 Okay, so last night tried to kind of make a stencil for the nuclear logo. Didn't go very well. I used this version and then I have some adhesive backed stencil paper, but as you can see tracing things is not exactly a forte for me. Most of these were done on a table so I could barely see actually through to the actual logo. I need some form of backlight to help me, so I thought of grabbing the Ultimaker, turning it on so the white light is shining through it and putting it down on the table. But another thing that was brought up is that I should be tracing it this way. Brandon pointed out that it's a lot easier because of the grid lines and it's a lot easier because it's paper. If I'm gonna be cutting everything anyways, it doesn't really matter. So, here we go. The Master Case 5 by Cooler Master gives you the freedom to truly make your mid-tower PC case your own with a variety of modular parts and accessories. Click now to learn more. I love how of all the things that I've either never done before in this build or I'm extremely inexperienced in, creating a stencil was the biggest challenge. I'm not sure if I'm going to be able to do it in the future, but I'm sure I will. So, I'm going to be doing a lot of stuff that I've either never done before in this build or I'm extremely inexperienced in. Creating a stencil was the biggest roadblock. Alright, so that was the first one done. Honestly, it actually kind of looks okay. So, I need to create three more of those and then four more that are actually just a circle and don't have the nuclear details on the inside. I'll be with you guys in a sec. I can probably just tape the crap out of it. Okay, so I have my four nuclear three. Uh oh, where's one of them? Anyways, I'll find it. I have my four nuclear logos. Now I need to cut the shapes and things out of the nuclear logos using an X-Acto knife and a cardboard box. We're getting close. How's that? I got to cut out three more that took forever, so... Alright, so all my tape markers are on the 3D printed bomb spacer thingy. All the stencils are cut, so now it's time to take the adhesive part of my stencil off and stick it on the bomb. That doesn't look right. That's three inches up. What the f***? Oh yeah. One good thing is the adhesive doesn't seem too strong. I'm going to try to place it down and hopefully it won't be too hard to get off. Logo number two. That's with one thingy facing up. I now need to take off my placement stickers. The placement of these things, admittedly, is not perfect. Okay, so now it's time to paint the nuclear logos. So I wet the brush and I'm going to dip it in bleh bleh bleh. That's basically what I know to do, so wish me luck. Dirt dirt dirt dirt dirt dirt dirt dirt dirt dirt dirt dirt dirt dirt dirt. This is kind of supposed to look a little weathered. So you know what? If there's imperfections, maybe they were on purpose, okay? Okay, YouTube comments. We should rename this video, make it not even about Fallout 4 anymore, and just call it Luke is really bad at arts and crafts. Hopefully I can even that out a little bit on further coats, but for now we just need to let it dry. Next in line in the train of nerve wracking things that we have to do is cut the bomb because we need IO holes. We need to cut holes for power, audio, HDMI, and an HDMI coupler. Also, we don't have to cut a hole for ethernet. There was an option to just screw in an AC Wi-Fi dongle thing, so I'm going to do that and then leave it inside the case. So before I start cutting, I actually kind of need to figure out how big the things are that I need to cut holes for. So for audio pass through like this, I've just used an elastic band and I'm going to use crazy glue to glue them both together so that the hole can be for both of them. For USBs, I'm going to stick them all together like this and then glue all of these together so that I can have one big bank of USB pass throughs that I cut one hole for. Wow, these went really fast. They already like rock hard. How does that look? Okay, that was a little close with the super glue and the USBs and it drying really quickly around the elastic band, but I think we're good. So I just need to let these things dry. Okay, so we're doing the second coat of paint now. So we'll see how it goes this time. So I went outside of the stencil slightly right here. Oh my goodness, you can still see it. How do I fix that? I don't know. All right, so the next hurdle is making sure that everything on the inside doesn't fly all over the place whenever you try to move it at all. And my idea for this was terrible. So I called my dad, who's generally better at these things than I am, and he came up with a way better idea, which was using ready rod to run supports through the bomb, bolting them on the outside, and then also using ready ready rod to support the power supply in the top. So we're going to do that. But that's way too high up. How far could this motherboard go down because we could basically bring the bolt system down farther and then you got room. Like maybe even raise it up a little bit more than that. Yeah, I got my marks. So now we just have to project these straight down. There's Rod number one. These might even be too wide. They are. We'll need to just put something like we could plastic or even just like a zap strap. All right, so we've changed our minds a little bit instead of actually going through the holes on the motherboard, we are going to just suspend the motherboard from the rods using zap straps. All the ready rod holes are now done. We're going to have it poke out a little bit past the nut on the end, and we're going to chop the end of the ready rod off on this side. So both sides look the same. Yeah, dad had the idea of using some actual piece of something to make the platform instead of just zap straps. We're going to use the meshed part. So it actually breathes a little bit better. And I'm just going to drum all the crap out of it. We have made our power supply platform so it fits right