comment: >
  
  Any feedback on Keychron Silent Pros? Any pros and cons? Also, what's a silent switch that you can recommend that's not too expensive and the travel is not too short?
context: What should I get? Akko CS Jelly Blacks/Matcha Greens or Gateron G Pro 2.0 Yellows or Gateron Phantom Yellows? And where should I buy them from Romania? >
  
  For vendors, candykeys.com, keygem.store, 42keebs, mykeyboard.eu
  Regarding switches, I think all would be fine, didn't try them except older Gateron Yellow >
  
  What makes a keyboard have a good reaction time? What specs make a good gaming keyboard? >
  
  There are no "good gaming keyboards" for the most part they are all fine for gaming. The only thing that's a step above are hall-effect switches but you don't need those to be  decent in gaming. There's tons of pros who use customs. >
  
  I’d love to get my husband some sort of case- not for a specific keyboard but for all of his spare parts, tools, etc. Any recommendations? >
  
  Have a look at our store.
  My wife makes keyboard sleeves and also various pouches for bits and bobs. The Flatpack and Hold Pouches are popular pairings with sleeves for coiled cabes, wireless mice, etc. >
  
  I’ll check it out- thank you!! >
  
  Just purchased an EP84, didn’t realise it was also wireless at 2.4GHz. This is suffice for online gaming without noticeable latency right? >
  
  I'd use it wired if you care about proper gaming with no latency. >
  
  Hey guys,
  I wonder if you experts could help me out. 
  I'm ready to start my Keyboard Journey but only if this special requirement can be fulfilled: a stable 2,4 Ghz connection without noticeable lag over 3 metres.
  I read a lot of reviews over different mechas here but it was rarely spoken about the WiFi connectivity and input lag.
  Does such a keyboard exist at all or do i have to buy an overpriced big brand keyboard with hyperspeed/lightspeed etc.?
  Appreciate your help. >
  
  I just did a test of my Keydous NJ80 over wireless from over ten feet away through a wall.  Seem to work fine.  I tried even farther away with a clear path and also seems to work fine. >
  
  Guess I'll try again... Anyone know any good budget QMK/VIA/VIAL/ZMK capable wireless rechargeable barebone hot swap capable keyboard with a numpad & north facing RGB that's preferably RF connectivity while a knob would be optional, but preferred? Hoping to not have to spend much more than 100$ for one, but guessing that's unlikely at this point... Wouldn't mind buying off aliexpress if necessary.
  I've already seen the keychron and epomaker option, but they both have South facing LED while the epomaker only is QMK/VIA in wired mode. I would stick with my RK 98, but I really don't like the placement of the end key yet I can't change it without getting rid of another key since it's fn+PgDn now and I'm unable to change the function combos. If someone knew if there was a way I could somehow rekey something to fn+any key that would also help to, but I'm guessing someone would've suggested that already if there was a way >
  
  
  I've already seen the keychron and epomaker option, but they both have South facing LED while the epomaker only is QMK/VIA in wired mode.
  
  Do you really need to use QMK/VIA in wireless mode?  You could do any desired remapping in wired mode, then disconnect the cable and use it wirelessly. >
  
  Does it retain the changes in wireless mouse? If it does that's fine... Although I think I found an alternative method to map keys that will work where I'm using shift, crrl, or alt since they're close enough to the fn key. Still would prefer if I could just change the fn key option though
  Edit: NVM didn't work for some reason >
  
  VIA saves its changes to the board itself, so if you aren't running VIA, or if you move the keyboard to a different computer altogether, all the VIA changes are still present. >
  
  Hi! I am new to this whole Mech Keyboard Topic. I am looking for a all white wireless 75% hot swappable GB KB with 2.4ghz for ~150€ with German layout.
  1 was looking into nuphy halo75 but after some digging it seems the
  2.4ghz receiver seems to be bs and the software behind the board is still in beta.
  I know have seen these boards:
  • gmmk pro (it's not white it's silver -> bummer)
  • pc75b (not sure if it is pure white)
  • keychron k4 and k8 (no white version?)
  Right now I am overwhelmed by the options. Looks is also a big factor that's why I almost pulled the trigger on the halo75.
  Thanks for the help in advance! >
  
