 What you're looking at right now is my chiller. I got it for myself 15 years ago as a birthday present, and with a little bit of teenage engineering, I was able to achieve sub-zero CPU cooling with an overclocked E6600 at four gigahertz 24-seven. I took it with me everywhere, even to LAN parties, and it remains the most potent cooler here at Linus Tech Tips. But to say it's sketchy would be an understatement. We've got sharp edges, we've got no grounding, we've got an extremely dangerous exposed capacitor, and it also doesn't look too great. But today, that changes. No longer will we have to cart around the ugly carcass of an air conditioner to cool our computers, because now we can cart around the ugly carcass of an old air conditioner in a fancy enclosure. This is the Chillinator V2. Let's get to building it. You can tell it's already better than a Mac Pro because it has wheels that lock. Check out the EcoVax D-Bot Osmo Robot Vacuum on alibaba.com. They've also got their March Expo 2020 happening, which features more than 35,000 global suppliers, online, of course. Check them out now at the link below. So I'd like to say that we have a really legit, complete plan, but we really don't. So basically the idea is, you know, hot side here, cold side here, some steel that you have in your hands. We cut it, weld it, and hopefully it all fits together. How does welding work? The easiest way to describe it is you're just pushing electricity in, well, with aluminum, we're pushing it both in and out of the material. So we're just throwing lightning at things, really. I know, I know. Some of you might be confused. Did he really just say that welding is throwing lightning at things? Well, let's look at how welding actually works so you can go from a regular Bruce to a zappy Zappanzoose. See, mastering welding, much like mastering the Kama Sutra, is more about careful balance and making sure everything is clean than pure power. When exposed to the air, the molten metal in a weld can react with the oxygen, nitrogen, and hydrogen contained in the atmosphere, become very porous, and splatter all over the place. The same goes for potential contaminants on the surface of your metal. If there is grease or rust on there, your welds will be more splattery than dad's Sunday bacon, but not nearly as tasty. To get a good arc weld, you need enough current to melt the metal, but not so much that you blow clean through. You need proper shielding gas coverage to prevent air getting in, and also loads of practice. If you wanna know a bit more, maybe watch this video by this old Tony. He might not be a professional, but in my opinion, that whole accredited schooling thing is a bit of a racket anyway. When you're welding, you need to cover all your exposed skin. Anything that's not covered will get sunburned, and it's not fun, particularly in January. And so this guy, when it senses an arc, will darken automatically to whatever shade I decide. I think you should go away now. I don't wanna embarrass myself. Well, Colin's back at the shop getting started on welding. I'm heading to the metal mart and getting some aluminum. It's all going to be cut to size, so we should just be put it on, either rivet it or screw it, depending on which one it is. And our job shouldn't be all that hard, at least as far as that's concerned. So we just got some TIG rod that's the right size for the welds that we need to do in the steel. And they didn't have any general purpose stuff there. So we now have the premium grade stuff that's normally used for offshore piping and nuclear power plants. So what we're doing before we actually push the whole thing together and weld is we're just tacking everything. So this means we're putting little tiny dab welds on all the joints, and we're gonna tack it all together loosely. And if something goes wrong or we screw up an angle, we can just tap it out or we'll cut it. Then once we're happy with everything, we'll go back and actually finish weld everything. Now to do that, we're using welding rod. And a trick of my old buddy Dave taught me back when I was young is to put a little bend like this in all your welding rods. So that way, when it goes down on a table, no matter which way it lands, you always have something to pick up when you have welding gloves on. So anytime you havelk allez皇 and w I'm lacking in clamps. We have a box. It's nothing too incredible. Like it's not the straightest box in the world, but it's actually not moving around right now. So it's really not that bad. We need some better clamps to get But whatever, next time. The router is about to make us the holes for all the fans to go in. I want to cut some LTT logos in it so it looks, you know, pretty