# Question
Title: Are either of these cars uncredited ripoffs from Rebrickable?
I'm no expert in searching Rebrickable, but turning up the minimum block count to over 3300 seriously cuts down on the number of matches. I've tried variations on the names and creative spelling, but I don't think I necessarily turned up *all* Technic cars with enough pieces. How might I better check that?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091SW3YJD

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PD9JMTY

# Answer
First of all Rebrickable isn't the one and only place to share your MOCs.

Next, there are several requirements for adding new MOCs: it has to have an inventory, free/paid instructions and design should be owned by you (or by someone from collaborative project). So you cannot simply add a model, created by someone else, just to keep its inventory in your collection.

Model designers own their designs, so they may add and remove/hide their creation from Rebrickable. And this have happened before. It doesn't mean some model wasn't ripped off if the model doesn't exist on Rebrickable. And here is why:

First picture in your question is a model of "Aston Martin Vantage GT 3" by DugaldIC. It doesn't exist on Rebrickable. But it is the work of a person that isn't mentioned.

Next model is Gumpert Apollo IE. I couldn't quickly identify author of this creation. But it has been produced by Lepin which isn't reputable brick model manufacturer. Use of "Nifeliz" brand may be used to appeal to be more reputable, but I would bet both brands being manufactured under same roof.

Again, both models are pretty sophisticated and aren't something your average Joe could built. It takes time and experience to create something like that. Offering a number of BIG and complex Technic models suggest me these weren't designed specifically for this brand but were sourced quickly via other means. There is a chance that model author actually agreed to sell his design. I don't remember if it was CADA who offered this? But the fact was that manufacturer was creating models no matter if MOC author agreed to be paid some small fee or not.

Other red flags include the the lack of Aston Martin and Gumpert licensing on a box as well as model naming, like "Ap***e***llo IE".
> 8 votes

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Tags: set-identification, clone-brands, moc
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# Question
Title: Where can I download the software for old RCX-era Mindstorms sets?
These days I've been coming across a lot of people who've purchased used MINDSTORMS sets from the RCX era, only to find they didn't come with a CD. And in order to use the set, assuming that using an alternate programming language is not an option, the buyer can either Buy a CD off Bricklink, or find a place to download the software.

While CDs aren't overly expensive, they're going to become harder to come by as time goes on, and being able to download the software is preferable since it's almost instant and doesn't cost money. LEGO technical support representatives have stated over and over again that they don't care about people copying and downloading their old software, so downloading their old software is perfectly legal.

Does anyone know a reliable place to download the software for the Robotics Invention System 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0? CD images are preferable, but working stand-alone installers are valid as well. Extra points to anyone who can also provide a place to download the software for the Vision Command, Ultimate Builders Set, Exploration Mars, Extreme Creatures, and Robo-Sports expansion packs. And super extra special points if someone knows where to get an iso for the Windows XP-specific Vision Command software and the Robotics Invention System promotional CD.

# Answer
I've found a seemingly broken website, but from the sources I was able to salvage these addresses, they work just fine (as far as the download goes, I did not check the contents):

Vision Command English:

Multi Software Download -\> English:

There are many other downloadables from this site:

As for the RIS ISO I've found this torrent but it looks like there is no recent activity, maybe one could ask the once-downloaders to seed for a while? https://www.demonoid.ph/files/details/2583886/004623788640/
> 6 votes

# Answer
There are a lot of ISO files with the Robotics Invention System (RIS) software on them. Here's one link:

http://www.brickfactory.info/iso/

These will only work on Windows.
> 4 votes

# Answer
RIS 2.0 ISO now up on archive.org https://archive.org/details/ris20
> 3 votes

# Answer
I have RIS 2.0 in GERMAN Language, which I backed up for myself and all other old LEGO Fans and uploaded it. I run it on Virtual WinXP, which is set up with Oracle Virtualbox. For the old RCX Tower I have bought USB to Serial Adapter - RS232 Converter and connected it to WinXP.

Here is the Link for German Software : https://www.mediafire.com/file/nbinswfcsxfujel/RIS2.ISO/file
> 2 votes

# Answer
there is also coach 5 & 6 software special for education. from CMA / amstel Institute ( University from Amsterdam). 1999 for the RCX1.0 and the RCX 2.0

https://adoc.pub/handleiding-coach-5-installatie-projecten-activiteiten-funct.html https://softadvice.informer.com/ext/https\_cma-science.nl/Coach-6 https://docplayer.nl/25036978-Installatiehandleiding-coach-6-lite-nl.html https://student.uva.nl/binaries/content/assets/studentensites/uva-studentensite/nl/a-z/ic/handleidingen-nl-en-en/coach-6-home-handleiding.pdf http://lkruise.nl/natuurkunde/opdrachten/leerlingbrief.pdf

reminder: not in the lite version and not in coach 7
> 2 votes

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Tags: software, rcx
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title: Identifying blue dragster?

text:
# Question
Title: Identifying blue dragster?
I have bought this model as is without building instructions. So I don't know if this is an original model or a fantasy car. I'm interested whether this is a original LEGO model, which one it is and if there are instructions available to rebuild it / let my son rebuild it.

I suppose it is older as there is a big figure in it (bigger than a minifig), with bendable arms.
special bricks: the motor parts are translucent

# Answer
Inclined to think this is someone's own creation rather than an original LEGO Model.

First hint, I could identify the 2x3 slope with the X on bricklink here: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3298pb016

And this element only seems to be available only in 3 sets, none of which are a blue dragster or even Technic sets for that matter.

Also, the sticker with the red X and the three lines is part 6567stk01 which only appears in one set, and should be applied on a 1x6 black brick, not on blue technic liftarm.

Likewise, searching for motor blocks (both types) in sets in trans-clear color also doesn't turn up anything.

There's also quite a bit of a mismatch between the elements in the model... studded Technic, non-studded technic, city elements, old tires, new tires,...

Also, the quality of the build and aesthetics are not up to the level of an actual Lego model in my opinion...
> 5 votes

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Tags: set-identification, instructions
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# Question
Title: What is a rubber technic beam with two axle holes?
I'm starting an inventory on Rebrickable, and came across a part that I can't find listed. I can describe it clearly enough and I know how it might be used (but not why it's better than the "normal" plastic), but I want to be able to add it to the tracked inventory in the database. So how do I "find" it on Rebrickable?

This looks just like a beam that has two axle holes and is made of rubber rather than ABS. It is a unit (not half-unit) thick.

# Answer
That sounds like Technic, Axle Connector Double - Flexible Rubber, known on rebrickable as Technic Axle Connector Double Flexible \[Rubber\].

It's used for various purposes - eg. when some extra "give" is needed, or some extra friction, or to dampen a movement, or ...
> 12 votes

# Answer
On Bricklink, it's called "Technic, Axle Connector Double - Flexible Rubber" - part number 45590

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=45590
> 9 votes

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Tags: part-identification, inventory
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title: 42082 crane boom doesn't engage

text:
# Question
Title: 42082 crane boom doesn't engage
At the top of the sleeve part of the boom is a gear and that is supposed to turn against a rack of teeth all along the inner slide part of the boom extension, to make the boom longer or shorter.

However, it just spins but does not grab the rack. The inner boom piece slides back in under its weight without resistence. If I push down on the thing that holds the axle, I can get it to work as long as I'm holding it.

In the photo you can see I slip a piece of paper along the line where they should be meshing.

How can I tighten up the clearance/tolerance on this part in a normal Lego manner, rather than briging in other materials or modifying the standard shape?

# Answer
> 9 votes
According to the instructions the 8 tooth light gray gear you have now should be a black 12 tooth bevel gear:

I.e. replace this one:

by this one:

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Tags: technic, building
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# Question
Title: When using Mindstorms Scratch-like development tool for EV3, is it possible to move a single or a few selected blocks somehow?
Say I have 10 random blocks in a line. Is it possible to move number 4 to position 1 without also moving block 5-10? As far as I have managed to move blocks all following blocks also gets moved even if I just want to move a single block.

Moving blocks seem really hard in Mindstorms software when working with loops and if blocks, at least when you want to decide the actual target position.

# Answer
> 2 votes
You have to break the blocks apart in two places so the one(s) you want to move are not attached to anything else. Then move the separated block(s) to where you want them. And finally put everything back together again.

Note: the screen shot is from the SPIKE programming software, not EV3 - in case you don't recognize some of the blocks.

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms, programming, scratch
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# Question
Title: Multiple Programming Blocks Running at Same Time
My team created a simple program to drive robot out. It consists of a MyBlock to drive straight a specified distance and speed utilizing the Gyro sensor. The program then activates a third large motor to actuate the green large motor block to rotate the motor 45 degrees to activate one of the missions. On the drive out (MyBlock), the large motor also starts running at the same time instead of sequentially. Can anyone help me figure out why this occurred? Drive motors were plugged into B+C, and Large Motor was plugged into A.

The first picture is just the three blocks. The little fuzzy interference pattern indicating which block was active (when it glitches) was on both the MyBlock and the Large Motor Green block. This was confirmed because the robot was still driving out and the arm started rotating.

# Answer
The final block in the sequence is telling motor D to rotate 1 revolution at 75% power.

In the description of the problem, it says "and Large Motor was plugged into A."

Any chance that is the bug? Put the wire in D instead of A, or change the last block in the program from "D" to "A".
> 1 votes

# Answer
Inside of the loop, the motor block tells motors B+C to start and keep running forever.

However, there is no block that tells motors B+C to stop, so they keep on running even after the loop ends. Adding a block to stop the motor after the loop ends should get the desired behavior.
> 1 votes

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Tags: ev3, mindstorms, programming
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# Question
Title: What's the best way to glue/adhese the street baseplates to a plywood table?
I'm building a Lego city, and I want to permanently glue the road onto the table. But I don't want it to be "lumpy", or melt, and I want to make sure that the baseplates will not come off the table, whether it be water or indirect heat (such as sunlight). A friend suggested furniture glue, but I'm not sure that'll be strong enough or flat enough.

Any ideas welcome.

# Answer
You could always put a screw through a 2x2 plate and use it to fix the corners, the rounded corners on the road plates won't be damaged, and you only lose a very small, cheap part.
> 14 votes

# Answer
I mounted baseplates to a sheet of plywood in order to hang a mosaic as follows:

1. Roughly sand the plywood and the backs of the baseplates.
2. Squirt a generous helping of Liquid Nails on one of the surfaces.
3. Lay out your baseplates on the plywood using regular plates as spacers (i.e., attach plates across the boundaries between two baseplates in order to maintain correct spacing.
4. Randomly distribute plate elements across the surfaces of the baseplates.
5. Clamp a second piece of plywood across the top of the plate elements.
6. Let dry/cure for 24 hours.
7. Remove all of the plate elements.