  Second to this but white isn't an issue >
  
  Dont really know much about low profiles, but i think the nuphy keycaps might have some interference with cherry like keycaps. If you go for the brutal v2 maybe try going with some silent switches I think you might want it silent switches for work and get a keycap set with dsa profile which is lower than cherry profile. >
  
  I didn't even realize there were standardized keycap profiles - thanks! >
  
  hi! i'm looking at a Anne Pro 2 for $100 CAD with cherry XM brown switches. is this a good deal? >
  
  Older model, non hotswap, poor quality switches... Not a terrible deal but not good at all. >
  
  What's the best place to order some Gateron Silver Pro switches in the US? I found some on Amazon, but they ship very slowly. Other sites so far either don't have them even listed, or they have them listed but they're sold out. Alternatively, would anyone else recommend a different but similar switch that is maybe easier/cheaper to get?
  Bonus question: Is there a way to repair/replace switch pins after they bend and break? I'm doing several hotswap builds where I have unfortunately broken a lot of switches. They all have one leg that's a bit too short to make contact when going through the case. If they went in through just the PCB they might work. Everything on the switch is good aside from the pin/leg issue, so it seems like a waste to not use them for anything. I do always try to unbend them and insert them again, but sometimes they just snap off when unbent because they've gotten too weak. Especially if they've bent multiple times. >
  
  I actually am familiar with that site and went through a few on there earlier. I was just wondering if anyone had a more specific rec so I didn't have to go through the entire list. >
  
  Hey everyone, i bought rk84, but i'm thinking about returning it and buying v1, what do you think, will it be upgrade? Im programmer, i need arrows for sure, v1 doesn't have end button, which i'm using sometimes. Please help me choose, one of the downsides of rk84 is also that i can't find any info about it's polling rate, which matters for me too, because i'm also gamer. Forgot to mention that i got one of the newest rk84 batches, with foam between pcb and plate >
  
  If you know what polling rate rk84 is, please let me know below :) >
  
  Polling rate on keyboards is a marketing gimmick, ignore it >
  
  Man, silent tactiles feel so much like membrane keyboards, while tactiles feel great but too loud for normal use >
  
  Haimu Whisper silent tactile switches are supposed to have a better feel. I am trying to get some to try out, but my local supplier is currently out of stock. >
  
  I’ll check that out, thanks >
  
  Hey guys, I am getting a bit crazy here. I am looking for a low-profile, full-sized (with numpads), hot-swappable mechanical ISO keyboard. Surely it can't be THAT hard to find? I am currently using an MX mechanical and in terms of haptics it's good. One switch sometimes double triggers and because you can't switch them, you can't really fix that. So my next keyboard should definitely be hot-swappable. I am willing to sacrifice wireless connectivity and I don't need a backlit keyboard.
  The Keychron K5 ticks almost all of those boxes, except they don't make it in an ISO layout. Is there a similar option? I'm going crazy trying to find that, despite being willing to compromise already. Is that such a unicorn? >
  
  The k7 and k3 fit everything i think >
  
  Apologies, I somehow forgot to mention "full-sized" :( I just edited that in my post. That's the part making it so difficult. If only the K5 was available with an ISO layout, I'd be a happy camper. >
  
  Hi all, please help me out here. I'm looking for a 68 keys/65% keyboard recommendation and I haven't been able to find one that matches all my requirements, which are:
  - Aluminium + Hotswappable + Gasket mounted
  - Has a layout like the Tofu 65/keychron K6. You can see where I'm going with this. I don't like keyboards with gaps in between the keys, nor a knob. Otherwise the Ajazz AC067 Triple Modes would have been right up my alley.
  - Wireless with Bluetooth capabilities, better if there's multi-device support. I don't like cables :)
  - Nice-to-haves: PC plate, having feet with different heights, south-facing LEDs, comes with case foams and plate foams, screw down stabilizers  
  P.S I don't mind 84 keys as well. Please leave your recommendations below. Thank you! >
  
