comment: >
  
  where, qwertykeys?
context: Is there a software available where I can check if all my switches are working? I use a tofu dz60rgb >
  
  You don't need software... you can just use an online checker, like the one on QMK config.   Or, just use a generic keyboard test site like this. >
  
  Do I need 2 knobs? or just 1 knob is enough?
  I want to buy keyboard macro (Macropad) and there is a choice: keyboard macro with 1 knob or with 2 knobs but I don't know other use of knobs beside sound volume and scrolling 
  (I think scrolling not very useful in knob if I have mouse wheel). So is 2 knobs are useful or one is enough? >
  
  That is a question only you can answer. In addition to some uses listed here, a rotary encoder can be used for several things:
  
  arrow up/down
  arrow left/right
  mouse wheel up/down
  changing layers on the macropad
  Photoshop zoom in/out
  Photoshop increase/decrease brush size >
  
  Thank you so much, I didn't know about that much stuff I can do with knobs. >
  
  Good Afternoon,
  Obviously new to the QMK side of things. Recently picked up a TIDBIT as a cheaper entry point into the QMK landscape to see its viability for my work. I am provisioning thousands of PC's a week and have automated a lot of processes with the Code v3 TKL and 104-key, to a lesser degree the Pok3r Vortex as well.
  My original purchase was made after looking at this thread here. The issue I hit is that the individual in question had linked his/her example and that link is now dead.
  Basically one of the key functions that I cant emulate on the Code v3 is repeating F2 or F12 for booting my systems (often 300 or so at a time) without someone actually hitting F2/F12. After sleuthing the net, this looks to be termed as "AutoFire", where you can toggle for a key to be repeatedly entered until toggled to stop.
  Any direction or assistance to achieve to this would be greatly appreciated.
  Thanks! >
  
  personally dont know of any kb or software that can do this . all kbs and software have a limit of how many times u can include a keypress in a macro even rapidfire style will have a time out of a min or so >
  
  Thanks for chiming in, I do appreciate it.  
  Then is it possible to string macros into a sequence to continually repeat until the layer is switched or simply unplugged? This device appears to have 15 layers in the QMK configurator so sacrificing one would still allow for a production device beyond a single purpose. >
  
  Is safe to lube factory lubed switch?
  I have gateron yellow switch come with factory lubed, but i feel the lube is inconsistent and i want to lube manually, is that safe or should i clean it first?
  I'm new about mechanical keyboard btw, thank you. >
  
  Yes. You can safely lube over already (factory) lubed switches. >
  
  Hi,  i have been lurking in this sub for a while and I really want to make  my first step into this world. I am searching for a quality keyboard  with the following requirements:
  75% (also a 98% could be ok)
  Brown switches
  Customizable  (for the future, I don't really have ideas on how to mod it right now)
  Sub 200 €
  Also would be nice if I could get it from an EU store. Layout doesn't matter.
  Based  on what I have read in this sub, the Q1 seems to be the general advice  considering this list of requirements, but I was wondering if there are  other viable options for a similar price. >
  
  The Q1 has become almost a standard go to first custom keyboard and still is relatively competitive. If you don’t mind having ANSI layout and not ISO I would strongly suggest looking into monsgeek m1 which is virtually the same board but almost twice cheaper. >
  
  Fucking based. +1 on this opinion, OP >
  
  Colors are just colors.
  1.6 and 1.2mm are how thick the PCB they're designed to work for is.
  WK/WKL are how long the spacebar wire is (6.25u or 7u). "Win-Key-Less" boards can have longer spacebars. >
  
  Thank you. That was very informative. >
  
  I have a question. I see some criticizing video about keyboard with led facing nord, and after they said something about keycaps cherry profile, like that keycaps didn't work very well. It is true? I have 2 keyboard base, and all came with led facing up and not down. If it's a problem, it is big? >
  
  There’s more to it than that. Yes Cherry profile keycaps might have interference with north facing PCBs (ie keycap hits the top housing of the switch before the switch is fully pressed/bottomed out resulting in mushy feeling and unpleasant sound) BUT a lot of switches nowadays are long pole or like Gateron Oil King and Aflion Tropical waters have reshaped top housing that prevents the issue described above. I have a few north facing boards myself and it’s not really a problem - just need to be mindful of switches you’re choosing >
  
  So, i have to use specific switch? >
  
  Specific type of switch - most long pole switches will be fine >
  
  Long pole? What do you mean? I have akko, ajazz and gamakay switch, are they long pole? >
  
  First  build of Lily58 Pro so probably learning a lot of things the hard way. After a bunch   of ugly soldering and a couple of redos I got all keys responding and   went to insert switches. The corner thumb switch broke the switch  socket  and it seems to have taken the pad with it. I tried to solder it  back  on but that caused a short circuit with the diode next to it so  now I  wonder what to do next:
  
  De   solder current work, flip PCB and start from scratch (I have socketed   the Pro Micro so should be able to pull it out and just put it in on  the  other side.
  Do   a jumper cable to somewhere else. Not sure where as the pad broken is   the one closest to the diode on the bottom corner thumb switch. I have a   bit of cat 6 cable I might be able to strip and make something.
  Jumper   broken side of switch socket to an unused pad on the choc side of the   PCB (currently using MX but thought if that helps close the circuit?
  Buy a new PCB for $40.
  
  Looking forward to hear your thoughts! >
  
  
  Looking forward to hear your thoughts!  
  
