comment: >
  
  Sounds to me like the R key has been assigned the reset function or a Fn key or some key combo/macro is triggering when you press R to cause the reset. What's weird is that the reset should put all key assignments back to default. Have you checked VIA for what the R key is assigned to and if it has any functions on different layers? 
  If you're able to re-flash the board I suggest trying that if you haven't already.
context: What should I get? Akko CS Jelly Blacks/Matcha Greens or Gateron G Pro 2.0 Yellows or Gateron Phantom Yellows? And where should I buy them from Romania? >
  
  For vendors, candykeys.com, keygem.store, 42keebs, mykeyboard.eu
  Regarding switches, I think all would be fine, didn't try them except older Gateron Yellow >
  
  What makes a keyboard have a good reaction time? What specs make a good gaming keyboard? >
  
  There are no "good gaming keyboards" for the most part they are all fine for gaming. The only thing that's a step above are hall-effect switches but you don't need those to be  decent in gaming. There's tons of pros who use customs. >
  
  I’d love to get my husband some sort of case- not for a specific keyboard but for all of his spare parts, tools, etc. Any recommendations? >
  
  Have a look at our store.
  My wife makes keyboard sleeves and also various pouches for bits and bobs. The Flatpack and Hold Pouches are popular pairings with sleeves for coiled cabes, wireless mice, etc. >
  
  I’ll check it out- thank you!! >
  
  Just purchased an EP84, didn’t realise it was also wireless at 2.4GHz. This is suffice for online gaming without noticeable latency right? >
  
  I'd use it wired if you care about proper gaming with no latency. >
  
  Hey guys,
  I wonder if you experts could help me out. 
  I'm ready to start my Keyboard Journey but only if this special requirement can be fulfilled: a stable 2,4 Ghz connection without noticeable lag over 3 metres.
  I read a lot of reviews over different mechas here but it was rarely spoken about the WiFi connectivity and input lag.
  Does such a keyboard exist at all or do i have to buy an overpriced big brand keyboard with hyperspeed/lightspeed etc.?
  Appreciate your help. >
  
  I just did a test of my Keydous NJ80 over wireless from over ten feet away through a wall.  Seem to work fine.  I tried even farther away with a clear path and also seems to work fine. >
  
  Guess I'll try again... Anyone know any good budget QMK/VIA/VIAL/ZMK capable wireless rechargeable barebone hot swap capable keyboard with a numpad & north facing RGB that's preferably RF connectivity while a knob would be optional, but preferred? Hoping to not have to spend much more than 100$ for one, but guessing that's unlikely at this point... Wouldn't mind buying off aliexpress if necessary.
  I've already seen the keychron and epomaker option, but they both have South facing LED while the epomaker only is QMK/VIA in wired mode. I would stick with my RK 98, but I really don't like the placement of the end key yet I can't change it without getting rid of another key since it's fn+PgDn now and I'm unable to change the function combos. If someone knew if there was a way I could somehow rekey something to fn+any key that would also help to, but I'm guessing someone would've suggested that already if there was a way >
  
  
  I've already seen the keychron and epomaker option, but they both have South facing LED while the epomaker only is QMK/VIA in wired mode.
  
  Do you really need to use QMK/VIA in wireless mode?  You could do any desired remapping in wired mode, then disconnect the cable and use it wirelessly. >
  
  Does it retain the changes in wireless mouse? If it does that's fine... Although I think I found an alternative method to map keys that will work where I'm using shift, crrl, or alt since they're close enough to the fn key. Still would prefer if I could just change the fn key option though
  Edit: NVM didn't work for some reason >
  
  VIA saves its changes to the board itself, so if you aren't running VIA, or if you move the keyboard to a different computer altogether, all the VIA changes are still present. >
  
  Hi! I am new to this whole Mech Keyboard Topic. I am looking for a all white wireless 75% hot swappable GB KB with 2.4ghz for ~150€ with German layout.
  1 was looking into nuphy halo75 but after some digging it seems the
  2.4ghz receiver seems to be bs and the software behind the board is still in beta.
  I know have seen these boards:
  • gmmk pro (it's not white it's silver -> bummer)
  • pc75b (not sure if it is pure white)
  • keychron k4 and k8 (no white version?)
  Right now I am overwhelmed by the options. Looks is also a big factor that's why I almost pulled the trigger on the halo75.
  Thanks for the help in advance! >
  