  Have you looked at the Zoom65? >
  
  It's beautiful but I don't like the space beside the arrow keys and I prefer no knob. Don't see a need for it. >
  
  I'm looking for long pole switches for my tester68. How do I know if a switch has a long pole? Actuation travel? Total travel? >
  
  Total travel distance is a good indicator (long poles usually have < 4mm total travel distance) but it’s not always the case anymore. >
  
  Oh I thought longer total travel mean longer pole >
  
  The longer the pole, the more space it would take up resulting in less space left for movement. >
  
  Hi, i tried googling but i can't seem to find any keyboards that comes with a a trackpad / touchpad for mouse cursor control, while there are smart TV keyboards like the logitech K400+, those does leave a lot more to be desired. Since im going to use it in a small space and mostly for programming, which i don't use the mouse much, i really want to look for an all in one solution rather than a separate trackpad / touchpad if possible. Cause there aren't a lot of great ones for windows and many i know added community made drivers just to use Apple magic trackpad for windows lol. >
  
  Look into the ultimate hacking keyboard! I've used one and I'd fully recommend it if you don't mind a split keyboard. You'd have to buy the added trackpad module, though, so it is a bit pricy.
  Aside from this, I found the Cherry Compact with touchpad on amazon (haven't tried it), but there's not really any other options outside of buying something non-mechanical, like the k400 you mentioned, or doing some crazy DIY project. >
  
  Heyo!
  I‘ve been looking a bit into mechanical keyboards and I found very little keycap options in a swiss layout and barebones kits are very expensive because of the shipping. I‘ve now almost certainly decided to get a Keychron V1 or Q1, and while trying to find out if there’s a wireless option of the two i stumbled across the Keychron Q1 Pro. I don't think it‘s possible to buy it anywhere yet, but if it were possible to get that keyboard with a swiss keycap option, i‘d certainly get that one. How big are the chances of Keychron providing the option to get the Q1 Pro with a swiss Keycap layout? And if they were to provide that option, is there any way to estimate how long it might take for that option to be available and in-stock? >
  
  Hey guys. Is a Logitech G815 worth like 95 dollars? >
  
  Yes, your switches are soldered, not hot swappable. >
  
  Glad to hear you fixed it! >
  
  Can the latency of the Keychron K2 V2 be improved?
  I was wondering if there is some kind of mod or something to improve the wired latency because it is a little worse than dedicated "gaming" keyboards. >
  
  It will pretty much always be worse than dedicated gaming keyboards because they are optimized and designed for that. But we're talking a few ms. Pretty minor at the end of the day.
  You can try changing your debounce algorithm to eager with QMK or just lowering debounce time to help. Probably just going to have to live with how the K2 V2 latency is though, can't really be 'modded'. If you use a USB hub you can skip that and plug directly into PC for potential minor benefit but we're talking imperceivable amounts here. >
  
  Sold all my oil kings with my QK65 and looking for a new linear for my next board. Really liked my oil kings but want to try something different. Going on a Mode Sonnet. I prefer a heavier switch and want something as smooth/smoother than lubed oil kings.  No real budget. Thank you! >
  
  Pretty much anything made by Aflion is a good choice. Pink Robins are really nice. 
  You could also get the Gateron Cream Soda or Gazzew LT
  Have you considered looking into a spring swap? There are many different types of springs that might appeal to you more than what comes in switches, and sometimes the aftermarket springs are better quality >
  
  Anyone knows where to buy cherry profile wooden keycaps ? Need a spacebar one 1st row key a ansi enter and arrow keys of possible! 
  Also if anyone has some experiences with wooden keycaps reviews would be highly apriciated! >
  
  is it possible to make a custom led animation on an akko keyboard ? >
  
  i tried using the akko driver but i didn't found anything >
  
  Hey all!
  I have a Filco Majestouch 2 TKL. I was cleaning it and scratched the plate beneath the keys. It's not visible since it's below a keycap. Any issues with not fixing it? Corrosion or rusting? Can also put some touch up paint on it if I need to
  Thanks for the opinions! >
  