  Not to be glib, but my thought was that r/ergomechkeyboards or the QMK or Ergogen discords would have more people able to help on this particular issue. >
  
  So no one here would have experience soldering or repairing a keyboard you mean? >
  
  Not nobody, but not a very high percentage & even lower of people trawling the questions thread (it's mostly "what beginner board should I get" and "how do i make this thock" type stuff); this place skews more toward row-staggered boards that don't require soldering & aesthetics/sound stuff. In contrast e.g. the QMK discord has a set of pretty active channels devoted to helping out on this sort of stuff, because there's a huge overlap between people building split ortho/ergo boards and people really into QMK. >
  
  That's fair and those divisions make sense too when you put it that way. I shall check out this Discord, thank you! >
  
  No problem, hope you get it figured out!
  also lol just noticed your username is pretty appropriate for this question >
  
  Haha story of my life! >
  
  akko acr 75v2 or keychron v2 or if you have another keyboard kit(i already have swithes and keycaps) >
  
  Monsgeek m1 if you can spend a bit more, otherwise the v2 because stacked acrylic cases aren’t great imo >
  
  What switches are the most similar to cherry mx reds that can fit on a 3 pin outemu board? >
  
  Akko switches are compatible with outemu sockets - they have plenty of different switches not sure which ones are most similar to reds, probably the green matchas >
  
  This is kind of a software question, but it has to do with mechancical keyboards:
  I just got a Keychron V1 and I'm very happy with the keyboard. However, I haven't quite figured out how to use VIA properly.
  VIA detects my keyboard, and every time I try to edit a key, the layout will actually change in the program, but if I press it, it turns out the key I changed hasn't actually changed at all.
  I'm sure this is just a minor issue which I haven't quite wrapped my head around yet, but I'm just seeking for help because I can't seem to find the problem. My current theory is that it has something to do with my Win 10 keyboard layout settings, but I need your opinion on this.
  Thanks in advance! >
  
  Check if you're in Mac mode. The Win/Mac switch changes the "base" layer, so you're probably editing a layer that isn't in use. (which layer is which varies by series i think, but e.g. Mac might be layer 0 and 2, Windows 1 and 3, etc).
  (Mac/Windows in this case just being default layouts, you can set the switch to whichever does layer 0 base and remap it to fit your preferred OS if you don't need to use both interchangably.) >
  
  It worked. Absolute legend. Thank you so much man. Never would have thought of this >
  
  No, unfortunately you can’t change the physical layout >
  
  Does the GK61 have on board memory? And if it does how can I enable it and set a custom colour? >
  
  i was playing aurund in via and then i lost my ö and ä any way of getting them back? >
  
  Look up what keycode produces those characters in your OS (note the "KC_X" names in the bottom of the screen when hovering over a key in VIA, thats the QMK keycode). >
  
  I want to upgrade the style of my Logitech G613, but I have no idea where I can buy fitting keycaps. Any advise would be nice! >
  
  Unfortunately Logitech used their own proprietary switch (not the standard mx style cross) so there are really no keycaps available >
  
  Why? Just why? I was kind of dreading it...
  But the keyboard itself is actually pretty good (from my limited experience) and so I would be reluctant to replace it.... :/ >
  
  Some would argue Drop is maintaining full customization. You get the Base Kit to handle most usages, but if you happen to want a more niche set of legends, you buy those separately. >
  
  Best place to buy a mechanical keyboard in the uk? >
  
  r/MechanicalKeyboardsUK >
  
  I want to “upgrade” my milky yellow pro switches, but I’m stuck between Alpaca V2s and the C3 Tangerines V2. Any opinions on which one is better? >
  
  Either would be a worthy upgrade and are pretty much the OG high end switches you can’t go wrong with. There are many more worthy cheaper options that offer similar or even better performance though imo. Eg KTT Kang Whites or Durock Poms although latter are similar in price to alpacas and tangies. If you don’t like lubing your switches I would highly suggest Aflion Tropical Waters that come pre lubed from factory >
  
  I want to start out with building a custom keyboards but I'm a complete noob in this regard, so I have a few questions.  
  
  Is there a good template for a custom layout, I would like to make a SR/HR/SLO/YU layout because I'm from Serbia? Could you point me in a direction where to look?
  Are there places that offer printing custom layouts to keycaps?
  I would like to have an L-shaped Enter/Return key, do I need to get specific parts for that, or would any board do?
  From which part should I start planning my build?
  
  Thank you in advance. >
  
  u get exactly whats in the pic F key are part of the base kit >
  
  ps/2 >
  
  thanks >
  
  Been going nuts checking out keycaps for my Keychron K8 Pro on the various websites recommended by the nice people here. The keycaps I'm looking for should be:
  
  
  shine through
  
  
  top quality & smooth (I don't like rough textured keycaps) >
  
  
  shine through
  top quality 
  
  gotta pick one or the other here due to how shine thru keycaps are made there is no top quality sets they are super unpopular in the aftermarket >
  
  Hmmm, so what you're saying is that if I want smooth (not rough textured) keycaps, I'll have to sacrifice the shine through aspect ? The K8 does have RGB so I guess, I must do accordingly. Please recommend some smooth, top quality keycaps. Thank you for your reply. >
  
  u can get smooth just saying quality wont be high as shine thru have to be made thin and have a very small profit margin so most after market caps are made cheaply >
  
  That's fine. If I can sacrifice shine through then can I get some smooth caps ? >
  
  hey guys I have a problem I've got a PewDiePies aluminum keyboard from ghost aaand when I plug the cable it work fine but when I put little thing for wireless it doesn't work can you please help me? >
  
  could be defective those ghost kbs are pretty low quality parts wise people are always having issues with them >
  