  Second to this but white isn't an issue >
  
  Dont really know much about low profiles, but i think the nuphy keycaps might have some interference with cherry like keycaps. If you go for the brutal v2 maybe try going with some silent switches I think you might want it silent switches for work and get a keycap set with dsa profile which is lower than cherry profile. >
  
  I didn't even realize there were standardized keycap profiles - thanks! >
  
  hi! i'm looking at a Anne Pro 2 for $100 CAD with cherry XM brown switches. is this a good deal? >
  
  Older model, non hotswap, poor quality switches... Not a terrible deal but not good at all. >
  
  What's the best place to order some Gateron Silver Pro switches in the US? I found some on Amazon, but they ship very slowly. Other sites so far either don't have them even listed, or they have them listed but they're sold out. Alternatively, would anyone else recommend a different but similar switch that is maybe easier/cheaper to get?
  Bonus question: Is there a way to repair/replace switch pins after they bend and break? I'm doing several hotswap builds where I have unfortunately broken a lot of switches. They all have one leg that's a bit too short to make contact when going through the case. If they went in through just the PCB they might work. Everything on the switch is good aside from the pin/leg issue, so it seems like a waste to not use them for anything. I do always try to unbend them and insert them again, but sometimes they just snap off when unbent because they've gotten too weak. Especially if they've bent multiple times. >
  
  I actually am familiar with that site and went through a few on there earlier. I was just wondering if anyone had a more specific rec so I didn't have to go through the entire list. >
  
  Hey everyone, i bought rk84, but i'm thinking about returning it and buying v1, what do you think, will it be upgrade? Im programmer, i need arrows for sure, v1 doesn't have end button, which i'm using sometimes. Please help me choose, one of the downsides of rk84 is also that i can't find any info about it's polling rate, which matters for me too, because i'm also gamer. Forgot to mention that i got one of the newest rk84 batches, with foam between pcb and plate >
  
  If you know what polling rate rk84 is, please let me know below :) >
  
  Polling rate on keyboards is a marketing gimmick, ignore it >
  
  Man, silent tactiles feel so much like membrane keyboards, while tactiles feel great but too loud for normal use >
  
  Haimu Whisper silent tactile switches are supposed to have a better feel. I am trying to get some to try out, but my local supplier is currently out of stock. >
  
  I’ll check that out, thanks >
  
  Hey guys, I am getting a bit crazy here. I am looking for a low-profile, full-sized (with numpads), hot-swappable mechanical ISO keyboard. Surely it can't be THAT hard to find? I am currently using an MX mechanical and in terms of haptics it's good. One switch sometimes double triggers and because you can't switch them, you can't really fix that. So my next keyboard should definitely be hot-swappable. I am willing to sacrifice wireless connectivity and I don't need a backlit keyboard.
  The Keychron K5 ticks almost all of those boxes, except they don't make it in an ISO layout. Is there a similar option? I'm going crazy trying to find that, despite being willing to compromise already. Is that such a unicorn? >
  
  The k7 and k3 fit everything i think >
  
  Apologies, I somehow forgot to mention "full-sized" :( I just edited that in my post. That's the part making it so difficult. If only the K5 was available with an ISO layout, I'd be a happy camper. >
  
  Hi all, please help me out here. I'm looking for a 68 keys/65% keyboard recommendation and I haven't been able to find one that matches all my requirements, which are:
  - Aluminium + Hotswappable + Gasket mounted
  - Has a layout like the Tofu 65/keychron K6. You can see where I'm going with this. I don't like keyboards with gaps in between the keys, nor a knob. Otherwise the Ajazz AC067 Triple Modes would have been right up my alley.
  - Wireless with Bluetooth capabilities, better if there's multi-device support. I don't like cables :)
  - Nice-to-haves: PC plate, having feet with different heights, south-facing LEDs, comes with case foams and plate foams, screw down stabilizers  
  P.S I don't mind 84 keys as well. Please leave your recommendations below. Thank you! >
  
  Have you looked at the Zoom65? >
  
  It's beautiful but I don't like the space beside the arrow keys and I prefer no knob. Don't see a need for it. >
  
