 We've done a lot of liquid cooling over the years, ranging from super jank DIY to AIOs to all the way up to sub-zero chiller units. But there are still some things that we've never messed with. Until now, going full hard mode with copper rather than plastic tubing. It's a lot of work, and the learning curve looks a little something like this, but boy oh boy, is the end result ever shiny. Corsair's Vengeance RGB Pro Series overclocked memory utilizes dynamic multi-zone RGB lighting to light up your rig. Check it out at the link below. So the first question is, why? Why would we do something like this? I mean, it's good to try new things, but aside from that, is there any reason to use metal tubing? Why would we do something like this? I mean, it's good to try new things, but aside from that, is there any reason to use metal tubing, copper or otherwise? Truthfully, other than looks, no. So if you're only worried about cooling performance, it's probably best to stay with inexpensive soft plastic tubing, because as I demonstrated during Scrapyard Wars 2, even a massive coil of copper tubing doesn't dissipate much heat. So the relatively small runs in your case won't make a measurable difference. So then with that out of the way, let's get started. The case dictates a lot of the other components that you might choose for a build like this. So that came first. We chose the refreshed Li-Li PCO 11, dubbed the Dynamic, for its all white interior, tempered glass side and front panels, and its spacious trunk, which makes it perfect for hiding tubing and cables. Next up is the actual gaming bits. For once here, we're actually gonna take a step back from insanity and just build a respectable, color coordinated, high-end gaming machine. That is without an Extreme Edition CPU and Titan graphics card. So we opted for Intel's 8700K, one of the best processors for gaming, made it to an ASUS Z370A Prime, the whitest board in their lineup for this chip. RAM then was an easy pick, as the best looking white RAM on the market, IMO, is Corsair's Vengeance RGB in white. Of course, for our graphics card, we would have loved to use the latest GTX, RTX, excuse me, RTX 2080 Ti, but water blocks weren't quite available yet when we started this build, so we went with the next best thing, a 1080 Ti, which is still a very powerful card and significantly more affordable, which, man, if you'd told me a year ago, I'd be calling a 1080 Ti more affordable. Anywho, for storage, we opted for a 512 gig Samsung 960 Pro as our boot drive, with a couple of Iron Wolf Pros in the PCO 11's rear butt flap for storage, which brings us to water cooling, where things get a little more unusual. Now, one of the manufacturers that we featured in our cheap AliExpress water cooling video, Barrow, actually makes some really cool case-specific water distribution slash reservoir blocks, and they happened to have one for the PCO 11, so that one was an easy buy. Then for the rest of the system, we requisitioned a bunch of goodies from our friends over at EK, going for mostly their standard affair stuff, including their previous flagship Supremacy EVO CPU block, a full-cover 1080 Ti GPU block, a couple of their slim 360 millimeter radiators, and then a metric boatload of fittings. Now, sadly, while we were able to use their straight 16 millimeter hardline fittings, these are the same ones that you'd need for plastic tubing, by the way, they still don't have 90 degree fittings, so we needed to paint our own. With everything dry fitted, the next step was sanding the fittings and radiators with a sanding block for optimal paint adhesion. Oh, and before you guys head to the comments below, yes, we masked off the radiator fins. An extra layer of paint isn't gonna destroy your rad, but it's not ideal for thermals either. Now let's get back to the star of the show, the copper tubing. There are actually way more different types of copper tubing and pipe than I expected, be it coiled, straight, soft, hard, or whatever combination of the four of them. But you actually don't need to worry about any of that because we already went out and spent the money to figure out which one's best so that you don't have to. Initially, we thought that coiled tubing would be our best bet. This kind of copper is pre-annealed, which means that in the factory, the pipe was heated up red hot, then cooled to soften the metal. Now for materials like steel, if you quench the metal after heating, it actually hardens it, making it great for use in tools, for example. But with copper, heating, then immediately cooling it actually softens it, making it perfect for bending. Or so we thought. In practice, even with a fancy patented straightening tool like this one from Eastwood, the tube never ends up all that straight. And it's got little bumps and blemishes all over it. So coiled tubing wouldn't work for the clean aesthetic that we wanted. A better choice ended up being straight, hard, half inch diameter copper pipe, which is called half inch, but it actually has a five eighths inch outer diameter. One really important note here though, is that you'll want to use the slightly more expensive type K pipe. Its walls are a little bit thicker, which makes it easier and cleaner to bend. From here, the process is actually pretty similar to regular hard line tubing. Each run starts with roughly estimating the length of the run with a