have increased), then over the course of 2018, the number of minifigures ever produced would grow from 5,000,000,000 + 725,000,000×3 = 7,175,000,000 to 5,000,000,000 + 725,000,000×4 = 7,900,000,000.

At some point during the year the number would have been equal to the human population, which estimates place somewhere between 7.44 billion up to 7.63 billion in 2018.

---
Tags: minifigures
---


# Question
Title: Why isn't the Sad Clown's torso in Stud.io?
I was working on designing a clown minifig and I found the 973pb1398c01 Torso 3 Black Pom Poms Pattern / White Arms / Black Hands that seemed perfect for it, but it turns out that it isn't in Stud.io.

So, am I using the wrong tool for designing minifigs? Is there an easy way to get new parts like this into Stud.io? Is there an explanation for which parts are available?

# Answer
> 7 votes
Stud.io only has a small selection of printed parts, but there is hope. Stud.io’s Part Designer tool can help you with your clown torso. Here’s how:

1. Using a paint tool (like Windows’ Paint3D), save only the center bit of the torso to a PNG file, using the above torso image as your master.
2. Open up Part Designer and choose the option to modify a part. Search for the torso part (Part Designer does not care about the color).
3. Once the torso part is loaded, choose to add a decoration using the proper option in the left side menu (bottom-most option in my version).
4. Now open up your PNG file and position it over the torso so that the pompoms line up with the middle of the torso.
5. Save your part, import it back into Stud.io, go to your Custom part library (selector on the top left side of your screen above the Parts Library) and use the torso as you want.

All these steps shouldn’t take more than a few minutes. Good luck!

---
Tags: minifigures, software, bricklink-studio
---


title: Help with my Ev3 printer

text:
# Question
Title: Help with my Ev3 printer
I'm building an image printer using my ev3 set and several more pieces, as a project to keep me occupied while I'm stuck at home.

Here's how it looks:

I've done the build part, the way I've chosen to do this is by converting my image to binary (B/W) and reading each number in my binary array, then drawing a dot if there's a *1* or skipping the dot if there's a *0*.

I'm using Ev3 Python, as that's the language I know and I found it easiest to program in, but after I created my program my brick doesn't seem to process it properly and my brick weirdly starts to draw dots in the same spot, then instantly starts to move its top arm in the same direction for much longer than its programmed to, then sort of just stops its paper-moving wheels and starts doing more weird movements.

I tested my program's values before I wrote the program, it can draw 2 dots in a line correctly spaced out, but it starts doing weird things when I give it a whole line of data to draw.

Here's my code:

```
#!/usr/bin/env pybricks-micropython
from pybricks.hubs import EV3Brick
from pybricks.ev3devices import Motor
from pybricks.parameters import Port
import time

ev3 = EV3Brick()

LR = Motor(Port.C)
UD = Motor(Port.D)
FB = Motor(Port.B)

def pendown():
    UD.run_target(40, 40)
def penup():
    UD.run_target(40, -40)
def nextline():
    LR.run_target(40, 300)
    FB.run_target(40, 30)
def nextdot():
    LR.run_target(40, -30)

byteval = '''
0000000000100100001001000000000000100100001111000000000000000000
'''

bytevalues = list(byteval)

# wait a bit
time.sleep(5)

# define grid limit

x_limit = 8
y_limit = 8
number_of_cells = x_limit * y_limit;
x = 0
# scan grid and perform action depending on cell value

while x < (number_of_cells):
    z = bytevalues[x]
    if z == '1': #draw a dot
        pendown()
        penup()
        nextdot()
    elif z == '0': #go to next cell value
        nextdot()
    x+=1
    if (x % x_limit) == 0: #go to next line
        nextline()

```

\[I'm using an 8-Bit happy face as my image\]

I don't know why this weird movement is happening, I don't think it should, please help me with this issue.

# Answer
> 4 votes
You are using the function run\_target... which tells the motor to run to a specific angle. So it turns to an absolute position...

This might be correct for the pen\_up and pen\_down cases, but I think that for the movement, you want relative movement, i.e. relative from your current position, hence I think the instruction you need is run\_angle instead of run\_target.

---
Tags: ev3, programming, pybricks
---


# Question
Title: Can you identify this modified 1x1 plate?
Please can you identify this LEGO piece. I need to know what the name is from this piece.