The reason for step (4) is to create a level surface on which the top sheet of plywood can press when clamped.
> 10 votes

# Answer
LEGO plates are made from ABS plastic, as are plastic shower surround materials. Buy a caulk tube of shower surround adhesive (I have used loctite power grab from Home Depot $5). Scuff the back of the LEGO plates with some sandpaper and apply the adhesive with a fine notched trowel and slap it on your wood ;) Gently press any lumps out. To date I've made 4 LEGO tables like this and it works wonderfully.
> 7 votes

# Answer
Have you considered using velcro-strips? You can cut it to whatever size you want and it won't permanently damage your basepalces like glue wood. And there is also various versions of two-sided tape. Some of them are very strong and can even hold picture-frames on walls. So they should definitely hold baseplates down.
> 4 votes

# Answer
I have had success with super glue (LocTite). I recommend it because:

1. You don't need much glue to get it solidly attached. This means, if you are careful, no mess or cleanup, and no worry of bulging or unevenness of the plate.
2. It adheres extremely fast, so there is no need for clamping. You can just press it together by hand for a half a minute.
3. If you don't get some edge or corner adhered properly, super glue comes with a long nozzle that will allow you to patch it up.
4. The bind should be strong without needing to rough up the surfaces. It makes the job quick & easy.
5. Common: almost any sort of store, even a dollar store, is likely to have it.

**Important**: Do not ignore what the other answers say about using a block attached to two plates to get the spacing between them right. If you butt the plates directly against one another, they will be too close to attach a piece to both; and if you put very much of a gap between the plates, they will be too far apart.
> 3 votes

# Answer
I used double sided vinyl flooring adhesive.
> 2 votes

# Answer
I used spray-on contact cement (the kind where you spray both surfaces, wait for them to get tacky, and then press together).

It worked okay but the baseplates slid out of alignment over time and started coming off around the edges.

If I did it over again, I would use nuts and bolts after first aligning all the baseplates with each other using small plates, like Windfire though not necessarily through the plates. The important thing is they be well tightened and evenly spaced. And if I needed to fix or replace a baseplate for some reason then that would have been easier with bolted-on plates as well.
> 1 votes

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Tags: glue
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title: Identification tool for LEGO parts

text:
# Question
Title: Identification tool for LEGO parts
I wounder if a lego part identification tool or POC already exist?

I would like to try to build a small POC software using a such recognition concept. Where should I look first?

# Answer
> 2 votes
Instabrick has been around for a couple of years. That is the only product that I'm aware of that has actually made it to market, though plenty of other people have talked about building their own.

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Tags: part-identification
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title: Identify helmets from LEGO Bionicle

text:
# Question
Title: Identify helmets from LEGO Bionicle
I found these LEGO Bionicle helmets when looking through a box in my attic. I want to identify the corresponding sets.

# Answer
Top-left is part 50931 "Bionicle Head, Toa Hordika Vakama", which appears in two sets in dark red.

Next to its right is 53584 "LegoBionicle Mask Ignika (Vezon)". Judging from the colour, I'd say it's from set 8764-1.

Next is 52806 "Bionicle Head, Toa Hordika Matau" from set 8740-1.

Next, I cannot identify the green (lime green? bright green?) spiky one, but fellow user Sander de Dycker identified it as 57553pb01 "Bionicle Head, Barraki Ehlek with Marbled Lime Pattern", in transparent green, which appears in two sets.

Next is 52818 "Bionicle Head, Toa Hordika Onewa" from set 8739-1.

Next one is too dark in the photograph to tell apart any identifying details. But fellow user Matthew Jensen thinks it might be 50927 "Bionicle Head, Toa Hordika Whenua" from set 8738-1. It's difficult to be 100% sure without a better photograph, though.

Last one on the top row is 78180 "Bionicle Mask Jutlin with Black Top (Shapeshifted)" from set 8691-1.

---

Bottom row. First is part 50931 "Bionicle Head, Toa Hordika Vakama" (same as top row) in dark green, from set 8940-1.

Second one is 64786 "Bionicle Mask Suletu - Flexible Rubber" from set 8731-1

Next is 45682 "Bionicle Mask Huna (Toa Metru)" which appears in 7 sets.

Next one is 46479 "Bionicle Mask Ruru (Toa Metru)" in dark blue, from set 8940-1.

For the next one, I wasn't able to find any masks/heads in orange with brown on top. Fellow user Sander de Dycker pointed out that it's dark red with orange in the face, instead: part 57531pb01 "Bionicle Mask Arthron with Orange Face" from set 8911-1.

Last one in the bottom row is 78570 "Bionicle Mask Radiak with Black Top" from set 8947-1.

---

In general: Doing a reverse image search from a cropped portion of the photograph usually yields good results, but it's easier to do when the photograph is taken with a white background, good lighting to minimize shadows, and closer up (macro photography would help a lot). Unfortunately a carpet background doesn't help much, as happens with the black mask/head.

Otherwise, bricklink searches for "bionicle head" and "bionicle mask" with the advanced search option of filtering by colour do provide short lists of parts which are quick to look through. The downside is that one needs to know the exact lego colour of the part, which is not always an easy task (as happens with the bright green spiky one and the pearly orange one).
> 8 votes

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Tags: part-identification, bionicle
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# Question
Title: Lego Boost distance sensor, what range does it have?
While programming our Lego Boost set *(using the Lego Boost App on iPad)* I noticed that the distance sensor seemed to give inaccurate triggers. To try to confirm this, I connected the move hub to my computer and used `node-poweredup` to read out the sensor.

The results surprised me: the max reading I get *(the furthest it registers an object)* is 157mm. Also the steps are rather big, it always goes in steps of 25mm.

Is this normal range of the distance sensor? Or is it possible that ours has an issue *(I wiped the sensor clean with a dry cotton cloth and reconnected it to the Move Hub)*?

# Answer
The sensor reports two `UInt8` bytes, one in inches (i.e. 0 ... 255, but capped at the maximum range of 10") and one in "inverse fractional inches" (i.e. 1/255 ... 1/1). The actual code is:

```
    var inches = Double(bytes[5])
    let invFracInches = bytes[7]
    if invFracInches != 0 {
        inches += 1 / Double(invFracInches)
    }

```

Your software will be converting inches to mm/cm for metric locales - here in UK it practically reports in integer inches (thus the step is 25.4mm) from its maximum range of 10", then once below 6" it starts to report 0.5" steps, below 3" it will report 0.33" then 0.25" steps. In principle it should be able at short range to discern quite small steps.
> 1 votes

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Tags: boost, sensor
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# Question
Title: What does the 4 digit number embossed on my LEGO set represent?
I have a Limited Edition LEGO set which has an embossed 4-digit (2755) number on the bottom. I'm curious to know what it is because I don't remember seeing one before. It would also be nice to know what the numbers under the barcode represent (118789 524)

If I had to guess I would say it was a unique number given to each set in the production line of the set.

# Answer
That number is not a real number, it is a production code (in your case, 27S5) consisting of 2 digits indicating the week of the year the set was made (in this case, the 27th week), a letter indicating the region the box was made in/for (R = US/Canada, S = Europe, I believe) and the last digit is the last digit of the year the set was made in.

So you have a Gingerbread house made in 2015, in the 27th week of the year (June 29, 2015 - July 5, 2015), and it was produced in/for the European market.

These codes typically go on the seals/stickers closing a box, but in case of smaller boxes that are supposed to be pushed open, the code gets embossed into the package.

And just for comparison - all my Gingerbread houses have production code 31R5 (I'm in the US).

**UPDATE 5/2/2016**: Here is a list of all the plants referred to by the letter code:

```
H = Nyíregyháza, Hungary
R = Ciénega de Flores, Mexico
S = Kladno, Czech Republic
Q = Purkersdorf, Austria
B = Shenzhen, China (Not Confirmed)
M = Billund, Denmark (Not Confirmed)
O = Billund, Denmark (Not Confirmed)

```

---

Note: list attributed to GiliusThunderhead over at the BrickPicker.com forums.
> 19 votes

# Answer
I can verify that Phil B's answer is correct, based on a personal experience I just had. However, I can also add a bit of clarification on five-character codes.

I recently purchased six copies of Set #31128 at a local retailer:

I gave the sets away as Easter gifts, but two of the sets had defective instruction booklets for the main build (the Sea Turtle and Dolphin)! Here is an example of the problem:

Clearly, the issue is not a printing error. Instead, the issue stems from incorrectly stapling the wrong pages together. It appears that four pages were duplicated and stapled into the center of the booklet in place of the four pages which should have been there. In other words, Steps 8-54 were repeated. I contacted LEGO Customer Service to warn them of the error so that they could increase quality control and track down the source of the issue.

As it turned out, LEGO Customer Service quickly responded and requested that I send them a unique identification code from the boxes that contained the incorrect instruction manuals. When I asked for clarification, they explained that sets had a four- or five-character number printed either on the cardboard box next to the barcode or on the sealing tape. They explained that this number provided information regarding the date and location of the set's manufacture and assembly.

Here are three different Manufacturing Code Numbers I found on my boxed sets:

Therefore, the four-character code you found embossed on your boxed set is, in fact, an official LEGO Group Manufacturing Code Number that provides unique identifying information for the set.

However, you may note that two of the representative images I provided above actually had five-character product codes (instead of just four characters). That is because five-character codes also include the day of the week that the set was packaged. So decoding a five-character product code is as follows:

* The first character is the day of the week. For example, the number 6 would represent the sixth day of the week, also known as Friday where I live, but possibly Saturday for those countries that start their week on Monday.
* The second and third characters, when taken together, are the week of the year. For example, the number 52 would be the last week of the year.
* The fourth character is the factory code.
* The fifth and last character is the last digit of the year.
> 8 votes

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Tags: sets, packaging
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# Question
Title: Identification green plane-tail-like pieces
Any idea from which set these pieces do come from?

# Answer
> 8 votes
These are Sand Green Tail Shuttle pieces, found only in 2509: Earth Dragon Defense \- exactly 4 pieces per set:

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Tags: part-identification, set-identification
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# Question
Title: Very unusual-shaped piece - large octagon, recessed, with alternating panels and 4 stud sections
Does anyone know the name or number for this Lego part. I've searched and searched but can't find it:

# Answer
> 10 votes
This is part 2618 - Cockpit 10 x 10 x 4 Octagonal with Axle Hole which was produced from 1999 to 2009 and comes in 8 sets.

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: What are the inspirational resources for building with Duplo?
I am interested in knowing what are the inspirational resources for building with Duplo, so I can spend more quality time with them.

For example have Lego ever released Duplo building instructions similar to Mini Builds? Or what can be good web sites to check, follow?

# Answer
> 7 votes
LEGO does have some interesting and inspirational videos and ideas on their DUPLO website: http://duplo.lego.com/en-us/videos/

One issue with DUPLO is that it is mainly considered as LEGO for babies so all the ideas you will get on LEGO's website will be geared towards small children. However there are adult LEGO fans who also use DUPLO in their creations. Some simply incorporate DUPLO as a support-system for larger LEGO dioramas (like for building up a hill) - a method also used by LEGO's own model builders.

