>

Why do hotswapable keyboards only use and can only be swapped with specific switches. Im asking this because I'm unsure about why the rk61 can only have rk switches and want to learn how it make it only work with the specific switches
Hello, I need help finding a new keyboard as my 2010 hp office keyboard broke and i was hoping to upgrade to a mechanical keyboard but I don't know what to pick. I have some preferences, like a scroll wheel/knob or being very quiet but I understand I can't have both with my budget. I've narrowed it down to having a knob since Topre and Niz Plum keyboards are a bit too expensive but I don't know which one to pick from.
Some knob keyboards I looked at: (Budget \~$200 CAD)

Keychron Q1
Epomaker TH80
QK75
Monsgeek M1
GMK67
AKKO PC75B
FEKER IK75

Most of these seem the same to me so it's a bit overwhelming. My priorities are having it arrive around a month at most (I know some keyboards take very long) and I would prefer it to come pre-assembled unless I can save a lot of money by assembling it myself. My friend recommended the Keychron but it's about the most expensive one on the list and I'm not sure if it's worth the price. Any help would be greatly appreciated! >

If you want quiet on a budget, I would maybe suggest getting a barebones Keychron V1, some silent switches (Haimu Heartbeats/Whispers or Skyloong Glacier Silents, or maybe Gateron silent ones if you want to order from keychron to save on shipping), and a set of Cherry or OEM profile PBT keycaps at 1.4mm or more thickness.
※Barebones keychron boards come fully assembled except for switches and keycaps, so you just have to pop them in and it's good to go, no tools or anything needed. (Barebone "kits" like a tiger lite or qwertykeys board have to be thoroughly assembled, though just with a screwdriver so it's not too bad, but significantly more work than a preassembled barebones board.) >

Thx for the reply! If I understand correctly, the V1 is just a plastic version of the Q1? Or is there something else that warrants the increase in price?
Another question, if I get a barebones keyboard, I will need to take apart the switches and lube them myself? >

Yeah V1 is basically a Q1 but plastic and the mounting system is different (gasket mount vs tray mount; not a hugely noticeable difference for most people unless you get finger soreness typing for long periods etc). 
Switch lubing is entirely optional to begin with (it's not like a machine where lube is necessary to keep it in working condition), and most people don't do lube clicky switches at all (like box jades), so you can skip that I think. That said, to answer your question: whether switches are lubed are not is based on the switch, not the keyboard. If a keyboard comes with lubed switches, you can buy those same switches lubed separately if you want, and not all prebuilt keyboards come with lubed switches. (lubing isn't even necessarily an improvement to all switches for all people; depends on preference) >

Alright, thank you so much for the help! >

Is u4t 65g and 62g a big difference >

Yes. The 65g spring is longer than the 62g variant, and has a snappier feel. >

Hey, wanted to ask something, i like all theme of this subreddit, keyboards look supercool! 
But i really not a fan of constructing my own keyboard, no offence, just not my cup of tea.
What keyboards can you recommend to buy and which not require to manually assemble it?
(pls no rgb black racing style keyboards, something pastel or retro looking 60%) >

Try keychron. You can swap out the keycaps if you like. Many of them have hotswap sockets if you want to try diff switches later. 
You could try topre too, leopold fc660c is my fav prebuilt board, older but solid >

I'm having issues with gazzew u4t switches in my keychron q8. They seem to have an extremely tight fit in the sockets and they are very difficult to remove once fitted. I have ripped the pins out of 3 switches trying to remove them now which is very worrying. I thought switches were a standard shape and size but I guess they're not as others I have slot in with no problems. Is there anything I can do or are these just a bad fit for the board? >

Some plates are just tight due to manufacturing tolerances. Could be worth trying some jwks / cherry switches to see if that works better. Different switches from different manu / batches can certainly vary by a hair here and there >

Any good EU e-shop? Or is it just me, but I can't find "anything" that would not be out-of-stock - or is it common status these days?  
My preference would be 80% keyboards, in stock, cherry red or similar >

AliExpress >

To everyone using a different keyboard layout, why?
I understand the benefits in terms of finger travel distance and faster typing, but what is your usecase? Are you all authors? Or is it just a hobby? >

By "different" do you mean "non-100%"?  
Two... "crude" reasons are that they're cheaper because you need fewer switches/raw materials, and easier to mod for the same reason. Fairly big deals for many people into keyboards as a hobby.
Another is portability; wireless for sitting it on your lap on the couch, or using with a tablet/laptop on the go, or using the same keyboard at home and office, etc.
Probably the most common reason today is reducing the horizontal size of the board to allow for more mouse space. That's useful for simple convenience (and gamers), but also it's good ergonomics: typing/mousing with a "stretched" arm puts more strain on your tendons, which increases risk of repetitive stress injuries (and RSI are absolutely horrifying).
Then yeah the reduced finger/hand movement that you mentioned, which is similarly good for ergonomics & is faster once you get used to it. My impression is that programmers/coders are the most common profession to get into this stuff, since they spend a lot of time typing, are at relatively high RSI risk (an injury which can end their career), and benefit a lot from programmable hotkey/macros/etc to improve workflow/productivity. 
The HHKB was (I'm pretty sure) the first small layout that got popular, and the keyboard that spawned all the TMK/QMK/ZMK customizable firmware stuff, and it was explicitly designed to be a programmer's lifelong "saddle" as they changed between different computers over the years, in the way of a cowboy going through horses.
Aside from coders: as you mentioned authors, hospital staff, office workers generally, video editors, gamers, basically anyone that spends more than a couple hours a day typing & isn't doing tons and tons of number entry like accountants or some finance jobs etc. (and even then you might consider a 96%/1800 layout, a southpaw numpad, a detached numpad, or a numpad layer in QMK for sooome people) >

