 Welcome to a totally normal and standard PC build guide here on Linus Tech Tips sponsored by Intel and featuring the Core i7 9700k today we're gonna get started by wait wait wait. What are you doing? Wait what Did my camera operator and I merge I Guess that's okay People enjoy watching all kinds of content on the internet from a POV perspective. Oh, all right. Well, let's get started then As always when building a PC we need a safe clutter-free Antistatic workstation with all the tools that we're gonna need so we've got a magnetic parts tray a knife a pair of side cutters Needle nose pliers thermal compound cable ties and of course as always a Standard multi-bit screwdriver first thing we're gonna do is get ourselves static safe. So we're gonna open up our power supply here Then we're gonna flip the switch to the off position and plug it in that way the chassis grounded So whenever we move our feet We're gonna go ahead and touch that in order to dissipate any static that's built up on our bodies For extra points use an anti-static strap like this one for my fix it Just put the alligator clamp on a metal part of your plugged in power supply and the other end either on your wrist or As I prefer to do it on your ankle this way is great because Then this strap isn't getting in your way while you're trying to build the next thing we're gonna need is a motherboard So we'll start by clearing some space on our ESD safe work, man We've gone with the Asus Prime Z 390p because our goal is to build a high performance gaming system But without wasting any money on unnecessary gimmicks, so we're gonna need our IO shield for later We're going to need the motherboard itself But not this baggie so we can go ahead and leave that behind We're going to need these little screws for installing our SSD and finally We're going to need a SATA cable which would be in the box if it was new, but we've used this motherboard before I always like using the motherboard box as an additional test bench because it keeps it up off any debris that might be on my work surface and If you don't have an anti static work surface well it acts as one of those for our CPU as I've mentioned before we've gone with the core i7 9700 K unlike the 9900 K it doesn't have hyper threading but for gaming given that it already has eight cores We're not really gonna need this it boosts up to 4.9 gigahertz and because it's a K series chip It's unlocked so we can do a little bit of overclocking should we see fit Let's go ahead and install it step one is to push down the lever pull it out and then The retention plate should move out of your way, then we're going to see this little golden triangle here We're going to line that up with the dot at the corner of the socket on some motherboard manufacturers That'll actually also be a triangle When we're putting it in it's really important to apply no force at all You're just kind of dropping it in in exactly the right spot I recommend giving it a little wiggle to make sure that it's firmly in place Next we're going to drop this plate down making sure that it stays clear of this little screw right here Then we go ahead and lower the arm Pull it out and put it under the retention mechanism this plate should pop off on its own We're going to hold on to that putting it inside the box for our motherboard Because in the event that we need to return our motherboard to the manufacturer later We will need to send it with this installed For our memory we've gone with a nice low latency DDR4 3200 kit from G.Skill We went with 16 gigs of RAM in an 8 gig by 2 configuration This gives us dual channel operation for better performance and gives us plenty of expansion for the future So we could go up to 32 gigs with no problems When you're lining up the memory make sure you carefully check the position of the notch So you can see here that I need to flip this around in order for it to fit in the slot correctly Pull back the tabs remember this side probably won't pull back on modern motherboards Line it up and Then push firmly from both sides until you hear a click on each end Now it's time to install our m.2 SSD We're using a 512 gig 760p series from Intel, but the instructions would be the same regardless First you're going to want to find the m.2 slot on your motherboard We've actually got two here one right here one right here. Oh, okay strictly correct There is a third one, but you can see this one is quite short and it's actually marked right there It's intended for a Wi-Fi card next we're just going to hold our SSD up to it and see that yep Okay, this is an 80 millimeter model. So that's where we're going to want to install our mounting post Remember that bag I showed you guys before this has two pieces in it one of them Is a male and female threaded mounting post There we go. Let's have a look at that so you can see it screws into the motherboard there And then has a screw into the top of it there and the other is a little tiny screw for securing the drive You're unlikely to end up using a lot of force when you install your SSD. So just hand tight on this is fine As for the drive itself it installs just like laptop memory So you go up at an angle push it into the slot And then just hold it down in place while you're screwing it in something to watch out for here guys Is that while most computer screws are size 2 Phillips? These are usually size 1 so you're probably going to need to change your bit before you finish installing So that's