  Like I plugged it rn with even cable it shows that it's connectuand even after that it doesn't work shall I give them it back? >
  
  i would if u could not much trouble shooting u coudl reach out to them and see if they can help but Ghost is not a product i would recommend to anyone >
  
  Okay thanks alot 🙏 >
  
  Can I trust buying from swag keys?
  I'm getting a Tofu65 keyboard and want some nice thocky tactiles for it, and my friend suggested Gazzew Boba U4s. Can I get them from swagkeys or is it a scam? >
  
  anyone know if the "epomaker mini cat 64" keyboard is the same one on different sites? they all look the same but is there any difference to the one on epomaker? or did they just slap their branding on the back of the case.
  ​
  thanks in advance ❤ >
  
  What would be a good hot-swappable upgrade from the Anne Pro 2? (That doesn't require any soldering)  
  I really like the 60% layout, and since I've remapped the lower right 4 keys to be arrow keys I don't really feel a need for a 65% board, would still consider one though. Budget, anything less than $400 USD I would consider if it was a significant upgrade. My only complaint with the AP2 is that I can't swap in switches (U4), but I also don't really know what I'm missing as well since I haven't used many boards. >
  
  If you have $400 to spend you can get quite a lot of stuff.
  I might actually recommend getting something off the secondary/used market, since a lot of the really fancy stuff is done in limited-run things?
  Main things to look for are mounting style (probably don't want a tray mount at that price range, a decently done gasket or top mount would likely be better), QMK support (most flexible remapping/programming option), hotswap, and then just whatever preference stuff you have (case material, layout, etc.).
  If you know you want U4s, you can probably just get a "barebones" kit so you don't have to pay for switches you won't be using.  
  The easy option (as in, it's good and currently available for purchase) is grabbing a Q series board from Keychron (Q4, or Q2 or maybe Q60* if you're feeling adventurous). If you can find a QK60 from Qwertykeys that's also a good option.
  *Look up the "HHKB" layout if you're curious about this and what people do for arrow keys on it.
  You can also just search this subreddit or r/mechmarket etc for "60%" and see what you find, then look up whatever looks interesting to make sure it's good.
  edit: one thing to note regarding non-QMK boards, is that they may restrict which keys you're allowed to remap, which could be a big wrench in your plans to make the bottom right keys work as arrows. >
  
  Thank you for such great information!  
  Oh yeah, definitely has to support QMK (should have really clarified that). I do also use jikl on layer 1 for arrow keys, but it's nice to have base layer options for things like ctrl+←. Though now that you mention it this is good motivation to get out of that habit and just get used to using the layer. The QK60 is missing (imo) one more key in the lower right corner to allow for that arrow setup, but that's just a me thing. Should probably just get over that :p
  Nice, Q4 was just what I was looking at this morning! In your opinion do you think it would be a noticeable upgrade from the AP2 in terms of typing experience, sound, build quality etc? Of course the hot swap + QMK alone is a big diff.  
  I'll be sure to search the market, thanks - just wasn't sure if there was any particular 60% to watch for. >
  
  
  In your opinion do you think it would be a noticeable upgrade from the AP2 in terms of typing experience, sound, build quality etc?  
  
  Awkward to answer because I don't have an AP2 or a Q4—do have a different Q board & two tray-mount boards similar to AP2 though (looking at prices and googling images of it being taken apart), and would say it's a pretty noticable upgrade in all 3 of those categories.
  
  wasn't sure if there was any particular 60% to watch for.
  
  There's basically an ocean of really nice 60%s, but like almost all of them are small run GB boards so 1) super hard to keep track of, 2) the odds of any one in particular being up for resale is not that high. You could, I suppose, go browse the geekhack GB forum and just like see what's there for ideas though. >
  
  I was thinking about getting the discord keyboard for Christmas.
  I know the price is a lot so i decided to go for a second hand one on Facebook marketplace for £60.
  Is this a good keyboard to get for this price? or are there better ones for this price range? (preferably TKL) >
  
  Great that helps me a lot. Appreciate it! >
  
  Hey guys,
  Recently i’m forced to latenight gaming, but we are currently in a situation where i can’t close the door.
  My girlfriend struggles with noises and my Xtrfy K4 TKL is way too loud for her. Anyone knows of a supersilent mechanical keyboard? From the yt sound tests i can’t see a big difference between cherry mx silent red and my current one, or is the difference notable?
  Thanks in advance for recommendations. >
  
  I've never tried silent linear switches, but any linear switch I have had is about the same noise if not more than tactile switches. However, the silent tactiles I have are super quiet. I recommend the Boba U4's. Build quality of the board does matter too for sound >
  
  forgot, to mention: i'm not a builder just a buyer :D
  edit: but still thanks for the input >
  
  Unless you buy a board with silent reds there aren’t really any other ‘prebuilt’ silent keyboard options. 
  If you’re willing to try putting yourself outside your comfort zone, most prebuilt keyboards from Keychron have hotswap sockets and can be purchased ‘barebones’ without keycaps or switches, which you can then buy and install silent switches yourself. 
  Alternatively, you could buy a prebuilt Keychron, pull out the non-silent switches and put silent ones in while keeping the keycaps. >
  
  Two questions:
  1) Actually how silent is a prebuilt silent board?
  2) If i go out of my comfort can i build a 100% or 99% soundless mechanical keyboard using specific switches?
  Thanks :) >
  
