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All 3/8 Harken Big bullet blocks . All 5/16 New England fuzzy 3 strand dacron hallyards and mainsheet. Used old cheek blocks for 2:1 outhauls on boom and gaff. 

## Weather seal under the hatch lids 

Eight Optimist dinghy 48 liter airbags  below decks (almost 800 lb. of floatation by my calculation). I'm thinking of adding a belt pack manually inflatable PFD to the masthead with its rip cord extending down the mast face for antiturtling protection. 

¾ inch plywood floor  between the mast and the centerboard trunk below. Group 27 gell battery just aft of the mast. 

Wiring run aft to a 12 V trolling motor socket mounted in the center of the transom inspection port. Additional 25 lb. of trim ballast forward. The boat really slows down if she's allowed to bury her stern. Sail her level fore and aft. I used my old mainsheet tackle for a boom vang. Great for sail draft control, especially with the sail reefed. Also a great help broad reaching and running. 

Vang not useable  with the forward bimini up. It's easily removed with fast pins. I removed those wire bails from the sides of the mast stub (what good/purpose were they anyway?) and added 5 inch cleats port and starboard where the bails were. I cleat the halyards off there now, and can store the coiled halyards hanging from the cleats, out of the cockpit. I still use halyard turning blocks at the mast base. I just secure them to the cleats above. 

I ditched the plastic goal posts on the trailer, and replaced them with side bunk guides, which make getting the boat centered easy, even in a cross wind. I changed the 2x4 trailer bunks for 2x6's which are a foot longer in the front. One of the original 2x4's bowed, forcing its front end into the hull. I rewired the trailer with all LED lights. Most often, I launch "hubs dry,” with water only covering the lower part of the tires. Be sure to slowly ease the boat back into the water using the winch to control the descent. For recovery, it helps to pretilt the trailer. I wedge a plastic wheel chock into the gap which opens above the trailer tongue when the frame tilts. 

Positive locking seat latches  with snap hooks to lock them. Here's my replacement seat latch: 

<img src='content_image/706925.jpg'>

You can get a similar item from Hamilton Marine for about $15 each. 

On my hatch lid, I have only a thin nut, secured with blue Loc Tite. The bolt end is ground flush with the nut using a Dremel tool with a grinding disc. 

I used flat washers and nylon insert lock nuts on the other two screws. I also ground off any excess bolt flush with the nut using the Dremel tool, so I wouldn't hang my sleeve or skin on the exposed bolt while reaching in for gear. 

I used a simple bronze snap hook to secure the cam lock. I have a small lanyard tied to the snap hook, and the other end is pinned under the lower part of the latch, between the two lower screws. (Not shown in my photo) 

## Installing Swim Ladder and Motor Bracket 

## PostedBy: George Haycraft,Former owner ofPicnic Cat #29 

he green hull pix I took at the factory in order to position my bracket and ladder. The white hull is #29 with the new ladder and motor mount in place. PC#29 came with a fixed mount. I replaced it with the retractable mount. As I recall, T 