done, but I do have a couple more notes about m.2 installation on our board Both of the slots were easily accessible, but that's not always the case some other boards will have m.2 slots Actually on the back of them. This is a space saving feature and in some cases even if they are on the front They're going to be covered by a heat spreader or a shroud So you may actually need to remove screws in order to find them those heat spreaders are actually optional They don't tend to help the drive dissipate a ton more heat than if they're just Exposed and maybe have some incidental airflow from the case But what they do do is they don't have a lot of heat to them Some incidental airflow from the case, but what they do do is they'll act as an absorber of heat like a heat buffer If your drive only sees intensive use from time to time now, let's turn our attention to cooling We've gone with the Noctua nhu 12s for its great balance of reliability performance cost and of course Silence, but if you're not planning on doing any overclocking you can of course save a buck by going with something a little bit less expensive Actually, if you want to save a buck and still get the same performance You could just get the non-black one, but this is the LTT edition So there was no way that we weren't going to go with that Every cooler's installation is going to vary slightly in the details But with this video and of course the included documentation you shouldn't have any trouble with it First up we're going to need our back plate The orientation of this is pretty easy to figure out once you know the guiding principles Just check for where the centered hole is And align it like so Flip this back around whenever you handle your motherboard be careful to handle it by the edges or metal components or plastic connectors That way you're never actually touching the PCB and putting your greasy skin oils on it Next because every cpu socket has a slightly different profile. We're going to need these four spacers This ensures that we don't have either too much or too little mounting pressure once our cooler is installed The orientation we use to install our mounting bars is going to determine which way our cooler ends up facing So we can either install it with the fan blowing upward making use of the exhaust at the top of our case Or we can install it with the fan blowing towards the back of our system where the IO is And make use of the pre-installed fan at the rear of our case We're going for a front to back airflow configuration. So i'm going to prefer to put it this way That means our mounting bars are going to go like this Please note the curved side goes out Regardless of which spacers or back plates you're using these four thumb nuts are going to hold the mounting bars in place We won't need most of the rest of these accessories but there are a couple of things in the common parts bag that might come in handy These little wire clips allow you to install a second fan on your cooler if you'd like The low noise adapter caps the maximum rpn of the included fan if you want an extremely quiet experience Case batch and of course the thing we were actually after thermal compound It's actually harder than you'd think to apply too much thermal compound at least from a performance perspective You can definitely make a mess So on a mainstream cpu like this one that has a relatively small integrated heat spreader I'd recommend about yay much and remember if you're not sure you can always install your cooler Give it a little smooshy smooshy and then take it off That way you'll know if you have the right amount As you can see we pretty much nailed that the entire ihs is covered And there's no gooped out part along the edge of the cpu I guess we got ahead of ourselves a little bit there though So to install the cooler you're going to need to take the fan off because otherwise there's no way to screw this in here So you just go ahead and pull these clips back And the fan should come off a little something like that I recommend lining up one of the screws in exactly the right spot maybe give it like a Half-time Three-quarter turn so that it's locked in place and then go ahead and line the other one up on the post There you go once they're both caught don't crank one all the way down and then start on the other one I usually like to go until I feel kind of a bit of resistance And then go kind of past that point on the other side Then a little more over here That's stopped And all the way down over here There we go. Once they both hit their stoppers, you're going to know that the mounting pressure is correct. Nice little smooshy smooshy Then we can go ahead and install our fan. So when you're putting on the fan Watch where the cable for the fan is coming off because you're going to want it to be somewhat close To wherever the CPU fan connector is on your motherboard in our case It's this one right here and this one's for an AIO pump. So we're going to go ahead and install it right a little something like that We're going to try and install it evenly There you go Lining up the fan with the top of the heatsink there And we just pull these back On to the retention sort of notches on the cooler just like that Yep, that looks even Now we take our fan We can tie it in a little knot so that it'll take up any extra slack that we have We'll run that under there And see if we can See if we can hit that. Yep. There it is Now we'll just tuck that away so we don't have to look