Sorry i meant Colemak vs Dvorak vs Querty for example.
Not the size, but the arrangement of the keys.
In my case i use an Iris Split Rev 2 for gaming, but with a querty layout because gaming. The split nature lets me move the right half for more mouse space >

Dohoho, well at least maybe I can link that post in the future lol. I think it's mostly still people who were faced with a potential RSI and wanted to reduce finger movement (I'm this category) or just liked the idea of being more efficient. Also think still mostly programmers, since they have the combination of "types a whole lot," "cares about efficiency," and "is likely to be exposed to it as an option/have the computer know-how to implement it," with writers/typists secondary. >

Tofu JR or Finalkey V65 R2 and why? >

I'm trying to convince myself to like the look of keyboards with no top case, where the plate is the top layer. Are there any benefits for this design apart from ease of cleaning? >

while easy to clean it is also more open so it gets dirty faster >

true, any other features about it you can point out? RGB maybe, but I don't care about that >

Good Bluetooth Keyboard?
Looking for a keyboard that is compatible with PC and ISO size 60-65%. Hotswappable would be amazing too if possible. >

Keychron K6 has a hotswap option and an ISO version. It doesn't have QMK/remapping though (if you're not in a hurry, K6 Pro should get ISO support before long). >

okay thxs >

Is the ik75 pro (1 mode) a wireless one? And which do u prefer jamesdonkey a3 or feker ik75 pro? Which spring should i swap on the boba u4t (i want it to be light as the cherry mx brown but still having the tactile force if possible, if cant give me the best spring i should swap on it)? What type of lubricant grease should i use on it and lube which parts? >

1 mode is wired only most likely. I wouldn’t recommend swapping U4T springs for anything lighter than 60g - a big tactile bump means it will be sluggish on return (will feel sticky) >

I read on reddit and they said that the ik75 pro is better than ik75 since the qmk/via but it has only 1 mode bluetooth, does that mean it have bluetooth. Also which type of lubricant grease should i use to lube it and lube which parts >

Hi all,
About to dip into mechanical keyboards for the first time ever
After a 5 day rabbit hole i think i am starting to get close to a decision…
I want a full-size keyboard. I just do.
I am strongly considering a New Model M.
The runner up is a Keychron Q6
Which would you pick and why? If neither what would your pick be
Bonus question what customisations should i consider for the winner (from factory). Keys to change etc, is a L shaped enter key all the rage?
There is just too much for me to make a choice! I am a little overwhelmed >


is a L shaped enter key all the rage?

Nah that's the just layout used in Europe and Japan, no real reason to swap.
Personally I'd go with the Q6 because I can't use a board without QMK (or similar) & like hotswap option to be able to change switches. New Model M is very cool but also quite loud and not much in terms of functional or physical customization afaik. If you want a buckling spring switch board for the feel though, go wild.
If you do get the Q6 the two things up front I would note are:
1) if you like the idea of customizing the physical experience down the line, consider picking up an extra plate or two with it (they don't cost much and don't add to the shipping if bought with a keyboard)
2) look into some of the QMK funtionality to see what you might like using out of that. i'll list some examples below
The most basic thing QMK/VIA allows is just changing the function of any key to any other's. For people who use alternate layouts like Dvorak or Colemak this is quite handy, or people who like to put a Backspace or Ctrl key where Caps Lock is, or swapping Backspace and Backslash.
This include the equivalent of "Fn" keys that change what other keys do & the alternate "layers" of function they allow you access to (can work like either Ctrl/Shift/Alt and be active as long as held down, or like Numlock and be toggleable). This can be super convenient and the possibilities are basically limitless, but for example you could add a layer that turns JKLI into arrow keys, for quickly moving the cursor around from the home position, or add a "symbols" layer that puts symbols you personally use a lot in a more convenient location. Or even if you just wish the Numlock functions were slightly different (like 5 being down instead of 2), you can edit that by replacing the default Numlock.
You can also assign multiple keypresses to one key, so like Cut/Copy/Paste keys, or a Ctrl+Shft+S "save as..." key, or even whole sentences or excel formulas that you use often. A lot of programmers for example will often have something that puts a set of brackets and then moves the cursor back in between them.
You can also assign media/volume/etc controls and other non-normal-key functions, like keys that control the mouse cursor/simulate mouse buttons. If you use the mouse a lot for work, this can be a huge wrist-strain-saver; there's a lot of cases where you just want to quickly move the cursor a bit and click and get back to typing, which this lets you do without a ton of arm/hand movement.
And my favorite: hold-tap keys. These allow you to give a key two different functions depending on how long it's pressed. Want to use Caps Lock as an "fn" key, but you use the actual caps lock function a lot? You can make the "tap" value Caps Lock, and the "hold" activate whatever function layer you want. (By default it will wait 200ms or wait to see if you press another key while it's still held down, whichever comes to first, to decide whether it's "tap" or "hold".)
(And all of this is doable in configurators that save directly to the board itself, so you don't need any coding knowledge to get it working/don't need software installed on every device you use it with.) >

So I have done a search on the subreddit, but couldn't really find anything too helpful. Or more specifically, I couldn't find a switch that is clearly well received 
I am looking for the following (in order of importance)
1) A tactile switch
2) that has a stiffer spring compared to Cherry MX clears
3) Ideally, silent >

Clears uses 100g springs, you're out of luck if you want to find a switch heavier without going through the process of frankenswitching. I'd suggest you get a silent tactile switch (Boba U4, Durock Shrimps etc.) and spring swap them with some 150g springs. >