  Nah no need to worry unless you live in a super humid environment and even then unless your keyboard is always getting wet rust is a non-issue. If it really bothers you you can use some steel wool, fine grit sandpaper or other material to get rid of it. I recommend you don't do this with the switches and PCB still attached of course so you'd need to disassemble and desolder first. Whether it's worth it or not is up to you. >
  
  hello, i'm wanting to get my first mech keyboard and really interested into the 96% format, particularly the keychron K4. however i definitely want to go for blank keycaps, as i'm typing on a mapping for wich their doesn't seem to be any good keycaps (iso-be), and might switch between different mapping. but it looks a bit complex to make sure keycaps for 96% are compatible with the key sizes. do you know any 96% that can be purchased with blank keycaps directly, or either blank keycaps compatible with the keychron K4, preferably PBS. thank you!! >
  
  I think you mean PBT and not PBS.
  Since you're just buying blanks it should be even easier to cover a 96% just fine and no longer having to worry about profiles and legends.
  For a K4 just make sure you have a 1.75u RSHIFT and enough 1u modifiers to the right of the SPACEBAR and the top right row of the keyboard.
  There are plenty of blank PBT keycaps on Amazon, Etsy, AliExpress, etc. You can also buy some from Signature Plastics over on pimpmykeyboard.com as well in different profiles from DSA to XDA or even SA and DCS. >
  
  Switches like Kailh box browns, but with a little more force?
  I'm looking for a new set of switches for my Ducky One 3. The regular Kailh browns just aren't tactile enough for me; they feel too "loose". 
  I have a UHKv2 with box browns that is better...but I'd like something even a bit more tactile / a bit more force. 
  Recommendations for tactile, perhaps linear, switches with a bit more force than Kailh box browns? >
  
  Try some Boba U4T switches maybe. >
  
  nope way to thick. just be safe and get krytox 205g0 >
  
  I live in uk, and i cant find any krytox. How do i know which lube to get? How do i know how thick it is and how thick it should be? Would vaseline work? >
  
  Does anyone know if there is anywhere else in Europe or the UK that has a keyboard kit builder like Mechboards UK has? They are out of stock of a lot of the bits I like, but I am keen on the idea of buying it all from one place knowing it’s compatible. Thanks. >
  
  I suggest replacing that plate (probably aluminum?) with this POM plate from KeyboardKustoms which is designed for the RK84. There are ways to remove rust and prevent it from happening again, but it might be easier to just replace the plate. >
  
  Hi guys. I want to make my own custom keyboard, but after a quick search on the Internet I saw that this can be quite expensive for someone who doesn't want to spend more than $50 on a keyboard.
  I would like to know if it is possible to buy a regular mechanical keyboard, then do the customization? (I would just change the switches and keycaps). >
  
  Save up a little bit more and get something like a Keychron V series and mod that.
  You can get a barebone Keychron V2 for a little over $60. Add some switches and keycaps and mod when you have the funds or just use it stock. >
  
  this one looks good, thanks bro >
  
  Does anybody ever tried to use heat shrink band as a stab mod ?
  Thin heat shrink band might prevent the wobbling and reduce the clack on the PCB kind of like the band aid right ? Plus it would perfectly fit the stabs. >
  
  I searched "keyboard heat shrink mod" on Youtube and got a few results. >
  
  I just checked but I'll have to try myself on a cheap keeb now. >
  
  Quick question: I have a self-built corne which I use at work. It was working fine (except the last few days the a-key would sometimes not register. Then suddenly my coworker/boss knocked over a glass of water all over my desk and a few drops got on the keyboard. Since then, the Q/A/Z column isn't working. The rest of the keyboard works fine, just that one column completely doesn't register anymore. I've removed the switches and tested them in a different spots - the switches are working fine.
  Would the problem be more likely in the hot-swappable sockets or resistors of that column, or the one pin on the Elite-C which they are connected to? >
  