cool. This tape that we're using is actually supposed to hold carpets in place. So I just did the math. We're going to get about 4,000 pounds of force to lift this. I don't think it's coming off. I think this looks awesome. Now I just have to be careful not to, you know, bend the whole thing while I try and get it off. I'm just wiring things. No one's interested in wiring things. There's a hot side. There's a neutral side. They go together. That's it. I pulled a bit of an engineer on you in the sense that I drew something in SolidWorks, right clicked it, hit weld, and just didn't think about it again. This has been rough. I went through probably half a pack of Tungsten's experimentation, throwing things across the shop, getting angry, storming out, coming back in, trying again, storming out. And I figured out my issue. I had a little bit of a gas coverage issue. I had choked out too far on the Tungsten, and now I'm actually making semi-decent welds. But are we leaking? I don't think so. Nope. I did it. So heavy. The biggest problem with the current, you know, this is the chances of getting electrocuted. If you get anywhere close to it, you touch that, you touch this, you know, water spills out onto the table and you touch like the table, you're done. To take care of all of that, I got these wonderful terminal blocks. They're really overkill, but these are going to handle like live and neutral. And then ground, we only have one ground lead, so I'm just gonna put that right to the chassis here. The thing that really is going to save our butts though, this is a ground fault circuit interrupter or GFCI. This is kind of like what you'd find in like your bathroom. You know, the one that's annoying that always does the pop thing. That's so you don't get electrocuted. Basically how this works is that it's constantly monitoring the current going into the live and out of the neutral. So if it sees that there's a difference between those two, it means that maybe current's going like between this chassis and my body. In which case it's like pop. And instead of me getting electrocuted, I just need to go over and hit reset. Electroboom has a really good video on this if you want to figure out how it works a bit better, but this should save our bacon in the case that something in here leaks. We're going to have to bend these a fair bit to get this in the middle, but. Worst case scenario, we vent a bunch of, you know, dangerous gases into the atmosphere. I was thinking that we would just reuse these rubbers, but the problem is that they're kind of, they're kind of used. Yeah, you don't want to reuse rubbers. No, that'd be bad. Might just be the easiest way to do this. Yeah, that's kind of what I was thinking too. A little bit too much wobble. Rubber's just a little big. No, you know what? You should just get some bigger studs. Studs for your rubbers. Yeah, yeah. So the plan was to use some power switches that we had just laying around, but while I was out to get this big old terminal, I also got two of these guys. Functionally, it's no different, but man, don't know if you can hear that, but like, just feels so good. It's pretty funny seeing Linus's angle grinding skills from when he was just a youngin'. Kind of, could have really used some deep burping, I think. That'll cut ya. To mark out the holes here, I've just gone and measured everything from these two edges because I know that they're, although maybe not perfect, they're better than the ones that I did with the angle grinder. We'll just do the last one here. Just used some layout dye and the cheap calipers to scribe everything, and then we'll just center punch and drill it. I've made a plate that holds the compressor, and we're going to make sure that the stud pattern fits before I take weld this all together and we start actually making mounts for everything that's gonna go in the box that we made. So I'm just going to measure, confirm, mark out, then we'll tack it, through weld it, and we'll put the plate on it. Done, pump mount, yep, fan cut out. Almost there. Done, panel, no, weld is done, tubing can, yes, yes. RGB, definitely. It's 530, okay, we're supposed to go home now. This is kind of like the speak now or forever hold your peace moment. I know you and I had discussed the inlet and outlet, and there were two key items. So is the pump oriented this way? More like this way. So yeah, we need a port here for the inlet of the pump. Is that the plan? Yep, yep. Perfect, okay. Then the coolant needs to come in here. That way we have the coolant flowing across the evap. Cause what I've observed is that if I have it configured the other way, which I have actually done in the past just to experiment with it, it really does