 Welcome to the Fallout Build Log. It was said to not be possible to fit a computer into the bomb that comes with the Fallout anthology. But with determination and a really good 3D printer, we're gonna make it work. The Master Case 5 by Cooler Master gives you the freedom to truly make your mid-tower PC case your own, with a variety of modular parts and accessories. Check out the link in the video description down below to learn more. Alright, so this isn't a normal build log, as you can probably tell, this isn't a normal case. With a normal case, you can check what it's compatible with and just order things that it's compatible with and put them in and everything's fine. This is obviously not naturally compatible with anything. So there had to be some feasibility testing. I've already kind of planned out the parts. I've got a Maximus Impact 8, I've got a tiny little SFX power supply from Silverstone. This is a 300 watt, trying to get a 450, more about that later. I've got an R9 Fury Nano, I have some low profile Vengeance LPX, I've got an SSD, riser cable, we'll talk about that stuff later. I've done some planning, but one problem is part of that planning involves being like, well damn, this thing is definitely too small. If you look at it, the usable space is tiny. It's not that big. And a lot of its curves, which are not that usable for computer parts, which are very much boxy. So it needed to be extended. I worked with Taren and we 3D modeled some stuff. So we did some test things first, surprisingly and awesomely. Taren's first one actually fit quite well. We did some minor changes to the fit and added some fitting tabs for these Faco screws that are on the side. Also worked quite well. So we moved on to the jumbo, the big guy. This one actually makes it tall enough that I can fit all of my stuff. Now, when looking at this, it maybe doesn't look the greatest. You might be like, but Luke, it's lime green. The rest of it's not. It's okay, we'll get more to that later. I'm going to try to get some color coded spray bombs, which actually like match the green and the brown speckle that's already on here. We'll touch up the aesthetic there, but for the rest of the build, there's some plans, but not all of them is planned. And you guys are going to have to come along with me for that. So with this build, there has to be a balance between badassery and functionality. And one of the most important things, in my opinion, with this build to do with badassery is this button. When you press this button right now. Awesome. Super follow the that's great. But I want this button to also turn on the computer. I could have hooked it in in parallel onto the power switchy thing using this and stuff, but there's some voltage problems or something. I'm not super great with electronics, so I'm going to solder in another switch. How this thing works is it's a big plate that presses down onto another plate, which has a button mounted in it. So what I'm going to try to do is add another button so that this plate press down actually presses two buttons. Now, I don't actually have another one of these spare switches. That's where this hunk of junk comes in. So this guy up at the top I found has a very usable little tiny switch. So I'm going to drill the rivets out, rip this thing out, separate it from these wires, cut that off, tear it out, mount it into that plate, solder it into the thing, and then hopefully it works. I might just break it. Oh, yes, I will just break it. So it's actually just this module right here that I need. It's OK. You're probably editing this. OK, I think that opened it up for me. There we go. While I'm salvaging this computer case, I'm ripping out its switch and I'm using it for something else. So if that's not fall out, I don't know what is. I just need two of the wires and I only need the ones that go to the actual switch itself. One thing that's really cool that I got for this build is this tiny little low profile SATA cable. Although the SATA connections on this board are right next to the RAM, so it's kind of a problem. But if I put it in the bottom slot down here and just kind of work the cable around the bottom of the RAM, but above the PCI Express slot, I can kind of make it come out just fine. So this will work for my SSD. OK, so I'm just testing to make sure that the system actually works. So this is the mess of components that I have to get inside of the bomb. Got postcode. Oh, there we go. OK, so I don't have a keyboard or anything installed. But as you guys can see on the monitor, honestly, that's good enough. The system works. So moving on, I need to turn this off. Then I need to wrap my switches things around these poles. Maybe I can't wrap it around. Can I get a helper? Go. Hey, hey, OK. So now I need to solder this in place so that it's not just held by me. Thank you, Helper Colton. You can go back to doing whatever you're doing and we're good to go. Theoretically, it works. So now, as long as I don't massively screw up everything by my terrible soldering job, we're good. OK, so my horrible, horrible, horrible, horrible, horrible soldering job is done. Turn the power supply on. Doesn't automatically turn on. That's a good thing. Press the button. Yes. OK, the button works. I need to find a way to mount this little box on the plastic plate that is already in there and already has one switch. I just need to add another one. God, I'm happy that worked. This one has a lot more travel time than this one does. This one's a very shallow press. Also, the button swivels on a fixed point on the bottom. I would like to mount this as high as possible, but there's stuff blocking a tall mount in here. The ideal location is where this random kind of plus symbol post is. I'm going to have to try to remove that and then drill through it and see if I can mount something right there. Might not want to show that. It's like not a proper way to use a drill, just so Taryn knows. I'm just