Looking for a new mechanical keyboard, preferably with a knob and an overall budget of £150. So far, I’ve been looking at the k8 pro, keychron v1, epomaker th80, gmmk 2, kono 67 and acr pro 75 but a lot of them seem similar making it difficult for me! I’m also planning on spending around £40 on box jades (I know I’m weird).
Thanks
Edit: I would prefer uk iso but if there is a great deal on an ansi us, I could overlook it >

Keychron all the way >

Does anyone know any guides or tutorials for designing and modelling, as I want to start designing cases to print but don't really know where to begin. >

KTT Kang White or Akko Cream Yellow V3
What are the differences between the two?
I'm trying to find out which one to choose and buy but can't find a direct comparison using the same board. >

Scratch those, get gateron milky yellow >

What are some switches that are quiet, but not considered silent switches? >

No non-silent switch is going to sound silent >

using Epomaker budgerigar switches, the spacebar is very hard to press, is this switch itself heavy or is it just how Tactile switches are ? >

Hi, Im using a Tm680, after buying my parts for my build I have been really excited to start assembling it. Everything went well, i got my switches in perfectly, I got to do my mods, but then, when I plugged it in, I had a few dead keys. The case along with the PCB i used for the build was already used with another build before, with older parts. When I used my new switches and stabilizers, i thought it'd be okay, but then i had sockets that didn't light up, as if there was no power to them. I tried checking for debris, I blew it out, cleaned the pcb with a damp tissue and made sure to make it dry. Yet the 5 keys still didn't work. I'm also sure it wasn't the switches that were faulty, as I tried 4 types of switches on the sockets (Gateron Milky Blacks, RK Reds, Akko Jelly Black, and my current KTT Kang White). I hope anyone can help me with this, as I don't wanna give up on the build. I read about some reports in reddit about the Tm680 having dead switches when they shipped. They said it was the wire, I tried multiple other cords, it wasn't it. Any suggestions please? >

Keychron v1 or epomaker th80/66 - the epomaker is about £20 cheaper (I am likely to swap out all switches for box jades at some point) here in the UK for iso layout and has wireless. Which one sounds better stock?
Thanks! >

I want to buy custom keycaps for my GK61 but I'd prefer it if they had the right FN+key combinations on them. What are my options? >

I don't think there are any, since the default GK61 layout is different than the next brand. And since it's programmable, it would be odd to print the functions in the cap. Why would a cap company limit themselves to a particular board brand?
Are you finding it hard to memorize each function? >

I mean for example fn + k is delete
fn + y is prtsc
i dont think I could remember those if they were not written on it, especially when I'm using a full keyboard at work. >

I mapped Fn+backspace to be delete. Much easier to remember. I never needed PrtScr >

Hello, I've been looking into different keyboards because I want to replace my Logitech G513(100%). I went to a tech store(Live in Denmark) and tried out some different ones and ended up licking the Razor Black Widow v3 Pro(129,30 Dollars)(non removeable switches). 
It uses something called razor green switches and from what I have read its supposed to be the same as cherry mx blue, is that true? 
Because I like the keyboard, but I would prefer something without Ten keys(65-80%). after looking at different YouTube videos I heard that keychron(.com)(Shipping-policy seems like I would be able to order from here) was a great website to look for keyboards, but they use switches called "Gateron"( Based Tyrone says it best(from the wiki) doesn't seem to work).
Are "Gateron" basically the same as cherry or are there notable differences, comparison charts doesn't seem to indicate such?
Are there other important features I should be considering when selecting a keyboard(have no connection preference)?
I apologize in advance if my question isn't up to standard and for my grammar, if you feel like I didn't clarify something well enough you are welcome to ask me to elaborate, thank you for your time. >


Are there other important features I should be considering when selecting a keyboard(have no connection preference)?

Hotswap (changeable switches), programmability (remapping, macros, editing Fn layers, etc), mounting style (tray mount/gasket mount/top mount/etc) & quality (if gasket mount does it have space to move) are some "functional" differences. 
Also ISO vs. ANSI layout (ISO is the "tall" enter key and short left shift, ANSI is "long" enter key and long left shift). ISO is big in Europe, ANSI most other places (unfortunately this means if you want ISO there are many less options).
There's also aesthetic/sound/etc differences (case/plate material, foam/silicon inserts, weights, etc).

Are "Gateron" basically the same as cherry or are there notable differences, comparison charts doesn't seem to indicate such?

They are both good brands. Their switches don't feel the same though; gateron ones usually are "smoother" and have less spring ping than cherry ones, and for "browns" the gateron tactile bump feels smaller than cherry's (imo).
Keychron is a pretty good brand, and a relatively accessible one in Europe which is helpful in your case, so they should be a fine pick. >

Thank you very much for your response, that really cleared some things up, i will look into the things you brought up. >

What did you choose and why? Keychron Q1 v2 or Monsgeek M1? Keychron is more expensive, but it has my favorite color (silver grey). On the other hand Monsgeek cheaper and has polycarbonate plate out of the box. >

If QMK matters to you, I'd recommend doing some digging to make sure the M1 actually has QMK instead of just using VIA as a GUI for proprietary firmware. It's not on the list of QMK-supported boards and afaik they haven't submit a pull request, so there's a high chance it either doesn't do QMK or they've broken the QMK license. >

Monsgeek M1 (int. ver.) supports VIA and thats enough for me >

What premium boards can I get for a budget of $800-$1000? I'm trying to upgrade from the Zoom65 EE and have a QK75 coming in soon. I want to get the best for my budget for my birthday coming up. A board I'm considering getting is the Mode Sonnet, but what are some other options I can get for my budget? >

