# Question
Title: Can anyone find a photo of the "LEGO bricks, not LEGOS" insert?
Debates aside; I have been told that there used to exist a message either in Lego catalogs or inserts in boxes that reads as this:

> The word LEGO® is a brand name and is very special to all of us in the LEGO Group Companies. We would sincerely like your help in keeping it special. Please always refer to our bricks as 'LEGO Bricks or Toys' and not 'legos.' By doing so, you will be helping to protect and preserve a brand of which we are very proud and that stands for quality the world over. Thank you! Susan Williams, Consumer Services.

Does anyone have a photo of this insert or catalog text that they could share?

# Answer
Here you go, from a scan of a 1985 US catalog at Brickset:

The text reads, verbatim:

> ***Dear Parents and Children***
>
> LEGO® is a brand name that is very special to all of us in the LEGO Group Companies. We would sincerely appreciate your help in keeping it special by referring to our bricks as "LEGO Bricks or Toys" and not just "LEGOS". By doing so, you will be helping to protect and preserve a brand name that stands for quality the world over.
>
> If at any time we can be of service to you regarding our products, please feel free to write to us.
>
> *Susan Williams*

The text you quote above is slightly different and may be a variant from a different year, or perhaps it's just slightly misremembered.

It's from one of the "mini-catalogs" that came with the sets, so this was both a catalog and a box insert.

I don't see any such message in the 1978 catalog, but the one from 1979 has this:

which reads:

> ***Dear Parents and Children***
>
> The word LEGO® is a special one. It's our very own brand name for the brick supplied by our Company, LEGO Systems, Inc.
>
> Look for the name "LEGO" - we're proud of it. It's on every brick we make!
>
> *Susan Williams* Susan Williams Customer Service

The handwritten "Dear Parents and Children" appears to be completely identical, as does the "Susan Williams" signature. But, the famous admonition does not appear.

However, in 1980...

> ***Dear Parents and Children***
>
> The word LEGO® is a brand name, and is very special to all of us in the LEGO Group Companies. We would sincerely like your help in keeping it special. Pleas always referring to our bricks as "LEGO Bricks or Toys" and not "LEGOS". By doing so, you will be helping to protect and preserve a brand of which we are very proud, that stands for quality the world over. Thank you!
>
> *Susan Williams* Customer Services

This continues (with slight variations in the text) through 1986, but in 1987, the request is gone:

\]

> ***Dear Parents and Children***
>
> The LEGO Group takes great pride in DUPLO® and LEGO® brand toys, and if we can be of service to you regarding our products, please write to us.
>
> *Susan Williams* Customer Services
> 25 votes

# Answer
I don't have a picture of the insert, but according to Matt Hamilton on meta, a very similar notice was once at the legos.com URL:
> 9 votes

# Answer
There is a page on the LEGO web site about Fair Play which is very much available and not "used to". The wording is a bit different, though:

> If the LEGO trademark is used at all, it should always be used as an adjective, not as a noun. For example, say "MODELS BUILT OF LEGO BRICKS". Never say "MODELS BUILT OF LEGOs".Also, the trademark should appear in the same typeface as the surrounding text and should not be isolated or set apart from the surrounding text. In other words, the trademarks should not be emphasized or highlighted. Finally, the LEGO trademark should always appear with a ® symbol each time it is used.

The page also links to a brochure which is certainly worth reading (although it's not quite what you requested).

Edit: as far as inserts in actual catalogues go, I don't really remember seeing any. Iv'e had a look in the book 50 Years of the LEGO Brick which contains copies of a few older catalogues, but didn't find anything.

It's also interesting to know that in that book itself, LEGO is usually written without the trademark ®, and that quite a few times is is used as a noun as a shorctut for "The LEGO Company".
> 5 votes

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Tags: history, lego-group
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# Question
Title: Are LEGO elements safe to use in an aquarium with fish?
Are LEGO elements safe to use in an aquarium with fish? I've never seen LEGO elements in a working fishtank.

# Answer
The main restaurant in the LEGOLAND park in Windsor has quite a lot of LEGO creations in fishtanks. In the same park, the Sealife attraction 'Atlantis Submarine Voyage' has 50 species of sharks, rays and tropical fish that happily coexist with the LEGO models.

Keep in mind that LEGO is safe from children saliva, which I'm willing to bet is more aggressive than fishtank water.
> 20 votes

# Answer
LEGO bricks should be safe for fish. Avoid using small parts that they could mistake for food. You also might be cautious on the paint, but I'm sure it's still safer than the paint used on the cheap stuff you'll find at fish stores.
> 10 votes

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Tags: plastics, safety, water
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# Question
Title: How much heat can LEGO bricks withstand?
I was thinking on making a decorative LEGO candle holder. It would be made out of regular ABS LEGO bricks, but also transparent ones. Because there will be an open flame involved, I want to make sure my LEGO bricks don't melt.

How much heat can LEGO bricks withstand?

# Answer
> 32 votes
* ABS maximum temperature is 80°C (176°F) and melt at 105°C (221°F)
* Polycarbonate plastic used for transparent bricks melt at 267°C (512.6°F)

Since a candle flame has a temperature in excess of 1000°C (1832°F). I would advise against making a candle holder of LEGO bricks.

Plastic types are explained on this question.

# Answer
> 5 votes
I had Lego MOCs loose their clutch on me after being left in a car for 9 hours during the summer. Outside temp was about 100F, so inside was quite a bit hotter. After this, I had to glue the MOCs back together.

So, the shorter answer is that I'd imagine that a candle could damage the plastics at least to the point where the bricks would not hold together very well.

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Tags: durability, plastics
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title: Best way to store instruction manuals?

text:
# Question
Title: Best way to store instruction manuals?
Currently I store LEGO set manuals and instructions in hanging file folders in a file box, grouped by set type. This makes it hard to dig through and find the one I need, and manuals tend to get tangled up and damaged.

Is there any storage method that protects the instructions better and makes them easier to find the one I need?

# Answer
> 10 votes
For physical manuals, I personally like to use clear presentation sheet protectors similar to the ones that @BradC mentioned. Regarding organization, I place the ones that I refer to frequently in some binders, sorted by theme, while sets that I don't use as much go into a set of hanging file folders.

If you don't mind electronic storage, you could download all of your manuals, either from Lego's site (for sets since 2002), or from other fan sites as noted in this Squidoo page:

> Still no joy? Let's try another site. Go to Worldbricks, choose Instructions Number and pick a number range from the dropdown list at the top of the screen, or Instructions Theme and pick a starting letter from the dropdown list.
>
> Without knowing the number or name, you can still find the set. Several sites provide databases of lego sets which you can search by theme, or using a single word you remember from the set name, or even just something related. Try LUGNET or Peeron, which will link you to instructions once you find the set.

Electronic viewing keeps my manuals in pretty good condition - I minimize touching and only pull them out when I build now, while if I just want to browse, I can fire up my computer.

# Answer
> 4 votes
What about clear sheet protectors like these inside a 3-ring binder? I imagine most are designed to hold a single page, and not an entire booklet, but these heavy-duty acid-free ones could be up to the task:

You could have separate binders for different product lines, and sort by set number or name, and the cover of each would be visible as you browse through. Anyone ever try something like this?

(I'm imagining sliding the entire booklet into a single protector, not slicing it up into individual pages. Would these comic book inserts work better, with a fold over top, or is 7-1/4 x 10-3/8" too small for the larger instructions?)

# Answer
> 3 votes
My wife found some magazine holders to keep her magazines organized in a 3 ring binder. Those might be helpful for some of the larger manuals.

Storing them in order by set number or alphabetically by set name and including an index sheet could help you find the sets easier.

# Answer
> 2 votes
If I could motivate myself, I'd be tempted to use scanned PDFs and would put the paper originals in a box, in plastic bags, like precious comic books. I'd use the model numbers to refer to them, plus collection folder names (both for physical and digital documents)

My kids are currently in the process of shredding my 20-30 years old instructions manuals (which admittedly, don\`t really need any help for falling apart).

Side note, I'm generally against late ideas I'm hearing about providing instruction via computer support only.

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Tags: instructions, storage
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# Question
Title: What are the differences between the NXT and the RCX?
What are the differences between the NXT and the RCX? I know that the NXT is newer, but what features does it have that the RCX doesn't have, and vice versa (if the RCX has features that the NXT doesn't)?

# Answer
> 18 votes
| NXT | RCX |
| --- | --- |
| 3 motor and 4 sensor ports | 3 motor and 3 sensor ports |
| Has encoders integrated in its motors so that they can be used as servos | Would need an additional rotation sensor on a sensor port to use as servos |
| Uses RJ12 connectors with the latch offset to one side | Uses regular 9V connectors (2x2 with metal in studs) |
| Uses a direct USB cable or Bluetooth for connection | Uses infrared to communicate with PC via an IR tower connected by a serial (1.0, 1.1) or USB (2.0) |
| Graphical 100X64 matrix display | Small numerical display with many limits |
| Technic oriented - uses technic pieces (no studs) | System oriented (studs) with small amount of technic |
| Uses graphical programming language with many features1 | Uses a limited graphical programming language (apparently can't even run on XP) |
| Can play 8Khz wav files | Can play simple tones |
| Uses 6 AA batteries very quickly | Uses batteries more slowly |
| 256 KB of flash memory that can hold a max. of 64 files of varying types | 32 KB of RAM that can store up to only 5 programs |

* The original 1.0 version of RCX Brick had a 10v connection plug, but this was dropped from the later versions included in the Robotics Invention System 1.5. The NXT can use a rechargeable battery in place of the six AA batteries, and the rechargeable batteries also have a 10v transformer plug.
* RCX retains its memory (including firmware) for a very limited time when not powered, just enough to change batteries. NXT uses flash memory and keeps it all when not powered.

1: Note that even powerful computers have trouble running big programs, and can easily mess them up. There exist many third-party systems for both RCX and NXT. Full list on Wikipedia.

# Answer
> 7 votes
The NXT can, with the use of an adapter cable, use the RCX sensors and motors, however the RCX can not use the NXT sensors and motors. The NXT brick, motors and sensors are larger than the RCX counterparts which makes them harder to implement into a size constrained construction. However as said, you can use the RCX motors/sensors instead with the NXT brick if wanted.

The NXT programming possibilities are far greater than the RCX, both in the official and third-party languages. It has far more RAM and CPU to work with, where the RCX is a bit limited in this regard.

