comment: >
  
  I have it the right way could I send you a picture?
context: Is there a software available where I can check if all my switches are working? I use a tofu dz60rgb >
  
  You don't need software... you can just use an online checker, like the one on QMK config.   Or, just use a generic keyboard test site like this. >
  
  Do I need 2 knobs? or just 1 knob is enough?
  I want to buy keyboard macro (Macropad) and there is a choice: keyboard macro with 1 knob or with 2 knobs but I don't know other use of knobs beside sound volume and scrolling 
  (I think scrolling not very useful in knob if I have mouse wheel). So is 2 knobs are useful or one is enough? >
  
  That is a question only you can answer. In addition to some uses listed here, a rotary encoder can be used for several things:
  
  arrow up/down
  arrow left/right
  mouse wheel up/down
  changing layers on the macropad
  Photoshop zoom in/out
  Photoshop increase/decrease brush size >
  
  Thank you so much, I didn't know about that much stuff I can do with knobs. >
  
  Good Afternoon,
  Obviously new to the QMK side of things. Recently picked up a TIDBIT as a cheaper entry point into the QMK landscape to see its viability for my work. I am provisioning thousands of PC's a week and have automated a lot of processes with the Code v3 TKL and 104-key, to a lesser degree the Pok3r Vortex as well.
  My original purchase was made after looking at this thread here. The issue I hit is that the individual in question had linked his/her example and that link is now dead.
  Basically one of the key functions that I cant emulate on the Code v3 is repeating F2 or F12 for booting my systems (often 300 or so at a time) without someone actually hitting F2/F12. After sleuthing the net, this looks to be termed as "AutoFire", where you can toggle for a key to be repeatedly entered until toggled to stop.
  Any direction or assistance to achieve to this would be greatly appreciated.
  Thanks! >
  
  personally dont know of any kb or software that can do this . all kbs and software have a limit of how many times u can include a keypress in a macro even rapidfire style will have a time out of a min or so >
  
  Thanks for chiming in, I do appreciate it.  
  Then is it possible to string macros into a sequence to continually repeat until the layer is switched or simply unplugged? This device appears to have 15 layers in the QMK configurator so sacrificing one would still allow for a production device beyond a single purpose. >
  
  Is safe to lube factory lubed switch?
  I have gateron yellow switch come with factory lubed, but i feel the lube is inconsistent and i want to lube manually, is that safe or should i clean it first?
  I'm new about mechanical keyboard btw, thank you. >
  
  Yes. You can safely lube over already (factory) lubed switches. >
  
  Hi,  i have been lurking in this sub for a while and I really want to make  my first step into this world. I am searching for a quality keyboard  with the following requirements:
  75% (also a 98% could be ok)
  Brown switches
  Customizable  (for the future, I don't really have ideas on how to mod it right now)
  Sub 200 €
  Also would be nice if I could get it from an EU store. Layout doesn't matter.
  Based  on what I have read in this sub, the Q1 seems to be the general advice  considering this list of requirements, but I was wondering if there are  other viable options for a similar price. >
  
  The Q1 has become almost a standard go to first custom keyboard and still is relatively competitive. If you don’t mind having ANSI layout and not ISO I would strongly suggest looking into monsgeek m1 which is virtually the same board but almost twice cheaper. >
  
  Fucking based. +1 on this opinion, OP >
  
  Colors are just colors.
  1.6 and 1.2mm are how thick the PCB they're designed to work for is.
  WK/WKL are how long the spacebar wire is (6.25u or 7u). "Win-Key-Less" boards can have longer spacebars. >
  
  Thank you. That was very informative. >
  
  I have a question. I see some criticizing video about keyboard with led facing nord, and after they said something about keycaps cherry profile, like that keycaps didn't work very well. It is true? I have 2 keyboard base, and all came with led facing up and not down. If it's a problem, it is big? >
  
  There’s more to it than that. Yes Cherry profile keycaps might have interference with north facing PCBs (ie keycap hits the top housing of the switch before the switch is fully pressed/bottomed out resulting in mushy feeling and unpleasant sound) BUT a lot of switches nowadays are long pole or like Gateron Oil King and Aflion Tropical waters have reshaped top housing that prevents the issue described above. I have a few north facing boards myself and it’s not really a problem - just need to be mindful of switches you’re choosing >
  
  So, i have to use specific switch? >
  
  Specific type of switch - most long pole switches will be fine >
  
  Long pole? What do you mean? I have akko, ajazz and gamakay switch, are they long pole? >
  
  First  build of Lily58 Pro so probably learning a lot of things the hard way. After a bunch   of ugly soldering and a couple of redos I got all keys responding and   went to insert switches. The corner thumb switch broke the switch  socket  and it seems to have taken the pad with it. I tried to solder it  back  on but that caused a short circuit with the diode next to it so  now I  wonder what to do next:
  
  De   solder current work, flip PCB and start from scratch (I have socketed   the Pro Micro so should be able to pull it out and just put it in on  the  other side.
  Do   a jumper cable to somewhere else. Not sure where as the pad broken is   the one closest to the diode on the bottom corner thumb switch. I have a   bit of cat 6 cable I might be able to strip and make something.
  Jumper   broken side of switch socket to an unused pad on the choc side of the   PCB (currently using MX but thought if that helps close the circuit?
  Buy a new PCB for $40.
  