Enter a group buy. For those go on geekhack >

Got any favorite group buys live rn? >

Heracles80 looks amazing, I'm in it >

It looks nice. I saw it on alexotos’ stream. Do you know when the gb ends? >

heracles80 pre order, ends around February 4 >

thanks, ill give it a look >

Hey All,
Been  diving into the keyboard hobby for a couple of months now and all I  really see as the top tier linear switches are the oil kings. Now having  said that I noticed the posts/vids around this are fairly old (like a  year old roughly). What are your thoughts on Oil kings, are they still  the go to for premium linear switches or has the landscape changed? >

Oil Kings are great since they are very smooth and they sound nice but if I really wanted to have a more buttery smoothness, the Gateron CJ is also a nice alternative. >

Anyone have experience on both the gazzew boba pink and outemu white? Looking to making a custom one for daily use. >

Hey all,
I'm planning to buy the RK61/RK68 which is a hot swappable keyboard. I wanted to know that could you swap the switches for something like Cherry Mx switches? Thanks In Advance! >

It's a good board but I'm not sure if they use proprietary hotswap sockets, which make it impossible to use switches from other brands or I'm just mixing it up with redragon >

Ok so I think this is a very niche question. I'm planning to get a new keyboard for my partner. Is there any good keyboard that's 1) low profile keys and 2) as little gap between keys as possible? Ideally, the keys should be so close that your finger can glide between them without feeling a gap between.
Edit: For example, the nuphy air seems promising. Are there other similar products? Or similar keycaps that can be used with other low profile stuff like keychron? >

Try anything with xda caps. >

Hi, i bought recently a Vortex Race 3 USB C. I wanted to switch from the Vortex Vibe to this one since it has USB C and was more convenient for me.
The thing is, i like the MDA profile a lot and i had already the correct keycaps sets that i used in Vibe... But the Race 3 has, i think, custom sized "Right Delete" and "Right Shift" and "Esc". No key, even other that were labeled differently, would fit the size.
Is there any MDA keycaps set that covers those keys? I googled online but i haven't found anything. >

anybody have an idea for a makeshift switch puller? >

i’m travelling and building a board for my friend, but forgot to pack a switch puller >

I have an Input Club K-Type I'm planning to list for sale soon that I've largely had sit in its box for the past couple years. Today, I reinstalled the configurator to flash the default settings to it, but it's unable to recognize the keyboard when it's in flash mode. It's been a while since I've done anything with this board, and I'm starting from scratch with the utilities required to do so. If I remember correctly, a driver needs to be installed for flash mode, and Device Manager seems to corroborate that (as seen in this screenshot). Does anyone have a link to where I can download this? I don't seem to have it for some reason. In my web searching, I'm being met with a lot of dead links. >

I just made my first custom build on a Tofu 65 and I am using VIA for the first time. I have seen some videos of people programming the lights within VIA, but my version does not seem to have it. I am using windows 10 if that makes any difference.
Can I only reprogram the RGB with the layered buttons? Because I would prefer a program where I can see what I'm changing, instead of using the keys.
Any advice is greatly appreciated! >

Guys im new to keyboard modding and what mods should i do for my akko acr87? >

What you want to but I can help you further if you tell me what sound profile you want to achieve >

I'll pm u >

What's the best linear switch and what's the best tactile switch in your opinion?? I'm looking around for switches and I like both linear and tactile, and it's so hard to decide... 
I prefer something light (low acutation force)... I heard a lot about panda tactiles, but it seems like they are like 65g or something. Any recommendation or help would be appreciated :( >

I really like Gateron CJ and Gateron Oil King for buttery smooth linears and they both have <=55g actuation force.
For tactiles, I have only tried (and love) Boba U4T but they are on the heavy side for you at atleast 62g. >

Where do I start to build my own keyboard. I am new to this. I use my keyboard for gaming mainly. ( Have a different one for work). Do I buy individual components and assemble it? I don't want to spend an arm and a leg. About $150 is fine. Not looking for full size just 80% >

I've used linears for a long time & I want to try out tactile switches, but a lot of the good ones that I found are really expensive. Are there any good tactiles for around 24 to 50 cents a switch? >

purple pandas, jwk t1 tactile, geon clear, box royal, box burnt orange, baby kangaroos >

Nuphy Halo 75
Hi, are the Baby Raccoon switches in the Halo 75 factory lubed? Also, what kind of hot swappable support does the Halo 75 offer? 5 pin? 3 pin? Or both? Thanks!  
P.S. I'm posting here as the Nuphy community Reddit isn't very active and I receive little help from there. >

Yeah they're factory lubed but I recommend lubing anyway. If any board has 5 pin sockets, it will support 3 pin and if it has 3 pin it will of course support 3 pin switches BUT you can cut off the two plastic legs on the switch bottom housing and use 5 pin switches too. And I'm sorry but I couldn't find how many pins. >

I'm interested in vintage mechanical keyboard but I don't know where to start looking for them. I tried searching it in online marketplace but I couldn't find any. Btw I live in Malaysia. So, does anyone have any suggestion for me on where to start looking for a vintage mechanical keyboard? >

Do you know which model specifically you are looking for? Deskthority if not. Else check your local second-hand marketplace or shops that are liquidating old offices. Taobao has a handful of old cherry boards if you know how to use tabao >

Hello everyone,
I will soon buy and assemble my first custom Keyboard and I want it to be worth the money.
I am planning to go with these components:
Tofu65 2.0 Case (black)
65% Brass plate
KBD67 Mark II RGB V3 Hot-Swap PCB
R3 EPBT X GOK KURO/SHIRO PBT KEYCAPS SET
KBDfans Quartz stone wrist rest
And I'm not sure which switches I should get.
So what I want from you, is your opinion on this setup and Some help choosing the switches. I have already watched some YouTube videos for switches and I found these 3, which I like: Kinetic Labs Husky Linear Switches; Akko V3 Cream Yellow Switch; Akko CS Silver Switch. I am not sure if they're good or if they're not or if they're outdated and that there are better versions. >