at it Get in there Get in there Yeah There Ooh That is nice and clean Looking good Now you might not have noticed but as we've been going I've been putting away all the extra accessories and packaging for the parts that we finished up with That's for a very good reason A, it means that you don't have to clean up all that stuff at the end And B, it keeps our workspace nice and tidy So we're less likely to knock something onto the floor and lose it or make a mistake We chose Corsair's 460X RGB because A, it looks kind of nice Which is always great when you're making a video about something And B, it's got a pretty standard layout compared to most modern cases Side panels, regardless of whether they're tempered glass Always go back in the box until we're ready for them later That way you can avoid scratching them So if we look in here We've got a bottom mounted power supply In this case with a shroud Standard ATX layout Front intake here with filter And then we're exhausting out the top or the back I think this case has been used before I'm not sure if these fans are normally pre-installed up there But don't worry about it Minor details, we'll get it all sorted out As I'm removing pre-installed screws Hold on, I'm just gonna throw this back in here I always like to use the case foam in between the case panels So they don't rub up against each other There we go You'll note that I'm taking all the screws I'm removing from the case And putting them into my magnetic parts tray If you don't trust yourself to remember where everything came from Here's a nice little pro tip Right panel Boop, see? And they'll stay exactly where I put them I tend to try to do some basic organization Before I even start putting anything into the case So here I'm just taking off the wire management clip that was pre-installed on my front panel connections I can also scout the layout of my board And make sure that anything that I can is already pre-run to where it needs to go So USB 3 is either down here on the bottom edge Or over here on the right When I can get away with it, I actually do prefer to use this one I find it not as ugly looking Oh right, for those who aren't familiar This is what the USB 3 connection looks like You can see it's actually keyed on one side And then on the other side, it's actually a little bit more So here I'm just taking off the wire management clip that was pre-installed on my front panel connections I can also scout the layout of my board And make sure that anything that I can is already pre-run to where it needs to go So USB 3 is either down here on the bottom edge Or over here on the right When I can get away with it, I actually do prefer to use this one I find it not as ugly looking Oh right, for those who aren't familiar This is what the USB 3 connection looks like You can see it's actually keyed on one side And then there's one blank pin That corresponds to the key on the slot And of course, the blank pin on the slot Right there Now there are just two more things that we can pre-run before we install the motherboard Any integrated RGB So in this case, we've got a lighting controller that actually does not just RGB But also speed control for our included fans As well as a hub for it Including a SATA power connector That's already close enough to our power supply That's a perfectly good spot for it And of course, our fans Now, I did say before That we were going to reposition those So why don't we go ahead and do that Now strictly speaking, there was nothing wrong With our all exhaust configuration At the top and the back With a filtered intake But, we're going to be using a pretty power hungry graphics card here So being able to put some fresh air across it Is definitely going to be an advantage Especially when you consider that modern graphics cards Do get better Performance When they have better cooling So I'm going to take one of my two fans Run the cables through the bottom here And I'm going to install it as an intake fan Here along the bottom That will cool my hard drive As well as throw some fresh air over to the power supply area As for my second one I'm going to go ahead and put that one Right here And I'm going to run my cables through this hole Right about here Now we need to pop off the front panel On a lot of cases This involves just grabbing the bottom of it And giving it a sharp yank But on this one, you've actually got to unscrew these Now we take off the magnetic filter Get our screws back We've got these slots Rather than just holes So if we wanted to make slight adjustments to their location We'd be able to do that You might notice that your fan screws are a little harder to put in Than other ones That's normal But what they're actually doing is They're shredding the plastic as they go through it Let's throw our filter back on What I'm doing right now with the fans Is I'm untangling the wires I'm making it so that my RGB wires And my power wires Aren't crossing each other Because the RGB ones Are both going to go to the same place Down over here And the bottom right And power is actually going to come up Across here And over here This is really important Before you install your motherboard You're going to want to scout out Where the fan power connectors are on the board Now I like to see them along the bottom edge here Or the right bottom edge here That makes it particularly easy to install bottom Or front fans Unfortunately, this board being more of a Value option Has the fan connections right