into the top like so. And I'll probably hot glue that in place or whatever. And then the power supply just goes bump right on top of it. So with sound effects with yeah. Bump specifically, that's what that's the sound of the power supply makes when you put it down. OK, so the super glue and rubber brand thing rubber brand. OK, so the super glue and rubber band thing actually did seem to work. So now it's time to actually cut. So the first thing I'm going to put in is our audio. OK, so I just drilled my pilot hole. So I know on this side where I want the headphone stuff to go. So what I'm going to do now is drill a bigger hole with a slightly bigger drill bit, then just file it out. Boom. Boom. OK, this is an exciting moment. Our first bit of I.O. is coming out of the bottom of the bomb. That is our audio. So I'm going to hot glue this bad boy in and we're going to move on. The next one I'm going to cut is for the HDMI coupler. That's a little overhang with some bolt holes in it. So I'm going to just cut a circle, push it in from the outside bolt through the bolt holes and then it'll be secured that way. Brandon just pointed out that it kind of looks like a surprised face. Oh my goodness. If you're drilling a hole like this, use this kind of drill bit. Save you a lot of trouble. I just forgot. Perfect. Look how snug that is. Oh my goodness. So if I can find screws that fit and nuts that fit on those screws, I would like to bolt it in. But honestly, doesn't even need it. USB is next in the row. So I'm going to do USB now and I'll just deal with the extra wires. Dremelings pretty much going to be my best bet because it's a long rectangular space. Another like impressively close fit. I'm going to pull it in a little bit and then hot glue it and we'll be good to go. I can't get this stuff off me. Geez. I got hot glue stuck on my finger. OK, so I'm just picking the positioning for the power. About there should be OK. OK, so we have our hole of where we want it to go. OK. Boom. There is our power cable. We need to bolt that in and then we're good to go. All right, so all the I.O. is done. I didn't have the feed on while I was actually drilling these. This top one, the USB 3, works just fine. The second one in, it's going to interfere with this leg pretty quick. Then the second bottom one, kind of close if you have some large USBs. So when you're doing this again, get it away from this leg somehow is a good idea. OK, so the final coat of paint has been applied. I just have to take it off now. This is a little bit nerve wracking because it looks kind of like absolute junk right now. So hopefully it doesn't after we pull all this tape off. So there's a little bit of spill over, but that's probably my fault somehow. I'm not a very artsy person, so I'll take the blame there. All right, so most of the things we have to do are done. Now I just need to cable manage because if I don't cable manage well enough or at all, the computer components will literally just not fit. OK, so I need to make spacers. I thought, why not some cardboard? I'm going to tape them onto the card here and here. I don't know if this is going to work, but I got to give it a shot. So here we go. OK, so our custom ghetto cardboard spacers are done. They're taped on and I'm going to try to fit this guy. I actually think that's going to work. One more problem that I have is actually this guy. Judd out of metal at the end, which could touch the end of the motherboard. So I'm going to have to do something with that. OK, so I grabbed some like shelf material stuff. I don't even know what this is, but it's not conductive. I still have no idea how I'm going to actually even have this on there. But as you can probably already guess, the airflow in this system is going to be horrible. So we're going to have to address that. And we will do that by testing it first with no additional airflow measures. And then we'll try to add a few things here or there and see what we can do to improve it. Now, I know I said that we're going to be hanging the motherboard off the support bars with ZAP straps, but it like doesn't move at all. So I'm going to ZAP strap it anyways. But realistically, there's no point. All right. So moment of truth. We're going to turn it on. Oh, I'm really nervous. Oh, OK. Whoa, the computer works. OK, the computer works. Oh, I was really worried about that for so many different reasons. But all right, I need to figure out thermals real quick. So running Ida64 on the CPU within like a couple seconds, we had a CPU throttle of about 30 percent. So, yep. One thing I'm going to try to do is try to fit an industrial PPC Noctua in there. I don't know if I'm going to be able to make it fit. I might have to do a smaller fan, but this would be nice. That does seem to be helping the cooling, although I really don't think that's going to fully solve the problem. Oh, yeah, there it is. CPU throttling. Now, one thing that I'm actually going to try to do is maybe just turn off turbo. Turbo mode disabled. So what we're going to do is try to jump into our Crysis 3 skybox test. If it's able to pass that, then it's probably fine. Well, I've never had a computer red screen before. That's a first. No idea what that means, but it's not good. 11.1. I broke everything is what this one's called. OK, so last night, Linus saw us moving around on the motion sensor things and kicked us out, told us to go to bed. I came in this morning. I had missed my alarm, picked up the bomb, didn't realize that there was something over top of the legs. And two of the supports on the legs, this one and this one, actually completely broke off. So I super glued them. And then when I went to go put the bomb down immediately after breaking it, there was something holding on to the switch cable and it ripped the red wire completely out. So I stripped both ends of that, soldered that back together. This is working again. At that point, I was pretty pissed off and I was like, I just want this freaking thing to