 The Flash Voyager GTX USB 3.0 drive from Corsair provides SSD-like performance and fits comfortably in your pocket. Click now to learn more. So, welcome to something a little bit unusual. I don't know how good the audio is going to be in here, but it is what it is. I am in the middle of preparing for one of our ultimate build guides and this project kind of spiraled out of control and all of a sudden it turned from a regular build guide into like I'm painting stuff. So I figured I might as well do a quick run through of the procedure that we're going to be using to paint the stuff in this build. So as you can see, I've already gotten started on a couple of things. So the RAM was the first thing that I got going on. So I'm using Corsair Dominator Platinums with the light bars but not the windows. So you can see the way that these are going to assemble is they're going to go on like this. So what I'm doing with these ones is I want to spray the bars that go inside here green so that I get a really cool green underglow effect underneath them. But then I'm doing kind of a razor themed build. So this is going to be in the H440 Razor Edition. So this silver is going to stand out like a bit of a sore thumb. So I also want to paint these black. Now you don't want to use regular paint on computer components because what will happen is it will be permanent so that kind of sucks. So instead we're going to be using Plasti-Hit. So I've got three different colors here that I need. So first of all I've got black. I'll be using this to stealth the Dominator Platinum, not the light bars rather, just the tops of the Dominator Platinums here. And then I'll also be using this to paint the thermal armor on the Sabertooth Z97 Mark 1. The reason that I'm doing that is I couldn't find any board that even remotely matched the color scheme we were going for. Gigabyte doesn't do their black and green color scheme anymore since the Z87. So I figured okay, well we'll do our best with it. I'm going to pull off the thermal armor, I'm going to stealth it, I'm going to make it completely black, then I'll put it back on and then once we install our RAM, plug in our 8-pin, plug in some graphics cards and cover up all this stuff, it should basically look like a completely stealth black board. And then the last thing, I had originally intended to do a lot more green in this build. I actually picked up two cans of the Blaze Green stuff here. So I picked up a couple cans of those and then I kind of realized that Razer's H440 or the MJX H440, whoever's it is, it really doesn't have a lot of green. It's mostly black with little green accents. So the last thing I'll be painting is just this top lattice on both of our R9 290s. So I've pulled this off the other one already and then I'm actually going to leave the rest of the card black. So we're just going to have those two green accents inside the system along with the underglow on the RAM and we're going to call that probably good enough. So without further ado, here we go. So to paint all the RAM from every angle without needing to touch it and potentially wreck it, I made myself a little thing out of a paint stir stick or two, I guess, two paint stir sticks so that I can space everything out and paint all this without going back and doing things over again. So here we go. We shake for a minute and all that noise. And let's see how this goes. OK. Code number one, done. Oh yeah, you should always, this is just a general spray bomb kit. Hold it upside down and wait until the paint stops coming out every time you're done using it to keep the nozzle clean. OK, so to get the saber tooth ready, the last thing you want to do is paint something while it's still attached to the PCB. So I'm just going to remove the rear armor. Something that I didn't realize before now is that the screws are actually all different on here, so I'm just going to kind of map them up for myself as I go. All right. So we're going to pull off the thermal armor here. So I could probably mask off these silver things here, but I'm just going to do the whole thing black. Same thing with this ASUS logo because it's in like this weird camo. We're just going to black that out. All right. Now we're onto the graphics card. So actually these Winforce gigabyte cards come apart really easily. All you got to do is undo six screws from the back. Once again, keeping very careful track of which ones go where. Actually, not that necessary here because what we're going to do is we are going to un-pug this bad boy, then we're going to just pop this baby off. Pop, just like that. There we go. So once that's done, we can actually, there we go, we can put these back in so we don't lose them while we're in the process. Now is a good opportunity since we're at this to replace the stock thermal compound. I mean, they put decent stuff on at the factory, but you can always put on something better, something like IC7 diamond or something like that. Or IC diamond. Seven is just the size of the two. And the last one here. There we go. And this, please come off. Please come off. There we go. This is the matching one for the other piece that we're going to paint. So the Blaze stuff doesn't go on very well if you don't undercoat with something light. So that's why I have both a white can as well as a green can. So we're going to have to do it probably at least three or four coats of white. Maybe two, maybe two, maybe three. And then we're going to start in with the green stuff here. Right. I guess I should have mentioned one of the reasons we're using Plasti Dip instead of regular paint is that you can peel it off when you're done. So this is going to