cause problems. Like there's a significant difference in temperature across the two sides of the tank. And we're gonna have two switches, one for the pump, one for everything else. Yep, yep. Okay, are we gonna have a temp probe separate from the one for the thermostat that's just into the water and just has a re-out? I wasn't planning on it, but it's pretty easy to do. This is gonna be insulated. Yes. Yep. Cool, I would probably have actually a lot of my airflow coming in right here. And then the pump also needs cooling. So I would probably have it coming in here, but then not over here where all the cold things are. All right, is that all you guys needed before? Yep. Sweet. What the fuck are you doing? Jesus. Oh, fuck. Did you get putty? No, I don't know where the putty is. Jesus Christ. How did this happen? Why did it start? I don't know. Oh God. It's a ductile failure. I know, real factor. Oh. I made a boo boo. By pulling this thing in and out of the chassis, like 15 times, we fatigue failed the tube and now it's leaking all of the refrigerant atmosphere. Sorry, mother earth. All of that refrigerant is now gone. So we need to get it recharged or remade, or I don't know, buy another one. Things are bad. About two weeks ago, I thought that this project was totally done. We spewed R22 all over this place, which is bad for the environment. And it turns out R22 isn't exactly easy to get because it's really bad for the environment. I thought we were done, but it turns out that Brian here just has 22 pounds of it, just sitting around. 24. Surprise. I do refrigeration now. Yeah. So now we have to tap these valves onto here, pressurize it, find out where the leak is, fix the leak with acetylene, then fill it with R22 and we'll be good. This here's the point of the build where we know what we have to do, you know what we have to do. So it's just about getting her done. I actually haven't seen this in quite some time. You guys have made some real progress here. Castors aren't mounted yet. Nope. Do they lock? Yes. Hey, and it's ahead of the Mac Pro already. Got them. Yeah, we still have a bit of time to, you know, change things around. So that's why we have the Linus review. Yeah, Nicholas really killed it on the little knobby coming there. I like it. Beautiful. Fundamentally, here's how it works. Our old air conditioning unit has its compressor, it's got a hot side and it's got a cold side. So these fans cool the hot side and the cold side sits immersed in this toilet plumbing reservoir that we've got right here. Then we've got a typical water loop, except that it's gonna be as cool as nearly minus 30 degrees Celsius. So this pump right here, which is validated for use with the obviously not water coolant that we're gonna be using, probably windshield de-icer, it's gonna pull that fluid in here. Then it's a simple matter of plumbing it up to whatever computer it is that we're trying to chill. These switches turn on the AC and the pump independently. That's really good because if you wanna just like make sure the AC is working and everything, get the coolant chilled, that's nice. And then if you wanna run your pump later, that's pretty cool, turning off your pump. It's good stuff. This dial is actually part of the original mechanism. So it's just a good old classic super analog thermostat doodad. So we chuck that down there and that'll automatically turn our compressor on and off depending on how cool we want our coolant to be. And that's where my questions start. Have you guys given much thought to condensation in this thing? Everything here is going to be insulated and it's all along the bottom. And then there's a drain port down on the bottom here. This is all going to be insulated. So hopefully it doesn't get too bad. But if it does, at least you'll be able to see, you know, water coming out of the drain port instead of water getting to the electronics on the other side. How are you insulating this? Spray foam. Oh yeah, the RGB was such a pain. Like look at all of the cabling that has to be there. I see that, it's all jammed in there. Sophisticated jank. I'm not a fan. What were you guys thinking here? What do you mean? This like gooey crap. Why did you put a hole in the reservoir? Why didn't you just bring it in from the top? Well, because it's the thermal probe. It needs to be able to get the coolant temperature like in the middle. It's also a tapped hole. It's like a thermal probe that's threaded. That's like put through. Okay, are we ready to test? Yeah. Oh boy. Not bad. I don't see it going into the tubes, which is making me a little uneasy because this is a lot of water that I'm pouring and I don't know where it is. Oh, this is a really big tank. Yeah. You guys