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Any good EU e-shop? Or is it just me, but I can't find "anything" that would not be out-of-stock - or is it common status these days?  
My preference would be 80% keyboards, in stock, cherry red or similar
Hello, I need help finding a new keyboard as my 2010 hp office keyboard broke and i was hoping to upgrade to a mechanical keyboard but I don't know what to pick. I have some preferences, like a scroll wheel/knob or being very quiet but I understand I can't have both with my budget. I've narrowed it down to having a knob since Topre and Niz Plum keyboards are a bit too expensive but I don't know which one to pick from.
Some knob keyboards I looked at: (Budget \~$200 CAD)

Keychron Q1
Epomaker TH80
QK75
Monsgeek M1
GMK67
AKKO PC75B
FEKER IK75

Most of these seem the same to me so it's a bit overwhelming. My priorities are having it arrive around a month at most (I know some keyboards take very long) and I would prefer it to come pre-assembled unless I can save a lot of money by assembling it myself. My friend recommended the Keychron but it's about the most expensive one on the list and I'm not sure if it's worth the price. Any help would be greatly appreciated! >

If you want quiet on a budget, I would maybe suggest getting a barebones Keychron V1, some silent switches (Haimu Heartbeats/Whispers or Skyloong Glacier Silents, or maybe Gateron silent ones if you want to order from keychron to save on shipping), and a set of Cherry or OEM profile PBT keycaps at 1.4mm or more thickness.
※Barebones keychron boards come fully assembled except for switches and keycaps, so you just have to pop them in and it's good to go, no tools or anything needed. (Barebone "kits" like a tiger lite or qwertykeys board have to be thoroughly assembled, though just with a screwdriver so it's not too bad, but significantly more work than a preassembled barebones board.) >

Thx for the reply! If I understand correctly, the V1 is just a plastic version of the Q1? Or is there something else that warrants the increase in price?
Another question, if I get a barebones keyboard, I will need to take apart the switches and lube them myself? >

Yeah V1 is basically a Q1 but plastic and the mounting system is different (gasket mount vs tray mount; not a hugely noticeable difference for most people unless you get finger soreness typing for long periods etc). 
Switch lubing is entirely optional to begin with (it's not like a machine where lube is necessary to keep it in working condition), and most people don't do lube clicky switches at all (like box jades), so you can skip that I think. That said, to answer your question: whether switches are lubed are not is based on the switch, not the keyboard. If a keyboard comes with lubed switches, you can buy those same switches lubed separately if you want, and not all prebuilt keyboards come with lubed switches. (lubing isn't even necessarily an improvement to all switches for all people; depends on preference) >

Alright, thank you so much for the help! >

Is u4t 65g and 62g a big difference >

Yes. The 65g spring is longer than the 62g variant, and has a snappier feel. >

Hey, wanted to ask something, i like all theme of this subreddit, keyboards look supercool! 
But i really not a fan of constructing my own keyboard, no offence, just not my cup of tea.
What keyboards can you recommend to buy and which not require to manually assemble it?
(pls no rgb black racing style keyboards, something pastel or retro looking 60%) >

Try keychron. You can swap out the keycaps if you like. Many of them have hotswap sockets if you want to try diff switches later. 
You could try topre too, leopold fc660c is my fav prebuilt board, older but solid >

I'm having issues with gazzew u4t switches in my keychron q8. They seem to have an extremely tight fit in the sockets and they are very difficult to remove once fitted. I have ripped the pins out of 3 switches trying to remove them now which is very worrying. I thought switches were a standard shape and size but I guess they're not as others I have slot in with no problems. Is there anything I can do or are these just a bad fit for the board? >

Some plates are just tight due to manufacturing tolerances. Could be worth trying some jwks / cherry switches to see if that works better. Different switches from different manu / batches can certainly vary by a hair here and there