going to hold my switch in the hole that I cut for it. This represents if I like hot glued it in or something. OK. That did not work. So it works if you press like super deep. I need to make the hole bigger. There is not that much time between now and when Fallout 4 comes out. If anything goes wrong, I'm screwed. I'm doing a lot of things in this build that could completely screw the entire build over. I hope this switch works. Alright guys, we're back in the office now. One of the problems with painting this is that the surface is very different than the surface of the bomb. The surface of the bomb is super smooth. This guy has flat walls because it's a 3D printer and it was printing kind of with some flat walls. So I need to sand that down so it's a little bit more smooth. This is going to take a little while so super speed time lapse engage. I'm just going to tie a shirt on my face. OK, so it's largely sanded down. This is filler primer so hopefully that will help kind of fill in some of the grooves that are still existing and we can get going. One of the problems is that the clearances on these things are actually pretty tight. So I'm going to try to tape them off and then we'll be good to start spraying. I've never spray primered anything before. Let's hope I don't super suck. That would be a huge waste of time. What do you think? Any problems? That's a lot smoother, I can already tell. So we're going to bring this into dry again and then we might do it one more time. So through the combined efforts of my triangle file and my large flat file, I was able to open up that circular hole that I had drilled and make a square hole and the switch fit through. I need to secure it. Got some hot glue. That should be fine. But there's one problem that remains. It has to be so far out that I can't actually slide it in because it will interfere with the rim of the bomb. So I have to actually take it out and then put the switch plate back in all the way and then fit it in. Why this is a problem is I have to hot glue it in a position that I can't take it out. And that sucks. That's super sketchy. But anyways, let's give it a shot. Don't touch it. It drives pretty fast though. OK, so everything's put together. If it doesn't work, I'm going to pull my freaking hair out. Let's try it. It made the noise. The computer turned on. We're good to go. Moving on to other things. All right, guys, this is primer coat number three. It's starting to come along. We might do one or two more. Another problem to be solved. The power supply of this rig will be going into the top of the bomb up here. I need you to be able to plug into it into the bottom of the bomb. So I need to create an extension. So I needed a right angle connector with a favorable inlet. So what I did was I got a right angle cable and I cut it in half without the camera being turned on. And then the plan is to strip off the end of this, place out the wires, solder the wires into this guy, mount this guy into the bottom of the case, plug this into the power supply and voila. So here we go. OK, so connection one is done. Just like my other jobs, a little sloppy, but it'll do. Wow, that one was like probably my best one. OK, so I've electrical taped up my little thingy that I soldered together here. So hopefully that looks better for one and hopefully it works. That's what we're going to test now. And with a whole lot of hope. And it works. I was a little worried about that. OK. OK, OK, OK, moving on. All right. This is our fourth and final coat of primer. Then we have to do a layer of black. So I spray painted a bug onto the primer. OK, so it's all primed. We're ready to start painting as with basically everything else in this project. I have no idea what I'm doing, but we're going to start with black. So this guy is black, I believe Linus does know what he's doing when it comes to the paint stuff. But and he was supposed to show me, but he had to leave important business of some sort or something or other whatever. So, yeah, he's not here. So we're just going to wing it. That's probably way more black paint than I need. But as I have no idea, we're going to go with that. Now Linus said to roll down on this thing towards the paint after dipping it in the paint for two minutes. But I'm kind of assuming that he was exaggerating a little bit because he thought I wouldn't actually do it. I'm just going to go for like a while. OK, you have to look at this. So I just shoved two Ryobi batteries inside of the thing so that it wouldn't move when I press paint on it and they fit perfectly. So I think the two minutes of squeezing the paint out of it was a huge exaggeration. Oh my God, why is this so bad? And what is that pattern? When you take all the paint out of the brush, you need a lot of pressure behind it, apparently. So that's why it didn't work right away. Logitech has been in the headphone game for a really long time and it shows with the G633 Artemis Spectrum headset. The G633 is equipped with Logitech's 40mm Pro G audio drivers, 7.1 Dolby surround sound with Logitech gaming software, a cardioid boom mic, which hides away very nicely actually, fully adjustable RGB lighting and custom tags. They're available from a variety of retailers now, including Amazon. It will be a great holiday gift for your PC, Xbox or PS4 gamers. Or just a great pickup for yourself if you're looking for a new headset. Check them out in the link in the video description down below. Okay, so our first coat of black is done. Honestly, it looks pretty okay. There's definitely, definitely areas where it needs more paint, so we will definitely, definitely have to do another coat. But for now, we're gonna let it dry. So I'm going to take it inside so there's a little bit of a warmer climate. At this time of night in the unheated warehouse, it's like borderline too cold to even be painting. So I need to take it into the office so that it can actually kind of warm up so that it can dry.