There are also a few adult LEGO fans who use DUPLO for building wonderful creations. One of my favorites is this LEGO DUPLO castle: http://www.flickr.com/photos/joachim\_s\_mueller/350719605/ Based on it, I also built a DUPLO castle myself: http://www.flickr.com/photos/akunthita/sets/72157617926473583/

In general, flickr.com is a good place to look for DUPLO creations, but again; remember that most will be geared towards small children, so you will have to comb through a lot of rainbow colored towers before you find a really good LEGO DUPLO creation.

Here is an article on how DUPLO and LEGO are compatible and can be used together: http://thebrickblogger.com/2010/12/lego-duplo/

# Answer
> 5 votes
Here's a great site for simple Duplo building ideas: http://legoideas.si

Very inspirational!

# Answer
> 3 votes
Check duplobuilding.com, which is a nice active duplo custom building site, with an instagram and youtube channel.

Instagram: https://instagram.com/duplobuilding

Happy building!

# Answer
> 2 votes
Put up a small blog post here with a few ideas that don’t require complicated bricks.

https://nicksweb.co.uk/2022/04/12/duplo-easy-build-ideas/

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Tags: duplo
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# Question
Title: What LEGO piece is above the blaster with clip?
I can’t seem to find this exact piece. I was wondering if you could help me find it?

# Answer
Looks exactly like the microphone minifig utensil:

https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=90370

However according to bricklink, it does not exist in blue. Then again, neither does a technic half pin come in lime, so this is likely a render than an actual build

**Update:** There was a question about the blaster with clip in the comments, that blaster does exist:  https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=15445

But again it does not come in the color depicted, just black and dark bluish gray
> 10 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: If we threw every single LEGO piece ever manufactured into a pile, how big would the pile be?
My cursory research of LEGO tells me that the manufacturing of plastic LEGO bricks began in Denmark in 1947. If we were somehow able to obtain every single LEGO piece ever created since 1947 and make a pile of them, roughly how big would the pile be? Would it fill 10 Olympic-sized pools, maybe?

# Answer
> 8 votes
It's definitely hard to give any accurate numbers, but let's try some rough estimates.

On one hand, user Grover from the EuroBricks forum points out (emphasis mine):

> I have around 200,000 bricks in my collection. \[...\] I wound up with a bunch of \[boxes with\] dimension: 33.78 x 37.78 x 40.00 cm (~45L). If I pack the bricks into these until they are full, it takes about 20 boxes to hold the collection \[...\]. No idea what the weight is on that, but if you consider **10,000 pcs/45L of volume**, that might give you a rough estimate.

On the other hand, the "Art of the Brick Quirky LEGO Facts" document linked by DavidPostill says (again, emphasis mine):

> The company has made **400 billion** LEGO elements or 62 bricks for every person on the planet.

I'm assuming short-scale billions (109), not long scale billions (1012). Billions are confusing.

Putting the numbers together we've got **1 800 000 000 litres** (or 1.8×109 litres, or 1.8 million cubic meters).

Punching that figure into wolfram alpha provides a few amusing comparisons: that's 1.7 Empire State Buildings, or a cube with 122-meter-long edges.

But you're not interested in cubes. You ask:

> If we \[...\] make a pile of them, roughly how big would the pile be?

Assuming that your pile is a cone with its radius equal to its height (i.e. it has a 45° slope), and doing the numbers, that would be a cone 120 meters high and 240 meters wide.

You also ask:

> Would it fill 10 Olympic-sized pools, maybe?

A standard-sized Olympic swimming pool is (at least) 50×25×2 meters or 2.5 million litres. Doing the math throws out a rough estimate of (at most) 720 standard-sized Olympic swimming pools.

---

Again: these are very rough estimates based on the information linked above. It's possible that there's a more accurate estimate if more reliable numbers are used.

In particular, it should be possible to do a query to the bricklink database, and get the amount of parts for sale, per part; that should give an idea of how the different parts are distributed (i.e. "how many 1x1 tiles are there for each 2x4 brick?"). Normalize those numbers to bump the total to the "400×109" figure. As bricklink has data about the dimensions of each part, it should be possible to get a good estimate, maybe getting rid of very large parts along the way. Do not forget about the packing fraction, too.

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Tags: history, manufacturing
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# Question
Title: What is the procedure for connecting PoweredUp remote to Boost motor brick?
I have a PoweredUp remote from Passenger Train 60197 and the motor-brick from Boost Creative Toolbox 17101.

Sometimes I can connect the remote to the motor, sometimes I can't. When I do manage to connect the remote, sometimes it controls A and B (the main motors on the brick) sometimes it controls C and D (the external ports on the brick)

Is there a specific sequence of buttons to press to guarantee a connection and guarantee that it controls A and B?

I have read about firmware updates and have connected both the remote and the brick to my phone using the Android PoweredUp app, but don't know how to tell if firmware updates are required.

Just to be clear the aim is to control the brick from the remote without using an Android phone.

# Answer
This video from Hispabrick magazine demonstrates it perfectly:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHv8or2GnFE

PRESS and RELEASE the green buttons on both devices and WAIT until they connect, the lights on the devices will match. Lots of people have problems with this step, either they keep the buttons pressed (which will cause the devices to switch themselves off) or they don't have the patience to wait the couple of seconds until the devices connect and repress one of the buttons in which case the connection cycle restarts...

When connected there seem to be 3 modes:

* mode 1 controls A and B, i.e. the internal motors
* mode 2 controls B and A, i.e. the internal motors in reversed order
* mode 3 controls the external ports C and D, you can connect various motors, but also a train motor and external leds. The latter two don't operate in bang-bang mode (all on or all off) but you can set the speed/intensity gradually...
* There seems to be no mode where D and C or switched, or that an internal motor and external port are combined (e.g. "A and C" or "B and D")

You apparently cycle between the modes by shortly pressing (and releasing) the green button on both devices, the lights on the devices change (and match) when successful.

Regarding firmware updates, keep your app up to date on your Android device and it will automatically upload any firmware updates as soon as you connect a Powered Up device. You'll notice by the cycling colors the device displays while updating, it may take a few minutes,... It's a bad idea to interrupt any firmware update so please be patient.
> 6 votes

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Tags: powered-up, boost
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# Question
Title: Which Lego set has had the most Easter Eggs?
With the release of the new Harry Potter Hogwarts Castle (set: 71043)

has 6,020 pieces. I believe this a subtle reference (Easter egg) to the Lego set 6020, one of the first sets to ever have a wizard.

**Q:** With subtle references like this as one example, which set has had the most Easter Eggs so far, and what were they?

# Answer
I'll say set 40523-1 Easter Rabbits, which clearly (and unarguably) has **five** easter eggs:
> 7 votes

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Tags: sets
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# Question
Title: How can you estimate the value of a LEGO collection?
I might get a chance to buy a big LEGO collection of an old colleague of mine, but before I even come out with this suggestion I'd like to know, more or less, how much it should be worth?

The last time I remember his collection took about half of the volume of a 100x100x30 (cm) box.

# Answer
This isn't an easy one: collections can vary considerably in value according to the rarity and desirability of their component parts. There are several approaches you can take to valuing a collection, but it really depends on how much work you're prepared to put in.

Of course, **the only true indicator of anything is the amount that someone is prepared to pay for it**. However, as a lot of people are buying and selling LEGO, we can get a lot more specific than that.

**The Stupidly Fancy Method**

Now, at the extreme end of the spectrum, you could go to the trouble of cataloguing every component in the collection and coming up with a price for each piece - based on BrickLink or something similar. There are 3 problems with this approach:

* Prices on BrickLink are a fair guide, but remember that these are selling prices, which may not match the price that someone is willing to spend. For common components the prices are probably about right, but for rarer ones the vendors may be asking unrealistic prices.
* It isn't all about the parts. Complete sets may be worth more than their component parts, especially if boxes and instructions are present and in good condition. Mint, unopened sets are often worth more than opened sets, but how much more depends on the set.
* For anything but the smallest collection, this approach is prohibitively time consuming for us mere mortals.

**The Easy Way**

At the other end of the spectrum is another approach: weigh the collection, and base the price on weight. People often sell by weight on eBay, so by looking at a few listings it is fairly easy to come up with a figure for price per kg (or lb). The problem with this is:

* There is a fairly wide variation of prices on eBay.
* It doesn't take into account complete sets, manuals etc.
* Some parts are quite heavy - motors, weights etc.
* This approach doesn't take into account the difference between collections with lots of small parts vs lots of larger ones.
* Some parts are worth more because they're rare or particularly desirable, e.g. minifigs tend to be more desirable than regular bricks, star wars components are more desirable.

Despite these issues, this general approach seems to be fairly common on eBay. They might sell for more by parting-out, but the effort and time involved just isn't worth it.

**My Way**

Of course, you can do something in between.

So, here's what I would do if I were *selling*:

1. Guess the value.
2. Figure out your price / kg by looking at recent sales on eBay.
3. Pull out any complete sets.
4. Pull out any remaining paperwork and heavy stuff (motors, battery boxes with batteries in).
5. You should be left with a pile of bricks. Pull out all the minifigs (don't worry too much if you miss a few, and ignore their accessories) unless they're already holding them.
6. Weigh the remaining loose bricks, and use your price / kg to value them. If you think there is non-LEGO in there (megablocks etc.) either pull them out or reduce your price a bit.
7. Weigh the complete sets. Use your price / kg to value them and then add a % based on how desirable you think the sets are. Castle, train, space (inc. StarWars), pirate and technic tend to be worth a bit more.
8. Assign a nominal value to each minifig. Regular city people are worth quite a bit less than "interesting" figs. Starwars are favourite, followed by other "fancy" ones. (If I were selling, I'd probably sell the figs in separate bundles).
9. Add this lot up.
10. Compare the difference between the guess you made in 0 and the answer you got in 7, and pick a price somewhere in between.

Of course, if I were *buying* I'd knock 20% off this price and insist that the seller do the same!

**Notes on Pricing**

When setting a price, consider the following general rules:

* Although the age and rarity of a set or component has some relation to its desirability, they are not the most important part of price.
* Quality of the parts matters a lot. Scratches or other marks lower price considerably. For example, I've got some old bricks from the 60s that are really poor for building because they're not made from the same plastic as newer bricks. As a result, people don't seem to want them, despite their relative age.
* "Cuteness" of models matters a lot. Some of my oldest sets are quite rare, but they're also quite boring (e.g. sets of roof tiles). As a result they're no where near as valuable as a relatively common but fun set from the same era.
* People like figs, so the pre-minifig era sets are not so desirable.
* Many buyers like sets from their childhood, so nice space-themed sets from the late 70s - early 90s generally do well on the second-user market.
> 11 votes

# Answer
While this may not help you ascertain the value of someone else's collection you intend to buy or make an offer on, I'll add this for others who may want to know what their own collection is worth - using the Peeron website (www.peeron.com), you can work out the RRP of your own collection. Simply enter the set numbers into their database and Peeron will tally them up for you. As an example, here is what Peeron estimates my collection at:

Totals: 410 Sets (361 unique), 82,912 Parts, $7,249.10, 634 Minifigs.