There is a large selection of 3rd party NXT sensors, from highly sensitive light sensors to touch screens, WIFI and GPS sensors. The NXT simply more possibilities as it provides both an analog and digital interface to sensor developers. (And it can use all the RCX custom sensors too of course.) The NXT wires are however thicker and less flexible than the RCX wires, so they are a bit harder to hide/control in your construction. You can also get some pretty long RCX wires, up to 1.5m in length iirc.

# Answer
> 4 votes
RCX was a surpise hit. For NXT, TLG approached a select set of individuals in the community and picked their brains.

The NXT is very open; schematics are available for sensors, 3rd-party sensors are available, etc.

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Tags: mindstorms, rcx, nxt
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# Question
Title: How can I make a working pin tumbler lock?
I'd like to make a working pin tumbler lock out of LEGO bricks. I have already designed a key I'd like to use that should be compatible with five cylinder lock.

# Answer
This would push the pins up and down like a normal key would.

Here is the basic system. I don't have time to build to whole thing but this resolves the main problem and proves the feasibility.

The main problem was to reproduce the pins system with LEGO bricks since each pins needs to have different lengths. Early in this project, I wanted to have a 'analog' approach of setting the pins length so to not be constrained by only stacking plates. For that I used axle perpendicular-joiner (6536) on an axle to build the driver pins (top pins):

The key pins (lower pins) are caped with angles connectors (32013) creating the needed round tips on which the key can push.

In a standard pin tumbler lock system, if the right key is not pushing on the pins, both the driver pins and the key pins can prevent the rotation motion. If the key tooth is too low, the driver pins is blocking and, if the key tooth is too high, the key pin is blocking. In my system the driver pins are doing both functions.

In the prototype the red rounded beam and the driver pins would be fixed while the rest would rotating with the key. In the following picture you can see the lock without the key. In that state all the driver pins go through the black Technic beam (under the red rounded beam). This would prevent the key from turning.

In the following picture the key is now inserted and all the driver pins are now flushed. In this position ther driver keys are not engaged into the beams that are part of the rotating module. This enables the key to turn.

If the wrong key is used or the key is not inserted correctly, the pins would be either too low or too high engaging into the beams that are part of the rotating module and thus preventing rotation.

**Movie time!** Here's a video demonstrating the mechanism.

The biggest downsides of this system are the size and the fact that the driver pins are not pushed down by spring but by gravity. Both of those troubles are put to shame by the total awesomeness of having a functioning pin tumble lock made of LEGO bricks.
> 29 votes

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Tags: technic, building, design
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title: How can I build a functional gearbox?

text:
# Question
Title: How can I build a functional gearbox?
I'm looking for a fully functional (manual) transmission / gearbox for my Technics motorized vehicle. How can I build this?

# Answer
there are some lego-models that have a working gearbox built-in like the super street sensation (8448). just take a loot at the building instruction* to see how it works.

**page 18, 26, 72-81*
> 10 votes

# Answer
Funny that you are asking because I just rebuilt my old 4x4 OffRoader (8466) with my son. it's a 4 wheels drive, V8 with a functional 5 speed gearbox (including reverse).

and in the truck (with the gearbox cover):

Looking at it in action is really good to understand the basics of a car's transmission.
> 9 votes

# Answer
I made a compact 6-speed, which you can find CAD and .pdf instructions in this brickshelf folder. (Maybe one was reverse, I don't quite remember...) Please bear in mind that it wasn't intended to be motorized and might not perform well under load. However it should give you an understanding on how it can be done.

If you do not have those special gearbox transmission parts, you can do it by sliding a cross-axle with gears on, in one position it will be connected to one gear, in another position it will be connected to another gear. See this design by Sariel for clarification.
> 1 votes

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Tags: technic, power-functions, vehicle
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# Question
Title: How would you make a good pivot-arm suspension?
I once tried to make a 4 wheeled Lego robot using a pivot arm suspension system. The robot was motorized using 2 Mindstorm (2.0) motors (one one each side). I can't find and original picture but it looked like this big black one:

I used a Lego Technic turntable as the single point of rotation between the two robot sides bu the robot sagged a lot and there was so much pressure on that piece that it would not rotate well.

**Q:** How would you build a 4 wheels rover pivot arm suspension system? Considering that it needs to be motorized thus adding the weight of two motors.

Note: The pivot arm design can be one of those two:

**Edit 1**: To give an idea of the size, I'm using this Technic wheels. The final model is about 20cm long and 20cm wide.

# Answer
I got inspired by the idea of a vertical Slewing Bearing. I made this “horrible” prototype to demonstrate the principles.

One side of the assembly has a fixed wheel attached to it using multiple pins. The other side has multiple bearings. The idea is that the vertical weight is shared between the bearings (on one side) and between the pins supporting the wheel (on the other side). This way, the axle supports only a part of the weight. In the final design the axle should be much longer and use many bushes preventing the two sides from separating.
> 8 votes

# Answer
This may sound like a naive approach, but isn't the turntable overkill in this case?

Did you try a simple Technic pin peg to connect both parts if the robot, or do you actually need some transmission to go from one half to the other?

If a Technic peg isn't robust enough, maybe an axle would do the trick. I'd suggest using one Technic Axle 8 with Stop (), on which you first slide 3 regular Technic, Brick 1 x 2 with Hole () which will be attached to one half of your model, then 5 Technic, Brick 1 x 2 with Axle hole () which will be attached to the other. Maybe the strain on the axle will be too much (I read it's prone to breaking), but it could be worth trying.

And if that's not solid enough, build a staple of 2x2 round plates around an axle, fix that to one half of the model, and build a hole on the other half to have it slide in (a square hole is fine and easy to build: just a two bricks wide, two bricks high gap and you cover the studs underneath with a tile. Use archs if you want for the higher half, but don't bother for the bottom one). Of course you have to finish the pseudo-axle with something bigger than 2x2 to lock it in place.

And if THAT's not enough, there are 4x4 round plates now with which you could do the same.
> 5 votes

# Answer
Spread the weight using gears.

Essentially you'll have 4 segments connected to a center gearbox. Use 9 bevel gears in the gearbox, with 6 on the outside.

(Yellow=bricks, Black=rods, Grey=gears)

For strength you can have reinforcements going from the gearbox to the other side of the legs to box it in.
> 2 votes

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Tags: technic, building, power-functions, robotic
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title: Who is (or was) Susan Williams?

text:
# Question
Title: Who is (or was) Susan Williams?
I've heard the name "Susan Williams" associated with LEGO products, especially in the 1980s. Who is / was she?

# Answer
> **Q: All of the LEGO catalogs are signed by Susan Williams. Is she a real person?**
>
> A: No...Susan Williams is the personifcation of all those helpful Consumer Affairs people who work at LEGO. As for whether or not there ever was a Susan Williams at LEGO, we're not sure.

http://www.lugnet.com/pause/legoqa.html
> 14 votes

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Tags: history, lego-group
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# Question
Title: What is the first day of the 2011 Star Wars advent calendar supposed to be?
I opened the Star Wars Advent Calendar 2011 early and I don't get what the set on the first day is. I'm not much of a Star Wars fan I guess. I can't identify it as any particular ship and my only guess is it's a part of a bigger set for later.

And the worst part is I can't find it on the box anywhere. Lego is usually really good with the imagery and usually exaggerates the final product (by making it look bigger or whatever) but it seems only a fraction of the 25 mini models are shown on the box.

Has anyone else opened it up?

# Answer
I don't have it, but BrickLink already has inventories of all submodels.

According to them, day 1 is a Republic Cruiser. This is a mini version of 7665 — Republic Cruiser.

They do look quite similar for sets of a such different scale:

Sadly, Wookiepedia doesn't have a picture of a republic-class cruiser, but I suppose that's what it is.
> 18 votes

# Answer
## Republic Cruiser

Is this the one you were looking for? You can see the entire selection of mini-models on Bricklink.
> 11 votes

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Tags: star-wars, advent-calendar
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# Question
Title: How many copies of each set are produced?
Is there any way to find out how many copies of a set were produced? I would like to know how rare some of my older sets actually are.

# Answer
There is an indication of the rarity of a set in the LEGO Collector's Guide.

I assume it's the same in the second edition as well, as this is what the two reviews of it on Brickset have to say:

> **Rarity Rating.** This would be more useful if it represented actual production or sales figures instead of market trends.

> The rating system is the same, and unfortunately the explanation (do you still remember? "This rating evaluates the rareness of the certain item (and not its value!) considering a complete item in very good condition including building instruction, all stickers AND box (if applicable). Markets like eBay, BrickLink and other sources have been considered for this evaluation - on a global level."\[copied from my feedback to the 2008 edition review\]) has not been extended, highlighted or moved to a place where it will be less ignored. Additionally, this rating will always give room for discussion, especially as it would require continuous updates.

So you can see both reviews consider this rating system to be pretty much useless (and the reviews of first editions weren't better) and it doesn't indeed compare to actual figures. However, the fact that they weren't able to secure any is probably a fairly good indication that these figures are not available to the general public. (And knowing LEGO, there's a chance that they haven't kept figures themselves from the distant past anyway.)

So while this is far from an actual answer to your question, the rarity rating of the Collector's Guide is probably the closest you'll ever get. Maybe a future edition will have more, but I wouldn't count on it.
> 10 votes

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Tags: manufacturing, investment
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title: Are the X-Pods balanced?

text:
# Question
Title: Are the X-Pods balanced?
I own a few X-Pods and want to play the X-Pod "Play-Off" game again. While I want my game pieces to look neat, I also want to win.

**Does each X-Pod have the same chance of winning?** If not, then I would be interested in knowing which one is superior.

Link to rules

# Answer
> 5 votes
It's been a while since I've played, and looking at the strengths and weaknesses of the individual pods does seem to make them look fairly equal. However, I distinctly remember that some sets had units that gave a slight advantage over other sets, at least for my style of playing.

For instance, the Aqua Pod has several units that can deconstruct and eat, but could not move very far. (Deconstruct reduces your opponent's unit by 1 level. Eat deconstructs an opponent's level 1 unit and raises your unit up 1 level.) While the Aero Pod has several that can move far and deconstruct, but do not have the special ability to eat.

In several games between these two Pods, I was able to win by moving next to my opponent's unit, battling till he was down to level 1, and then just eating him, thus raising the level of my unit back up by 1.

It may be that certain combinations of sets are more equally matched than others, or it could be that I was just better than my opponent :)

---

Edit:

(For a copy of the rules, starter kits, boards, and strategy guide see this question.)

The Advanced Rules and the Advanced Strategy Guide give a few pointers that can help your game.

For building a board, the Advanced Rules suggest:

> You should probably have at least 5 obstacles and no more than 9 for a balanced game.