  I'm looking for long pole switches for my tester68. How do I know if a switch has a long pole? Actuation travel? Total travel? >
  
  Total travel distance is a good indicator (long poles usually have < 4mm total travel distance) but it’s not always the case anymore. >
  
  Oh I thought longer total travel mean longer pole >
  
  The longer the pole, the more space it would take up resulting in less space left for movement. >
  
  Hi, i tried googling but i can't seem to find any keyboards that comes with a a trackpad / touchpad for mouse cursor control, while there are smart TV keyboards like the logitech K400+, those does leave a lot more to be desired. Since im going to use it in a small space and mostly for programming, which i don't use the mouse much, i really want to look for an all in one solution rather than a separate trackpad / touchpad if possible. Cause there aren't a lot of great ones for windows and many i know added community made drivers just to use Apple magic trackpad for windows lol. >
  
  Look into the ultimate hacking keyboard! I've used one and I'd fully recommend it if you don't mind a split keyboard. You'd have to buy the added trackpad module, though, so it is a bit pricy.
  Aside from this, I found the Cherry Compact with touchpad on amazon (haven't tried it), but there's not really any other options outside of buying something non-mechanical, like the k400 you mentioned, or doing some crazy DIY project. >
  
  Heyo!
  I‘ve been looking a bit into mechanical keyboards and I found very little keycap options in a swiss layout and barebones kits are very expensive because of the shipping. I‘ve now almost certainly decided to get a Keychron V1 or Q1, and while trying to find out if there’s a wireless option of the two i stumbled across the Keychron Q1 Pro. I don't think it‘s possible to buy it anywhere yet, but if it were possible to get that keyboard with a swiss keycap option, i‘d certainly get that one. How big are the chances of Keychron providing the option to get the Q1 Pro with a swiss Keycap layout? And if they were to provide that option, is there any way to estimate how long it might take for that option to be available and in-stock? >
  
  Hey guys. Is a Logitech G815 worth like 95 dollars? >
  
  Yes, your switches are soldered, not hot swappable. >
  
  Glad to hear you fixed it! >
  
  Can the latency of the Keychron K2 V2 be improved?
  I was wondering if there is some kind of mod or something to improve the wired latency because it is a little worse than dedicated "gaming" keyboards. >
  
  It will pretty much always be worse than dedicated gaming keyboards because they are optimized and designed for that. But we're talking a few ms. Pretty minor at the end of the day.
  You can try changing your debounce algorithm to eager with QMK or just lowering debounce time to help. Probably just going to have to live with how the K2 V2 latency is though, can't really be 'modded'. If you use a USB hub you can skip that and plug directly into PC for potential minor benefit but we're talking imperceivable amounts here. >
  
  Sold all my oil kings with my QK65 and looking for a new linear for my next board. Really liked my oil kings but want to try something different. Going on a Mode Sonnet. I prefer a heavier switch and want something as smooth/smoother than lubed oil kings.  No real budget. Thank you! >
  
  Pretty much anything made by Aflion is a good choice. Pink Robins are really nice. 
  You could also get the Gateron Cream Soda or Gazzew LT
  Have you considered looking into a spring swap? There are many different types of springs that might appeal to you more than what comes in switches, and sometimes the aftermarket springs are better quality >
  
  Anyone knows where to buy cherry profile wooden keycaps ? Need a spacebar one 1st row key a ansi enter and arrow keys of possible! 
  Also if anyone has some experiences with wooden keycaps reviews would be highly apriciated! >
  
  is it possible to make a custom led animation on an akko keyboard ? >
  
  i tried using the akko driver but i didn't found anything >
  
  Hey all!
  I have a Filco Majestouch 2 TKL. I was cleaning it and scratched the plate beneath the keys. It's not visible since it's below a keycap. Any issues with not fixing it? Corrosion or rusting? Can also put some touch up paint on it if I need to
  Thanks for the opinions! >
  