here And then There was one more, it's labeled AIO pump And we can still put a fan there So our rear fan, we're actually going to plug into this one And then our two front fans We're going to plug into these two Unfortunately, that means our cable management Is a little bit trickier Because we don't want to just drag them all the way across the board So we're going to go under the motherboard And then up over here for a nice short little run That's why I'm running these guys Right over here While I'm trying anyway Get in there Now it's time to install the motherboard And to do that, we're going to need the AIO shield first I always recommend checking these Before you put them in the case And making sure that the tabs on the back here Are bent up enough to allow the port through Otherwise, they can actually stick Into the port, short them out, and even fry them So we're going to do a quick sanity check Make sure we've got it oriented correctly Yeah, that all looks fine Now We install it into the back of the case By lining it up Then pressing on each corner in turn Once it's in, they shouldn't move around anymore at all The last thing we need to check Is whether the correct standoffs are installed In our case This one is pretty good It's actually got the nine standard ATX ones Pre-installed, including one of these handy little nubbin ones That'll hold the board in place for you while you're screwing in the rest of them But, that's not always the case Sometimes you'll have just these six Other times it'll have M-ATX standoffs Pre-installed, and that's the most dangerous one Because if you've got an extra standoff Scratching along the back of your board It can actually cut these traces, destroying your motherboard And you will not get warranty coverage for that To double check this We just pick up the board Handle it by the edges, plastic connectors Back plates Whatever else you can get a firm grip on I really like holding onto the CPU cooler Because, assuming you've got one with a decent mounting mechanism That's a really, really secure Handhold for it As you lower in the board I like to have it at about a 10 to 15 degree angle as I'm sliding it Towards the back of the case That helps me avoid those tabs that I mentioned before And also prevents us from Scraping the back of the board along any standoffs That might or might not be In the right spots Now we're going to use that little nubbin to hold it in place And look through every hole And make sure that we can see exactly the number of Standoffs that we're expecting to see You can actually see here That our board doesn't need these three It's a little bit slimmer than standard ATX For bonus points, we could Remove these from the case, but Because they're not actually Touching the back of the board, there's no safety Reason to do it, so I'm just going to leave them Now that we know that's all good, I'm actually just going to pop it out again And then I'm going to prewire up My top fans here That way I can ensure that my runs Are nice and tight and clean There we go, not bad, right? Let's go ahead and screw the board in Motherboard screws, and any additional Standoffs you might need, are always included In the hardware that comes with your case We're going to be using these 632 thread Button heads right here And if you're ever not sure if you've got the right thing You can always just hand thread one in And as long as it goes easily You'll know that you're not going to cross thread it Don't wrench too tight on these guys Once you start to meet resistance Give it maybe another 16th of a turn Maybe an 8th of a turn That's it And look at that, it's in Now I know what you guys are thinking Great! Now the motherboard's in We can put the graphics card in No, no Now actually on this motherboard The graphics card would interfere with surprisingly Few other things that we need to plug in But still, it does make our lives easier If we go ahead and plug all the things That we can into our motherboard first So let's do our USB 3.0 connector now These have very fragile pins So you want to get it positioned just right Before applying pressure You should hear a small click And we can go ahead and run the rest of that cable Around behind Woo, nice Don't try and bend this too tight guys If you bend this off your board then it's dead You can go ahead and run that Rear fan power connector here You can see I'm putting a 3-pin fan connector On a 4-pin header That's fine, just kind of aim to the right Front panel audio looks just like a USB connector Except that instead of having a blanked out pin At the very end It's second to the end So we're going to go ahead and find somewhere to route that This one here seems pretty good And then we want to bring that through There we go Right at the very Bottom right from the back And then that's bottom left from the front Because on most motherboards these days That's where the header is So we're going to go ahead and run that And then most motherboards these days That's where the header is for it So we just find the blanked out pin there Line it up and Bippity boppity There it is We actually don't have front USB 2 on this case But if we did it would plug in in the same fashion Right there One of the pickiest parts of building a modern computer Is of course the front panel lights and switches Now in a perfect world I'd love to bring these up right Underneath where the front panel header is Unfortunately I'm stuck with either bringing it up through