As for strategies, they vary based on the abilities of the Pod you have chosen, and your opponent. (For complete strategies for each Pod against all other Pods, see the Advanced Strategy Guide)

## Aero Pod

> **Using Obstacles to Your Advantage**
>
> The chief advantage of the Aero Pod is that most of its units can fly or jump. This means that yellow units are much less restrained by obstacles than units of any other Pod. On an arena filled with obstacles, Aero Pod units are, at their best, able to avoid getting boxed in and to score quickly. On less blocked arena, the Aero Pod has less of an advantage, but its jumpers and fliers can move over enemies, while its raiders can move through them.

## Aqua Pod

> **Undersea Dining**
>
> Similar to the Wild Pod, the Aqua Pod has a well-balanced set up units and a few different strategies from which to choose. Pay attention to what team you’re up against to determine your strategy. Fast opponents require deconstructing units that have block them at choke point; slow opponents should be outrun with quick moving and jumping units. And don’t forget about your eat ability. Eating gives you an edge in deconstruction stand-oﬀs, so be sure to have some level-one units of your own on the board to rebuild and preserve your powerhouses.

## Arachno Pod

> **Getting the Opponent in your Web**
>
> Arachno units are pretty quick, so you’ll probably want to play an aggressive game where you try to score early and often. The web ability is a great aid to this strategy. Since web has a range of two, you’re able to maneuver your units easily to freeze opponents before they get near you. Use web to incapacitate oncoming units and either zip your faster units by to score, or moving into your deconstructing units to ﬁnish the job. Arachno works particularly well on open boards, where you can web opponents without blocking oﬀ your paths to the opponent’s row.

## Auto Pod

> **Quick Scoring**
>
> Auto Pod has the fastest units in the game. It has very few jumpers or ﬂiers, but it makes up for that lack in raw speed. What this means is that an Auto Pod player has a good chance of getting control of the board and scoring points earlier in the game. This strategy works best on open boards with few obstacles to block your units' movement. On more crowded boards, Auto Pod players have to rely on their pushing, carrying, and limited deconstruction abilities to break the opponent's line and create a path on which to score.

## Dragon Pod

> **Winning with Super-units**
>
> The center of a Dragon Pod team is its dragon unit. These four level units are easily the most powerful in the game, so using them eﬀectively is the key to victory. First, the number of units you can use with any individual dragon is limited, so picking a dragon will basically determine your strategy for that board. Your secondary units are fairly weak, so use the dragon aggressively and don’t be afraid to lose a level if it means taking out a key opponent. Still, be sure to have a couple good back-up cards and maybe even some Build and Place X-tras in case the dragon goes down.

## Monster Pod

> **Scaring Your Opponent Stiff**
>
> Monster Pod is a slow, steadily moving team with a powerful special ability: scare. What makes scare so powerful is that scaring happens automatically at the end of a turn. This means that every scaring unit freezes all adjacent opponent units every turn, even if you didn’t activate it. As a result, scaring units are terrific to leave near important intersections on the board to stop enemy movement. On the other hand, combining a scare unit with a carrying unit will give you an engine you can march across the board, and deconstructing frozen units is an easy way to clear the board.

## Robo Pod

> **Keeps Going and Going...**
>
> Robo Pod units have the most deconstructing units of any Pod so a lot of Robo Pod strategies are about taking apart your opponent's pieces. Use this advantage to guard your home row and hunt down enemy units to keep them from scoring. Robo Pod units also have an additional advantage that aids them in deconstruction - almost every Robo Pod unit continues to function at its lowest level. This means that your units have to be removed from the board to stop them from moving. Robo Pod works best on boards where there are choke points that its units can guard, and from which it can slowly march its units to victory.

## Wild Pod

> **Eating and the Value of Food**
>
> The Wild Pod has the most diversity of all of the Pods, which means that you have a few strategies to choose from. You'll want to tailor your units carefully for the Pod you're facing. The advantage that you have is that your units can eat. This means that any Wild Pod unit on the board can potentially reconstruct itself and that you have a unique edge in deconstructing others. Be sure to make use of the level one "food" units that the Wild Pod has. More powerful units can be accompanied by a couple of level one units that can restore its levels and make it safe from deconstruction. Using eat well can decimate your opponent's units and allow you to keep your super units for the duration of the game.

## Summary

The important thing is to know both your and your opponents strengths and weaknesses, but even the best strategy can be overcome by someone with no strategy. You must be prepared for anything and have a full knowledge of your own capabilities and how to use them.

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Tags: x-pods, play-off
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# Question
Title: Which BIONICLE combiner sets do official instructions exist for creating?
There is a diversity of BIONICLE combiner sets (sets made by *combining* multiple individual sets together) for various groups including Toa, Matoran, Bohrok, Rahkshi, Dark Hunters, and a number of Rahi species, listed here. They're encountered in the physical sets, in the comics and even in some of the movies.

Instructions for building some of these combiner sets can be found in the manuals for each of the individual sets used in making them. Which combiner sets are these?

# Answer
This can be the format we use for a community wiki

**"official" name:**
**Set(s) Release Date:**
**Set(s) required:**
**Model Picture:**
**Link to instructions:**

**"official" name:** Akamai
**Set(s) Release Date:** 2001~
**Set(s) required:** Tahu, Onua, and Pohatu(8531)
**Model Picture:**

**Link to instructions:** n/a

**"official" name:** Wairuha
**Set(s) Release Date:** 2001
**Set(s) required:** Gali(8533), Kopaka(8536), and Lewa(8535)
**Model Picture:**

**Link to instructions:** N/A

**"official" name:** Mata Nui Cow
**Set(s) Release Date:** 2001
**Set(s) required:** Pohatu(8531) and Gali(8533)
**Model Picture:**

**Link to instructions:** http://www.bzpower.com/Imaging/stories/mukau\_instructions.jpg

**"official" name:** Mata Nui Fishing Bird
**Set(s) Release Date:** 2002
**Set(s) required:** Kohrak Va(8551) and Nuhvok Va(8555)
**Model Picture:**

**Link to instructions:** http://club.lego.com/en-us/BuildIt/BuildingInstructions/fishing.aspx (link now dead)

**"official" name:** Bohrok Va Kaita 1
**Set(s) Release Date:** 2001
**Set(s) required:** Gahlok Va(8550), Kohrak Va(8551) and Lehvak Va(8552)
**Model Picture:**

**Link to instructions:** n/a

**"official" name:** Bohrok Va Kaita 2
**Set(s) Release Date:** 2001
**Set(s) required:** Pahrak Va(8553), Tahnok Va(8554) and Nuhvok Va(8555)
**Model Picture:**

**Link to instructions:** n/a

**"official" name:** Bohrok Kaita Ja
**Set(s) Release Date:** 2002~
**Set(s) required:** Lehvak(8564), Kohrak(8565), and Gahlok(8562)
**Model Picture:**

**Link to instructions:** N/A

**"official" name:** Bohrok Kaita Za
**Set(s) Release Date:** 2002~
**Set(s) required:** Bohrok(8561), Tahnok(8563), and Pahrak(8560)
**Model Picture:**

**Link to instructions:**

**"official" name:** Wairuha Nuva
**Set(s) Release Date:** 2003~
**Set(s) required:** Gali Nuva(8570), Lewa Nuva(8567), and Kopaka Nuva(8571)
**Model Picture:**

**Link to instructions:** N/A

**"official" name:** Akamai Nuva
**Set(s) Release Date:** 2003~
**Set(s) required:** Tahu Nuva(8572), Onua Nuva(8566), and Pohatu Nuva(8568)
**Model Picture:**

**Link to instructions:** n/a

**"official" name:** Bohrok Kaita Ja-Kal
**Set(s) Release Date:** 2003~
**Set(s) required:** Lehvak-Kal, Kohrak-Kal, and Gahlok-Kal
**Model Picture:**

**Link to instructions:** N/A

**"official" name:** Rahkshi Kaita Za
**Set(s) Release Date:** 2003~
**Set(s) required:** Turahk(8592), Lerahk(8589) and Kurahk(8588)
**Model Picture:**

**Link to instructions:** N/A

**"official" name:** Rahkshi Kaita Vo
**Set(s) Release Date:** 2003~
**Set(s) required:** Panrahk(8587), Guurahk(8590) and Vorahk(8591)
**Model Picture:**

**Link to instructions:** N/A
> 4 votes

---
Tags: instructions, bionicle
---


# Question
Title: Are there LDraw files for the standard Heroica components?
I'm using MLCAD to design and polish some Heroica maps. As I go I've made various LDraw files for the common map components (6x6 tiles with 4 spaces, 4x1 hallways, etc.) as well as some aliases for simple objects in particular colors (e.g. the gold pickups).

Am I duplicating work someone else has already done? If no one answers this in a few days I'll probably answer with my own archive.

Note that this is not a request for the Heroica sets in LDraw format - I've got manuals for that. I'm more interested in getting parts files that can be used to rapidly build my own levels.)

# Answer
> 6 votes
I've uploaded the Heroica LDraw parts I made to my website (and now there's even a site to go with it).

## My Parts

* Paths of length 2 and 4, and rooms in 2x2, L, and J shapes. The base and half the tiles can be recolored; the remaining tiles are fixed at dark gray.
* The length 3 bridge over a 4x4 water tile, used twice in Fortaan.
* The standard potions with fixed colors, and recolorable potion templates.
* The "character sheet" model. The 1 x 4 cross plate is recolorable.
* A treasure chest, fixed as brown.
* A gold piece, fixed as pearl gold.
* A health piece, fixed as red.
* A torch, fixed in color. This uses the unofficial 64647 LDraw part, included.
* A closed gate. The standard door piece is not available in the LDraw parts library or unofficial list, but the gate used to link Nathuz and Fortaan is.
* A magic door, fixed in color.
* Rocks, recolorable and standard dark gray.
* The ship dock, from Draida Bay, and the regular brown starting space.

## Included Unofficial Parts

These parts are real Lego parts, but have not made it into the LDraw part library yet. I've put them on the same site for convenience.

* 62808 - Minifig Key, by Andy Westrate
* 64647 - Minifig Plume/Flame Triple, by Philippe Hurbain. This is used as the top of the torches in Nathuz.

## Other Parts

Here are some parts that are invaluable, from the standard LDraw part library. If you're going to make Heroica levels, they belong in your MLCAD Favorites.

* 2343 - Minifig Goblet
* 3794 - Plate 1 x 2 with 1 Stud
* 3958 - Plate 6 x 6
* 30153 - Rock 1 x 1 Gem Faceted
* 41539 - Plate 8 x 8
* 64644 - Minifig Telescope
* 85863 - Microfig
* 87580 - Tile 2 x 2 with Groove and 1 Stud

## What do they look like?

Here's a POV-Ray render of the map I'm working on now, sans greebling. Except for the 16x16 center the rooms and paths all use the premade parts, and it features the chest, gold, and potion parts also.