Couldn't be easier, but you'll need a pretty comprehensive knowledge of your collected sets - it gets more complicated if you have a lot of loose parts bought or gathered outside of official sets.
> 3 votes

# Answer
You can enter the collection in the Brickfact app and see the value of the collection easily. The app calculates the prices of each set daily based on actual sales on ebay and Bricklink. From what I see the values provided are pretty accurate. Of course you need to subtract ebay or bricklink fees if you want to sell the sets.

I have all my sets in the app and I see a chart and some nice additional statistics:
> 3 votes

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Tags: value
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# Question
Title: Which bricks are still protected by copyright / trademark / patent law?
In 2010, The European court of justice (ECJ) in Luxembourg validated a lower-court ruling, in favor of Canada's Mega Brands, that Lego's bricks can't be legally protected by trademark law because their two rows of interlocking studs are a functional, technical shape that cannot become the property of any one company.

In 2015, the ECJ rejected an attempt by Best-Lock, a UK-based toymaker, to appeal against the trademark protection of Lego’s figures, ruling that LEGO mini-figures should continue to be classed as protected shapes.

In December 2016, German toy manufacturer Delta Sport filed an application for the declaration of invalidity of design 001664368-0006, trademarked the with the EU since 2010, applying the same reasoning used by Mega Brands to win their lawsuit in 2010. The European Union Intellectual Property Office (EUIPO) initially sided with Delta Sport in 2019, but this ruling would later be overruled by the General Court of the European Union (EGC).

What is the impact of these lawsuits on items sold by brands such as Qman, BlueBrixx, Cobi & 3DWise, or artists like Stefano Bolcato or Andy Morris (aka "Little Big Art")?

To which degree is one legally allowed to produce and/or sell LEGO-compatible bricks or artworks inspired by LEGO?

# Answer
> 18 votes
This is a complex topic. If you are considering designing a LEGO-compatible product, you may want to consult a lawyer who is an expert in this area. With that in mind, here's my attempt at an answer.

## Terms

First we'll define some terms. From Wikipedia:

### Copyright

> A type of intellectual property that gives its owner the exclusive right to copy and distribute a **creative work**, usually for a limited time.

### Trademark

> A type of intellectual property consisting of a recognizable sign, design, or expression that **identifies products or services from a particular source** and distinguishes them from others.

### Patent

> A type of intellectual property that gives its owner the legal right to exclude others from making, using, or selling **an invention** for a limited period of time in exchange for publishing an enabling disclosure of the invention.

### Industrial Design Right or Design Patent

> An intellectual property right that **protects the visual design of objects that are not purely utilitarian**.

It is very easy to get these mixed up.

Trademark never expires, and relates to a specific design or mark that identifies a product or brand. The shape of the LEGO minifigure is trademarked. The word "LEGO" is also trademarked.

The "Red LEGO Brick" judgement from 2010 struck down the idea that the shape of the 2x4 LEGO brick could be trademarked. The reasoning behind this decision was that the shape is functional and it would not be possible for another company to design another shape that functioned in the same manner without being essentially the same item.

Copyright rarely applies to functional designs like building blocks. It is used for purely creative works. It may apply in the case of box art, instructions, or complete set designs.

Patents cover novel and non-obvious functional inventions. The stud and tube design was successfully patented in 1958 and the patent has since expired.

Design patents are a bit different than regular patents. They still represent novel and non-obvious functional inventions, but can be granted for a different visual structure that performs a similar function to prior art. For example, the Coke bottle was covered by a now expired design patent, but is still covered under trademark:

The 2016 Application for Declaration of Invalidity that you mentioned revolves around a registered community design (RCD). I believe that this is an EU legal structure that is effectively a design patent or industrial design right.

The application referenced the 2010 2x4 brick trademark case. The rationale for denying this request to have the RCD invalidated was partially based on the arguments related to trademark in that case not applying to an RCD. Trademark should rarely apply only to specific non-functional design elements, otherwise the patent system need not exist as entities could simply permanently trademark everything they design. Patents can be more broad in the designs they cover, as they allow only for a limited period of exclusive use.

In practice, very few elements appear to be eligible trademark. The minifig is the most common one that I'm aware of. The 2010 case makes it clear that regular bricks are generally not eligible for trademark protections, even bricks like the 2x4 that are iconic and largely synonymous with the idea of a LEGO brick.

That implies that most element designs will fall under patent law rather than trademark. In order to be eligible for a patent, the design must be novel and non-obvious. If a patent is awarded for a design, it will typically be protected for some number of years, typically on the order of about 25. Here's an example of a recent LEGO element patent:

The patent on that design is expected to expire in 2034.

One may think that in order to make elements that are free of patent infringement, it would be sufficient to be aware of all of TLG's non-expired patents. However, anyone can be granted a patent for a LEGO-compatible element. Here's another recent patent:

That patent was awarded to Mega Brands, so even TLG can't make that element until the patent expires in 2036. Unfortunately, determining which designs are patent infringing currently and which are not is non-trivial, and there is a reason these companies have legal teams.

Thankfully, there is a somewhat simpler answer to the question:

**If an element already exists, and was created long enough ago that its patent would have expired in the jurisdiction of interest, it should be free to use.**

This does assume that the element is not eligible for trademark protection, but it seems that most are not. Anyone can manufacture and sell a LEGO-compatible 2x4 brick in a product. All other common building elements that were around in the 80s, or obvious extensions of these elements such as the 1x5 plate, should also be fine. Beyond that, it gets complicated.

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Tags: clone-brands, history, lego-group, customization
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# Question
Title: Identify brand of this non-LEGO 2x4 plate
I found this on my old desk and then I remembered that I used to buy fake LEGO sets with parts like this. Maybe someone knows what the name of the brand that produces parts like this (I don't know if it's made in China or not but mostly from there)

Edit: the scale is the same as the real LEGO pieces, it doesn't have any emblem on the stud or part id.

Edit2: okay i add another pic and a vehicle set with a sticker. I try to rebuild it as i could remember it

Edit3: it was Chaobao but i need your help to find some information about this brand

# Answer
> 0 votes
I've finally found it, It was Chaobao. I was searching through the images on google then i found this pic, i recognize those wheel and the slope pieces (it even had the same horizontal line on the pic above).

I'm really sure this was the brand but i need more information about this Chaobao because because they have no official website or anything.

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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title: 4.5v/12v connector contact problems

text:
# Question
Title: 4.5v/12v connector contact problems
I have pulled out several 1970s and 1980s 4.5v and 12v motors/trains from my childhood for my children to play with. Everything is working pretty well, except that we have recurring contact problems plugging the cables into either a battery box, motor, or transformer. A lot of wiggling is needed to make the connection, and it's hard to keep the motor turning without holding the connector in place.

Since the plugs just seem to be metal cylinders, I assume the sockets must have some kind of spring that has worn out. Do you have any advice on rejuvenating them? I don't want to try to replace all the motors and power supplies :)

# Answer
At least with 1980s grey cables, the pins on the plugs are split, and if the four segments of the pin get pushed together the connection becomes loose. Gently easing the segments apart with the tip of a small electrical screwdriver or the blade of a penknife restores the plugs' tight fit -- but don't force them apart too far, or you may damage the pin.
> 2 votes

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Tags: battery, 12v
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title: NXT - Mirror motor rotation

text:
# Question
Title: NXT - Mirror motor rotation
I'm trying to make a program in NXT 2.0 that mirrors the (manual) movements of one motor to another.

I managed to start motor B running in the right direction but I am having trouble controlling the number of degrees. I tried using the `degree` output of the sensor as input for the motor but it doesn't work: the B motor moves a bit but not the same amount of motor A.

So I tried with a loop instead: rotate motor B until its position is equal to motor A.

The second solution works slightly better but is still not precise.

Any suggestions?

# Answer
> 2 votes
A good way to do this is to use a control algorithm with feedback to control the position of the second motor. You can research "PID" to learn how to make your own.

Or if you want an out-of-the-box experience, there is a PID block from HiTechnic available that does this. It can be downloaded from here (search for "PID"). There is also a YouTube video showing how the block works.

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Tags: mindstorms, nxt, motor, sensor
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# Question
Title: 2:1 gear ratio in stud-less Lego Technic
Is there a recognised technique to create a 2:1 gear ratio in stud-less Lego Technic?

Neither of the two methods suggested here (studded though) work.

24T/12T with a 2L x 1L axle offset does rotate, but is too stiff to be functional.

16T/8T with a 1L x 1L axle offset is totally jammed.

# Answer
Here's a solution I found in Yoshihito Isogawa's **LEGO Power Functions Idea Book Vol. 1 - Machines and Mechanisms**:

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**EDIT** based on Eric's comment:

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And here's using the black piece from JohnnyB's tweak:
> 9 votes

# Answer
I felt my original answer got messy. The simplest answer is that you already had it. I experimented with variations of your 12T/24T build and experienced varying degrees of the stiffness you mentioned. It became evident that the location of the gears was affecting how much the side pieces were pinching the gears even though the actual gear mesh remained well within tolerances. Stabilizing the brackets, thus the distance between them, eliminated any and all stiffness.

I also threw together a few more 1:2 ratio gear configurations for reference:

Inspired by the design from Yoshihito Isogawa posted by Uli, I couldn't resist tweaking it in an attempt to make it stronger and easier to build off of.

Inspired by the answer that Eilon gave regarding Technic chain, I evidently proved myself wrong and came up with this.
> 9 votes

# Answer
Another solution to consider (although it only makes sense in certain scenarios) is to use a differential. It naturally creates a 2:1 ratio, but if your mechanism doesn't require one then it's kinda bulky and silly to introduce one with a fixed input. But if you have one involved, just swapping around how you're using the inputs and housing can introduce a 2:1 ratio where you didn't have one before.

I did this today designing a mechanism for a clamshell excavator. Turning one crank extends both lines at the same rate, turning another crank keeps one line fixed while adjusting the second. But I wanted a block-and-tackle on the suspension line, meaning it would need to turn twice as fast. Just changing how I used the differential got me that ratio for free.

Here's an illustration of the basic concept - the differential housing will rotate at half the rate of the yellow shaft. Like I said, silly and bulky, but could be useful in the right situation.
> 4 votes

# Answer
Consider using a chain with any two gears that have a 2:1 ratio. The chain also helps preserve direction of rotation, if that's important in your case. The chain could even drive other gears if needed (like the serpentine belt in a car).