  Can someone recommend me good mechanical keybooard for rhythm games that will not doubleclick? >
  
  You're probably just going to want a mechanical keyboard that has linear switches. I'm going to recommend you find a keyboard that has something like blacks or speed silver switches stock >
  
  Are there any good Norde keycap sets? 
  Looking for something simple and high quality with somewhat thick PBT, preferably ships to the US. >
  
  Many PBTFans sets have international kits. >
  
  does omni point switches from apex pro tkl feel the same as gateron reds? >
  
  they are very close to red s. omnipoint are adjustable to the feel wont be exact unless u adjust them to the same actuation as reds >
  
  Does anyone have any experience using BDZ for lubing stabiliser wire in place with the syringe/needle technique? I've seen videos of people using dielectric and an 18 gauge needle - would an 18 gauge work with BDZ or is the BDZ too thick?
  Also, is it better to try and 'draw up' the BDZ through the needle or to load the syringe from the back?
  Any advice gratefully received! >
  
  i should be able to sux it up just a heads up this method is notorious for having a poor end result usually u end up with poorly lubed stabs that dont achieve what u want or over lubed stabs that wont return on keypress which will only be fixable if u take everything apart and redo it properly >
  
  Fair ;) so I should just bite the bullet and take it all apart then - at least it’s hotswap >
  
  Hi! Just bought an akko keyboard with jelly purple switches, extremely happy with it. But I think they got my order wrong, and I got 2 extra packages of switches lmao, i got really lucky this time, 90 switches for free. I don’t have any experience with keyboards so sorry if i’m making a dumb question. The switches are “wine red”. Are they compatible with any keyboard “base” or i need to buy specifically an akko “base”? And are they compatible with any keycaps or i need to buy specifically akko keycaps? >
  
  In razer synapse you can map Keys like fn+a to output á. Is this possible with VIA and a keychron keyboard? 
  How can this be done without VIA support? Or do I absolutely need a keychron pro? >
  
  language  modifiers like that are determined on the OS side of things last i check no KB software out there can do this not even VIA due to how OS's are programed >
  
  Having trouble putting in Plate mount stabilizers for GMMK2. Is it supposed to go above the plate or stay below. When i try and put it above it only goes halfway and gets stuck >
  
  It should sit overtop the stabilizers. It might be turned the wrong way around. Try putting it in so the wires face the opposite direction to your original position. >
  
  I have it the right way could I send you a picture? >
  
  topography keycaps there are money sets but zero thta are shine thru ( back light ) like that as due to how those keycaps are made small keycaps will be to thin and once they cool from being made they will crack and fall apart >
  
  Thanks a bunch >
  
  My Tecware Phantom keys sometimes don't register, unless I press them carefully. Is there a way to solve this issue? (the "v" and "?" keys both didn't register once while typing this) >
  
  if its hotswap remove the switches and see if the pins are bent or the hotswap sockets are displaced off the back of the pcb . if its not hotswap could be bad switches >
  
  Hello! I'm buying myself a late Christmas present and have chosen to get a new keyboard. I have always had preassembled keyboard (SteelSeries, Corsair, etc.) but have recently gotten an interest for custom keyboards. My use will be using the keyboard for programming and high-level competitive games. I don't want to deal with soldering and want RGB with shine through caps so I can see the keys in the evening. Since I'm lazy I would prefer it to be a DIY kit as i don't want to mess with foam, lube and such. I want stabs and switches prelubed and foam already within the case. However, if I can get better deal/keyboard modding it will be fine. Currently I have been looking at the ZOUYA Tester68, Gateron Pro v2 2.0 Red switches, and SteelSeries PrismCaps Nordic. The reason for the caps are that I want Nordic layout with shine through which I really haven't been able to find. Are there better options for my needs? I'm a bit sketched out by the AliExpress listings, how do I know which seller I can trust? My budget is max 200$ but would like it at 150$ >
  
  Hey, I haven't been in the hobby for a while so do forgive me, I need some recollection of some info.
  I have a two questions I need help in;
  1. My spacebar seems to get stuck after pressing it down, it doesn't pop back up. Oddly enough though it doesn't happen when I'm using a linear switch. (Previous switch was tactile.)
  
  How do you make a board more poppy sounding? I have my keyboard the way I want it, except it doesn't sound as poppy as I would've hoped for.
  
  I know this was lengthy so thanks for reading! >
  
  It sounds to me like your spacebar needs some stabilizer help. They are either not properly installed or assembled, or they are overlubed. Both are reasonably easy to fix, but a bit time consuming because you'll need to take apart the whole board to get at the stabs. 
  Unfortunately, I won't be of much help for the pop sound. >
  
  In lubing a topre board, syringe vs brush? I see buddy OG uses a syringe to put a sesame seed size amount of lube and then brushes it. See, I don't yet have a syringe. Would it be better for me to syringe it? >
  
  Syringe is pretty smart, it's probably to visually see how much lube they're putting before brushing to keep things consistent. Nothing wrong with a brush though, just don't overlube >
  