By the way, these are the first reusable LDraw parts I've ever made, so it's possible there's some really horrible failure in them.

---
Tags: lego-games, heroica, ldraw
---


# Question
Title: Are there any health concerns with letting children use old LEGO kits?
I have a hoard of LEGO kits that passed from me to my nephew, and now to my son. Some of the kits that are included with the set date back to the early 1970's. Are there any health risks with passing the older kits down to my son? Have there ever been recalls or warnings published about the chemical make-up of older bricks?

# Answer
> 10 votes
The most important thing is to make you keep any swallowable magnet out of reach.

This is potentially lethal if two magnets are swallowed and attrach each other from different part of the intestine, as unfortunately did happen to a kid a few years back with some other toy. That's why LEGO has completely redesigned train magnets to be completely encased in the buffers, which are a way too big element to swallow.

# Answer
> 8 votes
The LEGO group pride themselves on their low product recall rate, which I believe generally only effects parts that break too easily or similar - often this is related to Primo or DUPLO components that are aimed at very young children.

I'm not aware of a recall due to the chosen materials - as noted in this question the LEGO Group switched to their current material (ABS) in 1963, however the exact composition may vary from modern bricks.

It probably wouldn't hurt to take a look at the advice for cleaning the bricks in warm, dilute soapy water or with a mild bleach.

Certainly any effects would have to be low level and based on long term exposure, as my kids haven't shown any adverse effects to using my collection from the late 70's onwards.

Just one further point of note: The original rubber bands from the Technic sets are prone to deterioration - so watch out for them giving way.

# Answer
> 7 votes
A health risk with old, well used hand me down bricks is the possibility of broken pieces and foreign objects like staples, glass shards, old batteries, (loose magnets!) and stuff being mixed in with the elements. It's always a good idea to check through them before you hand them over to the next generation of builders.

# Answer
> 5 votes
Nothing really worse than the newer kits, quite frankly.

Below 3 years old, they tend to explore what the world has to offer by putting small bricks in their tiny noses. for these reasons, an adult need to be there ***all the time*** brick toys are in use. If the bricks happen to be the adult\`s toy, rigorously stowing them away when not playing is in order.

# Answer
> 3 votes
Old bricks might just be plain dirty. If your LEGO sets have been collecting dust on a shelve for twenty years, you might want to clean them off first.

---
Tags: safety
---


# Question
Title: Is there a convention for part and/or set numbers?
Is there any rhyme or reason to the way LEGO part are named? Failing that, is there any other sort of taxonomy that we can use to find specific parts?

Along the same lines, my impression is that smaller sets have larger numbers -- is there any truth to that? Is there anything that we can discern this from either part or set numbers?

Finally, where can I look up all these numbers?

# Answer
> 26 votes
Usually, the LEGO group doesn't seem to have much organisation, at least in the past. That's why you can find sets with two different numbers, or two different sets with the same number.

Now the keyword here is *seem*, as I suppose there was some logic to it even in the past.

But nowadays there is some logic, and even if not all of it is understandable, you can at least spot some key elements, such as:

* When I was a kid and they started the 4 digits scheme, the first digit indicated the global theme pretty clearly. 8 was Technic, 6 was LEGOLAND, 77 were trains, and so on. At least for trains, they tended to use round numbers for bigger sets, ending in  or .
* Now, the first digit seems to have lost its significance, and sets in the same theme are usually attributed a range of numbers, with the small set getting the lowest number. It's not an absolute rule, and I guess it depends on availability or other factors.
* Sets in the 10000 range are LEGO shop exclusives. Usually, you will usually only find them on Shop@Home or in LEGO retail outlets, but not in regular toy stores.
* Sets in the 20000 range were used for the BrickMaster series, with each set accompanying a BrickMaster issue.
* Sets in the 20200 range will seemingly be used by the "LEGO Master Builder Academy" sets
* Sets in the 21000 range are architecture sets.
* Sets in the 30000 range are usually small promotional polybags

In addition, there are 7-digits numbers floating around which are probably some other form of internal numbers. For specific things without a set number, that's usually the only thing you'll find.

---

For parts, you have to distinguish design ID (identifying a specific mold, regardless of color) and element ID (identifies a unique design/color combination).

I don't know how design IDs were or are attributed, but it seems there is now some sequential logic behind it. Note that changes in design which don't affect the functionality (hollow bars at the bottom of 1x bricks, for example) don't usually lead to a new design number (while peeron will append an "a", "b", ... to indicate the version, LEGO doesn't do that internally).

Element IDs used to be a juxtaposition of design ID and color ID, so a Black (26) 2x4 brick (3001) would be simply 300126. These numbers are still around for parts which existed when that scheme was used. 300126 is still the element ID of a black 2x4 brick.

However, at some point (not sure when), they changed this to use a 7-digit number for the element ID, which doesn't have a relation to the design ID or color any longer. These seem to be sequentially attributed, and it could be that they share the same sequence as internal set numbers (but that's just a guess, really). There are also numbers for individual instruction booklets, which ROSCO used to scan for directly on the LEGO site.

---

As for where to find these, that's more difficult. You'll notice I link a lot to BrickSet, that's because I feel they do a fantastic job of cataloguing sets. Peeron has a good database too, but it's usually slower.

For parts, you'll need to go to Peeron, or BrickLink, but they sometimes differ in their numbering when the official number of a part isn't known. Note that they usually use design IDs and not element IDs, although there is some work in progress regarding that.

Of course, while internal LEGO aren't exactly public, you can find design IDs embossed in elements, and element IDs in the back of all instruction leaflets. Also, the online pick-a-brick and the customer service "replacement part" function let you browse recent sets and see what the design and element IDs are for given elements.

---
Tags: piece-information, set-numbering
---


# Question
Title: How should I model a Heroica scale castle bedroom?
My son has requested that we add a bedroom to our Heroica castle. I'm looking for some advice on the creation of the bed area.

The Microfig characters are 1x1x2, and the rooms are generally designed to sit on a 6x6 or 8x8 plate, and will have path elements (Tile 2x2 with 1 stud \[Part:87580\]) on it for the characters and treasure to be placed.

# Answer
> 10 votes
Here is my attempt on a 6x6 plate. I built only one wall for the image clarity, but maybe you'd prefer one opposite wall as well.

If you don't have the tile with the pillow, replace it with a 1 x 2 slope or something.

Construction details if it's not clear enough:

# Answer
> 5 votes
I went with the following set up - note that as the microfig is two bricks high, that means it's actually three studs long:

Castle Bedroom with bedside candle

Castle Bedroom with bedside candle (LDraw)

---
Tags: building, lego-games, micro-scale, heroica
---


# Question
Title: What are the practical bounds of a minifigure?
I want to make some minifigure-scale vehicles and devices, but I am wondering what the smallest possible minifigure enclosure might be.

I know minifigures are not perfectly square. Their arms and heads keep them from fitting in a standard 4x1x5 shaped hole while standing upright (not that I would imagine that looking very good in a model). When in recline with the back of their legs connected to studs, they cannot lie totally flat and must lie at a certain angle.

**What I would like to know is the practical bounds of a minifigure with NO equipment(hats, parkas, backpacks, ect.):**

1. In a fully upright position
2. In a fully seated position.
3. In recline.

It would also be a bonus if anyone would also give the bounds for a minifigure in these positions but with the maximum amount of equipment.

# Answer
# Standing

The smallest area you can enclose a standing minifig in is just about 4x4x4 2/3 with the roof on:

To reach this limit, you need to use the panels and windows to make room for the arms and more importantly the head, which is larger than a 1x1 brick.

# Seated

To enclose a seated minifig in the smallest space, you will need to ensure that you've tilted the body completely forward (i.e. over 90°), and again use panels to enclose the arms to achieve a 4x4x4 box:

Note that I've had to use two plates to lift the roof above the stud on the head - you can cheat a bit and lower it one plate if you use a roof with a hole in the correct place - in the photos I'm using a 3x4 tile with 4 studs that comes with the collectable Minifigures, and the head stud fits into one of the cylinders underneath, but the edge of the 2x3 plate won't fit.

# Reclined

For a reclined minifig, I used a Slope brick, 33° 3x2 to provide some support, and the smallest space I could fit that into was 4x7x2 1/3, however over the legs it's only 1 1/3 (I don't have all the parts to hand to photo this one I'm afraid, but I have proved the concept with some bricks):

# With Accessories

Picking the Wizards Hat and Air Tanks, I was able to enclose the minifig within a 5x4x5 2/3 (one deeper and one one higher than the standing minifig):

Again the minifig is angled to fit in this space so that the rim is horizontal, and once again there's judicious use of panels: 1x2x3, 1x2x1 and 1x1x1 Corners.
> 20 votes

# Answer
A minifigure with legs, torso, and head would be five bricks tall standing or four bricks sitting down. It's also one stud deep and two studs wide (four studs including arms)

With the arms and hands extended parallel to the thighs, the arms take roughly two and half studs worth of space from the joint of the arm. The image below show's a diagram of a minifigure sitting down on it's side.

If you were to adjust both arms forward like a boxer in a defensive stance (albeit sitting down) the minifigure's arms will take the same amount of room in a different possition.
> 8 votes

---
Tags: piece-information, minifigures, size
---


# Question
Title: NXT screen either flickering or blank, what do I do?
The screen on my LEGO MINDSTORMS NXT brick has just stopped working. It is either flickering, or blank. I have tried turning it on and off, installed fresh batteries, and I can even hear the selection sounds. Additionally, it responds regularly when I connect it to my computer. I've had my NXT for three-and-a-half years, so it's not new. Is there an easy/feasible way to fix it, or a cheap way to get it replaced?

# Answer
> 15 votes
Here are the two easiest options:

1. **Replace it.** Contact LEGO, and tell them of your problem. I've hear many success stories from people who did this, and LEGO replacing it for free. For one person, it took a week to arrive, but for another, three days. Note that if you want to keep your old NXT, you'll have to have the receipt. If you don't have the receipt, then you'll have to send them your deffective NXT. Also, if you did not buy your NXT directly from LEGO, (i.e. Ebay) they will not replace it for free, but rather ask that you pay them to repair it.
2. **Repair it.** If you have a soldering kit, then get it out, and follow the instructions in this video. It worked for me the first try.