Here's a diagram:

(I wasn't sure how to make a chain appear, nor axles, but I think it's clear.)
> 2 votes

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Tags: technic, design, gears
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# Question
Title: How can I find the value of a LEGO set over several years?
Bricklink has this handy feature on its site which allows you to view the average selling prices of a particular set based on previous auctions.

I like this feature, but unfortunately, it only displays trades made in the last six months.

Are there any tools that can track or display historical selling prices on sets. Preferably using data from popular LEGO auction sites like Ebay and Bricklink.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Yes, you can see the price development of sets on the Brickfact website. The prices are calculated daily by sales on Ebay and Bricklink.

If you want to keep track of the price development of all your LEGO sets you can you use the Brickfact portfolio tracking app. You can enter all your sets there and see the individual price development as well as for each of your sets.

# Answer
> 7 votes
Not sure about several years, but Brickpicker covers one full year. Here are the stats for the Green Grocer, for example:

>

Or the ones for the UCS Millenium Falcon:

>

And so on, you get the idea. They have more and other stats, too — e.g. the following quick overview for every set:

>

They pull their data from eBay, through some third-party tool they licensed.

Now, I think they only let you look up like three sets at a time — then you have to register. But the registration is completely free. They cover their costs via affiliate marketing, i.e. links to Amazon and the like.

They can also sync your account with (i.e. import your sets from) Brickset and Rebrickable, but I never gave that a try. I'm not much of an investor anyway, just your typical AFOL. In fact, according to them, the prices for some of the discontinued sets I still have unopened have actually plummeted.

I suppose if I were in for the long haul, I would just take a screenshot of their stats every twelve months and then string them together in GIMP.

# Answer
> 6 votes
I'm not familiar with any tools that do this with eBay or Bricklink price histories. I'm pretty sure that Bricklink removes all data older than 6 months, so if this information is available, it would have to come from a third party who scraped it from the site.

I have used a tool called Tracktor to look at Amazon price histories for LEGO sets. Sadly, this tool is most useful for sets that are currently in production, as there aren't many listings for out of production sets on Amazon. Here's an example showing the price of Medieval Market Village (10193) over the past couple of years:

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Tags: investment, value
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# Question
Title: Which brand made clone bricks with "HL" on the studs?
This brand also copied some of the original lego sets such as 8418, 8150, and 8151(weirdly its colored in red rather than blue)

I don't need you to identify what's this part is, i just wanna know the brand's name

# Answer
> 1 votes
I answered my own question, twice. But i finally found it. It was Brick Intellect, but why the name on the stud was "HL" instead of "BI/BL" or "BT" as it show on to picture where the B and T are marked red

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Tags: part-identification, clone-brands
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title: Waterproofing LEGO bricks

text:
# Question
Title: Waterproofing LEGO bricks
I have a LEGO ship that I want to photograph as it's sailing along in a pool. Of course the LEGO bricks have cracks in between them so water will leak through.

Does anyone have any ideas as to how to waterproof the hull? Something that won't harm the bricks that can be easily removed. Also I don't want whatever the material is to be visible in a photo.

# Answer
I would try liquid latex (liquid frisket) which you can buy in most art supply store.

This will not damage the bricks and is easy to peel off. You can apply it using a cheap throwaway brush, either in between the bricks (like a cement wall) or as a thin transparent layer on the whole hull. I recommend the second method because it's fast, straight forward and the easiest one to clean up.

I use this stuff for all kind of painting and molding jobs. It's a great material.
> 15 votes

# Answer
I would tend to suggest another non-waterproofing solution - build something to hold your ship from underneath, that will safely rest on the bottom of your pool.

Of course, if you don't want it to show on the picture, you'll have to be extra careful about how you do it, but I think it's the simpliest solution.

What I would do is buy a large plexiglass sheet (or any other transparent material), make sure your ship is secured to it (drill some 8mm holes in the plexiglass and poke studs in them, or Technic Axles, or whatever). Then you can have someone hold the sheet & ship slightly under water so that the ship looks like it's floating, whereas it's actually not. As long as the borders of the sheet are outside of your camera frame, you're in business.

I owe that idea to a Stargate SG-1 episode I rewatched recently, actually. In the making of, they explaing how they make it look like a bullet is floating in mid-air - they just embed it in a plexiglass sheet and film right through it. It's it's good enough for commercial television, it should work for you too.
> 9 votes

# Answer
Maybe you don't need to waterproof it. If you are able to fit a block of foam (eg. extruded polystyrene) inside the hull, that will probably be enough to ensure buoyancy.
> 6 votes

# Answer
I suspect that water leaking through the hull will not be the real problem you need to solve. Granted, I haven't seen a photo of what you have built, so I might be wrong. I think the real problem you might have is that a Lego boat will be quite a bit less massive than a wooden or steel ship with the same proportions.

If you go look up some of the old sectional boats that they made in the mid 1970s, they all came with lead filled keel piece to keep the otherwise light and rather top heavy Lego boats from capsizing. Depending on your weight distribution, you might need to add some ballast to keep it floating correctly. If you aren't up on your boat physics, just keep the center of mass of the boat as low as possible in the water.

I suggest you give it a 'dry run' (ha-ha, get it?) in your bathtub and make sure that you aren't accidentally going to recreate the closing scene of Titanic before you set up your photo shoot.
> 4 votes

# Answer
Try spraying the inside with plasti dip, it goes on like spray paint or you can use a cheap paint brush, then you can peel off as one whole piece. Best of all it comes in many colors!

Get it here www.plastidip.com they also sell it at most home improvement stores.
> 2 votes

# Answer
Maybe clear contact-paper on the inside?
> 0 votes

# Answer
Put tape around it. Make sure to duble layer it.
> 0 votes

# Answer
You could use cling wrap, or plastic wrap might work. Maybe you could use aluminum foil.
> 0 votes

# Answer
I'd suggest to use clear silicon to seal the underside of the hull then add a weight in the bottom middle to keep balance and also make the ship a bit heavier.

I didn’t try this but it was my best idea.
> 0 votes

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Tags: water
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# Question
Title: Is there a guide on how to code custom blocks for NXT?
The answer to a previous question pointed to "custom blocks for NXT". I am not talking about creating "My Blocks" in the "Custom Palette", but code blocks that can be imported into LEGO Mindstorms NXT.

Are there tools to code these custom blocks available to the public? Where can I get them?

# Answer
Custom blocks are created using National Instruments LabView software. The instructions for how to do this are still available at https://download.ni.com/evaluation/mindstorms/NXT\_Creating\_MINDSTORMS\_Blocks.pdf.

After some digging, I was able to find https://forums.ni.com/t5/NI-Labs-Toolkits/NI-LabVIEW-for-LEGO-MINDSTORMS-LabVIEW-Module-for-LEGO/ta-p/3516439?profile.language=en which looks like it still has download links that work.

I haven't actually tried installing and running anything though.
> 2 votes

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Tags: mindstorms, nxt
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title: Black Universal Joints

text:
# Question
Title: Black Universal Joints
I'm seeking ***black*** universal joints for a project. Do these exist in genuine LEGO form? I'm guessing the answer is no, despite hints (here and here). Ideally, I'd like the 3L size.

* Do you know of a non-LEGO source that sells black u-joints?
* Do you know if dying the standard gray LEGO u-joints black is possible, especially given that these parts are relatively small and complex?
* Do you know if any rapid manufacturing process, e.g., 3D printing, could produce a nice u-joint?

# Answer
> 1 votes
There is one on thingiverse. I haven't tried it.

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Tags: technic, colour, customization, 3d-printing
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# Question
Title: What sets are these black curved pieces with fine-lined stickers from?
I got these pieces recently and would appreciate any help finding out which LEGO sets they are from.

# Answer
These are:

from set 8075: Neptune Carrier

and

from set 8076: Deep Sea Striker
> 11 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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# Question
Title: What set is this bag from? Black, white, technic
Here are some pictures of the front and back of the bag:

# Answer
> 7 votes
It appears to be a bag from set 70815 Super Secret Police Dropship.  I recognised these two parts from the bag:
and used BrickLink's set finder to find sets with both parts.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: Make and take set identification - white, tan, brown, and a long yellow axle
My kids got these pieces in a plain clear bag for Christmas 2021. I think it is part of a LEGO Make-and-Take event at a Toys R Us from this past year or something but they didn’t get any instructions. Is anyone able to identify and get instructions for it?

# Answer
> 6 votes
I put together a model of this owl, using my best guess when there was ambiguity. It uses all the parts in the image, plus some extras (namely; the wings, beak, eyes, some slopes).
You can view the 3D model here: https://www.mecabricks.com/en/models/Abjp4W9Dj5y

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Searching for Lego Make and Take, I found this Harry Potter Owl model that appears to be made of the parts from your bag, but you may be missing a few.
Unfortunately, I couldn't find building instructions for it, but they can definitely be inferred from the image.

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Tags: set-identification
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# Question
Title: I would like to check on a step in the BMW M 1000 RR build
A bit of a silly question here really but I am assuming the three decals in step 523 are simply three different options you can choose from for that piece ?

# Answer
> 6 votes
Assuming you're referring to set 42130 - BMW M 1000 RR, and specifically this step in the instructions :

Then yes, the 3 black 2x4 tiles, each with their own sticker, are alternatives from which you can choose your preferred dashboard.

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Tags: technic, instructions, vehicle
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# Question
Title: I need the name or number of the bricks that the minifigures are on
I need the name of grey pieces that the minifigures are standing on.

# Answer
> 19 votes
It's not a very clear picture, but I suspect it's not a single part, but rather made from the following 3 parts (stacked on top of each other in top to bottom order) :

And attached onto a base plate, resulting in (color added to show the separate parts) :

---
Tags: part-identification
---


title: 5x3 Half Round Problem

text:
# Question
Title: 5x3 Half Round Problem
How can I hide on top of this with tile pieces?

To make it like this:

Edit: Thank @jncraton for the solution

Before answering I made it like this:

But now it looks way better and it will be more stable:

# Answer
> 10 votes
If you are able to use up some additional space inside the build, you should be able to use 68013 Brick Round, Half 1 x 2 (one under each tile) to support the corners:

---
Tags: building
---


# Question
Title: Identify this set with long black irregular shapes with light grey edges
Please help me identify what this is please.

# Answer
Based on part 18675pb13 it's 75179-1 Kylo Ren's TIE Fighter
> 3 votes

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: How can I connect a 4mm Stepper motor shaft to a technic gear?
How can I connect a 4mm or 6mm stepper motor D shaft to an old Technic gear?

I would like to mount an old 8-tooth gear to a 4-6 mm diameter stepper motor shaft.

Lego part: 3647:

Stepper motor:

Potential solution found on 3D Printing StackExchange.

Working solution:

# Answer
I did find this pattern for a 3-D printer.

https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/mechanical-parts/6mm-dshaft-to-lego-axis-adapter
> 4 votes

# Answer
For 6 mm shaft the hole used to accept LEGO Technic axle is slightly less in diameter than 6 mm. So you may try modifying one end of of Technic connectors (some examples below) to fit the motor shaft and use usual Technic axle on the other end of connector.