  Nah no need to worry unless you live in a super humid environment and even then unless your keyboard is always getting wet rust is a non-issue. If it really bothers you you can use some steel wool, fine grit sandpaper or other material to get rid of it. I recommend you don't do this with the switches and PCB still attached of course so you'd need to disassemble and desolder first. Whether it's worth it or not is up to you. >
  
  hello, i'm wanting to get my first mech keyboard and really interested into the 96% format, particularly the keychron K4. however i definitely want to go for blank keycaps, as i'm typing on a mapping for wich their doesn't seem to be any good keycaps (iso-be), and might switch between different mapping. but it looks a bit complex to make sure keycaps for 96% are compatible with the key sizes. do you know any 96% that can be purchased with blank keycaps directly, or either blank keycaps compatible with the keychron K4, preferably PBS. thank you!! >
  
  I think you mean PBT and not PBS.
  Since you're just buying blanks it should be even easier to cover a 96% just fine and no longer having to worry about profiles and legends.
  For a K4 just make sure you have a 1.75u RSHIFT and enough 1u modifiers to the right of the SPACEBAR and the top right row of the keyboard.
  There are plenty of blank PBT keycaps on Amazon, Etsy, AliExpress, etc. You can also buy some from Signature Plastics over on pimpmykeyboard.com as well in different profiles from DSA to XDA or even SA and DCS. >
  
  Switches like Kailh box browns, but with a little more force?
  I'm looking for a new set of switches for my Ducky One 3. The regular Kailh browns just aren't tactile enough for me; they feel too "loose". 
  I have a UHKv2 with box browns that is better...but I'd like something even a bit more tactile / a bit more force. 
  Recommendations for tactile, perhaps linear, switches with a bit more force than Kailh box browns? >
  
  Try some Boba U4T switches maybe. >
  
  nope way to thick. just be safe and get krytox 205g0 >
  
  I live in uk, and i cant find any krytox. How do i know which lube to get? How do i know how thick it is and how thick it should be? Would vaseline work? >
  
  Does anyone know if there is anywhere else in Europe or the UK that has a keyboard kit builder like Mechboards UK has? They are out of stock of a lot of the bits I like, but I am keen on the idea of buying it all from one place knowing it’s compatible. Thanks. >
  
  I suggest replacing that plate (probably aluminum?) with this POM plate from KeyboardKustoms which is designed for the RK84. There are ways to remove rust and prevent it from happening again, but it might be easier to just replace the plate. >
  
  Hi guys. I want to make my own custom keyboard, but after a quick search on the Internet I saw that this can be quite expensive for someone who doesn't want to spend more than $50 on a keyboard.
  I would like to know if it is possible to buy a regular mechanical keyboard, then do the customization? (I would just change the switches and keycaps). >
  
  Save up a little bit more and get something like a Keychron V series and mod that.
  You can get a barebone Keychron V2 for a little over $60. Add some switches and keycaps and mod when you have the funds or just use it stock. >
  
  this one looks good, thanks bro >
  
  Does anybody ever tried to use heat shrink band as a stab mod ?
  Thin heat shrink band might prevent the wobbling and reduce the clack on the PCB kind of like the band aid right ? Plus it would perfectly fit the stabs. >
  
  I searched "keyboard heat shrink mod" on Youtube and got a few results. >
  
  I just checked but I'll have to try myself on a cheap keeb now. >
  
  Quick question: I have a self-built corne which I use at work. It was working fine (except the last few days the a-key would sometimes not register. Then suddenly my coworker/boss knocked over a glass of water all over my desk and a few drops got on the keyboard. Since then, the Q/A/Z column isn't working. The rest of the keyboard works fine, just that one column completely doesn't register anymore. I've removed the switches and tested them in a different spots - the switches are working fine.
  Would the problem be more likely in the hot-swappable sockets or resistors of that column, or the one pin on the Elite-C which they are connected to? >
  
  Most likely a diode shorted out at a guess. >
  
  Hey guys! I just wanted to give a quick thanks to the community for suggesting the Keychron Q6. I got it in today and it's incredible! It has successfully replaced my older Razer Blackwidow.
  ​
  I have a question regarding using the VIA software to customize the keyboard. The software was installed successfully and I was able to play around with some of the Underglow Effect(s) under the Lighting tab. Unfortunately, a few of them are not working as intended. Instead, they are just showing me a static rainbow effect (All of the reactive effects and some others). Do you guys know what causes this and how to resolve it? >
  
  Hey guys I got a zoom tkl ee and for some reason when I press the r key it resets my board anyone else having this problem or knows how to fix?