---
Tags: mindstorms, nxt, repair
---


# Question
Title: What are LDUs and how do they relate to LEGO bricks?
What are LDUs? I see technical people talking about plans and designs in terms of LDUs. I understand it's a measurement unit.

What does it mean and how do LEGO bricks relate to them? Why are they needed?

# Answer
> 23 votes
LDU stands for LDraw Unit \- the basic unit of measurement in LDraw, the open standard for LEGO CAD programs, and map to the "Fine" grid setting in applications such as MLCad.

Common measurements include:

```
1 brick width/depth = 20 LDU
1 brick height      = 24 LDU
1 plate height      =  8 LDU
1 stud diameter     = 12 LDU
1 stud height       =  4 LDU

```

A 1x1 Brick as 3 Plates in LDUs (via LDraw)

The typical LU (LEGO Unit) measurements are coarser at:

```
Brick height = 6
Plate height = 2
Stud pitch   = 5

```

Based on the physical dimensions of a LEGO brick, this means that `1LDU == 0.4mm`, based on a stud height (1LU) of 1.6mm.

---
Tags: terminology, size, ldraw
---


# Question
Title: Is there a good way to build a dome on the top of a building?
How can I build a dome on top of a building, similar to a state capital or something similar?

The building has a base of 16x24 studs.

# Answer
> 9 votes
As a dome is typically a hemisphere, this topic about building spheres might be very useful for you. There's also an automatic tool to construct spheres that you could use to get an ldraw-plan.

# Answer
> 9 votes
Like oezi said you can build a dome out of cascading bricks, which is perfect for most scales of building. For smaller scale building where you'd want a less jagged approach you may want to use a combination of 1/4 dome pieces. A complete dome will take up an area of 6x6 studs wide.

This technique is common in the Prince of Persia sets.

---

For a true miniland scale building you may want to have a closer look at the model in Legoland Florida.

---
Tags: building
---


# Question
Title: How can I create a visually appealing Castle wall from one colour?
I have a bag of hundreds of classic light grey 2x4 bricks, and 2x1 bricks.

How can I use these to make some interesting castle walls?

# Answer
> 16 votes
Considering the very limited choice of bricks, I don't think you have much options.

The first is the obvious stacking of 1x2 bricks, which the added bonus that it can bend (slighly).

The second is the obvious stacking of 2x4 bricks, which is equally boring.

What I would suggest is to build windows in it, which you can easily achieve by mixing the two bricks. My LDraw PC is dead, so I'll need to explain this otherwise. Let's say that the wall depth is 2L, so basically from the front you'll see either bricks of 1 or 4. Let's represent these by "1" and "4444". What you can do is as follows:

```
  1444414444144441444414444144441444414444144441444414444
4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444
4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444
 1444414444144441444414444144441444414444144441444414444
4444144441444414444144441444414444144441444414444144441
  1444414444144441444414444144441444414444144441444414444

```

Notice that there is a window every 5 studs, which is exactly the same as you would have if you were using the castle wall panels.

For the top, you can have a layer of 2x4 bricks in the other direction, so that they go one stud further in front and in back. End with a parapet build of 1x2 bricks.

---
Tags: building, castle
---


# Question
Title: What causes these 'bite marks' that appear consistently on new bricks?
I purchased a set (second hand) which has the following defects on the 75°-sloped, inverted 2x1x3 blocks:

I assumed they were teeth-marks and asked the seller for replacements, and he found and ordered some online. But when they arrived, they all had the same defect. Is this common on these pieces? Is it just a manufacturing quirk, or actual damage?

# Answer
> 19 votes
As said, this is the point where the injection happens, usually known as a gate.

Sometimes, LEGO tries to have in a non-visible place, but the process of moulding is extremely complicated and forces specific requirements on the gate placement which mean it's sometimes impossible to hide it. The basic rule of thumb is that the gate is usually near the center of the part (in terms of quantity of plastic) so that the molten plastic reaches all ends of the element at the same time. Sometime a part even requires two gates.

In the case of your slope, it's probably annoying, but sometimes it's worse. In this glass panel for example, the gate is right in the middle. It wasn't really a problem in the beginning, since that glass panel was used in combination with a three panes window frame and the gate was hidden behind one of the bars of the frame.

Then they released Cafe Corner with full window frames and the gates were in plain sight. In the middle of windows. Now that's what I call ugly.

# Answer
> 16 votes
These aren't defects, they're a scar from the moulding process, it marks where the plastic was pumped into the brick. It's more noticeable on some bricks more then others, every brick manufactured this same way should have a similar mark.

# Answer
> 13 votes
I grabbed an image off google that shows a basic molding process:

As others have mentioned, the location of the gate is where the liquid plastic flows through into the cavity, and this is the mark that you are seeing. Some times these markings can be polished or sanded away, but for Lego, that would probably effect the texture of the part, so they can't 100% hide it.

As Joubarc mentioned, the molten plastic needs to fill the cavity before it starts to cool and solidify, so the gate is chosen based on where the cavity can be filled the fastest and evenly. Evenly, because you usually don't want part of the piece to solidify before it fills the cavity, otherwise you could have unfilled parts or warped pieces from cooling in different spots at different rates.

---
Tags: manufacturing, piece-information
---


# Question
Title: Why does the Erling brick have a ridge below its outward facing stud?
Why does the Erling brick (#4070) have a ridge below its outward facing stud?

Whereas the more versatile and less common #87087 does not? The #87087 piece also has a better use in SNOT usage, as it can accomadate larger bricks.

# Answer
> 22 votes
The ridge is there to make the base the standard 5LUs wide (see also "What is an Erling Brick"), enabling it to accept the standard stud.

I believe the rest of the brick was thinned out so that the combined "depth" of the Erling brick and a 1x1 plate (its common usage as a headlight) was the same height as a standard brick.

From the HoMa's World of Bricks page on the Headlight Brick:

> If headlight bricks are turned over by 90° and a plate is attached to the stud then this construction is as high as a standard LEGO brick or a layer of three standard LEGO plates.

It also helps to keep the 1x1 plate straight to the bricks edge.

---
Tags: piece-information, snot
---


# Question
Title: Is 'plate between studs' SNOT supported by one of the LEGO building software?
Do any of the multiple LEGO building software supports 'plate between studs' SNOT assembly?

# Answer
To build your example in MLCad (LDraw), I needed to switch to "Grid Fine" to move the element into the right alignment:

A couple of techniques to note when doing this when you finish with the SNOT modeling:

1. Set the grid back to coarse so that subsequent pieces are back on the grid.
2. Select a non-SNOT element (in this case the 2x3 or 2x2 plate) before placing the next element - grid alignment and rotation are inherited from the last selected piece, so this gets you back to "normal".

See also Joubarc's renderings for my Heroica Graveyard question, again from LDraw by the looks of things, with the elements are added within the clips or between grills in the radiators:
> 8 votes

---
Tags: software, snot, cad
---


# Question
Title: Can I use RCX sensors and motors with the NXT brick?
I have a bunch of motors and sensors from the original Mindstorms set. It seems a shame I can't use these with the more recent NXT set. Are there any unofficial modifications that allow you to convert the cables?

# Answer
> 12 votes
LEGO used to sell Converter Cables for Mindstorms NXT at a price of £8.99 / US$9.99 for 3 cables at their online shop, they can still be bought online from stores like Bricklink.

Considering the price of each cable converter it may be worth purchasing newer sensors/motors that are more advanced. The NXT system cables are separate from sensors and motors and come in different lengths.

# Answer
> 9 votes
Yes, you can use all RCX sensors and motors with a NXT brick. Don't forget about lamps, too.

The connections are different though, so as Ambo100 says, you will need converter cables. However, if you don't want to pay the full price for them, you can also make some yourself which isn't really that difficult.

The other thing you need to consider is how to use them with your programming environment; for the LEGO-provided NXT-G there is a special library of blocks which you can add. You can find it on the LEGO Education downloads site. The description of this library is as follows:

> **Description**
> The Legacy Sensor Block Library is available for users who have purchased the LEGO MINDSTORMS NXT Software Version 2.0. The library adds support to RCX actions and sensors to the NXT Software. It includes blocks for the RCX motor, lamp, touch sensor, light sensor, rotation sensor and temperature sensor. The blocks are available in English, French, German, Japanese, and Dutch.

On a related note, if you want to use Power Functions motors and lights, you can do so by using the two converter cables (NXT-9V + 9V-PF). There is currently no NXT-PF conversion cable, but you could make one as easily as you would make a NXT-9V cable. There is also a third-party infrared link "sensor" which allows an NXT brick to control PF elements via the normal infrared receiver.

---
Tags: mindstorms, nxt, compatibility, rcx
---


# Question
Title: How can I make a brick-built wheelbarrow?
I'd like to make a brick-built wheelbarrow to fit on a construction site that can be held by minifigures hands. I've seen prefabricated Duplo/Fabuland wheelbarrows as well as a new wheelbarrow in a 2012 CITY set which doesn't really appeal to me.

I don't mind using SNOT techniques and Technic elements. I've already tried making one out of Technic L shaped lift arms.

# Answer
> 14 votes
Brickshelf returns two interesting designs:

There's also a YouTube video showing yet another design which is quite simple yet elegant (although I would have put the 1x2 plate with handles under it, not on the side, but that's my own opinion.

---
Tags: building, city
---


# Question
Title: How can I build Victorian Style windows?
How can I build Lego Victorian style windows, like those on the White House or Capital Building?

This is one style I have done, which, as far as I know, was an original idea by me:

# Answer
This Flickr user's model evokes nice victorian windows without using any glass

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lgorlando/3914963760/

as does this one

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lgorlando/4099206027/

See also this amazing series on window techniques

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28192677@N06/5713290533/in/set-72157626335716516/

which includes this beaut

Also consider these stained glass designs. Stained glass is VERY victorian, although not the way you meant :)

http://www.brothers-brick.com/2010/12/04/christmas-window/
> 13 votes

---
Tags: building
---


# Question
Title: Are Samsonite gears compatible with modern Technic gears?
Do the old Samsonite gears (above) work with current Technic gears (below)

LEGO bricks tend to be backward compatible with older bricks, but since I don't own any Samsonite gears I cannot tell.

Image credits belong to Technicopedia.

# Answer
> 9 votes
The first gear wheels, or cog wheels, were designed by Knud Kristiansen around 1964 or 65; the original Danish design patent was filed on March 1, 1965.

Under licence by LEGO, Samsonite manufactured and sold these gears in the USA from 1965-1972, and in Canada from 1965-74. The gears had studs on the top and tubes on the bottom. They could be made turnable by fixing them to wheels with studs or turntables. These gears were never available in European sets.

