comment: >
  
  thanks
context: Is there a software available where I can check if all my switches are working? I use a tofu dz60rgb >
  
  You don't need software... you can just use an online checker, like the one on QMK config.   Or, just use a generic keyboard test site like this. >
  
  Do I need 2 knobs? or just 1 knob is enough?
  I want to buy keyboard macro (Macropad) and there is a choice: keyboard macro with 1 knob or with 2 knobs but I don't know other use of knobs beside sound volume and scrolling 
  (I think scrolling not very useful in knob if I have mouse wheel). So is 2 knobs are useful or one is enough? >
  
  That is a question only you can answer. In addition to some uses listed here, a rotary encoder can be used for several things:
  
  arrow up/down
  arrow left/right
  mouse wheel up/down
  changing layers on the macropad
  Photoshop zoom in/out
  Photoshop increase/decrease brush size >
  
  Thank you so much, I didn't know about that much stuff I can do with knobs. >
  
  Good Afternoon,
  Obviously new to the QMK side of things. Recently picked up a TIDBIT as a cheaper entry point into the QMK landscape to see its viability for my work. I am provisioning thousands of PC's a week and have automated a lot of processes with the Code v3 TKL and 104-key, to a lesser degree the Pok3r Vortex as well.
  My original purchase was made after looking at this thread here. The issue I hit is that the individual in question had linked his/her example and that link is now dead.
  Basically one of the key functions that I cant emulate on the Code v3 is repeating F2 or F12 for booting my systems (often 300 or so at a time) without someone actually hitting F2/F12. After sleuthing the net, this looks to be termed as "AutoFire", where you can toggle for a key to be repeatedly entered until toggled to stop.
  Any direction or assistance to achieve to this would be greatly appreciated.
  Thanks! >
  
  personally dont know of any kb or software that can do this . all kbs and software have a limit of how many times u can include a keypress in a macro even rapidfire style will have a time out of a min or so >
  
  Thanks for chiming in, I do appreciate it.  
  Then is it possible to string macros into a sequence to continually repeat until the layer is switched or simply unplugged? This device appears to have 15 layers in the QMK configurator so sacrificing one would still allow for a production device beyond a single purpose. >
  
  Is safe to lube factory lubed switch?
  I have gateron yellow switch come with factory lubed, but i feel the lube is inconsistent and i want to lube manually, is that safe or should i clean it first?
  I'm new about mechanical keyboard btw, thank you. >
  
  Yes. You can safely lube over already (factory) lubed switches. >
  
  Hi,  i have been lurking in this sub for a while and I really want to make  my first step into this world. I am searching for a quality keyboard  with the following requirements:
  75% (also a 98% could be ok)
  Brown switches
  Customizable  (for the future, I don't really have ideas on how to mod it right now)
  Sub 200 €
  Also would be nice if I could get it from an EU store. Layout doesn't matter.
  Based  on what I have read in this sub, the Q1 seems to be the general advice  considering this list of requirements, but I was wondering if there are  other viable options for a similar price. >
  
  The Q1 has become almost a standard go to first custom keyboard and still is relatively competitive. If you don’t mind having ANSI layout and not ISO I would strongly suggest looking into monsgeek m1 which is virtually the same board but almost twice cheaper. >
  
  Fucking based. +1 on this opinion, OP >
  
  Colors are just colors.
  1.6 and 1.2mm are how thick the PCB they're designed to work for is.
  WK/WKL are how long the spacebar wire is (6.25u or 7u). "Win-Key-Less" boards can have longer spacebars. >
  
  Thank you. That was very informative. >
  
  I have a question. I see some criticizing video about keyboard with led facing nord, and after they said something about keycaps cherry profile, like that keycaps didn't work very well. It is true? I have 2 keyboard base, and all came with led facing up and not down. If it's a problem, it is big? >
  
  There’s more to it than that. Yes Cherry profile keycaps might have interference with north facing PCBs (ie keycap hits the top housing of the switch before the switch is fully pressed/bottomed out resulting in mushy feeling and unpleasant sound) BUT a lot of switches nowadays are long pole or like Gateron Oil King and Aflion Tropical waters have reshaped top housing that prevents the issue described above. I have a few north facing boards myself and it’s not really a problem - just need to be mindful of switches you’re choosing >
  
  So, i have to use specific switch? >
  
  Specific type of switch - most long pole switches will be fine >
  
  Long pole? What do you mean? I have akko, ajazz and gamakay switch, are they long pole? >
  
  First  build of Lily58 Pro so probably learning a lot of things the hard way. After a bunch   of ugly soldering and a couple of redos I got all keys responding and   went to insert switches. The corner thumb switch broke the switch  socket  and it seems to have taken the pad with it. I tried to solder it  back  on but that caused a short circuit with the diode next to it so  now I  wonder what to do next:
  
  De   solder current work, flip PCB and start from scratch (I have socketed   the Pro Micro so should be able to pull it out and just put it in on  the  other side.
  Do   a jumper cable to somewhere else. Not sure where as the pad broken is   the one closest to the diode on the bottom corner thumb switch. I have a   bit of cat 6 cable I might be able to strip and make something.
  Jumper   broken side of switch socket to an unused pad on the choc side of the   PCB (currently using MX but thought if that helps close the circuit?
  Buy a new PCB for $40.
  