here Or bringing it through over here So I guess I'm going to go this route So I guess I'm going to go this route If you're stuck with exposed wires One of my favorite old tricks is to Put them in a little braid So I'm just going to treat two of them as one With that out of the way we can have a look at where everything goes Lots of modern motherboards actually have them labeled But there are a few general rules you can follow The positive pin tends to be Towards the left So here we can do our hard drive LED Which is the bottom left one First, positive pin Swoop to the left Next up is our power LED On many cases these will be separated into individual pins Because some motherboards have them right next to each other Others have a gap This board actually has both options You can either put them right next to each other here Or have a gap there I tend to just put them right above my Hard drive LED Now our reset switch goes on the bottom Right next to our hard drive LED This one doesn't have a positive wire indicated That's because it doesn't matter It's just going to short those two wires Same with the power switch which goes right above that Now it's time to... no I'm just kidding Put in the hard drive Now there's about as many hard drive mounting Mechanisms as there are stars in the sky So There's going to be some variation here But I can give you guys a few general rules Corsair is using a sled based design here You can actually see there's holes Right here if you had a 2.5 inch drive Like a SATA SSD And then they use a tool-less mechanism To screw into... well not screw into Just poke into the holes on the side of the hard drive So you're either going to have some kind of Sled based system that screws into the bottom Or the sides Or it tool-lessly does The aforementioned Now we go ahead and slide this in Until it clicks Next we grab a SATA data cable So this will be in your motherboard box You can see there's a locking mechanism On one side and it's in like a little Kind of L shape That little point goes down On the drive You can just check the keying and make sure it's correct on there Put it until it clicks We can go ahead and run this up here And then over to the corresponding Connector on our motherboard Another thing that varies wildly From one case maker to another Is the installation method of these Bottom shrouds You can see here that I'm not going to be able to Install my power supply without removing it first So on this particular Corsair case We're going to need to take out This here thumb screw That holds it in place Actually that one might need to go too Give me a second here Nope, that's the one And this one can Slot out There we go That gives us a good look at the Filtered intake for our power supply As well as the mounting holes Here at the back Since we're done handling most of the ESD sensitive Components of our build We can go ahead and just Put that somewhere, doesn't really matter And install our power supply now I'm going to go fan side down because this case Has lots of space on the underside To draw in fresh air And you know I'm going to be a Smart responsible computer owner And not put it down on a carpet For some reason there are screws in the back of this Power supply, that is not normal You will find the mounting screws in the power supply box Now as we're putting it in We can just place it down Push towards the motherboard And then slide into the back of the case You might notice at the back That there are going to be some extra mounting holes here That you're not using That's normal, that's in case you want to mount Your power supply in the other orientation Personally I can't think of too many reasons To do it that way in a case like this Unless maybe you wanted to use your power supply fan As an exhaust fan If you had a heat generating component down like right here Or something, but generally speaking This is the way you want to go Your power supply cables are usually Found inside a little baggy In the power supply box Here are the modular cables we're going to need for our build Starting with the 24 pin So called for its 24 pins At least on this side So the split connector, that's for the power supply end And this is going to go into our motherboard See this little clip right here That corresponds to That little clip On the side there This does require a little bit of force So if you can, I would recommend Putting a little bit of backwards pressure on the back of the motherboard We're going to go ahead and run this Through our cable management grommets Next up, we've got our 8 pin EPS connector You can tell the difference between This one and an 8 pin PCI express connector In a couple of ways One is that if it splits apart It'll split into 4 and 4 Instead of 6 and 2 And the second way is that Many PCI express connectors Actually have the Gap between two of the pins Bridged I think it's these ones here So there's still a little gap Because it's a 6 plus 2, but Hey, whatever, there you go Also, sometimes they helpfully label it CPU So this one goes Right about here Again, clips to hooks Until it clips into place I find the best way to cable manage this one Is Yeah Over above the motherboard Where it'll then go Down the back Until it reaches the power supply For PCI express The type of cables you want to use Is going to depend on your graphics card We're using an RTX 2080 that has an 8 pin And a 6 pin power connector So unfortunately On our modular power supply All of them are 6 plus 2s