A different type of gear, incompatible with Samsonite gears, was produced by LEGO in Europe between 1970 and 1975. Although the gears themselves are incompatible with technic gears, the axles that held them in place had the same cross-section as the axles for technic gears. This means that mechanisms can be constructed that use both types of gears.

Interestingly, the gears had a small circular spring in them to help them grip the axle. If I remember correctly, the ends of the axle had a groove that aligned with this spring, making the gears a slightly more stable fit at the ends of the axles than in the middle.

Modern Technic LEGO was then introduced in 1977.

Sources:

# Answer
> 11 votes
They are not compatible, the teeth are completely different.

Notice that the red old gear has 9 teeth and is the same size1 as a current 24-teeth, as illustrated by below:

The axle hole however is compatible, so you could have a construction using both types.

1. Actually, the distance between axles to have two of these red gears mesh is the same as the one required for two 24-teeth ones (60 ldu).

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Tags: technic, compatibility, gears
---


# Question
Title: How can I create a simple steering mechanism for a car?
Just curious about this. How can I create a simple steering mechanism for a car? Either motorized or non-motorized solutions are fine; just not overly complex.

# Answer
The most common I've seen is rack and pinion:

Essentially you have two parallel beams with one fixed to the car's chassis. The other bar moves horizontally which changes the direction of the wheels. Attach some gears and you can hook it up to a steering wheel.

The steering technique has been used in the Whirl N' Wheel Super Truck (5590) set. The instructions for the set show how an similar rack and pinion mechanism.
> 19 votes

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Tags: building, vehicle, steering
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title: How can I fix a flattened gear?

text:
# Question
Title: How can I fix a flattened gear?
I have an old small gear that somehow got flattened to an oval shape. The axle hole is too narrow to slide a bar through, although it is not completely closed shut.

How can I repair this gear?

# Answer
The material deformation you are seeing is called ‘plasticity’. It happens when a material under stress is deformed and doesn’t return to its original shape (this would be called elasticity). In many cases (and it is the case with LEGO ABS plastic), this deformation weakens the material (as mentioned by Kramii).

To fix this part you have to deform it again thus breaking it even more. Here are two things you could do:

1. Force it back into shape and put small amount of Krazy Glue in the cracked areas. Hopefully this will fill the gaps and give some strength back to the gear.
2. You could sacrifice an axle and glue (Krazy Glue) it permanently. This would strengthen the gear a lot but condemn it to only be used with that axle.

I have a bunch of those small gears, I wish I could just give you one.
> 12 votes

# Answer
One of these?

I regularly crushed these as a child.

You could try inserting something small into the hole and *gently* easing it open. I've had modest success with a small screwdriver.

Unfortunately, the gear will be weakened following a flattening. If it is badly squashed it is very likely break - either as you try to repair it or in use.

Your best bet, therefore, is to source a replacement. They're available from BrickLink for a few pence.

The other thing to mention is that in some cases, I've been able to use these gears even though they have broken in half. I just pushed both halves onto the axle and they stuck on well enough for my purposes. Even so, I'd still buy replacements where possible.
> 9 votes

# Answer
I don't think it's really possible to salvage it, as others said, you'll only weaken it more. Even if you can place it on an axle, there's a good chance it will break under stress.

But replacement should be very easy to find, and don't forget you could also contact the LEGO customer service for that. It sounds a bit overkill, but they will usually happily replace the part. It could also be that newer ones will be stronger, but I don't know that for sure. On the other hand, they'll very likely send you a dark grey one, since it's now the standard colour.
> 2 votes

# Answer
Here's what I did:

First I tried a screwdriver and awl, but couldn't get it to work.

What did work was pinching it with pliers to open the hole, and then sliding in a rod.

The piece is intact, but very flexible now. It is very deformed, but becomes uniform when attached to an axle. I'm going to leave it attached for a while to see if it evens it out more.
> 1 votes

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Tags: repair, gears
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# Question
Title: Does the basic 2 x 4 brick have a common nickname?
Some bricks, such as the Erling brick, seem to have common nicknames in the LEGO building community. As the basic 2 x 4 brick appears to be the foundation of the system, it is reasonable to suppose that it would have such a nickname.

Is this the case? If so, what is it called?

# Answer
It's called a brick.

This may sound like a weird or mocking answer, but when you think about it, it does make sense.

The 2x4 brick the most iconic brick of them all, the one which has started it all. The one for which the first patent has been issued in 1958. The book "50 Years of the LEGO brick" contains 6 of them, and the number of permutation for these 6 bricks has been the classic question to illustrate how endless LEGO construction can be (even LEGO got the answer wrong at first, by the way).

It's the one they use on the cover of collector's guides, it's the one they make bigger.

Face it, it's **the** brick.
> 10 votes

# Answer
I've seen it referred to as a "Rory" in brictionaries. I usually refer to it as just brick.
> 4 votes

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Tags: piece-information, terminology
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title: How to repair leaky pneumatics?

text:
# Question
Title: How to repair leaky pneumatics?
Some of my pneumatics parts, mostly pistons, have seals which no longer prevent the air from escaping completely. On some parts they are unreliable and on others they are not working at all.

Why do those parts become leaky, how can I minimize the risk of it happening with maintenance and/or proper storage, and is there any way to repair already leaky parts?

---

Zhaph suggested disassembling the piston and replacing the seal with an o-ring, however the seal in question was not a simple o-ring and getting a replacement is properly difficult: From the left: 1. Top piece locking everything together
2. Top rubber seal, with a bit particular shape
3. Bottom rubber seal, which is just a wide rubber ring
4. A plastic spacer between the two rubber seals

While the top piece appears to be safe to remove, the bottom rubber seal easily gets damaged when you try to force it off the piston. The amount of pressure it could retain after forcing if off a couple a times became limited.

# Answer
> 3 votes
The parts become leaky due to the seals inside the pistons deteriorating.

Typically, the seal is made with an "o-ring" - a circular rubber band (cross section as well as the shape) - if this is the case in the LEGO pistons, and then it's possible the o-rings are made with similar rubber to the LEGO rubber bands, and then they will deteriorate over time in the same way the rubber bands do.

I've not tried dismantling any of my pistons, so I couldn't say how easy they are to repair - they look like you should be able to unclip the black part and access the piston that way (there's a YouTube clip of someone doing so here, you can just see the piston head too, but I can't confirm the o-ring).

A good car spares or similar type of shop should be able to sell a selection of replacements.

From my time spent diving, there's not much you can do to stop this happening over time, other than keeping an eye on them and checking them regularly for replacement.

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Tags: repair, pneumatic
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# Question
Title: Where do the pieces numbered 4255629 go in the Death Star (set 10188)
I just finished up the Death Star set, and while it comes with the usual smattering of leftover pieces, I've got two pieces numbered 4255629 (shown below) that never got used. I've scanned the manual three times now and just can't see where I missed the pieces.

Were they just included for decorating at my leisure, or is there a specific page that shows where to use them?

The piece looks like this:

# Answer
> 13 votes
There is one going in the small blue trolley on page 4. These pages don't show parts inventories, and the part is partly hidden, so it's very easy to overlook.

The other one is an extra, as explained in comment.

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Tags: building, star-wars
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# Question
Title: Is it possible to change the battery in a 54604 light brick?
I got 4 of these in in a bulk lot of Lego, but the lamp is getting quite dim in a couple of them.

Is it possible to change the battery in a 54604 light brick?

It looks like the brick should open, but I don't want to force one apart and break it.

# Answer
> 15 votes
There's a YouTube video which explains how you can replace the battery in that light brick.

You can also find the owner's explanation on the Eurobricks forums.

Quoting from that site:

> What you'll need:
>
> * ExoForce Light brick (obviously)
> * A small screwdriver (or other item with a long, thin shaft) (my s'driver was 2mm (0.07 inches) thick)
> * A small 3V battery.
>
> 1. Put the point of the screwdriver into the hole in the brick (where you'd normally put the fiber optics cord).
>     2. Using quite some force, lever the screwdriver until the 'lid' pops up at the front.
>     3. Insert the screwdriver into one of the small gaps at the side where the 'lid' pops up, and lever the lid up again.
>     4. the lid should come right off. From here, you can shake the brick and the battery should fall out. Simply slide the new battery in and click the lid back on.

# Answer
> 7 votes
Taken from the additional notes of this bricks Bricklink catalogue entry.

> This item takes one CR927 3V Lithium battery.
>
> A very tiny flat screwdriver is needed to push the little clips to open up the assembly.

I occasionally use the minifig-scale Axe, Crowbar or Screwdriver to pry plates, tiles and other bricks. If you don't have a screwdriver of your own it might be possible to use one of these utensils to unscrew the casing depending on how tightley screwed in place your brick is.

This doesn't apply to bulk LEGO purchases, but in some cases LEGO sets will include instructions on how to replace the battery.

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Tags: piece-information, repair, electronics, battery
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title: How to get started with Mindstorms?

text:
# Question
Title: How to get started with Mindstorms?
I want to introduce my 8 year old son to Lego Mindstorms.
Where should I start? Is there a starter kit which is *the* best starting point?

# Answer
> 14 votes
The most current Mindstorms set would be the **NXT 2.0**.

The set is advertised for children aged 10+ (previously 16+). If you or your child is under 10 but has a talent for building with LEGO and a basic understanding of computers or engineering the whole process should be fairly easy to get to grips with.

The set itself is quite an investment (RRP £235/$350) yet it provides the most complete Mindstorms package. Half of the time spent playing with the set will probably involve programming via the NXT-G software which comes with the set.

> NXT-G is an intuitive, icon-based drag-and-drop programming language designed for an easy introduction to programming for new users and experienced users. By choosing program blocks that work with the motors and make the sensors react to inputs, you simply build up your program block by block, and you can create programs that range from simple to complex. (Source)

# Answer
> 9 votes
The best thing you can do to get experience with Mindstorms is to try to build some robots with the kit. You should get the normal NXT kit, as this includes the software, the electronics and some sample Mindstorms models.

Anyway, there are two aspects to Mindstorms, building and programming.

**Building:** If you have experience with Lego Technic, building should be familiar to you. However as this is often not the case with young people, you will want to get some experience building with Lego Technics by using building instructions. There are the sample models included in the kit, but you might also want to buy some Technic sets to get some further experience (and more pieces to build with).

**Programming:** The programming can be a bit more tricky. First you should make the example programs included with the software. If I remember correctly, it will let you make a program step by step. The important part is to pay attention to what you are doing and why you are doing it during this process! Do not just make the program and run it, use some time to understand how the program is working. Try to make modifications to it and see what happens! Give yourself challenges and try to solve them, "can I make it do this instead?".

