 Running a PC in a mini fridge just doesn't work. You know what does? Hooking up this 3000 watt refrigeration cooler directly to a CPU. At least I sure hope it does. By the end of this video, with any luck, Brian the electrician have transformed this gutted mini split into a CPU cooler and pulled a Core i7 down to what? Like negative 40 degrees Celsius? It's gonna be really stupid and huge thanks to Thermal Grizzly for sponsoring it. First thing we need to do is figure out where the heck the thermostatic expansion valve is. We've got our condenser here. It sends liquid to the evaporator. That turns all of your liquid into vapor with a U. Sends it back to here into the compressor. And if liquid gets sent back into the compressor, well, you put something that's incompressible into a compressor, things get really bad, really fast. That's why you need a TVX. Turns out it's right here, which is great because we are afraid it would be on the evaporator. The second thing we had to do is figure out how the heck this turns on and off. So this part right here goes into your house and it's responsible for like connecting to Wi-Fi and sending a signal to the outdoor unit, which actually does the real cooling stuff. I don't want to go down the electronics engineering rabbit hole of sh** for the next 16 hours. So we're just going to take this out and use it as is. Now I just need to go spend a lot of money on copper. Honestly, this is going to be really expensive. I'm sorry, Linus. Let's look at what we're going to turn our $200 of raw copper into using the Tormach. You're probably familiar with how CPU water blocks work. And this is kind of like that. But instead of using water to cool down your CPU, we're using the phase change of a refrigerant. Via a copper tube, our refrigerant will be aimed directly at the CPU. When it goes from the small diameter and high pressure of the tube to the comparatively massive space in here, the refrigerant should go from a liquid to a vapor, with the phase change absorbing loads of heat in the process. After that, we've created a maze of copper for the refrigerant to navigate before making its way back out the top. To create this maze, we'll need to machine four copper layers and then solder them all together, sealing the whole thing and not allowing any refrigerant to escape, which might be a bit difficult given that there might be over like two, three hundred PSI in here. This is my first time running the 16th inch, so we'll see if we blow it up, I guess. Yeah, it seems to be working. That tool is great for chip evacuation, so I think we're good. Never mind. I'm almost wondering if we should actually put a little bit of an orifice in the end of the tube, because with this sitting here, you're still going to have a pretty big opening. We could just crush the end of that. This is just the most YOLO evaporator. One thing we are going to have to be careful to do is make sure we put this through the top layer before we solder it down to the lower layer, because otherwise it won't go in. It wouldn't be great. I'm going to have to get this to sit up a little tighter as we're winding up with a bit of a gap. So I'll have to work on the end of this a little bit to make it all fit. Yep, this is why you double check everything when you're running new code. This was supposed to be a helix and it is there, but there's not enough space, so I decided instead it was going to plunge the tool right down to the final depth and then do a cut, which with a 16-inch cutter would have definitely blown it right up. So we're going to fix that. Ground the end down a little bit, got the end open back up, and okay, that's going to fit. So once we get the two major pieces soldered together here, I can solder the tube in and that'll seal it into this lower layer. And then as we add layers, I can solder the tube where it passes through each layer. Oh, final piece of copper. This one looks pretty good too with the nice stepped edges. Oh, my tap just broke in there. I guess this was a very sh** tap. That's cool now. What should I do? Oh, it's finally time. I might need the big head. This is way too hot for the FLIR to figure out what it is. It's actually soldered to the body. We have fire bricks down there for when you figure out how to get it off. Yeah, I think we're going to need that. I'll try to move it. So what have we learned, Brian? Fire bricks are our friends. Yeah, don't solder it to the bodies. That's a first for me. Does anyone want hearing protection? What's that? Have you ever seen a fire brick glow red? It's been real hot. Oh, yeah. Is that straight? Close enough. Yeah, you can feel the heat just radiating off. The coolant spraying off of the thing and hitting this screw hole and coming out. Need to fix that at some point. I'm going to have to do a little bit of a thing or two. Oh man, this looks kind of 엄청 job mich е парё, and we've got food here too. Still really hot. But the fire bricks are the hottest part. I dare you to lick it. I'll give you 10 bucks. I have an idea. Oh yeah. The top cooled down. Oh yeah, it is working. Alex, there's enough thermal mass here. You could use this thing as a heater. I just have to let it cool for a while. And I can clean it up, get some bare copper again, and then we'll solder on the last layer. And solder the hookups and let it cool again. And then we can pressure test it. Definitely gonna need to surface the bottom. Done. Wow. I don't think it's gonna leak. We did go through about a quarter tank of acetylene. That's a lot of potato cannon shots. Would you really want to use acetylene for that? I mean, I've seen potatoes shot with compressed air before. Oh yeah, I've used acetylene. The first time we shot it, my dad was like, you guys can't shoot that on the deck