 Maybe the family computer just can't handle Fortnite or Minecraft the way you want. Or maybe you've just been pulled into the rise in hype. Either way, you want a sick new build to crush the competition. So, armed with our $900 US budget and our sponsorship from Nvidia GeForce and MSI, Thanks guys. We're gonna be putting together just that. When assembling a computer, a static-free workstation is a must. I use a Gamers Nexus mod mat and an anti-static ankle strap. With me as always then are my multi-bit screwdriver, my parts tray, my side cutters, my needle-nose pliers, and of course a pickaxe. For our processor, we chose the Ryzen 5 3600 non-X variant. It delivers great gaming performance, all but eliminating potential bottlenecking, so your GeForce graphics card can reach its full potential, and it has the multi-threaded horses to tackle late to moderate prosumer workloads. And don't forget, because all Ryzen chips are unlocked for overclocking, you should be able to get a little bit of extra mileage out of it as it ages. You can check out our video where Anthony gave the ins and outs of Ryzen overclocking up here. When installing the CPU, hold it by the edges and identify the corner with the gold triangle. Align that with the corner of the socket that also has a triangle. Lift up the retention arm. Place the CPU into the socket. No force is required here, it should just fall into place. If it doesn't, make sure that the retention arm is all the way up and re-seat the CPU. You can make sure it's all the way in by looking at it from the side. There should be no gap between the plastic of the socket and the substrate of the processor. Once you've done that, go ahead and lower the retention arm. If you really want to push your CPU to its limits, you'll need a beefier cooler to handle the extra heat. But the Ryzen 5 3600 does come with an included Wraith Stealth Cooler, which will be enough for anyone who's looking to run at stock speeds or even do some very light overclocking. Remove the plastic cover that's keeping the pre-applied thermal paste protected. If you damage your thermal paste, like we're pretending that we did, you can also just apply a dollop of your own thermal paste like so. The one thing to remember here, guys, is that it's thermal pad or thermal paste, not both. Next, remove these brackets from the motherboard. Then screw the Wraith cooler screws directly into the CPU backplate. Thread them in lightly, then tighten them down in a cross pattern. For the finishing touch, don't forget to plug the fan lead in. You can technically use any plug on the motherboard that you want, but if you use the CPU one, you won't end up with an annoying error message when you boot up the system. Choosing our system memory or RAM was really simple. We just fired up our own video explaining how different RAM speeds affect performance on AMD's Ryzen platform. You can check that video out here, or you can just save yourself 10 boring minutes and pick up a pair of these T-Force Delta RGB sticks. They're not the only good choice, but this 16 gig 3000 megahertz kit is a great balance between price, performance, and of course, that RGB goodness. And they're using Samsung dies right now, which is important for peak performance and compatibility on Ryzen. So pull back the tabs on these two RAM slots, then position each dim so that the notch on the bottom lines up with the notch in the socket. Press firmly until the tabs on either end snap back into place on their own, then repeat this procedure if you have another kit. With that said, unless you need the extra capacity for heavy workloads, one dim per channel is generally recommended for better stability. For our build, we wanted fast storage and a lot of it, and Intel delivered with the exceptionally affordable 660P NVMe SSD, which can usually be found for under $100 for a terabyte of M.2 storage. Poor hard drives. Never knew what hit them. Install the standoff that's included in the motherboard box in the hole that lines up with the end of your SSD. Then slide the SSD into the M.2 slot until it's fully seated. Push down the other end and secure the SSD with the included screw. Now before you put all your new hardware in your case, I always recommend that you verify that the system posts or outputs to the display. We're going to use everyone's favorite free test bench, your motherboard box. So what you do is get your graphics card, your power supply, and all that good stuff on here, then use your screwdriver to short out the power pins like so. Some motherboards actually have built-in onboard buttons just for this purpose, but ours isn't so fancy this time around. Once your system posts, you can check that everything is detected and detected correctly. You can see there's all 16 gigs of our RAM, our CPU shows up correctly. So ours worked out of the box, but if yours doesn't, it's possible that you have a defective or incompatible component on your hands. That's why we do this ahead of time so you don't have to extract it from the rest of your system. Now it's also possible though that you just need to update the motherboard firmware or BIOS because many of the 400 series motherboards on the market were manufactured before third gen Ryzen CPUs were available. AMD has a whole page on their website about this, and they've actually got a program where they'll even lend you an older CPU in order to update. Before resorting to that though, maybe check with the retailer you bought it from to see if they can help. Now it's case time. Well, we're going to take that off and stash it back in the box for safekeeping. You can set the thumb screws aside with the rest of the included hardware. Next, remove the opposite side panel by removing these two screws and sliding the panel towards the rear. Now guys, the SPAC-05 from Corsair may not look like much, but it's got ample intake space on the front and the bottom panel and a simple but effective layout for cooling. We're going to be pulling air in from the front of the case and exhausting it out the back. The front panel has space for three 120 millimeter fans or two 140s if we take out the three and a half inch drive cage. Poor hard drives. They never knew what hit them. And each one of these is going to need four screws. We opted for the lower mounts since we want that fresh air coming in right over our graphics card. But if you are carrying some hard drives over from your previous system, you can leave the cage and simply move your fans up. We went with some Arctic F12 120 millimeter fans. Now you could probably just use the included fan. Maybe pulling air in from the front and then blowing