 So Taron has made an awesome Techquickie episode which you can check out here on RSI, also known as Repetitive Strain Injury. One of the reasons he's so familiar with this topic is because he has suffered from it quite severely at times. Through this process he has found that certain gear works really well for him for one reason or another. One of those pieces of gear, a mouse to be exact, had a battery acid spill and it destroyed some of the traces on the PCB. Enter the silver conductive pen. The Cooler Master Novatouch TKL utilizes genuine Topar Hybrid Capacitive switches and is now available at a more affordable price. Click now to learn more. These pens are used to quickly, easily, and effectively repair PCB traces or make new ones entirely. You can do everything from fixing a relatively simple PCB's damaged traces like we'll be doing today, all the way to more complicated stuff like automotive rear window trace repair and prototyping of small devices. There are two main types of silver conductive pens. I really don't think these different categories have names, but I'll divide them into squeeze and push mechanism and the rollerball mechanism. The MG Chemicals pen that I have and similar pens from brands like Circuit Works, Keg Laboratories, and Circuit Medic, all fall under the squeeze and push category. I call it this because to use the pen you are instructed to squeeze the tube before actually pressing the tip onto the PCB in order to have the silver ink come out of the pen when you pressurize the bottom. The rollerball pens like the Electron Ink, get it? Anyways, they're super cool but not really intended for use on PCBs. You may be able to get them to work, but it will probably be unsuccessful. What they are intended for use on is paper or maybe even some forms of wood. They're a ton of fun to play with and may be able to do quick tests of circuit board layout design, especially if you use something like 1-2-3 design, because you can easily integrate Electron Ink modules, which will make things a breeze. Anyways, Taron and I are going to try out our luck with our MG Chemicals pen. So let's see how this goes. Shake well, press tip lightly on surface, use with adequate ventilation, squeeze pin barrel. We can open the door. Can we get a piece of paper that I can just test this on? Oh, hello. Oh, there we go. You have to push down. Yeah, so it's pressure. So if you completely close and then... Alright. I'm just going to try it right here. I think we've got that dead laptop. So you're going to want to practice more, I think, on an actual PCB. Because you might have to test... This is the one that we dropped during that commercial. That's pretty good, man. Yeah, but it's still a bit too thick. I think you wouldn't bridge the traces that way. I'm going to start over here. I might have created a bit of a bridge there. Okay, let's try to scrape that back. Oh, hey, those are perfect. You're not using an ESD safe tool, sir. Oh. Okay, I'm not going to blow on it because that would be dumb, wouldn't it? Probably, yeah. I've never worked on circuit boards this integrated. Whoa. This pin is just not very precise. You could almost do like painter's tape style. Like put down a teeny strip of electrical tape and then take it back up. It's a little thicker than I would like. Well, maybe... Ooh, look at that. That's beautiful. Okay, do we only have one left? Yeah. I kind of think that one's still going to work. Do you want to try that before doing this run? Because it doesn't look that clear. Are you doing it? So the issue that it was having, motion worked fine. The clicking of the left mouse button, however, was plagued with problems. Motion worked completely fine? Yes, completely fine. Oh, the batteries were backwards. Whoa. Oops. It's clicking every time. I think we got it, right? Yeah, seems to work. Okay, we fixed it. Voila! Hopefully. I was really unsure about that. Yeah? Like super, because it just seems so... Well, it's electrically conductive. The runs were really bad. No, they were, but they're electrically conductive. Remember the makey makey? You could just plug crap in. It doesn't even matter. So it totally works, and that's awesome. There were some troubles, but for two guys who've never done anything like that before, I think we did a pretty solid job, considering it works. I wish there was more simple rollerball style pens for PCBs, but as the obvious issues that there are with a ball rolling on a relatively low friction surface like a PCB, I'm not surprised. Either way, I'm very happy with the results, and I think it's great that we can fix some things around the office instead of just replacing them. Not only is it more affordable, but it's a more sustainable choice as well. 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Again, that's linus.ting.com, and when you sign up, you will get a $25 service credit or $25 towards a new device. Let me know what you guys think of these Tinker-inspired videos. I'd love to do more, so your feedback is greatly appreciated. Also, while you're here watching the video, dislike, like, share, subscribe, follow, comment, do all those kind of things. Comment down below or over on the forum if, again, you think we should do more of these types of videos. Over on the forum, check out the Support Us link, so you can do things like changing your Amazon affiliate link. And if you want a helpful way to do that, get the add-on, the Linus Tech Tips Notifier add-on for Firefox or Chrome, and it can do it for you, which is pretty cool. Also, become a contributor on the forum. There's a little link on how to do that in the Support Us section. It helps us out a ton, and you get a cool little badge while you're posting. 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