 This video is brought to you by our trusted partner Intel. For a limited time only with the purchase of any unlocked Core i5 or Core i7 Intel CPU, get a free Intel beanie with a chance to win an Intel snowboard. Valid for Canadian and US customers only, some restrictions apply. For complete details, visit IntelGamingPromo.com. Welcome to a gaming build guide that we're doing here guys. So we've got a Silverstone TJ-10, a Silverstone Strider Gold Evolution 1000 Watt with their sweet braided cables that are actually using like a nylon rather than a plastic braid. So they're absolutely perfect in terms of not being able to see through to the cords, extremely durable, all that kind of good stuff. They look absolutely awesome. For liquid cooling, we're going to be going with a Swift Tech H220, but we're actually going to be expanding it. We're going to add a liquid cooled GTX 670 as well as a Black Ice Extreme single 120mm radiator, giving us a total of 3x120mm rads, one of which is a thick rad, as well as a liquid cooled 3770K and a liquid cooled GTX 660 in the same loop. So, sorry I said 660, I meant 670. We're also going with a Gigabyte Thunderbolt Ready Board, this is a Z77X UP5TH, so this is pretty much state of the art as far as features get, it actually has dual Thunderbolt ports. For memory, we're going to go with 16GB of Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400MHz memory, so this is just, I mean honestly, this is a showcase piece, we want it to look awesome. It's also got the blue light bars in it, so this is going to be a blue themed build, hence the use of blue LED fans for our radiators, as well as, ah yes, two Samsung 840 Pro, 256GB in RAID 0, and of course the centerpiece, the Silverstone TJ10, and we're pretty much ready to go. So this isn't going to be an exact step by step how to put CPU in socket, that kind of build guide, but it's just going to be kind of following along with us as we build up this sweet looking liquid cooled machine, oh yeah, we're using blue tubing as well. Now one of the first things we're going to do, because we have to expand our Swift Tech H220, is we're going to loosen, there you go, the included hose clamps, and we're actually going to drain the system completely and swap out the fluid for something else. So we're also going to swap out the tubing, because we don't have more of Swift Tech's black tubing on hand, and for our blue themed build we wanted to use blue tubing anyway. So step one is to loosen, there you go, that clamp, which holds the tubing in place. Now you want to, if you're going to reuse these clamps, you want to use 3 1⁄8 inch ID, 5 1⁄8 inch OD tubing, there you go, there's the Swift Tech Hydrex water that's inside. So we're going to take the whole thing apart, then what we're going to do to simplify the filling procedure for ourselves, is we are going to put it back together with all the additional components in the loop, we're going to kind of measure where the tubing is going to go, and then we're going to fill it, then we're going to put the whole assembled thing back into the system. This will allow us to fill it as thoroughly as possible without trapping any air bubbles in it. Now the plastic brackets that allow for a tool-less installation of 120mm fans, have to be removed from the top of the case, so you just take out the 8 screws here, here, here, and here, and then you can just pull those brackets out just like that. We're going to replace them with the rad support bracket that is available as an add-on for the TJ-09 and TJ-10 case from Silverstone. So we've made some changes now, we've actually gone ahead and we've figured out that we can mount the rad bracket directly to the fans, rather than mounting it to the rad as it says in the instructions. So this gives us the ability to use the reservoir that's built into the H220, which means we don't have to pre-assemble the loop if we don't want to, because we'll be able to pull it out, top it up, and then put it back in if the need should arise. So we can just go ahead and show you guys where this is going to go. So it screws in sort of here somewhere, something like that, there we go, just like that. So it's going to sit in the top, then our thick rad is going to go back here. We've also installed the power supply, I'm just going to pull this back out. So we've installed the power supply with its sleeving and we're trying to figure out what we're going to do in terms of cable management, because this case is a little bit dated and doesn't have the best cable management out there. Oh yeah, last thing, right. So this is an important step at this stage in the build, so you can see where the cables are running out of the fans. So you have to plan for, we're planning to plug all the fans into our motherboard. So this one's going to go here, this one's going to go here, the pump is going to go to the CPU fan, the rear fan is going to go to the bottom one here, and the front fan is going to go here. That way we can use the motherboard's utility to control all the fans in this system. So we ended up scrapping the Black Ice Xtreme, I remember what I hated about these radiators, and that's that the mounting holes are 120mm, but the actual radiator is quite wide, so we weren't able to fit it in our case. The bad news is that we had to use a thin radiator to replace it, and it's a bit of an older one, but I'm going to show you guys my magic trick for fixing beat up radiators. And Sharpie marker, and Sharpie marker, and Sharpie marker. It actually works surprisingly well, you have to look at it pretty close to realize that it's been touched up with a permanent marker. So there you go guys, there's Alain's tech tips for you, draw on your computer if there's anything about it that you don't like. It even works for little places where the fins are bent, you just throw some Sharpie in there, and it becomes a lot less noticeable. There you go, it just like disappears like that, it's awesome. We've also mounted the motherboard into the case, so there you go, that's what it's going to look like. This is for some kind of like server thing or something like that, once we get the black of the other side panel on there, it should look a little bit better, but I would have preferred if Silverstone had stuck with the older revision, which didn't have this hole in it, and I think that's pretty much our status update for now. Alright, so we're about to load our drives in, which is on these convenient rails with padding for anti-vibration, however we won't have to worry about that because we're using 2.5 inch drives on 3.5 inch adapters. Don't mind the OCZ adapters, the drives are Samsung still, so there we go. It clicks in just like that, and I'd also like to take a moment to show you guys our CPU block installation, so that's done. So these 3.8 inch tubes are going to route to this radiator, that radiator, and that GPU block. Also the cable management, although it's not perfect in this case because we're using individually sleeved cables, we