6538c - Technic, Axle Connector 2L (Smooth with x Hole + Orientation)

6538b - Technic, Axle Connector 2L (Ridged with x Hole x Orientation)
> 4 votes

---
Tags: technic, motor, gears, 3rd-party, connections
---


title: Gun turret for a Star Wars ship?

text:
# Question
Title: Gun turret for a Star Wars ship?
Would someone know what set this belongs to?

# Answer
> 12 votes
That would be set 75246 - Death Star Cannon :

One of only 4 sets that have a Trans-Red Dish 3 x 3 Inverted (Radar).

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: What is part 53119 supposed to represent?
This part appears in 50 sets, but of particular interest is what it's supposed to represent. Is it a bag of trash, or animal faeces?

In Minifig series 19, dog sitter appears with 1x 53119 where it appears to imply a doggie doo-doo.

But it's also used in many other sets where doggy doo-doo wouldn't be appropriate/fit the theme. It also makes a good fairy cake icing.

# Answer
For an attempt at an objective answer, I went though all sets released in 2019 or 2020 with this part (13 sets total), and looked to see what the part represents.

The results:

* Brown in col19-9: Dog poo
* Brown in 11940: Possibly poo, maybe just a lump of dirt
* Brown in 41429: Human poo
* Brown in 75969: Cupcakes/muffins
* Brown in 41422: Panda poo
* Brown in 71722: Possibly poo, maybe just a lump of dirt
* White in 41431: Cupcakes
* White in 43180: Ice-cream
* White in 43170: Seashell
* White in 43183: Decorations on a box. Mabe a seashell?
* White in 21322: Seashell? Foam?
* White in 43176: Seashell
* White in 43188: Contents of a pot. Soup?

So by my count we have: 3-5 poops, 4 foods and 2-4 seashells.
> 17 votes

# Answer
This question is hard to answer objectively.

It is a small "swirl" and like many pieces, represents whatever the designer/player wants it to. It comes in white (where as you noted, it is usually a cake icing or a rock) and in brown, where it looks like it is primarily a poo. But it can also represent a decorative element like a flourish.
> 8 votes

# Answer
As Fredric Mention in his answer, what this piece represents is up to the imagination of the creator. Indeed it is used for several things in official sets, often as a cupcake topping, icecream, seashell, or dog poop.

A few interesting uses:

And this set uses a brown one as a cupcake, but also as a dog...
> 6 votes

# Answer
Two dogs, a shovel and minifig's expression pretty much suggest that the subject of this question is *poop*.
> 1 votes

# Answer
It's definitely represents faeces in a lot of sets. Children think poo is funny. Most of Lego's customers are children and Lego caters to its customers taste...
> 1 votes

---
Tags: part-identification
---


# Question
Title: Which basic LEGO blocks exist with studs on top with the same rectangular shapes top and bottom
With the number of top studs for length and width, and heights given as 1/3, 2/3, 1 etc,

What varieties are available? 1x1x1/3, 1x8x2/3, 2x2x1, for example.

What's the maximum size, length and width of such a block?

Are there basic blocks with fractional heights above 1?

Regarding odd lengths. I've seen bricks that are 1 and 3 studs wide or long, but none with odd measurements above 3. Do any like that exist with odd length or width above 3? For example 2x5x1 or 2x7x1, or 5x6x1.

# Answer
I have compiled a spreadsheet showing all known size according to Bricklink: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1vwCvSBmvaGz-Ucl1lTXI4tS55k6w1b2ih2mItxAWiis/edit?usp=sharing

It's hard to say what the 'largest' brick is, but here is some interesting data (only counting unmodified, rectangular parts):

Some other interesting dimensioned parts:

Baseplates also used to come in a lot of multiples of 5. Now they are all multiples of 8.
> 3 votes

# Answer
Regarding odd lengths: Lego very recently started making 1 x 5 plates (and if you stack 3 of them, it's the same size as a brick). Otherwise, no.
> 3 votes

---
Tags: piece-information, size
---


# Question
Title: Set Identification - bag 2 is gold, dark blue, greys
What set do these parts belong?

# Answer
> 8 votes
It looks like 76141-1 Thanos Mech

The part 27263 Tile, Modified Facet 2 x 2 doesn't show up in many sets in Pearl Gold or Metallic Gold.

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: How to cross compile for ev3dev using Docker
**How to add ev3dev libraries/headers to docker cross-compile setup?**

I have assembled ev3dev on BrickPi (with Raspberry Pi 1 - chip BCM2835). I think, it all should be pretty similar for EV3 brick too. I do want to cross-compile and I have been able to download the docker image:

```
`ev3dev/debian-stretch-cross   latest    8e3b0aa8f243   4 years ago     732MB`
`ev3cc                         latest    8e3b0aa8f243   4 years ago     732MB`

```

I access the compiler via `docker run` (`docker run --rm -it -v /home/r0bis/src/robotics/helloArm/:/src -w /src ev3cc`)
The compiler can compile hello world program that I can then put on RPI and run successfully. However when I try to compile examples that include ev3dev specific libraries it fails. In the tutorial I do not find what would be the best way to add the missing libraries. I thought that the libraries/headers would be included in the docker image; maybe they are and I just do not know something. Help would be much appreciated.

**Screenshots**

```
compiler@3547e87f257e:/src$ arm-linux-gnueabi-gcc port.c -o port
port.c:8:17: fatal error: ev3.h: No such file or directory
 #include "ev3.h"
                 ^
compilation terminated.

```

**Desktop:**

* Manjaro Linux 64 bit
* Connection Type: SSH over ethernet
* Software: Text editor, ssh/sftp connection; would like to set up VSCode eventually

**Robot:**

* Device: BrickPi 3 (Raspberry Pi 1 B+ (BCM2835)
* Versions:

**System info (from `ev3dev-sysinfo`)**

```
Image file:         ev3dev-stretch-rpi-generic-2020-04-10
Kernel version:     4.14.114-ev3dev-2.3.5-rpi
Brickman:           0.10.3
BogoMIPS:           697.95
Bluetooth:
Board:              board0
BOARD_INFO_HW_REV=0010
BOARD_INFO_MODEL=Raspberry Pi Model B Plus Rev 1.2
BOARD_INFO_SERIAL_NUM=00000000d374d92b
BOARD_INFO_TYPE=main

```

# Answer
> 1 votes
So the answer is mainly about usage of `docker` in context of cross compiling for RaspberryPi.

First we get the cross compiler docker image (you need to be part of `docker` group or use sudo):

```
docker pull ev3dev/debian-stretch-cross

```

That gives you the cross compiler environment, but to have ev3dev specific C headers, you need to get them there. They belong to `https://github.com/in4lio/ev3dev-c` and you need to compile and install them. Instructions are given in \`https://github.com/in4lio/ev3dev-c/tree/stretch/docker/README.md' file - which you will also have if you do

```
mkdir -p ~/src
cd ~/src
git clone https://github.com/in4lio/ev3dev-c.git

```

Because I want the C development headers in place (they get put into `/usr/local/include/`) and not install every time I run the container I put them inside the Docker image. To do that I open the Dockerfile located inside `~/src/ev3dev-c/docker/` and make edits. They are not the best, probably, since I probably use sudo too much, but here is the modified Dockerfile:

```
FROM ev3dev/debian-stretch-cross:latest

RUN sudo apt-get update
RUN sudo apt-get install -y --no-install-recommends swig3.0 python-dev
RUN sudo apt-get install -y --no-install-recommends build-essential
RUN sudo apt-get install -y --no-install-recommends git
WORKDIR /home/robot
RUN sudo git clone https://github.com/in4lio/ev3dev-c.git
WORKDIR /home/robot/ev3dev-c
RUN sudo git submodule update --init --recursive
WORKDIR /home/robot/ev3dev-c/source/ev3/
RUN sudo make && sudo make install
RUN sudo make shared && make shared-install
RUN sudo rm -rf /var/lib/apt/lists/*

```

It works and the resulting image will be about 300 MB larger than `ev3dev/debian-stretch-cross`. In order to make the image file you change into the same directory as the Dockerfile is, make sure your 2 files you will need to execute have execute permissions (e.g. `chmod ug+x ./build.sh`) and run the `build.sh` file. After a little while it should successfully add `ev3cc` image to your docker images and you can now run it executing `dock.sh`

```
[user@computer ev3dev-c]$ docker images
REPOSITORY                    TAG       IMAGE ID       CREATED         SIZE
ev3cc                         latest    021f7f962c28   9 minutes ago   1.09GB

```

Before executing `dock.sh` though, change one directory up. The script mounts your current directory into a corresponding directory inside the container, where you can do the compilation. (And while you are at it, do not forget to examine Dockerfile and other small files in the same folder - they are very small scripts and pretty self-explanatory)

```
cd ..
./docker/dock.sh

```

then you will be put inside the container prompt and will be able to compile the hello example issuing `make` command:

```
compiler@ev3dev:/home/robot/ev3dev-c$ cd eg/hello/
compiler@ev3dev:/home/robot/ev3dev-c/eg/hello$ make
make -f ../Makefile.Debug
make[1]: Entering directory '/home/robot/ev3dev-c/eg/hello'
arm-linux-gnueabi-gcc -I. -I../../source/ev3 -I../../3d_party -O2 -std=gnu99 -W -Wall -Wno-comment -c hello.c -o ../../object/hello.o
arm-linux-gnueabi-gcc ../../object/modp_numtoa.o ../../object/brick.o ../../object/crc32.o ../../object/ev3.o ../../object/ev3_dc.o ../../object/ev3_led.o ../../object/ev3_light.o ../../object/ev3_port.o ../../object/ev3_sensor.o ../../object/ev3_servo.o ../../object/ev3_tacho.o ../../object/hello.o -o Debug/hello -lm
***  Debug/hello ***
make[1]: Leaving directory '/home/robot/ev3dev-c/eg/hello'
compiler@ev3dev:/home/robot/ev3dev-c/eg/hello$
compiler@ev3dev:/home/robot/ev3dev-c/eg/hello$ ls -l Debug/
total 116
-rwxr-xr-x 1 compiler compiler 111140 Jun  3 11:26 hello
drwxr-xr-x 2 compiler compiler   4096 Jun  2 16:14 mingw

```

Now as you have seen your compiled hello example is in your `Debug` subdirectory and it is accessible to your host computer (because of `-v` volume mount from `docker run` options in `dock.sh`) as `~/src/ev3dev-c/eg/hello/Debug/`

You can use any ssh transfer program such as *FileZilla* to transport the compiled `hello` binary to your robot and run it there - for example from ssh prompt. Connection to your robot via ssh is described here \- but any tutorial how to connect to another computer via ssh will do. You just need to know either the IP address of your robot, or it's resolvable hostname on your local network:

```
robot@ev3dev:~$ ./hello
Hello, LEGO World!