Hello there
First of all, your parts look good, you shouldn't have any compatibility issues. As for switches, there's an accepted staple for each type:
Tactiles:
Most tactility: drop x invyr holy pandas
Deepest sound profile: boba u4t
Cheap but still good: durock t1 / akko tactile switches
Linears:
Smoothest: either prevail epsilons or tangerines
Deep sound: gateron black ink / oil king
Best cheap: gateron milky yellows
Clicky: 
I legitimately have no idea, all I know is that cherry MX blues are bad clicky >

Looking for help with my DZ60RGB. It keeps locking up after several boots. The only fix has been to remove all the caps/switches and use the reset button on the back. I have an aluminum case and I recently added insulated washers, but that hasn’t resolved the problem either. Anyone else had a similar problem? >

Anyone know where I can get an SP Star switch sampler? It's ok if i have to buy each one separately, I just want them all >

crystal_key_store on ebay or keyleido for sample singles >

GMMK PRO Glorious "inhouse" keycaps   !!??
​
what is their PROFILE?
​
cherry? 
Does it say that anywhere? >

I'm not sure what you mean by "Inhouse". Do you have a link or picture? >

Hi, new fan here. Ordered glorious panda switches and AKKO V3 creamy blue ( i think they are called that) and was looking into buying a lube-ing set and wondered is there different types od switch openers? Do i need to get a specific ones ? If so which one is for which switch how do i know ? 🤯 >

for mx browns is long spring or med spring better ? >

All up to preference >

I've recently finished a build with a keebwerks Mega and Thick Thoc Marshmellows.
Has anyone here experienced the problem of keys not registering key presses?
Slow presses tend to miss more.
The general fix seems to be to remove and replace the (same) switch? This is not always the case, though.  I can't work out if the problem is jumping around or if I just have dirty contacts or something? Could it be something to do with my lube job? >

I've been looking for a hotswappable 100% barebones ANSI keyboard. I'd like a removable cable and some kind of knob. I don't mind buying one with switches and keycaps, as long as I can remove them.
I've gone through the wiki manufacturers and the only one I found that matches the profile is Keychron Q6. Have I missed any? >

No that’s pretty much it (and their V6). 100% boards aren’t super popular, so there aren’t that many choices. >

I ve recently build a ergodox EZ clone as a first mechanical DIY keyboard.
The issue I currently have is that key 1 and 3 of every row on the left side registers together. Anyone got an idea how to get this sorted? >

So I want to choose my first keyboard but I can't choose should I buy patriot viper v765 or v770 
V765 price 70 kailh box white switches, dust and water proof ,has wrist rest, has scrolling wheel ,has good rgb, 2019 and 2020 nominated as best keyboard for price
V770 price 100 kailh red switches , has extra  programable keys , has extra place  like thing where u put ur phone , also keyboard has 4 cables 2 usb and microphone and headphones u plug them into pc and keyboard has outlet for headphones + one usb port so u can plug ur mouse and headphones into keyboard has very cool multimedia keys + scrolling wheel 
But the real question is wich is faster and better for gaming >

What's a good place to get individual switches in Canada? I'd like to avoid high shipping costs and get gateron reds for a hotswap keypad I just bought so I only need like 4-10 switches. Preferrably pre-lubed but regular is probably fine >

Funnily enough it was cheaper for me to get gateron yellows on amazon in a larger package, since the shipping was free instead of $15-$20 >

I am looking for a new mechanical keyboard and after doing some research and getting some opinions, I have narrowed it down to three:

Monsgeek M1
Keychron V1
Epomaker TH66/80 (don't mind the TH66 form factor)

I plan on getting box jades regardless which keyboard I choose. When looking at overall cost, the Monsgeek ends up being around £155 (including keycaps), the Keychron V1 £140 and the Epomaker £120, shipping costs included - is one worth it over the other/better value for money, especially stock (I don't plan on doing mods straight away, perhaps later)? Any other recommendations? Thanks in advance! >

Monsgeek m1 is the best and not that much more expensive >

a couple of questions about qmk:
​

is there a way to run something when a dynamic macro finishes running?

if there is, I would like to use that to indicate that a macro is running with a led, and also there is a (regular) macro that I want to behave differently depending on whether it is called while a dynamic macro is running or not.
​

what is the most convenient way of splitting my code into multiple files?

I have defined a data structure that I use in my keymap.c. I think it would be strange to write all of that in the keymap.c file because the data structure doesn't have much to do with the actual keymap itself. the best I managed to do without getting compilation/linking errors is including the definitions in a header file for the data structure, but I don't think it is good practice to do so. >

I have an Aukey KM-G12 (will update later if I have the wrong model) and am recently looking into modding my own keyboard. I was wondering if anyone knows if this keyboard is hot swappable? I'm hoping to swap out its switches and keycaps >

Mechanical keyboard
Hello guys, i m from Brazil and i need help to find a good keyboard. I have 80 dollars for pay in a keyboard, i just want some recommendations. Thanks :) >

Keychron.com >

Trying to find a gasket mount wireless 65% keyboard around $150 or under. So far I’ve found the Keychron Q2, CIDOO V65, and Eclipse EC66. Anyone have experience with any of them and can guide me? So far I’m leaning towards the CIDOO as it’s aluminum and not as expensive as the Q2. >

The Q2 is not wireless. >

You’re right. Not sure how I missed it. I decided to go for the Zoom65 which is a little pricier but I feel worth it. >

