 When you invite an animal as exotic as my oil-cooled workstation into your life, you invite potential problems. So, while I was extremely disappointed to see that Spot had left an oil patch on my desk from a leak that formed near the seam in the back when the system was roughly handled during our move, I knew what I was getting into when I built an oil-cooled PC. So, let's make lemons out of this life that lemonade something. Oil-cooled rig maintenance video time. The MasterCase 5 by Cooler Master gives you the freedom to truly make your mid-tower PC case your own with a variety of modular parts and accessories. Check out the link in the video description to learn more. Step one is to identify the cause of the leak, be it a crack or a failed bond at a joint between two pieces of acrylic. If it's a very, very slow leak like mine, the temptation to just put a drip pan under it and call it a day will be pretty strong, but small drips can turn into gallons of oil all over your floor very quickly with all of that pressure on them. So, I recommend finding a helper, putting your system on a plank that you don't care about, and moving it to a suitable place for repairs as soon as possible. Step two is to prepare your workspace for the tank itself. Garbage bags are a cheap spill-proof cover material for the table and floor where you're working, but I'd recommend also creating a ridge around the outside of the area and or pairing them with cardboard or newspaper to absorb excess spilled oil in case it drips off of the edges of your bags. You'll also need a place to put the internal computer components. My system can hang off of the edge of a large collection bin, but you might need to come up with your own creative solution here. Whatever it is you do, make sure that you've got lots of garbage bags and lots of paper towels on hand. Step three, lift the system out of the oil. We gave it a good 60 seconds for oil to drip from the video card, power supply, and heat sink fins before picking it up and resting it on a bin to collect the waste oil. You can let it go for longer, but if your plan is to let all the oil come off this way, then be prepared to wait for literally days. At this stage, the tank is ready to be emptied, or if there's nothing wrong with your tank and you're just performing some system maintenance, removing stickers with failed adhesive, swapping out memory sticks, etc., then you can do that now. Step four, it's time to prepare two basins, one for rocks and accessories, and the other to capture the rest of the oil from the machine. If you're going to reuse the oil like me, then it's a really good idea at this point to clean out the container before pouring oil into it. Mineral oil is a great cleaner and solvent in and of itself, and will pick up all kinds of dust and grime from anything that it touches. So unless you want that junk floating around in front of your video card, do a really good job of this. Then, depending on what kind of container you're using, a funnel might come in handy here as well, something I really wish we'd thought of when we originally built this machine, so make sure you clean that too. If you're not planning to reuse the oil, please contact a local waste management depot, or, failing that, ask an automotive shop where they take their oil to be disposed of correctly. Step five, pouring the oil out and removing the rocks. When it comes time to dump the oil, I'd recommend changing into clothes that you don't care about, assuming you haven't already. Mineral oil can be very difficult to get out of clothing, and, again, if you haven't already, I'd recommend removing any jewelry and throwing on some gloves, because it is about to get messy. Now, to be clear, mineral oil isn't particularly harmful, and is actually present in many cosmetics and household items, I mention its usefulness as a laxative, but it's extremely slippery, so getting it all over yourself isn't recommended either. Find a muscly-armed young gentleman to help you avoid throwing out your back, while you pour out the oil into your collection basin. For step six, now that the tank's empty, we can get a better look at the damage. While our earlier inspection of the leak revealed that the oil was only seeping out at the very bottom, there are actually numerous hairline fractures in the adhesive holding together the joint at the back of our tank. These were probably caused by the vibration from transporting the system in the back of a U-Haul. So I forgot for a minute that I should be driving really, really slow, because things are only somewhat secured in the back. Look at this guy not letting me in! What a jackass! So it's time to patch them up as best we can with the repair guide that was sent to me by John from Puget. One, wipe down the surfaces to be repaired. There's no need to get every last bit of oil off. Mineral is actually what they use to clean the surfaces before welding. But in our case, because there was no single obvious crack, I actually needed to clean it quite well to see what was going on. Two, if you can identify the crack, drill a small hole, like the smallest bit you have, at the edges of the crack to keep it from spreading any further. For us, however, because these microcracks are actually between the overlapped pieces of the main tank, we're just going to have to rely on the wicking abilities of our weld-on acrylic adhesive to fill in those gaps. Next, well, we apply the acrylic adhesive with the application bottle and needle, then leave that for an hour to cure. Finally, we apply this completely not dangerous sounding stuff over the cracked area, the same way that you would apply caulking to a seal in your bathroom, then allow it 24 hours to cure. Step seven is to come back to it the next day and just kind of visually inspect our caulking along the bottom and up the seam in the middle, make sure it seems like it's evenly distributed. And then once that's done, all that's left is the usual, you know, oil PC stuff. So we were able to put the rocks back in, spreading them out, and then basically just dumped the oil in. Doing this more slowly would have helped me avoid plunging my arm into the tank to reposition the rocks and decorations, but honestly, I was kind of in a hurry to get this video filmed by that point, so yolo. And then with that finished, it was time to submerge the system itself, carry it back upstairs, and power it on. Successfully even. Yay! Worked. So overall, I'd say that with a helper, adequate time, thanks to my laptop, it's not a huge deal for my desktop to be out of commission for a day for repairs, and with a suitable workspace, the results were satisfactory, the leak is now sealed, and oil PC maintenance was not as bad as I thought, but it still doesn't change my original recommendation at the end of the oil PC build log that most people should stay away from it unless they want to go through this kind of a process every time their PC stops running like a well-oiled machine. Speaking of running like a well-oiled machine, it seems like without fail, every time there's a power bank deal to be had on Linus Tech Tips, Ciro is the one providing it, and they are kicking off some Black Friday deals as well as introducing a few new products into their Power Plus 3 lineup. So the full details of the Black Friday deals are going to be available at the link in the video description, but in the meantime, we've got the Power Plus 3 Premium here featuring 20,100 mAh of capacity with three output ports through which you can simultaneously charge three devices with a total output amperage of 4.4 amps and a maximum of 3 amps per port. You can actually even charge a new MacBook if you have their USB-A to Type-C adapter cable with the estimated time to full charge being four and a half hours. Also announced is their Power Plus 3 Mini with a 6,700 mAh battery and the Power Plus 3 Stick. They haven't actually specified the size of the battery in it, but they do say it charges the iPhone 6 One, so we can assume it's somewhere in the neighborhood of 1,800 mAh. For deals on these and many other Ciro products, check out the link in the video description below. So that's pretty much it, guys. Thanks for watching. If this video sucked, you know where that button is. 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