  What's the best 75% budget prebuilt keyboard? >
  
  The Keychron V1 is a great option >
  
  Corsair k70 rgb pro making a pretty loud ping sound 
  ​
  Brand new >
  
  this is 100% normal its the unlubed stabs and springs in the switches are not lubed either .also the case is hollow . best way to solve this is adding foam to the case modding ur stabs and lubing them . and taking apart ur switches and lubing the springs before u reassemble them and put them back in . this will be the case with 99% of prebuilt kbs >
  
  do you recommend doing this or should I simply try to get used to it first? >
  
  Does anyone know if a BT60 PCB will fit in a Tokyo60 case? >
  
  not sure due to the tokyo60 having blockers on the corner u may have gaps with switch placement and not sure the plate will match the pcb very well . also due ot the toyko60 being an all metal case the bluetooth will not work at all so u wont have wireless >
  
  I'm using the solder version, so I can adapt the key layout. I've used it in a D60. I've used BT60 in other metal cases, and it works. Just trying to figure out if the USBC will line up and if there are any other particulars. >
  
  i have never seen a mech that size that has that many keys on that size of the space bar most kb use a standard layout >
  
  Have a Das keyboard that I really like, but saw a review of the nuphy air75 the other day and that mac to windows switch sounds awesome as I use my setup for my work laptop and desktop with a USB switch (the change in position of ctrl to super is always annoying). My only issue with the nuphy is I don't want 75% layout, I'd like a full keyboard with a numpad.
  Any recs on a board like that? Other things that bother me about the das is no backlight, and hot swappable switches would be great. >
  
  The keychron k4 has a 96% option. Some people bash on keychron but it meets all the requirements you have (plus detachable type c if you didn't want to use bluetooth). It is also one of the few boards that people have actually heard of that is on amazon. >
  
  Thanks man, and it's super affordable. Wish it had a knob too, but I'll give it a shot! >
  
  You should also consider the Keychron V5 (96%) and V6 (100%), which are available with knobs and are also programmable with QMK/VIA. >
  
  do you guys think that the cooler master SK652 is good? At least for a first keyboard? >
  
  
  cooler master SK652 
  
  its ok for a prebuilt low profile switches are generally disliked by most though >
  
  I started off my keyboard journey with the Drevo Gramr V2 TE (Which might be a re-brand of a HeroCool84), then I got addicted to keebs and since then I have fallen into the rabbit hole of mechanical keyboards. I was looking to get a qk65 and put some lubed gateron milky blacks in it but everywhere I looked I couldn't find a single site that had it in stock. I'm in Canada and I am willing to purchase a group buy if there's a round for it.
  I was also looking at the really competitively priced nk65 entry edition and if anyone knows where I could pick one up to that would be really appreciated to (also willing to wait for a gb if there's a round).
  Thanks >
  
  I've been looking around for some purple and black keycaps as it matches with my setup, but I can't seem to find any ones to my liking. Any recommendations? >
  
  akko has a few decent sets around 50 >
  
  How do i download via version 3, cant seem to find anything  online. just got a keychron v3 and the via isnt working. help much appriciated, merry christmas. 
  :) >
  
  try the online version of via! >
  
  i did it still didnt work.
  i dont know what im doing wrong ive tried unplugging and pluggign back in adn it doenst work >
  
  hmm maybe try the downloaded version of via >
  
  i have that version installed, still nothing.
  quite unfortunate
  that seems to be version 2.05 when it seems like theyre on version 3 >
  
  Found this, weird that keychron doesn't tell you this anywhere should work on any via >
  
  i found that as well, downloaded it, loaded it in via, unplugged then replugged, still nothing. Would be really disappointed if i have to send this back in, would have to remove all my switches. >
  
  damn that kinda sucks, have you seen this? >
  
  that seems scary to me man. shit >
  
  yeah if you don't wanna go down that route I don't blame you its something you shouldn't have to worry about in the first place. ffiw I have flashed many boards and its kind of hard to actually brick a pcb, plus the instructions are pretty straight forward.
  Also I have heard if you need a new part from keychron they'll send you the individual pcb in this case as opposed as a whole board so maybe you won't be keyboard-less? (not sure) >
  
  You’re a legend, thanks!! >
  
  Any 75% kits that are around 200-280 cad? Preferably wireless and hotswap >
  
  Newbie first build question:
  Hi guys, I want to build my first keyboard this christmas and I have a question about board latency.
  Is there a huge difference in latency between custom boards and "low latency gaming keyboards"? 
  I cant find anywhere whats the latency of for example some Akko boards I had as an option, and I´m kind of scared that the difference in latency will be huge since I play competitive videogames and therefore benefit from low latency.
  Because of this, one option that I was considering is buying the K70 Pro Mini which has some of the lowest latency in the market according to RTINGS.com (0.4 ms) and then, since its hotswappable, putting my switches and keycaps of choice.
  Thanks for the advice and merry xmas to you all <3 >
  
  most modern kbs latency doesnt affect gaming the difference is so low it doesnt matter there really isnt any acurate way to measure it anyway rtings trys but many of their methods are questionable . but no it wont matter even if u play at world lvl comps kb doesnt give any edge or advantage >
  
  I recently got a Royal Kludge rk68, I plugged it in to change the backlight settings, (it doubles as wireless) and once I put it in wireless mode none of the settings were active, does anybody know how I might be able to fix this? (Edit) I should mention it only fixes itself once I open the software to change it back up. (So I need ot plugged back in) >
  
  What’s the best hotswap keyboard for gaming?
  I’m planning on making a keyboard for my boyfriend and since I’m new to this (just made my first one for nongaming purposes) I’d love some recommendations!
  He already has a good keyboard so I don’t expect him to use it always but I still want the best in case he does!
  Currently looking at the Drop CTRL and GMMK Pro (he likes TKL) >
  
  if your budget is around $200\~ (i assume with the choice of the ctrl/gmmk pro) i'd get him the keychron q3
  Much better value than than the ctrl/gmmk pro.  the q3 is much better out of the box than those two >
  