Where are you buying it? >

Cannon keys in the US is releasing some more stock on the 17th of January. >

I'm wanting to build my first keyboard and am having trouble finding a lot of opinions on the two boards I'm looking at, and they seem so similar from a newbies perspective that I fear I'm missing something. The Epomaker Skyline 75% is $99 and the Feker IK75 is $113. Now,
I'm tempted to get the IK, but mainly because I could actually find a decent amount of genuine thoughts on it, whereas it seems like the Epomaker has nobody talking about it.
I would LIKE to be happy with the Epomaker, because it's wired and cheaper, but I just worry I'm spending, still, a lot of money when I should've spend a little more for a better product.
(also can you use the Feker wired? I can't rlly find an answer)
Help is greatly appreciated :D >

The feker ik75 is the better option and has 3 mode connectivity which includes wired. Also, where are you getting your prices from, the ik75 is far cheaper than the skyline >

I'm on amazon because I have a big gift card for it, I also am in Canada and I've found a lot of keyboard sites either don't ship to where I am, or they cost a fortune. Oh and also the Epomaker is on sale on amazon >

Ok, still, get on AliExpress and you can get a cheap ik75 with worldwide albeit sometimes slow shipping >

Hello, I have a GK6X hotswappable pcb on my keyboard. Its worked fine for about a year, but for some reason whenever I unplug and plug it back in, or turn my computer off and on, the keyboard acts as if the control button is being pressed.
The only solution I've found is pressing restore on the drivers app, but it only fixes the problem until the next time I turn my computer off or unplug my keyboard. Any help is appreciated. >

Hi! I'm new to mechanical keyboards and trying to decide between the LOFREE TOUCH Triple Mode($139 USD) or the Logitech G713 ($149.99). 
To be used for gaming as well as work. Open to suggestions!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
LOFREE Pros
• it's the only hot-swappable of the options
• Wired & Bluetooth capable
• lots of keycaps options
• curved (supposed to be ergonomic?)
• 100 key
LOFREE Cons
• Have to wait for shipping
• what if I don't like having a curved keyboard?
• not backlit
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
G713 Pros
• backlit (I work at night so this helps a lot)
• comes with cute wrist support
• comes in clicky/linear/tactile
• immediate pickup available
G713 Cons
• not hot swappable
• 87 key; ten-keyless
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >

I'm looking for affordable switches that are immune to north facing cherry profile interference. 45g linear would be my preference, something that I can order from amazon.de, or Aliexpress..  (similar to normal cherry reds)
Please help! >

Look at akko cs switches >

Just got a new keyboard in the mail and would love to be able to get QMK on it. It's an arm based board using this mcu. I'm hoping someone will give me some direction as to how to get it reset or what to do specifically to get qmk toolbox to recognize it. I've taken a good hard look at the underside of the PCB and there are no switches aside from the slider to go from mac to win. Once I can find my switch puller I'll be able to take a look at the other side but I'm not holding my breath for a nice convenient reset button anywhere. Does anyone know the procedure to get a 32bit arm mcu to reset? What pins to bridge or and when to bridge them? Any help appreciated! >

Anyone has a guide on how to build the zoom tkl? >

here >

what the mcu in akko acr pro 68? >

proprietary epomaker chip >

Making my first keyboard, looking for a good 75 percent wired keyboard, and some linear switches you would recommend with it. I will be using it for mostly gaming but I will also be doing some typing. Budget for whole board is around $300. Any advice helps! >

Keychron Q1v2 or V1, or Monsgeek M1 are good wired 75% boards. As for switches, Gateron Pro Yellows are very popular budget linears. Among more premium linears, Oil Kings and Gateron CJs are very popular.  Do you have a sense of how heavy a switch you want? >

Not really sure, I would prefer something on the lighter but not too light. Also forgot to mention in the switch I want a mix of smoothness and sound, if possible. >

The sound will be determined primarily by the board (plate material, mounting style, case material, use of foams, etc.) and less by the switches themselves — unless you buy silent switches, where the switch makes a big difference.  
As for choosing the weight, it might be useful to order a switch tester with a variety of linear switches to get a sense of what weight suits you.  In general, though, Akko makes a number of budget linear switches that are on the lighter side, and some of them are available pre-lubed, which contributes to smoothness. >

I'll look into that, thanks. Are there any specific materials or mounting styles that can get you a thockier sound? That's what I'm going for. And some switches I have been considering are Ink Blacks, Tangies, Creams, Aqua Kings, and Alpacas. Thoughts on these? >

My goal is to make a gateron black ink switch feel lighter than my akko matcha greens (less than 45g). The main component of the mechanical switch that affects the actuation force is the spring itself. However, I don't know if different spring lengths are compatible or if I should even look for that specifically. I have read a little bit about progressive springs vs. conventional springs and after all this research I don't really know what direction I should go in. I also see how there is a plus or minus 5g when looking at the details for the switch's actuation force, could stems in the switch be responsible for this or is this number just for tolerance? >

all lengths should fit all mx style switches, variance is based on the quality of the spring. In my experience, the most important trait for spring feel after weighting is this tolerance, the lower the better. >

trying to setup macros through software, for HAVIT HV-KB389L , I have the macro setup I just cant figure out how to assign the macro to a specific button if anyone could help that would be sick pls and ttyytyyt >

Looking to get a new keyboard and would like some suggestions. Only real requirement is it's 84 key layout like Vortex Race and Keychron K2. 
Vortex Race seems to be out of stock everywhere in the UK and K2 I'm a little hesitant on. Really struggling to find anything else that seems solid. Any suggestions? >

Why do some keycap sets come with extra B keys? >

It's support for Alice keyboards. Most Alice layout boards have a B on either side of the split. >

Hi,
I' am (trying) to design my own high profile keyboard case. I'm stuggling with determining the depth of the case to make the keycaps sit flush. (like a KBD 5 degree fo example) Can someone help me out? Standoffs will be 5mm tall. 
Thanks! >

