 Welcome to my Cooler Master Elite 110 video. This is a tiny, tiny little PC case that holds a tiny, tiny little... well, PC. I mean, I guess you could put anything in it, but it's specifically designed to hold a PC. Click, click. INTRO MUSIC Hotspot Shield Service makes your internet browsing safer, more secure, and fully private. Click now to learn more. Let's start with the packaging. Fairly straightforward, fairly thin, fairly lightweight hard foam, but because it is such a small case and you can't really build a computer that's heavy enough for it to be a problem, I'm okay with that this time around. We'll go with an external tour for the start here. At the front, you find mesh. On the side, you find mesh. On the top, you find mesh. On the other side, you find mesh. And at the back, you find, well, mesh on the power supply, I guess, and then more ventilation. When you're trying to cram an entire PC with discrete graphics and up to a 4770K CPU into something this small, you'll need all the ventilation you can get and the Elite 110 delivers here. In terms of front I, oh, it's pretty standard. Fair. We've got two USB 3.0 ports, headphone and microphone jacks, a hard drive activity LED, a reset switch, and then the front Cooler Master logo is actually a power switch. There is no 5.25 inch bay, but most people aren't using those these days, so I'm not too worried about it. And there wouldn't really be room for it anyway, which you'll see once we open it up. At the back, you can see that even though the Elite 110 is a small package, that doesn't prevent it from having a pretty decent sized bulge on it. Sorry. The power supply does stick out the back a little bit. What this does is it gives you about an extra 20 millimeters of clearance internally so that you can fit a fairly normal sized power supply on the inside, again, even though the case is so small. The top casing comes off with four thumb screws that I'm just going to go ahead and remove here. Pull this baby off so you can see it fits on a little something like that. And then once we get on the inside, we can see it supports two 80 millimeter fans here on the side. However, that's only if you don't need a dual slot graphics card, which we opted to install. This is Linus Tech Tips, guys, not Linus and Namby Pamby tips. We're hardcore. We won't settle for onboard or single slot graphics cards if we don't absolutely have to. Now, with that said, on Cooler Master's site, they don't really show it being used the way that we're using it. And the case seems optimized for onboard graphics or a smaller graphics card with more storage as opposed to being designed for people who are trying to put a full on gaming rig inside. But I guess the only way to find out if this works is to check our temperatures at the end and see how it went. In the front, it supports either a 140 millimeter or 120 millimeter fan that takes advantage of that mesh. And you have the option to install a 120 millimeter radiator. The manual and product page don't specify the thickness that's supported, but I went with a Sidon 120 XL. So given that that went in there just fine with actual actually a fair bit more clearance to go, I would say pretty much anything should fit OK. In terms of CPU cooler support, it can handle a 76 millimeter or three inch CPU cooler. Not much space between the socket and the power supply up here. So using a stock cooler is an option, but not many aftermarket CPU air coolers will fit in there, which to me made that liquid cooler in the front a no brainer for our Core i7 processor. I was easily able to cram the tubing in here between the power supply and the motherboard, even though there wouldn't have been much space for airflow otherwise. It can handle up to a 180 millimeter power supply. That's in terms of length. Other than that, it's a standard PS2 form factor. But shorter is much better. I used a 160 millimeter power supply and this is a modular one, which gives me a little bit more flexibility in terms of using less cables and not having to cable manage as much. And this was about right for me. I think trying to do a 180 millimeter power supply in there would be quite a bit more challenging in terms of cable management. Now it's a mini ITX case, which means that even though there are two expansion slots back here, there's only one internally. So this is just for if you have something like a dual slot card. Cooler Master does support dual slot graphics cards then as you know, but not as long as you might normally see in a case that's a little bit bigger. So it supports up to a 210 millimeter graphics card. But there are a couple of things that you'll have to consider if you want to get a 21 centimeter card in there. Number one is that you're going to want a card that has a top mounted PCI Express connector. Or you're going to have to factor that in when you're taking your measurements because if it has a rear one, you're going to need a little bit of extra