```

So cross compilation works, but now for RaspberryPi (using BrickPi 3) I need to understand how to deal with the problem that brickpi3 does not automatically recognise motors or sensors plugged into the ports - i.e. supplied examples do not work. For `EV3`, though, things should be fine. - YES, checked - works fine for EV3.

**AND** Brickpi3 works fine too \- it is just that instead of autodetection routines you need to supply which port number the motor is actually plugged in :-)

If you have not installed the ev3dev c libraries on your raspberrypi - not to worry, you can just tell the compiler to make the program with static libraries; file size is not very large (about 600 kb).

---
Tags: programming, tools, ev3dev
---


# Question
Title: LEGO Power Function PF 2.0 specification
Does anyone have the new Power Function 2.0 specification or pin out?

# Answer
I'm not sure exactly what you are looking for in terms of a spec, but here's the pinout from the Eurobricks thread mentioned by Alexander O'Mara with some help from this post:

```
Pin 1 - Motor
Pin 2 - Motor
Pin 3 - GND (0v)
Pin 4 - VCC (3.3v)
Pin 5 - ID 1 (UART TX for active devices)
Pin 6 - ID 2 (UART RX for active devices)

```

The basic spec for motors is that they are given continuous 3.3V power on pins 3 and 4, voltages to drive the motor on pins 1 and 2, and pins 5 and 6 are used to identify the type of motor that is attached. For the basic motors, I believe that this is simply a known resistance between pins 5 and 6.
> 4 votes

# Answer
LPF2 is also known as Powered Up - ref.

The Bluetooth hub is documented: https://github.com/lego/lego-ble-wireless-protocol-docs . This carries a large `gh-pages` branch & corresponding web site.

Philo also has useful information.

*This doesn't answer the original question but I believe anyone searching for info will benefit from the connection.*
> 0 votes

---
Tags: powered-up
---


# Question
Title: Does anyone know what set these parts belong to? Lots of dark red, with tans and greys
I cannot identify these parts. Dark gray and dark red parts with one figure.

# Answer
> 10 votes
Based on 48336 Pearl Gold Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Bar Handle on Side - Closed Ends and 47759 Dark Red Wedge 2 x 4 Triple

76104-1 The Hulkbuster Smash-Up

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: Help identify this part - possibly train related?
I suspect it might be related to a train coupler but I could be totally wrong. I couldn't find it in the train parts category on Bricklink. It seems similar to part 2920.

It has an open stud on the top and an antistud on the bottom, and a regular axle hole going across. The clip things that are on one side are smaller than the diameter of a regular bar.

It says "(C) Lego Group" and "3" and "01" but I do not see a part number.

# Answer
> 12 votes
It's in the Magnet category: 2607 Magnet Holder 2 x 3 with Clips and Pin Hole. It connects to Magnet Cylindrical.

---
Tags: part-identification
---


# Question
Title: Is there a true ball/sphere LEGO piece (or pieces that together form a ball/sphere)?
I recently started experimenting with GBC machines build out of LEGO.

Ball bearings are ideal as balls (have a lot of momentum due to their weight), but are also impacting on the LEGO bricks hard enough that (eventually) they make the plastic crack. (This limits what you can do in the GBC design. You need to avoid large drops or high-speed bumps into end-stops.)

So I'm currently using glass marbles for balls at the moment.

Ideally I would like to use LEGO for the balls.
I realize they would be very lightweight which poses some design issues for some of the mechanisms, but finding solutions to that is part of the fun.

Unfortunately I don't seem to be able to find either single piece LEGO balls or sets of multiple LEGO pieces (like 2 half-domes) that together form a proper ball.

I'm looking for a ball shape with a diameter of at least 2 studs. (Between 2 and 3 studs would be perfect for my purpose, but somewhat larger would be fine too.)
I'm OK with something that has a hole into which an axle, pin or stud can be fitted.
I'm NOT OK with a stud sticking out, because that would affect the rolling behavior too much. A recessed stud that doesn't stick out beyond the outline of the sphere would be OK.

If a true ball/sphere is possible in LEGO, what piece(s) do I need ?

# Answer
> 8 votes
There are several ball designs that fit your needs (and are commonly used for GBC machines) - a selection :

# Answer
> 6 votes
If we're going to mention much larger spheres and sphere-like objects (and I don't see why not), there's also:

* 60934 Bionicle Tridax Pod Half

* 61287 Cylinder Hemisphere 2 x 2 with Cutout (I know it as Jack Sparrow's globe)

* 98107 Cylinder Hemisphere 11 x 11, Studs on Top (usually decorated)

* 852171 Phantoka Ball Shooter, along with 852279 Accessory Pack EVA Balls (neither of which I'd ever known of before today)

# Answer
> 0 votes
Also Lego set 7029 has a plastic "boulder" that could be an option.

---
Tags: piece-information, shapes, gbc
---


# Question
Title: I would like to know what set these parts belong - Gold design brick, harpoon spikes, columns, and pink streamers
Gold design brick, harpoon spikes, columns, and pink streamers. Anyone know this?

# Answer
> 13 votes
That is from Cinderella's Dream Castle (41154)

Set identified by unique combination of Support 1 x 1 x 6 Solid Pillar in Pearl Gold and Brick 1 x 4 in Lavender color.

---
Tags: set-identification
---


title: Grill decal on a sloped white piece

text:
# Question
Title: Grill decal on a sloped white piece
In this bag there is a grill decal on a slope white piece and a minifigure in a black suit with brown hair. what set would this belong to?

# Answer
> 9 votes
BrickLink calls the part 3297pb051 Slope 33 3 x 4 with Black and Pearl Dark Gray Vertical Grille Pattern and it's only in 75302 Imperial Shuttle

---
Tags: set-identification
---


title: many round white pieces and gray

text:
# Question
Title: many round white pieces and gray
I don't see any parts that are unique here.

# Answer
Based on the number of 4515347: PLATE 4X4 ROUND W. SNAP in white, this bag is from

75302: Imperial Shuttle
> 2 votes

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: What set do these parts belong to? Bag 4 with lots of dark red
I cannot find these parts anywhere!

# Answer
Based on 4286597: PLATES W. BOWS 2X2, 6114676: PLATE W. BOWS 2X1½ and the ball socked elements, this bag is from 76104: The Hulkbuster Smash-Up
> 3 votes

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: The bag includes a minifigure, whites, grays, and black
windows, doors, and blue opalesence parts. minifigure with dark gray suit but I have no clue on these.

# Answer
Using orange Tile Round 2x2 with hole and white Brick 1x16 I found 60228-1 Deep Space Rocket and Launch Control. This set also has windows and rounded white pieces visible in the bag.
> 6 votes

---
Tags: set-identification
---


title: There are tan and gray pieces

text:
# Question
Title: There are tan and gray pieces
And the two flame pieces, with smaller bag inside.

# Answer
> 6 votes
I started looking at sets containing a 6L technic axle in red, and I soon came across 60216-1 Downtown Fire Brigade :

Your bag looks like it contains the main building there - 1x6x5 tan panels, 1x4 bricks with brick pattern, 1x6x1 grey arches, they're all in there.

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: This bag has reds, yellows, grays, blacks, and wheels
This bag has reds, yellows, grays, blacks, and wheels. Includes a shovel.

# Answer
60183-1 Heavy Cargo Transport based on White Tile, Round 2 x 2 with Open Stud, Red Plate, Modified 1 x 8 with Door Rail, Dark Bluish Gray Plate, Round 4 x 4 with Hole
> 5 votes

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: Only green parts and there is no bag number for this bag
Three different colors of green in this bag.

# Answer
> 3 votes
11005-1 Creative Fun based on Lime Slope, Inverted 45 2 x 2 with Flat Bottom Pin, Green Brick, Round 2 x 2 with Axle Hole, Lime Tile, Round 2 x 2 with Bottom Stud Holder

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: There is no bag number for this bag - all yellows and oranges and variants
This bag has yellow and orange parts and the lego tool.

# Answer
> 1 votes
It's also 31105 based on the green bag you also posted in another question, but also because only that set has all of Yellow Brick 2 x 8, Yellow Brick, Round 1 x 1 Open Stud, and some color of Brick 1 x 1 x 3.

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: I have not had any luck with this part bag - white dish, white plates, Technic
Can someone please help identifying what set it is?

# Answer
Based on 6279885: TECHNIC ANGULAR BEAM 4X6, 4163986: PLATE 4X6 W. 12 KNOBS and 4168072: PLATE 4X12 this must be 75302: Imperial Shuttle

This also match up with 2017 copyright mark on the bag, which means your particular copy is produced in 2017 or later as this set is from 2021.
> 6 votes

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: Do Duplo trains fit Megablock train tracks?
Do Duplo trains fit Megablock train tracks (given in the picture)?

Note that all the Megablock 2x2, 2x4, etc blocks fit Duplo. I just have never heard about Megablock train tracks' compatibility.

# Answer
> 6 votes
Short answer: No

Long answer: Nooooooo

Size comparison of the trains:

The Duplo train does **not** fit:

The Duplo train does **not** fit:

However: some of you may be thinking of the old Duplo Road pieces, like from set 3267

The tracks seem similar in width:

But the Mega Bloks train does not *quite* fit.

Based on the slightly greater width of the Mega Bloks track, I would expect the Duplo vehicles from that set to fit on the Mega Bloks track (but perhaps not be able to corner that well).

---
Tags: clone-brands, trains, duplo, tracks
---


# Question
Title: Help identifying bricks set - Tan brown black bricks, gold cones
I have bag of Lego but can’t identify what they are. Package number 7 with 728R0 on the bag. Tan brown black bricks some gold cones and single red piece

# Answer
Based on the extremely scarce information provided (take photographs when asking for set identifications, **please**!), I've scoured sets containing 1x1 cone in pearl gold:

* With more than one pearl gold cone
* Big enough to have at least seven bags
* With a predominance of tan/brown/black

Of those, the only possible match I could find is 7327-1 Scorpion Pyramid. According to the instructions, bag 7 builds the tip of the pyramid, an obelisk, and some decorations...

... with three pearl gold cones, quite a lot of tan and dark tan (easily mistaken with "brown") and some black, but also some blue parts (that OP doesn't mention), and not one but two red snakes.

I've looked at the instruction booklets of other sets, and bag 7 doesn't match my criteria.

Again, this is based on very limited information, and good photographs of the bag (or the parts themselves) are the reliable way of identifying sets.
> 6 votes

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: A query about the balance of the 42130 - BMW M 1000 RR model
I have reached assembly step 632. The bike has a tendency to lean forward with most of the weight at the front, and is only just staying on the display stand. Has anyone else experienced this issue?

Edit:

I have now completed the build and the bike is definitely front loaded and sits with its wheel on the desk and the rear end raised. Again, has anyone else found this issue ?