# Answer
It's appears to be either Part 4081a or Part 4081b.

I'm not sure if it is exactly the same, but this works as a starting point, I believe. The two linked pieces seem to differ only in the thickness of the ring of the added "limb".

I was unable to find a part like those that has a "hole" in the main stud.
> 5 votes

---
Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
---


title: Identify "dark blue wing"

text:
# Question
Title: Identify "dark blue wing"
Not sure even if it is a wing or maybe it is a fin or a stabilizer or completely something else:

* I have three of them
* Identical pieces and also top/bottom sides are identical
* No ID nor any text/graphics on them.

# Answer
> 6 votes
That's Flag 5 x 6 Hexagonal (x1435). The lack of any numbers explains why "x1435" was used to catalog the piece, back in time when official part numbers were unavailable. Dark Blue coloured element was available in 6 sets.

---
Tags: part-identification
---


title: Linear Actuator Clicking

text:
# Question
Title: Linear Actuator Clicking
I have just finished working on a mock-up landing gear deployment mechanism, keeping it as simple as possible of course.

However one thing that I cannot seem to get rid of, is the small linear actuator's built-in overload protector from clicking.

I have tried to add a white clutch gear meshed to an 8 tooth gear in either 3:1 or 1:3 ratios but it still clicks.

If I use a 3:1 ratio the clicking and vibrations are obviously much more rapid than otherwise.

To save space, I insisted on having a fixed, almost parallel LA rather than the typical design where the LA is also pivoting like a lift-arm.

The wheels must be retracted by 90 degrees (you'll see this if you build it/watch the video)

Does anyone have any ideas on how to eliminate this whilst keeping it simple? I tried replacing the 2 x 4 bent lift-arms with a what equates to 1.5 length lift-arms so that the LA does not fully retract and start clicking but then it does not do a full 90 degrees of movement and starts bending parts if I force it.

Here is an .LXF file and below is a video showing what I mean:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOmrNr0WwWI

I'll be able to shorten or remove some beams soon to make it less clunky.

# Answer
As both the LXF file and the video are unavailable, I can only guess at the problem you are facing. But if the linear actuator is clicking, it means the built-in clutch is engaging, as the forces keeping the actuator from moving are too large. This can't be solved by adding a clutch gear (even with gearing), as if the newly added clutch gear is rated to slip at a lower force, it will slip before the linear actuator, and if it starts to slip at a larger force, the linear actuator will still start clicking first.

The best way would be to redesign the linkage to require less force to operate, but it might not be possible in your case:

> To save space, I insisted on having a fixed, almost parallel LA

This rules out another possible solution: doubling the linear actuators involved, as two parallel linear actuators will start clicking at a doubled force.

The only remaining advice I can give is to reduce the forces involved, either by attempting to redesign the linkage, or incorporating other means to provide force to assist the linear actuator, like springs, rubber bands, torsion bars, flexible elements, pulleys or even counterweights.
> 2 votes

---
Tags: technic, moc, set-modification
---


# Question
Title: Is there a way to move items from quote back to basket?
I requested a quote on a set of parts. Got it, it was too expensive in terms of shipping, but it turns out I had only 18g of parts, when shipping would cover up to 100g. Is there a way to move parts back to my cart, so I could add additional 82g of bricks without clicking it all again? I understand some parts might not longer be available or change price. I don't really care, I just want to avoid looking them up again.

# Answer
No. You cannot put items from quote back to cart, but there is a better option.

As per help topic on Bricklink:

> You can add quote items to a wanted list at any time by clicking the **Add Quote Items to Wanted List** button on the quote summary page

Here how it looks in your quote (just at the bottom of your item list):

Once you click on that button you have an option to add items from your quote to an existing Wanted List or create a new one. This then allows you to have a list of items from quote that you can use to buy in other stores too, not just the one you've requested a quote from.

More details on how to use wanted lists when buying parts can be found in another help article on Bricklink.
> 4 votes

---
Tags: bricklink
---


# Question
Title: Have LEGO stickers changed materials over time?
LEGO has produced a lot of stickers over the years. In a LEGO discord someone asked

> I wonder if LEGO has always used the same adhesive for their stickers, it seems like the colors, sizes, and texture of stickers determine how well they age.

So, has LEGO changed their materials for the stickers over time? Has the paper gotten thinner or thicker? Has the glue changed? Does any of that change how well these things survive over decades?

# Answer
**Note**. Speaking from my experience from year 1990 onward. During this time I can distinguish at least 3 periods of different experience with stickers.

