 Welcome to my unboxing and first look at the Zulman CNPS 20LQ. Now the CNPS, now if you guys have been PC enthusiasts for long enough, you'll remember what that actually stands for. Speaking of which, I think I still have one of the first enthusiast grade products that I ever bought. Let's see if I can find it. Ah yes. No, this isn't the one I was thinking of. The first one I bought was actually a CNPS 7000, which was the original flower from Zulman. This is a 7700, the only difference being that it uses a 120mm fan. And the other one that I had was a pure copper one that weighed a ton, cooled really well, well, for back in the day. Anyway, okay, okay. So CNPS, case noise prevention system or something along those lines. If I'm wrong, if I don't remember exactly correct, please do leave a comment and let me know. But either way, we've come a long way. So this is a liquid cooling unit, liquid sealed water cooler for easy installation and freedom from maintenance, built in pump within water block, minimizes tubes, therefore increasing reliability. That is actually true. More joints is more points of failure. Micro fins made of pure copper inside the water block provide excellent heat transfer, so that is referring to the block right here. Durable and long lasting tubes are easy to bend, allowing easy installation. If these are the ones I think they are, then that much is true as well. Low profile water block design enhances airflow inside the chassis. This can be a factor, guys. Like, check this out. So over here, this is my Ivy Bridge test bench, and you can see here that the VRM coolers, so around here on the voltage regulation modules, do require some active airflow. So when you have a fan on here, they obviously get some. However, if you have a big bulky water cooler, what that can do is it can actually impede the airflow around the CPU socket area, causing it to overheat, which can cause it to be less stable. So if you have a nice low profile CPU water block, then you should be less likely to run into any difficulty with that. So here we are. Comes with a PWM fan that runs at 2000 RPM at full speed. Inside, we find some foam. We find a user's manual, which looks pretty straightforward. Okay. Then, we find the unit itself. It's got a bit of a different look. Now, this is an Asetek OEM unit, so if you guys are familiar with what that means, you'll know that it means you've got a fairly bog standard set of mounting hardware. So you see here, these are all labeled. 775, 1156, and 1366 are all on there. You can see we've got AMT retentions right here. We've also got our Intel hold down here. And then with these clips right here, I believe it should be compatible with socket 2011 or LGA 2011. So you've got all the various... Oh, it might be this one. Whatever. You've got all the various retentions that you need for 775, FM1, 1156, 1155, 1366, 2011, AM3, AM3+, AM2, AM2+. Pretty much whatever you need. Comes with a Zalman fan, PWM, fairly long wire on it, so you can run that to wherever it is that you need to go. Seems to be a fairly sturdy construction compared to the fans that you usually see included with these prefabbed water cooling doodads. A little plastic cover here. And we find something that looks pretty familiar at this point. So one key difference that we find is that it does use the more rubbery style of tubing. What this does is this minimizes the amount of evaporation that can occur compared to these ones over here. These kinds of more plastic tubings, they're also much, much easier to route. So these tubes are not... They will kink if I go much further than that. Whereas this guy right here is capable of being tied up into a knot without actually kinking due to the thickness of the wall. So having a thin wall tubing means you are more prone to kinking, whereas having a thick wall tubing means you are less prone to kinking. There's no performance advantage either way, but it definitely gives you more flexibility in terms of like if your CPU socket happens to be here or here or here or here or like here, then no big deal. Now you've also got some more installation flexibility where you're using rotating fittings right here so you don't have to worry about any leaks or anything like that. You've also got pre-applied thermal compound. This is a fairly good quality thermal compound, so if this is the first time you're installing it, I wouldn't recommend replacing it with something else. You're gonna wanna just go ahead and install that right on there. It's only if you take it off and need to reapply it, you need to clean both your CPU and the surface and then reapply thermal compound. Now for the radiator, we see where it's using a thick style radiator, so you're going to see better performance than you would with a thin 120mm rad, although not quite as good as you'd see with a thin dual 120mm rad like the one over there on the H100. That's running on my Ivy Bridge test bench. And I think that pretty much covers it as far as other installation tips go. The last thing I do is whenever possible, you wanna install it with the barbs up on the radiator. Or, sorry, pardon me. Barbs down because what that means is any air pockets will be isolated here rather than constantly cycling through your loop and making noise as they pass through the pump which is contained in the CPU block here. And I think that pretty much covers it. Thank you for checking out this unboxing and first look video at the Zollmann CNPS20LQ. Don't forget to subscribe to Linus Tech Tips for more unboxings, reviews, and other computer videos. Doesn't this have a sharp look with the blue on the sides of the radiator? As long as you've got like a blue theme going on in your case, that's gonna look really good. Might not work with, you know, sorry I got my salad here, just put that away. Might not work with like a red theme system like this one, but if you have a blue theme system that should look really sharp.