anymore because the windows move too much. It's got some good weight to it, that's for sure. We're in Brian's truck to do the last bit here. We just want to pressure test this. See the hose jump? 400 PSI. If there are any leaks, it should actually show up. Even just my pressure is fairly fast just because it's such a small volume. We're good. No bubbles. Good frigging job on the solder. Lock's pressure tested. Now we just need to get it ready to go on the CPU. Most of the crap is gone now, but during all the soldering, heating up, cooling down and so on, this might be very far from flat. So fortunately we have a lapping plate here. We're just going to mix up some oil. Oh, not that much. And a little bit of this stuff right here. It's just, what would you even call this? And now I just do this for quite a while. The lapping about halfway through made the bottom look like it was sandblasted, which reminded me that we have a sandblaster. Why does this thing look like garbage? It should look like a $300 part that it is. So there we go. Look at that. Out of the sandblaster, the surface finish on this thing is incredible. I also went in lapped the bottom once more. It's not a mirror finish, but who cares? We have thermal grizzly that'll fill in all the little gaps there. And now it's time for the hardest part of this. This is truly awful what you're doing. If you've never seen a motherboard prepped for sub zero before, this is probably going to be real hard to watch, but I swear this is much better than not doing it. You just see the Vaseline squishing out. This poor 8700K. I'd say that it didn't deserve this, but like it's going to be a real fast 8700K by the end of the day. So what are the chances this dies? I really don't think we're going to kill this CPU, especially given how much Vaseline I just put on here. But there's a reason that we're doing this on not our best CPU the first time. I think it'll be fine though. This is so gnarly, Brandon. Oh, this is so hard to turn. Everything's so slippery from all the Vaseline. So we have electrical, it's right in here. And now it's time to connect this up and fill it with refrigerant. First we have to pull it all down into a vacuum. Oh, now it's time to pull it down to a vacuum. We pull it into a vacuum to make sure that there's no contaminants. Nitrogen doesn't compress very well, at least not in an AC system. We'll probably get some condensation on the low pressure side. Yeah, if it's a problem, we can just insulate the whole thing. Got to use the sponsor of this video. Oh. Good old thermal grizzly cryonaut. Make sure it's reading really accurate. The sensor needs to get taped there, but we also just need to insulate the whole thing. Regardless. So I'm going to use the insulation tape stuff. Oh, we need an Allen key for those. Okay. I do think the chances are that one Allen key we don't have is the one we need. That's definitely too big. So I'm going to say chances are probably pretty good. We have the electrical connected. This is mostly a box now. We also have our electrical here running to it, which maybe works, maybe doesn't. Hopefully we can get refrigeration into it all. Are we good? Yep. All right. Let's hit it. Oh, is it on? Yeah. Oh, that's cold. Oh, E6. Okay. So it just shut down, but that definitely got quite cold. Do we have a manual for this thing? E6 malfunction of indoor fan motor. Exactly what you thought. All right. Let's plug that in. Oh, no, I was thinking just pull the motor itself out. Oh yeah. I was thinking we just chuck the whole thing on the table. Well, I mean, we could just for a quick test, but it'd be so good to cool a whole computer with this. I actually mounted in the front of the tower. Oh, the fan's coming on. So our controller isn't happy because it's 17 degrees in here and the lowest this will go is 16 degrees. So we need to heat up the temperature probe before it'll kick on. We don't want to melt the probe. It's all low. There we go. We can start to see the condensation on it. Negative three, negative four. It's still going. Oh, the lines are cold. This whole thing is frosted up. Well, should we connect it to a CPU? I think so. Okay. I'm very ready to. This is getting very cold, very fast. I'm at negative eight now. This is really about as jank as this could ever get. Oh wait, geez. Thermal paste? Thermal Grizzly would not have been happy if we forgot to put it on. So yeah, Thermal Grizzly sponsored this video and we are going to be using their cryo knot. They do have liquid metal as well, but that will just be metal at these kinds of temperatures. The cryo knot is good for down to what? Negative 200 degrees Celsius, something absolutely ridiculous like that. Oh wow. Nice. CPU temperature of negative three degrees Celsius right now. Not a bad start. Let's try what? Five gigahertz, 5.1. Let's try 5.3 and just see what happens. We have so much cooling. Let's try 1.36. We'll probably just get a blue screen, but whatever. Oh, it kicked off. Sweating. Yeah, it's sweating pretty bad. Should have encased the whole board in Vaseline in case something drips down on it. Oh, my windows is not happy. It's not even a stability error. It's just stupid. This drive has Ryzen on it. It's not our jank cooling setup. It's a driver issue. Yay. Nope. You piece of s***. Well, it definitely works. Although we're having trouble with the electronics, it seems to have some sort of like a defrost cycle or something like that. For our purposes, it's terrible. So preface, absolutely do none of this. We have a professional electrician and electrical engineer, but basically we're bald steep in this. We were hoping just the compressor. Okay, I don't know if I can say that. Our hope was that the compressor just ran off of AC so we could just have a switch, turn