---

From 1990 till sometime before 2000 (or early 2000's) there was period of superb stickers. Plastic was thick and glue was superb. I don't know what else LEGO used by then but most of them have survived my childhood abuse. Yes, they look rough, but they are there where I've placed them about 30 years ago. Both, clear and opaque.

Now second period begin somewhere early 2000's. Cannot tell exact period, speaking from experience of used sets I bought from that period. This is the worst time. Stickers applied onto sets during that moment not only cracking, but also peeling off badly. Plastic used for stickers seems to be thinner and glue is not as strong as it was before. Another odd thing is that different colors of the same stickers peel off differently. Some colors (like black) stick a little better (than white).

Last period is what I would call "modern" days. Must have started somewhere before 2013 when I have returned from dark age. Plastic for these stickers feels to be same thickness as previous period, but they seem to behave a little better. Perhaps not that much time has passed for them to deteriorate yet.

Looking at pre-1990 sets and minifigures some of them seem to have had paper based stickers (like minifigure torso prints). I have none of these, so cannot tell about their properties.
> 8 votes

---
Tags: history, stickers
---


title: Programming on a chromebook with EV3

text:
# Question
Title: Programming on a chromebook with EV3
How do I install the new Lego block programming software on a chromebook? We have the standard version, but want the new one that looks like Scratch.

# Answer
> 5 votes
Can you just install Scratch? MIT supports EV3 directly

# Answer
> 5 votes
The new Scratch-based software from LEGO Education is called *EV3 Classroom*.

The link on the LEGO Education EV3 downloads page for Chromebooks takes you to the EV3 Classroom app at the Google Play Store. So it seems that you will need a Chromebook capable of running Android apps in order to use it.

As of this writing, the equivalent retail version of the software doesn't seem to be available yet on platforms other than macOS.

---
Tags: ev3, programming
---


title: Quality of XSZ / KSZ sets on AliExpress

text:
# Question
Title: Quality of XSZ / KSZ sets on AliExpress
There's a LEGO-compatible brand called "Smartable" or KSZ (or XSZ, I can't tell) that appear on AliExpress. Do you know the quality of their parts?

# Answer
> 7 votes
From WP KO Bricks Wiki

XSZ / KSZ:

> Brick Quality: Not great. The ball joint sockets of constraction figs (Star Wars and Bionicles) can be tight and prone to cracking if forced too much. Only recommended as display models as these problems make them unsuitable for play.

---
Tags: clone-brands, bionicle
---


# Question
Title: Different brand, slightly bigger than Lego
I have a set of Technic bricks used by an academy for teaching robotics to children.

They are not compatible with Lego (I think that the pitch is 9mm instead of the 8.6mm of the original Lego design).

I would like to buy additional components, so I wonder if there is any known brand or shop that sell these type of bricks (including Chinese manufacturers or AliExpress stores, for example).

Edit: added image. At some components I can read HND##, but searching for HND I only find Haneda airport in Japan

# Answer
Taking an image from the linked course site and using Google Image Search for reverse image searching, then applying a layer of Google Translate to make sense of the exclusively Japanese results has convinced me that this type of building system is only used in this robotics course in Japan. Nonetheless, the institution seems to sell the sets as standalone products for 28,500 yen, unless I misunderstand the translation results somehow:

> At Human Academy's Robot Class, we will increase the number of kits that will be added when advancing the course, based on the standard kit (\* 1) that you purchase when you join.
>
> \[...\]
>
> (\* 1) 28,500 yen 〚tax excluded〛
> 3 votes

---
Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
---


# Question
Title: What is this LEGO minifigure with huge teeth?
Does anyone know what minifigure this is?

# Answer
This minifigure is Atlantis Hammerhead Warrior.

However it is missing its headgear - Minifigure, Headgear Head Cover, Hammerhead Shark with Eyes and Light Bluish Gray Lines Pattern pictured here:
> 19 votes

---
Tags: minifigure-identification
---


# Question
Title: Please help identify this LEGO set that has owls and snakes?
I cannot identify this LEGO set my grandma gave to me. I want to help her build it for my cousin, but my grandma did not have the instructions.

# Answer
> 18 votes
That white snake appears in two sets, and in quantity either one or two. My best guess is that it was from a Pick-a-Brick wall at a Lego Store, or something very similar. I'm basing this on the many, many repeated pieces.