  I’m willing to pay the price for a good keyboard, I have time to save up money. Thank you for the suggestion i will look into it :) >
  
  It's either a Windows key or the Fn (function) key, and I'd wager it's a Fn key. If you install the Glorious Core software you will be able to set custom layers that are activated by the Fn key. >
  
  I want to buy a Keychron Q1v2 in black, but it's sold out in my country and god knows when will it be restocked, the only ones left are gray. Is it possible for me to buy the gray one and find some sort of service to paint the case and knob black for me? >
  
  I found a Razer BlackWidow V3 Mini on sale for $50. Would this be a good pick or are there any other contenders around that price range? >
  
  Currently on the hunt for new switches-- I am open to either tactile or linear types, but mostly just want the sound profile to be on the quieter side and with some thock. Gotta be 3-pin to fit my current board. I've been hunting around and finding a bunch of different stuff but cant consistently find sound tests for all of them. Any suggestions appreciated! >
  
  Are there any linear switches that sound and feel similar to gateron inks but have less total travel distance but still around 2mm actuation point (or actuation at at least half the total travel distance)? >
  
  thats low profile switch territory aint really much in that market most dont feel great to type on being so short doesnt leave room to make a great switch >
  
  I mean the Gateron Box Ink exists, which for example only has 3,4mm total travel but the actutation at 1.2mm is just too soon so I was wondering if something with a later actuation exists. Doesn't have to be low profile, just less than 4mm total travel even if its just 0.2mm less. >
  
  Bought a MageGee Star84 off Amazon. Plan on working with my son to modify it as a fun project. Outside of lubing switches and stabs, any other mods recommended for this keyboard? >
  
  I need help with the micro usb port in my Drevo calibur keyboard i can’t find any replacement or message anyone since i don’t have karma/new user can someone find somewhere i can get one? please and thank you >
  
  
  micro usb port 
  
  if u just google it tons come up u can compare them msot from digikey should fit and work but i hope u have desoldering and soldering exp this is a project for first timers can be difficult and if u do it wrong ur pcb could end up damaged >
  
  thank you and yeah this will be a first time any advice? >
  
  Is the Keychron K8 a good Keyboard for someone new to mechanical?
  The non-backlit version is only $65.20. This seems like a pretty good price for a mechanical keyboard. What am I missing? >
  
  cant reprogram it basically its main limit >
  
  New keyboard can't hold down keys for too long, after a few seconds they stop registering >
  
  1) Can anyone recommend a good numpad kit? I recently finished my first custom build but realized that I miss my numpad more than I thought I would.
  2) My spacebar occasionally registers two presses, which I believe is called "key chatter". Is there any way for me to fix this?
  3) For some reason my hotswap PCB sometimes registers Print Screen when I press another key too hard (was really only happening when I was installing keycaps, and I've disabled that key for now) - does anyone know why this happens? How would I fix this, if at all, or is it more a matter of "just type lighter"? >
  
  
  keychron q0 >
  
  Hello
  Im an old membrane keyboard user that are finally moving over to mechanical or optical.
  But im not sure which switches that would suit me more.
  As the title say i mostly play those type of games and almost no FPS games.
  A store here has a campaign going on for the Corsair K70 PRO OPX.
  Will those switches be to "fast" for me? >
  
  there so such thing as a "fast switch" they are all the same speed and 100% equal in terms of performance . most steer clear of opticals as they do no have a design standard like regular switches do  . they have zero upsides and only downsides . like optical switches need IR optical readers on the pcb which adds on more layer of electronic that can fail over time . regular switches do not have this so it one less thing to worry about in the long run . personally i stay away from "gamer" brands and thier false fact and get something liek keychron >
  
  Deskmat  was sold alongside the GMK Oni set. u could try to see if any vendors have leftovers but i doubt it >
  
  How do I generate a JSON keymap to make it work with VIA
  again after modifing the QMK code?
  I added more 2 devices in the fast pairing logic to have
  a total of 5 devices on my Keychron K8 Pro, but now VIA
  does not find the device anymore.
  What do I need to do? Do I need to create a new JSON
  file of the keymap? How do I do that? Thanks in advance! >
  
  Does any one know exactly what  type of usb c female socket replace ment show go into the ducky mecha mini ? as in does the # of pins matter and things like this "Right Angle Shield USB-C Support Pins Through Hole"
  I need to repair the usbc port on my KB and i have no experience with things like this so help on parts needed would be nice.  From the standpoint of the usbc part. i have the soder and everything else. >
  
  I'm new to the hobby and want to test out some switches and see what i like (at tech stores around here they just have generic reds on every display board). Does anyone know of a good switch tester with some variety in it/popular switches? >
  
  there are many, many switch testers available. which country do you live in? that could narrow down the possible companies that you can order switch testers from. switch testers are everywhere, so it isn't too hard to get to them. >
  
  I live in the US. What companies would you recommend for switches then? Idk much about which are best >
  
  cannonkeys has linear and tactile switch testers >
  
  Ahh that's exactly what I was looking for! Thank you! >
  
  you're welcome >
  
  I picked up a Tiger Lite and really like it; the sound, build, price, features, RGB, build quality, etc. are perfect.
  Is there a comparable 75% that is readily available? I have a QK75 preorder in, but don’t like that it lacks RGB. The price isn’t a huge deal, but I would prefer something readily available if possible. >
  
  is your main gripe with the qk75 that it lacks rgb? i think that right know, the qk75 is the best thing available. but if you are okay with another gb, the jris75 is going live soon. >
  