did manage to get the 8-pin behind the motherboard and have it come up individually, so it's nice and thin back there and go behind the board. Also the 24-pin is going to look pretty decent right here, I think, and then we've got all of our front panel ones routed behind the motherboard tray in a bit of a tricky way, so I'm going to go ahead and flip this around so you guys can check it out. Oh, it's getting heavy already, wow. Okay, so there you go, so these have to come between this support brace here and the motherboard tray, then there's a little bit of room here because this support brace actually prevents you from routing cables across it. I would have liked for Silverstone to have somehow improved that, but there you go. So we did manage to get most of our cable routing done, and of course a sleeved modular power supply makes a really big difference because we only have to have these cables connected to it, which is going to keep the bottom much tidier than it would have otherwise been. We've actually disconnected quite a few of the cables here, so we're getting close to the end of our water cooling adventure. As with any liquid cooled build, you can make whatever plans you want, but a lot of the time you end up changing little things here or there. So we actually rotated the Swift Tech block. Hold on, which side is threaded on here? There we go, that's the threaded side. We rotated it 90 degrees so that we'd have our inlet on the top so that we could get an easier run to what will be the outlet on our reservoir, so that's going to go up above the dominators there. Then that also gives us a nice clean straight run from this guy to this guy. This one was really tight and was kind of hard to get in there, but overall I think it's going to look really, really sharp. So here we are putting our hose clamps down on the very base of the barb there, and then what we're going to do is we're going to grab the Swift Tech screws right here, and we're going to clamp those babies down. So those will look just black and stealthy with the included fittings on the radiator as well as the pump, and then we're using compressions on the other ones to make those ones look really clean as well. It looks like we actually haven't run that yet. Other than that, oh yeah, so we've routed the cables for the video card itself, so those are going to go here. Again, nice and stealth cables. We've also started cable tying things down to make them a little bit more clean, and we're getting really close to the end of this build here. The liquid cooling tubings have been routed, so you can see one of the things to be really careful of is when you're using these clamp, well these clamp clamps, you want to make sure only one side's threaded, so you want to make sure that you're going to be able to access it with the screwdriver. So we had to take the dominators out to get at the ones on the CPU block slash pump unit. We have some very tight runs here. I don't like to cross tubing in a liquid cooling build. It's just one of those faux pas type things where it doesn't quite look as clean, but I think overall it kind of worked in here because we do have very, very short runs, which is part of what makes a water cooling build look optimal as well. You want very, very short runs. I think the only things that I could complain about with this particular machine are maybe the short graphics card. I wish we had kind of a longer graphics card so it looked a bit more beastly, but other than that, I mean it's really, really, really sharp and I'm very, very pleased with it. So we're going to go ahead and fill it now. We did change our minds about filling it first, then putting the whole thing in. I'm glad we did because that did make it a little bit easier to deal with overall. So filling it is just going to involve taking out this rad and then setting up a power cord here so that we can power cycle in order to circulate water through the loop and then keep topping up the radiator as we go. We also still have to run SATA cables, but other than that, we're pretty much done. So guys, this is it. This is where we reveal what this project was actually for. Here's a little tour of our SteelSeries themed gaming den set. So we're going to be doing some SteelSeries unboxings, as you can probably tell, from all the boxes that are here. So we've got a bunch of cool stuff we've never looked at before, like some variations of the Siberia V2s, a new Sensei, as well as their Apex RAW. That's something I'm actually really excited to check out. We saw that for the first time at CES. I've also hinted on Twitter about this. So we actually got a SteelSeries vinyl wrapped custom gaming desktop sort of table here that I think is absolutely stunning. You can get this done for about $500 to get a custom printed vinyl and then have it wrapped around a table. If you can find someone you know who does it, which I think is just freaking sick. I mean, you don't have to put SteelSeries logos on it, but you can put whatever you want. It would just kind of actually look... It makes the overall desk look so much cooler. So right, so our rig is done. I meant to mention this before, but we never installed an optical drive because we intend to use an external optical drive for our optical needs because we don't really use it all that often. And then it's time to power it up. I'm going to add some more lighting effects still, but... Oh, I forgot to plug it in. But this is what it looks like for now, just with the dominator light bars in there, as well as some glow from the LED fans that are around the edges there. Can you see that okay? Try and get a little bit less glare, maybe from this angle a little bit. But yeah, overall I'm extremely pleased with this build. It's a wicked looking like gaming den build. And... Oh, is it still charging though? It's still recording. Oh, lol. Here, why don't we move that? Oh, we can't move it much. Okay, that was all the moving it. Alright, so that gives you guys a pretty good look at what it looks like inside. We've also got a really sweet glow coming out of the top grills here because those LED fans are right up against the grills and the rads are on the inside. If you wanted to see the finished insides, which I don't remember if I showed you in the last shot or not, it looks pretty good in there too. I know I said a lot about how the cable management of the TJ-10 isn't really optimal, but I think you guys will find that in spite of that, we ended up with a very, very clean looking interior, aided in a big way by these sleeved cables here that are available as an upgrade for the Strider 1000 Evolution. So, stunning build. Actually, this is a really good angle too from slightly over more that way. There you go. So, big thanks to Silverstone for helping us with this TJ-07 build, and I'm looking forward to bringing you guys lots of cool videos from our new SteelSeries Gaming Den. Don't forget to subscribe to Linus Tech Tips for more unboxings, reviews, and other computer videos.