the switch on, compressor runs. We have cold. To clarify, we were hoping the compressor just ran off single phase AC. It's looking like it's actually a three phase motor. So what we've figured out is that most of the electronics garbage is to just feed it three phase AC. We have that here. We could just plug it in and send it. So full send on the three phase. How do you prove it? I'm legally obligated to say no. This is LCT. You just send it and see. We're already way past that you should not do this at home. By and large, we'll learn all the data. So we thought we figured it out, but then 190 volts DC at 180 Hertz. I think I know the answer. Precious DC is like one of those marketing spunk things. And it's actually just a three phase, two phase motor. So we're hoping that the compressor just ran off of AC. So those marketing spunk things and it's actually just a three phase Tesla motor, not Tesla as in the company, Tesla as the inventor. Yes. But basically instead of making it dumb, it might be easier to spoof the signal at this point. I mean, you can just look up three phase and see what happens. I just really don't want to blow up the compressor. Making it dumb was a lot harder than we thought it would be. Here we can spoof all of the different thermal probes and just potentiometer them until everything's happy. Or we can come to this board here and try to figure out what the enable pin is. So now I get to spend all of today spoofing thermal couples, hoping that works, feed it whatever it wants and it'll run. It's probably going to be the only mini split in existence with thermal Grizzly for its chips. This is the temperature probe that was on the evaporator and it seemed to shut down when we hit about negative 20 degrees. It might've been because of this. It might've been because of something in here, but we're going to test it out with this just at ambient temperature and see what happens. Oh, there we go. Yep. So that temperature is dropping and quickly. Now we just give it a minute. Wobbles concerning. A little worried. Hey Jamie. Hi. I dare you to stick your belly in there. So we're now into the negatives on the block. This is where we might be shutting down kind of soon, but we'll see. If it gets all frosty like this and then shuts off, all of this frost is immediately turning into water because it warms up pretty fast. That's really bad, as you can probably imagine. The compressor also is starting to frost up. So that's why I'm concerned that the problem isn't our evaporator, but one of the sensors in here is making a kick into a defrost cycle. This is where having a proper shroud on this probably would help a lot. We're having a lot of blowback. Is that negative 14 degrees now? It seems to be struggling to get below 14 degrees. Yeah, it's actually warming up right now a little bit. So that's probably the issue. Let's put the shroud back on for better cooling and try this again. Come on. Eat up. Kick on. Come on. Do it. That's a lot less sketchy with it properly secured. So we should now see the radiator temp go up as the evaporator goes down, which is exactly what's happening. Wonderful. I wonder if turbo will help us. If it's actually so stupid that just this sensor hitting negative 20 shuts it off, that will be amazing. I think the way to get it colder would be to cool down the radiator more. So we need to do two stages. We'll take our other air conditioner, hook it up to this. That would probably work. We're close to the moment of truth. If we're able to hold negative 20, that means I can finally finish this project. Holy Frank. This has been a lot of work. Thermal Grizzly, you really got your money's worth with this one. Jeez. Oh, negative 20. There we go. Still dropping. Radiator temp's actually gone up a little bit, which is cool. It looks like we're not dropping anymore though. We're probably just right at the limit of what this is able to do. Like I can feel a bit of the heat coming through and that might be enough to stop it from going any lower. It's looking good. If it's this dumb, I'm really happy. Like they did a good job, I guess, because like who wants something that's negative 20 inside of their house? Look at all that frost. I really hope this works. This is the last time that I apply some Thermal Grizzly Cryon, huh? I am so sorry, Roman. This is going for the hard mount, of course. I just want to get ahead of the comments here. I do know that the 8700K is still a very good chip, especially when overclocked like this one's going to be. It's really fast still. I'm going to turn the AC on now because it can take a little bit. Oh, that kicked on. More nice safety shop towels. That's already very cold. Yeah, that's sub zero. All right. So our CPU is currently at zero degrees. That's pretty good to start off with. It's kind of weird that it isn't lower. I don't know if during a Cinebench run, if this has the heat dissipation to deal with that, but we're about to find out. The temperatures, it increased to 38 degrees. Oh my God, that's so warm. 4.8 gigahertz all core. It seems like it's doing fine. I don't see any condensation. It's holding at 38 degrees. That is fantastic. Well, the overclock isn't holding quite like I'd like, but it still proves this works amazingly well. I could fiddle with it more, but I want to save all of my fiddling for the 12th gen in another video. That is cold. So huge thanks to Thermal Grizzly for sponsoring this video. Get some cryo knot or conducto knot. I don't know. Chuck it in your laptop, your GPU, wherever you want. I don't know. Don't eat it. Probably. Unless you want to. So if you liked this video, hit like, get subscribed, and maybe watch a video where we sub zero cooled the Alienware Area 51M with Steve. That thing was insanely cool and very scary.