  Yeah, either RGB or backlighting because I often use that particular keyboard in darker roomsZ The JRIS looks like it will be up sooner than the upcoming Zoom75 so that may be ideal. I wish there was basically a Tiger 75 but alas… >
  
  odin 75 hehe >
  
  I'm trying to figure out whether to get a Keychron V6 or Q6, but I worry that my desk's keyboard tray might break under the weight of the Q6, it's a tempered glass tray, but I'm not sure if I should be worried about this or not. Any help/advice? >
  
  unless you plan on using the q6 as a device to hit your desk tray with, you shouldn't be worried 
  per the spec sheet the q6 weighs 5.35 pounds (2430g fully assembled) >
  
  Does anyone know of any good keyboards that look like the royal kludge/retro style with backlighting but with a UK layout? Hoping it won't break the bank! >
  
  Will they sell the QK 75 again or at another store? >
  
  you can buy aftermarket, the price is probably gonna be way higher. I don't think there's going to be a resale. you could cross your fingers and hope for raffles, but i really don't think it's gonna happen. >
  
  RESOLVED >
  
  how difficult would it be to make a custom pcb that can use flaretech adomax optical switches? are there any open source or online guides on how to use them? >
  
  100% impossible as there is no standard for optical switches so u would need the private closed source files from flaretech to find out the specs of the pcb those switches would use this is the case for all opticals and will be different for each optical switch . plus last i check pcb printing sites wont source or add on the IR optical readers for those switches . just make a kb with reugalr switches opticals provide no real world benifit over regular switches >
  
  Hi guys!
  I've been eyeing the Ducky One 3 keyboard for a while now. My current keyboard (HyperX Alloy FPS RGB) is still in beautiful condition after 5 years of gaming and paper writing, so it's more a questions of aesthetics and room to upgrade/improve my keyboard experience. I've also never built a keyboard on my own thus far, but felt like I might get into that as the Ducky One is "hot-Swappable mechanical keyboard"?
  What I've been wondering: does anyone of you have that specific keyboard? Is the hot-swap feature worth spending quite a lot of money? Or should I just build my very own keyboard from scratch? >
  
  If you’re interested in building your own you can spend a lot less money and get yourself something with better features than the Ducky. 
  If you don’t want to build the entire thing but want the ability to do a fair amount of customizing, look into a barebones kit (assembled, but you install your own switches and keycaps). Keychron has some good barebones options that don’t cost a ton. >
  
  Hey there,
  I've been looking for a keyboard (looked at mostly keychrons but I just need quality) with these specific requirements :
  French ISO Layout
  TKL or 75%
  Around 150€ maximum
  ​
  Thanks,
  Nox >
  
  Hi everyone! I just joined the community, a total newcomer.
  I've just received a Corsair K70 with Cherry Mx Red switches, but I don't like it, so I would like to change it to something else.
  What I'm looking for:
  - wireless + USB connectivity
  - hot-swappable
  - keyboard 75%, up to 100%
  - tactile switches
  - backlight
  - Compatible with all main OSs (Windows, Linux, macOS)
  (- QWERTY US)
  - Max 200 euros
  I use it mainly for writing, coding and graphics (image editing and 3D modelling). I use Raspberry a lot, so I care about compatibility. Do you have any suggestions? What do you think about the features I'm looking for? >
  
  Check out the K Pro keyboards from Keychron, such as the K8 Pro. The Zoom boards are also worth looking at, like the Zoom TKL EE. >
  
  
  Check out the K Pro keyboards from Keychron, such as the K8 Pro. The Zoom boards are also worth looking at, like the Zoom TKL EE.
  
  I've just run into the Keychron K Pro series, it's amazing. Just a bit annoying the keycaps that are not shine-through, but I can just change the keycaps, right? >
  
  You can easily change the keycaps, but keep in mind that the K Pro series have south-facing LEDs, while most shine-through keycaps are designed for north-facing  LEDs. Therefore, if you put typical shine-through keycaps on a board with south-facing LEDs, the shine-through legends on the keycaps won't be illuminated very well because the LEDs are not directly underneath those legends.
  There are some keycap sets that work well on boards with south-facing LEDs, as they have the legends on the south-facing wall of the keycaps, close to the LEDs. (Often called "side-printed"). >
  
  Was building my gmmk pro with gmk samurai's and when I was near done I realised that the left shift (I bought the tki version to save some $$$), alt, ctrl, and fn keys all don't have key caps that fit. I can't stand having something from a different set in the place of them that doesn't match. If there are any other options of sets I could use to fill that in I would love to know about them. Also this is my first custom keeb. Thanks! >
  
  If possible, I suggest returning the TKL kit and buying the full set of the keycaps. Any other solution involves using mis-matched keycaps. >
  
  Shit, I threw away some of the packaging. Guess I’ll have to figure out something with mismatched caps that looks okay. Wish someone had extras from the full set that I could buy. Oh well, thanks anyways. >
  
  Can anyone who's purchased the Mammoth75 with the wireless m3 pcb let me know how the wireless function is? Is there an on off switch? If you've used an m1 or m2 how does the m3 sound compare? Thank you >
  