  Looking forward to hear your thoughts! >
  
  
  Looking forward to hear your thoughts!  
  
  Not to be glib, but my thought was that r/ergomechkeyboards or the QMK or Ergogen discords would have more people able to help on this particular issue. >
  
  So no one here would have experience soldering or repairing a keyboard you mean? >
  
  Not nobody, but not a very high percentage & even lower of people trawling the questions thread (it's mostly "what beginner board should I get" and "how do i make this thock" type stuff); this place skews more toward row-staggered boards that don't require soldering & aesthetics/sound stuff. In contrast e.g. the QMK discord has a set of pretty active channels devoted to helping out on this sort of stuff, because there's a huge overlap between people building split ortho/ergo boards and people really into QMK. >
  
  That's fair and those divisions make sense too when you put it that way. I shall check out this Discord, thank you! >
  
  No problem, hope you get it figured out!
  also lol just noticed your username is pretty appropriate for this question >
  
  Haha story of my life! >
  
  akko acr 75v2 or keychron v2 or if you have another keyboard kit(i already have swithes and keycaps) >
  
  Monsgeek m1 if you can spend a bit more, otherwise the v2 because stacked acrylic cases aren’t great imo >
  
  What switches are the most similar to cherry mx reds that can fit on a 3 pin outemu board? >
  
  Akko switches are compatible with outemu sockets - they have plenty of different switches not sure which ones are most similar to reds, probably the green matchas >
  
  This is kind of a software question, but it has to do with mechancical keyboards:
  I just got a Keychron V1 and I'm very happy with the keyboard. However, I haven't quite figured out how to use VIA properly.
  VIA detects my keyboard, and every time I try to edit a key, the layout will actually change in the program, but if I press it, it turns out the key I changed hasn't actually changed at all.
  I'm sure this is just a minor issue which I haven't quite wrapped my head around yet, but I'm just seeking for help because I can't seem to find the problem. My current theory is that it has something to do with my Win 10 keyboard layout settings, but I need your opinion on this.
  Thanks in advance! >
  
  Check if you're in Mac mode. The Win/Mac switch changes the "base" layer, so you're probably editing a layer that isn't in use. (which layer is which varies by series i think, but e.g. Mac might be layer 0 and 2, Windows 1 and 3, etc).
  (Mac/Windows in this case just being default layouts, you can set the switch to whichever does layer 0 base and remap it to fit your preferred OS if you don't need to use both interchangably.) >
  
  It worked. Absolute legend. Thank you so much man. Never would have thought of this >
  
  No, unfortunately you can’t change the physical layout >
  
  Does the GK61 have on board memory? And if it does how can I enable it and set a custom colour? >
  
  i was playing aurund in via and then i lost my ö and ä any way of getting them back? >
  
  Look up what keycode produces those characters in your OS (note the "KC_X" names in the bottom of the screen when hovering over a key in VIA, thats the QMK keycode). >
  
  I want to upgrade the style of my Logitech G613, but I have no idea where I can buy fitting keycaps. Any advise would be nice! >
  
  Unfortunately Logitech used their own proprietary switch (not the standard mx style cross) so there are really no keycaps available >
  
  Why? Just why? I was kind of dreading it...
  But the keyboard itself is actually pretty good (from my limited experience) and so I would be reluctant to replace it.... :/ >
  
  Some would argue Drop is maintaining full customization. You get the Base Kit to handle most usages, but if you happen to want a more niche set of legends, you buy those separately. >
  
  Best place to buy a mechanical keyboard in the uk? >
  
  r/MechanicalKeyboardsUK >
  
  I want to “upgrade” my milky yellow pro switches, but I’m stuck between Alpaca V2s and the C3 Tangerines V2. Any opinions on which one is better? >
  
  Either would be a worthy upgrade and are pretty much the OG high end switches you can’t go wrong with. There are many more worthy cheaper options that offer similar or even better performance though imo. Eg KTT Kang Whites or Durock Poms although latter are similar in price to alpacas and tangies. If you don’t like lubing your switches I would highly suggest Aflion Tropical Waters that come pre lubed from factory >
  
  I want to start out with building a custom keyboards but I'm a complete noob in this regard, so I have a few questions.  
  