---
Tags: set-identification, pick-a-brick
---


# Question
Title: Building techniques for designing a LEGO City Street scene?
As the question suggests...

I'm trying to build a city street in "midiscale" similar to that of Hong Kong, but I have no idea on where to even begin with something like this. This project is being built in LDD 4.3.10.

I can't build skyscrapers and cityscapes for the life of me, but I want to create a city street to replicate a scene from one of my favorite movies, hence me asking this question. I can't find any decent `.lxf` files that even remotely fit this bill.

The scene I want recreate is from Pacific Rim (the first one), where Gipsy walks into Hong Kong with a boat bat to face Otachi. This is the scene I want to create:

I have the Jaeger and the Kaiju, it's just the cityscape that I don't have.

Does anyone have any building techniques? Anything at all?

I know this is asking for a lot, but would anyone have a .lxf file that they would be kind enough to share?

Below are screenshots demonstrating the size of each of the entities, namely the Jaeger and the Kaiju. A Minifigure has been added to give a greater sense of scale -\>

Apologies for Otachi's right claw, hand thing not being on the ground. It is a pain in the butt trying to articulate these joints.

# Answer
# Calculations / Pre-process

1. I started off by guessing that your MOCs are about 7 minifigs tall. If a minifig is 4 bricks tall that makes the overall height 28 bricks tall.
2. It looks like the tallest buildings are about 20 stories tall and the shorter buildings are 5 stories tall.
3. So you're looking at 4 plates or 5 plates per floor to build these. 4 plates per floor would end up with buildings 26.66 bricks tall. 5 plates per floor would lead to a 33.33 bricks tall building. Since the 4 plate version is closer to our goal height, and we can cheat by making a few of the lower floors an extra plate tall, that seems like the best way to go.
4. Then I took the picture and made a diagram of where I expect the buildings to go. Based on this it seemed like the building should be 12 or 15 studs per side.

# Process

I realize this question was asked for LDD, but since it is no longer supported I'm not going to fight with it. Stud.io or Mecabricks are actively maintained and supported. I'm a bit better at Stud.io so I'm going to proceed with that.

For organizational purposes I'm going to put each chunk into a step and name the step something logical. There is way too much in each step for LEGO standards, but I'm not worried about buildable instructions for now. If instructions become an issue these steps should be split up further.

1. I laid out a couple of baseplates and created some boring sidewalks for the main road where the MOCs are stationed in the picture.
2. Then I added a brick ruler that is 28 bricks high so that I could conveniently have a visual reference for the goal height from step 1 under Calculations. I did this with a stack of 2x4 bricks in alternating colors.
3. We needed more baseplates to go under the buildings so I added 2 more pn3811 32x32 baseplates.
4. I wanted to make sure the layout was going to transfer into bricks so I used 4x12 plates to layout the buildings from the sketch. This will also serve as a "basement" to get the buildings to start above the sidewalk tiles.  I added building numbers that will come up again later.
5. I put in 2x4 tiles to make the side streets. I went with Dark Bluish Gray to match the road baseplate color. Since I'm giving the side streets 6 studs of width the remaining 1 stud width on each side could be filled in with a curb or sidewalk. Filling in the road helped me realize I had a couple of buildings 1 stud off, so I was glad to catch and adjust that before it was more painful to fix.
6. There need to be something to tie the baseplates together so I put in a line of tiles 2 studs wide.
7. Whew, that's a lot of setup, but now we can get to working on one of the buildings. I want to make sure the closest tall building looks decent. I'm going to start by having a layer of plates that are inset by one stud and then a layer of bricks. I wanted to do something SNOT for the vertical feature of that building, but I couldn't think of an easy way to float the 87087 "Brick, Modified 1 x 1 with Stud on 1 Side" out there. I went with 1x4s jutting out and made it look like it goes up the whole building by filling in 1x4 plates. Once I got a floor I wanted to go with I turned it into a submodel. I then copied and pasted this submodel 19 more times. Once you have the 20 floors you can finish the top in a few was. I just through some plates on top to make it look uniform.
8. The next building down the street ("building 2") presents more challenges. I'm guessing it is 5 stores tall. The top 3 floors are one style and the bottom 2 are another. I'm guessing the bottom 2 are a parking garage. There's a lot of light coming out of the front of this. I'll leave the light issue as an exercise for the reader or a new question. There wasn't much chance of doing repeating elements so I didn't create any subassemblies for this building. The 27c01 windows aren't available in tan, but since this is all in the computer I'll cheat to keep it looking nice.
9. The last building on the main drag (building 3) is hard to tell much of anything in the picture. I bricked up a boring cube to fill the space. I turned two levels of bricks into a subassembly to make the repetition clearer.
10. The building behind building 2 (building 4) is obscured in the picture by building 1 so I filled in with another boring cube.
11. The building behind building 3 (building 5) is another 20 floor tall building. I made 4 layers of 1-wide plates that looked like an interesting approximation of the picture. I cheated again on some of the colors not being available in that plate size. I made the floor into a subassembly and repeated it 19 more times. I covered it with some plates.