So we're going to end up with an extra Couple of pins that we're going to have to tuck away somewhere But the good news is that we can use a single cable To run up to it So our graphics card is going to go in our top PCI express slot That's the one that is Electrically 16x Which means we're going to go ahead and run This bad boy Let's say right around there That'll give us a nice Straight shot over to it Now you can run it up through the basement We can have a look at that later, but I personally prefer This cable management to that way Finally, we're going to need SATA power for both our hard drive As well as our integrated RGB Controller. This one plugs into the drive With the little tear drop down Just like the data connector did Once again though guys, please do be careful This is a fragile connector, push it straight in There we go And then the second one Is actually going to plug into Right here our RGB hub Just like that With all of our cables installed We can turn our attention to routing them optimally So what I've done here is I've found the RGB connector for my top fan So that's going to go into RGB controller slot number 2 Just like that Then my bottom fan I'm going to use slot 1 That way if I want to apply any effects in IQ Or whatever the case may be I'll be able to go from 1 to 2 To 3 That's my 3 RGB fans that I've got installed I'm going to take my power connector for this I'm just going to tuck it back here So that I've still got enough space There we go That my side panel is going to fit on Make sure I don't put any pressure on that SATA data connector It's always important to Watch out where you route your 24 pin connector This is the biggest Python of a cable in a typical computer So if you just run it here, you can see You're not going to be able to close the side panel So what we want to do is run it Kind of down and across Spots where we have a wide enough Gap We can store any excess down in the basement Since conveniently our case has a nice covered basement We can run our graphics cable down there as well Let's try not to cross our cables here That way they'll lay down flatter And then now We can go ahead and tie some of these down It's fairly typical To find disposable cable ties like these In the packaging for your power supply Or your case, or both If you want to bind together a bigger bundle I would recommend getting some of these Velcro ties We actually have our own available LTTstore.com I always love it when cases include these nice little Loops for wire management Costs basically nothing to implement And is a huge Extra convenience when you're trying to build on them The key to a decent, but not too Time consuming cable management job Is just making sure that none of your wires Are crossing over each other Alright That looks serviceable to me So now we're going to go ahead and finish up with the connections On the other end of our power supply I find it easiest in these cases to work from The back, towards the front So that's our 6 plus 2 pin For the graphics card Here's our 8 pin for the CPU One nice thing about a modular Power supply guys is that you can Pre-install these on the power supply If you find it difficult to get it then after the fact We can go ahead and do our 24 pin now Move that SATA connector out of the way Swoomp Finally we've got our little 6 pin for SATA That goes here Or really any of these spots On this end of things, pretty much if it fits Then it sits We'll start by taking out the two PCI slot covers That are just below The 16x slot that we're going to use To install our graphics card So you can see what I mean by below here Right? So not this one These two Most modern graphics cards Have a double Wide backplate, this accommodates additional I.O. and also just the thicker coolers That they generally need Now it's not strictly Speaking necessary, but we can prepare the slot By moving that tab back And then we're going to hold our card on both ends Because we're going to want to apply even pressure As we're pushing it down into the case I find it easiest To line up the I.O. first, and you can always Double check that by looking down this side You know you want to make sure, a couple little things Like these tabs aren't sticking through here Because then they won't go in And things like that, and if all of that looks Reasonably well aligned Then you flip back around to this side Look through these gaps, if you can see The holes, it's probably in the right spot And then finally, check to make sure That that back tab on the card there Is seated correctly All looks good to me And that's it If this locks back into place Which it seems that it has Then your card is installed Let's go ahead and put the screws in Something to watch out for here guys Is some cases Don't accommodate screwdrivers Very well, you can see mine doesn't fit here Do yourself a favor Start it with your thumbs And then finish it off with the screwdriver That way you can make sure that you don't Accidentally cross thread it Now we'll go ahead and throw in Our PCI express connectors, you can see these 6 plus 2's can be a little bit tricky They've got a little kind of Block there, that makes it so that If you put that under right there You can push the whole thing in And the two pins won't accidentally slip out So we'll go ahead and, these are Not super flexible, some power supplies Improve their efficiency In sort of a I don't know, you could call it a bit of a hacky way By putting capacitors in the