  Most likely a diode shorted out at a guess. >
  
  Hey guys! I just wanted to give a quick thanks to the community for suggesting the Keychron Q6. I got it in today and it's incredible! It has successfully replaced my older Razer Blackwidow.
  ​
  I have a question regarding using the VIA software to customize the keyboard. The software was installed successfully and I was able to play around with some of the Underglow Effect(s) under the Lighting tab. Unfortunately, a few of them are not working as intended. Instead, they are just showing me a static rainbow effect (All of the reactive effects and some others). Do you guys know what causes this and how to resolve it? >
  
  Hey guys I got a zoom tkl ee and for some reason when I press the r key it resets my board anyone else having this problem or knows how to fix? >
  
  Sounds to me like the R key has been assigned the reset function or a Fn key or some key combo/macro is triggering when you press R to cause the reset. What's weird is that the reset should put all key assignments back to default. Have you checked VIA for what the R key is assigned to and if it has any functions on different layers? 
  If you're able to re-flash the board I suggest trying that if you haven't already. >
  
  the sapcebar on my keyboard wont go back up unless i reverse the spacebar >
  
  stock keycaps ? >
  
  Hello I am looking for an upgrade/new keyboard from my G710 pro , would like similar switches cherry mx brown but perhaps a keyboard without the numpad , any sugestions? >
  
  Definitely check out the KBDfans Tiger Lite and Keychron V3. Grab some Invokeys Blueberry Chiffon switches and a set of keycaps and you're golden. >
  
  I want to buy my first mechanical keyboard but am not sure on which one to buy. I heard that the keychron k8 pro is good . Is that my best option or should I look for something else.(budget: around 100$) >
  
  The K Pro series is pretty good. If you don't need Bluetooth support you might be able to save a few dollars by getting a V series keyboard instead (same thing, looks different and is wired only)
  You could also check out the newly refreshed Tofu60 2.0 and Tofu65 2.0 which are up for pre-order at KBDfans, as well as the Tiger Lite from KBDfans or Divinikey (somehow Divinikey sells it for cheaper)
  The QK80 from Qwertykeys and the Jris75 from MyKeyClub will be entering group buy soon and are an incredible value for what they offer. >
  
  What are the major differences between the keyboards mentioned and the keychron. >
  
  The Tofu60 2.0, Tofu65 2.0, QK80, and Jris75 are all keyboards with high end features/design at a low price. Can't go wrong with any of them. The Tiger Lite is an excellent low cost plastic TKL. It's just a Tiger 80 (which is on a similar level as the above boards) but with a plastic case.
  The QK80 and Jris75 have not yet entered GB, so they are not yet available in any capacity. The Tofu boards are up for pre-order. The Tiger Lite and Keychron boards are in-stock.
  The Keychron K Pro and Keychron V keyboards are not as high quality as the others and use inferior mounting methods, but offer an outstanding value with their lower prices.
  I'd have to write a book to describe the small details that differentiate each board, so I linked them all for you to investigate for yourself. >
  
  Thanks a lot for the info >
  
  Hey! I need some help for my first custom build.
  For switches I wanted something tactile, and I found Akko ocean blue switches on Amazon for relatively cheap. They seem to be well reviewed but I would like to listen to a second opinion.
  For the board and keycaps, I want something portable like a TKL or 75% layout, preferably with a removable cable. I don't really care about backlights and RGB, so anything will work. I'm not sure about what to choose though, I don't really know how to tell apart high quality and low quality materials. They absolutely can't be Bluetooth or programmable.
  My budget is about 120 dollars.
  Thanks in advance! >
  
  keychron v1 or v3 >
  
  I can't seem to find any of those keyboards that come without switches. Do you know where to get them? >
  
  Using Amazon for keyboard parts is usually not a good idea, there are numerous scams/non-genuine items for sale if you're not careful. 
  Ordering direct from Keychron or from one of Keychron's authorized retailers is recommended. You could also browse through the vendor list from Alexotos to get an idea of what legitimate vendors are available in your region. >
  
  Alright, thanks >
  
  The H key on my Epomaker TH80 is malfunctioning and sometimes registers two presses at once, if I press it hard enough it registers only one press, but that random double letter is driving me crazy, is there any way to fix this? >
  
  That's called key chatter and it's tied to the PCB. You can try swapping that one switch out otherwise exchange/return the keyboard. >
  