# Final Top View

# Result

This isn't anything that I expect anyone to build. It needs lots of refinement, but I won't take that joy away from you! :) I hope this demonstrates the building techniques that you were looking for. If anybody wants the file I'll find a place to post it.
> 8 votes

---
Tags: building, ldd, city
---


# Question
Title: Question about the lantern pieces in the Winter Toy shop set
I have a question about the lanterns in the Winter Village Toy Shop. I'd like to just buy the parts to make a few of the street-lights in that set. However, from reading the instructions (steps 4 and 5 below) and looking at the globe part, it doesn't seem like it would be stable. It appears to be just resting inside a 2 x 2 dish, is that right? If so, is there a way to make something like this that's more stable. Or have I just misread the directions?

# Answer
I don't have this piece to check this assembly physically myself to confirm. However, the same design has passed TLG design review not once, but twice: first with 10199 set you mentioned in 2009 as well as 10249 six years later, which is updated version of 10199. So I'm rather confident there is no flaw.

Looking at the picture it seems like Cylinder Hemisphere 2 x 2 with Cutout sit underneath the round plate's ridge, thus making it stable.

I have built this assembly virtually. Here hemisphere is placed above round plate's ridge intentionally, to show the fact that hole diameter is smaller. Thus, by placing hemisphere below round plate (as it is shown in instructions) will block it from moving vertically.
> 4 votes

---
Tags: building, design
---


# Question
Title: How to disassemble LEGO train engine base part# 28743?
I have one of the new Bluetooth engines (part 28743, but in the bottom it says Hub No 5 model) that has started to under-perform and make some noises, I think that it need some maintenance (maybe due to cat hair) and I need to disassemble it.

The thing is that I can't see the screws properly. I think they are Torx ones but I don't know what size they are. Can someone provide the size and model of the key I need to acquire to take it apart? Any other advice is welcome, Google was not helpful.

# Answer
Here are some disassembly pictures and tips.

**Tools needed:**

* Either a precision flat-head or Philips screwdriver: There are two flat-head/Phillips hybrid screws that hold the the battery cover down. These two screws do not come completely out the battery cover.
* T9 Star Key: There are six T9 star screws. Four on the corners of the housing and two hidden inside the battery box.
* Magnets: Not required but helpful to keep the screws from getting lost.

The train has a headlight construction with two floating pieces that will fall out. There is a proper way these pieces go back in, so it's possible not to notice their right orientation.

The clear transparent piece has a "wave" that swells up to encompass and sit directly on the light element. So, the "wave swell" humping up is the top of this piece.

The white headlight diffuse has two squared off "vampire fang" tabs. Those tabs are the bottom of this piece.

Note: When reassembling, the white diffuse piece and the clear transparent piece have to be together FIRST, then TOGETHER, they are dropped directly down into it's spot. I found it difficult to put them in separately.

Wheel inspection: I would start with the heavier, but easier to access back wheels.

The positive and negative wires are still tethered to the board, but...

... it just flips up and out for an easy looky-look.

Now to get at the floating front wheels, first we need to flip up the circular speaker.

There's a green rubber button that sits in there too. See the top lip of the green thing? That top lip sits on top of the wheel's axle bar. When putting the wheel and axle back in, it's easy to poke it around reposition it back in it's place, so don't worry too much about it, just don't lose it.

Now it's time to gingerly pry up the green circuit board. When I was taking this apart, it seemed like there were two black tabs holding the board down, but I think those tabs are there to just keep it in place.

The two big (+) positive and (-) negative globs of solder seem to be doing double duty, both as electrical terminal points and as screws to keep the thing in place.