  Is there a good template for a custom layout, I would like to make a SR/HR/SLO/YU layout because I'm from Serbia? Could you point me in a direction where to look?
  Are there places that offer printing custom layouts to keycaps?
  I would like to have an L-shaped Enter/Return key, do I need to get specific parts for that, or would any board do?
  From which part should I start planning my build?
  
  Thank you in advance. >
  
  u get exactly whats in the pic F key are part of the base kit >
  
  ps/2 >
  
  thanks >
  
  Been going nuts checking out keycaps for my Keychron K8 Pro on the various websites recommended by the nice people here. The keycaps I'm looking for should be:
  
  
  shine through
  
  
  top quality & smooth (I don't like rough textured keycaps) >
  
  
  shine through
  top quality 
  
  gotta pick one or the other here due to how shine thru keycaps are made there is no top quality sets they are super unpopular in the aftermarket >
  
  Hmmm, so what you're saying is that if I want smooth (not rough textured) keycaps, I'll have to sacrifice the shine through aspect ? The K8 does have RGB so I guess, I must do accordingly. Please recommend some smooth, top quality keycaps. Thank you for your reply. >
  
  u can get smooth just saying quality wont be high as shine thru have to be made thin and have a very small profit margin so most after market caps are made cheaply >
  
  That's fine. If I can sacrifice shine through then can I get some smooth caps ? >
  
  hey guys I have a problem I've got a PewDiePies aluminum keyboard from ghost aaand when I plug the cable it work fine but when I put little thing for wireless it doesn't work can you please help me? >
  
  could be defective those ghost kbs are pretty low quality parts wise people are always having issues with them >
  
  Like I plugged it rn with even cable it shows that it's connectuand even after that it doesn't work shall I give them it back? >
  
  i would if u could not much trouble shooting u coudl reach out to them and see if they can help but Ghost is not a product i would recommend to anyone >
  
  Okay thanks alot 🙏 >
  
  Can I trust buying from swag keys?
  I'm getting a Tofu65 keyboard and want some nice thocky tactiles for it, and my friend suggested Gazzew Boba U4s. Can I get them from swagkeys or is it a scam? >
  
  anyone know if the "epomaker mini cat 64" keyboard is the same one on different sites? they all look the same but is there any difference to the one on epomaker? or did they just slap their branding on the back of the case.
  ​
  thanks in advance ❤ >
  
  What would be a good hot-swappable upgrade from the Anne Pro 2? (That doesn't require any soldering)  
  I really like the 60% layout, and since I've remapped the lower right 4 keys to be arrow keys I don't really feel a need for a 65% board, would still consider one though. Budget, anything less than $400 USD I would consider if it was a significant upgrade. My only complaint with the AP2 is that I can't swap in switches (U4), but I also don't really know what I'm missing as well since I haven't used many boards. >
  
  If you have $400 to spend you can get quite a lot of stuff.
  I might actually recommend getting something off the secondary/used market, since a lot of the really fancy stuff is done in limited-run things?
  Main things to look for are mounting style (probably don't want a tray mount at that price range, a decently done gasket or top mount would likely be better), QMK support (most flexible remapping/programming option), hotswap, and then just whatever preference stuff you have (case material, layout, etc.).
  If you know you want U4s, you can probably just get a "barebones" kit so you don't have to pay for switches you won't be using.  
  The easy option (as in, it's good and currently available for purchase) is grabbing a Q series board from Keychron (Q4, or Q2 or maybe Q60* if you're feeling adventurous). If you can find a QK60 from Qwertykeys that's also a good option.
  *Look up the "HHKB" layout if you're curious about this and what people do for arrow keys on it.
  You can also just search this subreddit or r/mechmarket etc for "60%" and see what you find, then look up whatever looks interesting to make sure it's good.
  edit: one thing to note regarding non-QMK boards, is that they may restrict which keys you're allowed to remap, which could be a big wrench in your plans to make the bottom right keys work as arrows. >
  
  Thank you for such great information!  
  Oh yeah, definitely has to support QMK (should have really clarified that). I do also use jikl on layer 1 for arrow keys, but it's nice to have base layer options for things like ctrl+←. Though now that you mention it this is good motivation to get out of that habit and just get used to using the layer. The QK60 is missing (imo) one more key in the lower right corner to allow for that arrow setup, but that's just a me thing. Should probably just get over that :p
  Nice, Q4 was just what I was looking at this morning! In your opinion do you think it would be a noticeable upgrade from the AP2 in terms of typing experience, sound, build quality etc? Of course the hot swap + QMK alone is a big diff.  
  I'll be sure to search the market, thanks - just wasn't sure if there was any particular 60% to watch for. >
  
  
  In your opinion do you think it would be a noticeable upgrade from the AP2 in terms of typing experience, sound, build quality etc?  
  