  Looking forward to hear your thoughts! >
  
  
  Looking forward to hear your thoughts!  
  
  Not to be glib, but my thought was that r/ergomechkeyboards or the QMK or Ergogen discords would have more people able to help on this particular issue. >
  
  So no one here would have experience soldering or repairing a keyboard you mean? >
  
  Not nobody, but not a very high percentage & even lower of people trawling the questions thread (it's mostly "what beginner board should I get" and "how do i make this thock" type stuff); this place skews more toward row-staggered boards that don't require soldering & aesthetics/sound stuff. In contrast e.g. the QMK discord has a set of pretty active channels devoted to helping out on this sort of stuff, because there's a huge overlap between people building split ortho/ergo boards and people really into QMK. >
  
  That's fair and those divisions make sense too when you put it that way. I shall check out this Discord, thank you! >
  
  No problem, hope you get it figured out!
  also lol just noticed your username is pretty appropriate for this question >
  
  Haha story of my life! >
  
  akko acr 75v2 or keychron v2 or if you have another keyboard kit(i already have swithes and keycaps) >
  
  Monsgeek m1 if you can spend a bit more, otherwise the v2 because stacked acrylic cases aren’t great imo >
  
  What switches are the most similar to cherry mx reds that can fit on a 3 pin outemu board? >
  
  Akko switches are compatible with outemu sockets - they have plenty of different switches not sure which ones are most similar to reds, probably the green matchas >
  
  This is kind of a software question, but it has to do with mechancical keyboards:
  I just got a Keychron V1 and I'm very happy with the keyboard. However, I haven't quite figured out how to use VIA properly.
  VIA detects my keyboard, and every time I try to edit a key, the layout will actually change in the program, but if I press it, it turns out the key I changed hasn't actually changed at all.
  I'm sure this is just a minor issue which I haven't quite wrapped my head around yet, but I'm just seeking for help because I can't seem to find the problem. My current theory is that it has something to do with my Win 10 keyboard layout settings, but I need your opinion on this.
  Thanks in advance! >
  
  Check if you're in Mac mode. The Win/Mac switch changes the "base" layer, so you're probably editing a layer that isn't in use. (which layer is which varies by series i think, but e.g. Mac might be layer 0 and 2, Windows 1 and 3, etc).
  (Mac/Windows in this case just being default layouts, you can set the switch to whichever does layer 0 base and remap it to fit your preferred OS if you don't need to use both interchangably.) >
  
  It worked. Absolute legend. Thank you so much man. Never would have thought of this >
  
  No, unfortunately you can’t change the physical layout >
  
  Does the GK61 have on board memory? And if it does how can I enable it and set a custom colour? >
  
  i was playing aurund in via and then i lost my ö and ä any way of getting them back? >
  
  Look up what keycode produces those characters in your OS (note the "KC_X" names in the bottom of the screen when hovering over a key in VIA, thats the QMK keycode). >
  
  I want to upgrade the style of my Logitech G613, but I have no idea where I can buy fitting keycaps. Any advise would be nice! >
  
  Unfortunately Logitech used their own proprietary switch (not the standard mx style cross) so there are really no keycaps available >
  
  Why? Just why? I was kind of dreading it...
  But the keyboard itself is actually pretty good (from my limited experience) and so I would be reluctant to replace it.... :/ >
  
  Some would argue Drop is maintaining full customization. You get the Base Kit to handle most usages, but if you happen to want a more niche set of legends, you buy those separately. >
  
  Best place to buy a mechanical keyboard in the uk? >
  
  r/MechanicalKeyboardsUK >
  
  I want to “upgrade” my milky yellow pro switches, but I’m stuck between Alpaca V2s and the C3 Tangerines V2. Any opinions on which one is better? >
  
  Either would be a worthy upgrade and are pretty much the OG high end switches you can’t go wrong with. There are many more worthy cheaper options that offer similar or even better performance though imo. Eg KTT Kang Whites or Durock Poms although latter are similar in price to alpacas and tangies. If you don’t like lubing your switches I would highly suggest Aflion Tropical Waters that come pre lubed from factory >
  
  I want to start out with building a custom keyboards but I'm a complete noob in this regard, so I have a few questions.  
  
  Is there a good template for a custom layout, I would like to make a SR/HR/SLO/YU layout because I'm from Serbia? Could you point me in a direction where to look?
  Are there places that offer printing custom layouts to keycaps?
  I would like to have an L-shaped Enter/Return key, do I need to get specific parts for that, or would any board do?
  From which part should I start planning my build?
  
  Thank you in advance. >
  
  u get exactly whats in the pic F key are part of the base kit >
  
  ps/2