So I just bought the Akko Horizon 5087S with Akko CS Lavender Purple switches for 100$ and a 5G bottle of Krytox 205g0. I want to lube the switches and thought about adding film too. Does anyone have experience in filming Akko switches and do they need it all? >

Discussed here. Apparently the Akko housings are quite tight, so filming may be impractical or unnecessary. You can first check for housing wobble. >

what's a good budget tkl build for around £120, that would also include all supplies, such as lube, im in the uk. >

I'm not sure there are many kits that include lube, especially at that price range. You'll probably just have to order the supplies separately. I'd recommend the keychron V3, and buy the supplies separately. >

Switching keys on a non-rgb but white backlight keyboard
Hello all, I have a Keychrone K2 hot swappable keyboard. It's not RGB but it has white backlight. It has red switches but I don't know the brand. It's been a while.
So, I wanna change the switches to Cherry MX silent reds. There are 2 versions: RGB and non-rgb. I'm confused about which one to buy. The non-rgb doesn't have a transparent case. So, if I buy that I guess I lose the white light. If I buy the RGB, I don't know if it works on my keyboard. I can't find a specific answer.
So, which one should I buy? How do I keep the white backlight and have silent switches on my keyboard? >

The RGB switches are what you want, and they are compatible with every other 5-pin PCB regardless of RGB/No-RGB.
The top housing is transparent and the bottom is semi-opaque to allow lighting from your keyboard.
The white light will be slightly less intense from the opaque base though and it may have a reddish hue from the red stem. >

Thank you so much! I'm gonna order now 🛒 >

I got a Tofu JR from KBDfans recently,does anyone know how to change the RGB settings? I don't have a tilde key, nor any FN keys programmed to this board. Any help is appreciated! >

That worked perfectly, thank you so much! >

Hi, im new to mechanical keyboards, looking for low budget (max 80€) gaming mainly, preferably red or brown switches and full size or almost (i dont like compact). If there's rgb, good, if not, not a big deal. Wired vs wireless does it matter? I lean towards wired tho. So far I'm considering :
Trust Gaming GXT 1863 (40€)
Corsair K55 RGB pro XT (64€)
HyperX Alloy Core RGB (55€)
Skiller SGK30 (55€)
Cooler Master SK653(80€)
Edit: is Logitech G213 Prodigy bad? I've seen many negative reviews >


Logitech G213 Prodigy

well not sure why u even listed it as its not a mechanical kb >

Ur right, sry I'm nub, just looking for stuff and it got my curiosity >

Hello! Going to purchase the keychron k10 pro when released as my first board. Any advice on key caps for a dark knight themed office space? >

I want to make a creamy keyboard but I need help finding the switches and foam.
I trust akko brand because my silvers are perfect. I am thinking of making a creamy sound with Akko CS linear jelly black switches, but if you have a creamier MX switch I am all ears. 
Also if you know where I can buy foam for my 75% keyboard already cut out, I would greatly appreciate it. I am having trouble finding the layout for the Keychron V1. >

just buy a foam that has bigger dimensions, make slits of where wires need to go through and then cut off excess >

What are good 40% keyboards that are hotswap? >

Just asking, I got the keychron V1 and I noticed that it seems to only have 6 key roll-over, in wired mode(as it only has wired mode). Is this normal behavior and is there any way for me to enable n-key roll-over? It wouldn't be a total dealbreaker, but it would be nice to have n-key to avoid inputs getting eaten. >

) Open VIA
2) Select they key you want to press to enable NKRO
3) Press SPECIAL on the bottom left and then select "Toggle NKRO" (it's in the 3rd row from the top).
4) From now on pressing that button will enable/disable NKRO >

I’m thinking about buying a keychron keyboard. Would you recommend v or q series. How much difference does the material make? >

The Q series is better if you're just keeping it on your desk while the V series is more portable since it's lighter.
Different sound profiles too with the Q being metal so it's all down to personal preference and budget. If you can swing it, the Q is a great buy while with a V series you can put the money you saved towards keycaps and switches or whatever you want.
You can't go wrong either way. >

What are the main sound differences between the plastic and metal bodies? >

Metal will result in a higher pitched sound compared to plastic which is more dull sounding but that's only part of the story.
Sound is affected by everything from your keycaps to what's inside your case as well. You can go on YouTube and watch some videos with sounds tests if you want a better idea of the differences. It's hard to describe it in words. >

Are there really different kinds of switch openers??
So im super new to this and im in the process of building my first custom keyboard ,ordered all the parts and wanted to buy all thats needed for lubing. As i was scrolling amazon i noticed there were different switch openers for different switches and now i dont know what to buy. I bought 2 sets of switches: 1. Glorious Holy Pandas and 2. AKKO V3 creamy blues to try out. What switch opener do i need to buy for the mentioned switches. 
2.Also is there a community prefered lube that everyone uses or is everything the same stuff but in different packages ? 


Can i lube springs with the same lube for switches or i need a different one ? 