should have done a smaller tank. Why should we do a smaller tank? More thermal mass. No, no, no, that's bad because it takes way longer to cool it down. Oh. Well, it's smaller than the other one. So the good news is it definitely primed the prompt. Oh, it's also leaking. Yeah, it's also leaking. The point was to leak test it. Well, you know, leak test it a bit. Well, yeah, we leak tested it. It failed. Well, just, you know, let's make sure all of this electronic stuff is not too close to it. Yeah, it should be fine. Yeah. And so the fans go on immediately. There's no switch for them. I figured that you just always want RGB. That's fair. Okay, so we should hook something out up to this. Yeah. Okay. Well, that seems to be working. All right, I'm gonna go grab some fittings for the ERP. Hopefully we don't gush too much water while we put them on. Yeah, I guess that if you want it, well, I get those. You could always try and, you know, stop the pump from leaking. Oh, I put a clock there. Good job. After Brian did the repair, you guys checked and made sure the hot side gets hot and the cold side gets cold, right? Yeah, like I sent you that picture of the cold side getting all condensationing, right? We tipped it. Oh, yes. Do we need to wait? You shouldn't tip a compressor and then run it again immediately. I think it has more to do with the lubricants and oils or something. I'm not an expert. I just know that you're not supposed to do that. Fear me. All right, well, I guess while we wait for the compressor to do its thing, should we drain it? All right, here it goes. Ah! We can probably just put it on the ground. Yep. Quite the flow we have. Yep, it's draining. So we left it for a few hours. Let's see if the AC works. Works way better if you plug it in. Oh, it's working. I read it all of the electrical in here. It's way less sketchy. Look at this. It's held in with zip ties now. Cool. I think it's getting cold. I could be imagining it. I am fairly certain it's getting cold. It's also grounded now. Remember last time how it was just like dangling, mcdangling? I see that capacitor is still just hanging. Yeah, the capacitor is still, but it's like, you know, it's mostly hidden. I love that we spent all this time and money on this thing and it's still jank. Maybe that was just its destiny. It's way less jank. It's less scary. Oh, good God. Okay, that was a bit of a miscalculation. The point was to leak test it. We can't leak test it when it's soaked. Oh, is that fitting dripping? I don't know. It's covered in water. So I guess we could also test the pump, right? Yeah. Ready? And one, two, three. Well, that did its job pretty fast. Yep. For better or for worse, this is the new and improved chiller. Yeah. Do you want to describe the final product right now? I would love to. Everything I'm saying right now is a guess, but I imagine a gorgeously painted monolithic cube of cooling prowess with a massive four gallon reservoir, industrial switches for independent control of the AC and pump, a thermistor port so that we can measure the internal temperatures of the reservoir. And of course, a gorgeous pink temperature control dial, all held in place with a pristine combination of zip ties, electrical tape and hook and loop straps, lttstore.com. Fundamentally, what we're looking at is exactly the same thing that I built in my in-laws backyard 15 years ago, but with a degree of refinement. So now instead of carrying it around in pieces and risking slicing your hand open, you can carry it around as one big piece and risk slicing your hand open, but at least less risk of slicing your hand open and no exposed capacitors. So hopefully we're gonna be bringing you guys some great sub-zero cooled projects over the next little bit here with this thing. And if not, well, it can always sit in the Indiana Jones warehouse until we finally do need it. Cause we actually use it like quite a bit sometimes. Yeah, I'd say quarterly. The D-Bot Osmo features carpet detection technology, which allows it to avoid your carpets while it's mopping and increase suction for a deeper clean when it's in the vacuuming phase. It's programmable to schedule cleaning, custom modes. You can even set it to use extra water for the mopping process. It's got up to a 200 minute runtime and will return to its base to charge at the end of its battery life. I'm starting to charge. Alibaba.com offers wide variety of suppliers all over the world from the US to Italy to India, and even more. Remember to check out the March Expo 2020 on Alibaba.com for more than 300,000 new products. We gotta give this a crack with the 64 core thread reaper. Oh yeah. Yeah, that's the kind of thing that can justify a 1200 watt cooling system.