  Hey y'all, I think within a week ago I saw a giveaway for some really sweet wave themed OEM key caps. I saved the post so I could find the site later to check out the size of the mouse pad that goes with it and see about ordering some stuff with my xmas money. But it is nowhere in my saved posts. 
  I remember them being white with a wave art over the caps, very pretty and reasonably priced, I think $35 USD. Any help would be awesome lads, or if there is a similar set you think I would love, let me know. I still love my Idabao but feel like getting some new caps. >
  
  Has anyone used the Mekanisk Klippe T Polycarbonate R4 since im looking at buying one but can't find any videos on the polycarb version of the board and was wondering if it is a good case and if i can remove the standoffs without any worry since I'm using a gummy O ring mounted board >
  
  Hello. I just got my first mechanical keyboard and was trying to do something with the RGB colors in VIA. I thought I'd start by changing the color of the SOLID profile (all keys one static color) from the default of red to pink, This worked, but then I realized that in every one of my keyboard's 15+ RGB profiles red had been replaced with pink. I was just wondering if this is normal behavior, and if so how would I go about changing any of the other colors, other than red? The keyboard is a Keychron Q1 V2 if that matters. >
  
  I just got the GMMK Pro keyboard. Does anyone have a guide for the keycap sizes? My current keycaps don’t quite fit >
  
  You'll want to find a keycap set with a 1.5u (or maybe it's 1.75u?) right shift and 1u right ctrl, alt, win. Spacebar is a standard 6.25u
  What keycaps don't fit? >
  
  It's 1.75u right shift. >
  
  I am a bit overwhelmed and just need a decent extended numpad. I got a K65 Mini Keyboard from Corsair and wanted to get the pad with the arrow keys and the function buttons (prtscn, page up, page down, ect), but have absolutely no idea what to get. I tried going through the wiki but that was a lot and pretty quickly overwhelmed me;; This isn't my first mechanical keyboard, but the first one I plan to try and customize at least. >
  
  What can I get in the way of a 75% keyboard under $100. I am willing to build/assemble if I need >
  
  I'm looking to get into making custom keyboards but don't know where to start. I already have a keyboard the pulsar lunar alloy pk001. And was looking at getting some keycaps but don't really know what to look at because some have a 90 dollar difference for something I don't see. Then with switches I got brown switches I think if I remember correctly. Just where do I start and look. >
  
  which keyboards do you consider that are a step higher than keychron's Q1/Q2? >
  
  Where can I find any ISO layout 75% keyboard in the US? I know where to get the keycaps for latin American Spanish layout. AliExpress or anyother site is fine, but preferably Amazon. >
  
  I've been using a WASD Code with Cherry greens for something like 8 years now. A few keycaps are worn to the point where the cross is becoming visible which seems like a good excuse to finally upgrade. I'm a fan of the 1800 layout and after a bit of searching on here the Keychron Q5 and GMMK2 are my favorites(and the SK98 but after switches/keycaps that one is a little too much). I'd go with pro blue switches on the Q5 and probably box whites for the GMMK. Can anyone offer advice or comparisons between the two? Also, what's the deal with coiled cables? Is it just aesthetics? >
  
  I'd get the keychron q5 
  via support out of the box + beefy build quality (full alu case)
  Some people just like fancy looking cables so yeah just aesthetics >
  
  which switches should i get? im building my first custom, and i have the nk87 entry and i like really deep thocky and smooth/creamy sounds, i am planning on doing a tempest mod, pe foam mod, and holee mod to help with deepening the sound and making it sound less high pitched. my options i have considered have been: ktt strawberrys , thic thock marshmallows , cream yellow akkos , i am planning to use xda keycaps for a deeper sound but if oem does not affect it too much i would like to get some as well. i also want a nice push feeling of the key. thank you! >
  
  i recently got a fizz redragon keyboard with hotswappable switches. are they only hotswappable with other redragon switches or any other switches? >
  
  I let my friend borrow my keyboard and he slams keys pretty hard as he has a very old Logi keyboard. Explained you shouldn't do that to him (he proceeded to do it anyways of course), and now my spacebar is sticking. Any help/known fixes? >
  
  How do you use the “sticky”?? >
  
  DISCLAIMER: DO NOT ATTEMPT (Seriously)
  Ez bro just apply generous amounts of krytox 205g0 lube and then just use it as shaving cream for your privates or for your face/body >
  
  Hi, im new at keyboards, and please, i want to know what type of keyboard or base or a thing like this i can use to put on a Gateron milky yellow switches.
  And if i have anne pro 2 keyboard and i want to change the switches to the gateron milky yellow, i have to unsolder the old ones?
  Thanks >
  
  I don't know if the anne 2 pro is hot swap or not,so just buy a switch puller and check. If the switch came out, it's an hot swap keyboard, if no you have to unsolder the old one. The gateron milky Yellow are mechanical or optical? If mechanical, all of the keyboard and keyboard base work, if optical only few keyboard work with that switch >
  
  iam looking for a mech keyboard preferable with aluminium frame, hot swappable 75% with knob and support also wireless. By searching the Google I found the Ketchron Q1, GMMK Pro and Sense75. All of the seems top brands and it is what iam looking but unfortunately it's only wired. Any suggestions for a similar Mech Keyboard that is also wireless? >
  
  Keychron Q1 Pro will be released soon which is essentially a Q1 with wireless. You might be able to find QK75 extras once it gets delivered (group buy ended a couple weeks ago), also zoom 75 will be released late q1 2023 as well as Jris75 >
  
  QK65 vs Keychron Q2? >
  
  QK65 - white and black with mirror weight will be restocked in January