 You've been doing a lot of waiting in 2017. Waiting for Ryzen 7 to launch, waiting for AMDizzle to address the issues that plagued the aforementioned Ryzen launch, and then waiting again for Ryzen 5. And that wasn't even the end of it. Let's face it. There has been a Ryzen learning curve for everyone. For developers, for AMD themselves, and especially for consumers. If only someone would make an easy step-by-step build guide so you could build the best possible Ryzen gaming rig at a great price. Corsair's Light Loop fans feature 16 independent LEDs in every fan and are engineered for low noise operation without sacrificing performance. Check them out at the link below. To start with, a safe, static-free workstation with an anti-static ankle strap is a must. Then, with me as always, are my multi-bit screwdriver, my magnetic parts tray, a pair of side cutters, a pair of needle-nose pliers, and a pair of pants. I'm just kidding about that last one. I don't wear pants when I build computers, and you don't have to either. Next, whether you're wearing pants or not, verify that your system posts or outputs to the display using your motherboard box as a free non-conductive test bench and your screwdriver to short out the power button pins like so. We've identified the Ryzen 5 1600 non-X variant as the best performance per dollar CPU in the Ryzen lineup for gaming. You'll be able to play most modern titles with slick settings without the CPU being a bottleneck, and right now it costs 20% less than the 1600X, while performing only 10% worse once you factor in the value of the included cooler. And, all Ryzen chips are unlocked for overclocking, so we can also show you how to get some extra mileage out of it if you're into that sort of thing. Hold the CPU by the edges and identify the corner with the gold triangle. Align that corner with the corner of the socket that also has a triangle. Lift up the retention arm, place the CPU into the socket with no force at all. It should just drop in. Then check to ensure the CPU is all the way in and lower the retention arm again. Now the Ryzen 5 1600 does come with an included Wraith cooler, which will be enough for anyone who's looking to run at stock speeds, but for the best overclocking experience, we recommend something a little beefier. Our Master Liquid Lite 120 from Cooler Master was only 40 bucks, it comes with an AM4 mounting bracket, and it should give us a little bit more overclocking headroom. Start by removing the rear case fan and setting it aside. Then use these long screws, put them through the back of the case, through the included fan, blowing towards the back, and with the fan lead pointed up, and then screw them into the radiator. This way it's easier to clean your rad if it gets clogged up with dust. Next, remove the plastic film, keeping an eye out for any residue that will need to be removed with alcohol before proceeding. Then attach these AM4 compatible brackets to the block like so, before placing a brown rice grain sized dollop of the included thermal paste on the top of the CPU. Finally, hook each end over the motherboard's included mounting heads, firmly tighten the thumb screws, and plug the fan lead into the white header here. Your pump can go into the optional black header that's right next to it. The RAM decision is a little more complicated on Ryzen than you might be used to, but to sum it up, you can expect the best results when running a dual channel configuration, that means two or four DIMMs, and at frequencies of at least 2666 megahertz with 3200 megahertz recommended for the best performance. As for the cast latency, there are no special considerations for Ryzen here, but lower is better. We chose two 8 gig sticks of Corsair's Vengeance LPX 3000 megahertz RAM, which is a good balance of price and performance, and happens to be on AMD's list of supported memory. Pull back the tabs on the two gray RAM slots, then position each DIMM so the notch on the bottom lines up with the notch in the socket. Then press firmly until the tabs on the ends snap back into place on their own. You can repeat this procedure if you have an additional kit, but as always, a two DIMM configuration is recommended for better stability. For our case, we chose the ever-popular P400S from Phanteks' Eclipse line. The P400S is $10 more than the P400, but comes with Ssssssssss sound dampeners on all of the panels, a 3ssssssssssssssss speed fan controller button on the front, and top cover ssssssssssssssssssss should you choose not to exhaust air out the top of the case. Another $10 can be ssssssssaved by eschewing the sssssssssexy tempered glass as acrylic window and solid-body designs are also available, but everyone knows tempered glass gives you more FPSssssssssssssssss Okay, I'm sorry. I'll stop that now. Pull the tempered glass side panel off and use two hands to stash it back in the box for safekeeping. You can set the thumb screws aside with the rest of the included hardware. Next, remove the opposite side panel by removing these two screws and sliding the panel towards the rear. This case offers lots of options for airflow with air filters on the top, front, and bottom panels, but we're going to focus on pulling air in from the front of the case and exhausting it out the back. The front panel has space for three 120 millimeter fans or two 140s, so we're going to use both of the cases included fans to draw air in here. An AMD Ryzen CPU can be paired with any one of four chipsets. X370 is the top-end one with support for SLI and is the one used by the ASUS X370 Pro, our motherboard of choice. But Linus, this is a bang for your buck build. Why didn't you get a performance tier B350 board like the ASUS Prime B350 for half the price? It would still be overclockable and only has two fewer PCIe lanes than this one. Well my friends, that was a very long question, but you definitely could do that. The thing is we wanted to benchmark our system in both single graphics card and SLI configurations to see how they stack up from a performance per dollar standpoint. So we'll provide parts lists for both options at the end of the video. Press firmly on the four corners of the motherboard shield until they snap into place. Then our case has integrated ATX motherboard standoffs, so all we need to do is hold the motherboard by the heatsink and set it in place like so before using the cases included M3 screws to fasten it down. Pro tip, if you went with a modular power supply, plug the 8-pin power connector in now to make your life a little easier later