little bit of extra on each end, and cutting the pipe with our pipe cutter. The one that you're looking at now, by the way, will run from our CPU block to the Barrow Distribution block. Then, because we do still need to anneal the copper before we can bend it, our tube needs to be heated up for a minute or two. We used a matte gas torch. Now, it's really important here for the part that you intend to bend to get visibly hot. And it should be noted that it actually doesn't have to all be that same hot color at the same time. So once you see it starting to get red, you can begin to work your way around. Once you're done, you can quench the pipe in a bucket of water, and then freak out a little over the gross discoloration that you'll be spending the next few hours dealing with with a piece of sandpaper and some polish. Now, we didn't do it this way. Hindsight is 20-20, as they say, but we'd recommend that you do the bulk of your sanding before you bend the pipes, because it is a lot easier to sand and polish a straight pipe than a bent one, as they say. Anywho, now it's bending time. Since these are just single 90 degree bends, thanks to our Fancy Pants Distribution block, we don't really need to mark out our bend, and we can just kind of go for it. I'd recommend for a bender that you get something with a fairly large radius, like this one that we got on eBay for 50 bucks. Smaller radius benders can give you a tighter bend, obviously, but they can also cause some pretty severe crushing, creating flat spots on your bend that will be very noticeable, especially if you go for a smooth, polished look on your pipes. We ended up initially filling our pipes with sand to help them retain their shape during the bend, but it turned out later that this wasn't necessary for us, though if you're having issues, it might be worth a try. The process was honestly pretty rinse and repeat from here, so I guess let's watch a fancy time lapse then of Jake bending and fitting the pipes. ["Fancy Pants Distribution Block"] One more pro tip here, by the way. If you already sanded your pipes and you wanna keep them as scratch-free as possible, we'd recommend putting some grease on the mating surfaces of the bender. At this point, all the painted parts were dry and we could get into installation of the finished parts. First was our CPU block with a white painted hold-down plate and RGB shroud. Then we installed our GPU backplate, our nicely painted white radiators, and the custom 3D printed pump top for our DDC pump. We actually didn't have the appropriate O-ring for mounting to the distribution block, so this was fun. We ended up making use of some high-temp silicone, which worked surprisingly well. Wow, looking good. All done, right? And no. ["No"] Because we were dumb and didn't pre-sand it, it all has to come out again for sanding and then polishing. And I won't bore you with every detail, but the basic process for us involved sanding each pipe with a fairly rough 400 grit sandpaper, then polishing with some Brasso. This gave us a pleasing brushed finish that we really liked because the high shine polish style tubing didn't really fit the look we were going for or the timeframe that we were going for for this build. By the way, we'd recommend sealing the tubes with something like Bras lacquer when you're done, as the polish doesn't do much for preventing tarnish. Now for final assembly. We mounted our tubes again, ran our sexy cable mod pro cable kit, made it to our supremely reasonable RM750X power supply, and hoped for the best. G.A. lights on now, good, yeah, here we go. Once the RAM issues were resolved, it actually did end up working and the fill went pretty smooth with only one small leak. Jake forgot to put the O-ring back on one of the CPU fittings. Bringing us finally to the moment you've been waiting for, that sweet, sweet minute of jaw-dropping B-roll of what may be our most beautiful system yet. ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] ["No"] And that's how you water cool with copper pipe. We're probably never gonna do it again, but if you wanna go for it, then you know what I say? Fill your boots. Have some fun. Tear your hair out a little. Everyone's got their everyday grooming routine. Showering, brushing their teeth, and of course shaving. And no matter what your routine is, Dollar Shave Club has your back. Whether you wanna clean it with body wash, or shave it with razors, or brush it with toothpaste, no that's more for your mouth. It doesn't matter. The point is, with Dollar Shave Club you can look, feel, and smell your best. Your starter set will include their executive razor, and trial size versions of their shave butter, body wash, and one wipe Charlie's butt wipes. After your first box, replacement cartridges are sent for just a few bucks a month. And this $5 offer is available at dollarshaveclub.com slash Linus. That's dollarshaveclub.com slash Linus. We're gonna have that linked below. So thanks for watching guys. If this video sucked, you know what to do. But like, think, think before thumb-z-ing it down. Do you know how much work this was for Jake? But if you liked the video, hit like, get subscribed, or maybe consider checking out where to buy the stuff we featured in the video description. The link down there is our merch store which has cool shirts like this one and our community forum which you should totally join.