be the toughest one just because I got to hit it from so many angles, but light coats from every angle is going to be the key. So I locked the vents open here before starting to paint just because I can't imagine why anyone would ever close them anyway. Maybe someone can enlighten me. That didn't end up being very light coats. Okay, do as I say, not as I do. Here's just a quick in progress. So I'm mostly done with the actual painting. I just need to put a few more coats of green on this because yeah, with the black, you couldn't see the green at all. And with the white, the green is very, very light, lighter than I'd hoped based on how it looks when you really spray a lot of it on something versus that. It's more of an acid green than sort of the darker green that I had kind of hoped for. So yeah, you can see these coats are darkening it. All right. The RAM is pretty much good to go though. So now is as good a time as any to clean off that stock thermal gunk. We're going to want isopropyl alcohol for this, preferably 99%. Although I guess it's never been proven that 70% doesn't do a decent enough job. They put a lot of thermal compound on these GPUs. So we're going to have to take a few runs at it here. So much more still. Now while we are replacing the thermal compound on the GPU itself, we're actually not going to replace any of the thermal pads for the memory or anything. If you try to put thermal compound in there instead of the pads that are there, then what will happen is your GPU core will not make, or rather all of those will not make correct contact. Your GPU core will prevent them from coming down enough in order to cool themselves. So they will overheat. So you want to use thermal pads rather than thermal compound there. So we're just going to use some MX2 because that's what I happen to have lying around. And then we're going to reapply this bad boy. So we apply a bit more on a GPU than we would on a CPU where we normally do uncooked grain of rice size thing. We're going to want a bit more here just because it's a bit bigger. So we're going to do like a jumbo uncooked rice. There we go. This is an incredibly important step in the reassembly process. Never forget to reconnect your fans because without fans, yeah, no cooling will happen. That will be terrible. All right. So we're just going to carefully realign that with the holes where everything came off of. No, we're not. Ha ha ha. Very funny. We need to put these back on first. Ha ha. That was a good one, Linus. The whole point of this whole exercise. There we go. All right. How's that going to look? It looks all right. It's a plasti-dip, I guess. Okay. So now it's time for attempt number two. Lining everything up so carefully. This time with all the other pieces in place. Okay. So just six screws to put it back together. Most of which I haven't misplaced. Just kidding. I didn't misplace any of them. If I did, that would be terrible. Don't do them up all the way at this point. You want to make sure you're applying pressure evenly as you put the cooler back on the card. So we're just doing them up a little bit. Then we're going to tighten everything up at the same time. So now we're tightening in a cross pattern. Get everything nice and tight on there. There we go. All right. So this, for better or for worse, is what our graphics card looks like now. We have a nice green accent. And I guess, oh, actually, I didn't show you guys the reassembly process for this. There's a safe place. But here's the saber tooth board. Nice and blacked out, stealthed out. And this is what the card will look like in it. Here we go. Except imagine two of them. Okay. Well, there. I guess you don't have to imagine it anymore. That's what it'll look like with both graphics cards installed with their green accents. About half bad. Now it's time to put the RAM together. So put this aside and get started on that. I've been doing this stuff long enough to basically have a phobia of losing one of a kind screws that are impossible to replace. Because man, the number of hours I've spent looking for that kind of stuff. That kind of stuff. Okay. So each of these is going to go back together with pretty much identical process, I guess. So this green bar is going to slot back in here where it used to be white. Assuming it still fits. Come on. Okay. Yeah. There we go. All right. So that's what those are going to look like in there. Then the whole thing is going to go back on top of the module. And that paint finish actually matches pretty darn well. Ooh, these are going to look good. Oh, I'm pretty stoked on these. All right. So the back pieces come through and then we screw the front pieces in from the front. Pretty straightforward. Okay. Here we are putting in the last screw. And that is what our finished modules look like. That nice green light bar. And then that nice all black stealthy looking finish. So let's go ahead and install this in the last slot on the board. And that's it. And that, my friends, is how you paint your computer components. Thank you for watching. Like this video if you liked it. Dislike it if you disliked it. Leave a comment. Let me know how do you paint your computer components or do you think painting computer components is stupid? We'd love to hear from you either way. Check out the support us link in the video description. You can buy a cool t-shirt not like this one, like the ones I normally wear. You can give us a monthly contribution or you can change your Amazon bookmark to one with our affiliate code so we get a small kickback whenever you buy stuff. It helps us out a lot. Thanks again for watching and as always don't forget to subscribe.