cables You can see this is one that does that It tends to make the cables a little bit less flexible Get a nice little orange accent on there LTTstore.com Oh, one more thing guys GPU sag is An issue where the kind of Back end of the graphics card can tend to Sag down because it's only really Anchored at this side and then through the slot And that's one of the reasons that I like Putting my PCI express cables Over here, up through the top Because the stiffness of these cables and if you Cable manage them nice and tight, they can give it a little bit of support And keep it from kind of You know, looking like it's falling out Let's go ahead and throw our basement shroud back in place This one's just held in place by clips So we're just going to line those up and slide towards the back Looking good And then the second one Is a combination of clips And then that screw And now we are Shockingly close to being ready for testing We can go ahead and put our filter back on the Top of the case We can grab our front panel And reinstall that And we are pretty much ready To test it out So we'll go ahead and plug in a network cable Keyboard and mouse Display port to our monitor There we go Any one of these is fine Then finally your power supply, power cable goes in Don't forget to flip this to the on position guys Otherwise you might go to Press the button for the Moment of truth And uh, nothing will happen It's not a bad looking little system, eh? To do it over again I'd probably move that rear fan to the front It's a little unbalanced looking But from a cooling perspective This configuration is perfectly fine So I'm just mashing delete here To get into the UEFI BIOS And look at that Everything looks normal, 9700K All 16 gigs of RAM are showing It's not running at full speed though So we're going to press F7 to go into Advanced mode, go to AI tweaker And what the hey Let's see if our XMP profile Manages to do a thing here Oh that's interesting I don't think that's the kit of memory I had intended to use I thought it was a 3200 CL14 kit Do I have Two mismatched sticks in here? Oops, these are not matching sticks One moment please Oh no Alright Let's see 16 gig CL14 That's difficult That's better Throw our Windows install USB In here, so then now that everything Looks correct in here We're just going to go over to boot Use boot override To boot to our USB stick That we've preloaded with Windows 10 And press enter Then we basically just follow the prompts Now that Windows is all installed We're going to get Asus' Q installer Thing that shows up We don't want any of these utilities Probably And we're going to go ahead and install The drivers. While we wait for that We can head over to Nvidia.com Go to the GeForce driver section Select RTX 20 Series This doesn't really matter but whatever There you go. And then we're going to Select the DCH drivers Now that all of our Asus drivers Are done and we've rebooted We can go ahead and install the Nvidia drivers that we downloaded earlier While you're installing drivers Is actually a great time to pop into The task manager and see if your CPU is Turboing correctly because it tends to be a One or two threaded application So we were Turboing up to around 4.6 4.7, 4.8 GHz About what we'd expect Now that we've got all our drivers installed though We can make sure that The system is performing as we would Expect. So I'm going to go ahead and fire up Cinebench R20. This isn't The be all and end all of benchmarks But what it will do is tell us what our CPU Is turboing to and if our performance Is within the range that we'd expect For the CPU model we have All eight threads are clearly running. CPU Sizzles at 100% and we are turboing To a nice healthy 4.57 GHz Our fans did kick up a little bit But everything is well within reason If they were louder than we'd like What we could do is install Asus' fan control Software and set a custom curve on it though You can see we exceeded our Short term boost limit So we're sitting at around 4.25 GHz Still pretty healthy I also want to know if my graphics card Is behaving normally So let's just do some firmware Okay So obviously that wasn't A full computer burn in suite Or anything but What we know now is at least No artifacts or anything Yep it's probably good enough That we can at least close up the side panels Alright Now all that's left is Years and years of Gaming and check this out guys We are getting in excess of 250 frames per second In CSGO with everything Basically cranked Man that is some good realism right there It's so realistic I could not Oh Ow That was weird Wait was that whole thing Just a dream? It couldn't have been Because here's the computer We built Thanks for watching guys Hope you enjoyed our POV PC build guide Massive shout out to Intel For sponsoring this video and of course Our other hardware partners for providing all their parts So you got Corsair, G.Skill Asus and I guess we had a Seagate hard drive in there as well Guys make sure you are subscribed And if you haven't already Maybe check out one of our previous build guides Where maybe you don't get the POV experience But you definitely get a bit of a More macro look at some of the finer details We are going to have one of those linked below for you Thanks to Intel once again for sponsoring this video Intel actually has an excellent Step by step guide with pre build checklists And tips on how to build your first gaming PC And we are going to have that linked in the video description