  Thank you for the answer and informing me of the proper term for it. I had tried re-inserting switches before, but this time I tilted the connections for the switch a little before inserting them (to try to make proper contact) and that seems to have fixed it. If it returns I'll contact Epomaker support. >
  
  HELP keyboard recommendations
  With exam season approaching i feel i can't hold back on buying a keyboard, even if it obliterates my pathetic budget.
  I would like:
  Mechanical switch - mainly typing, not much gaming 
  Not super loud switches 
  Wireless
  Preferably hotswap
  Num pad is essential 
  And UK ISO layout 
  I was hoping to spend about ~£60, but after 5 minutes of research, I think ~£100 would get something similar to what I'm looking for.
  Thank you in advance 👍 >
  
  The Keychron K4 comes in UK ISO and has everything you need.
  If you can live with an ANSI keyboard, the K4 Pro is a much better buy since its a new and improved K4 and you'll have greater compatibility with keycap sets plus full-programmability.
  Edit: added links >
  
  Any switches that feel like Rose Glaciers but are quieter? >
  
  Im looking to buy a mechanical keyboard, and I found a Corsair K70 and and a Coolermaster Masterkeys S used, they both cost 40 euros. 
  Im gravitating towards the Corsair K70, because its bigger and it would suit my needs more. But would the Coolermaster Masterkeys S feel that more better?
  Ive read on here that the Corsair K70 is shit and that everyone dislikes it, but Im not a mechanical keyboard fanboy so keep that in mind. 
  I dont care about the detachable cable, and the swappable keycaps on the Masterkeys S.
  Just asking if the Masterkeys S would feel any better than the Corsair K70? >
  
  I just bought a Tofu65 2.0…. I’ve been doing research for months and I’m at the point of madness where I needed to pull the trigger on something. Did I mess up? 
  What’s stabs would you recommend? >
  
  regular cherry stabs are fine >
  
  Thanks. Do you think ASA or SA  profile on a tofu65 would be uncomfortable? >
  
  There doesn't seem to be a flat and wired 75% keyboard on the market.
  So I'm wondering if I could just buy the RK ROYAL KLUDGE RK84 and switch to flat switches/keys?
  Any other suggestions? I'm willing to pay fair and square, I'm just not willing to toss out hundreds of $ for this. Unless it lasts me 10 years or more. But my last cherry mech lasted just 3 years before usb port weared out. >
  
  Get a Keychron Q1 or V1 and use DSA or XDA keycaps. DSA is the lowest profile keycap you can get and it's uniform so it'll be flat all around. It'll probably last you a heck of a lot longer than any Royal Kludge keyboard since those are on the lower end of the spectrum.
  Personally I'd go with a barebones V1 since you want to get your own keycaps anyway. >
  
  Building this cheapo government approved keyboard aka the anti-virus allows it on my computer. But it's very hollow and I'd like to fill th space between the top plate and pcb board.
  I tried using craft foam but the cuts aren't precise enough. 
  If I could get exact measurements of what I need, could someone print it or make a mold for me to purchase? >
  
  Have you tried cutting long strips of the foam and placing them horizontally so that the bottoms of the switches hold them in place? Worked pretty well for me to reduce hollowness. >
  
  Mhmmm didn't think of that. I'll try that next time I break it down >
  
  Hi, I recently bought an asus keyboard and they have a very bad program for recording and using macros, is there a good third-party program for macros? >
  
  Autohotkey
  But it can trip some anti-cheat programs. >
  
  Hey guys, I live in Dubai, UAE. I currently have an Anne Pro 2 with Blue Gateron switches. I find that these switches are so loud that my parents get annoyed, my friends who I play online with, randoms as well, I was wondering if there’s any store in Dubai or anyone in particular who knows how to de-solder key switches because I don’t really have the tools and knowledge to do it on my own. It would be really appreciated! >
  
  Desoldering lead free solder (te type used in mass market keyboards) is a real pain to remove.  Technically, you can use soldering iron and solder pump (preferably also a wick).  Plenty of Youtube videos on the technique.  Even better if you buy a desoldering gun, but for the cost, you could just buy a new Anne pro. >
  