  Awkward to answer because I don't have an AP2 or a Q4—do have a different Q board & two tray-mount boards similar to AP2 though (looking at prices and googling images of it being taken apart), and would say it's a pretty noticable upgrade in all 3 of those categories.
  
  wasn't sure if there was any particular 60% to watch for.
  
  There's basically an ocean of really nice 60%s, but like almost all of them are small run GB boards so 1) super hard to keep track of, 2) the odds of any one in particular being up for resale is not that high. You could, I suppose, go browse the geekhack GB forum and just like see what's there for ideas though. >
  
  I was thinking about getting the discord keyboard for Christmas.
  I know the price is a lot so i decided to go for a second hand one on Facebook marketplace for £60.
  Is this a good keyboard to get for this price? or are there better ones for this price range? (preferably TKL) >
  
  Great that helps me a lot. Appreciate it! >
  
  Hey guys,
  Recently i’m forced to latenight gaming, but we are currently in a situation where i can’t close the door.
  My girlfriend struggles with noises and my Xtrfy K4 TKL is way too loud for her. Anyone knows of a supersilent mechanical keyboard? From the yt sound tests i can’t see a big difference between cherry mx silent red and my current one, or is the difference notable?
  Thanks in advance for recommendations. >
  
  I've never tried silent linear switches, but any linear switch I have had is about the same noise if not more than tactile switches. However, the silent tactiles I have are super quiet. I recommend the Boba U4's. Build quality of the board does matter too for sound >
  
  forgot, to mention: i'm not a builder just a buyer :D
  edit: but still thanks for the input >
  
  Unless you buy a board with silent reds there aren’t really any other ‘prebuilt’ silent keyboard options. 
  If you’re willing to try putting yourself outside your comfort zone, most prebuilt keyboards from Keychron have hotswap sockets and can be purchased ‘barebones’ without keycaps or switches, which you can then buy and install silent switches yourself. 
  Alternatively, you could buy a prebuilt Keychron, pull out the non-silent switches and put silent ones in while keeping the keycaps. >
  
  Two questions:
  1) Actually how silent is a prebuilt silent board?
  2) If i go out of my comfort can i build a 100% or 99% soundless mechanical keyboard using specific switches?
  Thanks :) >
  
  Can someone recommend me good mechanical keybooard for rhythm games that will not doubleclick? >
  
  You're probably just going to want a mechanical keyboard that has linear switches. I'm going to recommend you find a keyboard that has something like blacks or speed silver switches stock >
  
  Are there any good Norde keycap sets? 
  Looking for something simple and high quality with somewhat thick PBT, preferably ships to the US. >
  
  Many PBTFans sets have international kits. >
  
  does omni point switches from apex pro tkl feel the same as gateron reds? >
  
  they are very close to red s. omnipoint are adjustable to the feel wont be exact unless u adjust them to the same actuation as reds >
  
  Does anyone have any experience using BDZ for lubing stabiliser wire in place with the syringe/needle technique? I've seen videos of people using dielectric and an 18 gauge needle - would an 18 gauge work with BDZ or is the BDZ too thick?
  Also, is it better to try and 'draw up' the BDZ through the needle or to load the syringe from the back?
  Any advice gratefully received! >
  
  i should be able to sux it up just a heads up this method is notorious for having a poor end result usually u end up with poorly lubed stabs that dont achieve what u want or over lubed stabs that wont return on keypress which will only be fixable if u take everything apart and redo it properly >
  
  Fair ;) so I should just bite the bullet and take it all apart then - at least it’s hotswap >
  
  Hi! Just bought an akko keyboard with jelly purple switches, extremely happy with it. But I think they got my order wrong, and I got 2 extra packages of switches lmao, i got really lucky this time, 90 switches for free. I don’t have any experience with keyboards so sorry if i’m making a dumb question. The switches are “wine red”. Are they compatible with any keyboard “base” or i need to buy specifically an akko “base”? And are they compatible with any keycaps or i need to buy specifically akko keycaps? >
  
  In razer synapse you can map Keys like fn+a to output á. Is this possible with VIA and a keychron keyboard? 
  How can this be done without VIA support? Or do I absolutely need a keychron pro? >
  
  language  modifiers like that are determined on the OS side of things last i check no KB software out there can do this not even VIA due to how OS's are programed >
  
  Having trouble putting in Plate mount stabilizers for GMMK2. Is it supposed to go above the plate or stay below. When i try and put it above it only goes halfway and gets stuck >
  
  It should sit overtop the stabilizers. It might be turned the wrong way around. Try putting it in so the wires face the opposite direction to your original position.