---

Once you have made the models in the kits and experimented a bit with them, you can find even more Mindstorms models online. One example is nxtprograms.com. There are also books which you can read, for example The LEGO®MINDSTORMS® NXT 2.0 Discovery Book. The important part with the programming, especially when downloading programs from the web is to really take some time with trying to understand them. I will point it out again, do not just run them, as this will learn you nothing!

The best way of learning however is to experiment, try to build or program something either as a modification of another model or something completely from scratch. The reason Mindstorms is fun is because you can create something yourself with it, so the steps above should be treated as steps in order to reach this stage where you don't need instructions. So it is important to mix these two approaches in the beginning, do something from instructions and try doing something yourself.

The RCX 2.0 had a section with "advanced" models. The primary difference between the simple and advanced models were that the simple models had building instructions where the advanced models *only had the key steps* . So you had to fill in the other steps yourself, which is a great way to learn how to build, since you are forced to think about what you are doing. Try to take some of the robots from nxtprograms.com, but remove all but the most important steps and give those to your son.

# Answer
> 6 votes
I can only answer based on my past experiences with RCX 2.0.

Mindstorms comes as one great box with everything included. Back with RCX it was very simple to get started. You simply had to install the software that came in the box. The whole thing was designed to be used by kids. It was very intuitive with a nice tutorial going over every programming concepts. This was all done while programming the real hardware so it was encouraging to see the results in real time.

All the coding was done using visual elements (like building blocks) that were linked together to form the full program. Again it was very intuitive for young kids.

My son and I had a great time with RCX 2.0 and I would recommend it any time. I hope NXT is the same or even better.

# Answer
> 4 votes
As others said, the Mindstorms retail kit is the obvious starting point (begin the only kit readily available).

There is an education kit which contains mostly the same things as the retail kit, with the notable exception of the software (which is sold separately). It's certainly not really suitable for a standalone usage, and possibly difficult to acquire depending on where you live.

However, LEGO education could be a interesting route as well that your kid's school may be interested to investigate. This could mean that the kids get an introduction to robotics as a class and you'd see if your son gets a taste for it before needing to buy a kit yourself. The target age of the education kit is 8+, by the way, so don't worry too much about the 10+ range of the retail kit.

From LEGO education, there's also the WeDo kit. While not part of the Mindstorms range (it doesn't use the same hardware at all), it can also be an interesting introduction to robotics, aimed at slightly younger children. For a school, it's also a less heavy investment than Mindstorms, which can be easier to justify.

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Tags: shopping, mindstorms
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# Question
Title: What is the Mindstorms NXT Education kit?
I am considering gifting some Mindstorms NXT 2.0 to school, because I think they would get great value from it. I see that there is an "education kit", and I wondered if that's the way to go.

Does the "education" stuff have real advantages for schools?
Does it offer anything over and above the regular kit?

If anyone has any experience, I would love to hear.

# Answer
> 11 votes
There is an educational version. It is set number 9797.

The NXT 2.0 set is set 8547.

Both come with:

* 1 - NXT brick
* 3 - Motors
* 1 - Ultrasonic range sensor
* 2 - Touch sensors
* 1 - 20 cm cable
* 4 - 35 cm cable
* 2 - 50 cm cable

The NXT 2.0 has some things the education set does not:

* 1 - color sensor
* 1 - Test Mat
* Software (The education software is sold separately! from the educational set)

The education set has some things the NXT2.0 set does not:

* 1 - Light sensor
* 1 - Sound Sensor
* 1 - Rechargeable battery module
* 1 - AC adapter for rechargeable battery module
* 3 - Converter cables suitable for use with original Mindstorms accessories or 9V Technic motors and light bricks
* 2 - 9V Technic light bricks
* 1 - Durable storage system

The two sets also come with different assortments of pieces, with the educational one contained fewer total pieces, with more that would integrate with original Mindstorms or Technic kits.

The education kit is designed to used in conjunction with an existing parts collection, or with an Educational resource kit, basically bulk parts. Two such kits exist. Both come in a storage system much like the educational kit.

Set 9648 contains an assortment of traditional Technic style parts with a slight emphasis on the studless beams, but still containing many studded components.

Set 9695 is newer and has more parts, with a strong emphasis on studless design. Relatively few parts have studs.

# Answer
> 1 votes
As far as I'm aware, there's no NXT education version other than WeDo and ED-E...the Humanoid Robot Starter Pack.

I would get in contact with your schools administration to see if they already have a LEGO education program. There are 140 Lego Educations centres across the world that offer after school programs.

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Tags: mindstorms, nxt, shopping, education
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# Question
Title: Can I use a generic (non-Lego) transformer with a rechargable Power Functions battery?
I've recently ordered a LEGO® 8878 Rechargeable Battery Box:

I was wondering if I really need to get the (rather expensive) LEGO® Power Functions Transformer or if I can substitute a (cheaper) generic one?

If a generic one will do, what specification does it need? Obviously it needs the right plug and rating for my local AC mains socket, and that I need 10V DC, but what about the size / polarity of the DC plug?

# Answer
Yes, you can use another transformer, even if it's not recommended by LEGO and you do so at your own risk (which should be minimal if you pay attention to what you do).

The plug polarity is `+` in the center and `-` on the outside; it should be mentioned on the battery and the real transformer (I wish I could find the one I have to check), and the size is a standard (but small) one. (Note that there is a protection in place should you reverse the polarity, but it won't work). Usually if you get a transformer with multiple plug adapters, it will be one of them. Note that is **must** be DC, this may seems obvious but since older LEGO transformers used AC it's better to make sure that point is understood. (and of course that's also why polarity is important).

The trick is to find one which outputs 10v DC, as 9v will not be enough to trigger the charge circuitry (the threshold is 9.5v). Apparently, you can charge it at 12v without too much trouble, but it will be slightly slower.

Edit: just go read RailBricks magazine issue 7 which has an extremely detailed article on the topic on pages 46 to 55 (yes, a full 10 pages).
> 11 votes

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Tags: power-functions, electronics
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# Question
Title: How much depth does the NXT battery pack add?
The NXT rechargeable battery pack does not fit flush with the back of the NXT brick like the battery cover (used with 6xAAs) does. I don't have the battery pack (yet), so I was wondering how much depth it adds. I found a picture of the pack installed, which gives the impression that it may be a brick taller, or maybe only a stud taller. Exactly how much though?

# Answer
It adds the same thickness as a studless beam indeed, or 8mm / 20 ldu.

(This is true for the grey 9VAC battery, but I suppose it holds for the white 10VDC one as well)
> 6 votes

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Tags: nxt, battery
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# Question
Title: Where can I download the Samantha Field Control System?
Could someone please provide a download link? It seems that all traces of the program has disappeared from the internet, and I need this to get my robot moving wirelessly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

# Answer
This guy appears to have used the Samantha Field control system and has a download section.
> 3 votes

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Tags: nxt
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# Question
Title: How should I model a Heroica Banquet hall?
My son had a great idea for his Heroica game: Convert one of the desks from the Fortraan set into a table with food, and then your Hero could stop there and eat to regain health.

I pointed out that the kitchen already had a table with meat on it (the chicken leg), but we decided that a banquet hall with a long table would be better.

I'm therefore looking for some advice on modelling something similar to the Hogwarts feast but at a Heroica Microfig scale rather than Minifig.

# Answer
> 7 votes
I fear I have delusions of grandeur on this one, since this is my starting point:

One table partially built to show the fences underneath. You can also add a third table in the centre, but I felt it would be weird to have only one bank for two tables.

It's too big anyway, isn't it?

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Tags: building, heroica
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# Question
Title: Did LEGO recently change Millennium Falcon with a smaller kit?
I have been interested in a Millennium Falcon kit but was holding back because of the price.(It was about €500) This was about two years ago.

Recently I saw another, cheaper Falcon for about €150, but I think this is a different, smaller kit, and unfortunately the only available Falcon.

Did LEGO really swap the Falcon kit for a smaller, cheaper version?

# Answer
> 28 votes
The Millennium Falcon has been so popular there appears there are six known sets, and seven versions. Four of which share the exact same product name.

Millennium Falcon, 2000 (7190) 600+ pieces

Millennium Falcon, 2003 (4488) Microscale version with only 87 pieces.

Millennium Falcon, 2004 (4504) 900+ pieces (New minifigures with the flesh skin colour).

Ultimate Collector's Millennium Falcon, 2007 (10179) 5000+ pieces

Midi-scale Millennium Falcon, 2009 (7778) 2nd microscale MF with 4x more parts then the 2003 model.

Millennium Falcon, 2011 (7965) 1200+ pieces

Millennium Falcon, Advent Calendar Day 21, 2011 (7958) 13 pieces

There also appears to be some Minifig variation, R2D2 and Darth Vader only appear once on the 2000 and 2011 sets respectively.

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Tags: star-wars, sets
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title: Firmly connect bricks in a triangle

text:
# Question
Title: Firmly connect bricks in a triangle
I need to connect two bricks onto a plate such that the plate is facing up, and the two bricks are facing out from above it at an angle (say 30 degrees) but are connected firmly, at opposite ends with their studs facing out.

Ideally this would fit in around a 2 x 4 brick size, and not be too fragile.

The top image shows the two plates (assume 2x2) facing out at an angle from the 4 by 4 plate below.

The bottom image is the same from above. What I'd like to figure out is what to put in between. Assume that there will be stuff attached to the 2x2 plates, enough that the standard 2x1 hinge will probably just flop.

# Answer
> 12 votes
How firm does it need to be? Wouldn't something like this be enough?

If not, you can try to lock the parts into place with "cheese" slopes, but it's not as neat:

# Answer
> 4 votes
I'm not quite sure what you mean, but could you use hinges?

Like these?

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Tags: building, snot, angles
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title: Ninjago lightning and fire dragons

text:
# Question
Title: Ninjago lightning and fire dragons
I am searching (to buy) the lighting dragon and the fire dragon from the Ninjago series. I am not interested in other parts of those sets, I'm just searching for the dragons themselves.

I have searched Bricklink and Ebay to check if there are individual dragons sold, but I could not find them.

Does anyone have any hint where I can buy those dragons?

# Answer
> 8 votes
I can think of several possibilities:

1. Just be patient. They'll probably come up on bricklink or ebay eventually.
2. Buy the complete sets and sell off the parts / assemblies that don't interest you.
3. Buy the sets with someone else and split them for the parts / models that interest each of you.
4. Get the instructions, and buy the parts to make the dragons individually.
5. Create your own dragons from the any parts you already have or can get easily.