  You can add new solder first and then desolder them if it has lead free solder >
  
  Outemu Brown vs Gateron Brown switches 
  My  friend has a RK71 (Gateron browns)which feels pretty tactile and light  (less force) as well , I have ordered a Redragon k582 Surara (Otemu  Browns)
  Is the feel very different , if yes , how (with aspect to force required , sound , etc)
  I'm very new to this and this will be my first mechanical keyboard >
  
  I can't say much to the Gat browns but the outemu Browns have a TON of stem wobble. Like 2.5x more than my Akko switches. 
  That's also after lubing and filming for case wobble, my akko matcha greens and silent haze pinks are 100x nicer feeling. 
  I think gat and outemu are both meant to be 50g tactiles. I doubt you would feel a force difference.
  The bump on the outemus is noticeable for sure. I liked the feel of them until I got nicer linears (because aforementioned wobble).
  I would love to try some nicer tactiles, personally. Pandas or even the akko lavenders are on my want to try list after seeing how good the linear greens are. >
  
  Eh, Gaterons have a lot of wobble too.  About the only real difference is that Gats will be bit smoother. >
  
  *
  Pipe key on a Dukharo VN66
  So I've got a lovely new VN66 but I can't get the pipe key to actually output a |, it just gives me a # or ~. I've actually remapped the page up to hash and tilde. I'm a software engineer and desperately need a pipe! Currently using the provided software (which actually is pretty good!) >
  
  Are there any gold/brass artisan keycaps in the $20 and under range? >
  
  there might be plastic ones paint those colors but the metal alone for a artisan will cost more than 20 bucks that not inlcuing the makers time and tools to cut and shape it >
  
  Heyo so I have been looking tirelessly for a 65% keyboard that has it all. The cooler master ck 720 is near perfect having all the features I want (knob, rgb pass through, incline so I don’t need to use feet, and small 65 form factor). The problem is the wrist rest option.
  I need a wrist rest on my keyboard because without one, it hurts overtime and with one, it makes the typing experience more comfortable. The problem is I adjust my keyboard constantly throughout the day so I want a magnetic one that can clip to my keyboard. The cooler master does not have that and from what I see online they are doing away with that trend. I have the huntsman elite and its so comfortable but it is wayy to big on my desk nowadays. I really want to find a 65 with a magnetic rest. Also was hoping for rgb to be all synced on one app but i doubt thats realistic with my razer mouse. Any thoughts on this? Ty >
  
  wrist rest dont normally come with kbs 99% of all keyboards made do not come with one its something u buy separate . only "gamer" brand s do that >
  
  Help.
  I recently bought new switches for my keyboard (Akko CS Jelly Black which replaced my Gateron Blues) and some keycaps are getting stuck when pressed. The ones that get stuck are f8 to f12 and left shift.
  The switches are working normally, because if I put other keycaps in the same place they don't get stuck. Also, if I put the keycaps upside down, they don't get stuck either.
  I switched back to my gateron blues and they also don't get stuck. All the keycaps on the top row look exactly the same so I have no idea what's wrong with them. I haven't noticed anything different.
  So I'm currently using my F8 to F12 (which are also number 8 to +/=, because it's a 60% keyboard) upside down and shift swapped with windows key.
  I tried searching for solutions but didn't find anything useful. >
  
  Have you tried putting f8 - f12 on other switches? 
  If that works you could just switch around the switches >
  
  Yes, I did. I spent an hour trying all 90 switches, on different locations and also by themselves. These specific keycaps get stuck on every single one of them. Unless the keycap is upside down. >
  
  I would return the keycaps :( >
  
  will cherry mount switches fit in a futaba plate?
  I just got an old datacomp DFK-777F the other day with futaba MA switches, unfortunately all of them feels pretty scratchy and none of them works except for a couple (the PCB works fine when shorted with a tweezer, the switches are just VERY worn out)
  So I'm planning to reswitch them with kailh box switches since finding new old stock futabas are pretty much impossible these days
  Does anyone here have any experience on reswitching futabas with Cherry mount switches?