Now be careful. Look at the above picture. See the angle I pried up? Just enough to squeeze the wheels and axle out. Look again at those metal diode stalks coming down from the board at a 90 degree angle. Those are the bulbs for the train's light/color readers.

This next picture shows how those light/color readers look from underneath next to Mr. Green rubber button.
> 22 votes

# Answer
I was able to remove the screws properly with a Torx T9 screwdriver from our Duplo Train Push & Go Motor (28743).
> 6 votes

# Answer
I don't know if it helps, but there is a video about opening the train:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjTmENxCRrQ
> 1 votes

---
Tags: duplo, repair, bluetooth, disassembly
---


title: 12V LEGO train tracks splinter

text:
# Question
Title: 12V LEGO train tracks splinter
I have an older 12V LEGO train (several actually) but of course the rubber tires wore out long ago.

The trains still run quite well (I even used them as a motor parts in some Technic designs), but the pieces for the tracks have become very brittle, meaning that re-designing tracks has become a nightmare.

Just uncoupling the dark-gray underside from the light-gray rails is not just painful to watch but often leaves you with more pieces than you intended, particularly the small pinch-like top sections of the dark-gray parts splinter, as well as where they fit in the light-gray rails.

Similar things happen with the larger change-direction sections and cross-section parts, so it's imho mostly due the design click-on system that is failing.

What would you suggest on handling such pieces? Can these parts still be replaced?

# Answer
> 3 votes
While I can't speak of the handling of these parts, the possibility of receiving official replacement parts from TLG is surely zero. That leaves us only the second-hand market, which fortunately offers genuine LEGO replacement pieces, sometimes even in brand new condition. Note though, that even though the brittleness problem might stem from lots of play or improper storage (for example being stored assembled), if it is a property of the material being used for these parts, then other pieces made the same time of the same material will exhibit the same problems.

---
Tags: trains, repair, plastics, tracks, 12v
---


# Question
Title: When did Lego stop putting small catalogs into boxes?
In former times, all Lego sets used to come with a small catalog. This was either just a single leaflet with an overview of several themes (with a focus on new sets or subthemes), found in smaller sets, or a small booklet like a smaller version of the main catalog, just restricted to "minifig size" sets (when buying one of those minifig sized sets) and usually without any product descriptions (just set numbers), included in larger sets.

*Personal nostalgia anecdote: These catalogs were significant to me as a child because they would often grant the first glimpse at new sets of the upcoming year during the first few weeks of January before toy stores would get the first main catalogs.*

Recently, I noticed that current sets do not include this kind of catalogs anymore. **When did TLC change this habit?**

# Answer
To be fair, it is hard to tell and depending on definition you may even tell TLG has never stopped doing so. But it depends on the series.

Bricklink has a lot of catalogs in their item data base. Single leaflet catalogs are called "Mini" and small booklet ones are called "Medium". Catalogs you can find in store are called "Large".

While Bricklink's database can be considered the largest in terms of catalogs they have, for some reason they didn't record if any of these catalogs come in sets. So it is hard to say when/if did TLG stop including Mini and Medium catalogs. Looking at the data recorded in Bricklink I would assume 1999-2001 are the years when TLG stopped putting "Medium" catalogs into System/City/Technic sets. It also depends which series you are interested in, since Duplo kept getting their "Medium" catalogs for much longer. However you can also find that some of recently introduced Dots sets may have had catalog of "Mini" type in their 2020 range.
> 5 votes

---
Tags: history
---


title: LEGO train 60198 isn't working

text:
# Question
Title: LEGO train 60198 isn't working
Battery box on my LEGO train 60198 is flashing green and orange, then after few seconds it suddenly turns off itself.

I've tried resetting it by pushing the button on the train until it turns purple, but then straight away it starts flashing orange again. After that it turns off itself.

Please explain what is wrong with it.

# Answer
> 6 votes
LEGO guide shows the orange blinking appears when batteries are flat.

.

Have you tried using fresh batteries in your train?

# Answer
> 2 votes
I had exactly same issue with same model.

The battery box `HUB NO. 4` was blinking green (colour of connection) and orange.
I changed to brand new batteries.
Still the hub was blinking green (colour of connection) and orange.

As they mention above it's due to the batteries is out.