work. I re-cable managed a whole bunch of stuff and then I Dremel and cut out two pretty massive holes actually on the bottom and then grabbed some really low profile 60 millimeter fans from some stock AMD coolers that we had. And I'm going to mount those in the bottom as air intakes. So those should help quite a bit. And with in between the clips up here cut out, there should actually be airflow this time. So let's try finishing the build a second time. Hopefully I don't massively break anything else. And yeah, let's go. I have noticed that there is actually some extra room here, so I might actually try to upgrade the CPU cooler. The Silverstone AR06 is in. It was a bit of a tight fit on the back, had some problems there, but it's fine. Also, the RAM didn't fit as nicely as I'd hoped. So this second inner stick, of course, their LPX got a little bit of a unique treatment. The caps for the heat pipes on the cooler were a little bit too big and pressed against it and made it lean into the other stick. So I took a Dremel to it and kind of cut some grooves where, and this looks horrible, where the heat pipes would actually be trying to go. So now you can put it in. It actually fits just fine. So once Linus sees that, I might not have a job. So hopefully you guys like this video a lot. The 300 watts is no longer needed. This thing served me well for the time I had it. But the 450 watt has finally showed up. Got it, got it, got it, which is good because last night when we were testing, we did actually run into some power issues. So very happy to see that. Got a new cooler on the motherboard. Time to start trying to put things back together. It's unlikely that it will melt. A lot of computers are plastic, too. Hot damn. All right. So inside you can see we've got some space in front of the CPU for it to breathe. We've got our two sticks of RAM like we were talking about this Y cable for the fans goes to the two fans that are in the bottom. This windy SATA cable kind of tries to keep itself out of the way and then plugs into the SSD, which is back here. We have our anti shock mat thing, which is going to try to keep the back of the motherboard protected from things shorting it out. We have our nano, which is held away from the motherboard a little bit by our custom cardboard spacers and our blue painters tape. Our Wi-Fi card is actually keeping the SSD away from the back of the graphics card because the SSD is closed in metal and I don't want it to short the graphics card. And altogether, it fits all under the top crossbar, which is the ready ready rod or whatever, so that we can put the plate on top of there. We can put our new 450 watt power supply on top of that, plug it into here, plug in the graphics card, plug in the motherboard, 24 pin and 8 pin and then plug in the SSD. And then we're going to see if it runs. OK, so there's one thing left that could ruin everything. The top of the bomb gets this ring on it and then this cap goes on top of that ring, but on the inside. Part of the idea that we have for air to be able to escape at the top is for these sections between the clips to be cut out. If I miss, I could take out one of the clips and then it might not actually go in here and then there's just going to be a hole in the top of our bomb, which will look super dumb. One random note, I haven't shaved since we started this because I've literally been working on this or sleeping. I showered. I haven't shaved. All right, so the top is on. It's clipped in there. We left a little bit extra on each side so I could click it in and then we taped it on so that it shouldn't rotate and then fall in so that those air gaps should actually stay there. Now, I'm a little bit worried because there's some weight to it and those legs are maybe not as strong as they used to be in their young days. So it's kind of go time. I want to make sure this thing works. Okay, so the legs go in. It's plug-in time. Okay, so fans installed on the bottom, new CPU cooler. The CPU was thermal throttling within seconds before. Now we've been running Ida64 for a little bit. We're floating between 60, 70 degrees depending on what core you're counting. I think we might have done it. Tunnel Bear, the easy to use privacy app for mobile and desktop internet browsing. You can use Tunnel Bear on iOS, Android, Mac, PC, or even a direct Chrome extension that lets you tunnel or browse the internet as if you're in up to 14 different countries with ease. This allows you to access things like geo-blocked websites, which can be very frustrating to deal with. It's super easy to install and use and if you encounter any issues, have friendly support bears standing by 24 hours a day to help. They currently serve over 5 million users and you can join them by becoming a free user today with 500 megabytes of data usage allowed every month. But if that's not enough for you, they have unlimited plans starting at $699 or better yet, head over to tunnelbear.com slash LTT and you can save 10%. Alright, that is it. It works. The computer runs. I've already ran Crysis 3 on it. Everything's fine. It's not thermal throttling. It's got some good stuff going on. It's been, it's been a while. I've been working on this thing since Monday at 930 a.m. till about midnight every single day. And now we're finally here. It's seven something on a Thursday. I don't even know what happened to this week. Hopefully you guys liked the video. Give it a like if you did. Honestly, that will help because if everyone appreciates this, I can maybe do this for other game launches or say movie launches like Star Wars in December. Anyways, that's about it. Like I said, like the video if you liked it, dislike it if you didn't, but like, come on, man. Damn, like rude and stuff. Anyways, these are Amazon affiliate code to buy stuff from there. Check out a t-shirt, link in the description down below. Become a contributor on the forum and watch this video if you haven't seen it yet, which is part one of the build. I'm out.