It depends on how much you want the dragons. If you really *need* them, I suggest (2) might be your best bet.

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Tags: sets, shopping, ninjago
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title: My Own Train vs. other 9v trains

text:
# Question
Title: My Own Train vs. other 9v trains
Does `My Own Train` series have any pros and cons (or pitfalls) against other 9v trains?

Seems that is a rich series but less popular comparing to, for example, Santa Fe or regular City sets. Why?

# Answer
> 5 votes
The "My Own Train" series only lasted from 2001 - 2004, so it had a relatively short life span. For the most part, they were very nice sets with rich details.

It most likely didn't resonate with collectors since the trains were available in various different colors, with or without a tender — this made it prohibitively expensive to *own* the collection since the price of the blue train was the same as the green train, and yet the only difference between sets were a few bricks that were switched from blue to green. I, myself, bought a small and large train with tenders and the wagons, but I didn't bother with all of the other colors.

The *other* minus for the "My Own Train" series was that it didn't include any mini-figs, so it made it felt geared toward adults and yet, they weren't any more challenging in building than normal 9v trains.

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Tags: trains, 9v
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# Question
Title: What parts are really required to motorize 10219 Maersk Train?
The Official site detailed page states that:

> Motorize your Maersk train by adding LEGO Power Functions #8878 Rechargeable Battery Box, #8887 Transformer 10V DC, #8884 IR Receiver, #8879 IR Speed Remote Control and #88002 Train Motor!

So:

```
8878
8887
8884
8879
88002

```

Is it true that I need all of them (costs ~$150) to motorize the train, or can I omit some?

# Answer
> 8 votes
The strict minimum you need for PF motorization is:

Now, as oezi says, it's a bit senseless to have a train which you can't control. Well, you **can** control it, but it's limited to switching it on and off (if you can catch it). Yet, it's a start.

Now, as far as limited control goes, don't neglect the polarity switch! If you place it intelligently, it will be easier to stop your train. Or you could even mimic the old 4,5v system and have your train switch direction automatically at both ends of a track. Just a thought.

Of course, for more serious control, yes, you'll need:

Note that all these elements (tracks, motor, battery box, IR receiver and remote) are also present in these trains:

So it may be worth to do the math and see if you're not better off just buying one of these. Sets are usually cheaper than standalone elements, and considering the extra parts you'll get, it may be a wiser investment. Not to mention that they may be easier to find in regular shops, which means maybe Christmas discounts and the like. And the design of these trains is quite good too.

Of course, batteries are going to be a problem, so if you don't want to sink too much money in them you'd better use rechargeable batteries as fast as possible, or yes, switch to:

As you can see, it can be a costly investment in the long run, but nothing forces you to buy it all in one step, especially the rechargeable battery and charger which are far from cheap.

# Answer
> 5 votes
The transformer can be omitted, if you find a suitable, cheaper one. Take a look at this question for more information about the exact requirements.

I don't think the other parts can be omitted, as...

* A motor clearly is required to motorize something (#88002)
* A motor won't work without a battery (#8878)
* Something motorized that can't be controlled is senseless (#8879 & #8884)

In addition, you could try to buy these 4 parts on Bricklink, which is a bit cheaper, so you end at ~$105 (+ ~$10 for a third party transformer) - this should save you $35 (~25%).

# Answer
> 3 votes
You don't need the rechargeable battery box and that's the most expensive part. Get the AAA battery box and use your own rechargeable batteries.

- $13 88000 AAA Battery box
- $14 88002 Train Motor
- $13 8879 IR Speed Remote
- $15 8884 IR Receiver

That's about $55. Not cheap but not over the top. You'll also need tracks but even on a set you're going to need to spring for more tracks if you want it to be awesome.

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Tags: power-functions, trains, set-modification
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# Question
Title: What is the difference between Shuttle Adventurer (10213) and Shuttle Expedition (10231)
Beside the age 16+ designation for the Shuttle Adventurer vs the 14+ age designation on the Shuttle Expedition and some different photography they look identical except they don't sell the Shuttle Adventurer anymore on shop.lego.com. Is there any practical difference?

# Answer
> 17 votes
The LEGO Direct team's answer to this question is on brickset:

> Since its release in 2010, 10213 Shuttle Adventure has proven to be very popular! Although the model was designed for a 16+ target audience, our consumer call center has brought to our intention that many younger children have been building and playing with the model. As a result, the Direct team has decided to look at the model once more to see what changes could be made in order to provide a better build and play experience for a slightly younger target audience. 10231 Shuttle Expedition may look similar to Shuttle Adventure in many ways, however its build is very different and offers several advantages.
>
> * The fuel tank has been reinforced with supports to strengthen the assembly
> * The landing gear is strengthened to function better across many different floor types
> * The Cargo doors can now be more rigorously opened and closed
> * The entire build has been reworked to limit opportunities for misplacing elements
> * Astronauts now have wigs in addition to their helmets (1 male, 1 female). Face prints are also different.
> * The new set now has 1,230 elements
> * New Satellite can be securely positioned on the new mechanical arm 10231 Shuttle

# Answer
> 4 votes
Acording to Bricklink:

> This set contains 26 more pieces than the original release to correct stability issues.

Have a look at the inventory here.

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Tags: sets
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# Question
Title: Does the Power Functions IR Remote Control 8885 make a good remote for a car?
I have the Power Functions IR Speed Remote Control 8879 and it's great for, well, the train it came with and maybe other applications where you don't need precise control. 8885 looks like it would work for a car but does it speed up the motor the further you press up the joystick? Is the joystick spring loaded in that it returns to "stop" when you let go or it it more like the helicopter remotes of late where you press the joystick up and it keeps that current speed? Do the joysticks move left to right and up and down?

# Answer
The two sticks on that remote are pure on/off switches (well, forward/off/backward) and come back in their central position if not maintained pushed, and don't move laterally either.

There are two classic ways to control a car with them:

Use each switch to control a motor and wheel (or set of wheels) - so you have to push both levers to advance, and only one to turn. That's how the first PF Motorized Bulldozer is built and it works great for that kind of model.

For a more realistic car, however, you'll need to use one motor to control the forward/backward movement of the car (that's the easy part), and the other for the direction. That's slightly less easy, but you can usually achieve it with some kind of spring-loaded mechanism that puts the direction to straight forward when you're not pushing the lever. Some people have used that part to do it, but I've never tried it myself:

Edit: as I said, using the 8879 remote by itself to control a vehicle directly may be difficult, but I forgot it's a Technic part by itself, which means you can build something else on top of it. See Sariel's modification for a good example with which you can easily control a one-motor-per-wheel model.
> 8 votes

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Tags: power-functions, remote-control
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# Question
Title: What IR Codes are the Power Function remotes sending to the receiver?
The PF IR Speed Remote Control (the train one) is "7 speeds" but as I turn the dial to make it go faster it's hard to tell what speed it's at. I wonder if I could setup my programmable remote so that pressing 1 puts the train at speed one, 2 at two and so on. Is there a reference for this somewhere?

# Answer
> 8 votes
As with most things related to Power Function,s you can find this information on Philo's page on Power Functions.

If you scroll down a little, you'll find a link to "LEGO Power Functions RC" which is a document straight from LEGO outlining the PF RC protocol. The protocol does include commands to set an absolute speed.

Now, whether you can make sense of it is another story altogether. That's what HiTechnic used to create the NXT IRLink Sensor, and with it connected to a NXT you can indeed send the commands to set the speed to a defined level instead of increasing/decreasing.

Note that due to power limitations in the NXT, IRLink has a short transmission range.

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Tags: power-functions, remote-control
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title: How do I make my own LEGO stickers?

text:
# Question
Title: How do I make my own LEGO stickers?
I'd like to make my own stickers like the ones produced for LEGO sets using a design I've made in Photoshop.

* What do I need to make stickers for LEGO, what kind of printer do I need?
* Will the stickers be able to come of my LEGO bricks cleanly?
* Can I also get sticker paper on a transparent sheet?

# Answer
> 5 votes
At office/stationary stores such as Office Max or Staples you can get printer friendly sticker paper. The 'AVERY STICKER PROJECT PAPER' comes in clear or white. You can shop around for different finishes. Some are more paper like and other are more like plastic.

From experience this is only good for flat surfaces. To ensure maximum adherence, I recommend to clean the surface with a soft soap. After the surface is dry, rinse it with 99% alcohol and let it air dry. this will remove any remaining oil or dust. You can then apply the sticker to the surface.

You can print you design directly to it and cut it to size using scissors or a craft knife. For complex shapes, you can use a swivel craft knife:

# Answer
> 2 votes
One important point that the previous answer omits: With the typical "water slide" decal paper, after printing your pattern, generally with an ink-jet printer to get the colors you want, you must waterproof the pattern by spraying several coats of Krylon clear enamel or equivalent and allow it to thoroughly dry before cutting out and trimming the decal and putting it in water to remove the backing paper.

Also, except in unusual applications, you will want to apply the decal to a WHITE brick, not one of the other colors. This is because of the subtractive nature of printing: white is assumed to be the starting color.

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Tags: stickers, customization
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# Question
Title: How do I make Victorian looking minifigures?
I want to do a Victorian style station to go with my steam trains. I've got some great ideas for the building and accessories, but I'm not sure about the people. How can I make Victorian-looking minifigures?

BTW: I don't want to permanently modify bricks, but would consider the use of stickers.

Ideas I already have:

Headgear:

* Top hats
* Deerstalker
* Peaked cap for railway workers

Sadly, the Lego bowlers are either blue with a flower or grey with a question mark - not really suitable.

Head:

* For males, any that have weird facial hair (there are surprisingly many) and/or round glasses

Torso:

* Smart suits. I've read that shirtsleeves were considered unseemly.

Any other ideas?

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As an example of what I have in mind, here's a railway worker I made from parts I got from PAB. Of course, I'll need passangers and other staff, too. And I'm more than happy to order individual parts from bricklink (as long as my wife agrees!).

# Answer
> 13 votes
A number of the minifigs from the Adventures theme would fit the bill in terms of round glasses and facial hair, especially the Dr Kilroy character:

They also have versions with suits, etc.

There's also a "Detective" figure in the Minifigures Series 5 with the classic Deer Stalker hat that resembles the fictional detective Sherlock Holmes.

There are also top hats available in Series 1 with the Magician and Ringmaster.

# Answer
> 7 votes
The 10199-1 Winter Village Toy Shop set contains two very good Victorian carol singer minifigures:

Other sets in this series have some quite good period clothing, here's one from the bakery (10216-1)

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Tags: minifigures
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