What I like to add and to highlight is that there is x6 batteries to change.
LEGO - Powered Up troubleshooting - Changing batteries

> Changing the batteries in your LEGO® Power Functions Train
>
> 1. Remove the LEGO Power Functions Battery Box from the train.
> 2. Remove the two screws on the bottom of the battery box.
> 3. Replace all six batteries with fresh, high quality AAA alkaline batteries.
>
> We don't recommend mixing brands or old and new batteries.

LEGO - Building instructions for 60198 - Book 3 pdf
See page 9 instruction 2.

In my case I been to lazy and didn't check any instruction.
I only open the box, change the 3 batteries I saw and mount it back.
After changing all of the x6 batteries issue solved.

# Answer
> 0 votes
Here are a few other suggestions for folks that are still struggling with this issue or something similar after putting in new batteries.

1. Pair the hub with your phone and update it to the latest firmware using the Powered Up app if you haven't already done so.
2. Try controlling the hub using your phone. This will help to isolate the problem to either the remote or the hub.
3. Pull the batteries out of both devices and just let them sit for a couple of minutes and then put the batteries back in.
4. Contact customer service. This obviously doesn't help much with Christmas morning strife, but if your hub is indeed faulty, TLG will be happy to replace it at no cost.

---
Tags: trains, powered-up
---


title: Identify LEGO set with "5T33R" sticker

text:
# Question
Title: Identify LEGO set with "5T33R" sticker
Tiny orange truck with license plate "5T33R". Also has "Steer Well" sticker, flames on the sides. Have searched and can’t find online.

# Answer
That stickered tile seems to only appear in set 8186 from 2009.
> 3 votes

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: What's the most effective way to align 1x1 tiles?
There are a number of sets (e.g., the Farnsworth House and the Parisian Restaurant) that use a field of 1x1 tiles to represent a tiled floor. I have found aligning these pieces such that they are all square to each other to be a challenge. What techniques can I try to achieve a nicely aligned grid of tiles?

For example:

# Answer
I will sometimes take another piece, i.e. a 1x4, next to the row I'm about to place so it helps align it. Then use the brick separator's flat end to adjust the 1x1 as needed. But I'm a little ocd about the tiles being lined up...
> 10 votes

# Answer
For a number of sets that I've had these in (the Minecraft Mirco-worlds and the Scientists Ideas set) they've also come with one of the new orange Brick tools.

You can use the edge of the tool to run along between the sides of the tiles and the next row of studs - I find this works better than using another plate or brick because the tool has more play over the studs so can actually get up against the edges of the tiles nicely.
> 5 votes

# Answer
My method is to use a 2x8 (or longer) plate like a pry bar. Put the 2-stud end on the studs next to the tiles and pry up a little and they line up like a charm.
> 1 votes

# Answer
Placement is key - line up before pushing all the way down onto stud. (Though this is easier for 1x1 bricks... Less so for tiles) Also the curved end of brick separator works nicely to make fine adjustments. Need to push and rock middle of edge of tile.. if you try the edge you always over shoot and end up pushing the other way too much.
> 1 votes

# Answer
If you have tweezers you can use them to grab the tile put it in place with them then push down.
> 0 votes

---
Tags: building
---


# Question
Title: What's the deal with the single-type-of-piece bags on Amazon?
While looking for current Lego offers on Amazon, I was surprised to see loads of offers such as:

* 10x Lego inverted slope 2x2 dark red
* 8x Lego plate 4x6 new dark grey
* 40x Lego Technic pin long with stop black
* 40x Lego plate 1x2 light gray
* 25x Lego brick 2x2 new brown

and so on.

It seems quite some of those parts come in ... peculiar colours, such as lime green or lots of browns, but I may be mistaken and this might change day by day.

What are those offers?

* Is that vendors who buy loads of original Lego sets, put the individual parts into larger bags of 5 to 50 pieces, and then sell them and somehow have a little revenue margin?
* Is that vendors that somehow get large quantities of the same pieces from Lego (e.g. through channels that allow toy stores to build up some custom scenery around the actual sets in showcases if there is such a thing) and then resell packs of such pieces?
* Or are those offers not for Lego pieces at all, but for some rip-off that fakes the brand logo on the studs?

# Answer
> 10 votes
I think it's really hard to tell for sure without actually making a couple of orders and seeing what arrives. What I can say is that it appears that they are selling at a HUGE markup over similar parts available on Bricklink. (A quick check shows an average markup of 600% over BL on several lots)

I would guess that either the first, third, or some combination of those two guesses is likely to be the case here. Since secondary markets like BrickLink and BrickOwl are somewhat niche sites maybe the seller(s) are taking advantage of people unaware of them and selling at a very good profit to a larger market. Additionally since Ali Baba, Ebay, and Amazon tend to have a large number of counterfeit sets available these sellers may be able to get away with selling all or a mixture of counterfeit parts to increase their margins.