5ml lube enough for 160 ish switches.? >

Does the YMDK Wood 96 support full per key RGB?
I'm looking at a YMDK wood 96 for my first keyboard. On the site, it says, "If you need add leds yourself,please note that it only support one color now for backlit." Im not really clear if the translation is just bad and they just mean it only supports a single color across the entire board, or just one per switch. 
It's a QMK PCB, whatever that means.
Keyboard Here >

My Keychron K2 V2 Aluminum Keyboard screwhole on the bottom right side wont accept the screw any sort of solution? >

Does anyone know if the Think 6.5v2 can use tx stabs?  I know it requires screw in stabs but not sure if I can use others. >

Anyone know the thickness of these pcb's?? thanks
-Onyx FRL TKL pcb
-Iron165 R2 pcb
-Bauer 2 pcb >

Hi 
Any one got the k588 broadsword pro software >


k588 broadsword pro software

wish u luck id email the manufacturer reddragon software is notoriously horrible and they have a million different version of the software some need a specific version and even then if u get the right version it still might not work >

Akko PC75B case only
Hello! Last year I bought an Akko PC75B and I'm looking to get a new case with a different color for it. So I would keep the switches, pcb, foam, etc. Just change the case.
Anyone knows where I could buy the case only? I tried emailing their customer support, but no answer. My hope is that they use a generic case for their 75 exploded keyboards that I could buy somewhere on the internet... thanks! >

There are no alternative cases for that board, which is true of most custom keyboards as most of this hobby does not have universal parting. No such thing as a "generic case for 75% keyboards" >

Oh that's too bad. Thank you very much for the answer! >

Quick search turned up two possibilities I won't try to dissect, but here is a old GB for The Ave. and here is someone's post of an aluminum Boulevard.
here is a comment to a discord of the open-source file >

Thank you! >

Hi! Any full size iso with red switches prebuilt? >

keychron >

Hey all!
New to the game and was looking for some advice/recommendations for a 75, ANSI, hot-swappable, ~~preferably wireless~~, QMK/VIA, mac compatible keyboard mainly used for productivity (no gaming).
Many, many thanks in advance! >

not many kb support QMK/VIA and wireless they are semi rare also metal body frames disrupt Bluetooth signal so they r also rare >

Oh, I somehow didn't think about that tbh. Guess I need to open up for wired options then too. Thanks for pointing it out! >

My Akko PC75B plus PCB is dead. Does anyone know of a place where I could just get a new PCB without buying the whole keyboard all over again? >

for that kb there isnt any for sale as its only sold with the kb >

I love the layout and look of the Honey x Milk XDA keycaps with the minimal look, the all caps font and letters in center. However it’s quite off-white and more beige tinted and it’s starting to become off putting in my all white setup, any similar not too expensive keycaps that look close to this but are true white? >

What are the best 75% boards for under $200? >

Keychron V1 vs Feker IK75 vs Epomkaer TH80 vs NJ80 are some that I often see recommended!
Edit: These are all 75% with knobs >

I want to create/buy my first mechanical keyboard, but don't know lwhere to start and what are the important things to know ? a penny for your thoughts? >

Have you ever used a mechanical keyboard before? If not you should go and try one out whether that's at your local Best Buy or similar retailer to get a feel for what you may/may not like.
After that it's a matter of size/layout and what you're going to be using it for--is it for typing/work only or are you gaming most of the time, etc.
Once you know what you need it for and get a rough idea of your requirements, you can come back here for some recommendations from the sub. >

Ok thank you for that ! Will do, will come back with more specific needs/questions >

Any switches similar to the Epomaker Budgerigar? I've been using Jwick Blacks v2 but recently used an Epomaker keeb for a bit and quite liked their budget switches.
For those who haven't tried it, the Budgerigars are a tactile switch. But what's interesting about them is that all the actuation weight is right at the top with little. It's like popping bubble wrap if that makes sense - there's little give before you have to push to actuate. I like it cause it feels kinda like a linear on the way down but with like an "are you sure" confirmation moment on each key. Really helps me prevent mistyping. It also feels heavier than my Jwick Blacks despite having a lower actuation force since it's all at the top.
The only problem I have with it is that it feels a bit scratchy and you can tell its a budget-y switch. But I really like the general idea. I used to think I didn't like tactiles cause I only tried Cherry/Gat Browns and didn't like how mushy they felt but these helped me understand that if the actuation force is right at the top I do enjoy it. >

im building my qk75, but the switches wont go in properly (gateron oil kings). What can i do t fix this? >

Got an Epomaker Akko 3084v2, the stock stabs (plate mount) had really loose tolerances and no amount of modding could fix the rattle so I got some durock plate mount stabs. I've tried every combination of lubing the stems, lubing the housing, lubing the wire, lubing with 205g0, lubing with dielectric grease and holee mod but they always stick no matter what. They work fine when they aren't mounted in the plate but the second I mount them they stick. I made sure they were mounted the right way, they are fully seated with the release clip fully engaged, the stem is facing the right way (2 holes towards the wire), the wire isn't rubbing against anything, it's not over or underlubed and I've tried it with and without a switch. The stabs take a little bit of force to mount them so the only thing I can think of is that the stabs are a little too big for the plate and mounting them is causing the housing to pinch the stem, preventing them from returning, any help/thoughts on what else it could be? Or if anyone else has had this problem and fixed it somehow? >

I have a razer black widow Elite. It was 250$+ tax. The w key is going out on me and I’m annoyed. I’m not afraid of a price tag if it’s within reason. What’s a long lasting keyboard that is just super nice? I prefer linear switching if that helps thanks guys! >

Hello! I’m looking to get my feet wet with mechanical keyboard modding.
I’m looking to get into a hot swap mechanical keyboard that’d be good for learning to customize and mod the keyboard over time. Prefer a 65% but TKL and other sizes are fine as long no numpad. Primary use is typing/gaming with a preference of a linear switch. Sitting on about a $200 budget to start. >

Check out the Keychron Q or V series. They're good value for the price and can be modded as much or as little as you like. >

Windows key not working on Redragon Deimos K599.
Hi,  I'm having a problem with my keyboard. The Windows key doesn't respond,  and when the lights turn off, it stays on. But when I press it the  keyboard turns on, but the key still won't work.
I already changed the switch, but it didn't do anything.
I hope this is the right place to ask.