on. Also, now's the time to do the front power and reset switches and the drive activity LED here as well as front USB 3 here and audio over here. To power our rig we chose the EVGA Supernova 650 G2. It's fully modular for a clean look, it's gold-certified, and you can find one for under a hundred bucks. If you're opting to use just one graphics card though, instead of SLI, you could get away with a 500 watt non-modular power supply like this one for just over half the price. The power supply basement in our case is a little cramped, so we're going to connect all of our cables while the power supply is still free. You'll need the 8-pin connector that you ran before, the 24-pin connector that goes in here, one or two VGA cables that you'll route through here, and a SATA cable that you can leave hanging out the back here. Slide the power supply into its cage with the fan facing down. It'll draw fresh air in through the bottom air filter and exhaust it out the rear of the chassis. Then, fasten the power supply in place using the included 632 screws. When it comes to storage there are a couple of different approaches to getting the best value. On the lower end, hybrid solutions can be great, but a Seagate Hybrid Drive is a little basic for the budget that we targeted here, and Optane is not available for AMD at this time. So, we went with a Western Digital Blue internal SSD. This one here happens to have a terabyte of space, but it's for illustrative purposes only. The 250 gig skew at under a hundred bucks is probably your best bet. Then, for another $50, you can get another terabyte of hard drive space for your Steam library, if that spins your platters. Slide the SSD sled upward to detach it from the case. Then, mount the SSD by screwing four of these fasteners through the side of the sled. Connect the SATA power cable that you left hanging before, and then route the data cable through this grommet, attaching the right angle end to the motherboard. For graphics, we're using one or two EVGA Super Clock II GTX 1070s. Now, you wouldn't know it by the confusing name, but SUPER CLOCK II is in the middle of EVGA's product lineup with higher bass and boost clock frequencies compared to stock, and their smarter ICX cooler to save some power. So, if you're into overclocking, a higher-bend card like this will tend to overclock a touch better. So, start by removing the case's PCI Express slot covers, and aligning the first graphics card carefully with both the motherboard's PCIe slot and the slots on the case. Making sure that the tab on the PCIe slot is open, push the card in firmly until the tab snaps shut, then put the case screws back in. Do this again for the second card, if applicable, and plug the PCI Express power connectors that we cable managed earlier. Now, we chose to run two cables, one to each card to avoid using unsightly adapters. If this is a huge concern for you, and you went for the modular power supply option, you could get a cable mod cable kit, but it would add some cost. Finally, again if applicable, grab the SLI bridge from your motherboard box, and connect the two video cards together. Orientation doesn't matter. If you have an extra 35 bucks in your pocket, you can give your rig a facelift by investing in a high bandwidth SLI bridge like this one. Just don't expect much of a performance bump. Cable management shouldn't be a big problem here. The motherboard tray and the side panel are both completely opaque, so whatever mess you make will be hidden. The case comes with Velcro straps to pin everything down, inline clips to hold your fan leads, and you can even use the SSD sled to pin cables to the inside edge. For the keyboard and mouse, we're showing off our system with the wallet-friendly Neon K51 and M57 from Rosewill, but realistically, you can use any keyboard and mouse you want. Maybe check out one of our recent budget peripheral roundups right up there for more options. As for the monitor, we're suggesting something along the lines of the Acer XFA 240. It's 144Hz, so you'll be able to take advantage of one or even two of these graphics cards. Also, it's only around 200 bucks. Now on any newer platform, it's important to download the latest UEFI BIOS from the manufacturer's website and flash your motherboard using a USB drive. Our next step then is to use Microsoft's tool to create a bootable USB drive, and then reboot the system while mashing F8 immediately. My keyboard's invisible. To get to the boot device selection menu, where you'll pick your drive. Once the Windows setup process has begun, it's basically just a matter of hitting next until you land on the desktop. Once there, you can get the latest drivers for your chipset, audio, networking, etc. off the ASUS website, then head over to NVIDIA's page for the latest graphics drivers. Speaking of graphics, how does she game? Well, pretty darn well. Except I may have lost the, like I'm not going to use the word argument. Let's go with debate that I had with James when I said we should include SLI if we're trying to get the absolute best FPS per dollar. Because barely any of our test titles benefited in any significant way, though it should be noted that scaling was better at 4K resolution. So ultimately, whether one or two is best for you is going to depend on what you're playing and how. Most people are going to stick with the cheaper version of the build. So putting it all together though, we're coming at just over $2,000 for the SLI version, including everything, all the peripherals and all that. And $1438 for the non-SLI version on account of the cheaper motherboard and power supply, and of course one less graphics card. And then finally, if you already have a monitor and peripherals, the tower alone is $1165 for what is based on our benchmarks, a fantastic gaming experience. Not bad. iFixit is all about taking stuff apart and teaching people how to fix things. They have tons of free guides available on their site over at ifixit.com, and they've got the tools that you need to make it happen. Their ProTech Toolkit is now only $60 with tons of great features, including their 64-bit driver kit, a wide variety of safe opening tools, they've got their suction cups to pull displays apart, they've got their rubber-handled Jimmy Pry tool, metal spudgers, ESD safe tweezers, and a safety strap, and all of it is backed by their lifetime guarantee. So why pay somebody to fix your devices when you can spend often less to get the tools you need to fix them for yourself forever? 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