space for that cable at the back of the card. Number two is you're going to want to make sure you have a strategy for what to do with all of the cables and wires that you're going to have to hide in the front from the front panel connectors like the front USB 3. So what I did was I kind of crammed them into this corner, but I found that that ate up a little bit of the space that I would have had for a graphics card that took up the entire length inside. And a big part of the reason for that is because I'm using a radiator. If it wasn't for the radiator, I could put a fan grill on that front fan and then not have to worry as much about the space available in the front. So I squeezed the graphics card in at the end. I didn't have too much trouble with it. I mean, it all worked just fine. Just make sure as you're building, you're managing your cables correctly to ensure that you're able to get everything in there. Either way, whatever you're doing, I recommend leaving the front bezel actually detached. You can just pull it off at the front right here until the very end because that'll give you a little bit more room to work with and install all those cards as you're building the system. Now, in terms of hard drive support, I wanted a challenge when it came to hard drive installation. So I... well, okay, I guess I actually just kind of did it wrong. And to go back and do it over, I might turn the drives around. So you can see I have the mounted connectors towards the back and they're supposed to be mounted connectors towards the front. So I would turn the drives around and put the cables on the other side. And I would definitely install drives in the top slots before populating the side, especially if I have a mid-range graphics card in here. It's a 260X in there the way that I do because that's putting a lot of that graphics card heat next to my drives, which is going to be bad for them in the longer term. In the end, it worked. And the fact that this case supports up to two 3.5 inch drives and two 2.5 inch drives or three 3.5 inch drives or four 2.5 inch drives is pretty darn impressive given the size. And when we see our temperature tests, you're going to see that even with the hard drives in sort of their worst case scenario locations, it actually performs all right. After finishing my build, I did have one piece of criticism. I wish the manual was a little bit better. I've already brought this up with Cooler Master, but step-by-step build instructions and some useful guidance in terms of part selection would go a long way towards making the build process more enjoyable. The manual is well written and professionally made, but I would just like to see it go a little bit deeper. But to be frank, if that's what I have to complain about rather than things like, you know, what was the overall build quality like, then I guess they're doing pretty well. There were no rough edges, no things that could have cut me, no things that really bothered me. I looked at it and I went, really, what were they thinking when they did that? But I've come to expect this from Cooler Master, so it's hard to remember to mention that kind of stuff. And in fact, it's not even in my script. So there you go. I just remembered. Yeah. So with all that out of the way, let's talk results. Playing Far Cry 3 with the GPU usage pinned at 100% yielded 90 degree temps on the R7 260x that I have tucked away in that little corner in there. That might sound high, but remember guys, these modern GPUs are actually designed to ramp their fan speeds to target a specific temperature. And that card was reaching about 72% fan speed to maintain that 90 degrees. Yeah, it's a little bit on the loud-ish side, but it's not unreasonable by any means. And when you consider the stupid way my drives were installed, such that my graphics card really doesn't have much access to fresh air, it's obvious it could do a little bit better with more forethought. CPU temperatures, of course, were much better at an impressive 55 degrees max, but that makes sense because it's liquid cooled and access to fresh outside air for the radiator does wonders here. It's drawing that fresh air right in from the outside. So overall, the system is extremely small, extremely compact, runs quiet at idle, but of course gets a little bit louder under gaming load. And I'd say the Elite 110, if you're trying to build a tiny little system with good ventilation, gets a definite thumbs up from me. Guys, thank you for watching this video. Like it if you liked it, dislike it if you disliked it, leave a comment and let me know. Do you prefer small cases like this, or would you rather we do more coverage of things like the half stacker, for example, like large, more, maybe more versatile, but certainly less space conscious solutions. I guess there's a couple more things to mention guys. We do have a link to support us in the video description. 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