that fresh air over the graphics card, but it wouldn't be optimal. Remember kids, heat is bad. For our motherboard, we chose the gaming plus max B450 from MSI. Why? Well, because it's fine. It has an M.2 slot for our storage, a Gen 3 PCI Express 16x slot for our graphics card and... black and red, it matches our case. Before we install it though, we need to put in the IO shield. Now it won't ruin your build if you forget it, but you know, 100% completion, right guys? Press firmly on the four corners of the shield until they snap into place. Then our case has integrated ATX motherboard standoffs. So all we need to do is hold the motherboard by the heatsink and set it down like so before using the cases included M3 screws to fasten it down here, here, here, here, here, here, here and here. Pro tip by the way guys, to make your life easier, now is the time to connect the front power and reset switches and both the power and drive activity LEDs right here. You should also do front USB 3 and audio here... and here. Now if cable management is important to you, now is also the time to route these cables around the back of the motherboard tray. To power our rig, we chose the EVGA 700GD. It's gold certified and you can find it for under 70 bucks. Now fully modular would have been a nice to have feature, but it costs 10 to 15 dollars more without having any real impact on performance. So we left it out this time around. Slide the power supply into its home with the fan facing down. It'll draw fresh air in through the bottom of the case, which is filtered and exhausted out the rear of the chassis creating its own thermal environment separate from the rest of your system. Then fasten the PSU in place with the included 632 screws. We can now connect all our cables. So you'll want to run the 8-pin connector behind the motherboard tray for it to come out here... and then plugs in right here. The 24-pin connector goes into here and then plugs in right here. Make sure that you go all the way until it clicks by the way. And our single 8-pin PCI Express power cable routes in here and then up through here. And that's it for power. Speaking of power, I've got a powerful thirst. Building computers ain't easy, so don't forget to hydrate. LTTstore.com We settled on MSI's Ventus OC RTX 2060 6G graphics card. Now, it may only have a 1.8% overclock, but it's got a bigger dual fan cooler than Nvidia's reference design and a slick looking plastic backplate, all without breaking the bank. Start by removing these two PCI slot covers. Align the graphics card carefully with both the motherboard's PCI Express slot and the openings at the back of the case. Then, making sure that the tab on the back of the slot is open, push the card in firmly until the tab snaps shut. Then, you can put your case screws back in. Finally, we can plug the 8-pin PCI Express power connector that we cable managed earlier. Now, this side of the case is, thankfully, completely opaque, so whatever mess you make on the back side will be completely hidden. With that said, these cable tie loops and the included zip ties will go a long way towards pinning everything down and making it easier to replace the side panel. The one thing that you can't hide is the large mess of wires that are left over from our power supplies, so if you take some time and neatly wrap these cables up, it'll be worthwhile from a dust-gathering perspective anyway. So with that done, secure any loose cables to your liking, then close up the case. Your build is done. Time to set it up. Now, I'm just kidding. It's bad Jeebies to close the panel of a case before you install Windows, so we're going to do that later. While we fire up the machine, let's talk through our peripheral choices here. So this is the Dell S2419 HDF, and it's a great match for an RTX 2060. It's 1080p 144Hz. It happens to be G-Sync compatible, and it's got 1 millisecond response times. As for our keyboard and mouse, we're not going to talk too much about those because we've actually got some budget keyboard and mouse roundups coming, so make sure you're subscribed so you don't miss them. Oh, cat's out of the bag. We've already got Windows on here. Now moving on to BIOS setup. Ah! On any newer platform, it is important to download the latest UEFI BIOS from the manufacturer website and flash it using a USB drive. Once that's done, all we need to do is go into our AXMP, set profile 1, press F10, and enter. I mean, I guess while we were in there, we can also make sure that our Intel SSD is our first priority for booting. That way, once Windows is installed, or Linux, you're not going to find any judgment here, you won't have to go back into the UEFI BIOS to adjust this. Our next step is to use Microsoft's tool to create a bootable USB drive and then reboot the system while mashing F8 immediately to get to the boot device selection menu where we can choose that drive. Once the setup process has begun, it's basically just a matter of hitting next, next, next, next, until you land on the Windows desktop. Once we're there, we head to the MSI website to download the latest drivers for our chipset, audio, and networking devices, et cetera. Then we head to NVIDIA's page for our latest graphics drivers. Install your preferred game launcher of choice, or launchers. I mean, it is 2019. And then, boom! Okay, forgot you. What kind of performance can you expect from a machine like this? Well, that is looking real nice. So we are getting anywhere in the neighborhood of low hundreds to 125, 130 FPS in this game. Really liking it. And of course, the animation smoothness is absolutely... Ba-dum, ba-dum, ba-dum, ba-dum. We're running! Oh, wait! No! As for Witcher 3, which is a bit of an older AAA title, we've got this cranked to ultra everything, and we're still getting right around the neighborhood of, you know, 90 to 100 FPS. See ya. See ya, see ya, see ya. Yeah, it's fine. It's not that important to me. Whoa, look at that. Look at him go. Wub, wub, wub, wub, wub, wub, wub, wub, wub. So at this point, I think it's safe to say that we can put our side panel on and call our build complete. So in terms of what you can expect from a machine like this, 100 plus FPS at 1080p in most modern titles, unless you absolutely crank the details. So that means with one of these, you can feel free to, you know, fray out in hard carry mid with your ADC or whatever, or just enjoy Minecraft with RTX on, which, unironically, looks really, really cool. So thanks to Nvidia for sponsoring this video, and of course a shout out to MSI, AMD, Intel, EVGA, Corsair, Team Group, and Dell for providing the other hardware that we showed.