Here is a picture to illustrate the problem.

Here is another picture to illustrate the problem.

# Answer
Your front and rear wheel/tires are likely swapped. I didn't realize until I finished the entire set and had the same problem as you. Swapping the front and rear tires solved my issue.
> 9 votes

# Answer
I do not have this issue. My model balances fine on that stand.

There are some elements behind the front wheel I leave out as they keep falling off (only attached on the studs of a couple of half pins) but that should hardly make a difference...

Here's a picture of the bottom of the bike, perhaps you've done something in error there ?
> 3 votes

---
Tags: technic, vehicle, weight
---


# Question
Title: What set would this belong to? Looks like a Star Wars ship, dark red, tan, grey
Would this be a Star Wars vehicle?

# Answer
> 5 votes
75186-1 The Arrowhead based on Light Bluish Gray Tile, Modified 4 x 4 with Studs on Edge and Dark Bluish Gray Panel 1 x 3 x 1; there are only 4 sets that have both, and only one looks anything like this.

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: What set do these two belong to? curved white spaceship with red stripe stickers
Am having trouble finding the set.

# Answer
> 4 votes
75249-1 Resistance Y-Wing Starfighter based on Light Bluish Gray Tile, Modified Facet 2 x 2 and Light Bluish Gray Plate, Modified 1 x 4 Offset (which is a weird name) - there are 4 sets, and only 1 has those stickers.

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: This looks like it may be part of a building
Can anyone help tell me what set it would belong to?

# Answer
There's only 5 sets with at least 12 of those Dark Bluish Gray Slope, Curved 2 x 1 x 1 1/3 with Recessed Stud, and only 1 has Green Dish 2 x 2 Inverted (Radar)

10218-1 Pet Shop
> 10 votes

# Answer
This build is from 10218: Pet Shop
> 9 votes

---
Tags: set-identification
---


# Question
Title: Help identifying a piece - round, about the size of a 1x1 brick
Brick has "C 16" on it.

# Answer
BrickLink calls it a 33286 Brick, Round 1 x 1 x 2/3 with Flower Edge (4 Knobs on Base)
> 4 votes

---
Tags: part-identification
---


# Question
Title: Extra wing pieces (21+22) in Ferrari Daytona 42143. Did I miss a step or did Lego get it wrong?
The Ferrari Daytona SP3 (42143) is supposed to have 10x 6319983 (small wing #22) and 11x 6316923 (small wing #21), both in black.

It says so on the part-list and they are in the box.

However I have 1 of each left-over after the build and I can't see where I missed an assembly step. (I may have missed something, but I can't figure out where, even after going over the 800+ pages of the instruction books again.)

As far as I can tell these pieces are located in the following spots on the model:

* Front lower spoiler: 2 of each
* Head light surrounds: 1 of each
* Front side spoilers: 1 of each
* Rear diffusor and valence: 4 of each
* engine top-cover: 1 of each
* And 1x #21 on the passenger side of the dashboard.

That all adds up as 9x #22 and 10x #21.

Either I missed something (can someone please tell me where in the model they were supposed to go) or Lego got their part-count wrong.

Which one is it?

# Answer
> 9 votes
The instructions had several errors. Here's an overview: https://racingbrick.com/2022/06/lego-technic-42143-ferrari-daytona-sp3-instructions-errors-and-fixes/

One of them is the two panels you mentioned, they ideally should be added in step 1127, but you should be able to add them afterwards as well. There should be two red axles sticking at the back near the bottom where they attach.

Jordan Paxton (Engagement manager for the Lego group) was at the Parades De Coura lego fan weekend last weekend and explained during a Q&A session that the missing instructions happened because of something earlier in the build steps that needed to be updated and the update cascaded until this step and caused missing pages.

I've been told that rather interestingly the parts are also missing in the picture of the model on the box-art.

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Tags: technic, instructions
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# Question
Title: Trying to identify this piece - 2x2 flat bit with a longer rounded part with ridges
I’m trying (and failing) to identify this piece for my son

What would you call this?

# Answer
That would be Engine, Strakes, 2 x 2 Thin Top Plate.

It appears in a small number of Classic Space sets.
> 5 votes

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Tags: part-identification
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title: Keeping LEGO near heat source

text:
# Question
Title: Keeping LEGO near heat source
I keep some of my opened built LEGO sets in the top of my book shelf, around two feet away is a fire place that is turned on during the winter time. Will keeping my LEGO sets here damage them in any way from the heat coming from the fireplace? I looked at one of my sets after about a month and saw a slight color change on the exposed sides of the bricks that are not being covered by other bricks. Am I just seeing things or is this serious? Also, just for some more reference, the fireplace heats the room at most to like 78 degrees Fahrenheit (25.6 °C).

# Answer
It is possible that UV light from the fire can cause damage to your bricks in the long term but it is not as much of a concern as sunlight.

In regards to heat, the biggest danger might not be to standard LEGO bricks but many other specialised pieces that are common in many sets. These factors will depend on the exposure and intensity of heat.

* Stickers subjected to heat easily warp and peel, discolouration may occur.
* Rubber bricks such as tyres are particularly vulnerable, extended exposure to heat can cause them to be oily and eventually brittle.
* Electronic components such as Power Functions and NXT. Most of these sets will contain safety instructions detailing limitations and ideal conditions. Some sets will require electronics with alkaline/lithium batteries which have their own tolerances. Most of these instructions will probably advise against any exposure to heat sources out of caution.
* There are other more unusual materials that are less common like string, felt, foam and paper that may react differently or not at all.

Most LEGO pieces are made from ABS plastic but there are developments into recycled plastics as well as bioplastics. Naturally, different plastics have different properties and will react differently, even different colours can fade at different rates. White bricks for example tend to yellow first.

If you have some spare bricks that you don't mind experimenting with, it might be worth trying to see which parts/colours are affected near the fireplace and compare them to identical parts stored elseware?
> 1 votes

# Answer
This might count as anecdotal evidence only, but I keep part of my collection in shelves about three centimeters away from a couple of heating pipes (covered by a plastic sheet to prevent dust buildup):

Those pipes carry water (maybe about 70˚C-80˚C) during winter, and the collection has spent maybe ten winters like that. Those pipes alone heat the entire room (~10m²) to over 25˚C.

From what I can tell, there's no change in colour due to proximity to a heat source. Nevertheless, those 2x4 white bricks from the 1970s are notably yellowed (due to years of exposure to indirect sunlight), as are some bits of my 6930 (because I used to play outdoors with it during summertime), but note that the white flagpoles from the early 1990s are whiter, despite being much closer to the heat source.

I can't see any discernible decoloration, nor warping, nor lack of clutch, on the (1970s-80s) bricks closest to the heating pipes:

Flexibility of the baseplates seems to be unaffected as well.

In any case, YMMV.
> 1 votes

# Answer
Storing Lego boxes is ideal in lower to medium temperatures. Ideally without any UV rays. Old paper archives have temperatures of around 14° - 20° Celsius and a humidity of lower than 40%. It is definitely not advisable to store your Sets next to the fireplace and I would move them a few metres away.
> -2 votes

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Tags: sets, storage
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# Question
Title: Technic pin on a pole: is it an illegal technique?
I have two 2714b pieces that I want to put together to make a longer pole. Is sliding the technic pin of one pole over the end of another pole illegal? (If it is, how else could I make a long and thin pole like this?)

# Answer
TLG has been using "bar inside Technic pin" technique, so I assume this is considered legal connection. One thing to consider though - some newer elements with pins are no longer round inside, so you cannot fit *bar* type of element there anymore.

One example from 42043 set (I'm sure there are more examples, but this is something I had in my head immediately):

Roof assembly has these LBG Technic, Pin 1/2 with 2L Bar Extension (Flick Missile)

Later, in Step 64, you have horns attached with half pins.
> 6 votes

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Tags: technic, building
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title: Missing Decals After Purchasing

text:
# Question
Title: Missing Decals After Purchasing
Good day, I just bought a brand new Lego Speed Champion Toyota GR Supra 7690. After reaching home and unboxing it, I realized that my set was missing the decals. Is there any way that I can get the decals for my Lego set?

# Answer
> 6 votes
I had a similar problem with my McLaren Elva, the printing of the stickers was severely misaligned with the cutting.

I used the Lego Customer Service Missing Bricks form to report the problem and they sent me a replacement free of charge, not even shipping.

Side note: It did take about two months to arrive, likely due to the pandemic and the fact that I'm out of the way in New Zealand. But I hope you get yours sooner.

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Tags: stickers
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# Question
Title: Identify 2017 Bag #2? Cash register and “I love HLC” stickers
Can anyone help identify this Friends set? Bag #2 has 2017 copyright with “511R8” on bag. Cash register and “I love HLC” stickers in set.

# Answer
Is it this piece? That is 87552pb049 and only shows up in 10763 Stephanie's Lakeside House

This piece isn't a sticker, but shows up in multiple sets that have a cash register.
> 3 votes

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Tags: set-identification
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title: Why don't LEGO Minifigures have ears?

text:
# Question
Title: Why don't LEGO Minifigures have ears?
My five year old, Oakley, would like to ask

> Why don't LEGO men have ears?

# Answer
> 17 votes
I can not give you an answer on behalf of TLG, but I can give you some good reasons as to why Minifigures do not have ears.

Authenticity: Lego figures have never had ears. In fact, the first figures did not even have faces, or articulating limbs. They were very basic. Here is a photo showing the basic evolution of minifigures over the years. The first 'figures' were introduced in the mid-1900s.

Functionability: Adding ears to the head mold would greatly complicate things for Lego. Apart from the fact that ears would be likely to be broken off or get damaged, they would affect the compatability of heads.

All standard mold lego heads can fit just about every mold of hat and hair. However, if TLG started making heads with ears, they would have to redesign every single 'headgear' and 'hair' mold so that they would fit around/over the ears. As a result, for figures where ears are necessary, they are part of the headgear mold, not the head. You can see this in these two examples.

I hope that answers your son's question, and that you can simplify the reasons for him :)

# Answer
> 7 votes
I thought it might be worth including one of the precursors to the beloved Lego minifigures; Maxifigures (Homemaker Figures). They *did* have ears:

If you compare these hair pieces to those of common minifigures, you can see that there is an implied ear in the profile of the side:

# Answer
> 5 votes
While there are no visible ears recently deaf minifigs have been introduced.
I have Missions Animal rescue 60353 which has a Minifigure with a hearing aid. I don't have or know what other sets have deaf Minifigures. Probably this the closest to ears that can be seen.

# Answer
> 1 votes
Just to add to, or elaborate on, the other good answer(s); It may solely come down to the cost of production. I remember reading on several occasions that the molds were very expensive to make. Having a simplified shape make the part a more universal piece, not just for minifigure heads. That being said, I suppose they could have printed them on. But that has it's own potential problems mentioned in the previous comments.

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Tags: minifigures
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