As for your second guess, there are programs that The LEGO Group makes available to organizations of various sorts to acquire large numbers of pieces at fairly reasonable prices however they do tend to monitor the secondary market fairly closely for evidence the parts from those programs are being resold so, while certainly still possible, it is less likely the parts are being sourced that way.

Again though, it is nearly impossible to tell simply from the advertised lots without actually making a purchase to verify what you would get.

# Answer
> 4 votes
Great answer by Nathan Stohlmann.

I see another option why these could be sold on Ebay for higher price than you can find them on Bricklink.

3/5 bricks on your list may be not as interesting in AFOL's point of view. Yes, there are cases when you may need these specific elements, but such cases would be quite specific. I find that most Bricklink sellers tend to part out sets rather than sourcing specific elements in high quantities (however this is also an option some times). So seller end up selling most sought after elements and end up having a ton of these bricks nobody wants. One option (obviously) would be to sell them even cheaper than others hoping someone may become interested. But you may have simply too much of them or market is saturated. So, alternatively, you as a seller could explore another market places, like Ebay, where audience is much larger and is unaware of market prices for these elements.

# Answer
> 1 votes
The cheapest option to get elements in bulk is the pick a brick wall in Lego stores, or similar options in Legoland resorts. I know plenty of people who make their otherwise very expensive Lego hobby affordable by reselling those elements.

E-bay and Amazon are similar platforms in that you can reach a large market of people who aren't aware of this option or do not have easy access to a store nearby.

# Answer
> 0 votes
It's common for these sellers to be drop-shippers, using BrickLink stores as their fulfillment provider. All other comments apply.

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Tags: shopping
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title: How to share a fan robot with LEGO?

text:
# Question
Title: How to share a fan robot with LEGO?
I've made a really awesome robot with LEGO Mindstorms EV3 (and I'd like not to say what it is here). I've seen fan robots on the LEGO site, and I wonder whether they could add mine on the site. I've seen a site for uploading ideas for LEGO ***kits***, but I can't find anywhere to upload robots. Can anyone please help?

# Answer
> 3 votes
It looks like you don't quite understand how those robots became supported by Lego.

You see, EV3 was released in 2013, and they've supported only 12 fan robots. That's not a lot, and if they were still accepting fan robots for years they definitely would've had more robots on their site. I have an unofficial book by Laurens Valk about EV3 programming, in this book he has instructions for about 3 more of his robots. Yet none of them are on the site.

Why am I even mentioning a Lego fan and his book? Because this page says that the race truck was designed by him. That's the only model he made that's on their site, but there are some people who have had multiple models of theirs accepted by Lego. They are Martyn Boogaarts and Kenneth Madsen. And I could've sworn that I saw a video(s) somewhere where they were interviewing the designers of these robots.

Looks like they were only accepting fan robots from **skilled** EV3 users.

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Tags: ideas
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title: What LEGO set do I have?

text:
# Question
Title: What LEGO set do I have?
I gave my father a LEGO set to help with his dementia. He lost the box and directions. I don't know what the set is. It appears to be a car. There is a windshield and some wheels. It's mostly black and red. It looks like only 2 bags. I know I didn't spend more than $15 on the kit.

# Answer
> 19 votes
These parts are from:

42089: Power Boat

Keypart : 62360 - Trans-Black Windscreen 3 x 6 x 1 Curved

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Where do I find the program to go with the LEGO 51515?
I got a LEGO Mindstorms 51515, and I have finished building my 1st robot, and now would like to program it. However, I cannot find any companion program to use. Where can I install the companion program? (Also if there is a Linux program that can be used I would like to know).

# Answer
The "App" page does seem to be hard to find at the moment. I found it by clicking on this little icon on the MINDSTORMS "About" page.

The app is distributed through various app stores:

There isn't currently any option for Linux, but there is a 3rd party project call Pybricks that is working on supporting the 51515, so keep an eye on that if you use Linux.
> 6 votes

# Answer
According to this review on Rebrickable, the same app you download for the building instructions is the one you use to program it. Did you download an app for instructions?
> 2 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, software, robot-inventor
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